Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Hyundai Elantra 5-door

1656668707196

Comments

  • lmp180psulmp180psu Member Posts: 399
    Hyundai a few months ago reported that they have misrepresented the HP figures on many of there vehicles, after testing showed the engines were producing less HP than they thought. The Elantra has 135 hp instead of 140 hp, the Sonata V6 has 170 instead of 181. I can't remember the current 4 cyl Sonata drop in hp , but the Accent actually went up 1 hp. Hyundai has tried to compensate some owners buy offering a free 1 year/12000 miles (I think) extension, or free roadside assistance.

    You can go to http://www.hyundaiusa.com and input your VIN # to see if you qualify for these options. Even if you have an "older" Hyundai you can possibly be entitled to the roadside assistance. I know that if you have a late 90's Sonata w/ the 4 cyl. with a reported 140 hp, they said that the hp dropped to 127 hp. All details are on the Hyundai website.
  • lmp180psulmp180psu Member Posts: 399
    ...you beat me to it, I type too slow :)
  • harlequin1971harlequin1971 Member Posts: 278
    some of the industry pros still think it is 140 too...but the jig is up. I learned about it when my roomie's Sonata V6 was tested and she received her letter from Hyundai.

    135 is the hp, real and true...for whatever that means.

    HP is a relative starting point anyways. Transmissions and drive trains are almost as important/more important that base HP figures.

    Test drive a BMW 325 with "only" ~185 hp or the 330 with 225 and then drive a Honda Accord V6 with 240. You will see what an aggressive transmission can do for a car's driving behavior.

    Hence, that is why most autos disappoint...they rob a bit more raw power than a manual. In a 200+ car, the differences are harder to notice than in a 100-140 hp car.
  • harlequin1971harlequin1971 Member Posts: 278
    another easy test is to drive a Subie Impreza with auto and then drive the Subie Legacy auto. Same engine, same power, a little weight gain, but a wholly different driving characteristic. The auto in the Impreza is tighter and a bit more wound. The Legacy is smooth, but more leasurely.
  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    Did my first 'normal' highway trip-near sea level and on mainly level roads. I averaged 32mpg going 70-80mph with the a/c on. This was pretty good considering my ECHO with 15" wheels did only 35mpg under the same conditions. This probably had something to do with the tires. The GT has Michelin Energy narrow profile tires and my ECHO had Yokohama low profile tires.
    Has anyone upgraded tires on their GT yet?
  • jackyl100jackyl100 Member Posts: 25
    I love it!

    Before the test drive: didn't want a manual, didn't care for red, didn't think it had enough power, just weren't sure. But the price?

    After the test drive: bought it!

    For others lurking on this board trying to decide - GO TEST DRIVE! DRIVING IS BELIEVING!

    Still loving my 02 manual.

    Jackyl
  • compensatecompensate Member Posts: 212
    Thanks for the update. I had no idea about the horsepower misrepresentation.
  • harlequin1971harlequin1971 Member Posts: 278
    Well, I don't think I would have taken a "Rally Red" but the Chianti Metallic was decent, but not my first or second choice.

    I guess them are the breaks for getting what you want.

    I could have gotten an auto in the Blue or Silver, but the desire for the 5speed won out over color. I could have bought the GT Sedan (5speed) in Carbon Blue, but the desire for the hatchback look and utility won out over color. In the end, I like the "Saab" look of the hatch (very euro) and the 5 speed is so much better than the auto for driving dynamics (hyundainugen). In the end, a grand will get me any color I want down the road...so maybe in two or three years I will pull out any door dings that appear over time and recoat the puppy in a new shade. Maybe a hot yellow or a blue metallic like the GLS offers.

    Last thing on color - Hyundai, listen to me! - the two best colors for me were the soft, denim blue metallic and the white...neither of which come on the GTs. I would have much rather had the blue metallic over the chianti red. C'mon 'undai - give the GT the more color choices, or at least switch them up.

    VW bought some buyers for the Beetle by offering special limited series paint jobs...cool colors. I wish more manufacturers would do that. Maybe a smarter idea to offer the "custom coats" on the Tibouron, but it would help continue to place Hyundai up into the market as a hipper, more satisfying choice in the new car "economy" market.

