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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • meister4Umeister4U Member Posts: 7
    Here are a series of questions to help detemine if it is the motor or the transmission:
    Does the engine light come on?
    Does this only happen when the motor is warm? No other time.
    Has the transmission and fluids been checked?
    Does the transmission eventually shift into 2nd or third?
    Are you watching the tachometer thru this whole process, Your tach should drop when she shifts gears assuming this is an automatic. 2200 down to 1500 etc.......
    When you step hard on the accelerator, does the transmission kick down into low, cause it should?
    Does the engine light go on and off by itself?
    When was the last time the car had a tune up?
    Do you use high test gas, because sometimes cheap gass may have water in it, and will cause the car to not run to full potential, and bad gas can also clog fuel injectors. Try using injector cleaner periodically to clean out any clogs.
    Lots of people ignore fuel filters, which should be changed periodically. Bad gas can be a major culprit. It can fool you by running ok sometimes and badly others.

    Ty to answer these questions before we go any further. Hopefully this will be of some help. Process of elimination.
  • jf651jf651 Member Posts: 1
    I have a Nissan Maxima 2001 and have 98,000 miles on it. I am planning to change the spark plugs but not sure if I should replace the coils. What's recommended? The guy in the part store said if the car is running ok then you don't have to change them.
  • guuguu Member Posts: 10
    coil should last at least twice that long, spark plugs too, i also have a 2001 but only about 50k miles and all i have changed so far is the spark plug wires (they normally wear out first on injected engines) i have also had to change 2 injectors
  • TtscrewTtscrew Member Posts: 3
    This model year is known for the coil/coils going bad but I would not replace them until you get a service engine soon light on stating the coil/coils are bad. Just make sure you use NGK spark plugs which is the orginial spark plug.
  • nvmaxnvmax Member Posts: 7
    Could be brake issue. Probably brake calipers.
  • nvmaxnvmax Member Posts: 7
    I have a 97 maxima with 146K miles. There was a thumping sound when braking, Mechanic said brakes are in BAD shape and I had to replace all four brake rotors and calipers. This is the first rotor replacement, same for front calipers too. Its a different story with rear calipers, this is is the third time I replacing them. Is this normal? I must confess I did'nt replace brake pads for a long long time, could this have resulted in rotor/caliper damage?

    Mechanic said I need to replace struts and axle but I will delay it another one year. Car runs absolutely fine.
  • scherlingtscherlingt Member Posts: 1
    I checked the fuse on my 2000 Maxima and it was burned out, so I replaced it. That one blew as well. I think it is a short somewhere, but could it be something else? Is there a common issue that I could check?
  • guuguu Member Posts: 10
    mine did it too till i changed the brake pads yesterday
  • poodog13poodog13 Member Posts: 320
    Does anyone know what type of brakes (traditional vs ceramic or other types) are on a '07 Nissan Maxima as OEM? Is there a danger to going with something inferior to OEM (and by danger, I mean physical danger rather than the inability to attain peak performance levels)?

    I had my 07 Max in the shop a year or so ago for a front brake replacement and the shop replaced my fronts with ceramic as they said they were OEM and they were not allowed to go below OEM specs when doing replacements. Now my rears are ready for replacement and I'm looking to be a smarter consumer this time around.
  • maxima06maxima06 Member Posts: 1
    I recently brought my car into a Nissan Dealership for a high idle. They claimed I needed $2000 of work done. I checked with another dealership I had dealt with in the past in the area and they quoted me pricing that was 25% - 35% less on the same work. After discussing this pricing and my past experience with Nissan I was surprised to find out that Dealerships are not franchised and therefore unregulated. Each Dealership can charge what they want. So here is my question. With Cars being computerized my local mechanic keeps saying you need to bring it into the dealership. So it appears the Dealerships have a monopoly on most expensive repairs. However there is no one regulating them and no way to know what repairs should cost? I asked Nissan if they publish what they pay the Dealerships for repairs in warranty so I as the consumer can have an idea what is reasonable and customary. Of course that information is unavailable to the Consumer. What can we do here? I just paid almost $600 for a rear ABS sensor and have no idea if I was ripped off?
  • poodog13poodog13 Member Posts: 320
    Isn't this true with almost every single retail product / service with the EXCEPTION of a new car purchase? I have no idea what it costs my local department store to buy a pair of Dockers from Levi, I have no idea what my local grocery store pays for a case of coke, and I have no idea what my local bar pays for their booze. They are free to charge whatever the market will support.

