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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • meister4Umeister4U Member Posts: 7
    Process of elimination.
    If you know how to check the power steering fluid do that, if not check this...the motor oil will appear brown golden color or black if very old, and the power steering an d transmission fluid is usually a berry red. If you keep your car in a garage, put paper under the car and it will give you a better idea of the type of oil and location of the leak. To avoid costly power steering repair Bahrs makes a sealant for power steering units along with radiator cooling sealants. That might be a good idea to add to your power steering fluid when you see that it is low. That is most likely the problem from what you are describing. Is there any indication of moisture in the lense such as fogging? Or it could be a bulb on the way out or a loose wire or bulb. Hard to say sight unseen. Hope this helps.
  • maxman7maxman7 Member Posts: 10
    Hey, Thank you for Your opinion on the leaky maxima. Have not tryed the paper thing yet but good idea, My question now is, Is the power steering pump located in that area above the oil filter area? My next question is, If the bahrs sealant wont stop it what kind of costs am I looking at for parts and labor? I have a Bud that runs a junkyard and might get a break on the pump. As for the headlamp it is one of them new HID lights, ( ones that look blue) I have heard the ballasts need cleaned sometimes, and might need to reset the micro-processor, Ah all these modern features, there great until they tear up. Anyway thanks much for the help if You think of anything else I will definately be looking for Ya. Thanks Maxman7
  • maxman7maxman7 Member Posts: 10
    Hi ,I to own a 04 maxima only its the SL. edition. I know what you are talking about seems Mine has trouble in cold weather, I figured out if My windows are fogged which seems to happen worse than on most cars, that the CD. player skips and is slow to read CD,s. It is moisture on Your laser lens of the CD player just like on Your windows. Seems to help if You run the defrost on high for a few minutes, other than that I,m afraid it is one of those little quirks We will just have to deal with. Hope this helps You. MAXMAN7
  • poodog13poodog13 Member Posts: 320
    I have had consistent trouble finding wiper blades that fit my 06 Maxima's windshield profile. Every blade I've tried fails to make good and consistent contact across the entire contact area (particularly the left 26" blade). I tried Bosch Icons last time and they were better than most, but still the contact at the far right wasn't full.

    Any ideas appreciated!
  • maxman7maxman7 Member Posts: 10
    They are gonna do that in cold temperatures, I dont Know where You live but the hotter the day the better, cause they will be more plyable, You might try heating them with a hairdryer or something while they are installed and turn them on, see if they will conform to the shape of Your windshield. I wish this was the only problem I had with My car. I have a leak, and cant seem to figure out where, I guess I will have no choice but to trust a mechanic to be honest with Me. Good luck!
  • maxman7maxman7 Member Posts: 10
    Hey its Me again, I have the leaky maxima with high mileage, I was unable to identify where the leak was coming from. To be honest I couldnt decide if it was oil or power steering fluid, I am a pretty good mechanic just not real familiar with the imports as much as with the american cars, I placed some paper under the car and caught some of the leak, It really looks like motor oil to me, but looking in the reservoir for steering fluid, it looks almost identical. Maybe Nissan uses weird kind of fluid there, I know they have a certain type of AT. fluid that looks unconventional. So I made a mark on My reservoir to see if I can detect a drop over the next couple of days. I have never noticed a drop on the oil dipstick, but that doesnt mean its not the oil. I have heard certified nissan people say the o-ring between the oil cooler and engine block are bad to leak. I have been hoping that was the deal cause the seal is ten bucks and does not look very hard to get to according to schematics I have of a 3.5 nissan engine. Well wish Me luck, I haul three Kids in this car and cant afford much of a hit. maxman7
  • sanjaysdcasanjaysdca Member Posts: 269
    Best of luck...

