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Hyundai Elantra 5-door

1505153555696

Comments

  • bnorby1bnorby1 Member Posts: 16
    Hey, I wanna know - if I am going to get some new rims for my gt, how do I know if any particular rims are too big? I was thinking ~16 inches or so, something a bit bigger - anything more for me would be too much. Has anyone ever upgraded? (and no, I will be keeping my old rims.... :) ).
  • wmoseswmoses Member Posts: 212
    Check my website's Garage Page for more details but I believe 17" x 7" rims with 40 - 42 mm offset are the limit. I prefer 16" myself -- keeps the weight down and I should be able to get a more compliant sidewall.


    http://gwebworks.com/elantra_gt/garage.shtml


    I would sell my wheels if anyone was interested.

  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    it probably does make sense to cross shop the Elantra GT and Aerio. Too bad, because with a wider variety of hatches they wouldn't be seen as competitors at all. I wish Hyundai would bring in the LaVita-- of course the Sportage replacement WILL be built on the Elantra platform.
  • montrealgtmontrealgt Member Posts: 14
    But in the end my Elantra GT won out. They compared out pretty well evenly in my opinion, even down to the price which ended up differing only by $2 a month over a 60 mth purchase plan. The one thing in the Aerio favour was the comfort of the seats (even better than the GT, but not by much) and I loved that slit of a dash. Aerio more wagon than car, I found, and the one drawback to all that space was the raised 'trunk' compartment. Nifty little compartments, but it does make the 'floor' just that much too high for a grocery bag to fit comfortably. I had to decide if I wanted to feel classy and sporty in my GT, or funky and cool in the Aerio. It was a really tough decision!

    It was my Hyundai dealer (who also owns the Suzuki dealership right next door) who made the difference. My salesman and the service staff just seemed to be that much more pleasant and helpful at Hyundai. You know, I would recommend either car without a moments hesitation.

    Oh......and I thought torque was the thing, not HP. ;)

    4300 km on my Elantra and loving it more each day!!
  • th003gth003g Member Posts: 149
    i just got off work and my coworker owns a 2001 jetta GLS... 4 cyl...velour... red exterior black interior...$22k auto... i finally got a peek inside of it since she's got limo tint...i really like the interior materials quality and fit and finish (actual chrome trim around shifter and other details...)but its Smaller than my 15k GT...she paid a premium for the Vw interior and name... thats what i think... and all she got were Hubcaps... yikes...hehe..
    17s are what I have in my car... play it safe and go no larger than 205/45/17... anda no lower than 40 series in profile.... (3 of my rims are now scratched... damn NYC Curbs..) and yes the level or road noise and ride quality is stiffer and louder... i like it though...
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    >>> An SX AWD with ABS is $18,000.... the lowest cost AWD vehicle BY FAR for sale in the U.S. <<<