    Just look at the fun colors of the Mini. Different car, sure...but why not take that attitude?!? It would be cool to be able to spec order a custom paint job and euro-white wheel combos...

    Even if folks didn't use it themselves, it attaches that "fun" to every model.
  • harlequin1971harlequin1971 Member Posts: 278
    Seeing as how Focii, Neons, Proteges, Sentras, Imprezas, and now Lancers are all busting out their private "hot rod" versions...will we see any play from Hyundai with a WRX version of their own car?

    They made a decent showing in the series, and I am sure they learned a thing or two about super charging the engine and AWD. If people are gonna spend $20k for a MazdaSpeed Protege or a NEON SXT - why would it be hard to see people willing to spend $18-19k on an Elantra GTX? Give the 4-banger a boost (170-190 real hp), strengthen the suspension, add more aggresive sway bars, add some body cladding, new headlights, and a more aggresive tire package.

    Throw out the perfectly comfie GT seats and replace with recaro buckets. Add 3 more speakers to the stereo (separates for the rear and a sub) and don't let Bose touch it. Chrome or aluminum accents around the cabin with a short-throw 6-speed manual from the tibbie.

    Without AWD, I don't see why such a car would be any more expensive than a base V6 Tibbie (MSRP $18499) and as such would once again undercut the competition in the high-zoot econo car class.

    They could go full throttle and give us a 220+hp turbo four and AWD to compete with the Subie and coming Saab.

    I know I am not the only one thinking about it...but such things go a long way into infusing "fun" into a car line that most people write off as "practical."
  • harlequin1971harlequin1971 Member Posts: 278
    one minor gripe...

    The purple illumination is COOOOOLLL

    but, the clock and stereo are green...this kinda sucks.

    Hyundai, you should have given all the readouts the purple treatment...or shifted the red indicators to green. All purple and green would be fine...but purple, green, and red gets a little busy.
  • lmp180psulmp180psu Member Posts: 399
    I agree with you totally! I am 22, and even in it's current form, the GT (especially hatch)has good appeal for a younger audience. BUT, if Hyundai would listen to just some of your suggestions, they would not just be considered a value leader anymore. You should work for the marketing dept for Hyundai :)
  • lmp180psulmp180psu Member Posts: 399
    Agreed!
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    About a year ago, just after I had gotten my GT, I filled out an online survey from Hyundai. Several of the questions were about whether I would consider buying a high-performance version. The illustration that accompanied the question was of the WRC Accent in its full racing colors and graphics. There was a disclaimer that the actual vehicle, if offered, wouldn't necessarily look like this. Too bad. With the soaring popularity of World Rally racing, Hyundai could really cash in with a road-going spin-off. Especially if they could include the turbo and all wheel drive. IMHO, striking fear into the hearts of riced-out Civics would be a great way for Hyundai to shed it's "cheap, but boring" public perception. Even better if they could do it with the Elantra.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The Accent GT! With cladding, beefed-up suspension, etc. Same engine though. Not exactly high performance, but the editors of C/D were favorably impressed by its handling.
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    Yeah, Hyundai really went all out on that one. It is a step in the right direction though. Maybe I shouldn't have checked the survey box that said "No, I don't have any use for more horsepower." ;-)
  • harlequin1971harlequin1971 Member Posts: 278
    do premium spark plugs really give you a bump in hp?

    Just curious.

    Would be nice to change an air filter and the plugs and get a 7-8 hp increase.

    Figure that brings the upgrade total to $50 for titanium plugs and the K&N filter.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    You always seem to get your mags a day or two ahead of me! I'm calling the police. So C/D tested the Accent, huh? With other little cars or by itself?
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Spark plugs won't increase hp. They may help the engine run smoother and increase fuel economy, but don't expect them to increase the engine's output.
  • donl68donl68 Member Posts: 31
    I am looking forward to doing the rear sway bar upgrade this summer. This is the rear sway bar from the Tib. Is there a front sway bar from the Tib that we can switch out too? Has anyone done this or won't it work on the GT. Thanks.
  • compensatecompensate Member Posts: 212
    I don't have the time to search the board to check for potential issues, but my check engine light came on for the first time yesterday. I do know about the gas cap tightening issue and I know it's not that.

