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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • dezz1dezz1 Member Posts: 5
    Why would they tell me the starter has nothing to do with the SES light? That is upsetting. Should I go back to the dealer since you think it is possible that they forgot to plug back the sensors? The SES light turned off on its own. How do I know/check if the sensor plug has been rehooked?

    Also will the unplugged sensor mess up the air flow meter? Previously...when my SES light had turned on about 2 years ago, they told me the problem was my air flow meter and I paid a little over $300 to get it fixed. I don't want to have to pay another $300 for their possible mistake. It is not like they will admit it was a mistake...or they might say it is something else just to try to get more money. What shall I do?
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    If all is done right, the two don't have anything in common. A malfunction of the starter will not turn on the SES light. However, if they made a mistake during re-assembly of the airbox, and forgot to plug in the sensor, then the light would come on.

    I am not clear if they did look at the car the second time or not. If they did, it's possible that they just plugged the sensor back in without telling you, since this would be like admitting a very simple mistake. Open the hood and see if you can find it. Look at or around the airbox (the big plastic can where the air filter goes), and see if there are any unhooked harnesses.

    The unplugged wire will not mess up the air flow meter, don't worry about that. Just as an FYI, if there's an AutoZone store where you live, they can get you the trouble codes for free. That way, nobody will try to replace your air flow sensor, when your gas cap is loose :-)
  • dezz1dezz1 Member Posts: 5
    No my car has not been checked again since I had the starter replaced (or since the SES light came on and off).

    I did take my car back to the dealer the very next day after the new starter was installed...to try to see why the SES light turned on just hours after I got the new starter. They told me that I had to pay another $91 just to have my car checked again and that really upset me because I had just spent money on a new starter the day before. It was more upsetting to think that it was possibly their mistake that caused the SES light to turn on and that I would have to pay for it.

    So I left the dealer fumming mad without having the SES light matter checked...thinking that I would get over it later and take my car to another dealer.

    Because of the busy holiday I was not able to get my car to the dealer before my SES light turned off on its own. It was about 5 days after the new starter was installed, that the SES light came off. I do not know why it turned on in the first place and I am more baffled as to why it turned off on its own. I guess I am happy that it is off now but I cannot rest assure that everything is ok and that nothing is unhooked. Should I worry about this anymore?

    I will check for loose harnesses as you suggested and go to my local AutoZone. My only worry is that whatever might be loose will cause another problem that will end up costing me more money. Thank you very much Phil you have been very informative...I appreciate it.
  • heart2heart2 Member Posts: 38
    On rere occassions my 2K cranks and cranks and in order to get it started I have to hold gas pedal to floor and it will catch and I see a good puff of smoke out the exhaust. Happens when engine cold. Told to put in a bottle of Lucas fuel additive for injectors. Car really is well maintained but just does local driving. Anyone else have this problem or other ideas; otherwise drives very well.
  • rafarafa Member Posts: 35
    we have a 2005 nissan maxima se with 19450 miles on it that we bought brand new on may 2005 well when it gets cold here in colorado the left side front side of the axle makes this loud noise like a thump when you go thru a bump we still have bumper to bumper warranty til 5 2008 if any body can help us let us know thank you
  • alexstorealexstore Member Posts: 264
    instead on guessing, why don't you take it to a dealership and have them worry about it. This part should be covered. BTW if they refuse to fix it under warranty , ask them to provide it in writing. If you don't trust them, do it like I do, take it to a trusted mechanic and they will lift your car and see what the problem is. Nissan Is known to have issues with struts that fail quickly.
    I take my car to a dealer only for recall stuff, I do maintenance with Nissan original parts ( except for oil/antifreeze) with my trusted mechanic.
  • jfranojfrano Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2001 Maxima SE, I'm being told that the ECU has to be changed and then the keys will have to be reprogrammed...is that true??

    Thanks
  • kagedudekagedude Member Posts: 407
    Hi,

    Hope someone can advise.

    Problems:
    1. Recurring check engine light. Seems to be known issue with the Maxima.
    2. A/C blowing hot air. Initial compressor start blows cold air but subsequent compressor push blows hot air.
    3. Speedometer stopped working after freon charge.