    The Subaru Impreza base wagon is about the same price, and I've seen them advertised for well under $18,000 (2002 units). I won't go into the Sportage because that's 4WD and not comparable to the Aerio and Impreza.
  • jmaterojmatero Member Posts: 253
    The Sportage replacement is not based on the elantra. It is the Sorento and although it looks like a car-based SUV/crossover, it is actually RWD/AWD and built on a frame like a truck-based SUV. There is no Elantra in beast.
  • ezwjraiaezwjraia Member Posts: 9
    Ever since my GT was new, I've taken it to my neighborhood Jiffy Lube for oil changes. A couple of weeks ago, I got a promotional from the Hyundai dealership's service manager. He "wanted me back" as a service customer, and offered to change the oil for $9.95. I accepted the offer, and brought the car in for service. However, after an hour or so, the service manager told me that whoever had changed the oil last had damaged the threads in the oil pan and that his mechanic was unable to re-install the plug. The car needed a new oil pan, which would cost me about $497.00 and was not covered by the warranty. He would have to order the pan, which would take several days for delivery. I asked if there wasn't another way that they could solve the problem. He suggested a temporary plug which might hold until he could install the new pan. He cautioned me that the temporary plug was not designed to last very long. When it failed, I'd lose all my oil and have to get a new engine. He then gave me the old plug, so I could show it to the Jiffy Lube manager when I tried to get them to pay for the damage they had caused. The threads on the lower portion of the plug were indeed completely filled with what appeared to be aluminum. I drove immediately to the Jiffy Lube service center and related this story to the assistant manager. He asked if there had been any oil on my garage floor after the last Jiffy Lube oil change. I said that there had been none at all. He felt that the mechanic at the Hyundai dealership must have damaged the pan, either when he removed the plug or when he attempted to re-install it. He offered to install a larger, self-tapping plug. I accepted his offer, and so far have not noticed any oil leaking. Can anyone on this forum tell me if I must replace the oil pan, as recommended by the Hyundai service manager, or should I just continue to use Jiffy Lube for oil changes and only go back to the dealer for warranty work?
  • lokannalokanna Member Posts: 22
    I had a similar problem on my old Cavalier. When I went to a local quick lube, they owner came out and showed me the original plug and stated how it was ruined. He then offered a similar solution which worked great, the only problem from then out is that every 4 changes or so (about a year apart), the quick lube place had to give me a new plug, and charged me like $7. I trusted the guy as he had been doing work for my family for nearly 15 years and had been nothing but excellent. I have no idea how yours got ruined (I'd hate to think a dealership can't even perform an oil change) but be careful about not fixing your new oil pan, because if you have engine issues in the future, Hyundai may cite the 'jiffy lube fix' as a culprit and not cover you.
  • frank134frank134 Member Posts: 2
  • frank134frank134 Member Posts: 2
    Well I wanted a small good looking car, spacious and inexpensive. I narrowed it down to a PT Cruiser, Protege-5 and a Elantra GT. They all are good and have there pros and cons but I went with the GT. I am no youngster,so I wanted something with a European flare. Actually I am glad that I did not find this site until after my purchase since I would be completely confused. Anyhow I have a good looking Carbon Blue and I am happy with my choice. The suspension is a bit tight and the seats could be softer but it's just fine for a around town commuter. I went through Costco and it was a great experience and the price was right. My question: Where can I get an inexpensive lip spoiler? $180 is the cheapest I could find on the internet and that's a bit much for a piece of back metal! Thanks
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    The Sorrento is not a replacement for the Sportage. It is a larger vehicle that will be in the lineup with the Sportage until that car is redesigned (yes, on the Elantra platform).
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    My friend who now has possession of my 00 Accent ran into the same problem! He got the oil changed 1500 miles ago and in the past few weeks noticed oil spots in his garage. He got under the car and noticed the plug was loose. He retightened it but that didn't stop it from leaking. He took it back to the quick oil lube place and they claimed the original plug had stripped threads. They replaced it with a new plug and so far the leakage has stopped. Hyundai may need to look into this problem. Maybe make a plug with stronger threads?
  • jeffhall76jeffhall76 Member Posts: 52
    I think the problem is with the oil pan, not the plug.
  • little9little9 Member Posts: 30
    When is Hyundai going to address this issue? New cars should not require aftermarket parts to fix design problems.
  • desgdesg Member Posts: 52
    It's more a human problem than a design problem I suspect.

    The pan is aluminium not pressed steel like most manufacturers use - these used aluminium for rigidity and to reduce noise. The design calls for a fresh crushable washer to be used plus a certain torque setting.

    I bet neither of these are being followed
  • wmoseswmoses Member Posts: 212
    I have to agree with Desg. This is not a design issue, and the problem is neither with the plug or the pan, but the people doing the oil changes.

    As for the 2000 Accent referenced in message 2617 -- I would bet that the pan is steel on that car which makes the ineptitude even worse.

    Hyundai cannot account for all the poorly trained people who attempt to do simple oil changes and fail to do a proper job. Any so called mecahnic who can't thread a bolt in a hole should not be working on anything mechanical.

    Dealership "mechanics" are no better than anyone else in this regard, since most of the time those assigned the task of changing the oil are the lowest guys on the totem pole ... the kid apprentices.

    Last oil change I had done by someone else was at the dealer. The moron who put the plug in must have used an air wrench, because I could not get the plug out. I had to waste my time to go to my nearby Midas (the dealer was full on the Saturday I called to tell them about the error of their ways) and two people there had to spend over 5 minutes and use various tools before putting vice-grips on the oil pan plug. The head of the plug was ruined obviously.

