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You can go to http://www.hyundaiusa.com and input your VIN # to see if you qualify for these options. Even if you have an "older" Hyundai you can possibly be entitled to the roadside assistance. I know that if you have a late 90's Sonata w/ the 4 cyl. with a reported 140 hp, they said that the hp dropped to 127 hp. All details are on the Hyundai website.
135 is the hp, real and true...for whatever that means.
HP is a relative starting point anyways. Transmissions and drive trains are almost as important/more important that base HP figures.
Test drive a BMW 325 with "only" ~185 hp or the 330 with 225 and then drive a Honda Accord V6 with 240. You will see what an aggressive transmission can do for a car's driving behavior.
Hence, that is why most autos disappoint...they rob a bit more raw power than a manual. In a 200+ car, the differences are harder to notice than in a 100-140 hp car.
Has anyone upgraded tires on their GT yet?
Before the test drive: didn't want a manual, didn't care for red, didn't think it had enough power, just weren't sure. But the price?
After the test drive: bought it!
For others lurking on this board trying to decide - GO TEST DRIVE! DRIVING IS BELIEVING!
Still loving my 02 manual.
Jackyl
I guess them are the breaks for getting what you want.
I could have gotten an auto in the Blue or Silver, but the desire for the 5speed won out over color. I could have bought the GT Sedan (5speed) in Carbon Blue, but the desire for the hatchback look and utility won out over color. In the end, I like the "Saab" look of the hatch (very euro) and the 5 speed is so much better than the auto for driving dynamics (hyundainugen). In the end, a grand will get me any color I want down the road...so maybe in two or three years I will pull out any door dings that appear over time and recoat the puppy in a new shade. Maybe a hot yellow or a blue metallic like the GLS offers.
Last thing on color - Hyundai, listen to me! - the two best colors for me were the soft, denim blue metallic and the white...neither of which come on the GTs. I would have much rather had the blue metallic over the chianti red. C'mon 'undai - give the GT the more color choices, or at least switch them up.
VW bought some buyers for the Beetle by offering special limited series paint jobs...cool colors. I wish more manufacturers would do that. Maybe a smarter idea to offer the "custom coats" on the Tibouron, but it would help continue to place Hyundai up into the market as a hipper, more satisfying choice in the new car "economy" market.
Just look at the fun colors of the Mini. Different car, sure...but why not take that attitude?!? It would be cool to be able to spec order a custom paint job and euro-white wheel combos...
Even if folks didn't use it themselves, it attaches that "fun" to every model.
They made a decent showing in the series, and I am sure they learned a thing or two about super charging the engine and AWD. If people are gonna spend $20k for a MazdaSpeed Protege or a NEON SXT - why would it be hard to see people willing to spend $18-19k on an Elantra GTX? Give the 4-banger a boost (170-190 real hp), strengthen the suspension, add more aggresive sway bars, add some body cladding, new headlights, and a more aggresive tire package.
Throw out the perfectly comfie GT seats and replace with recaro buckets. Add 3 more speakers to the stereo (separates for the rear and a sub) and don't let Bose touch it. Chrome or aluminum accents around the cabin with a short-throw 6-speed manual from the tibbie.
Without AWD, I don't see why such a car would be any more expensive than a base V6 Tibbie (MSRP $18499) and as such would once again undercut the competition in the high-zoot econo car class.
They could go full throttle and give us a 220+hp turbo four and AWD to compete with the Subie and coming Saab.
I know I am not the only one thinking about it...but such things go a long way into infusing "fun" into a car line that most people write off as "practical."
The purple illumination is COOOOOLLL
but, the clock and stereo are green...this kinda sucks.
Hyundai, you should have given all the readouts the purple treatment...or shifted the red indicators to green. All purple and green would be fine...but purple, green, and red gets a little busy.
Just curious.
Would be nice to change an air filter and the plugs and get a 7-8 hp increase.
Figure that brings the upgrade total to $50 for titanium plugs and the K&N filter.
I drove to work yesterday morning and everything was fine. After I started my car to drive home from work, I noticed the check engine light was on. The car seems to be running perfectly fine, so I am not sure what is going on. My first thought is that it is a bad oxygen sensor (or other sensor).
Are there any other potential/common issues that have been discussed/encountered by any of you?
