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Also will the unplugged sensor mess up the air flow meter? Previously...when my SES light had turned on about 2 years ago, they told me the problem was my air flow meter and I paid a little over $300 to get it fixed. I don't want to have to pay another $300 for their possible mistake. It is not like they will admit it was a mistake...or they might say it is something else just to try to get more money. What shall I do?
I am not clear if they did look at the car the second time or not. If they did, it's possible that they just plugged the sensor back in without telling you, since this would be like admitting a very simple mistake. Open the hood and see if you can find it. Look at or around the airbox (the big plastic can where the air filter goes), and see if there are any unhooked harnesses.
The unplugged wire will not mess up the air flow meter, don't worry about that. Just as an FYI, if there's an AutoZone store where you live, they can get you the trouble codes for free. That way, nobody will try to replace your air flow sensor, when your gas cap is loose :-)
I did take my car back to the dealer the very next day after the new starter was installed...to try to see why the SES light turned on just hours after I got the new starter. They told me that I had to pay another $91 just to have my car checked again and that really upset me because I had just spent money on a new starter the day before. It was more upsetting to think that it was possibly their mistake that caused the SES light to turn on and that I would have to pay for it.
So I left the dealer fumming mad without having the SES light matter checked...thinking that I would get over it later and take my car to another dealer.
Because of the busy holiday I was not able to get my car to the dealer before my SES light turned off on its own. It was about 5 days after the new starter was installed, that the SES light came off. I do not know why it turned on in the first place and I am more baffled as to why it turned off on its own. I guess I am happy that it is off now but I cannot rest assure that everything is ok and that nothing is unhooked. Should I worry about this anymore?
I will check for loose harnesses as you suggested and go to my local AutoZone. My only worry is that whatever might be loose will cause another problem that will end up costing me more money. Thank you very much Phil you have been very informative...I appreciate it.
I take my car to a dealer only for recall stuff, I do maintenance with Nissan original parts ( except for oil/antifreeze) with my trusted mechanic.
Thanks
Hope someone can advise.
Problems:
1. Recurring check engine light. Seems to be known issue with the Maxima.
2. A/C blowing hot air. Initial compressor start blows cold air but subsequent compressor push blows hot air.
3. Speedometer stopped working after freon charge.
Questions:
For the 2001 Nissan Maxima SE auto, does anyone know which valve you recharge the freon from? I see the L and the H valve (H is by the radiator).
Also, does anyone know/can confirm if one of the wires which is part of a bunch of wires wrapped in tape located on the top left side of the engine and close to the L valve is the speedometer wire?
As my non-technical friend stated, he was trying to recharge the a/c with freon using the L valve (which did not fix his a/c blowing hot air problem) but then right after, the speedometer stopped going up past 40mph.
I looked under the hood and noticed a pinched wire, kinda straightened it out and then started the engine. The TCS off/slip light came on and couldn't be turned off. However, the speedo started working normally now (went up to 65mph). I assumed that the pinched wire was the problem, I repinched it again, restarted the engine and this time around the TSC off/ slip light came off. I just want to make sure that is the cause. If so, anyone know what needs to be replaced and around how much?
As far as the A/C, told him to have a shop properly evacuate, test for leaks and then recharge the freon.
Thanks!
Don't know about the speedometer wire.
Thanks!
a stalling problem.I found broken wires at the
idle valve fixed those the stalling got better
now stalls intermitantly.Took to dealer and they
had 2 maximas and 1 altima with the same problem
The mechanic was talking to Nissan tech line about the problems and came up with the electronic motor mount shorted out the E.C.U.
It burned out the idle circuit driver. A $900.00
E.C.U.repair.But I haven't picked up the car yet.
Supposed to be fixed tomorrow 7/26/07.Will update
Thursday night. Hope this will help.
After an extensive diagnosis, the Nissan dealer service rep said that the problem is that my main electrical harness had been cut and that my ECM needed to be replaced. Now prior to this current problem, my car was running fine.
So I'm thinking that one of the mechanics previous to the dealer cut the harness because my car probably would not run with the cut harness, right? Anyhow, I need to know my options because my dealer said that the ECM unit is $880 and the harness is $1,800, plus another few senors and with labor, my total cost would be $3,900, which I definately don't have.
