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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

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Comments

  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    I went from 245 to 255's. No motor/speedometer problems. I don't have the LTZ or 17" rims, but I remember my tire dealer strongly doubting there was enough room for anything taller than 255's. My tire dealer also carried the Cross Terrain and they are more expensive than the Michelin LTX M/S, but he advised the LTX is proven better tire. Probably would save you $25 per tire. I've been using the LTX for years and and no problems.

    Do you have a weblink for that rear sway bar? How much did it cost and how high did you have to get car off ground to install?
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    Very common to downshift while cruising and going up steep hill or long grade with these vehicles. I don't think it is harming anything. Normally the motor will get by with one downshift, but mine has downshifted two gears to maintain cruise speed while climbing a long or steep hill. 3.73 would probably have downshifted twice as well for you. I used to have a JGC V-8 (5.2) and it never had a need to downshift unless I was towing 3500 lbs or more...I believe it had a 3.92. I actually don't mind the downshift...it snaps my head back with power!!!
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    Computer be a little off and there could be a delay in downshifting or finding first gear when your vehicle is stopped. When it finally finds first gear, it may cause a bumping sensation Try this: When your vehicle is completely stopped, try manually shifting to 1st gear while still applying brakes. Let us know if the bumping continues. It's not going to hurt anything to test this way...I would experiement with this a few times at several stop lights or in your neighborhood. Is yours a 4X4? If so and the problem continues as above, then front and rear drives shafts connecting to transfer case may not be solid or secure.
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    It could be the brake master cylinder or a vacuum leak in one of the brake line hoses. ***Or it could be nothing...Mine used to feel very similar as you describe when I bought my new TB back in 2002. Probably took me 6 months to get used to the feel. So far, still no problems and have 52K miles on my brakes.
  • ross1962ross1962 Member Posts: 229
    I have to caution you on the Michelins. I just installed the Michelin ATX M/S on my TB (I understand they use the same carcass as the Cross Terrains). These replaced the stock BFG Open Trails. The ride is now a lot mushier, more body roll and still tend to tramline (follow the grooves in the freeway)after 1500 miles. Just gets worse the faster I go. Nice around town though. I also think if you go up a size, without going down in profile to a 60 series, that situation would just be worse due to the soft sidewalls.
    I think I'm going to go ahead and install the Hotchkis kit based on your and other members' positive reviews to try and firm up the ride a bit. Did you install the kit yourself? If not, what did it cost to have it installed?
  • ross1962ross1962 Member Posts: 229
    I wonder what the top end of these things would be if there was no restrictor? 130mph?

    Easily. Comes up to the limiter very quickly. This is a sweet engine for sure.
  • allenrallenr Member Posts: 89
    Ordered last week, should be here any time now :) Can't wait to get it installed on my Bravada!

    Allen

    Allen
  • seifordseiford Member Posts: 68
    I don't think the tranny is trying to find first gear because the 'bump' repeats itself every 20-30 seconds as long as I'm stopped at the red light.

    I've also had this 'bump/surge' happen when the tranny is in Reverse. Per GM's request, I kept a log of the events for a few weeks.. but then they never wanted to see it.

    The only pattern (at least for our vehicle) is that the 'bump/surge' occurs when the vehicle is relatively cold, about 1-2 miles after starting it up in the morning. Also seems to be worse in the winter months (Minnesota).

    It's really been disappointing that GM won't disclose any information to us about this issue. Are they really working on a fix? Or does it require a whole transmission rebuild and they hope the car goes past the extended 100,000 miles before it blows up?
  • hardhawkhardhawk Member Posts: 702
    My Envoy is behaving like yours. The transmission stutter only occurs when the car is cold and is very intermittent. If we are not going to get a fix, I would at least like the 100,000 mile letter to cover my hind end. This is the 1st car I have ever bought the extended warranty on, and I have already used it, so I am glad I did. Overall, I still like the Envoy because the pros still outweigh the cons in my book. I have great dealer who does its best to work with me, so I really don't get too stressed out about things.
  • hardhawkhardhawk Member Posts: 702
    My battery died at 38 months and 38,700 miles. I had the garage down the street where I get my oil changed replace it since the dealer is 35 miles away. Since the battery was replaced, the Envoy runs horribly rough at first startup in the morning. It is fine after I rev it a few times, but if I tried to drive before I get rid of the roughness I feel certain it would stall. Any ideas or comments? It was running very smoothly before the battery died. The other odd thing is that when they were replacing the battery, the headlight washers kept coming on on their own and squirting the repair man. That happened 3 times to him and once to me when I jumped the Envoy to get it to the shop. Why would they do that on their own?
  • scottc454scottc454 Member Posts: 356
    Do you have a weblink for that rear sway bar? How much did it cost and how high did you have to get car off ground to install?

