Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Frank
Caflyfish: Warranty Gold is an Edmunds partner. Check out the "Warranty Gold" Claims discussion for a bunch of pros and cons.
Steve, Host
This is only one data point, but my experience with an outside company was very favorable. I had never had an extended warranty on any of my cars before. I purchased a new '96 Ford Windstar and near the end of the factory warranty I got a solicitation in the mail from Warranty Gold. I paid $482 (much higher now) for their top policy for 100K miles. Through 90K miles when I sold the van, they paid right at $3000 in claims (largest item, new transmission). Yes, the Ford service guy bitched a little in dealing with them (I think it's part of their routine), but I never had any trouble getting the service authorized or paid.
That bothers me. Put yourself in the service manager's (not advisor's) position for a moment.
Which one would you prefer:
1) A customer says "I'm having transmission trouble and I'd like an appointment". You say sure, come in tomorrow at 8. The customer gets there, your tech drives the vehicle, decides it needs a new transmission, tells you, you order one. Simultaneously, Enterprise delivers a rental to the customer. The transmission arrives in 2 days, it takes a day to put it in. After the install, you look in the factory warranty book, note the code for "transmission - replace", put that in. Your tech is paid, and your dealership is paid with the monthly warranty reimbursement.
2) A customer says "I'm having transmission trouble and I'd like an appointment". You say sure, come in tomorrow at 8. The customer gets there, your tech drives the vehicle, decides it needs a new transmission, tells you, then after waiting on hold for 40 minutes, you get to tell someone on the other end of the line (who doesn't know a dipstick from a cue stick) what's going on. An incident number is logged. You get a call back at 4:00 that day (takes an hour), with someone telling you an adjuster will be out to see the vehicle, get the customer's authorization to tear down the transmission for photos.
The customer is called, and it is explained that they'll need to authorize $400 for teardown. Customer blows gasket. Wants rental car. You tell them they can't get one until the adjuster OKs the repair. Customer blows gasket. Calls you names.
Customer calls every hour to see if the adjuster is there yet. No one can give you a name and phone number for the guy, so there's no way to contact him and no way to know when he'll be there. Three days go by, customer moving from simmer to boil, talking about suing you (for what, I don't know).
Adjuster shows up, takes 2 hours worth of photos, goes to lunch, then comes back and makes a 1 hour phone call. The repair is approved, but the adjuster can't give you an authorization number or amount.
You call the warranty company again. They approve a rental car, but only $20 a day (that'll be fun to tell the customer). They approve the repair, but won't pay your tech for teardown because they're going to replace the transmission. Instead of getting a reman unit through your parts department, they get a USED unit from a salvage place (because they CAN). One week later, the transmission arrives and must be cleaned before installation (not a good sign).
The transmission is installed. Total down time, nearly two weeks.
Your shop is now on the hook for parts and labor for a used transmission from a salvage yard - congratulations.
Customer picks up car, billing information mailed immediately to warranty company. Warranty company finally pays bill 90 days later - accounting lady is very angry with you, as is general manager.
Or worse yet, warranty company (simply an insurance underwriter) goes out of business - dealer eats the bill.
** Fiction? No, it's happened 8 times, in my dealerships, with engines and transmissions. That's why most dealerships don't want to deal with aftermarket warranties.
I don't want to be someone the service rep hides from when I come in - I don't want to get passed off to the new guy!
I haven't done this but that is the correct pn#.
12497685(List$200)for short wheelbase and
12497686(List$211)for long wheelbase.
Both pn#'s are currently on backorder from GM.
Take this example - suppose you bought 2 new cars for your family, and the price of a 100K warranty was $1500 for each car. Instead of buying the warranties, you put the $3500.00 in an interest earning account for out-of-warranty car repairs. At the end of 100K miles, how would you come out? Gambler's odds are that most times you would come out even or ahead by banking your money and self-insuring rather than buying an extended warranty. Plus, you are not at the mercy of the warranty company and their adjuster, who have a vested interest in paying as little as possible to fix your car. And by self-insuring, there is no risk that your warranty company will go belly up, or force you to litigate to enforce your warranty. Believe me, you are generally in a losing situation when you have to hire an attorney to pursue your claim in court. Even if you win, it may be a dark victory if you end up paying as much in attorney's fees as any award or settlement. Also, if you are paying for your own repairs out of your "banked" funds, at least you are master of the transaction with the service department, and can specify parts and direct the manner of the repair. (And, I'm sure zueslewis would agree that your service department is happier to take cash rather than wait indefinitely for payment, and understands they are beholden directly to you.)
