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Comments
The problem is first to second gear slip or delay
i know there is some bulletins ntb00039a but this bulletin did'nt resolv the problem.
Appreciate any help!
To read more about it, go to
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=25984
It seems like every color is problematic, not just the metallics.
Galvinjjr, before you put your money down on the car, check out the web site above. It's a sad situation because the Maxima is such a great ride, but this paint problem is hard to overlook, esp. when considering resale value when you're ready to trade it in.
I have a 2001 GXE in sterling mist and I have been "connecting the dots" since the third week that I owned the car. It's heartbreaking.
I'd like to suggest you replacing the fuel pump. Although, it fixed my problem on my other car (not Nissan), I think it's worth a try. The fuel pump doesn't cost much and easy to replace.
Hope you get your car fix before the winter
Re paint problems - I have the Satin Blue. I have a few tiny "dots" of paint chips on the lower bumper, but none at all on the rest of the car. Looks great.
I did drive the Maxima "02 6-speed, this car is really nice and one of the few 4 door sedans with a manual gear box. After reading some of your threads, I'm concerned about the Nissans paint related problems. Should I still buythis car?
As a novice to the Nissan line up, are their any other issues I should know about this car? (reliability, resale, safety etc.)
Only other car in the running is the Chrysler 300M special (with no available man. gearbox).
Also, If I want to upgrade to 18" wheels and tires what size options do I have?
thanks, ron
Thanks!
I've noticed my trunk open on it's own about 4 times since I bought the car, but it's very random. I don't know what causes it, but it really doesn't concern me. The trunk won't pop by simply pushing/pulling on it, so I'm not going to worry about it.
I average 25 MPG in mostly highway driving with some city driving.
P.S. I've yet to run into any type of problem, the car just requires normal maintenance. Also, since I got an early model it was built in Japan, I believe all Maxima's are now made in the US (that are sold in the US).
AMADEUS@uab.edu
Thanks.
1) I have replaced the dash do to rattling
2) I have replaced the BOSE radio, it did heat up a lot and over time I could here the disk skipping thru the speakers. Once it started, you could not keep your mind off the skip/scratch.
3) The driver window squeaks when closing
4) The driver window will some time close on AUTO but once it closes, it re-opens 1/4 of the way down.
5) There is rust on the back passenger door, this is on the little pc of metal that separates the window that opens/closes and the permanent little window.
6) I have changed coil # 5 twice and coil #4 once in the last 7 months. It takes a week to get my app. at the dealer, therefore , the car drives like a deasile in the mean time.
7) there is rust on the bumper where the trunk scrubs when it shuts
8) when accelerating in 2nd and 3rd ( standard ) the car looses power between 3000 and 4000 RPM.
9) try to find a set of non-OEM tires that fit on the 17" rim. There is only three to four choices for a high performance tire that is not $400/ea.
10) the leather on the drivers side has cracked in many places.
I guess this sums it up for now. I love the Maxima, however, I need to replace this for a new model. So far the dealer is not helping me any. Am I the only one with so many disapointments?
PS : my friend has the 99 model and he had to replace the coil as well...
After all was said and done, the remotes for the keys dont work at all.
The BEWILDERING thing is that the nissan dealer that my body shop took it to told us that the key fobs are not really for a maxima at all and they cannot be re-programmed ! They even hinted that the fobs could be for an altima !!!
I tried to explain that I am the original owner of the Maxima since 1999 and that I never had a problem before the accident. The dealer's mechanic insisted that the remotes were not programmable anymore and that I would have to buy new ones.
Even if the fob was damaged during the accident, the second fob was safe at home !!! How the hell could the second one be wrong/problematic ?
Are these nissan guys on dope ??
QUESTION: Could some piece of the alarm (computer/transmitter/receiver) that has been put into the car after the accident be a wrong part ? This is the only thing that I can think of.
Any help would be appreciated.
-going remotely insane
Does any one know what's the 0-60 MPH time on the 2002 MAXIMA?
beavaniii - My 2002 SE is still "Made in Japan". All the maxima are still made in Japan, however, the Altima is made in the US : )
I probably have an intermittent temp sensor but it is a little to difficult to justify going after it just now.
If your car has an outside temp reading, check it next time the A/C fails. If it reads below 32 when it is warm outside, I would suggest replacing the sensor.
We just had our "check engine" light come on and it was for a oxygen sensor - at only 11 months and 12k miles. Hope this isn't signs of things to come!
DD
I know this is old but I have not been here in a while. I had the same problem with my 01 SE. The dealer replaced the motor. When it first happened, I disconnected the battery and that reset it. But it kept happening. The dealer fixed it in June and I haven't had a problem with it since.
The Starter is a bummer, but when mine have gone, they haven't been that expensive.
This new '00 max had one fail 10 months into its life. I'm wondering if they are getting too hot or something? Why is the rear sensor notorious?
Thanks,
DD
Semper Fi!
I have 2000 SE 20th aniv. with under 5000 miles.
When I took the car in for it's first service at 3750 I got a call saying the air filter needed to be changed. Huh? I asked them to keep the filter for me to look at.
