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Certainly not as good MPG as I had in my Accord V6 (24MPG), or my wives Volvo, but it is an SUV. So far, I am happy with the 17. I keep the current MPG on my DIC on all the time so I can monitor my MPG. My hope is it will make me drive more responsibly and raise my MPG even more. I am a notorious lead-foot...so it will be hard
Hope this helps, and Good luck SUV shopping. You can't go wrong with one of these new triplets.
Component: INTERIOR SYSTEMS:CONSOLE (8/82)
Manufacturer: GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Year: 2002 Make: GMC Model: ENVOY Recall Date: 05/22/2001
Type of Report: Vehicle
Potential Number of Units Affected: 8197
Defect Summary:
VEHICLE DESCRIPTION: CERTAIN SPORT UTILITY VEHICLES FAIL TO COMPLY WITH REQUIREMENTS OF FMVSS NO. 201, "OCCUPANT PROTECTION IN INTERIOR IMPACTS." THESE VEHICLES HAVE A CONSOLE COVER/ARMREST LID LATCH THAT COULD RELEASE AT LESS THAN THE 10G VERTICAL LOAD REQUIREMENT OF THE STANDARD.
Consequence Summary:
IN THE EVENT OF A CRASH, THE CONSOLE COVER COULD OPEN AND THE COVER OR ITEMS STORED UNDER IT COULD INJURE AN OCCUPANT.
Corrective Summary:
DEALERS WILL REPLACE THE CONSOLE LATCH MECHANISM AND INSTALL A STRIKER PLATE.
You can search for vehicle TSBs, recalls, and consumer complaints on the National Highway and Traffic Safety Administration website at:
http://www.nhtsa.org/cars/problems/Central
1) The check engine light has come on at 500 and 1100 miles, and then goes off by the next day. In each case Onstar was notified and they found no problem...
2) Missing plastic covers over the front seat mountings on the floor...minor.
3) Poor gas mileage in the "city"...see previous posting.
4) Drooping headliner just behind the sunroof...others have posted this issue above.
5) Gritty substance under the paint in the door jambs.
Great vehicle overall!
Oddities:
1) When you put CDs in the console you have to put them in sideways where you can't read the labels when you open the console lid.
2) Loose front bumper.
http://www.arifleet.com/production.html#gmtrucks
Nynastar: When my son puts down a rear window, I get that same air preasure thingy. But, when I test drove the Explorer and Pathfinder, they did the same thing. I used to have a 97 Rodeo that did the same thing. An SUV thing I guess. Opening a front window or the sunroof seem to help. Also, I just tell my son to close the darn window
I just sold my '00 Durango (Shelby clone in black/silver). No immediate plans to replace it, but the wife likes the style/price of the new Toyota RAV 4. Won't sell the XL until it dies of old age. 24,000 miles so far and absolutely LOVE it. Did I digress again? So, the XL goes in for service and I wander the GMC lot. I look at these new "Envoy" thingies. "Huh, an updated version of my 1985 S-10 Blazer", I think to myself. Rather than take the courtesy shuttle home, I ask if somebody would care to give me a test drive in the Envoy. Since I bought my XL there, they were happy to oblige.
WOW!! It took less than a mile for me to really start looking over this car seriously. Rode wonderfully (load leveling suspension) and was very quiet. Got it out on the highway and it was a joy. Plenty of passing power, little or no wind noise, and great visibility. When I arrived home to show the bride (part of my con to get a ride home), she ended up taking it for a drive while the sales guy and I admired my now-sold Durango and my other sports car. As I looked at the Durango, I was reminded of just how awesome the Envoy truly was.
My Durango was loaded with every single available option, with a few aftermarket goodies to boot (part of Shelby package). The Envoy absolutely toasted it. The "powerful" gas-guzzling 5.9 V8 in my Durango is rated at 25 LESS horsepower than the Envoy's 4.2 (Durango MPG: 12.1 average). The fit and finish are also miles apart, with the Envoy like a Mercedes S-class and the Durango like a 1972 VW Beetle. Oddly enough, the Envoy was stickered less than my '00 Durango, despite clearly being light years ahead of it in every single respect, save the 3rd seat option (which we never use since we have the Yukon XL for that).