    Sound to me like you need to either consider a new local mechanic who's invested in the latest technology and training, or perhaps a new vehicle.
  • carktcarkt Member Posts: 1
    We bought this 2001 Maxima from a dealer in Feb 09. Around a month or so back whenever we drive the car after starting it kinda vibrates initially and runs fine after a mile or so.A week back I was just turning my car back from the parking lot when the TCS and SLip lights went on and the car started to vibrate a bit while driving as if a tyre is punctured but it was not.The lights went off next day but the car started vibrating badly, I was told that probably the transmission is not reaching 2 of the 6 cylinders, it was taken to Nissan dealership and they have a bill of $900 for it.
    Does anybody know what could be the problem?
    After readin all these discussions it seems to me we have been charged way too much and for all you know the car may still be vibrating after the repair as I read on other forums this is a known problem with Nissan Maximas.
  • sanjaysdcasanjaysdca Member Posts: 269
    you probably have bad ignition coils...a very common prob in 5th gen max.
    Get it taken care if else you will end up having to change pre-cat too

    go to maxima.org and you can get more info
  • laurislauris Member Posts: 7
    My '99 Maxima SE Air Bag indicator light has been flashing for months. Does this mean either the air bag system has failed, or just a malfunctioning bulb?

    In addition, my TCS and Slip lights came on a few weeks ago including the Service Engine indicator light. My understanding is if both lights are on they cancel out the TCS and Slip functions.

    There are 120,000 miles on the speedometer. Are these malfunctions typical for older Maximas?
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    I have an 01 Maxima. When the airbag light went on, it was indeed a malfunctioning airbag and had to be repaired, so I would get that checked out ASAP. I also had TCS and Slip lights come on, and that meant a failed ABS sensor, and once again, those functions were not working until the sensor was replaced. So you should get both of those checked out. By the way, those two replacements are the only out of ordinary repairs I've had to make so far, so it's not like things are malfunctioning left and right.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • laurislauris Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for your reply, suydam. I'll check into having the airbag repaired. How much did this cost? Curious. Think I can replace the ABS sensor. Besides this, I've replaced 4 out of 6 ignition coils so far. The coils are a persistent problem w/ '99 Maximas. The coil issues started around 90K miles.
  • guuguu Member Posts: 10
    On My 91 Max the master window control on the driver door will not roll up the passenger windows anymore, can anyone confirm and help me locate a relay that would cause only this one symptom?
  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    I had to take it to the dealer, and I think is was around $500 (parts and labor). The passenger air bag module had to be replaced. As to the ABS sensor, both rear wheel sensors were the ones that had to be replaced. The front ones are fine. You can try cleaning off the brake dust first, though. Sometimes that works. I've been fortunate so far, no coil problems.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • allegoricallegoric Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Maxima and looking for a second opinion (Techs here I hope).
    I pulled the code from the CEL and it was 0102 meaning MAF, I installed a NEW one and it still wants to stall when turning or parking, any ideas what to look at next. I have no CEL yet, probably didn't drive far enough since replacing the MAF and clearing the code for a full drive cycle yet?
  • ageous18ageous18 Member Posts: 1
    Hi...I just bought a 1990 nissan maxima se. When I turn the headlights on the dashlights do not come on, tried the dimmer and it didnt help. I checked the fuses under the dash and under the hood. Anybody have any ideas, also the cigarette lighter doesnt work, the clock doesnt come on, speedo lights dont come on. I noticed my tag lights arent on either but havent checked the bulbs yet. Can someone help please?
  • georgios10georgios10 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 Nissan maxima and the engine turns off today on every light and stop sign. Anybody can tell what is going on? I would appreciate it very much. Thank you.
  • allegoricallegoric Member Posts: 2
    It's probably the power steering pressure switch on the firewall, passenger side. I replaced my IAC and MAF before discovering it, I only found ROCKAUTO on EBAY selling them for about $60, but I just discoed mine and it idles perfectly.I have a 95, this problem seems to have many people posting without a clue replacing everything but discovering this "switch". Let me know if I am right I have a big ego!
  • hillbilly1025hillbilly1025 Member Posts: 1
    Hey all, new to this forum and needing help. This is my first Nissan, a 2000 Max w/ 127k. I've had the car two months, bought it for my wife for a beater around town and back and forth to work. It's had the problem since we bought it, we assumed the dealer could figure it out easily, Boy was I wrong.

