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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • cemtagcemtag Member Posts: 2
    I own 90 maxima that has been a great car (170k). Recent problems have arose that have all been fixed except two. 1st, car is hard to start when cold and dies later when driving with no warning. Both problems intermittent. Regarding the starting, if the car does not start immediately after turning the key, it isn't going to start on that try. After numerous trys (usually about 5) it starts and runs normally. While driving it runs perfectly except sometimes it will die with out any warning. Usually when at idle or near idle also when this happens the RPM gauge goes kind of crazy. Usually when I notice this the RPM gauge is near 0 then will usually bounce like it is trying to start with no accompanying engine noise or acceleration. The gauge appears to just do its own thing for a little bit. That may be unrelated but thought I would throw that in. I recently changed the timing belt(because it was time), the temp control sensor, the spark plugs, the distributor cap, rotor, and coil. All items except coil and timing belt were replaced to fix studdering when accelerating and the studdering stopped but now have this problem(I believe this problem was there all along just not noticed due to severe studdering always happening). Have tried to diagnose with ECU red and green lights but it shows all normal. Dealer and other mech unable to find problem so far. Since I have done some mech work in the past it sure seems to me like an ignition problem due to the rapid way it dies coupled with the fact that it drives normally otherwise. Any suggestions? My local parts guy had similar problem with 95 nissan pickup and he was replacing the crack angle sensor and the power module. No word yet if that fixed it for him.
  • viajerosviajeros Member Posts: 2
    I own 2000 maxima se automatic
    The problem is first to second gear slip or delay
    i know there is some bulletins ntb00039a but this bulletin did'nt resolv the problem.

    Appreciate any help!
  • lucy1213lucy1213 Member Posts: 18
    The paint problems on the Maxima are well known.

    To read more about it, go to

    http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=25984


    It seems like every color is problematic, not just the metallics.


    Galvinjjr, before you put your money down on the car, check out the web site above. It's a sad situation because the Maxima is such a great ride, but this paint problem is hard to overlook, esp. when considering resale value when you're ready to trade it in.


    I have a 2001 GXE in sterling mist and I have been "connecting the dots" since the third week that I owned the car. It's heartbreaking.

  • niceguyniceguy Member Posts: 20
    Hi,

    I'd like to suggest you replacing the fuel pump. Although, it fixed my problem on my other car (not Nissan), I think it's worth a try. The fuel pump doesn't cost much and easy to replace.

    Hope you get your car fix before the winter :)
  • cemtagcemtag Member Posts: 2
    Since I didn't get any responses for a while I assumed maybe I had gotten too technical. Anyway, I have an update. Your fuel pump idea was on track although they are expensive to me ($299), I will gladly change it if necessary. I want to the local dealer (3rd time) and talked with the lead mech. He suggested to diagnosis the problem by placing a fuel gauge in line to check fuel pressure and leave it there until the problem happened again. Then when it happens without doing anything else get out open the hood and check the gauge for proper pressure (somewhere around 35-40) I did that today and to my amazement the car started acting up within 5 minutes after putting it in while still in the garage and the fuel gage was on 0. (normal reading before) So I tried to further diagnosis wiring/ fuel relay / fuel pump. Mech told me the fuel pumps hardly ever fail and that it was probably something besides that. My multimeter was not up to the job so after reading in my maint book I decided to buy fuel relay and fuel pump. They would have to order fuel pump but had fuel relay in stock so I took the relay ($15) and put it in. Decided to wait and see what happens over the next few days. Learned a lot so far and hope I have it fixed with this. On a strange note, as I mentioned before the tach goes crazy when this happens well this time when I tried to start it the tach went berserk again. While the car is not running it is bouncing from 0 to 1 thousand erratically. This worries me that maybe I have an ignition type signal that is shutting off the fuel pump and causing this tach problem. I hope I am wrong.
  • RichIITFRichIITF Member Posts: 17
    I have a 2001 Nissan Maxima. No big problems to complain about except this awful rotten egg smell coming from the exhaust. I was told by a friend that the smell is from the detergents in the gasoline. So, I tried 3 different gasoline stations(Exxon, Shell, and Chevron) and I still notice the same problem. Is this an inherent problem with the Maxima or is it really the gas?
  • bianca2bianca2 Member Posts: 78
    Rich, do you live in the Northeast? Many, if not most, brands of gas change their formula in the northeast to a "winter" blend as of Nov. 1. People were complaining about this last year. It goes away around the 1st of April when they change back again. I live in Virginia, have not had ANY problems with the sulphur type smell.

