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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • konelkonel Member Posts: 3
    I went to the line going into the heater core that has the valve in it and I disconnected the vacum line that pulls the valve open.Then I manualy engaged the valve lever. I know the valve is working because before I moved the valve the heater hose is getting hot up to but not beyond the valve,Once I open the valve the hose gets hot on the back side of the valve going into the heater core but the return hose
    back to the engine never gets even warm. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might try that compressed air trick I mentioned.
  • benbearbenbear Member Posts: 1
    My 1999 Maxima has the same problem. Once it happened the "Service Engine Soon" light will be on. How did you fix it? Thanks for your kind reply.
    Ben
  • billy08billy08 Member Posts: 2
    How does one go about re-setting the sun roof on a 2004 Nissan Maxima. It opens but wont close all the way. When you open it, it stops about every 3-4 inches then it would not close and after messing with the button it closed but not tight. Then I finally got it to close and have not opened for fear of not being able to close it. Somewhere I heard of re-setting the computer, but I dont know the procedure to do that...
    Thanks for any and all help in advance,
    Billy08
  • billy08billy08 Member Posts: 2
    GP, shimed in and gave me this procedure to re-program the sun roof on my 2004 Maxima.
    Billy,

    I am a Nissan rep and have seen this many times. Ussualy happens after changing a battery but it could be anything. Your absolutley right it is not a motor it just needs to be reprogrammed. I have heard some dealers try charge for a power motor for the roof etc,etc... But all you have to do to reprogram it is. Hold the button to open. It will open partially. Once that happens hold the button again to open. It will go back further. Now continue this process till the roof opens completely. Than proceed to close the roof in the same fashion all the way untill it tilts up and than back down to closed position. That is the process to reprogram the roof. It may take a couple of cycles but it will work! After the first attempt try it. Good luck. The whole process should take 5 minutes or less. DOn't let anyone tell you different. I have done plenty of these.

    GP
  • alexstorealexstore Member Posts: 264
    but 04+ MAXIMA USES SLIDER TO OPEN ROOF AND BUTTON TO SLIDE IT UP
  • jay116jay116 Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a nissan maxima 3.5SE. I currently have 3800 miles. The dealer service manual reccommends service at 3750 miles. Should I service the vehicle and follow the manual or should I wait to maybe 5000 miles or another recoomended mielage amount. Also, should I go to the dealer to service my vehicle since my car is new still under warranty? Or should i go elsewhere to service my vehicle like a firestone?
  • alexstorealexstore Member Posts: 264
    since its your baby, if I were you, I will take care of it and follow manual's , not dealer's maintenance procedures. Some can be skipped. I personally baby my car with syntetic oil every 3750 miles major maintenance at 15000 and transmission oil/coolant flash every 30000. Now under normal conditions, your front brakes should last 40k+ and tires ( if you have originals) 60K.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,434
    My sisters car, so debugging long distance... Hasn't been running right for a few months. Based on the symptoms (see below) I thought bad plug wire or coil pack, but that seems to have been tried. Anyone have a bright idea? Fuel pump?

    A/T, about 70K on it I think.
    ####################

    It's been in 3 times and yesterday they said it was fine. I drove 1 mile home and it started to miss-fire pulling in the garage. I went out an hour later to a restaurant in town and it was a bucking bronco every time I had to idle. It runs fine as long as my foot is on the gas. I've had a coil and injector, plugs and filters replaced

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • i_me_minei_me_mine Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 Maxima GLE that I bought new. Sometimes, after stopping for a traffic light for example, I'll step on the gas to resume travel and nothing happens for about a second or two and then it kicks in - during all of this time the shift handle has remained in the same Drive position (I'm not manually shifting through D1, D2, etc.).
    This did happen once or twice in the past and I figured it would never be reproducible at the dealership, but the other night it made itself very obvious when it hesitated off the line for longer than just a couple of seconds, and during the hesitation period it was obvious that the car was ever so slowly moving forward until it finally kicked fully into gear. My car has only 30K miles on it but is out of warranty (the three year default warranty). Question - is there a TSB that would cover this (this is not a fluid leakage problem), and isn't there a drive train warranty that covers this for a longer period of time? Thanks for any help with this.
  • oveyovey Member Posts: 2
    I have a 91 maxima, low miles for the age (abour 110). One day it just started running very rough, like a cylinder wasn't firing. I don't know enough to diagnose it though. Mechanic said one piston wasn't firing due to clogged fuel injector. Naturally, it's like a million dollars to replace it (and the rest, might as well based on the age). I tried some fuel injector cleaner off the shelf, but it didn't work. The car isn't worth but $1200 so I don't want to spend much to get it running smoothly - any ideas? Thanks!
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,434
    Well, the other culprits for that symptom are a bad coil pack (although i don't know if a '91 has individual coil packs, the little gizmo that sits on top of each spark plug boot), or even simpler, a bad spark plug wire.