    Questions:
    For the 2001 Nissan Maxima SE auto, does anyone know which valve you recharge the freon from? I see the L and the H valve (H is by the radiator).

    Also, does anyone know/can confirm if one of the wires which is part of a bunch of wires wrapped in tape located on the top left side of the engine and close to the L valve is the speedometer wire?

    As my non-technical friend stated, he was trying to recharge the a/c with freon using the L valve (which did not fix his a/c blowing hot air problem) but then right after, the speedometer stopped going up past 40mph.

    I looked under the hood and noticed a pinched wire, kinda straightened it out and then started the engine. The TCS off/slip light came on and couldn't be turned off. However, the speedo started working normally now (went up to 65mph). I assumed that the pinched wire was the problem, I repinched it again, restarted the engine and this time around the TSC off/ slip light came off. I just want to make sure that is the cause. If so, anyone know what needs to be replaced and around how much?

    As far as the A/C, told him to have a shop properly evacuate, test for leaks and then recharge the freon.

    Thanks!
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    'L' is for 'low pressure', that's where you recharge. But you need to have gauges, otherwise you will overcharge. The system has a pressure switch, if the pressure is too high or too low, the clutch won't engage, and the a/c won't work.

    Don't know about the speedometer wire.
  • kagedudekagedude Member Posts: 407
    Regarding the A/C issue, my friend stated that they found a bad wire with the A/C and once replaced, it started blowing cold air again. Can't really confirm exactly which piece was replaced.

    Thanks!
  • jimmyt4jimmyt4 Member Posts: 4
    Hello,I've been working on a "97" maxima for
    a stalling problem.I found broken wires at the
    idle valve fixed those the stalling got better
    now stalls intermitantly.Took to dealer and they
    had 2 maximas and 1 altima with the same problem
    The mechanic was talking to Nissan tech line about the problems and came up with the electronic motor mount shorted out the E.C.U.
    It burned out the idle circuit driver. A $900.00
    E.C.U.repair.But I haven't picked up the car yet.
    Supposed to be fixed tomorrow 7/26/07.Will update
    Thursday night. Hope this will help.
  • ammorrossaammorrossa Member Posts: 3
    Hi, I need help and advice. My Maxima would not start suddenly about a week ago so I had it towed to a local mechanic. That mechanic couldn't figue it out so I had it towed to another mechanic, and finally I had it towed to the dealer. :sick:

    After an extensive diagnosis, the Nissan dealer service rep said that the problem is that my main electrical harness had been cut and that my ECM needed to be replaced. Now prior to this current problem, my car was running fine. :D

    So I'm thinking that one of the mechanics previous to the dealer cut the harness because my car probably would not run with the cut harness, right? Anyhow, I need to know my options because my dealer said that the ECM unit is $880 and the harness is $1,800, plus another few senors and with labor, my total cost would be $3,900, which I definately don't have. :(

    What options do I have? Can I buy the ECM and harness somewhere else and have an Electrical mechanic put it in? Is this a difficult job to do? Please Help! :confuse: Any advice would be so appreciated! By the way, for reference, I live in Temple City, CA. Thanks so much for your help!!! :blush:
  • maximaman1maximaman1 Member Posts: 1
    one of my belts broke and i took it to midas and they said that my crankshaft pulley was broken as well. they couldnt fix it how big of a job and how much will it cost
    any help?
  • lisa2519lisa2519 Member Posts: 2
    i baught a 1990 maxima and have had issues with it from day one first the ignition waqs locking then my speakers didnt work then it would not start at random,the alarm would go off at random too...now its just sitting in my driveway dead.I know its the anti theft system but i dont know how to bypass it can you please please help me
  • lisa2519lisa2519 Member Posts: 2
    i have a old used car and it didnt come with the keyless entry code how can i reset this so i can use it
  • alexstorealexstore Member Posts: 264
    I have 48K miles on my car and have been using regular Castrol oil for my car doing normal maintenance. I saw Mobil 1 synthetic on sale and bought one for my car. Now, Should I flush old oil and add synthetic. Do a simple flash and replace with synthetic? Since I replace oil every 3750 miles is there advantage of synthetic over regular?
    Also I heard stories of damage to an engine after oil flush. Should I risk it?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You don't have to flush anything, you're fine. Just switch and extend your oil changes to at least 5,000 miles, or more if you are comfortable.
  • n773n773 Member Posts: 1
    My beautiful baby is having problems...bought it used at the end of '05, has little over 40K now.