    Re paint problems - I have the Satin Blue. I have a few tiny "dots" of paint chips on the lower bumper, but none at all on the rest of the car. Looks great.
  • frabbitfrabbit Member Posts: 4
    i have the satin blue and have not had problems either (so far). i've had the car since February 2001.
  • rdl40rdl40 Member Posts: 60
    I'm in the market for a new vehicle and the Maxima is one of those vehicles. I'm currently driving a '93 Taurus SHO manual 5-speed (170k miles) it's been a good car but time to move into something newer.

    I did drive the Maxima "02 6-speed, this car is really nice and one of the few 4 door sedans with a manual gear box. After reading some of your threads, I'm concerned about the Nissans paint related problems. Should I still buythis car?
    As a novice to the Nissan line up, are their any other issues I should know about this car? (reliability, resale, safety etc.)

    Only other car in the running is the Chrysler 300M special (with no available man. gearbox).

    Also, If I want to upgrade to 18" wheels and tires what size options do I have?

    thanks, ron
  • cmkmcmkm Member Posts: 3
    I have had my '00 Maxima SE 5 speed for almost 3 months now and the problem I've experienced more and more is that in 2nd gear while excelerating, the car `pings' alot there is a slight stuter during accelaration. Has anyone else noticed this or have suggestions. I've been almost always using 93 Octane and the problem wasn't evident when I bought the vehicle.
    Thanks!
  • beavaniiibeavaniii Member Posts: 1
    I haven't had any paint problems with my 2000 Maxima SE in Sterling Mist. The car is now 2 1/2 years old with 42,000 miles and has been kept outdoors for the last year without a problem. The paint still looks great except for normal bug/tar on the front bummer.

    I've noticed my trunk open on it's own about 4 times since I bought the car, but it's very random. I don't know what causes it, but it really doesn't concern me. The trunk won't pop by simply pushing/pulling on it, so I'm not going to worry about it.

    I average 25 MPG in mostly highway driving with some city driving.

    P.S. I've yet to run into any type of problem, the car just requires normal maintenance. Also, since I got an early model it was built in Japan, I believe all Maxima's are now made in the US (that are sold in the US).
  • vanbo57vanbo57 Member Posts: 46
    OK. So it seems that all of us who drive an '01 or '02 automatic Maxima experience a bit of a lag between first and second gears. It seems to be inherent to the car. My question is, will that affect the longevity / future performance of the car?? I read a post here that the TSBs fix doesn't fix it and aparently the TSB was only for the '00 units. I have the "lag" in my '01 SE. It does seem to lose some power between 1st & 2nd gears. Other than that, I like the way it downshifts to pass at the slightest "blip" of the throtle, from 4th to third or from 3rd to 2nd. So, what do you all think? Oh yeah - do the '02 Maximas do that also??
  • borisgudonovborisgudonov Member Posts: 36
    Hello people. I wrote a few months ago about a whiny-buzz kinda sound going on when the temperature gets cool, somewhere's about the 40's or 50's. I've still never figured out where the sound is coming from. Some have said it could be thermal expansion and contraction of some belts. Some say wind noise. Who knows? Not me. I got the free diagnostic in October and the car has a clean bill of health. Now I'm hearing another noise. It coincides with wheel speed. I know It's independent of engine speed because when I put the car in neutral I can hear it whining down as the car slows. I've coasted along at 5 or 10 mph and not pressed the brakes or anything and I still hear it. The sound wanes somewhat like a police siren when the car moves around 5 or 10 mph. The whine is something like "waa oww waa oww" and I think it corresponds to each revolution of the wheels. It seems that "waa oww" is one revolution. At 5 or 10 waa oww waa oww happens every...hmmm...every half second or so. So, I hear "waa oww waa oww waa oww waa oww" every second. At around 30 or 40 the sound is pretty much a single pitch constant whine. The sound is not very loud. Matter of fact I've had ample opportunity to listen analytically lately mainly because I took the radio out. (I was hearing it long before that though). Has anyone experienced this? Another thing: I do need new brakes. Could that really have anything to do with it? I'm gonna get them tomorrow anyway though. If you like, send email to:

