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Mazda MPV

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Comments

  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    .......special about the oil they used in your van. Do it yourself and put special oil in. The Pennzoil 5W-20 is less than $2 a quart and is the best non-synthetic oil available.
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    I really like that folding 2nd row seat feature. Glad it made it to the NA models as well.

    I think the black color looks more suiting now with the slightly sportier look.

    -Brian
    '02 ES with no tranny problems :-)
  • daron1daron1 Member Posts: 18
    Thanks a lot for those photos. In fact, I've relied on photos & links that you've provided previously. I actually past on leftover 03's for an unseen 04(except for your link to the Japan site) I remember the trepidation the photos from that Autoscoop forum caused, since the front grill looked like the old 626. I'm very happy that's not the direction they went. My '04 is "on the water" & I just need something to look at while I anxiously wait it's arrival. But, does anyone else find it odd that I had to rely on your somewhat obscure, foreign links to view a vehicle that is now in dealer show rooms? Especially when I can get so much info. on the Chevy Equinox, the Ford Freestar, & the aforementioned upcoming Mazda models? Thanks again.
  • lazyfoxlazyfox Member Posts: 90
    Perhaps MNAO doesn't care much about the MPV as it's not the main money maker for them and the sales were going down. I see them pushing the Mazda3, Mazda6 and the RX-8, the MPV is sort of a Cinderella.
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Member Posts: 278
    I just have to ask; did they put the antenna in the windshield yet? Or is it still the whip type? Also, did the dash layout change much?
    Radio, CD, heater controls, etc. THAT is what really sold me on the older MPV style when it first came out...nice dash layout.
    See, I can post without being negative about my 03 with the jerky tranny....:-))
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The dash is the same, just different plastic trim. Didn't notice the antenna stalk--may not have been attached yet on the van I looked at.
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Member Posts: 278
    Tonight, I filled my tank and the gas gauge did not go up when I turned the key on....this is the same problem I had on my old 95 DC after 160K miles...gas sender unit. It did kick up after I turned the key/engine off and restarted....sweet!

    Rear grab handle on back of passenger seat came very loose all of a sudden too. Screw may be stripped...I swear, I baby this thing and it sounds like I'm trashing it! My kids are not allowed to eat in it yet...etc. Stopping in my dealer in the am to have them try to fix the handle. Wonder what THIS unit will be like after 8 years and 160K miles...after 17K and 9 months it's slipping fast.
  • tomj5tomj5 Member Posts: 209
    Sounds good.

    I read a post on the "other" board how a guy changed his tranny oil and filter and the shift smoothed out.
    My point is:
    1. My Mpv shifts perfectly all the time. I would assume that I have the same software and oil type as the rest.
    2. There seems to be a wide "range" of severity of the hard shift.
    3. Yeah, there is the temp variable, but the problem showed up last summer when it was warm for everyone...
    4. Honda has a policy of 3 flushes for hard shifting trannies, which works most of the time.
    5. Cannot assume that the factory checks every car for oil contamnation. As it won't show up until breakin is well under way...
    The contamnation issue must be eliminated....
     
    Army trucks arrived in "perfect" condition. After we got done with them , the engineering and breakin bugs showed up... Usually clutch plate breakin(particles) caused tranny malfunctions...

    I can see fine tuning of the software, but not the need for a major rewrite....
    Interesting Problem...

    Tj
  • rumor24rumor24 Member Posts: 74
    Yes, I am still mad at mazda, not so much that they have not been helpful, but now others are having to complain and this will no longer be one of the most requested vans. Anyway, I was looking thru the owners manual about how the seats configure for camping. The drivers seat goes back, to the second row, making reclining lounge chairs while the 3rd row folds flat. Great for camping for the 3 of us. If the van holds out that might be kinda cool to try. Not sure if the older ones did this, but that is what the 04 book says.
  • pb17pb17 Member Posts: 33
    What happened to roof racks? Is this just MPV or is anyone else doing this?
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Member Posts: 278
    Yeah, my old '03 folds the same way too.
    I have not used it yet...maybe if my wife kicks me out of the house it will serve well as a resting place...:-)