    If the person at the dealer had used a crushable oil plug washer and torqued it to spec there would have been no problem with me getting it off. I now have a Fumoto Oil Drain valve installed so that people changing my oil (if not me) can do this without waking up their brains.
  • ezwjraiaezwjraia Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for all the response to my plea for help. Could anyone tell me if it is possible to get a Fumato Oil Drain valve installed on my "damaged" oil pan, and any suggestion as to who I might get to install it? At this point, I'm reluctant to go back to the dealer whose only recommended solution is to spend $500.00 for a new oil pan. Wouldn't the replacement pan be as likely to be damaged by the next inexperienced person trying to change the oil as the original one was?
  • wmoseswmoses Member Posts: 212
    I doubt that you could install the oil drain valve in the ruined threaded hole in your oil pan.

    The valve fits the original threads, and your oil pan's hole would need to have the threads re-cut, and since you need to make the hole bigger to do this, I think you're SOL.

    I think you need to fight with that dealer and get a new oil pan installed. Then install the oil drain valve.
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    I agree with wmoses that you're probably out of luck on adding a Fumoto valve to your existing oil pan, but you might check back with the Jiffy Lube guy to see if he can tell you what the thread pattern is on the new plug that they put in. You could then check with the Fumoto customer service people to see if they have a model that matches that thread pattern. They have applications to match most vehicles and they might just have a match. Good luck!
  • jlgoldenjlgolden Member Posts: 32
    We have a 2001 Elantra GT with 20,000 miles. The oil has always been changed at the selling dealer - Monday of this week, they discovered the drain plug threads stripped, and replaced the oil pan under warranty. This is exactly why I am a firm beleiver in letting the dealer do all of the messy maintenance. By going back to the dealer, you may pay more than at some other lube places, but you also develop a relationship with the service writers, and get more personalized, reliable service. Then, if you ever have a real problem with your car, they may take better car of you (loaner car, move you ahead of the line, wash job, etc) , as they will know that you have been a loyal customer. When the 30,000 mile maintenance comes up next year, I will gladly pay Hub Hyundai (Houston) to replace the trans fluid, filters, coolant, and whatever else is stated in the owner's manual. That way they keep record of all that happens. Don't just hit the dealer up for all the freebies like warranty work, because you will appear less valuable to them. It is possible to become a valuable "good customer", but you cannot get it for free!
  • joffficerjoffficer Member Posts: 169
    I'm amazed at people who try to do a simple task, but never even bother to look at the directions! If the manual say "torque to 15 ft/lbs" then do JUST that! Not "one grunt", or "a little past snug".
    Most quick lube joints hire people with little to no mechanical knowledge, and dealers pawn "simple jobs" off on cheap labor. Save yourself time, money and aggravation and do your own maintenance... you'll probably enjoy your car more!
  • wmoseswmoses Member Posts: 212
    jlgolden says --

    "The oil has always been changed at the selling dealer - Monday of this week, they discovered the drain plug threads stripped, and replaced the oil pan under warranty. ... When the 30,000 mile maintenance comes up next year, I will gladly pay Hub Hyundai (Houston) to replace the trans fluid, filters, coolant, and whatever else is stated in the owner's manual."

    Well that is the same dealer that did the oil change on my GT and overtightened the oil plug. I also bought my car from Hub Hyundai.

    They are not bad, as a dealer, and I would get other warranty work done there I suppose (as opposed to another Hyundai dealer) but when it comes to oil changes I would think twice .... Even with my Fumoto valve in place.