    AMADEUS@uab.edu

    Thanks.
  • borisgudonovborisgudonov Member Posts: 36
    For the benefit of anyone that cares or may have experienced the aforementioned noise, it's a rubber seal on the axle of the front right wheel. It got dried out somehow and was squeaking against the steel. It got dried out somehow. Dealer mechanic says it's a harmless noise. Nissan makes them really tight because the pathfinder had been getting water in there so they tightened up this part on all nissans. That's what the mechanic said. Man I hope he's right.
  • mam8rmam8r Member Posts: 1
    I recently scratched the rear bumper on my 2001 maxima and it's just killing me. seeing that the bumpers are plastic is making me wonder if would it be better to get the bumper replaced even though there was no serious damage to it, or would it be possible to get it touched up at a body shop.
  • likwidlikwid Member Posts: 1
    I do not know where to start. I have read over many of the posts and I have the same problems and more.
    1) I have replaced the dash do to rattling
    2) I have replaced the BOSE radio, it did heat up a lot and over time I could here the disk skipping thru the speakers. Once it started, you could not keep your mind off the skip/scratch.
    3) The driver window squeaks when closing
    4) The driver window will some time close on AUTO but once it closes, it re-opens 1/4 of the way down.
    5) There is rust on the back passenger door, this is on the little pc of metal that separates the window that opens/closes and the permanent little window.
    6) I have changed coil # 5 twice and coil #4 once in the last 7 months. It takes a week to get my app. at the dealer, therefore , the car drives like a deasile in the mean time.
    7) there is rust on the bumper where the trunk scrubs when it shuts
    8) when accelerating in 2nd and 3rd ( standard ) the car looses power between 3000 and 4000 RPM.
    9) try to find a set of non-OEM tires that fit on the 17" rim. There is only three to four choices for a high performance tire that is not $400/ea.
    10) the leather on the drivers side has cracked in many places.

    I guess this sums it up for now. I love the Maxima, however, I need to replace this for a new model. So far the dealer is not helping me any. Am I the only one with so many disapointments?
    PS : my friend has the 99 model and he had to replace the coil as well...
  • technogtechnog Member Posts: 2
    Quite a lot was fixed after the accident. Mainly bodywork and the radiator of this 99 Maxima.
    After all was said and done, the remotes for the keys dont work at all.
    The BEWILDERING thing is that the nissan dealer that my body shop took it to told us that the key fobs are not really for a maxima at all and they cannot be re-programmed ! They even hinted that the fobs could be for an altima !!!
    I tried to explain that I am the original owner of the Maxima since 1999 and that I never had a problem before the accident. The dealer's mechanic insisted that the remotes were not programmable anymore and that I would have to buy new ones.

    Even if the fob was damaged during the accident, the second fob was safe at home !!! How the hell could the second one be wrong/problematic ?
    Are these nissan guys on dope ??

    QUESTION: Could some piece of the alarm (computer/transmitter/receiver) that has been put into the car after the accident be a wrong part ? This is the only thing that I can think of.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    -going remotely insane
  • gtspecgtspec Member Posts: 55
    My 2002 SE has got 960 miles now, and so far have not experience any major problem! The one small thing that bothers me is when it's in idling stage (put in DRIVE), the RPM is only in 500 and I can feel vibrations through the steering wheel! Is this normal? I only used 93 octane fuel. I will get my first oil change next week, then I can really feel the 255 HP engine, haha... cann't wait!

    Does any one know what's the 0-60 MPH time on the 2002 MAXIMA?

    beavaniii - My 2002 SE is still "Made in Japan". All the maxima are still made in Japan, however, the Altima is made in the US : )
  • mikesimmonsmikesimmons Member Posts: 11
    I have the same intermittent A/C problem with my '84 300ZX. It is caused by an open circuit for the outside air temp sensor. When the circuit opens, the air conditioning control thinks that it is below 32 degrees outside and will not allow the compressor to engage. Due to the age of the car (and my lack of serious motivation) I worked around the problem. As a diagnostic, I attached wires to the temp sensor input on the A/C control unit and brought the wires out to the front of the console. When I need the A/C to work I short the wires with a wire nut and the A/C unit thinks that it is 118 outside. Everything then works.

