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If you know how to check the power steering fluid do that, if not check this...the motor oil will appear brown golden color or black if very old, and the power steering an d transmission fluid is usually a berry red. If you keep your car in a garage, put paper under the car and it will give you a better idea of the type of oil and location of the leak. To avoid costly power steering repair Bahrs makes a sealant for power steering units along with radiator cooling sealants. That might be a good idea to add to your power steering fluid when you see that it is low. That is most likely the problem from what you are describing. Is there any indication of moisture in the lense such as fogging? Or it could be a bulb on the way out or a loose wire or bulb. Hard to say sight unseen. Hope this helps.
Any ideas appreciated!
Also take a look at post 3953 for a link to complete service manual..it might help you
My research on rotors shows they are mostly made in China now [even from the big names like Wagner (125799) and NAPA Ultimate(880074)] so how do i decide which ones to get? any suggestions?
I have 2003 Max SE with only 56k miles on it. Recently i thought i had a front suspension issue but it turned out to be brake hardware. I researched struts/strut mounts just in case i needed to replace them. You can also check out the maxima.org web site (for true max geeks). I was going to get KYB GR2 struts for the front and the total parts cost was $300 (incl. shipping) from rockauto_dot_com You may be able to match that price locally as KYB is available at some retail stores...
thanks for the inputs. As luck would have it, my local CAR-X (brake shop) did install Wagner pads as part of their $80 brake deal. i do have Thermoquiet on the front and they are great; also i have the lower end Quickstop on the rear and they are also quiet. My main issue is the rotors and i am leaning toward the NAPA Ultra Premium as they appear to be a reboxed Raybestos Advanced Technology set. I intend to reuse the front pads (only 2k miles on them) after a bit of sanding...thx
I recently changed my shocks on my Infiniti I30..essentially the same car with KYB GR2 and am very happy with it. These are considered the entry level performance shocks.
One thing to remember if you go to an independent shop that does not do Maxima's
The bushing on the rear suspension torsion beam are oil filled and if the car is lifted by the torsion beam the bushing will leak. If that happens then you have to change the whole beam. The part itself is $600 and there are no aftermarket alternative.
So why am I telling you this?
It happened in my car.
The point to lift the car is very close to the bushing and it can happen very easily and it happened in my car. In most cars the bushings can be replaced independent of the torsion beam and they are generally not oil filled. Thats not the case in Maxima.
Just be cognizant
Good luck
I had rebuilt my transmission last year with Aamco, less than a year after my car almost stopped on the road. wanted to keep the car for 2-3 years, and here you go it started giving me problems again. I have done all the services needed for the car but not sure what to do now?
98 Nissan Maxima - GXE
194000 miles currently
185000 miles approx when the transmission was rebuilt by aamco.
Any advise?
any help would be cool
I haven't had any issues with the transmission prior to this. I am on the original clutch. The car has seen mostly highway miles and it is regularly serviced. The car has been great except for the rear brakes rusting out at 85K.
Anyone have an idea what this is?
I recently bought a used 2001 Nissan Maxima SE with ~50,000 miles on it. The car is in great shape except for one thing. There is a humming noise coming from the passenger rear area. It starts around 25 mph, then gets loudest around 40 mph, and then it gets quieter (and higher in frequency) around 65 mph. The frequency increases with speed. It alsmot seems like a vinration that somehow gets transmitted through the suspension, I can even sense it with my feet when driving.
I was convinced that it was the wheel bearing, so I had both passenger-sode wheel bearings replaced. The noise is still the same. The mechanics have been trying to blame it on noisy tires. I have Sunny SN3800 225/45R17 tires on it, which are almost brand new. At low speeds, especially when coming to a stop, the tires are very loud (they sound like riding a mountain bike on a road).
Any ideas what this noise could be? Is it the tires, or something else?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions, as this noise drives me totally crazy.
Martin
Swap one wheel/tire out and see if sound pattern changes. If it does then may be its tires.
Also try asking on maxima.org forums.
Obviously we don't put lots of miles on our cars since I quit work, I was a sales rep putting 55,000/year back then. The Max is a solid car, ride is OK and it hasn't had any maintenance issues. I did the rear brakes about a year ago and the front about 2 years ago, I replaced the battery when I did the front brakes because my local shop had the brand I wanted and I was doing some TX to CO trips to ski and didn't want to get hit with one on the road.
