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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

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  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,555
    Here's another oil change link from the EPA.

    In case you've missed the buzz about displacement on demand, here's a recent article from Motortrend:

    Displacement on Demand Arrives in 2005 GM SUVs

    Steve, Host

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  • dse1dse1 Posts: 22
    I also had this problem, at a relatively low torque (~80 ft*lb), lug split right off. (REAL INCENTIVE TO ROTATE TIRES, HUH?????) Dealer replaced it under warranty, no questions asked (it had already been in for 25-30 days of service before that). Anyone know if there are discounts on the GM extended warranties for those of us with potentially faulty engine cylinder sleeves?
  • dse1dse1 Posts: 22
    Anyone with the 'noisy Tach' have the recall done? Does the recall solve this problem too, or is it simply a PCM reprogram?
  • onlyagirlonlyagirl Posts: 45
    Steve, glad you enjoyed it :) I wondered if any man ever got that explanation...that whole experience( my first SUV..'98 MClass ) was a trip...many more grins would be found with the "rest of the story"

    Pepper50 I wish I'd had those words then but,at the time I just paid ....but when I had my meeting with the MB regional service manager to discuss the many problems with my vehicle and with the service department it was just another round of ammo...he was incredulous that someone actually told me that...

    I'm sure no one cares but given all the discussion I've decided to get the oil changed before my trip...then will let it go longer the next time....I will try to be good and check the oil level more often...but I will do it at home...I just think I would look a bit silly trying to do that at a gas station...trying to look like I knew what I was doing...when I really don't.... :)
  • bingotcbingotc Posts: 3
    doing a 24 hr test drive on 03 tblazer. ext v-8. don't know whether to go with v-6 on ext or the v-8. we don't haul a lot of stuff, but what would have better resale? also which is the better engine. it has home link. what is that?can someone help me make a decision? or point me towards the options i should have or not?
  • canddmeyercanddmeyer Posts: 384
    Recommend V8 on EXT due to 400lbs. extra curb weight
  • hardhawkhardhawk Posts: 702
    Homelink is a built in 3 button garage door & other electronic device control system. You have 3 buttons you can program to operate 3 different garage door openers, electric entrance gates, and/or remote control light switches (you have to buy those in addition if you want those, but not from the car dealer). I love mine. 1st button is for home garage door. 2nd button is for my elderly parent's garage door, and 3rd button is for my office garage door. It is really nice to not have to clip the regular garage door opener(s) to the visor!
  • The price of the V8 isn't much more than the V6 IIRC. $800 or so? Resale may get you another $400 or so out of it. So figure an extra $100 a year for the V8, I'd go with it.

    Good point on the homelink, I couldn't think of anything other than a garage door. Now I can program my dad's garage as a 2nd button.
  • iexplore2000iexplore2000 Posts: 237
    Bingotc,

    Please scroll up a few post and see my critiques concerning our trip in my aunts 6 cylinder TB Ext.

    Personally, I have the Envoy SLT XL V-8 and after making this 700+ mile trip loaded with passengers in the Trail Blazer, the V-8 has my vote!

    Ironically, my aunt mentioned yesterday while riding in my Envoy how she had wish that she purchased the V-8 model. However, after owning a regular length TB LTZ, she assumed that the 6 cylinder had ample power, therefore she never test drove an EXT model.

    Good luck with your choice, I like both engines for their overall smoothness but for a small reduction in gas mileage, the V-8 is definitely worth the price of admission!

    Thanks!

    IExplore2000
  • tblazedtblazed Posts: 945
    "Why not change your tires at 10K. They are used up as much as your oil is at 3K."

    Slightly worn tires won't leave sludge and deposits inside the engine especially if you do a lot of short drives and the vehicle sits sometimes 2 or 3 days, allowing contaminants suspended in the oil to settle out.

    "Nothing wrong changing the oil every 3K, but it sure is not doing your engine any good."

     It certainly won't cause any harm either. I change mine based more on TIME than miles since I don't drive a lot. 3 times a year in Oct, Feb, and June. If I went by GM's Oil Life System recommendation I would be leaving oil in that engine for a year at a time. I don't buy that. Not in MY engine anyway.