    Also take a look at post 3953 for a link to complete service manual..it might help you
  • asnb0i51oasnb0i51o Member Posts: 1
    Hey, i have a question. i just found out i had an coil issue today... do you happen to know HOW this happened? how do COILS go bad?
  • maxman7maxman7 Member Posts: 10
    Hey thanks sanjaysdca, I already have that link downloaded. It is a very good trouble shooting guide,but My problem is trying to make a pinpoint decision on what is leaking, Ther are several things in that area that it could be and they are all wet from migration of the oil. I,m afraid the car is gonna have to be put on a rack to see good enuff to be sure, I,m thinking about having Big O lift it for Me to just take a better look. I sure am hoping its just a pesky o-ring on the oil cooler. But thanks for your concern, It seems nobody has time to stop and lend a hand now days. maxman7
  • maxman7maxman7 Member Posts: 10
    Man I,m no certified tech. but I have learned more often than not, most electrical components on cars unless saturated with water, dirt or oil, just go bad with no real warning or reason. As for these coils I,m not sure if bad plugs can be a factor or not, but if Your having coils changed I would advise a plug change on it too,(all six). Cause the plugs are down under them coils. You definately wont be hurting anything if Your plugs are old, Cause it may help performance and MPG. Have You recently washed or steamed Your engine? I,m sure moisture could destroy the coils. But My father owned a car that the computer went out on at only 40 miles old. dealer,s reply was Hey it happens sometimes, replaced the computer and drove it for 175,000 miles with no problems. Most cars I have seen with these new coil packs on them have at least one coil go bad by 100,000 miles, I guess nothing is perfect. maxman7
  • dx1hfdx1hf Member Posts: 4
    Just letting you all know that, in the final analysis, this $2865 repair quoted by the dealer was nowhere near justified. To the guys that suggested putting in two oxygen sensors in bank 1...you were correct. After replacing the two O2 sensors in that bank...all codes have been clear for a month and I have a brand new inspection sticker. As a side benefit the car is also running alot smoother and the gas mileage I get is a heck of alot better than what it was!! Thanks for your help...I saved about $2300 dollars here on this forum..and the dealer can go pound sand.
  • maxman7maxman7 Member Posts: 10
    Good for You, I guess We are gonna have to stick together as a car community, cause the companies think We have to buy their car,s They are gonna rape us. I sometimes wonder if it would,nt be easier to go back to riding horse,s. Remember this experiance, cause it seems this is the standard for Nissan. If enough people quit buying nissan and reported to them why, I bet they would change there damn tune then. As much money as they have made off American,s and let those crooked little dealers rape customer,s. They better screen out their sale,s people or it will catch them. Yeh, I get alittle bent outta shape bout that stuff! Cause there are people that work their butt off to buy these car,s, Me being one of them and then get done dishonest, Has Nissan forgot that they were just second best to Toyota,s durabillity and quality? My Dad has baught three new Toyota,s and He and His whole family get treated like royalty from the first one to the last. and never had a question if they would do the right thing or not. maxman7
  • jrockettjrockett Member Posts: 1
    I have a 91 maxima and my car starts when it wants to,the person i purchase the car from stated that it only happens when its cold out because the gas freezes.But lately it's been warm outside and my car will not start it tries but it will not catch and if I keep trying it cuts off completely like the battery died out,also when I'm driving the gear has slipped a couple of times.
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Member Posts: 536
    I have only 56k miles on my Max but i need new front rotors because the [non-permissible content removed] at my local brake shop cut them down to .872 from .925 (minimum is .866). Recently my brakes have been noisy and seem to take longer to stop (probably in my head).