What options do I have? Can I buy the ECM and harness somewhere else and have an Electrical mechanic put it in? Is this a difficult job to do? Please Help! :confuse: Any advice would be so appreciated! By the way, for reference, I live in Temple City, CA. Thanks so much for your help!!!
any help?
Also I heard stories of damage to an engine after oil flush. Should I risk it?
Anyway, is it possible for improperly applied brake pads/shoes to cause friction that would cause a short? Within the last 6 months or so, I've had to replace the fuse for my tail and "marker lights" almost once a month - sometimes twice. It doesn't affect my brake lights, signal lights or my front headlights. I've had to take it to a dealer a few times - one said the fuse had blown, one said there was a short, took it back to the first one and I was asked to try and isolate when the lights go out. I remember that this didn't start until after I got my front brakes done, then the two times that I noticed it went out recently - once was after I started the car and I heard a slight grinding and the second time I was listening to a CD and the CD went out - and so did the lights. Any suggestions other than keeping a stock of fuses in my car just in case??
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
We love the car and want to keep it in good shape for our oldest child in a couple years. Any info would be much appreciated.
It's definitely not wind noise. I have Eagle RS-A's on the car, are these considered "noisy" tires? I don't think it's that either because I've had this brand of tire on the car since we replaced the factory tires. I also don't think it's a problem that could easily be seen visually since we had it at a dealer recently for the full 120,000 maintenance. I'll probably end up taking it to a shop and have them take it out on the highway. Thanks again for your reply.
My husband is wondering if it is the shock assembly.
I have a 93' nissan maxima as well.
This morning I even could'nt start it. Last night I have poured a liquid to clean the injector/carburator but this morning even the starter engine is working I couldn't start the engine.
Pls let me know if u learn what the problem might be.
1. Engine Stall or Die at Red light or Stop
Ans:
1. You need to replace your Mass Airflow Sensor, or
2. You need to clean your Mass Airflow Sensor.
3. Please try to replace your Air Filter as recommend by the manufacture.
4. Please do not use any Fuel Injector clean, because it might cause to start the car when the Engine is Cold or in the morning.
You can buy the cleaner at the Advance Auto Part. Please ask for the MAF cleaner. Please do not use any other cleaner because it might damage your MAF.
This is for your information only. I am not responsible for post. I just want to share because it can save your money for useless sensor that you do not need to replace in the first place.
Good Luck
Sounds like you have a dirty Mass Airflow Sensor. You need to clean the MAF at once. You can pick up the Mass Airflow Sensor at the Auto Part. If you live near Advance Auto Part or Part of America, then go to store to pick up. Remember to ask for the Mass Airflow Cleaner!!!! The brand is CRC Mass Airflow Cleaner. Since you are at the store, please also pick up the Air Filter. Now on, if you replace your Air Filter, please clean your MAF as well. The computer is base the information on the MAF to inject gas to your engine.
Good Luck
Rubbing compound is usually too harsh for clear coat paints - used more for removing oxidation, and will also remove paint. It's abrasive. Polish is safer and won't hurt the finish. Just make sure whatever you try (if you haven't already) is safe for clearcoat and you'll be fine.
1. Hard to cold start -
Suggestion: Don't add too much fuel injector to your gas tank. It makes the problem even worth.
2. If your car STALL or DIE at stop light etc.
Suggestion:
a. Clean your Mass Airflow Sensor with MAF cleaner first.
b. Trust me, I have been using the Multimeter to check for voltage while the car is running. It should reads between 1 and 1.7. Even though, it pass!!!. It still might be a problem. I had to replace mine. It costs me $224 at Advance Auto Part ONLINE.
Good Luck
GO USA
Any help would be appreciated!
cheers,
mfh08
aka : frustrated!
Thanks
Xianli
any ideas as to why i cant go into park?
also, my key just now got stuck in the ignition, came out earlier today when i had the car in neutral.
little background, on most mornings i have to "wiggle" the gear lever otherwise the car wont start, I'm guessing this is because the transmission doesn't engage "park" or something, I'm no mechanic. But most days a little wiggle will start up the car. I'm sure this has something to do with my current problems
my engine: VG30E, little over 100k miles
tranny: RE4F02A (at least google says it is)