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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

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Comments

  • hardhawkhardhawk Member Posts: 702
    A Hemi equipped Grand Cherokee SRT8 has those tail lights you see pulling away from you. But, it still doesn't look as good as your SS.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    The owner of SS #1 has cracked the PCM... and is getting some amazing times from the LS2. So, I wouldn't pronounce the SRT8 Jeep the winner just yet...
  • hardhawkhardhawk Member Posts: 702
    That would be interesting to read about. I'm sure that both of those vehicles could be tweaked to deliver better performance. Isn't is amazing that for a reasonable amount of money there are two SUV's that can perform at the level these two stock vehicles can? It is just mind blowing to me. What is next!?!
  • snokingsnoking Member Posts: 47
    We have a 2004 Rainier V8, I picked up four take off wheels out of Arizona. I put Les Schwab 245/65R17 studded Wintercats SST's on them. These are the Cooper Discoverer M&S.
    Dot Code "UP" - COOPER TIRE & RUBBER CO FINDLAY OHIO US

    Reference http://www.harriger.com/tires.htm

    Cooper makes it in the standard 255/60R17, but Les Schwab does not have that size. At any rate, I am very happy with the way the vehicle handles with these tires. Went skiing Friday and Saturday. Played around in the Stevens Pass parking lot last night, and it seems to handle well in the snow. Handling is very good and the mushy handling of the Michelin does not seem present with the snow tires. I am going to try 35 lbs all the way around in the spring for the Michelin's.

    The road to Mount Baker ski area is a very twisty and the Rainie handles very good with the snow tires. The V8 makes for spirited performance on roads like this, with great passing acceleration when needed.

    To review the Rainier a bit:

    1. Head light push for highbeam pull for low is really bad. What happen to click high - click low. Wonder if there is a different GM switch that could be installed.

    2. Storage and cup holds in the fronts seats in very lacking.

    3. Seats could have been more contour ed.

    4. Would have liked the cruise control on the steering wheels, but it is already full of buttons.

    5. Windshield washer fluid capacity to limited.

    6. Folding down the rear seats requires moving the front seats forward.

    After having the Rainie for 10 months. I give it a 9 out of 10 rating.

    Pluses:

    1. V8 smoothness and power.

    2. Quiet on the road.

    3. Size and turning radius.

    4. Looks!

    5. Bose Stereo with XM radio.

    6. Buick Service.

    SNOKING
  • snokingsnoking Member Posts: 47
    I sure would like to know if a switch could be installed to lock the transfer case in low traction conditions? SNOKING
  • gam2gam2 Member Posts: 316
    Yeah, I'm amazed at the 12 mpg they get on premium unleaded......... :(
  • raleighraleigh Member Posts: 98
    Me too. However, I am intrigued by the suspension changes GM made to the SS to make a really decent handler. Does anyone know if these can be retrofitted to the "regular" triplets? Also, I see where they went with Corvette brakes. Does anyone know if these are just the pads or calipers and rotors? They could make a very nice upgrade. :shades:
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Member Posts: 273
    I have put the TB SS front springs on my '05 Envoy Denali. Much better for me than OEM.
    SS brakes are different pads, calipers, rotors, hoses, according to the parts book. I'll be doing this as soon as all parts are available from GM.
  • hardhawkhardhawk Member Posts: 702
    If you are buying this kind of vehicle you shouldn't be worrying about the fuel consumption. World class performance does come with a price. Here in KS the property taxes alone would be a bite, not to mention the insurance.
  • raleighraleigh Member Posts: 98
    01 hoe - I'm curious: why did you just put the SS front springs on your vehicle? What about shocks, sway bars, rear springs, etc., which are, after all, designed to work together?