    Anyway, is it possible for improperly applied brake pads/shoes to cause friction that would cause a short? Within the last 6 months or so, I've had to replace the fuse for my tail and "marker lights" almost once a month - sometimes twice. It doesn't affect my brake lights, signal lights or my front headlights. I've had to take it to a dealer a few times - one said the fuse had blown, one said there was a short, took it back to the first one and I was asked to try and isolate when the lights go out. I remember that this didn't start until after I got my front brakes done, then the two times that I noticed it went out recently - once was after I started the car and I heard a slight grinding and the second time I was listening to a CD and the CD went out - and so did the lights. Any suggestions other than keeping a stock of fuses in my car just in case?? :)
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Member Posts: 536
    Just got an oil change at Nissan and the tech said my REAR brake pads may need replacing soon. I thought Front brake pads wore out first on all FWD vehicles. No other brake problems to date (5 year old Maxima; original owner). Any ideas out there?
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    On my '01 I had to replace the rear brake pads first, also at 5 years, with 60,000 miles. Replaced the front ones a year later at 75,000 miles. Don't know why the rear ones go first, but I'm not complaining. What a great car!
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • jrayburnjrayburn Member Posts: 1
    about a week ago i bought a 95 SE Maxima, the car had 115k on it and right after i bought it ive started having weird problems, sometimes at night when im driving the dashlights along with the headlights will suddenly brighten up to the brightness they are actually supposed to be, along with that sometimes the power windows wont work, and most of the time it will be one at a time, only once was it all four, and that one time it happend the air cond. and the moonroof all stopped working until i turned the car off then back on again and it worked again, and sometimes it will go a few days w/o doin it then suddenly start acting up again ne body have any suggest.?
  • jhildrewjhildrew Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 SE manual with 27k. Just learned that the right rear caliper could be failing causing the inside pad to wear to 20% whereas the other side is at 60%. Did you have this issue? Also, I have a cracked flexibile downpipe and an exhaust bracket that needed to be re-welded. Dealer told me I needed to replace both rear calipers if I replace one of them. Plus rotors. Sounds very strange and I'm not too impressed with the quality of the parts.
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Member Posts: 536
    27k is very low mileage! This was my first indication of brake wear when the oil change tech at my dealer mentuioned the wear. I questioned him about the rear wearing out first and he said sometimes it happens (but i wasn't convinced). i have stopped using the parking brake on level ground as that may be a contributor. Are you aware of rockauto.com for replacement parts? Calipers and rotors can get expensive. Let me know how it turns out...
  • smith_gwsmith_gw Member Posts: 7
    I have a 1998 Maxima SE with 133,xxx miles that is still running great. Have replaced an O2 sensor and had a 120,000 mile maintenance done in the last couple months. This was mainly my car driving 50-60 mainly highway miles a day to work and back. My wife started driving it and although I thought the interior road noise was increasing, she says it's almost deafening. After driving our new Avalon, I am starting to agree with her. Is this just something we can expect from a 10+ year old car due to weakening seals/insulation or is there something we can do about it.
    We love the car and want to keep it in good shape for our oldest child in a couple years. Any info would be much appreciated.
  • gotoyotagotoyota Member Posts: 280
    Hi, I have a 1997 Maxima GXE 5 speed, with 197k on it. I love it - it's my second Maxima (other one was a 1993 SE 5 speed) and it still runs like a champ, but recently the power has dropped noticeably. Mileage continues to be great - I average about 30 mpg with mostly highway driving. But it feels sluggish off the line and the power delivery is very non-linear lately, like the engine computer is managing output down... I do have a code for a bad knock sensor, which I suspect could be the reason for the sluggishness, but I also get a P1404 code... and I have no idea what that means. A while back I got a code for a faulty ground on the MAF sensor, but that code wasn't present the last time I got it scanned. Hey, it's an old car with a lot of miles, and still gets me to work and back, right? So I didn't worry about fixing it when the light first came on, but now the tags are due and I need to fix it. I've got a knock sensor on order, but I would like to know if anyone here knows what the P1404 code means. Thanks!
  • gotoyotagotoyota Member Posts: 280
    What type of noise do you hear? Gen 4 Maxima's are not the quietest cars made, and I definately wouldn't expect it to be as quiet as the Avalon, but it shouldn't be deafening. If it's a thrumming noise, it could be a bad bearing. If it sounds like road noise, you might look into wheel alignment, abnormal tire wear, or even just replace the tires with some quieter ones. If the seals are worn out you will hear a lot of wind noise around the doors, but the seals can be replaced. If you can be more specific about the type of noise you are hearing it would help to determine if it's normal or not.
  • smith_gwsmith_gw Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the reple. My wife is describing it as deafening, I would just say it's loud. I think it's road noise since it gets louder the faster I drive. This morning driving in, I even thought of checking the wheel wells to see if there are any gaps/holes/other that may be causing some of the noise to leak into the interior of the car as it does sound like a combination of the tires moving on the road and the running of the engine.