    I drove to work yesterday morning and everything was fine. After I started my car to drive home from work, I noticed the check engine light was on. The car seems to be running perfectly fine, so I am not sure what is going on. My first thought is that it is a bad oxygen sensor (or other sensor).

    Are there any other potential/common issues that have been discussed/encountered by any of you?

    Right now, I can't afford dealer labor rates to do a check unless I absolutely have to (wife left job to care for daughter having surgery - monthly debt now exceeds monthly income for a few months).

    Any suggestions/recommendations?

    Thanks!!!
  • rthshorthsho Member Posts: 3
    If you do not want to take it to a shop you can easily do it yourself. You do need a list explaining the OBD II codes that come up. Maybe someone on this board can help you out with that or you can go to http://members.aol.com/carpix256/pages/tcode.html, for $25 you get the complete list off codes.

    If it is a sensor, you can most of the times easily replace it yourself.
  • lmp180psulmp180psu Member Posts: 399
    Autozone does FREE CEL code checks; If you have one in your area try there. I don't think you have to buy anything from there to get your car checked.
  • compensatecompensate Member Posts: 212
    Thanks for the help!
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    The rear sway bar upgrade should be the first thing that every Elantra driver who enjoys driving should do. It's cheap, simple and makes an AMAZING difference in the cars handling, without any noticeable change in ride comfort.

    Unfortunately, the Tibby's front sway bar doesn't fit the Elantra. On the other hand, while fitting a stiffer front sway bar would reduce body lean even further, it would also increase understeer.

    To improve handling beyond the rear sway bar upgrade, the next suspension upgrade should be a set of lower and stiffer springs. I've got my eye on a set of Eibachs. They only lower the car by 1.2 inches, but the consensus is that they don't compromise the ride near as much as the more radical lowering springs. All this for a mere $300. (Please, Hon, can I buy some Eibachs. Please, please?) :)
  • compensatecompensate Member Posts: 212
    I went to Autozone at lunch and had them check the code.

    They said, based on the description for the code they got ("emissions control venting circuit" or something like that) it meant my gas cap was not tightened or needed to be replaced, the ONE thing I was almost certain was not the issue, as I always tighten the heck out of my gas cap.

    I still released and re-tightened the cap. The light was still on, but I think I remember someone saying that it might take a day or so for the light to shut off. If it doesn't I guess I may need a new gas cap, which would not make me happy since the car is only 2 years old.

    Thanks again for the help.
  • lngtonge18lngtonge18 Member Posts: 2,228
    Even if you did need a new one, it would be under warranty so it's not too big of a deal.
  • compensatecompensate Member Posts: 212
    I wasn't sure if a gas cap would be a warranty item, but I guess it is, on second thought!
  • csandstecsandste Member Posts: 1,866
    of warming up and cooling off before the light goes off. My light came on the first day I had the car and the dealer reset it AND removed my tether (thanks). I was well aware of problems and am sure I gave the cap the requisite number of clicks. No trouble since, thought so maybe they knew something about the tether.

    Should mention that steady engine light-- no big thing. Blinking light--big thing, stop ASAP. At least that's what they told me.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    My car's check engine light took about 10 days to reset. What finally did the trick was calling the dealer to make an appointment, since I figured it couldn't be the gas cap after so long. Immediately after setting up the appointment, the light went off. Naturally.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Here I was mad because it seems like some people get their mags several days before I do! Anyway, it was a short review (1 page) on just the Accent GT in the new C/D.
  • harlequin1971harlequin1971 Member Posts: 278
    It may just be my habits from my last car, but I am finding that shifting into reverse on the GT requires a bit of attention:

    Twice now I have changed into reverse, or thought I had, only to have it buck out (once the clutch engages, it spits the shifter into neutral.

