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Comments
Most manufacturers, however, build their cars to report much more than ODB II requires. This extra data is proprietary (in other words - not easily accessible) and most of the time, can be read by the manufacturer built scanner.
As such, I would suggest taking your car to a dealer for the diagnostics, explaining in detail what you are experiencing. Do not give them any authorizations to go beyond diagnosing - tell them to tell you exactly what's wrong first. Once they tell you, ask them for a detailed explanation how their discovery relates to your experiences.
Once you got this explanation, you can usually forward the info to your trusted mechanic, who can perform the repairs for the fraction of the cost.
I had few electrical (engine, sensors) issues with my Maxima, and my mechanic could not figure out what they were. The dealer, for $70-100, did the diagnostics and gave detailed report of what they thought was wrong. Their estimate was very high though. My mechanic did the repairs for less than half of what the dealer wanted.
Another tip, search craigslist.org or local mechanics for someone with recent ASE "Master" mechanic certification - this usually means they have brains and experience.
I found a mechanic in Boston area, who has been certified Master Mechanic by ASE and Nissan, and opened his own shop. He's the best mechanic I've seen, and only charges $70/ hour.
Hope this helps.
-Eugene
I still do not understand exactly what the problem is, but the dealer insists that the rust in the place, where the engine sits on the transmission, prevents the electrical signal from being read properly by some engine sensors, which results in hard starts and sometimes loud knocks during starts.
Based on the fact that I had trouble free starting after their last transmission sand-down for at least 9 months(it slowly started getting worse after this - 10 more months and I'm back where I started.), I think they are right about what the issue is - but do not do a good job at fixing it. They said that the problem should not re-appear for 5+ years, so I am disappointed.
Again, the dealer said that this is common with 95-99 Maximas, and they have seen many similar issues. Does anyone have a similar experience?
Thank you,
Eugene
My Inlaws have 2004 Nisan Maxima with 40K miles on it
They bought it new
ABS system just broke (don't know details)
To fix it dealer ask for 4K
Is there anything they can do?
Thanks
ROss
You'll probably save ~50%
If you're in the Boston area - I can give you few numbers.
-Eugene
1. Ball joints are trashed. This would also make the car twitchy and unstable, and if not repaired on time, they start to rattle and eventually fall off, taking a wheel with them. A mechanic can check this in 5 minutes, once the car is lifted.
2. Sway bar links are worn out. This will result in a knocking sound on every bump. A mechanic can check this in 5 minutes, once the car is lifted.
3. Strut/Shock mounts. These, if broken, can allow the top of the shock/strut to have some horizontal movement - making a rattle on bumps. A mechanic can check this in 5 minutes, once the car is lifted by trying to move the top end of the strut, using a pry bar, from below the wheel.
4. One of the exhaust heat shields has rusted and got partially loose. This can introduce a general rattle while the car is shaking (going over a bump, starting). Again, a mechanic can check this in 5 minutes, once the car is lifted, by starting it and listening to the rattles.
Take it to a mechanic you trust and ask them to show you what they have found.
I had to change the ball joints and links a couple of years ago. Since your car is older, you’ll probably need to change some of the above.
If you end up changing the mounts, it makes sense to change the struts and strut boots at the same time. If it’s the ball joints, you’ll have to go with the aftermarket, as Nissan only sells them as part of the control arm.
Here are the replacement prices based on $65/hour labor rate.
Ball joints - front (replace in pairs): $58 part + $90 labor per wheel.
Sway bar links- front (replace in pairs): $110/wheel for part and labor.
Strut mount - front (replace in pairs): $35 part + $60 labor per wheel. + need alignment.
Hope this helps.
-Eugene
Still I pulled over and tightened it again. I'm going to drive it a couple of days as the manual says it "may" go off by itself.
On my Lexus I can turn this light off by holding in the "odometer reset" button and turning the key ON. I didn't see a procedure in the Maxima's manual though.
I guess my regular mechanic can hook an ODB II analyzer to it, or I can go by the Nissan dealership (50 miles away) next time I'm in the "big city".
I'm guessing that most things that turn this on are "emissions" related so covered by the 80K miles mandated warranty, correct?
Thanks in advance for any ideas/hints.
windy6
Good luck.