    I probably have an intermittent temp sensor but it is a little to difficult to justify going after it just now.

    If your car has an outside temp reading, check it next time the A/C fails. If it reads below 32 when it is warm outside, I would suggest replacing the sensor.
  • bockleebocklee Member Posts: 4
    My mom has a Maxima and has had it in the for repair three times. Her doors automatically lock when she shuts them. She can't get out of the car if she doesn't have her keys in her hand. Has anyone heard of this problem with the Maximas? Her model is a 2000. Thanks!!!!
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    Bocklee - your door locks are not functioning properly. I have not heard of that happening before, check the remote for a short or something.

    We just had our "check engine" light come on and it was for a oxygen sensor - at only 11 months and 12k miles. Hope this isn't signs of things to come!

    DD
  • kappaman1kappaman1 Member Posts: 18
    I drive a '91 maxima SE that I bought new. It has 183k and runs great. Replaced clutch several months ago. No other major problems ( keep my fingers crossed). This is a great car. Bought a new '95 maxima that gave me all sorts of problems i.e., new 02 sensor, starter. If only the '95 was half as good as the my '91. The 02s look great.
  • flyinlowflyinlow Member Posts: 62
    CMKM: I have a 2000 Max SE 5 speed which recently began pinging intermittently. Like yours, it was usually in 2nd gear. The dealer said there is a bulletin for this, in which ALL 6 ignition coils are replaced. The stated reason, which sounds bogus to me, is an intermittent misfire which can't be traced to a particular cylinder, so they replace all 6. Since they replaced 'em, the pinging is gone and the engine is running great again. Only problem was that it took nearly 3 weeks for them to get the parts and do the work; seems like if this is a bulletin-worthy problem they ought to have the parts in the US already!
  • stermenstermen Member Posts: 10
    This is a response to #404 Moonroof acting up by flyinlow Oct 14, 2001 (04:49 pm)
    I know this is old but I have not been here in a while. I had the same problem with my 01 SE. The dealer replaced the motor. When it first happened, I disconnected the battery and that reset it. But it kept happening. The dealer fixed it in June and I haven't had a problem with it since.
  • uricuric Member Posts: 1
    Did not have any major problems with my Maxima 95 till after the extended warranty expired (interesting coincidence...). first the starter died 2 weeks after warranty turned ti a pumpkin then within a few days the infanous rear O2 sensor quit on me. Both are not expected to last forever but quitting after 6 years makes me suspect that Nissan may be cutting corners in parts they buy. Nisan still seems to be a good bang for the buck. but one has to build into the price a good extended warranty and selling it before that warranty expires (as I would assume that Nissan would have cut expences even more, between 95 and now....!!!). Just my experience.
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    What the heck? Your O2 sensor lasted 6 years. I believe they are listed as a normal maintence item (depending on the service manual of course) at 60K. That is a part that is both a real blessing in reduced pollution and a curse because they can make an engine very fussy.

    The Starter is a bummer, but when mine have gone, they haven't been that expensive.
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    I wonder about the O2 sensor. My last vehicle (a Shadow of all things) it lasted until I replaced it out of guilt at 12 years and 142,000. And no problems passing emissions. New one made no difference, it wasn't the problem a fuel injector was.

    This new '00 max had one fail 10 months into its life. I'm wondering if they are getting too hot or something? Why is the rear sensor notorious?

    Thanks,
    DD
  • cobalt416cobalt416 Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2001 3 months ago and I have already took it back to the dealership twice. It was hard to start, had slow turn over and the problem seemed to surface whenever it was cold out (around 32 or zero celcius). Everytime I took it back, they said the computer could not find anything wrong. Of course, they started it right away and they said the computer did not detect even a single misfire. Same thing happened again tonite, and I pumped the pedal once like they suggested in the manual for cold start, and it started right away. Anyone out there has the same problem ? Please share how you fix it or get around it, thanks. Hank
  • oehrleinoehrlein Member Posts: 30
    I now have a 02 Max but owned a 00 Max. My 00 had the cold weather starting problem too (02 does not). When the outside temp was at least 30 or so degrees F my Max would start ok but if I put it in drive or reverse right after starting it would hesitate or die out. I learned to let it idle a minute or two then drive away. Saying all that, I'm almost positive there's a Nissan Technical Service Bulletin (NTSB) for this. Maybe one of the Edmunds Max owners can provide you the NTSB number or check out the NHTSA website. To have this fixed I'd recommend that the dealer keep your car over night this winter. Good luck.
    Semper Fi!
  • chilly1chilly1 Member Posts: 9
    am having a very interesting problem.