    My research on rotors shows they are mostly made in China now [even from the big names like Wagner (125799) and NAPA Ultimate(880074)] so how do i decide which ones to get? any suggestions?
  • maxman7maxman7 Member Posts: 10
    Hello, maxman7 here, Yes Your correct they are produced oversea,s. But isnt everything? If You look closely on a Ford or Chevy, You will see the relays computers and ETC. are foreign made. To answer Your question, Wagner and Napa are good brake products. I use Wagner thermo-Quiet pads on My maxima, They are the best I have used yet.As for Your stopping performance, if You got any grease or brake fluid on them they can grab or not perform well,but chances are it is from having them turned, Never do that as Your stopping is more important than Your going,it is Your life depending on Your bakes to stop. And rotors are just not that high, You can get a good set of front for around $80.00,and a premium set for 200.00. Did You change the pads when You had the rotors turned? If the rotors were re-installed faulty You may well have damaged the pads.And if You install new rotors with bad pads You can damage the rotors, If You hav,nt drove much with the turned rotors Your probably ok. If You really want premium rotors I suggest willwood cross-drilled rotors. They are the ones have all the holes in them to release heat and debris.If you are on a budget like Myself wagner or Napa are fine and carry a pretty competative warranty. I promise You If You try Wagner Thermo-quiet,ceramic pads You will never use anything else. Absolutely no brake dust on Your wheels,no squealing with great heat transfer. all this adds up to great stopping power and many,many more miles on both rotorsand pads before another change. I an very poor but I will not skip on My brakes as I have three kids,Me and My wife depending on them.Trust Me You will even feel safer knowing what Ya got . Good luck,and dont forget to check your back brakes also. Maxman7
  • dx1hfdx1hf Member Posts: 4
    My 2001 Maxima SE is starting to get a bit spongy/bouncy on all four corners of the car. It has 98,000 miles on it. What are my alternatives for "as-good or better than original equipment" shocks/struts/springs/bushings etc/? Can you guys recommend a good solution? Recently I cheaped-out on a set of shocks and struts for a Camry and got burned. The dealer wanted $2000 to replace the shocks and struts. So I went to Midas and they sold me junk for $500...said it was equal to OEM... but it turns out the shock piston is smaller. Now I can't drink coffee in that car without getting soaked. Don't want to go through this with the Max. LOL Have patience...I have alot of liars in my neigborhood but I learn fast.
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Member Posts: 536
    REF: 3970
    I have 2003 Max SE with only 56k miles on it. Recently i thought i had a front suspension issue but it turned out to be brake hardware. I researched struts/strut mounts just in case i needed to replace them. You can also check out the maxima.org web site (for true max geeks). I was going to get KYB GR2 struts for the front and the total parts cost was $300 (incl. shipping) from rockauto_dot_com You may be able to match that price locally as KYB is available at some retail stores...
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Member Posts: 536
    REF: 3969
    thanks for the inputs. As luck would have it, my local CAR-X (brake shop) did install Wagner pads as part of their $80 brake deal. i do have Thermoquiet on the front and they are great; also i have the lower end Quickstop on the rear and they are also quiet. My main issue is the rotors and i am leaning toward the NAPA Ultra Premium as they appear to be a reboxed Raybestos Advanced Technology set. I intend to reuse the front pads (only 2k miles on them) after a bit of sanding...thx
  • sanjaysdcasanjaysdca Member Posts: 269
    Midas is there to rape the uninformed...

    I recently changed my shocks on my Infiniti I30..essentially the same car with KYB GR2 and am very happy with it. These are considered the entry level performance shocks.

    One thing to remember if you go to an independent shop that does not do Maxima's
    The bushing on the rear suspension torsion beam are oil filled and if the car is lifted by the torsion beam the bushing will leak. If that happens then you have to change the whole beam. The part itself is $600 and there are no aftermarket alternative.

    So why am I telling you this?
    It happened in my car.
    The point to lift the car is very close to the bushing and it can happen very easily and it happened in my car. In most cars the bushings can be replaced independent of the torsion beam and they are generally not oil filled. Thats not the case in Maxima.
    Just be cognizant
    Good luck
  • boogie560boogie560 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 05 Maxima that i have recently purchased. Um, it seems to be making this loud schreeching sound every time I start the car.! What could that be and how can i fix it..Thanks for all your help in advance.
  • maxman7maxman7 Member Posts: 10
    Maxman7 here, Hopefully for You the screaching Your hearing is just a loose or dirty drive belt, If it seems to get louder or change when You turn the steering wheel it is more than likely a belt. If You are mechanical at all You can fix that, There are Two belts on it and two adjusters one for each belt. One is located by the altinator on top of engine,and other is located by the power steering pump,on the lower part of engine. On each of the adjusters there is a adjusting bolt and a locking bolt. Make sure to loosen the lock bolt before trying to adjust the adjusting bolt,and make sure to tighten the lock bolt back after adjustments have been made. For referance the lock bolt is on front of adjuster and the adjusting bolt is on the top. I cant name off the lbs. spec,s off the top of My head,but if Ya need to now I can get it off a download for maxima,s I have,and I can give You the site to download that from. It is the program that actual Nissan tech,s use to go by and it covers every single nut & bolt on Nissan,Maxima,s. If it turns out it is not a belt issue it may be a worn out timing chain tensioner , that is a very common,bad design on 04 and up Maxima,s that requires pulling the engine out of the car, a real bummer deal. I hope this helps You. Maxman7
  • vwakodevwakode Member Posts: 3
    My 98 nissan maxima is giving me hesitation when trying to speed up on the ramp, even after I had my transmission rebuilt last year (spent approx 2700) . I took my car back to the aamco and they said they did not find anything wrong with the transmission (computer readings).