    Or at least don't get it done on a Saturday when they tell you up front they don't have real mechanics working.
  • 204meca204meca Member Posts: 369
    I read the post by vocus on Sep 23, 2002 (Elantra sedan board) regarding the mileage that he gets with his Elantra 5spd. I have been seriously weighing a Elantra GT against a Honda EX, and the mileage could be a signinficant factor for me. Is Vocus' 34 mpg in mixed driving and 40+ on long stretchs typical or a fluke? How are the rest of you doing in the fuel econo category with your 2001-2001 Elantra GT 5 5pds?
  • jimpimmsjimpimms Member Posts: 81
    I drive somewhat aggressively. My 2001 GT 5-spd (15,300 mi.) averages 27-28 mpg in mostly urban/suburban driving, and 32-33 mpg on the highway (70-80 mph). I could get better local mpg if I upshifted earlier, but I like to keep the engine within it's optimal torque range for quicker acceleration. If high mpg is paramount, buy the Civic; if not, the Elantra's got it beat in almost every other category.
  • desgdesg Member Posts: 52
    I'm not convinced a MPG comparison of a Civic to an Elantra is really comparing apples to apples. The only similarity seems to be price between these two, size, weight, features etc seem vastly different.

    When you are talking 4 cylinder vehicles you really get many more categories than in larger cars 1.5L, 1.8L, 2.0L all give very different results and weight is also a critical factor in this size vehicle, whereas say in 3.5L, 3.8L & 4.0L comparisons (which are the sizes of our standard 6 cylinder family cars here) you tend to get much smaller differences.
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    This year, I think there's just a Sorento, although I'm sure Kia has lots of 02's to unload. Next year's (04) Sportage replacement will be on an Elantra platform, although that seems a bit odd because the Elantra is due for replacement in 06 if Hyundai's typical replacement cycle is adhered to.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    Why is that odd? It beats waiting to replace that already old Sportage till '06. Subaru did the same thing during a single model year with the Forester. That car is based on the previous Impreza, and this year's restyling was just that, even though a new Impreza platform was introduced. They are just getting the most mileage from existing platforms. American manufacturers really know how to stretch those platform dollars, too.
  • gt_jenkgt_jenk Member Posts: 4
    My 2002 GT, manual transmission with 16K miles, has been a great choice. I commute it like crazy through SoCal and initiated it with a 3000 mile road trip through the Rockies this summer (where I left my brother and his bloated Explorer in the dust while climbing the mountain roads!).

    I notice when accelerating hard, like on a freeway onramp, that the engine bogs down a little bit around 3800 RPM (regardless of what gear its in), then bursts with power right at 4000 RPM. Both dealers I've taken it to put it on the computer and say all is within specs. Anyone else experience this?
  • wmoseswmoses Member Posts: 212
    gt_jenk asks --


    "I notice when accelerating hard, like on a freeway onramp, that the engine bogs down a little bit around 3800 RPM (regardless of what gear its in), then bursts with power right at 4000 RPM. ... Anyone else experience this? "


    Yes ... this is the characteristic of the Beta engine. There is a "flat spot" around that area of the torque curve.


    See http://www.gwebworks.com/elantra_gt/gt3.shtml

  • gt_jenkgt_jenk Member Posts: 4
    wmoses

    Thanks for the reply, and I dig your site.
  • jeffhall76jeffhall76 Member Posts: 52
    I find it odd that Hyundai still shows a picture of the gauges on the Elantra GT on their website that does not represent what they look like. It indicates white letters with a purple background.

    Go to Hyundai's website and click on Elantra and you'll see what I mean. I don't know which one I think looks better, but I'm happy with what I have. Everyone comments on them.

    www.hyundaiusa.com
  • magoo55magoo55 Member Posts: 8
    With all the talk re stripped oil pan plus...REMEMBER that although the manual (at least mine) says
    4 1/2 quarts w/filter. It is SUPPOSED to be 3 1/2 quarts w/filter. I know this has been addressed in the past but it is very important. Before having the dealer change my oil with their "special offer" I called, they said 3 1/2 quart and sure enough they put in too much oil. The same happened the one time i had it changed on my Santa Fe. Please be aware of this...too much oil is as bad as not enough oil.
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    I posted a message in the Elantra sedan board about the GLS's 2nd place showing in a 10 car test of inexpensive sedans. (BTW, the Suzuki Aerio GS place 9th.)
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Wow, that's so cool to see Hyundai finally beat Honda and Toyota in a comparison test! What was the 0-60 figure, top speed, and skidpad for the Elantra? I hope they tested 5-speeds? I won't be seeing that magazine for at least another week if not more :(
  • bri70bri70 Member Posts: 147
    Yes, finally Hyundai gets a straight compliment without a caveat thrown in at the end.