    I have 2000 SE 20th aniv. with under 5000 miles.

    When I took the car in for it's first service at 3750 I got a call saying the air filter needed to be changed. Huh? I asked them to keep the filter for me to look at.

    When I got back to the dealer the air filter had a bunch of oil blow by on it. It had not soaked through to the other side, but it did get to the bottom of the folds. It was very localized toward the bottom left of the filter in about a 3 inch circle. After seeing how the filter is placed in the car it lines up very well with air flow.

    Anyways, when I told them that if the oil on the filter was cause for it to be changed at 3750 then there was a bigger problem, and the car needed a full diagnostic. Well all of sudden I got themn back tracking. They bring out a different mechanic to look at it (supposedly their Nissan expert). He goes on to say. It's not a problem the air filter should not have been changed and that what we were seeing is "normal". I didn't argue then since they didn't charge me for the filter, but I am very skeptical that it is "normal".

    So I have now put another 600-800 miles on the car and I am noticing the same thing. An oil circle is starting to develop in the same place on the brand new oil filter. I have never seen this on my other cars at all.

    My first thought was maybe they had overfilled the oil which was causing the blowby. However I checked the oil and it is slight below the fill line, right were it should be. I have not used synthetics so I don't think that is the cause of the blowby either.

    If anyone can verify that this is "normal" or not I would really appreciate it. I want to go back at my next service much more informed. If no one else is seeing this, I will ask them to call the tech line and run a full diagnostics. I am very worried that this is going to cause a big issue as I get more miles on the car.

    Other than this the car runs beautifully.

    Thanks for you help in advance and sorry about the long post. Just thought I should provide as much info as possible.
  • gslevegsleve Member Posts: 183
    check the PCV valve, see if it needs to be replaced could be defective, however I would have them do a full diagnostic to investigate why this is an issue I own a 98 have never experienced this problem with this car niether others I've owned over the years, yet have heard that the PVC valve was the culprit particularly with car older and quite a few miles on them. However to answer the heart of the question NO this is NOT NORMAL
  • obiwankenobi1obiwankenobi1 Member Posts: 290
    Finally experienced this problem this weekend. I was going through a highway corner (posted at 50 mph) at 80 and hit a bump in the freeway.

    My goodness! The whole back end came off the ground! It caught the ground again but it was not a real pleasant experience! But hey, if that is the only bad thing that has happened, then no big deal. An IRS would make the car perfect.

    Other than that, my 02 Maxima SE has been an absolutely "flawless" vehicle for the first 5,800 miles.
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    I just changed our '00's air filter at 12,000 miles and it had more oil on it than I would have expected, but not all in one area like you described. I use Mobil 1 10-30 and wife and I drive pretty geezerly most of the time and only occassionally get on it. I would be curious if others have oily air filters. I can post a picture of my filter if I figured out how to do it easily. I have read the faq on it and its not simple.

    S
  • gtspecgtspec Member Posts: 55
    After getting my first oil change on my 2002 SE (3100 miles) I finally get a chance to test the performance of this 255HP engine. WOW! It is FAST!

    Has any 2002 Maxima owner notice some "slight vibration" on the steering wheel when the car is in "D" (Drive) and at idling speed (500~600 RPM)??? I don't know if this slight vibration on the steering wheel is normal consider that it's a brand new car. I only used premium gas (as suggested on the manual). Any feedback is greatly appreciated!
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    I had that recently with only 3,000 on the air filter. PCV valve was bad. There may be other reasons such as an Oxygen sensor, or timing. But this one is a 5 buck fix.
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    Well, we did have a bad o2 sensor in November. But it was only out a few days and I'm not getting how that would affect the air filter. Blow-by could come past the rings, load up the crankcase with pressure and force oil out the pcv valve under harsh driving, but as I indicated, I'm not a hard driver and only get into it merging on the highway a few times a week. I also had a dodge turbo motor previously with Mobil 1, and if a motor would have blow-by, you would think it was the motor that had 12psi of boost and was driven when I was younger.