     Also, RE: steve_ HOST "Tblazed, I remember your earlier post about the cam phaser system, and that I remember that being from a "legit" source." The source is from the GM Service Manual section about troubleshooting the "DTC" or trouble code that sets if the cam phaser fails to respond properly. Poor oil quality is a possibility.
  • bobbiesbobbies Posts: 34
    UGH...pepper50 the suffix "M" and "K" both mean 1000 in case you haven't heard.
  • tblazedtblazed Posts: 945
    I always thought M was mega for million and K was kilo for thousand. Learn sump'n new...
  • rainersrainers Posts: 50
    I agree Homelink is nice but 1 thing I do not like about it is that it can still be used with the truck turned off. I also own a Mercedes ans when I remove the key from the ignigtion it disables the the door opener.

    2003 TB
    2002 C320
    1971 Cutlass Conv.
  • aldan93aldan93 Posts: 202
    2003 TB LS 4X4
    1997 Nissan
    1990 ariens 9hp rider
    2001 MDT 8HP Snowblower
    20" Murray push lawn mower 3hp
    pair of inline skates
    red rider wagon

    oh a wheelbarrow?
  • gam2gam2 Posts: 306
    2003 Envoy SLT
    1999 Cavalier Z-24
    1994 Camaro Z-28
    1972 Cutlass Supreme
    1968 M274-A4 Military Mule
    1999 18 HP Sabre Lawn Tractor
    1967 10 HP Bolens Lawn Tractor
    1995 3.8 HP Ralley Lawn Mower
    1993 Ryan Weed Wacker
    1974 Cox .049 Airplane
    Numerous 1/18th scale Diecast cars

    Gee, this is silly!

    GAM
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,555
    Any new owners want to weigh in and tell us about their new GM SUV and sidetrack the silliness?

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  • Here's some pics of the ride. Picked it up Tuesday of last week and have put 1000 miles on it since and absolutely love it. Little rough on the $$$ when it comes to gas, but I'll live.

    I had the aftermarket Delphi Skyfi unit put in. It's an 03 LTZ and didn't come with the $150 Traction Assist option, go figure. The horrid cheap plastic "Trailblazer" logo above the rear wiper control was the perfect mounting spot. I lucked out :)

    http://myweb.cableone.net/brandon1337/dcp_1256.jpg

    http://myweb.cableone.net/brandon1337/dcp_1253.jpg

    http://myweb.cableone.net/brandon1337/dcp_1258.jpg

    Of course it's the best looking one out there ;)
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,555
    It is a nice color! You got enough off MSRP with your rebates to splurge on premium all the time.

    Enjoy the XM too.

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  • aldan93aldan93 Posts: 202
    LOL, I wish more people had a sense of humor!!!
  • Tblazed...if you have had a problem with todays oil and sludge or you have had your oil tested to backup your opinion than that is good to know. My experience is with diesel engines in a pickup. Todays oils will protect beyond 12 months. Up here in ND I think very short trips in the winter would really test the oil. I found it caused the worst samples in my pickup but not enough to lower the change interval. I do not run any bypass filtrations either.

    BTW, I had the head off my diesel engine with over 220K miles. No sludge to be found in fact it was remarkable clean considering how black to oil gets, how long I extend the drains and over 200K miles.

    Oil testing is the oil way to SEE what is going on. Based on what I found in my pickup I will not change oil any earlier than what the computer says. I have never found the manufactures to be anything but ultra conservative with it comes to warrenty issues as a result of PM schedules.

    jjw
    ND
  • gam2gam2 Posts: 306
    This board needs some silliness sometimes IMHO.

    I change oil on my wifes Z-24 every 3000 miles, but she only puts on 3500 miles a year. I'm going to go 5000 miles between changes on my Envoy. That's half what the DIC is telling me and about twice a year. Oil is a LOT better than it was when 3000 mile intervals became all the rage. 3000
    miles on a synthetic is a complete waste of oil. The only ones who even suggest 3000 mile intervals are the car dealers, and you know their reasoning.......$$$$$$

    GAM
  • mcali17mcali17 Posts: 22
    I changed the oil on my 2002 Envoy SLE at 3000 miles, and put in Mobil 1.I reset the Light and figured I would see what happens. At about 11,400 the light came on. So that would mean about 8500 between changes. Which in my opinion is pretty normal, given that the extended service interval on the old 4.3s was 7500.