    I have Eibach springs, Bilstein HD shocks, and Hotchkis sway bar on my '04 Envoy. They lower the vehicle about 1 1/2 inches and it now sits level, not [non-permissible content removed] high. Needless to say, it handles a lot better, but I'm always looking for more.
  • gplumgplum Member Posts: 1
    I have to leave my trailblazer sit for 10 to 12 days at a time. And when I return, the battery will be dead every time. The truc came with a 600 cca battery and the dealer replaced it the last time in, saying that it was just a bad battery...next trip out, 10 days, the battery was dead just like the first time. The dealer now claims that the .025 mv draw on battery from the alarm system will drain the battery if not started every 3 or 4 days.
    Any one else having this problem...Any Ideas ?
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Member Posts: 273
    I often leave my Envoy sit in the garage for several days between starts. No problem with startup.
    Do you have an aftermarket alarm system? That could drain.
    Have you considered a larger capacity battery?
    Are you still under warranty?
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Member Posts: 273
    I put the SS front springs on to replace the Ground Force ones. Now not quite as low as the GF, but the ride and handling are better. Also much better than OEM. Also have the Hotchkis rear sway bar, and the rear is lowered by adjusting the load levelers on the air suspension. Works for me, not sure of results for others.
  • poleslivpolesliv Member Posts: 2
    i am changing the rear brakes on my 02 Trailblazer, but i cannot get the bolts to budge at all. i was wondering if anyone has any suggestion on what to do. i have tried a breaker bar and everything. any suggestions would be great.
    thanks
  • gmoudygmoudy Member Posts: 67
    If you heard the dealer right, .025 mv WILL NOT drain the battery over the period you state enough to the point that it will not start your vehicle. Years ago, I had a similar problem with my Camaro. Had the dealership replace the battery under warrenty. About a month later, it started to act up again. Took back to dealership. They ran tests. They stated that my self installed digital clock was drawing 110 mv and that was causing the problem. NO WAY. I went and bought an aftermarket battery and never had any more problems. Dealers use that as an excuse. Keep on them to find the problem. You might have gotten another bad battery, unluckly. If you get no satisfaction, do what I did and go buy an aftermarket battery with a higher CCA.
  • quarquequarque Member Posts: 41
    Well the dealer's statement is just baloney. First of all, battery drain is measured in Amps or mA (1 milliAmp = .001 Amp) not Volts or millivolts (mV). So if it was .025 mA that is not enough to do anything over 10 days (10 x 24 x .000025 = .006 Amp-hour!). I think the self-discharge rate is almost that! A decent battery should put out 50 amp-hours easily. Ask them how they measured the drain. The proper way is to pull a cable off & connect an ammeter in series with the cable and the battery terminal. Any other method will give erroneous data and measuring Volts is just plain WRONG (unless they used a series resistor in place of the ammeter).

    Either your battery is junk OR it is not being properly charged OR the drain is much higher than they said. I have let my mini-fridge run 24 hours straight and had no starting problems. That thing draws 1 Amp (24 amp-hours total). So it is NOT your alarm!
  • raleighraleigh Member Posts: 98
    I have too many vehicles and not that many places to go, so some of them sit for long periods -- like two or three weeks. The only problem I've ever had starting any of them is with OEM batteries. Replace them with an Interstate Megatron or similar and you shouldn't have any more problems. Of course, it's also a good idea to hook up a mini-charger to make sure the battery stays fully charged.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    The parasitic drain is considerably higher than you are calculating. It can be from 10 milliAmps to 30 mA or so depending on the vehicle.

    From an old April 2002 GM Techlink article-
    "The recommendation for maximum parasitic drain is around 30 mA (0.030 amps). A typical drain today actually falls into the 7 – 12 mA range, even though some vehicles do approach the maximum. Multiply the drain (in amps) by the time (in hours) the battery sits without being recharged. The result is the amount of AH consumed by the parasitic drain. The actual drain may be small, but over time the battery grows steadily weaker. Here’s an example. A vehicle with a 30 mA drain and a fully-charged 70 RC battery will last 23 days. But if that battery is at only 65% of full charge, it is going to last only 15 days before causing a no-start."