    I'll check the PCV filter, that should be easy.

    DD
  • vanbo57vanbo57 Member Posts: 46
    I have read here in the past of the paint issue (ie easy chipping). Well, it is true. My Gray lustre '01 SE has 4700 miles (mixed driving) and I have 5 quite noticable chips on the hood not to mention a couple on the drivers side rear door, (not dings, CHIPS). Quite distressing as I have never had a car chip up so incredibly fast. This is really happening fast - really fast. Not good. I believe that the only thing that I can do is try not to follow other cars to close and try to keep the car waxed but, I am not optimistic about this. It WILL affect the resale down the road I believe. It is a shame because this is such a great car otherwise. Nothing can be done I suppose. I will show the dealer when I go for my second "service) in a couple of weeks however I doubt that will do any good. By the way, why does the dealer service say that they "set timing" ("service level 2") at 7500 miles? It is probably just part of the $160 rip off when all that is really needed is the oil change and rotate tires. Thanks.
  • al57al57 Member Posts: 67
    i have read on previous posts about the changing of a tcm module to remedy a sloppy 1st to 2nd shift on medium throttle. car has only 7800 miles so went to the dealer and he said it was normal--they all do that..forgot to bring nissan tsb paper showing the problem and remedy..said he would call nissan and get some info..i can't be the first complaint...sales manager came out and said drive the car with overdrive button out since overdrive is really in effect at high speeds and the shifting will be more positive..after leaving dealer with od button out the car seems to shift about the same and about 40 miles per hour the car feels like its holding back like its looking for overdrive..the manual says nothing about driving the car without od until you reach a certain speed and then click the button..any info????
  • fourwd1fourwd1 Member Posts: 11
    Normally I get gradually warmer air as the system heats up. Suddenly I can not get hot air through the ventilation system for maybe 25 min, even though the temp gauge shows normal operating temp after say 5 min. It blows cold air even when the coolant is hot, I can feel the hose in the engine compartment feeding the heater core is hot, the vacum controlled valve is in the 'heat' position (in fact it seems to always be in this position). Yet I have cold air until some point, when something unknown occurs and I get hot air.

    The motor that changes where the air exits seems to be doing it's thing, I can see the linkages moving as I push the buttons for Floor, Bi-Level, etc. I know there is a flap or door that covers the heater core to prevent air flow, but it is hidden so I can not see if it changes state. And if it is that door, what could be controlling it and retarding it's opening for so long?

    Any ideas? it's making for a cold drive to work until I'm halfway there.

    Oh, and once it is functioning properly it seems to be OK if it's parked for a while. I can get warm then increasingly hotter air as it comes back up to full operating temp.
  • obiwankenobi1obiwankenobi1 Member Posts: 290
    I have an 02 SE and the steering wheel does NOT vibrate at idle. Nice and smooth, this car! :)
  • dirkdaddydirkdaddy Member Posts: 313
    I can tell ya my shadetree mechanic diagnosis -

    You must have a temp door stuck or something obstructed. Maybe a partial vac leak or something.

    If the hose is hot, hot coolant is circulating, yer core is probably hot, That leaves one thing. its something to do with yer climate controls.

    A vac tester can be used to test the system, I'd guess your vac motor to one of the doors is leaking and hardly works. They are soft rubber inside and do fail, I replaced on my '95 Ram, it was $30+ for something that weighed 1/2 ounce or something like that.

    Good luck
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    If this is unusual, check the coolant levels. Add if needed, and then check again in a week.

    I have another car that looses fluid rapidly into the resevoir. When it gets to a certain point, the heater will not work. simply moving the fluid from the tank back into the radiator allows it to heat correctly.