    I didn't have to jack it up at all to install it. However, I did have to jack up one side a little afterwards in order to make room for my torque wrench.
  • wpkelleysrwpkelleysr Member Posts: 51
    Thanks twinrotts.... I'm going to look for mine and see if I can replace it myself....

    - WPK
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    Did your battery have the acid leak when it died? If so, then review my msg #15113. My battery acid leaked and everything went haywire, including wipers coming on/off by themselves. I figured it was because the low battery acid in the battery when I drove it to dealership after I jumped the battery. My electronic transmission was all wack as well...shifts so rough the steering wheel was bouncing.

    My vehicle did run a little rough for the first couple miles (20 minutes) after I picked it up from dealership after new battery installed. It came very close to stalling a few times, but after a few days everything back to normal. How long ago was your battery replacement?

    I remember reading past posts that described that some of these vehicles have to re-program PCM. Not sure if I believe that since mine re-learned everything after a few days of driving. On the other hand, this is my first vehicle that ran rough and differently a few days after installing a new battery! My other vehicles were faster learners!!
  • bobfishbobfish Member Posts: 48
    Installed my Hotchkis rear sway bar today ,fairly simple procedure but can't figure out how to install the front sway bar bushings that came with the kit. The bushings are bigger than the stock sway bar brackets by about half an inch and the diameter of the hotchkis bushing is larger than my front sway bar.I need some advice from you guys who have installed this on your TB or Envoy, I have a 2004 Envoy SLT 4 wheel drive.Help!!!
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    "bushing is larger than my front sway bar...I have a 2004 Envoy SLT 4 wheel drive.Help!!!"

    I believe the front bushings you have will only fit the 2002-03 models. One thing I remember noticing when I was looking at some '04s, they changed the front bar to a solid, but smaller diameter bar that goes through the frame rather than mounted on the bottom of the frame with U brackets, like on my '02. That would be an issue you would need to call Hotchkis about. If they are aware of this change between model years, possibly they can come up with some proper bushings to fit the newer style front bar.
  • hardhawkhardhawk Member Posts: 702
    My battery had not leaked at all. It just died, but OEM batteries usually die at about 3 years, so it was not a suprise. The battery was replaced late last week, but I was out of town in another vehicle all weekend. I will see how it runs today, it may be in the re-learning mode and be just fine after more driving. I only live a mile from my office so have not put even 20 miles on it since the battery was replaced.
  • ficussficuss Member Posts: 541
    hardhawk, that's a pretty general statement about OEM batteries. I can't recall ever having to change out an OEM car battery in such a short time. There are variables in all cars which will determine battery life, such as how well the battery is cooled, how fully the battery is charged etc. Also, these cars are so technical I would question if the batteries are really bad to start with. I've seen many batteries changed when the cable clamps, or the charging circuits were at fault. Reading some of the past 15,000 comments here, I would certainly check the battery cables, the ignition switch, the automatic load level compressor circuit just to name a FEW possible causes for a "dead battery" condition.
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    Do you still notice the bump/surge while sitting in neutral? Is your's 4X4? Do you recall reading if any TB's are having this problem? Seems like the comments are coming from Envoys via the recent posts...but these vehicles use same drivetrain. Surely someone on this forum has experienced and found a solution. I would not like it if mine was acting this way.
  • hardhawkhardhawk Member Posts: 702
    I realize it's a general statement, but all 7 new cars/trucks I have owned since I started buying cars in 1976 have had the OEM batteries last no more than 40 months. I had all the connections, etc. checked when the battery was replaced and everything was fine, it was just that the battery itself failed the standard battery test when the testing equipment was used on it. I replaced the OEM battery with one that has significantly more capacity than the original. Let's face it, the car companies are only going to put in a battery that will get them past the 36 month warranty period. Otherwise they would put in higher quality batteries at the factory. I'm not complaining, I just plan to replace the battery after 3 years on any new vehicle I may buy based on my experiences. I replace my hoses, belt(s) and filters on a regular schedule before they go, but with the batteries I usually wait until there is a problem. The good news is that the rough idle problem I described earlier has gone away, so the engine management systems must be getting reset after losing power.
  • seifordseiford Member Posts: 68
    No, I haven't had the problem occur when in neutral.. but since it's intermittant it's hard to say whether that's a good troubleshooting method.