When I got back to the dealer the air filter had a bunch of oil blow by on it. It had not soaked through to the other side, but it did get to the bottom of the folds. It was very localized toward the bottom left of the filter in about a 3 inch circle. After seeing how the filter is placed in the car it lines up very well with air flow.
Anyways, when I told them that if the oil on the filter was cause for it to be changed at 3750 then there was a bigger problem, and the car needed a full diagnostic. Well all of sudden I got themn back tracking. They bring out a different mechanic to look at it (supposedly their Nissan expert). He goes on to say. It's not a problem the air filter should not have been changed and that what we were seeing is "normal". I didn't argue then since they didn't charge me for the filter, but I am very skeptical that it is "normal".
So I have now put another 600-800 miles on the car and I am noticing the same thing. An oil circle is starting to develop in the same place on the brand new oil filter. I have never seen this on my other cars at all.
My first thought was maybe they had overfilled the oil which was causing the blowby. However I checked the oil and it is slight below the fill line, right were it should be. I have not used synthetics so I don't think that is the cause of the blowby either.
If anyone can verify that this is "normal" or not I would really appreciate it. I want to go back at my next service much more informed. If no one else is seeing this, I will ask them to call the tech line and run a full diagnostics. I am very worried that this is going to cause a big issue as I get more miles on the car.
Other than this the car runs beautifully.
Thanks for you help in advance and sorry about the long post. Just thought I should provide as much info as possible.
My goodness! The whole back end came off the ground! It caught the ground again but it was not a real pleasant experience! But hey, if that is the only bad thing that has happened, then no big deal. An IRS would make the car perfect.
Other than that, my 02 Maxima SE has been an absolutely "flawless" vehicle for the first 5,800 miles.
S
Has any 2002 Maxima owner notice some "slight vibration" on the steering wheel when the car is in "D" (Drive) and at idling speed (500~600 RPM)??? I don't know if this slight vibration on the steering wheel is normal consider that it's a brand new car. I only used premium gas (as suggested on the manual). Any feedback is greatly appreciated!
I'll check the PCV filter, that should be easy.
DD
The motor that changes where the air exits seems to be doing it's thing, I can see the linkages moving as I push the buttons for Floor, Bi-Level, etc. I know there is a flap or door that covers the heater core to prevent air flow, but it is hidden so I can not see if it changes state. And if it is that door, what could be controlling it and retarding it's opening for so long?
Any ideas? it's making for a cold drive to work until I'm halfway there.
Oh, and once it is functioning properly it seems to be OK if it's parked for a while. I can get warm then increasingly hotter air as it comes back up to full operating temp.
You must have a temp door stuck or something obstructed. Maybe a partial vac leak or something.
If the hose is hot, hot coolant is circulating, yer core is probably hot, That leaves one thing. its something to do with yer climate controls.
A vac tester can be used to test the system, I'd guess your vac motor to one of the doors is leaking and hardly works. They are soft rubber inside and do fail, I replaced on my '95 Ram, it was $30+ for something that weighed 1/2 ounce or something like that.
Good luck
I have another car that looses fluid rapidly into the resevoir. When it gets to a certain point, the heater will not work. simply moving the fluid from the tank back into the radiator allows it to heat correctly.
I now check it's levels monthly.
I have a question. I took my car in for service yesterday for the service engine light which they fixed (coils) but they could not find or hear the noise that I hear from the front end, maybe the snow had something to do with it. Anyway, I hear a constant squeek, not to loud, as the car goes over small bumps front the front end, almost as if it needed to be greased. I can replicate this squeek which can be heard very clear when closing the front doors!! It was to cold yesterday so whatever it is was probably frozen/had water or snow and the dealer did not hear anything. The dealer said he checked the front end and everything looked ok but the noise was still there today. When I was bringing home the car yesterday I didnt hear it. He did say to stop by one day when the weather was better to see if they can figure it out. Has anyone had this problem? Again, the noise can be heard rather easily with the radio off and again when closing either front door. Any ideas??
I have a question. I took my car in for service yesterday for the service engine light which they fixed (coils) but they could not find or hear the noise that I hear from the front end, maybe the snow had something to do with it. Anyway, I hear a constant squeak, not to loud, as the car goes over small bumps front the front end, almost as if it needed to be greased. I can replicate this squeak which can be heard very clear when closing the front doors!! It was to cold yesterday so whatever it is was probably frozen/had water or snow and the dealer did not hear anything. The dealer said he checked the front end and everything looked ok but the noise was still there today. When I was bringing home the car yesterday I didnt hear it. He did say to stop by one day when the weather was better to see if they can figure it out. Has anyone had this problem? Again, the noise can be heard rather easily with the radio off and again when closing either front door. Any ideas??
Paul
one thing I do not like is that the ac defaults to outside air every time you start the car, that is in real hot weather, if you want the "inside air" to always be on (no outside air) you have to push the recirc button every time you start the car
any way to stop that, that is always have it on recirc? my 94 camry has a simple slide lever and I just leave it on recirc, the fancy infiniti has to have recirc pushed each time you start the car up?
any ideas???