    I had this problem on my Contour once. It suddenly started running like a threshing machine, and it turned out to be a broken plug wire. new wires and it ran like new.

    You can also have the injectors cleaned instead of replacing them. And it only 1 is bad, you don't really have to replace them all at the same time.

    If you haven't ever done plugs and wires, might want to do that anyway.

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • dgm1974dgm1974 Member Posts: 4
    Hello, I just bought a 1991 nissan maxima last sunday, & it has problem like it doesnt shift to 3rd gear anymore. Have any idea what is the problem? The seller said its probably the speed sensor as per mechanic said to him. The speedometer is no longer working too.Any help? Thanks. :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think your car is too old for electronic shift technology. You'd best check your fluid level and if it's okay have a service done and filter change. If that doesn't cure it, you'll probably have to have a transmision shop look it over. It might be a sticking valve body, which I suspect is the case, or some other type of "internal leak".
  • dgm1974dgm1974 Member Posts: 4
    Thank you mr. shiftright. I will do what you've adviced. I'll post what happen nxt time.God bless..
  • og4lifeog4life Member Posts: 25
    I have a 99 Maxima with $205K miles on it. My service engine light has been on for as long as I can remember. I had Autozone check it and the machine pulled codes P0400(Blocked or failed EGR valve) and P0138 (O2 sensor defective). I also had it checked by my mechanic a couple weeks later and he said no code was present and cleared it for me. Of course, a day later the light is back on. My questions are:

    Would autozone have a better reader and that's why codes were present?

    Can a mechanic tell if the O2 sensor and EGR valve is defective before replacing it?

    My car is running relatively good for the mileage and i would hate to spend $350 to $700 replacing these parts if its not going to make a difference.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Is your car eating gas? Stalling or running a bit rough? Do you get a rotten egg smell from under the car?
  • og4lifeog4life Member Posts: 25
    The last four times I've filled up I gotten between 23 - 26.5 miles a gallon, which is about average. The only thing I notice is when I decelerate and than hit the gas to pick up speed, the switching of gears is not that smooth.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The EGR valve can be tested with a simple vacuum tool; the 02 is harder to diagnose, but a good mechanic can do it with a sophisticated voltmeter (not a cheapie) and with the car running. He can also put a machine on to sniff the tailpipe to see if you are running richer than normal and therefore possibly damaging the catalytic.
  • og4lifeog4life Member Posts: 25
    Thanks for all your help. I really appreciate it. I went to AutoZone today and now the only code is the EGR valve. I guess the O2 sensor got better - lol.
  • toytruck2toytruck2 Member Posts: 2
    My car needs coils and spark plugs at 90000 miles. Where can I buy genuine Nissan parts online and get the ones with the new part number at a low price?
  • og4lifeog4life Member Posts: 25
    I have a 99 maxima SE and my car has been pulling to the right for some time. I just got a realignment (3rd one in less than two years) and the problem is not solved. Does anyone have any advice? I just bought new tires and the air pressure is right. Would bad struts cause the car to pull? My mechanic said they should be replaced soon.
  • fg54fg54 Member Posts: 2
    Would anyone know what the ERT is to replace rear brake pads and rotors for a Maxima?
  • alexstorealexstore Member Posts: 264
    they should last you 40k+. Though it all depends on type of driving you have and the environment.
  • fg54fg54 Member Posts: 2
    Thank you for your response but, I am looking for the Estimated Repair Time (ERT).
  • tb4metb4me Member Posts: 41
    Hi all. I just changed my spark plugs(112000 miles) and the idle increased to about 1000 rpm in park and 850 rpm in gear. I used the ngk original replacement plugs and yes had to remove the upper intake to get to the back ones. Used a new gasket when putting back together too, cleaned the throttle plates and runners with gumout while it was off. The engine seems to run fine however in addition to the idle increase, the check engine light came on a few days later but continues to run good.. I checked for vacume leaks and there are none. Any suggestions before the trip to the dealer?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Check engine light is always associated with emissions. I would go to a auto parts store and have them pull the codes associated with the light rather than try and guess what the problem is.
  • dgm1974dgm1974 Member Posts: 4
    ON MY 1991 NISSAN MAXIMA, I FOUND OUT THAT THE PROBLEM WHY MY SPEEDOMETER & ODOMETER ARE NOT WORKING ,IS THERE IS A FAULTY WIRING OR DISCONNECTED WIRE TO THE SPEED SENSOR. WHAT I DID WAS CONNECTED & SOLDERED THE WIRE. NOW IT IS WORKING. THANKS FOR THE ADVICES.. :)
  • tb4metb4me Member Posts: 41
    thanks--will try that.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    what year maxima?
  • daubdaub Member Posts: 1
    Just had the identical problem with my son in laws Stratus. Auto Zone said it was the "output speed sendor on the transmission". Went to the dealer for the part. $20.00. Found where it was located and replaced. Works great. The speedometer not working is a clear sign. Make sure you replace the "output" sensor as there is an input that looks similar.
  • ldc5ldc5 Member Posts: 4
    The check engine light started coming on about 9 months after buying my '02 Maxima, with the P0138 code. Although it only has ~78K miles on it, I replaced the O2 sensor recommended by the error code diagnosis and cleared the error code using an Actron analyzer. The same code still comes on......any advice to finally resolve putting-out this darn check engine light is greatly appreciated.