    Also if a car battery had been drained down a few times, it's total available capacity will be reduced from doing this. That's why special purpose deep cycle batteries exist. No brand of car batteries like being deeply discharged. I managed to kill an Optima "Red Top" in a vehicle from letting it sit too long between uses. You might want to consider a small battery maintenance trickle charger designed for long term storage to keep on it for extended intervals.
  • seifordseiford Member Posts: 68
    I have some rust forming on the bottom inside lip of all 4 doors. I saw some earlier posts about this.. anyone else have it repaired under warranty?
  • pj41pj41 Member Posts: 2
    I had the same problem except mine was a 2003. It got down to where if it sat for 2 days it was dead as a doornail. I went to Sears and got the biggest cca battery that would fit. Haven't had a problem since.
  • snokingsnoking Member Posts: 47
    New Tahoe looks more like the triplets than the old Tahoe. SNOKING
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    CCA isn't the whole story though. If you let a vehicle sit for extended times, "Reserve Capacity" - how many hours it can sit before a no start condition - is more relevant in that situation. Most batteries that are designed for higher RC and deeper discharging-recharging will have slightly less CA or CCA.
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    I drove by my dealership to see what kind of vehicles are left. Let me tell you the lot was empty! I hope GM across the board did well on red tag event. I saw a few Tahoes and Silverado 1500's. There were two, only two, Trailblazers on the lot and this is a decent size dealership. Does that mean my dealership is in trouble or would you say that is a good sign? It is the only Chevy dealership in town. The Buick/GMC dealership also has very little inventory, has only one Rainer on it and no Envoys! Toyota, the only foreign dealership in town, has full inventory. What is going on?
  • jsc5jsc5 Member Posts: 3
    Just curious...I have an '03 Trailblazer EXT and the dash vents ONLY are not working.......all other vents seem to operate...could this be a resistor problem as well? This problem exists whether the a/c is on or not. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • quarquequarque Member Posts: 41
    NBC nightly news announced last night that for the first time in many years Chevy beat Ford last year in sales and also TB beat Explorer in sales. Maybe that explains the empty lots!
  • rad225rad225 Member Posts: 15
    There is a motorized air damper door under the dash that can fail. You will get air at your feet but not at your face. Try raising and lower the temperature selector from 60 to 90 degrees and see if the heater /AC control system moves the air damper.
    Good luck, hope you are under warranty.
  • jasonzo6jasonzo6 Member Posts: 3
    No help on this? Anyone? :confuse:
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I guess trying to tweak OEM navigation systems is hard; there's occasional similar complaints over in the Navigation / GPS Systems discussion with various makes. You may try searching sites like this one.

    Steve, Host
  • fe3_2300cc_16vfe3_2300cc_16v Member Posts: 2
    I am having the same exact problem. Did you ever find out what the problem was? For the life of me, I can not figure out why (when I cut the wheel hard to the left or right), the vehicle stutters on acceleration as if it can't overcome the resistance in the front cv joints. It's starts bucking and carrying on like something is seriously wrong and ultimately can not negotiate the delivery of torque to the hubs when the cv's are in a maxxed out turn. Other thab that, driving in a straight line is fine.
  • 96blazer96blazer Member Posts: 2
    I had the exact same symptoms on my 02 Bravada - it seems like it is stuck in 4 wheel drive. There are a couple of bulletins on the transfer case. Mine was the actuator motor/sensor which required a new 4wd computer because the replacement is an updated design. Also there is a bulletin on "flushing" the transfer case because the original fluid causes the clutch packs to stick. Bite the bullet and have this done at a dealer. I saw other postings of people complaining about whining sounds from the front wheels - this is the same problem - get it fixed before you tear up your front CV joints!
  • jasonzo6jasonzo6 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks Steve, I didn't realize there were specific forums on those topics, thanks!
  • jsc5jsc5 Member Posts: 3
    Unfortunately, the problem still exists after trying the temp from 60 to 90. Exactly as you said, though, air at feet, but not at face. What would GM or any other part vendor name the air damper? Can't seem to find it, just hoping to get a ballpark price. Thanks for the information.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    Probably what you need is the "mode door actuator" that controls the air through the outlets, part number 89018539. There have been previous messages about this exact thing so you might do a search. There is a new simpler procedure the dealer should know about to replace it in much less time than before.
  • jsc5jsc5 Member Posts: 3
    Thank you very much for the response!
  • 02envoyowner02envoyowner Member Posts: 24
    Sorry, odd Subject line, but didn't know how to phrase it better. :) My 02 Envoy SLT has a very loose feel while driving. Hit a bump and it feels the front wheels/undercarriage are wobbly and loose. I've owned the car since new, but am suddenly very aware of this unsturdy feel. Taking to the dealer next week to have the driver's window repaired (roll it down, sometimes...it doesn't want to go back up). Any tips on how to direct the dealer? Could this be the sway bar issue? Thanks!
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    It does sound like the sway bar.
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Member Posts: 273
    Agree with gmfan, sounds like the front sway bar. Either the bushings or the end links, or both. Do you hear any clunking when turning or hitting bumps?
    If you are at all handy with tools, this is a pretty easy DIY. And I would suggest unless you have a warranty that covers this repair, to replace the end links with Moog links, as they can be greased. The OEM ones can't. Moog will last longer because of this. Moog links cost about $25.00 each.
  • 02envoyowner02envoyowner Member Posts: 24
    Hello and thanks for the replies. I received a call from the dealer -- they replaced the front stabilizer links and half shaft boot. I have an extended warranty.