    OK enough yapping and down to the problem. Sometimes the car will crank and crank but won't hit. Sometimes it starts on the first crank. We cannot make it repeat and nothing seems to trigger it. The dealer first told me it was the starter and for 538 dollars they would fix it. Well I got the starter and changed it myself, wasn't it. put the old one back and got my money back. It left my wife sitting and I had to leave work, so we took it straight to the dealer when I got it going. this time they told me it was the crank sensor and the flywheel was missing teeth. they wanted $1187 for the repair. not happening. got thecar home changed the rear CPS, no change, front CPS no change. While I was under the car I decided to look at the flywheel myself( by the access panel on the bottom of the tranny they said they used), well it hasn't been off.also cleaned the cam sensor

    Does anyone have any ideas or ran into the same problem? Oh and would the key have any effect on the starting, I know it is chipped, but the one we have is pretty beat up and rattles when shaken, I'm thinking the the chip may be loose and relaying the proper info, just a guess

    sorry for the long post, just trying to give as much info as possible. Thanks RM
  • tinamaritinamari Member Posts: 2
    Hi All-

    After reading this forum I am seeing a common denominator with all that I have been experiencing with my 2000 Nissan Maxima (140k). I've had problems with the sensors, the weird noises, the "check engine light" coming on and off as well as other malfunctioning issues. And just last week my car turned off after driving in the rain. Currently, the car is in a shop and I am waiting to hear some kind of report, but the one thing that I was told could be the issue, is that I am having electrical issues. I am frustrated and ready to toss this car (although I still have a car note) and I am nervous to find out how much this is going to cost me!

    Anyone have any ideas on how much this may cost or even what could be the problem, seeing as though these cars have a history with sensor and electrical problems?
  • carrmatcarrmat Member Posts: 1
    Hi Everyone. My car has been making a rattling noise for a couple months and I kept putting it off. My oil change place told me it was the timing chain tensioner. Last weekend I went to get in it and it would start, kept cranking no problem just wouldn't fire. Had it towed to Oil change place, the guy there who is a ASE mechanic said it looked like the timing chain broke and there was potentially some engine damage.

    Had it towed to dealer for further evaluation. They said the timing chain was fine but that it skipped time and the pistons blew into the valves. Long story short, I need a new motor.

    1. Is this possible for the valves to do this?
    2. Why in the sam hell, if this is possible, wouldn't some code be thrown that would tell me this is a potentially serious problem that needs to be checked before the engine completely blows? Or should it have thrown a code?
    3. Any recommendations on getting a used motor?
    4. Is this engine replacement something a good mechanic could handle or should this be done at the outrageously expensive dealer labor fees (ie: special tools, special Nissan training required)?

    Thanks. -Matt
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think a good independent shop can handle this job, no problem.

    They probably know of sources for used engines. Here's one:

    JDM

    Your question about a code for this problem is interesting. Some cars did in fact have warning systems for engine timing disorders (Porsche 928) but with a timing chain, it's a pretty rare occurrence.

    In hindsight, chains do give warnings usually before they break or jump time by making noise.

    I'd take the car to an independent shop and first off, have them verify the huge drop in compression that would indicate bent valves.

    Also, I'd remove the head and inspect the engine internally, if a drop in compression is verified. It may not be necessary to replace the entire engine. A piston can "kiss" a valve and bend it slightly without serious damage to itself sometimes--requiring only a rebuilt cylinder head.