    Dennis
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You might need to have the harness checked for bad wiring. This can cause the ECM to get a weird voltage signal from the 02 sensor 2, and throw the P0138 code.

    So maybe clean up whatever connections you can and clear the code. It might clear itself. Sometimes they do.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    I had a similar problem once. Replaced the O2 sensor, cleared the check engine light, after running a couple of minutes the check engine light returns. Code says MAF then I'm thinking man this sucks and yank the battery cable and left it off for 30 minutes. Reconnect and all codes cleared and never came back.

    Sometimes a hard reboot will do it.
  • ldc5ldc5 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks will try this first, before ripping into checking continuity along the harness
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No Haynes won't do it.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Agreed. I bought the Nissan factory manual DVD on ebay for my now sold '00 maxima for $20+ shipping. I would try there first.
  • donmac66donmac66 Member Posts: 1
    What year cars will replace the IAC valve. Are they they interchangeable on other models as well. I am looking at replacing with a used one.
  • ldc5ldc5 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks much for you advice, in not bothering with the Haynes manual. I received the CD version of Nissan's manual off ebay. A quick scan of it, looks good.

    Now to troubleshooting this annoying P0138 code. I meant to previously include mentioning that I saw an old posting out on the internet, not on this site, that someone indicated the ECM may need to updated software/firmware, since there was a version of code that could cause the ECM to be too sensitive, falsely tripping the error code? Did you know of this possibility? If so, is this something that is dealer fixed only?

    thanks,
    -Dennis
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Here's what I found for you on that:

    Classification:
    EC02-014a

    Reference:
    NTB02-05aa

    Date:
    July 16, 2003

    2000-2002 MAXIMA; MIL "ON" WITH REAR 02 SENSOR DTC P0138/P0139/P0140/P0158/P0159/P0160/P1147/P1167

    This bulletin supersedes NTB01-016B, and amends NTB02-051. This version updates the Service Procedure and Applied Vehicles.