    Everytime I make a trip in, I always include the bump/surge/clunk....not w/ great hopes of resolution, but it's interesting to hear the report each time (interesting in an exhausting way that is). Yesterday, the reply was "yes, we felt the car clunk and surge forward, and this is normal operation". I was told this is normal behavior as the car settles into position. WOW....When I asked "ok, so mechanically, what is 'settling' and causing this...." I was told, "the car; it's settling". After a round about of tiring lack of logic conversation; ie, he was frustrated that I wouldn't take an ambiguous "normal" behavior rationale, and I was frustrated that he could not explain the mechanical reason for the bahvior, we quit. I did tell him about the Sun Gear issues, and he would not "authorize performing this unless there was reason". So, I suppose the car will need to completely seize before this will be addressed.

    Any solutions to the tiring clunk/surge/normal behavior stuff? I'll just keep noting it on all work requests. But, I do not think this is normal behavior. He told me that all Envoys do it; but stopped short on this when I asked him whether it would occur should I test drive a new Envoy.
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Member Posts: 273
    Glad you got the front end fixed. Regarding the bump etc. does yours have the air suspension in the rear?
    I had an '03 Envoy with the air suspension, and it had the problem you describe with the bump etc. Never got it fixed, bought an '05 Envoy Denali that also has the air suspension and 5.3L V8. No symptoms as yet. No one with '05s complaining on other forums. Perhaps GM figured out the problem and fixed it, just not telling anyone what it was.

    Does sound like the service person is blowing some smoke to avoid direct discussion and possible repair.
  • 02envoyowner02envoyowner Member Posts: 24
    Hi. Yes, my Envoy has the air suspension. One of the times it was in, I was told this was the issue, and they could disable/remove the air suspension. Uuhhhh, that's a costly option to just remove....how about fixing?! I think you are right; there is no fix. The clunk is quite forceful; the first time I felt it, I thought I had been hit. My concern is that something is being damaged. But I have been 'assured' "it is not causing damage". My comfort level is low. Thank you for your reply!
  • seifordseiford Member Posts: 68
    I still have this problem (intermittantly) with our '03 Envoy.

    I escalated the issue up the ranks at GM and they said they had people "working" on a fix. That was 2.5 years ago. They sent me a letter extending my transmission warranty to 100,000 miles and called the issue "closed".

    We even went through the BBB, but since it didn't fall into their 'safety issue' classification, we were denied buy-back (all I wanted was for GM to fix it!).