Another point is that if a defect arises within the factory warranty period, even though it is not discovered until after the warranty expires, the defect is still legally covered by the factory warranty. This would also apply if a repair were attempted during warranty but was ineffective, leading to the same failure outside of the warranty.
I think you may want to consider an extended warranty if you just can't afford to pay out of pocket for a given catastrophic repair, or like the peace of mind of having warranty protection, in which case the warranty may be well worth the price.
I figure if the dealer or GM has that much good faith in the relationship after the warranty is out, then the GM Protection Plan must be decent. So far, I haven't had to use the protection plan. If I never do it will be worth the cost just in peace of mind.
'02 Envoy XL SLT now has over 20K miles on it and I still love it.
Happy Motoring,
Chris
So I don't think it is much of a gamble. With the triplets, it is a no brainer.
Frank
You left out half of the "expected value" equation. Along with considering the cost of the extra insurance you have to take into account the potential "payoff" which is basically the product of the probability of making a claim and the "payout" from that claim.
For example, if the probability is 1 in 10 that you will make a claim and the "payout" would be $15,000 then your expected value would be:
EV = $15,000/10 - $1500 = 0
or breakeven. These values are for illustrative purposes but show that if you're going to invoke "gambler's odds" then you have to look at the entire equation.
tidester, host
Extended warranties differ, and some are definitely better than others, but there must be a nice profit margin in selling them. Everybody and their brother sells them nowadays, such as auto insurance companies and credit card companies. The day after after I bought my Bravada and added it to my policy, Geico called me and pitched their extended warranty. If they are profitable, it might mean they don't pay out that much.
And, no, I don't work for GM in their GMPP division.....
Absolutely! I think it was Zues who made a pretty good case for that!
tidester, host
1 out of 4 large repairs, "covered" by private warranty companies, were denied in my presence.
I predict a huge recall coming sometime in the future. Anyone going in for warranty repairs or recalls should mention wiper problems to at least get it documented if not replaced.
When I picked up my 2002 Envoy slt I noticed the wipers would do their own think when going over bumps and around corners. I made a previous posting regarding this. I watched the tech open it up and a minimum of a cup of water comes pouring out. Had two motors with this problem! The second one he put some caulking around the seal. I guess the water moves around and makes contact to actuate the motor! I have to wonder when the problem occurs at GM or the supplier?. I had never driven the truck! Does the wiper fluid feed run through it? What colour was the fluid coming out of yours? Mine was a rusty colour? Never had the problem since. What if the wipers failed because of this while in the middle of a 12 lane hiway? Who is liable for any collision that occurs? This is scary!
I moved from a Subaru Forrester to the TB. What I miss from the Forrester is the gas mileage and the lateral support in the front seat backs. The Forrester averaged 26mpg over 38,000 miles. So far the TB has just over 2,600 miles. I don’t keep track of the first 1,000 miles of driving, so my fuel mileage records start at the 1,000 mile mark. As of yesterday when I filled up it is averaging 20.62mpg for 1,607 miles (I keep a logbook in the car (I mean truck) then input it into an Excel spreadsheet)). My mpg is higher because I live 15 miles from downtown Cheyenne which means I’m in the boonies, I mean prairie, so about 8 of those 15 I’m doing 55mph on a narrow county road. I’m taking a quick trip to California next week to do some family research (photograph headstones). I’ll let you know how the TB performed and what the gas mileage was.
I love driving my TB. The major selling point was the front legroom; I’m 6ft 4in tall. My best friend bought a Tahoe Z71 the same day I bought the TB. My TB has more legroom than his big Z71!
When the TB is going up hills (these are Wyoming hills at higher elevations like 5, 6, and 7 thousand feet) it downshifts a lot. I guess that is because of the 3.42 axel and the low oxygen level.
I have had some problems. Like the door gasket for the right rear door was coming loose and the washer nozzle on the rear wiper slid towards the motor pivot kinking the hose and not washing the window. Both problems fixed at the dealership. My TB doesn’t have a vibrating gas peddle, yet. At what speed does this happen? It has faltered only once when I stepped on the gas from a stop. One night driving home with the high beams on I didn’t see the coal black steer standing broad side in my lane until the last minute. I braked hard, did a hard left and a hard right to avoid going off the road surface (no shoulders). That maneuver threw out the camber on the steering. So I’ve already had a wheel alignment AND a headlamp alignment. Oh, didn’t hit the steer, it turned and went back off the road.