    Please discard all paper copies of NTB01-016 and previous version of NTBO2-051.
    APPLIED VEHICLES:
    2000 - 2002 Maxima (A33)

    IF YOU CONFIRM:

    An Applied Vehicle has an MIL "ON" and any of the following DTCs stored in the ECM:
    ^ P0138 (Bank 1) H0252 (Rear) (Max Voltage Monitoring)

    ^ P0139 (Bank 1) H0252 (Rear) (Response Monitoring)

    ^ P0140 (Bank 1) H0252 (Rear) (High Voltage)

    ^ P1147 (Bank 1) H0252 (Rear) (High Voltage Monitoring)

    ^ P0158 (Bank 2) H02S2 (Rear) (Max Voltage Monitoring)

    ^ P0159 (Bank 2) H0252 (Rear) (Response Monitoring)

    ^ P0160 (Bank 2) H02S2 (Rear) (High Voltage Monitoring)

    ^ P1167 (Bank 2) H02S2 (Rear) (High Voltage Monitoring),

    DETERMINE IF:

    This bulletin applies by performing steps 1 and 2 of the Service Procedure.

    ACTIONS:
    a. Replace rear Oxygen Sensor(s) (H02S2).

    ^ 2000 federal emissions Maximas have only 1 rear 02 sensor (Bank 1); replace it.

    ^ Other Maximas have 2 rear 02 sensors (Bank 1 and Bank 2); replace both.

    b. Reprogram the ECM:

    ^ Standard reprogramming procedure (if vehicle has a standard airflow meter, P/N 22680-AD200 or 22680-6N201-see Chart A-1), or

    ^ Special reprogramming procedure using ECM ID code (if vehicle has an updated airflow meter, P/N 22680-2Y001 or 22680-AM600-see Chart A-2).

    IMPORTANT :
    ^ The purpose of "ACTIONS (above) is to give you a quick idea of the work you will be performing. You MUST closely follow the entire Service Procedure as it contains information that is essential to successfully completing this repair.

    ^ Due to the complexity of this procedure, this procedure should only be performed by a technician who is already familiar with ECM reprogramming.
  • lovejplovejp Member Posts: 1
    I just had my vent blower go out. I took the dash apart and found that the wire plug going into the resistor had heated up and slagged. Is this a symptom of some wiring/relay defect or should replacing the resistor and plug solve the problem? The fan/motor seems okay though I don't have an electronic circuit tester. No fuses blew that I could find and no code was thrown. Any suggestions?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Hard to predict but since melting is a sure sign of excessive resistance, one would suspect that replacing the resistor is, at least, a logical guess.
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    And before putting everything back together watch and see if you have another meltdown. Better the resistor than a nuclear reactor.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    That's good advice. I'd test it out and watch it for a while.
  • windarterwindarter Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2003 manual Maxima SE that has 150k miles. I have already had two complete engines replaced under warranty. Nissan could not (or would not) tell me why either of the engines replaced failed, though oil consumption was main indicator. Now the third engine is using oil (quart every 500 miles), even though engine only has 45k on it, and of course is no longer under warranty. I have never experienced this with any of the other vehicles I have owned, Nissan or otherwise. Has anyone heard of engine issues with the manual version of the Maxima??
  • bode3bode3 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1995 Maxima with 140K. We have a recent problem with a very rough idle when the car is engaged but stopped (doesn't happen in park). Car runs beautifully otherwise. Local mechanic said he could not see anything obvious and could not get enough information from the car and thought the cost of trouble shooting could easily exceed the worth of the car.
    Has any one experienced a similar problem?
  • obyoneobyone Member Posts: 7,841
    Check you idle air controller.
  • challatt7challatt7 Member Posts: 2
    thank you for putting this up as i am having the same problem with my one of my o2 sensors. i understand that in order to fix the problem i need to replace both of the o2 sensors followed by an ECM reprogram. my question is, if i wanted to save myself the labor costs of replacing the o2 sensors would it be harmful to my motor/what would be the effect of replacing the sensors at home then to drive a few miles to the dealer to have the ECM reprogram done. also cant any shop do a reprogram or is that something only a dealership can do? thank you for your time MR SHIFTRIGHT
  • bode3bode3 Member Posts: 3
    just keep this in mind. I have now replaced the o2 sensor three times. Once with a local shop and twice with the dealer. Every winter it has difficulty starting and the check engine light comes on. I had enough of replacing these sensors and have driven the car for five years now. The dealer also replace the wiring harness thinking it might be a worn wire.... no, $1500 later I have the same problem but it does not impact the drivability.
  • bode3bode3 Member Posts: 3
    thanks. I actually took the car out and really pushed it uphill. It made a big difference. I think short drives were creating a build up of carbon. 13 years old and still a nice ride.
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