    I'm not sure if any Trailblazers are having this issue. But I know there are many posts on this board from Envoy owners experiencing this problem, and a brand new '03 Envoy I had as a loaner for a day did it too!

    No one has ever posted a message stating theirs has been fixed.

    2003 Envoy SLT
    4x4
    3.73 gears
    locking differential
    auto-leveling susp.
  • dunnodunno Member Posts: 2
    Check those torsion bars!

    I was sick with the fact that my Envoy had such excessive body roll. I took it to the dealer 3 times explianing my concern. Each time they said they'd check the suspension and let me know what they found. And each time they said there were no defects found and that my complaint of excessive body roll was a characteristic of the vehicle.

    Not convinced, I took the Envoy to a second dealer for a fourth try at resolving the issue. Lo and behold, they called me back and said they found that the rear torsion bars (the bars that connect the suspension to the fram) had been installed backwards!
  • dunnodunno Member Posts: 2
    Check those torsion bars. It took kme 4 trips to the dealer's shop before they admited the torsion bars were installed backwards....
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    Thanks for the info. I just checked mine and it appears correct, but mine's a TB. Mine does lean a good bit when I have two adults in backseat, but I have learned to adjust the speed at which I take turns. I agree the body lean could be better. My rear sway bar dips in front of rear differential, which looks correct. But I did notice my rear differential leaking where the drive shaft connects to differential hub! What the hell!!! Going to research forum for differential leaks.
  • rad225rad225 Member Posts: 15
    I had the Hotchkis bar installed by a local shop for about $120. Looking at the instructions, I could have done it myself if I had jackstands. You will need some large metric sockets to unbolt the lower link from the axle. Otherwise it looked pretty simple. Here is the link to Hotchkis:

    http://www.hotchkis.net/cgi-bin/EDCstore.pl

    Regarding your tires, what is the aspect ratio on them? (60/65/70?) Thanks for the info.
  • cp1227cp1227 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks everyone for the feedback regarding the "surging when stopped at light" issue. At least I know I'm not alone and there is no known fix. First time I contacted GM Customer Service they referred me back to the dealer. The second time, they told me I had a case number and gave me an individual's name to contact. This was because the dealer had contacted GM Technical Assistance and set up a case. Anyway, I called the person twice already - I left voice mail and haven't received a response yet. Lousy product, lousy service, but big price tag.
  • bobfishbobfish Member Posts: 48
    Talked with Hotchkis,apparently they were not aware of the change in the size of the stock 04 sway bar.They told me the bushings now used are the same as the Chevy SSR and when they release SSR items in January they said call them and they would send me the new front poly bushings at no cost.
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Member Posts: 273
    Anyone replaced their fog lamp bulb on their Envoy? Would like to know how to access the bulb socket to replace the bulb. How do you get behind the fog lamp to access this socket?
  • twinrottstwinrotts Member Posts: 161
    Would replacing my rear sway bar and front bushings do anything to put my Major Guard warrantee in jeopardy?
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    Seems to me the only things that might be effected would be the stabilizer bar links, and if you don't point it out or say anything about the different bar and bushings, they probably wouldn't even notice. Hard to tell if the Hotchkis kit is there if you peel off the "Hotchkis" sticker on the rear bar.

    Those links are about $30 each last time I checked so they aren't a big issue to me.
  • hardhawkhardhawk Member Posts: 702
    My 2002 Envoy at 38 months and 38,000 miles had developed bad clunking noises when hitting bumps or other irregularities in the road, even small ones. The dealer replaced the front sway bar bushings and viola, it's like driving a new one again! I was stunned at how much better it was. I guess it had gradually deteriorated over time until the noises got to me. Truly an amazing yet simple repair. I can only imagine what the aftermarket bars and bushings must do for the car!
  • cbwilshacbwilsha Member Posts: 70
    Look forward of the wheel well beyond the mud guard and you will see the electrical wiring to the light. Follow this wiring to the light socket. Turn socket counter-clockwise and the socket will come out in your hand. Replace bulb, place socket back in light base and turn clockwise to lock socket back in fixture.