From reading all the posts on here there's nothing inherent with Maxs that I should worry about, but I have never changed the tranny fluid or plugs. I know this engine has a timing chain instead of belt so no worries about that bill in another year.
Are there any issues out there that any of you suggest I take care of? Even a couple of hundred $ per month in maintenance is much less than the hit on a new car. Although in a couple of years there might be some '09 Maxs on the used market.
BTW, oil and filter every 5,000 miles, tires rotated every 10,000 and I run 85 or 87 octane regular gas. 27MPG highway, but I usually keep it right around 70 or a tad slower.
Thanks in advance.
easypar
recent mx work: tires, battery, brakes, drain/fill tranny fluid (twice)
no other major work
Got the new car itch but every time i test drive something, my Max feels better
Are they more expensive to repair compared to other imports (like Honda or Toyota)?
I'm particularly interested in the costs of ownership for a 1998 Maxima SE or 1995 Maxima. Both have automatic transmissions.
Also, does the 1995 Maxima take regular unleaded fuel or only premium?
And the 1995 Maximas all have timing chains, not belts?
I know my 03 Maxima has a timing chain and I'm wondering if it could be a problem with the (I'm assuming oil pressurized) timing chain tensioner.
The car has 73,000 miles, regular oil/filter changes at 5,000 mile intervals. I checked the oil when it happened and it was full.
Thanks in advance.
You should be able to get most mechanical parts for a '95 but trim pieces and body panels and lens and upholstery bits---yeah, that's probably not so easy anymore. A dealer that is not too lazy is generally your only source for cosmetic and trim bits---or a local Pick A Part. But "expendable" parts, like brake pads, ignition parts, tires, belts, etc. should be readily available at chain stores, NAPA, places like that.
My 00 Infiniti I30 exhibited timing chain noises at 75000 miles. They started out slowly. Then the noise was almost always there while accelerating and while climbing hills. Car also felt "less powerful".
At 80K check engine light and TCS light came on and occasionally car viberated at startup. OBD code gave DTC code 1320 .
Bought 6 OEM ignition coils and 6 OEM spark plugs online for $550. Its very simple one hour job and does not require much mechanical skills. (atleast in 2000 MY).
This is a well documented problem in maximas and I30. Also check out Maxima.org for details of the procedure.
easypar
The strange thing is I almost never hear it if the oil is relatively new. It seems to occur more often as the engine oil ages. At the last maintenance I told the dealer about it, but they couldn't find anything.
Any other suggestions??? Oh, I have almost 75000 miles on the car.
Its a great car...
The car is also very sensitive to the gas you put it. Mine does well with Chevron and Shell...and extremely bad with ARCO...have no explanation. Its just an observation.
I believe the coils have design flaw. There was a TSB issued while back...but my car was way outside warranty. The stealer (I mean dealer) wanted 1200 for it...so I did it myself. 500 for parts + 1.5 hour of my time
If you know how to open bolts and unplug power cords you can do it too in an hour flat.
I've never heard it when the engine is under "strain". What maxima03 is describing sounds more like that. What I get, only a second or two is much louder/differenct than that.
easypar
This module has two processors, a Hitachi peripheral processor which calculates the actual ABS parameters. The other processor is a Toshiba signal processor that takes raw analog signals from wheel sensors and converts into data for the Hitachi CPU to use.
The Toshiba chip becomes unstable at low temperatures and wheel speed data fluctuates. As the defect manifests, chip will begin to malfunction at higher and higher temps. This corrupt wheel speed data is sent to the Hitachi CPU causing ABS to activate all of the time. Eventually this will burn out the solenoids in the ABS module.
We have found with these units you have to externally heat the Toshiba chip to nearly 200 degrees F before it begins to function correctly!
When I drive my nissan it makes a popping noise in the front of the vehicle and on the side that I the turn on (left turn- pops on the left side, right turn- pops on the right side). Does anyone know what might be the problem?
drive it for a few minutes and say nothing is wrong. I took it to auto zone for them to put it on the machine no code came up . please help college student