Well, we didn't plan to buy anything to replace the Durango anytime soon. When we did in a month or two, the RAV 4 was a shoo-in. My wife is now studying the Envoy brochure and here I am on this forum. The dealer offered us a great deal (invoice) and the wheels are turning. I would not be the slightest bit surprised to be posting as a new Envoy owner in the not-too-distant future. Homerun indeed!
2) I am consistantly getting 20.1 MPG on what is about 99% Florida Turnpike Driving at 75 MPH. I've got over 3000 miles on my Envoy now.
3) nynastar, I first noticed the "helicopter" effect in my wifes 2001 VW Passat Wagon. So it's not just a SUV thing.
My Envoy is great, not one problem at all!
About my TB mileage:
I have averaged 18.35 MPG over the life of the truck (2700 miles, this is using the data from fill-ups and odometer)
The computer has stated 19.0 MPG average.
I have averaged 37 MPH (using odometer and timer on DIC)
Much better than my 1999 Durango (5.2) - Is it just me or have a lot of people traded "D's" for one of the triplets?
Has anyone else seen this discrepancy between the computer and actual mileage?
Also, has any modded their engines with exhaust or new headers?
Thanks in advance for any added info.
Brendan (minn_tb)
My Bravada was recalled as I got home from picking it up (I had it less than a day), but all was OK in the end, and they rented me an Explorer for the interim period of about 4 weeks. Driving the Explorer reminded me why I bought the Bravada in the first place, so that worked out, too.
CRUISING DOWN THE INTERSTATE AT 70-75 WITH CRUISE CONTROL ON, COME UP ON SOME SLOW MOVING TRAFFIC AND YOU PULL OUT TO PASS, STEPPING ON THE GAS (WITH THE CRUISE CONTROL STILL ON) INCREASING YOUR SPEED TO GET AROUND, TAKE YOUR FOOT OFF THE GAS PEDAL AND IT TURNS THE CRUISE CONTROL OFF!
Now what should I do? Call ON STAR for diagonistic check or take to dealer and let them see if they can remedy the situation?
This has happened to me several times, and is beginning to tick me off. Have 2900 miles on TB with DIC and all the extra goodies. Mine is a LT.
Good luck
jim f
As for center console, I found that there were actually two sounds from two sources. The first was where the plastic mount on the console attached to the metal bracket on the floor. The second was the metal clip that forms the screw threads that is mounted on the metal bracket (on the floor) was sliding against that metal bracket and making a chirping sound. The first squeak was solved by putting a paper shim between the console plastic and the metal bracket. The second sound required that I spray silicone spray onto the metal clip so that it wouldn't squeak when it slided against the metal bracket.
Here is what happens:
Air, rushing by (either on the side or top) seeks a downward motion(think of the air as "riding" "on top" of the surface, whether on the side or top). Therefore, when you break the surface (open a window or sunroof) the air rushes into that break. That is why sunroofs have the the built-in "wind deflector" that pops up, so that it pushes the air up and over the "break" in the surface created by the open sunroof.
When the air rushes into the vehicle, naturally, it seeks to find a place to escape. Of course we want our vehicles to be "tight" and "wind noise free" so the only place it can find is the window that it came in through. Of course while it is trying to get out, more is trying to come in and they collide which is where you get the buffeting noise from.
The easiest way to keep this from happening (other than keeping the window closed) is to crack open another window, preferably on the opposite side of the vehicle, until enough air is able to escape through it to quiet the buffeting.
If you have a sunroof, try having someone else (lest I be sued for telling someone to drive without both hands on the wheel) hold down the air deflector while driving on the freeway with all of the windows closed. You will get the same buffeting noise.