    It's definitely not wind noise. I have Eagle RS-A's on the car, are these considered "noisy" tires? I don't think it's that either because I've had this brand of tire on the car since we replaced the factory tires. I also don't think it's a problem that could easily be seen visually since we had it at a dealer recently for the full 120,000 maintenance. I'll probably end up taking it to a shop and have them take it out on the highway. Thanks again for your reply.
  • mrmacksimamrmacksima Member Posts: 6
    i purchased this maxima in july 2007. when it got within about 500 miles of the first oil change, the engine started making this tapping noise. the tapping noise only happens at about 2 rpms. the check engine light came on and soon after the oil light came on. when i took it in, the shop stated that there was hardly enough oil in the engine to register on the dipstick. I went ahead and had the oil changed and took it back to the dealer ship for the check engine light issue, which they said was because my o2 sensors were going bad. With fresh oil and new o2 sensors everything was fine. Now, once again, I am about 400 miles from my next oil change and the engine is starting to make the tapping noise again and my service engine light has come on. At first i figured well maybe there is an oil leak, which is why the noise is happening. By the time i get to the oil change, maybe there is a slow leak and after 3000 miles the levels are low. However, i have not nocitced any puddles or stains where i park overnight or even at work. the had approx 57,000 miles on it when purchased and is approaching 63,000 at this point. I am concerned as i hope this is not a serious problem to correct as this is a new purchase for me. the car is certified and has the balance of 100,000 mile waranty for engine, trans, and parts that touch lubrication. i am taking it in to the dealer, but i want to know what i am in for. they were very difficult to deal with when i had the issue with my o2 sensors and i just need some advice. :mad:
  • gotoyotagotoyota Member Posts: 280
    Well, I'm not a mechanic, but the problem you are describing reminds me of a problem I had with a 98 Pontiac Montana. It kept losing oil, but there were no oil spots and there was no exhaust cloud to explain the loss. Yet every few hundred miles, the oil light would come on and sure enough, it was about a quart low. It turned out to be the rear main seal. Since it is certified, I would definately take it in and use the warranty. The VQ is normally a very solid powerplant - there has to be something going on. I don't think an O2 sensor will cause the problem you are having - O2 sensors are tied to the emissions controls system. What you have sounds more mechanical to me.
  • gotoyotagotoyota Member Posts: 280
    I don't know about the RSA's, but if there is an alignment problem, it could make the tires noisy as a result of uneven wear. I would check that out first. I think Maxima's have sealed bearings, but they could still wear out, so that's another possibility.
  • cmnofsingercmnofsinger Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95' nissan maxima with 186k miles on it. I am having a problem with it starting and some surges. It surges when I slow down or get to a stop light and then cuts off. I have gotton a tune up and the mechanic doesn't know whats wrong. I am a struggling college student that doesn't have enough money to guess and check different solutions. If anyone can help at all, it will be much appreciated. thanks
  • mrmacksimamrmacksima Member Posts: 6
    It seems there is no end to my pain. I scraped the rear of my car on the house this am. I have a white paint scrape from the house on my right rear Qp. Any suggestions on how to get it off?? its not down to the metal, and I was able to get some off by scraping with my fingernail, so its not that deep. :mad:
  • gotoyotagotoyota Member Posts: 280
    If you can scrape some of it off with your nail then you should be able to use a clearcoat safe polish (do not confuse with rubbing compound!) to remove of the paint that transferred from house to car, and probably remove some of the superficial scratches. It won't help if it's down to the primer or metal, obviously, but it should make it look better. Let us know how it turns out.
  • mrmacksimamrmacksima Member Posts: 6
    Why not rubbing compound, that was going to be my first course of action. also, my other problem turned out to be a valve cover....
  • sherriegsherrieg Member Posts: 4
    My 1996 Maxim SE has a rattle in the right front. It only makes this noise when I hit big bumps. Any idea what this might be?
    My husband is wondering if it is the shock assembly.
  • ossolemioossolemio Member Posts: 1
    The problem u have is same as mine.
    I have a 93' nissan maxima as well.
    This morning I even could'nt start it. Last night I have poured a liquid to clean the injector/carburator but this morning even the starter engine is working I couldn't start the engine.
    Pls let me know if u learn what the problem might be.
  • gotoyotagotoyota Member Posts: 280
    Have you had the coils checked? It kind of sounds like a bad ignition coil/coils, or it could be an issue with the MAF sensor. Do you have a check eng light on? Unfortunately, it's not an easy engine to diagnose problems with, so unless you have a buddy who knows Maxima's you're probably going to have to pay some cash. My local dealer charges $50.00 to put it on the scanner, but mine is OBDII. Your 95 probably isn't (a few 95 cars were, but don't think the Maxima was one of them...) so not sure what the charge would be for pre-OBDII. Let me know what you find out. If you can get it fixed, the powerplant should give you plenty of life, at least get you through college.
  • go_usago_usa Member Posts: 3
    For You Information Only......

