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Here's a link to the rule :
http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/rulesregs/fmcsr/regs/571.114.htm
So how do they do that? What is the access route and how invasive a procedure is it? Thanks.
So how do they do that? What is the access route and how invasive a procedure is it? Thanks."
All they do is hook up whats called a Tech 2 to an access port underneath your dash and reprogram the IPC. Should take no more than 30 mins.
Anyway, I like the spin they put on the consequences of brake line failure. If it happens you will have immediate increased brake pedal travel. Dah. Resulting in a crash if stopping distance is limited. double Dah.
Frank
Ventvisors stick on the outside around the window with 3M tape. If you were to buy the ones from GM this is what you would be getting.
http://www.autoventshade.com/HTML/VV.html
"I have the WeatherTech ones that are kept in the channel with tension (no tape). They came with some clips that were supposed to be used on the tail end of the visors. I didn't install them and they say in fine."
I did not see/get any clips for the ones for my 02 Envoy nor was there any mention of clips in the directions. The rear ones did have tape along the top to adhere inside the channel.
Yeah, that's just what I'm going to do. Stick my dog in the back window on top of the cargo shelf, LOL.
If you decline the repair and your vehicle gets stolen, will your insurance company decline to pay? It's rather easy to check the VIN with a manufacturer to see if all recall repairs have been made.
Sounds like a nice feature, though....
Just a thought.
Deke
(An unsatisfied Olds Intrigue owner who likes to commiserate with other GM sufferers!)
I have these - AutoVentShade brand - on a Ranger. On that application at least, they fit inside the window channel, but are held in the channel with tape rather than with tension.
It says if the brake pipe CORRODED at the scoring location the wall can get thin and fail. That IS what it says. NEXT...
The rule states "the device is covered by a non-transparent surface which, when installed, prevents sight of and activation of the device. The covering surface shall be removable only by use of a screwdriver or other tool." I think that's what got them. You don't need a tool to gain access to the release.
I intend to keep mine as-is. Only question I have is, if you take it in for some other warranty work do they automatically check for recalls and do them when it's in the shop for some other repair?
That's been my experience. When I had my TB for scheduled maintenance, they brought up the VIN # and found a recall notice (fuel line clip) and performed the update without even asking me. They informed me about it after the service was completed.
I wonder: Are they required (by law, by GM, by anything?) to perform any necessary recall work?
Not disagreeing, but it makes sense on a certain level. Anyone can use their hands to do something, but most people don't go around carrying wrenches and screwdrivers. You've deterred a certain amount of theft by requiring a tool or at least made the process take longer.
Myself, I'm going to pass on the recall.
Wonder why they never recalled all the millions of GM vehicles (my '86 IROC and '88 S-10 pick-up included) that all have plastic steering columns that, with only a screwdriver, can be busted into and driven off in a minute (or less)!
Looks like they access it thru the diagnostic connector under the dash same as reprogramming the PCM or BCM or reading any codes. They plug in the scan tool select what to reprogram and follow the instructions specific for that module. No disassembly required hopefully.
spdmtr5 "a designer "hose clamp" at the base of the shifter?" I like that!!
Sounds better than a couple of hundred dollars each for steel steering column sleeves I had to buy for my 80's GM vehicles so I could at least have some sense of security after having the IROC "hit" 6 weeks after I bought it. ( Add another $500 for that ins. deductable). Always thought GM should have paid for that. But the dealers were making a killing fixing steering columns and selling Steadfast Security collars. The potential thief shorted out the horn and got scared off in mid-rip-off. Didn't get the car but did lots of damage trying. That's how I found out how easy those 80's GMs were/are to steal.