    I now check it's levels monthly.
  • cgmax2kcgmax2k Member Posts: 27
    MY 2000 SE HAS 27K ON IT AND I JUST TOOK IT IN FOR SERVICE TO FIND OUT WHY MY SERVICE ENGINE LIGHT WAS ON FOR THE FOURTH TIME. THE FIRST TIME THE DEALER "RESET" THE LIGHT AND THE SECOND AND THIRD TIME THE LIGHT WENT OFF BEFORE I HAD THE CHANCE TO BRING IT IN. THIS TIME I TOOK IT TO A DIFFERENT DEALER AND TURNS OUT THAT THE COILS WERE BAD. THE CAR ALSO RAN A LITTLE ROUGH ALMOST AS IF IT WERE RUNNING ON 5 CYLINDERS SO THIS SHOULD TAKE CARE OF BOTH PROBLEMS.
  • cgmax2kcgmax2k Member Posts: 27
    Hi,

    I have a question. I took my car in for service yesterday for the service engine light which they fixed (coils) but they could not find or hear the noise that I hear from the front end, maybe the snow had something to do with it. Anyway, I hear a constant squeek, not to loud, as the car goes over small bumps front the front end, almost as if it needed to be greased. I can replicate this squeek which can be heard very clear when closing the front doors!! It was to cold yesterday so whatever it is was probably frozen/had water or snow and the dealer did not hear anything. The dealer said he checked the front end and everything looked ok but the noise was still there today. When I was bringing home the car yesterday I didnt hear it. He did say to stop by one day when the weather was better to see if they can figure it out. Has anyone had this problem? Again, the noise can be heard rather easily with the radio off and again when closing either front door. Any ideas??
  • cgmax2kcgmax2k Member Posts: 27
    Hi,

    I have a question. I took my car in for service yesterday for the service engine light which they fixed (coils) but they could not find or hear the noise that I hear from the front end, maybe the snow had something to do with it. Anyway, I hear a constant squeak, not to loud, as the car goes over small bumps front the front end, almost as if it needed to be greased. I can replicate this squeak which can be heard very clear when closing the front doors!! It was to cold yesterday so whatever it is was probably frozen/had water or snow and the dealer did not hear anything. The dealer said he checked the front end and everything looked ok but the noise was still there today. When I was bringing home the car yesterday I didnt hear it. He did say to stop by one day when the weather was better to see if they can figure it out. Has anyone had this problem? Again, the noise can be heard rather easily with the radio off and again when closing either front door. Any ideas??
  • gerapaugerapau Member Posts: 211
    Anyone have a copy of this TSB that they could put up or email me? I am having the problem that has been discussed here (some pinging and hesitation in 2nd and 3rd gear on a manual) but my dealership (in Canada) does not have access to the US TSBs. He would like to see it to see if he can help me but can not get access to it through Nissan Canada. Any help would be appreciated.

    Paul
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    is air cond the same as a maxima?

    one thing I do not like is that the ac defaults to outside air every time you start the car, that is in real hot weather, if you want the "inside air" to always be on (no outside air) you have to push the recirc button every time you start the car

    any way to stop that, that is always have it on recirc? my 94 camry has a simple slide lever and I just leave it on recirc, the fancy infiniti has to have recirc pushed each time you start the car up?

    any ideas???
  • floraofflowersfloraofflowers Member Posts: 1
    I've had our Maxima for a year in Feb. In July of 2001 I started hearing noise when I shifted from 1st to 2nd. After taking it to the dealership, I was told that the "Throw-out bearings were bad". They replaced it with another one. Well 5 months later I noticed it was doing the exact same thing. I am going back tomorrow to have it fixed again. Has anyone had any problems like this? It's a 2001.
  • markg11markg11 Member Posts: 5
    Hmmmm from what I am reading seems that the rear o2 sensor on the 00 Maxima is a weak component. I have just over 17k miles on my car and guess what? the rear o2 sensor needed replacement.. Its not really ok to have a problem like this on a car that is known for quality and durability but its doesn't hurt as much when the repair is covered under the warranty. Once my warranty expires if that sensor goes again I'll be um..annoyed to say the least. Maybe if Nissan gets enough owner complaints they'll fix the problem..ya know..one of those silent recalls
  • jaepiljaepil Member Posts: 5
    I jsut recently bought 2002 SE and I too get a vibration. What shuold I do about it? What did you do?
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