Because I’m deaf in the right ear and need a hearing aid in the left I haven’t taken OnStar up on it’s calling plans, besides they want too much. When OnStar calls because of an accident or when they call back because the signal was broken what does the radio say? I have noticed when I have an incoming call (don’t know from whom) the radio says “phone”. Oh, the radio is the Bose system (I don’t use it because I can’t hear the full frequency spectrum). Will the radio say “phone” or “OnStar”? I sent OnStar an email and they don’t know, they just said they can get a hold of me when they want to. I don’t know how if the radio says “phone” and I don’t answer because I don’t have any minutes paid for.
Can the DRL be turned off AND still have the automatic headlights? Using low beam for the DRL is going to reduce the life of the bulbs and they are not easy to replace.I wouldn’t want to try replacing them in a Wal-Mart parking lot like I did for the Forrester last year when I was in Pennsylvania.
When I bought the TB I also bought Major Guard for 60 months or 100,000 miles. I’d rather deal with the manufacture on extended warranty problems than some insurance company. I don’t like to hassle; I just want to have my car (oops, truck) fixed. I know there are things GMAC won’t cover and that is acceptable. I want the major assemblies which cost major $$$$ covered and I believe they are with Major Guard.
As for the engine problem (cylinder sleeves), is it happening to 2003 engines? The sticker says my build month is 03/03 and I found paperwork in the glove box labeled “cockpit line’ dated 03/28/03.
Sorry to take up so much space. The rest of my inputs will be shorter. Sorry if the spacing may look wide, I wrote this in Word and copied and pasted it here.
Richard
" I watched the tech open it up and a minimum of a cup of water comes pouring out. Had two motors with this problem! The second one he put some caulking around the seal."
The used one I took apart was "caulked" all around the cover with a black tar substance. That's not where the water gets in. It gets in thru the electrical connector. You can see the motor and gear [non-permissible content removed]'y and the connector thru the cowl vent openings right there, exposed to the elements!
. " I guess the water moves around and makes contact to actuate the motor! I have to wonder when the problem occurs at GM or the supplier?." Whenever the vehicle is sitting outside in the rain! Like, on the dealer's lot.
"Does the wiper fluid feed run through it?" No. It just does the wiping.
" What colour was the fluid " Orange-Red rust colored residue water line inside the case and 1/2" or so of the edge of the circuit board where it had been sitting down in the water. No doubt, the rusty water is conductive! The wiper motor speed is controlled by a stepped voltage from a resistor ladder in the turn stalk switch, but if conductive water gets in the wrong place on that PC board it will likely turn on the wiper motor when it's supposed to be off, or cause erratic operation.
I wonder what extreme conditions the circuit board is designed to operate in. There must be some "acceptable" limits in temperature and moisture that it can operate in. I'm sure it can take a degree of moisture laden vapour but is not designed to operate as a submarine. If you say its open to the elements then i'll bet it is not been tested for -30*c, ice, water, salt and road crap. Boy wouldn't that be a nice time for it to fail!
What can we plug the hole with....more caulking?
How about 10ft of duct tape.....now thats about as high tech as the over looked problem!
Someone recently did.
2002envoy May 27, 2003 1:55pm
Frank
Take care,
Elevatorguy
MSRP incl dest chg of 625 = 35,050
Paid 32,150 - 3,000 rebate - 500 bonus cash - 502.09 GM Card rebate - 9,500 trade (1999 Honda CR-V EX w/ 67K)
= 18,647.91
get a grip, quit staying up so late, get some sleep and when you wake up, go get a job or an education.
Seriously, for a politically correct person, you're being awfully offensive to some nice folks talking about their vehicles.
tidester, host
No. Terrorism is off topic. If you want to discuss that issue relative to SUVs please visit the I don't like SUVs, why do you? topic.
tidester, host
This is getting to be a hassle as the kids have learned that when mom's widow goes down to try their own window controls, those little buggers are smarter than we give them credit for! We have a 3000 miles long road trip looming in July and I sure would like to keep the back window locked with each of us in the front having control of our windows.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Don 2003 TB Ext
This is getting to be a hassle as the kids have learned that when mom's widow goes down to try their own window controls, those little buggers are smarter than we give them credit for! We have a 3000 miles long road trip looming in July and I sure would like to keep the back window locked with each of us in the front having control of our windows.
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Don 2003 TB Ext