My wife and I are looking at mid-size SUV vehicles for their extra cargo capacity and the ability to carry our two dogs. We currently
drive a Toyota RAV4, but its a little tight with all our camping gear and the two dogs. I'm looking for some info and advice on a couple
things. First, I'd like some input on the handling/traction of the 2-wheel drive Trailblazer in snow or slick conditions. I'm concerned about fishtailing as my wife will be the main driver and we live in the wintry northeast. I'm not sure if I want to spend the extra $$$ to go for the 4-wheel drive. Also, Chevy offers traction control on the 2-wheel drive model for 2003. Does anyone have experience with that?? Does it prevent fishtailing?
I am also concerned with "real-world" fuel economy (not those theoretical EPA figures). Please let me know what kind of average
mpgs your getting and if you've got 4-wheel or 2-wheel drive.
I appreciate any advice you all can offer. Hopefully, I'll be able to
return the favor some day after we've made an intelligent decision on an SUV.
J&S
Frank
Do you know how the traction control works? (I didn't know what it was when I bought my vehicle so please I am not trying to be condescending but I hope to inform you and others who read this). If the wheels start slipping, the traction control kicks in and it limits the power coming from your engine. I think it cuts the gas that you are providing via the pedal. It feels a little weird the first couple of times like your engine is dying but all it is doing is preventing you from revving your engine and slipping the wheels. Works real well. I never fishtailed or felt like the vehicle was going out of control. The only thing I noticed is that sometimes in deep snow it was a little harder to steer in a straight line but I never veered into traffic or anything like that. I always felt safe.
As far as gas mileage, I do the pencil-paper method of calculating and in the cold winter I averaged 13-15 mpg and now that it is warmer I am getting around 16-19 mpg (depends on how much is hwy driving).
Good luck and happy shopping!
H
I have no doubt it varies by application but for the triplets its outside mount.
Envoy
http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/gmgoodwrenchjsp/accessories/accessory- - - detail.jsp?gmaz&make=gmc&model=envoy&year=2003&de- - tail=side_window_deflectors&sid=8068937650798076
Trailblazer
http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/gmgoodwrenchjsp/accessories/accessory- detail.jsp?gmaz&make=chevrolet&model=trailblazer&year- - =2003&detail=side_window_deflectors&sid=8068937650798076
Calibration History for :OPERATING SYSTEM Part Number CVN Bulletin # Description
12577956 N/A N/A operating system
12579357 N/A N/A new software to improve generic scan tool operation
-----------
Calibration History for :ENGINE Part Number CVN Bulletin # Description
12579051 0000BBD3 N/A engine
12579364 000063ED N/A new calibration to improve generic scan tool operation
---------------------
Calibration History for :TRANSMISSION Part Number CVN Bulletin # Description
12579076 00008696 N/A transmission
12580326 00008E4A N/A calibration change for tcc slip and / or dtc 1870
-----------------------
Calibration History for :SPEEDOMETER Part Number CVN Bulletin # Description
12574173 00003C3C N/A speedometer
12580495 0000BB51 N/A part number change only, same content as prior calibration
-------------------------
Calibration History for :SYSTEM Part Number CVN Bulletin # Description
12579156 0000C25D N/A system
12579377 0000256B N/A new calibration to improve generic scan tool operation
--------------------------
Calibration History for :Electronic Throttle Control Part Number CVN Bulletin # Description
12573673 N/A N/A electronic throttle control
Yep, from the pictures you can clearly see that they are mounted on the outside. And when I looked at mine (inside mount) today, I saw that the molding was sort of pushed out at the trailing edge of one of the front visors. Maybe outside is the way to go.
"Yeah, that's just what I'm going to do. Stick my dog in the back window on top of the cargo shelf, LOL."
The cargo shelf can be placed in a lower position near the floor as well as well as in the center area. It can also be installed at an angle as a wall/divider. It may be versatile, but I never use it.
As far as gas mileage is concerned, I have never reset my DIC. After lots of highway driving during the week, it reads around 20. After a weekend of around town, it drops to 16/17. I have 6,000 miles on my '03 Envoy XL SLT and find the average mileage reading accurate when I figure it with a calculator after a fill up, but am thinking that it can't be considering all miles driven since day one. If it did, it wouldn't fluctuate so much or equal my manual figuring.