    I had rebuilt my transmission last year with Aamco, less than a year after my car almost stopped on the road. wanted to keep the car for 2-3 years, and here you go it started giving me problems again. I have done all the services needed for the car but not sure what to do now?

    98 Nissan Maxima - GXE
    194000 miles currently
    185000 miles approx when the transmission was rebuilt by aamco.

    Any advise?
  • jstossel921jstossel921 Member Posts: 1
    the power seatbelts, locks, windows, etc. fail to work all the time.....there will be no power to the car at all and wont start .......ten minutes later it will start no problem and the power works again but car continues to run rough
  • justintammjustintamm Member Posts: 3
    my 2000 maxima i think has a tranny problem and i need help. it shifts hard into 3rd that is with my help, i have to get it to around 4rpms and kind of give the gas a little tap then it shifts in. and it doesnt seem to want to go into 4th at all. it just revs up real high and nothing happens. is there a fix to this or do i need a new tranny. it has 179,000
    any help would be cool
  • birdboywinsbirdboywins Member Posts: 4
    I am the original owner of a 2K2 Maxima with a 6 speed manual transmission including the HLSD that has 104K miles on it. I noticed today that the transmission would sometimes make a quick clang (almost like a bell ringing, except it doesn't reverberate) shifting from 1st to 2nd and then from 2nd to 3rd. If I am very careful with depressing the clutch, I don't hear the clang. And it doesn't happen downshifting from 3rd to 2nd.

    I haven't had any issues with the transmission prior to this. I am on the original clutch. The car has seen mostly highway miles and it is regularly serviced. The car has been great except for the rear brakes rusting out at 85K.

    Anyone have an idea what this is?
  • 530ir1150r530ir1150r Member Posts: 263
    My guess is synchronizers. I'm also guessing you have never changed your transmission fluid. I'd change the fluid first using Red Line fluid and see what happens.
  • laurailaurai Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Maxima SE, 6 speed with 126,000 miles on it. The ABS started making a "humming" noise. Note: Neither the ABS or Brake lights had come on. My dealer diagnosed the problem and stated both rear sensors would need to be replaced. After the diagnosis I drove the car 8 miles and the lights came on. My husband replaced both rear sensors - much cheaper than the dealer's quoted price. However, the lights are still on. My husband drove the car about 3 miles thinking the computer would reset itself - it did not. He also disconnected the battery - still it did not reset. He turned the key slowly and the lights are still on. Question: Does the dealer need to reset the computer? Is there another ABS module that has gone bad? Thanks for the help.
  • birdboywinsbirdboywins Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the suggestion to change the fluid - I'll give it a shot.
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    That problem dates back to the 02 model. I had mine replaced 4 times. Once they put one in brand new and didn't ever turn on. The last one worked for about a year before it started skipping and it graduated from just doing it in cold weather to all year round. Best you can do is go aftermarket. Crutchfield probably has one that will fit right in there. I just traded my 02 in two months ago. While I miss the car a little, I don't miss that jacked up cd player.
  • dr_rebeldr_rebel Member Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    I recently bought a used 2001 Nissan Maxima SE with ~50,000 miles on it. The car is in great shape except for one thing. There is a humming noise coming from the passenger rear area. It starts around 25 mph, then gets loudest around 40 mph, and then it gets quieter (and higher in frequency) around 65 mph. The frequency increases with speed. It alsmot seems like a vinration that somehow gets transmitted through the suspension, I can even sense it with my feet when driving.

    I was convinced that it was the wheel bearing, so I had both passenger-sode wheel bearings replaced. The noise is still the same. The mechanics have been trying to blame it on noisy tires. I have Sunny SN3800 225/45R17 tires on it, which are almost brand new. At low speeds, especially when coming to a stop, the tires are very loud (they sound like riding a mountain bike on a road).

    Any ideas what this noise could be? Is it the tires, or something else?

    Thanks in advance for any suggestions, as this noise drives me totally crazy.

    Martin
  • sanjaysdcasanjaysdca Member Posts: 269
    If I remember correctly 2001 comes with full size spare.
    Swap one wheel/tire out and see if sound pattern changes. If it does then may be its tires.

    Also try asking on maxima.org forums.
  • easypareasypar Member Posts: 191
    No problems with the car, although the blower motor is noisy in cold weather, which we won't have much more of here in CO until this fall. I'd been kicking around getting a new car, I like the new Max but the price-ouch! So we're considering keeping this a few more years.