    C.B.
  • ylabylab Member Posts: 46
    Heck hardhawk, just had my front & rear replaced on my 2002 Envoy at 17,600 miles....and I had complained about a noise at just over 12,000 miles. Glad the mechanic assigned this time knew his stuff and heard the noise that's been bugging me for nearly 5k miles. Sad part is that I would expect those components to last longer than that....sure glad I have the extended warranty.

    Did you notice the truck doesn't quite lean as much on turns too? (Those sway bars add a good bit of spring rate on turns).

    Ray
  • raleighraleigh Member Posts: 98
    Several points to make, here:

    1. I, too, talked with Hotchkis before I ordered my rear bar several months ago. I told them that according to GM,the front sway bar on the Envoy/TB had been changed for '04 and was "longer." They said that as far as they knew, there were no significant changes. I had my dealer install the bar, shocks and springs ... and they did install the new, bigger front bushings that came with the kit and gave me back the little dinky stock bushings.

    2. Someone also mentioned that the dealer told them their torsion bars were installed backwards! Torsion bars? What torsion bars? This vehicle don't have no stinkin' torsion bars. It has springs instead! (The Jimmy and Blazer had torsion bars.)

    3. As for installing wider tires without changing the profile or wheel size, you will, indeed, be affecting not only the speedometer, but also the overall geometry of the vehicle and the suspension. You want to try to stay as close as possible to the original diameter of the wheel. The formula for finding this is Width x Aspect Ratio = Section Height x 2 = Combined Section Height + Wheel Diameter = Tire Diameter.

    For example, with a 245/65R17 tire, the first number is the width of the tire in millimeters, measured from sidewall to sidewall. The second number is the aspect ratio. This is a ratio of sidewall height to width. In the example above, the tire is 245 mm wide. Multiply that by the aspect ratio to find the height of one sidewall. In this case, 245x0.65=159.25mm. The last number is the diameter of the wheel in inches.

    To figure the outside diameter of a tire, take the sidewall height and multiply by 2,(remember that the diameter is made up of 2 sidewalls, the one above the wheel, and the one below the wheel) and add the diameter of the wheel to get your answer. In this case, a 17" wheel is 431.8 mmm so the diameter of the stock tire/wheel combo is 750.3. If you went to a 265/65R17 tire (assuming it would even fit), you would be looking at a total diameter of 776.3.

    To my mind, if you wanted to keep the 17" wheels and not go to a "plus-1" setup, you would be better off with something like a 255/60R17 tire ... which would give you a diameter of 737.8 ... and should make the truck slightly quicker in acceleration.
  • scottc454scottc454 Member Posts: 356
    ... and they did install the new, bigger front bushings that came with the kit and gave me back the little dinky stock bushings.

    It's not a question of size here. The new front bushings are the exact same size as the old ones. They have to be, because you didn't change the front bar. The difference is that the new ones are polyurethane instead of rubber - much more rigid.
  • dooper67dooper67 Member Posts: 26
    The DRL are awfully bright and seem no different than the headlights. Is that the way its supposed to be.
    Jerry
  • hardhawkhardhawk Member Posts: 702
    Ray:

    Yes, the truck does handle better too. Isn't it amazing what a little bit of new rubber will do?
  • wxman4wxman4 Member Posts: 53
    Just moved to AZ from AL about 6 wks ago. Seems to me the truck is running hot now. Used to run about 1/2 to 1 line below the 210 mark. Very rarely saw it go above 210, even while towing my boat in AL. Here in AZ anytime the temp outside is near 100 it will run about 1 line past 210. In stop and go traffic it will go as high as three lines above, which looks to be about 230. Once it gets "hot" it will stay in that 225 to 230 range for an entire 25 to 35 minute commute. On the highway it never gets above the 210 mark. I know the newer engines run hotter, but it almost seems like the fan is not kicking in. When it gets down to 90 or so at night it holds steady just below the 210 mark as it always did.

    Any others with AZ type heat experience to compare?
    BTW, 26k miles and the AC works impressively.