    Visiting Host
  • dribbydribby Member Posts: 1
    ECM HAS PO605 CODE,RUNS BADLY,BUCKS AND EVENTUALLY DIES.START BACK AND IDLES GREAT.TRIED USED PCM,RUNS WORSE.GOT ANY IDEAS.
  • suzyq513suzyq513 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 GLE Nissan Maxima and in the far left back (passenger side) my car is smoking. I took it to the dealer because my engine light was on and the smoking under the hood and they fixed #6 coil (mis-firing) and tune-up. The burning smell is though my transmission has no fluid in it. I remember this because my step-father was a back yard mechanic and I remember the smell. The dealer has told me to bring it back on Monday, August 24th and a test will be run to see what it could be. Just last week I have paid over $800 for repairs and I am afraid they are just trying to rip me off. I am a female and don't have a clue about this. This is why I take my car to the dealer who is the expert. I need some advice on what to do? My hood is open now in my garage because when I drove it back home today it was smoking really bad. I am so afraid that I may be making matters worse by driving it. Can you provide some guidance?
  • calixarenecalixarene Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 maxima with 146,000 mile on it. About one month ago, it suddenly got dead when I tried to turn right at low speed (~20mph). It can run ~15 minutes after I restarted it, but then got dead again. Service Engine light is on and the error code is P0171. Tried to fix it in two mechanics, but both of them can not figure out the problem. Do anyone have the same problem? Thanks for any advice/help.
  • suzyq513suzyq513 Member Posts: 2
    Check Engine Light Code P0171

    System Too Lean - Bank 1

    Description:=20

    How does a P0171 code trigger the check engine light? This code will trigge=
    r the check engine light as follows:

    The adaptive fuel strategy in the vehicle's computer constantly monitors th=
    e fuel delivery system to make sure the engine is running at an optimum air=
    to fuel ratio, which is 14.7:1. The computer adjusts injector pulse width =
    to regulate the amount of fuel going into the engine. The oxygen sensors re=
    lay information to the Powertrain Control Module (computer), informing it o=
    f the oxygen content in the exhaust. This information is translated by the =
    computer, and used to determine if more or less fuel is needed. The compute=
    r will then adjust fuel flow (and possibly other related engine operating c=
    haracteristics), to keep the correct air fuel mixture. This loop continues =
    as long as the engine is running. Please refer to our article Oxygen Sensor=
    Code Diagnosis for more info on this system. A P0171 check engine light co=
    de is set when the computer has reached a rich calibration limit and can no=
    t add enough fuel to maintain the correct mixture.=20
    Possible Causes:=20
    Refer to our Oxygen Sensor Code Diagnosis article for a list of all possibl=
    e causes. The following is an overview of P0171 check engine light code pos=
    sible causes.

    Fuel System:

    Leaking or faulty fuel pressure regulator
    Plugged or dirty fuel filter or lines
    Fuel pump weak or defective check valve
    Injectors leaking or faulty
    Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel
    Leaking EVAP system components
    Faulty FRP (Fuel Rail Pressure Sensor)

    Air Intake System

    Vacuum leaks
    Contaminated, damaged or faulty Mass Air Flow sensor
    PCV valve leak or stuck open
    Air induction turbulance caused by wrong filter
    Oil dipstick not seated
    Air leaks after the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
    Oil coated aftermarket air filter

    Exhaust System

    Any exhaust leak before or near the oxygen sensors

    EGR System

    Vacuum line disconnected from EGR System Module (ESM)
    EGR valve, tube or gasket leak
    EGR vacuum regulator valve leaking

    Secondary Air Injection System

    Mechanically stuck secondary air injection valve

    Diagnostic Help:=20

    A very thorough discussion of how to approach and repair a P0171 check engi=
    ne light code can be found here. If you need further assistance let us know=
    . Please be sure to stop back in and visit some of our other very useful si=
    te features to lear more about your car's emissions system!
    =A0
    Reference:=A0 http://www.engine-light-help.com/P0171-check-engine-light.htm=
    l