    Dealer tightened the grabber handle behind the pass. seat. Dealer also sighted that new computer fix has not been announced yet. He stated that there is an alarming amount of MPV owners lining up angrily waiting this FIX. I'm in that line too! Probably will need an appt. out weeks when it does come through...
  • shmunsonshmunson Member Posts: 20
    Any ideas about Dec rebates? Historically, what has Mazda done?
  • rumor24rumor24 Member Posts: 74
    The rebates are all over on the 2003's($3500.00). I got $1500.00 off the 04 which wasn't much but it paid the tax title lic. etc. Other than that I was under avg msrp by about $250.00, but I liked the 04 better. If I had waited I would have gotten a better deal, but I have one of the few if not only 04's anywhere around here. Hindsight, if I had waited, I would have went with the pacifica or quest. quest was too big, but I might have gotten used to it, better than the issues I am having with mazda right now. In my area they have not had any complaints about the bucking, so I will be 1st in for the fix, but I hate being the guinea pig.
  • just4fun2just4fun2 Member Posts: 461
    Actually this transmission problem might be a good thing. If the word gets out that people shouldn't buy the MPV because of this problem and sales drop off, then the price might drop to get sales moving. It could also force them to come up with the fix faster to avoid losing sales.

    Could be a win/win situation!!!
  • dan2004dan2004 Member Posts: 86
    Shifting continues to be erratic and am very unhappy with sudden jerk from 2-3 which occurs about 0.5-1% of the time.

    Am currently engaged with the Mazda corporate rep who test drove the car with me once and felt it twice, and will have the car for a couple of hours next week.

    I hope there will be a good outcome but this thing is taking far too much time already.

    I strongly urge prospective buyers of 04 MPVs to hold off until this issue is resolved.
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Member Posts: 278
    Wondering if those of you out there that are NOT having tranny issues do NOT have the traction control system on your MPV's. If not, could it be tied into the traction control option? I, for one, have that option and have the jerky shifting issue....

    Had first taste of winter with my MPV in MN. today. Handles great with that Traction Control option. Little light on dash lights up when it engages and slips. Streets were pretty icy today and it held well!

    My wife says she thinks it's much better in the snow than her 99 Camry. THAT says alot since she is soooo in love with that old car.
  • rumor24rumor24 Member Posts: 74
    I have traction control, I'm in Illinois and the snow is on the way. I hope you are right about how it handles because I also traded a 98 camry for this so I would have better luck in the winter. I know you get hit harder than we do sometimes, so if yours does well, that should be a good sign for me too. I still hate the bucking 3rd gear, and if it causes any winter driving issues, I can garauntee I will sue til I own mazda. So I hope their vehicle holds up well.
  • clc3clc3 Member Posts: 2
    Rumor24, you said the rebates on the 2003 are $3500. I am only seeing $2500. How does one get $3500? Also, does anyone else think there might be a link between the traction control and the jerky transmission issue. I am considering the purchase of an '03 MPV LX and wanted the traction control, but DO NOT want a problem vehicle. Anybody have any thoughts about this?
  • tomj5tomj5 Member Posts: 209
    Our Mpv has always shifted perfectly.. Smooth as butter(10K miles).... Do not have the traction feature.. Don't need it in sand....
    Tj
  • rumor24rumor24 Member Posts: 74
    Here in Illinois I found that the dealers were offering the mazda $2500.00 but they were offering extras as well. The most I heard about was in Chicago and one dealer offered $5000.00. Not sure if that was just to get me there, but that is what was offered. The only reason that I took the 04 was that once you take an 03 right now it is actually considered a year old now that the 04's are out. Plus I just liked the new looks more. I only got the $1500.00 and was just under the msrp. It has already come down more since I bought mine. The same vehicle with all the goodies that I have is now $1000.00 less according to Edmunds which I am a loyal watcher of. I just don't dwell on it because I wanted this one. If I worried about getting the absolute best deal I would never have a new car. Prices are going to go down all year long. All I need now is for mazda to step up to the plate and take care of the issue at hand so I can endorse this vehicle. Right now I am keeping my opinions to myself until then. Hope that helped. As for the traction control being the culprit, I just don't know.
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Our '02 ES has the TCS and no tranny problems here (finding wood to knock on! ;-)

    YMMV,

    -Brian
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    We have an '03 with TCS and a smooth as silk tranny too. We did have the linkage adjusted right after we got it, as it shifted hard on us in the twisties outside of Denver. I drove that same section of road again under similar circumstances to test the fix, and it worked.

    This was an isolated, easily reproduced problem, unlike the tranny issues reported here. No other issues since, and it's been months.

    However, I'm not impressed with the OEM Dunlops in the slick. We had our first snowfall of the season in Denver - temps in the 20's, roads covered with hard-packed snow and ice.