    Today, being aware of this, I tried to shift into reverse, but could not get it to house itself firmly into gear. I hand to release the clutch in neutral, repress it and try again. The second attempt allowed it to engage reverse.

    Anyone else have a finicky reverse engagement?

    I must say that I like the placement of reverse on my BMW much better, to the left and up, with a secure "snick" into the reverse housing. Once I figured out how to engage it, I never had an issue with a partially engaged gear. I worry that under spirited driving, one might try to shift reverse while shifting from third to fourth in the gear-6 layout so popular with Asian cars. I imagine that some lockout feature prevents this, and maybe it is the cause of partial reverse linkage.

    Am I just on a little learning curve as I make the switch from my old car to the new? Or should I have it looked at?
  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    Seems all cars have their little quirks. I haven't had a problem with reverse, but have to conciously shift into 5th. I think it's because the spring is new and stiff. Reverse, in my car, has been a little difficult when cold. Double clutching usually solves that.
    I tried switching out the horn for an aftermarket one but didn't realize the harness was a quick connect. Has anyone swithed their horn out? If so, was it a simple matter of cutting and splicing?
  • ejakabejakab Member Posts: 20
    I have scratched my beautiful, one-month old Chianti Red GT (I can see the blue color under the red), probably while stopping at a toll plaza. Could you tell me, please, if I can fix it myself, and where I could get an original Hyundai spray or paint? Thanks.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    ejakab, you can find touch-up at your dealer. Maybe their body shop should assist if the scratch is that deep.

    backy, I did manage to skim through a copy of C/D, but no sign of mine yet. The Accent review was pretty favorable, and it looks pretty sharp compared to lesser Accents. A "short take" of the Elantra GT would be nice to see, since there is no significant difference between it and the GLS (which is why CR probably won't test it, BTW).
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The suspension in the GT is different, isn't it? Also doesn't it have 4-wheel disc brakes? And this big door in the back instead of a trunk? ;-)
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    It's still an Elantra, with some upgrades. Those are not significant differences. Engine is the same, passenger space is the same, performance is the same.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    With C/D's big emphasis on handling, they might find the GT more appealing than the GLS. And they had a positive review on the GLS. That's why I was disappointed that they didn't include the GT in their comparo of small 5-door cars awhile back; I think the GT would have come out on top given its overall goodness and value.
  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    There are a couple of significant differences not related to performance. The rear door has a more horizontal line on top so the entry/exit is easier than the GLS. My Dad always has to watch the C-pillar on my Mom's GLS to keep from banging his head. Also, the hatch's roof is longer so the rear passengers don't have any sunlight hitting their heads. :)
    My average mpg has crept up to 25mpg! It'll be a couple more weeks of driving before the engine is officially broken in.
  • harlequin1971harlequin1971 Member Posts: 278
    was nice to be able to depress the 87 octane and fill it up. The BMW requires 89 or higher, and nets about the same mpg as my brand new Elantra.

    Am looking forward to an increase in mileage as the engine breaks in. Although a nearly 100% AC on situation for AZ living will make high mpg a bit difficult.

    Bought my GT a CD visor holder and a new window sun screen. Still looking for a seat covers (want light colored seat covers to save the leather and keep the interior cooler during the day) and planning on a window tinting next week with next paycheck.

    Enjoying the new car experience. I can say that I like this car much more than my new '96 Infiniti G20 and would pit it against a newer G20 in any measure. Good fit and finish, decent trannie (though not as sporty as the BMW), plenty of nice options, and similar space inside.

    Drive a G20 if you have a chance, and find out just what a nice deal the GT is.
  • storkdudestorkdude Member Posts: 26
    I remember reading an article a few years ago about the loose gas cap and OBD II in a car magazine. The author researched it and found that the light was supposed to stay on a certain amount of time after the cap was tightened--I believe that it was related to the next fill-up or two. He thought that the extended illumination period was to punish. Sounds plausable.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    You're right, C/D will test cars with differences in configuration (hatch, wagon, etc.) which is very helpful, and I would like to see their take on the Elantra GT. If it was included in a CR test, it would be to compare traditional hatchbacks like the Spectra, rather than today's "five door" cars which really resemble little wagons (personally, I have always liked hatchbacks -- so roomy!).
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    C/D's comparo of 5-door cars did include some hatchbacks, e.g. the Focus ZX5. That's why I was miffed they didn't include the Elantra GT, which was one of the cars that started the resurgence of hatchbacks. I actually wrote a Letter to the Editor about it, but it wasn't published.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Member Posts: 620
    I remember that comparison test as well -- it seemed to me that the Focus wagon would have been the correct model to pit against the other wagons ... oops, I mean 5-doors. If nothing else, the Elantra GT would have trounced the Focus for cargo room.