Heres the kicker ; they told her that NISSAN is aware that the tranny has this problem with MAXIMAS but becasue it is not a safety issue they have not did a recall.Also they said that the mechanic that flushed it before should have done a half flush.The mechanic even said that he had to put a new tranny in his wife's "04"
max.I'm not sure how many mile she had. My co-worker has taken her care to the dealership for the regular maintenance schdule also.I AM GETTING RID OF MY BETWEEN 40K & 50K and only having half flushes. They also told her that they are told if they notice a small leak of any kind of fluid they are told to not mention it unless the customer specficly ask for it.
HAS ANYONE ELSE HAD THIS TYPE OF PROBLEMS.I will provide the dealerships names upon request.THIS IS IMPORTANT.
To check the condition of a ball joint: Raise the car with the tires pointing straight ahead, grab the top of the tire with one hand and the bottom of the tire with the other. Pull with the top hand and push with the bottom, then reverse. If tire moves at all, ball joint is on it’s way out. Movements of 1/4 inch mean that the ball joint is completely busted. Usually, if the tire has movement, it’ll be accompanied by a noticeable metal squeak.
There is another, more reliable, way to catch the ball joint failing before it’s completely busted, but for this, you’d have to insert a pry bar between the axle(I think...) and the ball joint, and see if you can get later to move. Do not push against any rubber parts(boots) – you’ll break them.
Nissan does not sell ball joints for this gen.(95-99) of Maxima's separately, but as a part of the control arm, which is more expensive.($160+ v.s. $60 for aftermarket ball joint) Unfortunately, most aftermarket ball joints have average lifespan of only about two years.
I first looked at the original equipment first, but decided to go with KYB AGX, since they were cheaper and have good reputation. These also have adjustable dumping, meaning you can adjust their firmness to your liking in 2 minutes. I changed the shocks, strut mounts, and boots at all four corners, and left the factory springs.
Now, 2000 miles after the change, I still find myself looking for excuses to take an extra ride, whenever I have time. I'm enjoying the car as if this was a new toy. I drive at 1/4 firmness setting, switching to 1/2 firmness for fun once in a while. My average gas mileage dropped from 27mpg to 23mpg, as I find myself having fun pushing the car harder.
I had the KYB front strut mount bearing squeaking at first, but my mechanic injected some lithium grease into it, and it was fine since then.
At 1/4 max firmness the ride feels like the stock replacement, with better handling, less leaning in corners and less wobbling at highway speeds. I guess the ride is equiv. to KYB GR-2, which are cheaper, but are not adjustable.
At 1/2 max firmness the ride is harder, but is still OK. I like this setting for drives on highway/back roads, but the road imperfections can get annoyingly noticeable during everyday commute. I have not tried firmer settings, as I feel they'd be way too hard for me.
Anyway, when the mechanic removed the old shocks, they found that while the fronts were the 10 year old factory installed shocks, the rears were ~3.5 year old Monroe Sensatrack, prev. owner must have changed the rears. As I mentioned before, I felt the both the front and the back gotten too soft - which means that Monroe's got worn in less than 4 years. Will see how KYB does on the reliability.
Expenses:
$310 KYB AGX shocks set
$140 Front(w/bearings) and rear KYB strut mounts, 4x boots.
$450 Labor to replace + 4 wheel alignment.
------
$900 Total
Could it be that what you feel, is torque steer? Not having the proper alignment could make the torque steer feel worse. If this is tied to the specific speed range - check whether the tires are properly balanced, and whether the wheels are still perfectly round.
I know I feel torque steer at 3.5-5k rpm, but it's not bad. Was much worse before I got the car aligned
and changed the air filter gas filter and the coil in one it is still stalling alittle the engine light is not on i dont know what to do i am worried please help me
Many years ago I had a rt front wheel bearing fail (warranty expired) and after I took it to my dealer 3 times and explaining that there was play in that tire, they wouldn't do anything (thought it was normal, since they also sold Buicks). I finally had an independent garage fix it, and by then the failed bearing had eaten into the axle, requiring a hub assembly.
At somewhere over 100,000 miles I had struts replaced (stut boots had disintegrated, and strut bearings were clunking when turning wheel at low speed). They also replaced front lower control arms because one of the bushings had migrated. I had them both replaced since I do competition driving (high speed autocross).
13 years old and still going strong. Never any internal engine, clutch, trans, or A/C problems at all (just injectors and O2 sensors).
Thanks Konel
If you have hot water going in but not coming out it's either a massive clog or a bad valve. That's about it.
You could take compressed air to one of the hoses and blast it through.
Let's see, what else. You could have a bad water pump but then the car would overheat pretty darn quick.