    Thanks,
    Suzanne V. Thompson
  • gbob12gbob12 Member Posts: 2
    hello, new to the forum. i have a 95 maxima with 120,000 miles. i was driving to work and all of a suddden my car just jumped to the right and my steering wheel was not straight anymore. it will track down the road straight when letting go of the wheel. turn the wheel left and right and the steering wheel be straight again. drive some more and it will jump to the right again.feels like power steering problem.
  • majnolomajnolo Member Posts: 2
    Hi there
    well - sounds like the crazy problem I have with my 95. Get a load of this. Recent news (been chasing this starting problem for 2 years, I can change the started in 45 minutes - done 3): the problem, according to 2 dealers who knew of it, is a corrosion problem apparently between the transmission and the block. Solution is to take off the transmission, clean the surfaces, apply new dielectric grease, and reinstall. Sounds so crazy that I could not believe it but 2 dealers confirmed. The other 2 I called never heard of it. I have ground strapping in my hand that I will try this weekend, but have low confidence it will work. Recommend you call around and see if anyone can confirm this... Hope this helps. I too replaced crank angle sensor, cam angle sensor, knock sensor... Starters eventually died and replaced too... Good luck and please let me know what happens.
  • majnolomajnolo Member Posts: 2
    Hello out there. Been chasing a starting problem for 2 years on my 95 Maxima with 185k miles and some rust: car cranks OK (not the starter, not the battery, not the teeth on the flywheel), kicks back and then continues to crank. Eventually will start but painful. Killed 3 starters along the way. Check engine light is on. CHanged the knock sensor, the crank angle sensors, the cam angle sensor. Nothing. I went to sell the car and someone told me the solution (which I cannot believe but 2 dealers confirmed - 2 others said never heard of this): problem is corrosion between (!?!?!) the transmission and the block, causing grounding problems and wants to try to make the engine turn backwards during starting. Ground straps apparently do not work (?!?!?!). Solution is $900 to remove the transmission (?!??!), clean, and reinstall. I cannot believe this - can anyone out there confirm or let me know of an easier way to fix this?
    THANK YOU
  • easypareasypar Member Posts: 191
    I have an '03 with 75,000 miles, never any trouble with it. I'm planning on keeping a couple of more years and was wondering about the serpentine belt. My last few "working" cars the belts lasted about 150K miles, or I sold them with the original still in place. But now that I don't work I don't put on the miles so I'm wondering what anyone thinks about replacing it.

    It's difficult to see it but what I can see looks OK, also in my experience these don't just "go" like the older accessory belts. Since I occassionally take 300-400 mile trips I'd hate to have to replace it on the side of the road. Any thoughts on this, or tell me how long yours have lasted.

    Also, when I had my oil changed last week (Wal-Mart, they now do an automatic battery "check") the little paper they handed me said the battery was "low". I put in an Interstate 75 month battery almost 3 years ago because I was going to be spending the rest of the winter in CO and felt it was a good preventive measure.

    Thanks for any input.

    fa
  • guuguu Member Posts: 10
    Isn't the factory recommended interval 50k miles? Did you check the grooved side for cracks and or missing pieces? I Don't mind replacing them on the side of the road unless its the weather is bad.

    Did you check the fluid level of the battery? Do you keep it filled? If the cells get dry the dry part is dead until it get reconditioned.
  • woodstock2woodstock2 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 96 Maxima with about 175,000 miles on it. The problem i have is the will lock up when i brake too quickly. Like a stop light, or trying to avoid transmission an accident. Sometimes at a light it will drop back into gear, but if i'm at a stop sign, or middle of the road i have to give a little gas to engage. And when i say "locks up" my meaning is it acts like it is in neutral when i'm in drive. I have not done anything to it yet. Would like to know where to start looking for the problem.
  • tra9105tra9105 Member Posts: 6
    Hi...I was thinking about buying a 2002 Maxima SE with 167,000 miles...Do maximas of this year typically run past the 200,000 mile mark? and are there any known problems to look for with this model year?
  • lauren15lauren15 Member Posts: 10
    My car is a 2001 <Maxima and have a similar problem; I have about 97,000 miles on my car. It does it quite randomly - typically only when I've been driving it the highway at sah 70mph or so, and then exit highway and go into far lower speeds.

    I'll keep watching this list but if you find out anything, please do let me know.