    P.S. Do me a favor and fax over your June C/D. :)
  • gaelsguygaelsguy Member Posts: 17
    I bought my first (2) oil filters at a dealer. The Hyundai parts man brought my attention to a small metal gasket taped to the top of each box. I was told to be sure and replace this gasket every time in order to prevent leaks. Do you get a gasket like this with filters ordered from HDK autosport?? It looks like the gasket was an after thought by Hyundai to correct an oil leak problem. Anyone have info on this? Closing in on 3k on my GT and will do the oil and filter change and Fumoto oil drain valve installation before motoring to Massachusetts in June. 1300 miles from central Fl where we live.
  • gtovritgtovrit Member Posts: 53
    We've been through the horn replacement process before, try going back to page 157, messages 3132 through 3151. I eventually did wire my air horn correctly, as directed, and it works great now. One thing to avoid if you are using air horns- the directions state not to place the compressor where it is subject to getting wet, i.e., the front of the car, next to the radiator. Unfortunately, this is the best place to put it. I found out their reasoning. Road spray and dirt got into the unprotected air intake port on the compressor and froze the rotary vanes in place, locking up the compressor, and making it blow fuses every time. I fixed it by taking the compressor apart, (very simple mechanism), cleaning it, and putting a plastic hose barb on the intake port with a piece of vinyl tubing hanging down to keep water from having direct entry. So far (two months) it is working just fine. I blow the horn every day just to make sure it doesn't have a chance to corrode in place. The inside of the compressor is a soft aluminum alloy, and apparently it doesn't take much dirt to get the vanes to stick.
     New topic-what exactly is supposed to be done at the 15000 mile checkup? I'd rather go to an independent mechanic for this, the dealer was a little snotty to me last time I was in.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Sorry, James, I don't have the June C/D anymore (seems all my good mags grow legs and walk away) and I also don't have your fax number!
  • kaz6kaz6 Member Posts: 331
    Thanks! You have INFINITE patience to have gone through all of that for your horn. :)
    I'm going to the dealer this week to buy the a/c filter and see about a front end mask.
  • harlequin1971harlequin1971 Member Posts: 278
    if u like the looks of the mask, continue. Otherwise, you may want to check into 3M's clear mask tape solution. It seals to the paint, and is fairly invisible...I am considering it, having lost three windshields in just under two years in Phoenix...lots of rocks on the roads, lots of little rock marks on my BMW.
  • ems1ems1 Member Posts: 48
    The nickle sized metal ring taped to the oil filter is to replace the seal on the drain plug and has nothing to do with the oil filter. It is not some kind of oversite. It is a good practice to replace this seal on the drain plug each time it is removed. If you are going to use the Fumoto valve (like I have) you don't need the metal ring since the Fumoto valve stays in place.
  • gt_fangt_fan Member Posts: 159
    Gtovrit,

    my dealer tried to talk me into their $400 15,000 mile "recommended" service package. This seemed like a lot to me. They wanted to do a lot of stuff that wasn't listed in the maintenance manual. Things like "fuel injector flush" and spark plug cleaning.

    Then I did some research here at Edmunds (scroll up to "Ownership" then "Maintenance Guide".). Based on these figures -- and the Edmunds articles "Maintenance Madness" and "Maintenance Madness II" -- I insisted on just the items that the manual calls for and saved myself a whole bunch of money.

    Note: I did make sure to be as tactful as possible with Robert the Service Advisor. If ever I have a questionable warranty situation, I want him on my side!
Sign In or Register to comment.