Right now, I can't afford dealer labor rates to do a check unless I absolutely have to (wife left job to care for daughter having surgery - monthly debt now exceeds monthly income for a few months).
Any suggestions/recommendations?
Thanks!!!
If it is a sensor, you can most of the times easily replace it yourself.
Unfortunately, the Tibby's front sway bar doesn't fit the Elantra. On the other hand, while fitting a stiffer front sway bar would reduce body lean even further, it would also increase understeer.
To improve handling beyond the rear sway bar upgrade, the next suspension upgrade should be a set of lower and stiffer springs. I've got my eye on a set of Eibachs. They only lower the car by 1.2 inches, but the consensus is that they don't compromise the ride near as much as the more radical lowering springs. All this for a mere $300. (Please, Hon, can I buy some Eibachs. Please, please?)
They said, based on the description for the code they got ("emissions control venting circuit" or something like that) it meant my gas cap was not tightened or needed to be replaced, the ONE thing I was almost certain was not the issue, as I always tighten the heck out of my gas cap.
I still released and re-tightened the cap. The light was still on, but I think I remember someone saying that it might take a day or so for the light to shut off. If it doesn't I guess I may need a new gas cap, which would not make me happy since the car is only 2 years old.
Thanks again for the help.
Should mention that steady engine light-- no big thing. Blinking light--big thing, stop ASAP. At least that's what they told me.
Twice now I have changed into reverse, or thought I had, only to have it buck out (once the clutch engages, it spits the shifter into neutral.
Today, being aware of this, I tried to shift into reverse, but could not get it to house itself firmly into gear. I hand to release the clutch in neutral, repress it and try again. The second attempt allowed it to engage reverse.
Anyone else have a finicky reverse engagement?
I must say that I like the placement of reverse on my BMW much better, to the left and up, with a secure "snick" into the reverse housing. Once I figured out how to engage it, I never had an issue with a partially engaged gear. I worry that under spirited driving, one might try to shift reverse while shifting from third to fourth in the gear-6 layout so popular with Asian cars. I imagine that some lockout feature prevents this, and maybe it is the cause of partial reverse linkage.
Am I just on a little learning curve as I make the switch from my old car to the new? Or should I have it looked at?
I tried switching out the horn for an aftermarket one but didn't realize the harness was a quick connect. Has anyone swithed their horn out? If so, was it a simple matter of cutting and splicing?
backy, I did manage to skim through a copy of C/D, but no sign of mine yet. The Accent review was pretty favorable, and it looks pretty sharp compared to lesser Accents. A "short take" of the Elantra GT would be nice to see, since there is no significant difference between it and the GLS (which is why CR probably won't test it, BTW).
My average mpg has crept up to 25mpg! It'll be a couple more weeks of driving before the engine is officially broken in.
Am looking forward to an increase in mileage as the engine breaks in. Although a nearly 100% AC on situation for AZ living will make high mpg a bit difficult.
Bought my GT a CD visor holder and a new window sun screen. Still looking for a seat covers (want light colored seat covers to save the leather and keep the interior cooler during the day) and planning on a window tinting next week with next paycheck.
Enjoying the new car experience. I can say that I like this car much more than my new '96 Infiniti G20 and would pit it against a newer G20 in any measure. Good fit and finish, decent trannie (though not as sporty as the BMW), plenty of nice options, and similar space inside.
Drive a G20 if you have a chance, and find out just what a nice deal the GT is.
P.S. Do me a favor and fax over your June C/D.
New topic-what exactly is supposed to be done at the 15000 mile checkup? I'd rather go to an independent mechanic for this, the dealer was a little snotty to me last time I was in.
I'm going to the dealer this week to buy the a/c filter and see about a front end mask.
my dealer tried to talk me into their $400 15,000 mile "recommended" service package. This seemed like a lot to me. They wanted to do a lot of stuff that wasn't listed in the maintenance manual. Things like "fuel injector flush" and spark plug cleaning.
Then I did some research here at Edmunds (scroll up to "Ownership" then "Maintenance Guide".). Based on these figures -- and the Edmunds articles "Maintenance Madness" and "Maintenance Madness II" -- I insisted on just the items that the manual calls for and saved myself a whole bunch of money.
Note: I did make sure to be as tactful as possible with Robert the Service Advisor. If ever I have a questionable warranty situation, I want him on my side!