    The GLS beat the just released Corolla and was just one point out of first place which went to the Mazda Protege.

    I would have loved to see how the GT would have placed. The standard equipment and tighter suspension may have been enough for it to garner the pole position.
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    The Car and Driver test specs for 0-60, top speed, skidpad, lane change and tested fuel economy:

    Protege LX: 9.2 117(gov) .75g 59.9mph 24mpg
    Elantra GLS: 8.5 113(gov) .75g 55.4mph 26mpg
    Corolla LE: 8.2 115(gov) .74g 59.4mph 33mpg
    Civic LX: 9.3 113(gov) .76g 56.5mph 30mpg

    The Elantra posted good numbers throughout, with the exception of the lane change where the GLS's softer suspension made it slower than all but the Suzuki. (The GT would have probably done much better here.) Where the Hyundai really did well, though, was in the subjective judgments. The editors really liked driving the car, praising it's seats, steering, engine, control feedback and spacious cockpit. They also singled out what I felt was one of the best things about the car, but could never quite put into words: "There's an honest, no-monkey-business purposefulness about the way this Elantra moves.". "Looks like this Korean maker has arrived".
  • nippononlynippononly Member Posts: 12,555
    Protege only gets 24 mpg?

    2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)

  • bluong1bluong1 Member Posts: 1,927
    24mph doesn't seem right. Protege engines are notorious for fully breaking in only after few thousand miles. I currently own a Protege5, which has the same 2.0L engine than the Protege LX, and average consistently between 29-30mpg (70% Hwy at 80mph, 30% City, window down or AC on). Of course my driving habit is different than the condition used in C&D testing. However, for comparison purpose my previous car is a Civic ES, which gave me an average of 32mpg. So my guess is the true number would be around 27mpg.
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    The Elantra came withing one point of winning? It could have went either way it seems. Is it just me, or does the Protege/Protege5 win every C&D comparo that they are in? People say that C&D is biased towards BMWs, I guess they're biased towards Proteges too.
  • bluong1bluong1 Member Posts: 1,927
    >>> I guess they're biased towards Proteges too. <<<

    Not so fast, why is that?
  • newcar31newcar31 Member Posts: 3,711
    I was just kidding. The Protege deserves every comparo win it has achieved.
  • ashutoshsmashutoshsm Member Posts: 1,007
    That the deconted LX version was tested here. Not the ES/P5 with the better suspension. If the LX excelled in the lane-change and skidpad, imagine what the ES and P5 would achieve.

    And note that these guys based it on sub-$16,000 MSRP cars; the ES (with all its extras and better wheels/tires/suspension) could have made it into the test if you apply the specials and rebates currently available. IMHO it wasn't as close as it sounds :-)

    No denying, though, that Hyundai definitely has pulled their act together as well, and the Toyota and Honda aren't the only obvious choices any more :-) Nothing like some healthy competition!
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    OK, bear in mind also that the Pro LX was compared to the "decontented" Elantra GLS, not the loaded GT sedan. If they had used the GT sedan, with better handling than the GLS and much more equipment than even the Pro ES, it might have come out the same--or maybe the GT would have outpointed the Pro ES based on sheer value alone, who knows? And if you applied "rebates and specials" to ALL the cars in the test, then you'd be comparing an $11,000 Elantra GLS to a $15,000 (or so) Pro ES. The Pro LX was the right car to compare to the Elantra GLS.

    BTW, the reason that C/D is biased towards the Protege is that they are biased towards cars with good handling, no matter what else they can do.
  • bluong1bluong1 Member Posts: 1,927
    >>>BTW, the reason that C/D is biased towards the Protege is that they are biased towards cars with good handling, no matter what else they can do.<<<

    Humm, Mr. Backy, please explain to me what mean *biased*? To me, it means that the verdict is not entirely based on an objective criteria, but distorted by a subjective preference, e.g., "I like american car because it's... american" or that sort of things. Good handling is an important characteristic of the car and there is nothing wrong to judge the car using this characteristic. And I'm sure that the total score of each tested car given out by C&D take into account many more aspects than just the handling. I have a hard time to understand your comment.