    I'd hate to replace the transmission if that's not the problem.
  • 15mike15mike Member Posts: 3
    This is an automatic. It shifts normally the rest of the gears. Th efaster I accelerate, the harder it shifts. Any Suggestions?
  • easypareasypar Member Posts: 191
    Pegausus17 I have an 03 as well and I'm getting a noise that's not struts or anything else steering or suspension. Do you recall what exactly on the brake hardware was causing this? The guys that did the brakes on my wife's car also does steering suspension so I may just go have him put it on the lift.

    Thanks in advance.

    easypar
  • pegasus17pegasus17 Member Posts: 536
    REF: 4044
    On my 03 Max, it was the brake hardware (aka pad retaining clips) that was replaced. I also got new rotors (NAPA Ultra) so had that done at the same time. Noise is gone but it could have been a problem with any of those parts (pad, rotor, clip). Let me know what yours turns out to be...good luck
  • easypareasypar Member Posts: 191
    REF4045.

    It was kind of odd, I had three potential buyers look at my car and two of them made offers but both of them commented about the "thunking and clunking" from the front end. One specifically mentioneda major street nearby that has many of the "tar filled joint repairs". Oddly enough both of them made offers but one made his low enough to more than pay for struts because he was sure it was struts.

    I waited until after 10:00 PM and drove around, no radio or other distractions and even shut off the engine and coasted a bit. I'm a bit hard of hearing and the only thing that I noticed out of the ordinary (I've owned this unit since it was 4 months old) sounded more "sheet metal" than solid like a strut problem.

    Someone on here or another site had mentioned that the rubber bumpers for the hood had needed to be backed out (made taller) so I tried that, and even put a cabinet door "button" on each of them. The noise that I had heard went away. I told the buyer I would have it checked out though before I countered his offer.

    I went to a very reputable local brake steering and suspension (not a national chain, a local family with a long reputation in our (50,000 population) town. Told him everything and he drove it for 10-15 minutes and put it on the lift. He said he heard no noise, but then he had no experience with the former condition. He said the only thing on the struts was that one of the boots was a bit torn but he thought the mileage was a bit on the low side for that make and model. He also pointed out (as I had) that the stiffer suspension and lower profile tires on this would feel much different to someone more used to a more spongy sedan.

    Thanks for your help on this. I'll see if this guy really wants it
  • aarchaarch Member Posts: 1
    Belive it or not I took my Max in today to get a starter installed,grone noise when you strt car mostly in cold,anyway these are the same code my mechanic came up with,po115 and 0325 knock sensor and the coolant sensor,the light came on after I added fuel injector cleaner...hmmm,codes were erased and we will wait and see ,mech said no big issue as longas 24 mg is happening,this little car has guts.I also am intrested to see if this also could be the mass flow sensor or the injector cleaner burns hotter than normal thus alarming the cpu.
  • bozo8bozo8 Member Posts: 1
    my 1996 maxima speedometer works on and off
  • jbrysonjbryson Member Posts: 1
    Left and right brake lights fail. Rear window brake light works fine.

    Both lights replaced. Fuse checked and good.

    Haynes Repair manual schematic shows all three lights converge at the "stop and tail lamp unit". I would test there if knew where it was located and what it looked like.
  • farifari Member Posts: 2
    Dear YTIM,
    Were you able to find out the cause of the codes? I have the same problem. It would be appreciated if you could share the solution with me. You can contact me at farirafati@yahoo.com
    Thanks
  • farifari Member Posts: 2
    Dear YTIM,
    Were you able to find out the cause of the codes (message #3588)? I have the same problem. It would be appreciated if you could share the solution with me. You can contact me at farirafati@yahoo.com
    Thanks
  • spikeia89spikeia89 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2006 Maxima SL. On a recent highway drive, an 18-wheeler kicked up a
    tire tread that hit the bottom of the front bumper and went under the car making a lot of noise. It cracked the front bumper and tore up the plastic shield under the
    engine as it went by. Any one know what this plastic piece under the engine is called and where I might find one at a reasonable price? I don't mind doing the work myself, just don't know what to ask for.
  • gtwgtw Member Posts: 46
    I call it a gravel guard. it keeps water and rocks off the belts. look at www.car-part.com
  • alexstorealexstore Member Posts: 264
    for about $35 you can get it form a dealer and its called skid plate
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