    To be fair, we're not familiar with driving a large, heavy FWD vehicle in the slick. Our other car is an AWD Subaru, and our other previous cars were small FWD sedans. I think the 'ru has spoiled us... :)

    The van felt loose in the curves, the ABS kicked in a lot, and I actually got stuck briefly on an inclined icy driveway trying to pull out into traffic, despite the TCS, which did kick in.

    I grew up in the mid-West driving RWD vehicles in the winter - went to school in MN, so I'm not new to winter driving per se - it's not like I was pushing the van under these conditions.

    Long story short, we ordered snows for the van this weekend on separate 15" steel rims.

    Does anyone have experience with Kumho Zen KW-11 tires ?

    -brianV
  • lsinclsinc Member Posts: 270
    and the occasional hard shift.
  • dan2004dan2004 Member Posts: 86
    On my troublesome 2004, I sucked out the old fluid and replaced with Valvoline Dextron III - Mecron Maxlife. This is a silghtly souped up fluid which is still compatible with the new car warrantee and is the type specified for the MPV.

    I used a vaccuum pump that I normally use for my boat and is available at all Boat US and West Marine stores (carefully cleaning the suction hose with tranny fluid to remove all contaminants).

    The fluid replacement is not complete since there is still fluid in the torque converter, but exchanged about 13 quarts in three cycles so I estimate I have about 70% new fluid.

    The change in shifting was immediate -- the tranny is far smoother and more responsive than before and so far there is none of the hard slamming that occasionally happened from 2-3. I have about 60 miles on the new fluid so far.

    For those attempting this, the Valvoline Maxlife ATF is available at Walmart for $2.44 per quart. Also be very careful to follow instuctions on how to measure ATF fluid level--after engine is warm, idle for 2 minutes then run trans through PRND32. The while still idling in Park, check level (hot scale). Its difficult to read the scale so be careful.

    I will keep everyone posted to see how if this is truely the solution.
  • vronnevronne Member Posts: 5
    http://www.mpv.mazda.co.jp/gallery.html
  • dan2004dan2004 Member Posts: 86
    On my troublesome 2004, I sucked out the old fluid and replaced with Valvoline Dextron III - Mecron Maxlife. This is a silghtly souped up fluid which is still compatible with the new car warrantee and is the type specified for the MPV.

    I used a vaccuum pump that I normally use for my boat and is available at all Boat US and West Marine stores (carefully cleaning the suction hose with tranny fluid to remove all contaminants).

    The fluid replacement is not complete since there is still fluid in the torque converter, but exchanged about 13 quarts in three cycles so I estimate I have about 70% new fluid.

    The change in shifting was immediate -- the tranny is far smoother and more responsive than before and so far there is none of the hard slamming that occasionally happened from 2-3. I have about 60 miles on the new fluid so far.

    For those attempting this, the Valvoline Maxlife ATF is available at Walmart for $2.44 per quart. Also be very careful to follow instuctions on how to measure ATF fluid level--after engine is warm, idle for 2 minutes then run trans through PRND32. The while still idling in Park, check level (hot scale). Its difficult to read the scale so be careful.

    I will keep everyone posted to see how if this is truely the solution.
  • bigdadibigdadi Member Posts: 72
    From where did you suck out the tranny fluid, the tube holding the fluid measuring stick?
  • tccmn1tccmn1 Member Posts: 278
    So by the sounds of the responses so far, there is no relationship between hard shifting and the TCS option DARN! Thought I was onto something instead of on something;-| It will be interesting to see if the fluid change really does fix the problem. Funny how the Mazda think tank guru's have been trying to find an answer and it's that easy of a fix....?!
    I have to say it still handles great, even compared to my old 95 DC shorty, which was good in the snow too! Geez, it got cold up here in the Tundra land tonight though. Cold and crisp!
  • dan2004dan2004 Member Posts: 86
    I removed the transmission fluid through the distick tube. That way you don't have to touch any bolts or gaskets.

    The disadvantage is that you can only get about 1/3 of the fuild at a time, because you can't empty the torque converter. So if my math is correct you will need 6 cycles to get about 90% new fluid.

          1 = 33%
          2 = 53%
          3 = 68%
          4 = 78%
          5 = 85%
          6 = 90%

    The manual states the total capacity of the transmission is 10.3 quarts with four seasons but I've read elsewhere that a system evac took 17 quarts. In my experience each suction cycle takes about 4 quarts out (roughly 1/2 of the 2 gallon tank capacity) so you can assume that 24 quarts will get you to 90% new fluid assuming 17 quarts capacity. This is inefficient but far less expensive than doing it in a garage, and I control all the variables.