    Obviously we don't put lots of miles on our cars since I quit work, I was a sales rep putting 55,000/year back then. The Max is a solid car, ride is OK and it hasn't had any maintenance issues. I did the rear brakes about a year ago and the front about 2 years ago, I replaced the battery when I did the front brakes because my local shop had the brand I wanted and I was doing some TX to CO trips to ski and didn't want to get hit with one on the road.

    From reading all the posts on here there's nothing inherent with Maxs that I should worry about, but I have never changed the tranny fluid or plugs. I know this engine has a timing chain instead of belt so no worries about that bill in another year.

    Are there any issues out there that any of you suggest I take care of? Even a couple of hundred $ per month in maintenance is much less than the hit on a new car. Although in a couple of years there might be some '09 Maxs on the used market.

    BTW, oil and filter every 5,000 miles, tires rotated every 10,000 and I run 85 or 87 octane regular gas. 27MPG highway, but I usually keep it right around 70 or a tad slower.

    Thanks in advance.

    easypar
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Member Posts: 536
    2003 SE with 56k miles
    recent mx work: tires, battery, brakes, drain/fill tranny fluid (twice)
    no other major work
    Got the new car itch but every time i test drive something, my Max feels better
  • ranchero14ranchero14 Member Posts: 1
    I am not sure whether my 95 nissan maxima still has a cd changer. The head unit has a cd jambed in it. I believe it came equipped with a cd changer. Where in the car would it be?
  • lhylhy Member Posts: 48
    What are the repair and maintenance costs of Maximas like?

    Are they more expensive to repair compared to other imports (like Honda or Toyota)?

    I'm particularly interested in the costs of ownership for a 1998 Maxima SE or 1995 Maxima. Both have automatic transmissions.
  • caugncaugn Member Posts: 29
    I have a 1997 maxima with 197k miles. I haven't found the repair costs to be anything extraordinary. I had the alternator replaced a few years ago which cost around $150 for parts and labor, and a new battery was $60. And I spent around $200 on a new exhaust system which I installed myself. Other than that I haven't had to repair/replace any other parts.
  • meister4Umeister4U Member Posts: 7
    As a mechanic and the owner of a 1995 Maxima with 136000 mls. on it, the costs have been only for the stadard maintainance and your replacement cost for wear and tear...brakes, filters, etc. Did have the CV joint go after about 90000, and had to have it replaced and did along with the struts. That was a decision that made the ride better. Other wise, the car has never had a major problem. The motor runs like new still and if you keep up with the basics, like oil and filters, and brake pads, it should go forever Just be sure you have a reputable mechanic, check out any used car you are going to buy, if you do not know enough to do it yourself....buyer beware. A well taken care of Maxima is good as gold. This is my 4th Nissan...2nd Maxima. I will buy another when the timecomes.
  • missk1missk1 Member Posts: 1
    Hello I have a the same prob with my car did you ever find out the prob?
  • lhylhy Member Posts: 48
    I have heard that the aftermarket parts for the Maxima are limited, and that is why repairs might cost more, since you have to buy parts from Nissan. It that true?

    Also, does the 1995 Maxima take regular unleaded fuel or only premium?

    And the 1995 Maximas all have timing chains, not belts?
  • easypareasypar Member Posts: 191
    I've only had this happen once, although my wife said it happened to her once too. With the car parked facing uphill a bit, and having sat for awhile I got a loud "rattle" from the engine compartment on start-up. It went away in about 1-2 seconds though.

    I know my 03 Maxima has a timing chain and I'm wondering if it could be a problem with the (I'm assuming oil pressurized) timing chain tensioner.

    The car has 73,000 miles, regular oil/filter changes at 5,000 mile intervals. I checked the oil when it happened and it was full.

    Thanks in advance.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    timing chain on a '95 Maxima.

    You should be able to get most mechanical parts for a '95 but trim pieces and body panels and lens and upholstery bits---yeah, that's probably not so easy anymore. A dealer that is not too lazy is generally your only source for cosmetic and trim bits---or a local Pick A Part. But "expendable" parts, like brake pads, ignition parts, tires, belts, etc. should be readily available at chain stores, NAPA, places like that.
  • sanjaysdcasanjaysdca Member Posts: 269
    There is a possibility that your ignition coils are going to go shortly.

