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issue of hardness and/or runout on the discs. Apparently, Nissan Maximas
may have some suspect rotors out there.
-2k1 SE black/black cloth
-$22,400
Personally, I think that a hood deflector not only prevents chips right in front, but also minimizes chipping farther up the hood.
please email me at jbuco@hotmail.com
don't get to check this board often
thank you in advance:)
I don't have any waxing tips for you, but I do
recall that you were once having starting problems with your Max. Is that still happening? I also have a sterling mist 2001 (GXE) and live in New York. If you want to compare notes without tying up this board, write me at lucy1213@excite.com.
Paste waxes with durability additives like Collinite, and 3M Paste wax with ASE. Use glaze like Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze, or 3M Imperial Hand Glaze as a prep coat. Use a soft foam pad if applied by machine like Meguiars. A harder foam pad with a terry cloth bonnet will have a slight tendency to produce swirl marks. These waxes are very forgiving. Easy to apply and give incredible depth to the shine if directions are followed.
I recently put 3M Perfect-It Show Car wax after applying a coat of glaze and it truly lives up to it's name. I felt like Erkle (Did I do that??) I found that it applied equally well by machine, or by hand. It looks as good as a Natural Carnauba. I will be putting on another coat in a couple of weeks. I like the extra layer of protection. IT is supposed to last at least 6 months.
The second type are the acrylic polymers (the actual names vary widely). The most common high quality types on forums I've seen are Liquid Glass, Klasse, and Zaino. Less expensive ones are TR3, TR5, and Nufinish. I have tried these and while they looked pretty good and seemed fairly durable, then didn't match the 3M or Meguiar's Hard Yellow #26 finish.
Polymers are more durable, but often don't have the depth of shine. I've consistently read that they don't fill in scratches as well as natural waxes. (3M filled in scratches very well on my 11 year old car.) I understand that Klasse is the exception to this. Zaino frankly is too expensive and complicated to use. It can be unforgiving.
Hope this helps sort out a complicated issue.
There is a Townhall forum about waxes, and another solely for Zaino. Check them out and make your own decision
By the way I haven't waxed a car previously; this will be my first time, so I am a little cautious.
I will keep you informed if I start experiencing it. I only have 900 miles right now, so maybe it is too soon.
Obi
I had a friend who used Klasse, purchased from klassedirect.com. You can buy a quart for only about 8 dollars more than a pint. He likes it. properautocare.com has some instructions for easy application. But his car is a hunter green.
My issued with both ZAINO and Klasse is whether they can be properly removed once applied, and whether they will yellow. I know that 3M, Collinite, and Meguiar's #26 can be removed with a glaze, and a completely fresh layer applied.
Here is more information on the product:::::::::
http://www.liqui-tech.com
http://www.finishfirstpolish.com
I have noticed weird rattle noisy from hood when I drove under 15 MPH. It just happened few days ago, and I couldn't duplicate same problem at dealer. I only have 46K miles on my 97. I don't think this noise is from suspension.
Also, I get all sort of feedback from gas pedal. For example, I can feel gas pedal shake long enough to feel shifting gears on auto-tranny. Also, higher RPM it goes, more shakes/feedback I am getting. Is this normal? I never got any feedback from my pedal on my 240SX.
But I have to say I'm getting a little worried by the number of horror stories of people having sensors/wiring harnesses etc.. go bad with rather costly repairs, even on rather new and well-maintained vehicles. There don't seem to be nearly as many maintenance & repair posts from other cars I considered getting. All reports I've read have given two thumbs up for reliability though. I guess I'm wondering now if I should I buy this maxima? the current owner just had all 3 O2 sensors replaced (but with the cheapo nissan ones). any advice? i.e. are there just a lot of lemons and overall the reliability is good?
rcman
Does dealer sell socket and wire separate or I HAVE TO replace whole wiring system?
Thanks in advance.
- Jackson
Thanks
Semper Fi
We are not alone. Other people have complained about this too. If I remember correctly there's a TSB on this. My trunk isn't rusting though. It appears you need to get your trunk repaired asap.
ANYONE OUT THERE HAVE THEIR MAXIMA REAR BUMPER REPAIRED ? LET CW AND ME KNOW. Thanks
Where can I find out about TSB's ? Also,Is your Max a 5spd? Mine is and it is about the worst stick I've ever owned! It chatters and is just plain jumpy. I cant seem to drive this car smoothly while going at normal speeds. The only way I can go from gear to gear without any "lag" is if I max out revs and rip through the gears! Thanks for any info!.....Chris
I wouldn't buy any used car with that many miles without an independent inspection, but chances are it will be a good purchase. As for price, you'll have to look around and see what others are asking for similar cars in your area. (Of course don't take so long to look around that you lose the deal!) Good luck.
Do you know when the car was actually sold to the first owner? Date of manufacture would be on the metal tag inside the driver's side door sill. Assuming it was exactly six years ago, the driver put on around 15,000 miles a year. If it was bought in late '94 when the 95's first came out, then it's closer to 13k a year. Either way, sounds like the current owner was not putting on an excessive amount of mileage for the car's age.
First, the driver side window squeals in the track as it is powered up and down. There is obvious black marks along the edge of the window.
Next, the passenger side window motor sounds as if it is struggling to get the window up. It takes a two to three more seconds to raise than the driver side window.
Thirdly, the air guard for the sunroof is cracked in numerous places.
And finally, (BIG ONE), there is a loud rubbing sound that comes from the rear driver side wheel area when the car turns or otherwise requires shock movement. I hear this mostly at low speeds, but it could be happening at high speeds also.
Thanks for your help.
I vaguely recall someone posting, months ago (don't recall what forum), something about chocks put on the wheels for shipping that weren't taken off prior to delivery like they should have been. You might have that problem, or you might have some serious problem with alignment causing the wheel to rub. Have you looked at the tires, is there any sign of uneven wear? Really, don't fool around with anything so potentially dangerous as that, get the dealer to look at it immediately.
Call your dealership & get them to do this for you.
I don't have any problem with the windows squeaking, though.
Then again, the 02 has auto up and auto down drive and passenger windows. I don't think the 01's had that. Did they?
Took it to a mechanic that tested all the fuel pressures, electrical, and hooked to computer that only got a "Not Communicating" error. Then the stalls stopped and he couldn't reproduce the problem. Had him do a major tune-up (... it was almost due anyway)and drove off.
The mechanic stated that the last time he saw this error message and behavior (while he worked at a Nissan dealership), it was the ignition coils. Since the 92+ versions have 6 coils (one on each spark plug), it's a $600 event to get all changed out.
Anyone had this happen? I notice some other messages about stalling, but no "final" solutions.
I will keep updating my feedbacks from my 2002 SE, hopefully will be good ones.
And change the oil at 1,000.
I think the manual might have some more suggestions, but the above is pretty basic for any new car.