    1. Engine Stall or Die at Red light or Stop
    Ans:

    1. You need to replace your Mass Airflow Sensor, or
    2. You need to clean your Mass Airflow Sensor.
    3. Please try to replace your Air Filter as recommend by the manufacture.
    4. Please do not use any Fuel Injector clean, because it might cause to start the car when the Engine is Cold or in the morning.

    You can buy the cleaner at the Advance Auto Part. Please ask for the MAF cleaner. Please do not use any other cleaner because it might damage your MAF.

    This is for your information only. I am not responsible for post. I just want to share because it can save your money for useless sensor that you do not need to replace in the first place.

    Good Luck
  • go_usago_usa Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    Sounds like you have a dirty Mass Airflow Sensor. You need to clean the MAF at once. You can pick up the Mass Airflow Sensor at the Auto Part. If you live near Advance Auto Part or Part of America, then go to store to pick up. Remember to ask for the Mass Airflow Cleaner!!!! The brand is CRC Mass Airflow Cleaner. Since you are at the store, please also pick up the Air Filter. Now on, if you replace your Air Filter, please clean your MAF as well. The computer is base the information on the MAF to inject gas to your engine.
    Good Luck
  • jseidjseid Member Posts: 2
    Did you get any resolution to your "hesitates/runs rough" problem? I have a 2000 Maxima with the same problem. Only gives me trouble in the morning and after work after it sits all day. My mechanic said to replace the spark plug coils?? I'm at 70K miles now.
  • jseidjseid Member Posts: 2
    Did you get any resolution to your clutch problem? I have a 2000 Maxima with the same problem.
  • smith_gwsmith_gw Member Posts: 7
    Thought I would follow up in case anyone else was experiencing a similar issue. We did have a bad front right wheel bearing. We had been driving on it for a while so thank goodness there was no additional damage. The repair cost $273.00.
  • gotoyotagotoyota Member Posts: 280
    Why not rubbing compound

    Rubbing compound is usually too harsh for clear coat paints - used more for removing oxidation, and will also remove paint. It's abrasive. Polish is safer and won't hurt the finish. Just make sure whatever you try (if you haven't already) is safe for clearcoat and you'll be fine.
  • chiifacchiifac Member Posts: 2
    I think I have a very similar noise problem like you described for my 1995 Maxima SE with 117K miles. I have put in a set of 4 new tires and replaced the two front struts. Still the car is quite noisy. Is your car much quieter now? Was the repair job done at the dealer? Thanks in advance for your help.
  • go_usago_usa Member Posts: 3
    First, Fuel Injector cleaner is not the best solution for old car like 1995 or older. Actually, it makes even harder for you to start the car. I found out the hard way. Now, you either have to empty your tank or have to drive to empty the sooner the better.