Those of you with CDs may find this useful. There is a way to store the CDs so you can read the labels on the ends. Turn the CD so the label end faces up. Put the CD in the slot at the back, and let the front of the CD drop down, the CD will rest against the front of the console at a slight angle, and you can read it. It is almost easier to get the CD into the one slot in back, than it is to get it in both.
I will find out the next day or two if they rattle, but I think they will be fine.
The CD slots are a bad design...just as well try and make the best of it.
jim f
not yet, but I'm in the process of doing so. I have yet to find any aftermarket headers, but it's early. I'm going to wait until next spring/summer before I do an exhaust as by then perhaps something will pop up.
keep me posted in your email file for things you do. mine is a work in progress.
tim
mods at http://www.iwaynet.net/~tlauro/go-cars/trailblazer/1-main-page.html
My countermeasure to the "helicopter noise" when the rear windows are lowered is to lower the front passenger window or the driver side window. This will eliminate the "draft" that occurs inside the vehicle.
I used to drive an Accord. Now, I drive a Chevy Impala. I get the same noise when I lower the rear windows or moonroof.
I have been averaging about 15 combined city and hwy. Haven't done any all hwy. trips yet.
Didn't realize you can get average speed with DIC.
Now that acl1966 mentions it, the last vehicle I purchased that I got touch-up paint with was the 1998 Intrigue I just traded in for the Bravada. I used the touch up paint on the Intrigue just before trading it in.
That means I did not get one for the '99 Suburban I just traded in on a 2001 Silverado pickup, nor have I gotten one on the new truck. I guess GM has stopped this practice. Geez, how much can a few tens of millions tubes of touch-up paint cost per year? Humm...$3.30 per tube X millions of vehicles...lots of bucks. Just one more perk lost to the bottom line...
acl1966...I don't know about the parts number for the touch-up paint, but you should be able to find the paint code on a sticker on the inside of the driver's door. Then you can call up another dealer (and keep calling dealers until one actually helps you) and ask for the part number for the paint. Just fake them into thinking you are gonna run right down and buy it from them, then order it from PartsDirect.
It can drop to 16-17mpg if I drive a bit more aggressively and say 75-80mph averages.
in the city with average amounts of 45mph speeds and stoplights, I can get 15-18mpg. Again, it varies with my mood
tim
http://www.iwaynet.net/~tlauro
Thanks Rick.
There are 69 dealers in St. Louis on strike. I called GM Cust. Svc. about a Service Engine Soon light. They told me to take it to Illinois to get it fixed. The dealer they gave me was over 80 miles away. I have have to leave the Envoy for 3 or 4 days to get it in line to check it out. I asked about a loaner while it was there. They told me that I couldn't have a loaner until they found out what the problem was, and then only if it took longer than a day to repair.
Seems a bit unfair that I have to go so far away, then I have to find way of getting home, much less back to pick it up, and what am I suppost to drive while it sits on their lot waiting to see what the problem is, if there is a problem. Could just be a sensor.
Thanks.
ME
Thanks.
ME
Twinned Vehicles
For more fun, you can go to the main edmunds.com page and click on "Compare Similar Vehicles", and find such arcane differences such as 3 vs 6 year rust warranties, max payload differences and the like.
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
The rest of the differences are aesthetics. I think the leather on the triplets is softer on the Envoy and Bravada. The droopy headliner comes standard with any of the triplets that has a sunroof. The Envoy leather is two-tone, but the TB leather isn't two-tone until you move to the LTZ.
I bought a $33,300 2WD TB with leather and it would have cost about $1,000 more to buy a comparable Envoy.
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
Although the "contract" would not be the paperwork you would need as far as your state's tag/titling agency goes, you would indeed be signing a legal document stating that if you don't bring the car back within 60 minutes you are agreeing to pay full retail price along with the other things.
Please don't ever doubt that any contract, signed by you, is valid. Always assume that if you are willing to sign your name to a document, you are going to be obliged to abide by the terms of the document.
You did the right thing by not signing it. I would take the time to complain to General Motors about the dealer. What they are doing is highly unethical.