    My 00 Infiniti I30 exhibited timing chain noises at 75000 miles. They started out slowly. Then the noise was almost always there while accelerating and while climbing hills. Car also felt "less powerful".

    At 80K check engine light and TCS light came on and occasionally car viberated at startup. OBD code gave DTC code 1320 .

    Bought 6 OEM ignition coils and 6 OEM spark plugs online for $550. Its very simple one hour job and does not require much mechanical skills. (atleast in 2000 MY).

    This is a well documented problem in maximas and I30. Also check out Maxima.org for details of the procedure.
  • easypareasypar Member Posts: 191
    Thanks sanjay. I never considered it to be the igniters/coils. I always thought they were an ON/OFF proposition and that if one went out to just replace that one. It hasn't turned on the CEL and I never take it on road trips any more, so I'll just keep my ears and eyes open.

    easypar
  • maxima03maxima03 Member Posts: 7
    Wow, this sounds a lot like my car. I hear that clattering sound once in while at startup, and at acceleration. There's an exit ramp near my house that curves steeply upward (almost in a circle) onto the local road. I take that exit every day coming back from work, and I always hear the clatter when I'm approaching the top of the exit. I guess engine strains help reproduce the sound. :sick:

    The strange thing is I almost never hear it if the oil is relatively new. It seems to occur more often as the engine oil ages. At the last maintenance I told the dealer about it, but they couldn't find anything.

    Any other suggestions??? Oh, I have almost 75000 miles on the car. :cry:
  • sanjaysdcasanjaysdca Member Posts: 269
    you are welcome...

    Its a great car...
    The car is also very sensitive to the gas you put it. Mine does well with Chevron and Shell...and extremely bad with ARCO...have no explanation. Its just an observation.

    I believe the coils have design flaw. There was a TSB issued while back...but my car was way outside warranty. The stealer (I mean dealer) wanted 1200 for it...so I did it myself. 500 for parts + 1.5 hour of my time

    If you know how to open bolts and unplug power cords you can do it too in an hour flat.
  • easypareasypar Member Posts: 191
    I used to know how to look up TSBs but it's been a couple of years since I've done any automotive work on my vehicles. Do you happen to remember the years covered?

    I've never heard it when the engine is under "strain". What maxima03 is describing sounds more like that. What I get, only a second or two is much louder/differenct than that.

    easypar
  • tonygolftonygolf Member Posts: 1
    1999 Nissan Maxima GLE six cyl My instrument cluster [fuel,odometer,speedometer,temp]gauges go either to the top or bottom and the odometer goes blank or showing different characters. If parked for a while with power off and I start engine its normal until I hit a bump some or all gauges don't work. Anyone ever had to fix this problem.
  • gavincurtisgavincurtis Member Posts: 1
    The ABS module in this particular instance has a malfunctioning Toshiba signal processor and appears to be a factory defect.

    This module has two processors, a Hitachi peripheral processor which calculates the actual ABS parameters. The other processor is a Toshiba signal processor that takes raw analog signals from wheel sensors and converts into data for the Hitachi CPU to use.

    The Toshiba chip becomes unstable at low temperatures and wheel speed data fluctuates. As the defect manifests, chip will begin to malfunction at higher and higher temps. This corrupt wheel speed data is sent to the Hitachi CPU causing ABS to activate all of the time. Eventually this will burn out the solenoids in the ABS module.

    We have found with these units you have to externally heat the Toshiba chip to nearly 200 degrees F before it begins to function correctly!
  • sandrasmaximasandrasmaxima Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Nissan Maxima which makes a popping noise when I turn the vehicle.
    When I drive my nissan it makes a popping noise in the front of the vehicle and on the side that I the turn on (left turn- pops on the left side, right turn- pops on the right side). Does anyone know what might be the problem?
  • jrhinesjrhines Member Posts: 1
    My 01 has about 125,450 miles. Recently I have a problem with my car not accerlating when I step on the gas. it starts fine, runs well and after driving for about 40 minutes or more, then it will sound like it is staying in a low gear and not shifting. the rpm revs up to1-2 but the speedometer stays about 40 mph no matter whether I step on the gas or not please help everytime I take it to a mechanic they
    drive it for a few minutes and say nothing is wrong. I took it to auto zone for them to put it on the machine no code came up . please help college student
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