    1. Hard to cold start -
    Suggestion: Don't add too much fuel injector to your gas tank. It makes the problem even worth.

    2. If your car STALL or DIE at stop light etc.
    Suggestion:
    a. Clean your Mass Airflow Sensor with MAF cleaner first.
    b. Trust me, I have been using the Multimeter to check for voltage while the car is running. It should reads between 1 and 1.7. Even though, it pass!!!. It still might be a problem. I had to replace mine. It costs me $224 at Advance Auto Part ONLINE.

    Good Luck
    GO USA
  • refuse2bstopperefuse2bstoppe Member Posts: 1
    I actually put in the fuel injector cleaner and had stall problems when my engine was cold and also when it sat over night anytime after sitting about 5 or more hours. Also I just ended up changing my Mass Air Flow Sensor. And am now told the revolution sensor is bad. (what ever that is) And they said after they fix that I have to hope my Transmission control module (TCM) isn't gone bad and my Cylinoid because it will cost me $845.00 and $654.00 (WOOOOOWWW!!!!!!) I just bought the car in January and had to put my wife in a brand new car 2 weeks ago because the transmission died in her 2000 hoinda accord. It was a lemon it turns out. My car is a 2000 nissan maxima SL. I'm floored from hearing the news. But I'll just hope as they say that it may just be the revolution sensor which is $272.00. I just spent about $350.00 between diagnosis and repair for the mass air flow. So this will put me at about $622.00 and then you add another $1500.00 for what they say could potentially need repairs, and it becomes pretty tempting to just trade my car at that point and use that kind of money in case I need a down payment. But I love the car enought to just bite the bullet. Anyone no where to find a Cylinoid and transmission control moduele (TCM) for a decent price? (Just in case)
  • mfh08mfh08 Member Posts: 1
    I have replaced the bulb to no avail. low and high beams work on both headlights yet the regular daytime light only works on the passenger side healight. Lh or driver side headlight is off. I swapped the bulbs and the bulb works. I looked for blown fuses under the hood - nothing. Is there a relay controling only the left headlight daytime light?

    Any help would be appreciated!

    cheers,

    mfh08

    aka : frustrated!
  • rbell90rbell90 Member Posts: 1
    My wife Maxima GXE is having the same problem, did you find out what you problem was?
  • xianlixianli Member Posts: 1
    I have this weir Drive position of clutch problem about 2 weeks ago. After I started my car, back from the parking lot, and shift from the Reverse to Drive position, the car does not creep forward. I have to move to 2 or 1 position and then back to Drive position, it works like normal. The clutch does feel loose when move from the Park or Reverse position to Drive positive. It seems that the transmission is ok. It drives me crazy, and do not know where to go. Does anybody have this similiar problem?

    Thanks

    Xianli
  • pengwinpengwin Member Posts: 74
    Hi, my 1994 maxima GXE wont go into park anymore. I was out driving it today and i pulled into a parking spot then i tried putting it into park and the button on the gear lever wouldn't go in(goes in half way and stops). Currently i have the car in the garage in neutral with the e brake on.

    any ideas as to why i cant go into park?

    also, my key just now got stuck in the ignition, came out earlier today when i had the car in neutral.

    little background, on most mornings i have to "wiggle" the gear lever otherwise the car wont start, I'm guessing this is because the transmission doesn't engage "park" or something, I'm no mechanic. But most days a little wiggle will start up the car. I'm sure this has something to do with my current problems

    my engine: VG30E, little over 100k miles
    tranny: RE4F02A (at least google says it is)
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