    Thanks for any inputs
    Wxman
  • mookie14mookie14 Member Posts: 252
    Hey guys i hope you both can help me or anyone for sake of it. I got a problem in my 03 tblazer now when i turn the steering wheel i hear a like whirling sound back and forth rubbing or something. Could this be the same thing you guys heard with yours??? Or anyone for that matter Plus also im low on power steering fluid. Plus i have a gmpp major guard will they pay for the whole thing rental, repair etc.Im in ohio and the service ctr here i mean you have to jump through hoops to get these jerks to help you i do appreciate any help on this guys or gals hahaha
  • twinrottstwinrotts Member Posts: 161
    I had a cyclical sounding rubbing sound that seemed most pronounced making a left turn, although at times you would hear it rolling straight. Dealer found uneven wear in the brake pads and rotors to be pitted. Outer pads had 8mm inner pads were down to 3mm. Blamed the condition on the calipers not releasing evenly likely due to the NE winter conditions over 2 years. At 35700 miles, I needed a complete brake job.
    While working on the rear, noticed the early signs of the rear axle seals beginning to fail and replaced those under warrantee.
    Curious to know if others are needing brakes at this type of mileage
  • hardhawkhardhawk Member Posts: 702
    I am at 39000 miles in 39 months and have not needed brakes yet. Will have them checked closer at next service.
  • obravadaobravada Member Posts: 37
    I've had my 2002 Bravada since November 2001, currently have 45k miles, brakes have not been replaced and tires are the originals. I live in Connecticut and enjoy the weather extremes that are typical in this region - Hot muggy summers with cold snowy winters.
  • rad225rad225 Member Posts: 15
    I just had my brakes checked at 51K miles. Mechanic noted that vertical groove in middle of front pads is still visible, pads are about 50% worn. I have a 2002 TB, most miles have been highway in dry areas (Arizona and Nevada). I get a very small squeak from the front wheels when I turn corners at low speeds, otherwise no problems or pulsing.
  • previousamigopreviousamigo Member Posts: 130
    The rubbing and grinding noise when turning is exactly what I had. It slowly kept getting worse. I could even feel and hear it when in park and just turning wheel. Make sure you have the service guy sit in the drivers seat and test it while you are explaining it to them.

    The repair invoice only stated that steering column failed that I remember. The new steering column started leaking power steering fluid less than 2 months later. It was still under warranty and it took 11 days to get the next steering column. I drove an '04 TB rental and that drove worse than my '02. I haven't had any problems with this 3rd column since it was put in 2 months ago.

    Let me know if you need exact details of the invoices and I will hunt them down.

    So is anyone running XM through their factory radio and how do you like it?
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    Thanks for the link. I have 255/70/16. I thought about going to 65's, but I left it alone and remained at 70. Vehicle drives the same, no real gains or losses. I just like the look of a little larger tires.

    Host- What's this information that when we sign in forum to post, we are not going into a secure site?
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    My 02 TB is at 52K (mostly city 0-50 mph trips) and brakes holding up well. I've had Durangos and JGC's that needed new pads and rotors every 30K miles. 52K miles with original pads is pretty impressive for an SUV. Bottom line: people drive and work their brakes differently. If I could get my wife to get 50K miles on her brakes I would be happy, but that's another story.
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    I was changing my oil over the weekend and while looking over my vehicle I noticed my rear differential is damp where the drive axle connects. I'm not experiencing any problems or side-effects such as whinning rear-end. I checked fluid using finger technique and fluid seems adequate. No dripping puddles in garage either. I am not an certified auto mechanic, but if anyone has any thoughts it would be appreciated. It's probably normal slinging of lube with the rubber seals etc. Any TB owners experience?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    What's this information that when we sign in forum to post, we are not going into a secure site?

    I haven't seen that - I'll look for it.

    tidester, host
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    Thanks. After typing in password, window pops up and states:

    Security Alert - "You are about to be re-directred to a connection that is not secure. The information you are sending to the current site might be re-transmitted to a non-secure site. Do you wish to continue?"

    If you choose no, then you cannot sign in Thanks.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    That sounds like something coming from your browser or possibly XP's SP2 new security features.

    tidester, host
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The security window started around the time My Edmunds got started. It's a result of Edmunds selling Info-Paks and other information on the site and revamping the sign up procedure a few months back. There's a secure part of the site for collecting your credit card info, etc. if you decide to buy an Info-Pak.

    If you check the remember me on this computer box, you won't see it again.

    Steve, Host
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