    I'm still interested in hearing if there's ever a fix for this. It sure is annoying.
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Member Posts: 273
    Also, seems confined to the Envoys as the TrailBlazers don't have the rear air suspension. Haven't heard of them complaining of this problem. I really dislike when I hear "they all do it". Continue to press to drive a '06 and let him/her show you that they also have the clunk, bump thing.
  • cmack4cmack4 Member Posts: 302
    It's been a long time, but I still see some of the old regulars are here after all this time, so I guess that's a good thing! I've been trouble free for over a year, so my perusing the board regularly dwindled. My wife got bit today by our 2002 Bravada. When she went out to start it this morning, the key went in the ignition fine, but would not start. It just flashes the check engine light. The gear selector won't come out of park, and the key will not come out of the ignition when she tries to turn it to the off position. To make matters worse, she called the Roadside Assitance # to get service under the 5yr/60K GMPP warranty, and they said that we didn't have any warranty showing in the system. It took about 5 different phone calls, but I think they finally are reconizing that our original dealer made a mistake and did not enter the information for the protection plan to take effect. Hopefully all turns out okay... I'll keep you posted! Anyone else experience the key issue? At first I thought it was battery related, until I heard the full description. Now I'm thinkineg it's probably a relay or circuit card.
  • 01_hoe01_hoe Member Posts: 273
    Could be several things, but check for bad battery and bad ignition switch. Is the battery origional? If so, should be replaced even if not the cause of the problem.
  • gmfangmfan Member Posts: 188
    Agree, it could be either, but I bet it is the ignition switch realy related since you cannot extract the key. When my OEM battery died (acid leak) last year, I could still extract the key. There were several posts regarding how to resolve the key ignition switch. Sorry to hear of your issue. Let us know.
  • rainersrainers Member Posts: 50
    I have a 2003 TB with Analog/Digital Ready Onstar. I called Onstar today because they finally have an upgrade to Digital Service. This allows you to have better voice recognition and response and allows you to share minutes with your Verizon plan. It also includes OnStar Vehicle Diagnostics where you get automatic monthly vehicle checkups with e-mail reports. When I asked the price they quoted FREE with a 3 year contract of $549.00. Normally it is 199.00 a year so I guess $549.00 is a better deal. You can also transfer any remaining Onstar service to a new vehicle if you buy one down the road. Anyway all you have to do is go to your Chevy dealer and request the upgrade. They will install it and when you pick it up you have to signup for 3 years and pay the dealer the $549.00. Onstar said there would be no dealer install charges and that the $549.00 covers it all. :)
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    Yep... I have not done this yet..before I found out about the program I had already renewed for 2 additional years through May 2007. Their reply basically show that since they will not support analog ONSTAR past Dec 31, 2007 they must give you the upgrade to sell you the renewal. Here is a quote from the reply they sent me:

    "Your vehicle was built with Analog/ Digital-Ready hardware. This hardware is currently eligible for an upgrade to digital hardware. This upgrade will be required for your vehicle to be eligible for service beyond OnStar’s analog sunset date of December 31, 2007. Would you like to hear details about

    Digital upgrade kits are now available for some GM vehicles. Upgrades for these vehicles will be provided to OnStar subscribers with the purchase of a non-refundable, 3-year OnStar subscription."
  • ibraibra Member Posts: 2
    I had (still) the same issue, took it to the dealer last month, they replaced a sensor and upgraded the program. That fixed it for a day or so. Took it back again to the dealer today, after spending some time with the mechanic explaining to him exactly what to do and how to recreate the problem, he was able to understand the issue. He told me that the sensor and program upgrade should have taken care of the issue as per TSB, but it did not!
    Any way, the mechanic got on the phone with GM tech support, he was told to disconnect the power to the "encoder motor" for few minutes and see what happen. Did not work, then they (GM tech) blamed the tires, the mechanic informed them that I did my maintenance on time and that the tire was rotated on schedule, then the GM tech asked the mechanic to install "new" tires on the truck, he said "hell no, it is the damn encoder motor. Only then GM authorized the dealer to replace the encoder motor with new one, too bad, they don't have it in stock, I'll have to go back on Wednesday to install the new one after they get it from somewhere.
    According to the mechanic, there is a clutch (either in or work with the transfer case), this clutch is controlled by a motor, there is an encoder that senses when the wheel is slipping and that it activates the AWD system, the encoder and motor are one unit, therefore I need a new encoder/motor assembly. In my case, the motor is "stuck" and got the clutch to "open" half way which is why I can drive fine in straight line but not on turns specially sharp ones, my revers sucks big time.

    Hats off to the mechanic for fighting for me, looks like when you go to the dealer and they say no to a fix it is actually GM that says no, not the dealer - assuming of course you are under warranty.

    "Smart Track >> Dump Track" - I am driveing AWD for a month now!

    Will keep you posted.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    What mode are you in when you are having this problem? 2WD? A4WD? 4WD? Wife's Envoy won't go in reverse if it's in A4WD on somewhat dry pavement (i.e. backing out of a snow-covered parking spot into a plowed lot). Delaer says normal, I disagree...

    --Robert
  • ibraibra Member Posts: 2
    There is only one mode on the Bravada which is the equivalent of A4WD on the Envoy, however, it is automatic, there are no buttons to activate it. If you can recreate the problem on dry surface, then go back to the dealer and request to demonstrate the issue to the mechanic, he might be able to understand the issue.
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