Any thoughts on this?
I imagine that the average mileage will fluctuate less and less as more miles are driven. Maybe it is fairly accurate.
GAM
A friend at work is interested in purchasing a TrailBlazer around the '04 time-frame, so I told him that I would check these two issues out with the experts on Edmunds Town Hall.
Thanks in advance for any information pertaining to these two inquiries.
Ron M.
The DIC and other such readouts are notoriously inaccurate and are really only to be used for reference and entertainment. I've owned 6 different vehicles from 4 different manufacturers that had the "driver information computer" and all 6 displayed optomistic numbers. The computer's calculations are based on a number of operating inputs (rpm, injector duty cycle, MAF, MAP, tranny feedback, etc.) and are NOT really measuring the amount of fuel going through the system.
The only way to calculate real MPG is to keep a log of fuel usage vs. miles driven, and use a good old calulator.
Dean
That problem seems corrected (although the exterior temperature doesn't always update while driving), but the "stutter" at idle remains. It's back in the shop today.
I think the reasoning behind the dealer's choice of rental vehicles is to make you appreciate your car more when you get it back... it was a Hyundai Santa Fe. No power until you got it up to 3k rpms.. and the turning radius was pathetic. I guess I'm spoiled with the Envoy's great turning radius.
What's everyone's experience with the DIC display? I like leaving the display blank so I notice any messages that pop up. I thought it was supposed to keep whatever setting it had when the engine was shut off. For about a month I had it working great where it would stay blank, but now it always comes back to Odometer when the car is started. How can I get it to stay blank?
I don't know about the moving average idea. I would have expected a bigger jump when I took my first road trip (all expressway), if that was the case. I guess it just depends on the number of data points. I have never had my average go down. When I first paid attention to it at 500 miles, it read 14.2. It has gradually moved to 18.9 at ~17500 miles with the biggest jumps (a few tenths) from the trips.
During cold/winter months: 1 push of the unlock button on the fob unlocks the driver's door; 2 times unlocks all doors and rear tailgate . . .
BUT now that hotter/summer months are here: 1 push of the unlock button on the fob MAY OR MAY NOT unlock the drivers door (solution: keeping pushing the button until the door unlocks!).
I thought the batteries in the fob were low or I was too far away, but it definitely has to do with the temperature outside. Last summer I had problems, but this winter the fob functioned correctly every time. Now that it is warming up, the fob works intermittenly on the 1st try.
In addition, putting the Envoy in PARK does not necessarily mean the tailgate will be unlocked. I would say that about 25% of the time, putting it in park DOES NOT unlock the tailgate. Also, when I have passengers in the vehicle, at times, one or more of the passenger doors does not unlock when the vehicle is put in PARK.
The first time I had the service dept. look at the problem, they couldn't reproduce. But now that warmer weather is here, I believe I will be able to reproduce the problem for them. But I do not hold out much hope that they will be able to correct it.
Oh yes also they will also replace drvers window due to scratches from dirt getting stuck in the molding around the window anyone else have scratches?
tblazed: we are saying the same thing with different words. The brake line scoring is the problem.
funits: does your remote act up everywhere or just in one location? You may be experiencing radio interference at the location where it takes several attempts to unlock the door. Do you have a new ham radio operator nearby?
Frank
Yes, I have tried remotes 1 & 2, and both work the same -- cold weather/winter everything works great, warm/summer you have to hit the button until it works!
It may have something to do with sunlight, or the angle/direction of light in reference to the remote/vehicle?
http://www.trailblazer.homestead.com/
The 4.2 sounds great, considering hp and torque figures, and there are plenty of engines out there that have sleeved piston bores, but these aren't working, for some reason.
And, no, you won't see anything published by GM on this - it would kill sales, of course.