    The best part about this debate is the whole "Mileage" thing anyway. What does mileage have to do with engine wear? Nothing, what the industry should due is add hour meters. Then between your hours and your mileage you would have a much clearer picture of what kind of miles have been put on a vehicle.

    How good can it be for the oil if a car idles for an hour a day in the heat on a 15 mile trip? What does the 15 miles show?? Nothing....

    Just my $0.02
  • ficussficuss Posts: 541
    Does anyone have facts concerning use of one touch power windows? Are they allowed to be one touch closing? I just bought an Infiniti G35 and the one touch function will raise any window, without reversing if something is in the path of the window. I have asked about the function on the Infiniti board, but I think more people read this forum. I performed a test and put a hamburger bun in the path of the drivers window after pushing the one touch up button. The window sliced through the bun like it wasn't even there. I hate to think what would happen to a childs arm or finger.

    Frank
  • redline65redline65 Posts: 693
    The price of the V8 isn't much more than the V6 IIRC. $800 or so?

    Save your money and go with the I-6 if you aren't going to be hauling a lot of stuff or towing anything really heavy. Sure it will take about .5 seconds longer to get to 60 mph but you will have $1500 (MSRP) more in your pocket, and save 1-2 mpg in gas (10%?). However, I would suggest the 3.73 or 4.10 rear axle ratio. It'll get you off the line a little quicker.
  • When does the "break-in" period stop and gas milage get to the point that can be expected for the rest of the life of the car (generally speaking)?

    Or am I just dumb and making that up about getting better gas milage after approximately X miles.

    And a good point on the auto windows. I wish they went up automatically (er if they do, I haven't figured it out). I really wish there was a "break-point" on the auto down. My mum's 00 Jeep Grand Cherokee has a good feel. You push it down until you feel resistance, then push until you hear it click to make it auto go down.

    In the TB it's hard to get it to go down just a little, without having it go down all the way.
  • tmac8tmac8 Posts: 32
    Interesting link on D.O.D. I was planning to trade in my 2002 Envoy in three years for a new one, but now I think I'll either grab a 2004 or wait long enough to evaluate the D.O.D. on the 2005's. Looks good on paper, but then doesn't everything ? Here's a thought; If they're going to cut out half of the cylinders at cruising speed, then why not bump the HP output to 375 or so ? Then you would have P.O.D. (Power on Demand). Wouldn't that be great. Thanks again Steve.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 40,555
    Ok Tmac8, let's get GM to stick a turbo on the DOD systems. Get to enjoy the best of both worlds, eh?

    Brunopuntzjone, I haven't played with my spreadsheet lately, but my mpg on my minivan has gone up from day one basically. Last I looked, it was still going up - a tiny increment, but up. I was at 20.3 lifetime at 20k and 21.2 at 75k.

    fwiw, I went from around 14 to 20 mpg over the first 17,000 miles.

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  • tblazedtblazed Posts: 945
    "Tblazed...if you have had a problem with todays oil and sludge or you have had your oil tested to backup your opinion.."

    Last time I checked, an oil analysis cost $25-30. I can change the oil and filter for about $15 myself so I did not think the analysis was cost-effective. I change it more than once a year due to my short drives and the truck sitting sometimes for a few days at a time. My reasoning for that is 1) moisture that condenses in the engine as it warms up and doesn't always get hot enough to evaporate off that water, and 2) during cold operation up to fully warmed up, closed loop condition, the engine is running more rich, contributing to more carbon buildup in the oil. Regardless of how good todays oils are, they still get contaminated with the normal by-products of the combustion process. My opinion is culminated from over 35 years of vehicle ownership and maintenance, studying a lot of manuals, and asking a lot of questions.
  • tblazedtblazed Posts: 945
    "I performed a test and put a hamburger bun in the path of the drivers window.." Maybe test it with a roll of paper towels? I think that's how they test garage door opener(closers) to make sure it won't crush a person or animal in the path. Obviously the power window has to have enough power to run the window up with a certain amount of normal drag. I think on the auto-up windows, the system monitors the window motor current. If something restricts the window movement up and the current increases above a certain amount, it will sense that and stop and reverse the window.
  • redline65redline65 Posts: 693
    A hamburger bun by itself probably doesn't have enough resistance. Maybe try a Big Mac or Whopper.
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