    Bruno
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    By "biased" I mean that C/D editors typically give handling a higher weighting in their subjective scores (which are the scores that determine 1st-2nd-3rd etc. place) than other criteria, such as ride comfort, fuel economy, feature content, and NVH. And yes, C/D's scores on their comparos are entirely distorted by subjective preference. Just read the fine print below the scores in any C/D comparo. I agree that good handling is an important criterion. But to C/D, it's more important than other criteria. And that's fine, too--it's their magazine and their editorial content. We can always read another review if we want to see a different bias.
  • fgaydosfgaydos Member Posts: 319
    I test drove both a manual GT and an auto. I found the manual to be pretty zippy but was disappointed with the auto. It sounded pretty buzzy. I wonder if the HP thing has anything to do with that or just the extra weight of the auto tranny or a combo?
    I really wanted to like the automatic as I live in center city with lots of stop and go traffic. But that buzz......

    PS How is the reliability for the Hyundai's doing? Any web sites to check?
    TIA
  • bluong1bluong1 Member Posts: 1,927
    Mr. Backy, according to your definition of Bias, ANY magazine would be biased since each of them will have preference for a particular criteria over others. Or in others words how one can be sure that a magazine XXX considers all criteria at their *right* importance, if such thing does exist?

    For me C&D is less biased than "Consumer Report" for example, as I consider the handling very important as well.

    You like the Huyndai better, some like the Protege better, so what? Nothing wrong with that. Depending on your own preference, you may agree or not with the magazine verdict. But I don't thing it's fair to call a magazine biased just because they don't put the car that you like at the first position (assuming you did your home work before buying your car.)

    Bruno
  • wmoseswmoses Member Posts: 212
    I have been watching this discussion/argument/call it what you like about biased magazine reviews and must say that I am one who sees clear bias among several car magazines -- C/D included -- in their reviews.

    You bet it is there. Not only are their reviewers clearly biased when it comes to various aspects of a car's performance, but they are also biased towards various manufacturers. For instance, C/D seems to be clearly biased towards Japanese and German cars. Consider Automobile magazine ... they are biased against anything that regular people drive. Apparently only exotics are "automobiles" since that is all they seem to be interested in.

    Reviewers are humans who are not always able to separate the subjective from the objective in their reviews. Moreover they are "automotive journalists", not engineers, not technicians, not race car drivers. They are one notch above the people who review for Consumer Reports. As a result of that, it is reasonable to expect that each bunch of reviewers will have their likes and dislikes, and that this subjectivity (read bias) will come across in their writing. This can then extend to all members of a review team tending to write the same way since they all have the same masters to respond to in addition to the innate tendency to not contradict one's workmates all in the effort to "get along".

    The trick is to find a publication whose reviewers have managed to minimize this subjectivity and to stick with these guys. Another thing to do is resist the temptation to believe what they say verbatim. Unless their reviews and comparisons are based on some sort of scientific method in which bias can be separated out, reviews are all opinion and are to be valued accordingly. As this viewpoint is.

    Finally, a word on CR. They are not even worth mentioning in the same breath as even the crappiest car magazine. These clowns need to stick to simple objects to review. Car reviews are best left to people qualified to review cars, not those who only know to drive them but have to "review" them while reviewing toasters and microwave ovens. I have found their findings on cars I have owned to be not simply one person's opinion vs my own, but downright *wrong*. With me their credibility when it comes to cars is zero.
  • bluong1bluong1 Member Posts: 1,927
    I'm amaze that arguments like "they are not engineers, not car racer" or "review toaster and microwave oven", etc... come across in order just to bash a magazine. Sorry, I need something more solid and substantial than that to be convinced. If you think they are biased and bad reviewers, well, please give us a concrete example of what magazine XXX said, and then prove that they are wrong with a real scientific analysis to contradict it (as it seems to YOU that's the only way to be objective.) Sorry, IMHO, your critic toward the magazine is no more objective than the biased reviews of those magazines (as you though of them.)

    Bruno
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