    Between each suction I am running the car for a while (maybe 2-5 miles) to mix the fluid.

    Currently I am at about 75% new fluid level. Per my pervious post, the trany continues to shift far better than before (I have about 120 miles on the new fluid). Much smoother and faster, particularly on kickdown. Its an amazing difference.

    HOWEVER, from time to time certain shifts (the 2-3 range) are slightly rougher than others. Still far better than before and not the slamming previously experienced. But this could still be due to "software glitches" claimed by Mazda.

    I will perform two more cycles to get at 90% to see what improvement that makes and keep everyone posted. When I finish my "experiment" I will let Mazda know and present them with the bill for my ATF fluid.

    ...TJ thanks for the inspiration and if you live in the Boston area the beer is on me!
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    I'm guessing that there are multiple factors at work here, and that's why it's hard to nail down.

    Keep in mind that this is a "learning" transmission controller, so it changes its behavior over time in response to how you drive. That alone makes it difficult if not impossible to compare across vehicles. The TCM's program settings themselves represent multiple factors. Not to mention differences in mileage, wear and manufacturing tolerances, and interactions with the ECM...

    It could be that dirt/contamination is affecting some units, and it might even be interacting with whatever nuances the TCM has "learned".

    In fairness to Mazda, I seriously doubt that a simple flush will fix all cases, although it could and probably does fix some. The only way to tell would be to get a large number of vans that exhibit this behavior, drain the fluid and check for contamination. If a large percentage have it, then issue a recall and change everyone's fluid out. Then follow up and see how many units improve with the new fluid. If they all do, well, you're done, but suppose that only fixes, say, half as I suspect?

    Well, now that you've eliminated that factor, go after the next one. How many of the vans that received the fluid change still misbehave? When? What internal components could cause the reported failure? Start to eliminate them one by one. There are plenty of components that could be to blame as well, but you get the idea. Software would probably come last, in my view, because it's the hardest factor to pin down.

    If ours started to misbehave, I would certainly do a flush and replacement first. It's simple, relatively inexpensive, and eliminates one factor that you can control. After that, the ball's in Mazda's court, so to speak.

    I am certain that this is a high priority issue for Mazda. It's not like they're sitting on their hands, but they could certainly do more by way of communication with their customers.

    Good luck to everyone wrestling with this and hang in there...

    -brianV
  • bigdadibigdadi Member Posts: 72
    I have a LX model and want to upgrade the current 4 to the 9 speakers (4 tweeters, 4 speakers, 1 sub-woofer). I assume there are pre-wired speakers holes. Do I just go ahead to order additional 4 tweeters and 1 sub-woofer and just leave the original 4 speakers in place????
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    Not exactly. You don't mention what model year you have, so your mileage may vary. That said, the dash tweeters are pre-wired on '03 LX's, and it's been reported that the rear tweeters are too, but I can't personally confirm. The subwoofer is NOT pre-wired on my '03 LX - you'll probably have to make a harness.

    As to the door speakers, they have the identical part number in both audio systems, so there's no need to replace unless you want to upgrade. If you go aftermarket, be aware that many aftermarket speakers expect more power from the head unit than a factory unit typically provides - they may not "light up" like you'd like.

    The OEM subwoofer picks up the signal from the left and right rear panel speakers. You'll also need to feed fused power and chassis ground. Last but not least, you'll need to carry the relay connection from the head unit in the dash back to the subwoofer in order to turn on its amp.

    Unfortunately, the rear tweeter covers are integrated into the rear quarter panels. You cannot order them separately and modify your existing panels. So the rear tweeters may have to be aftermarket - or use a second set of dash speakers so that the trim matches, and cut holes for them instead (you're cutting either way).

    It sounds more complicated than it is - no worse than an aftermarket installation. The advantage of the OEM subwoofer is that its amp and box are an integrated unit that fits into the rear quarter panel, leaving the floor clear for cargo. As to the OEM tweeters, they're guaranteed to match the head unit and the trim color.

    These advantages come at a price, of course. Aftermarket components will be cheaper/better value for the dollar.

    Hope this helps,

    -brianV
  • dwsmhadwsmha Member Posts: 35
    hey, you know those annoying super bright headlights that some vehicles have? (My mother-in-law just got a lexus rx-330 with high intensity headlights) Can a 2003 LX be fitted with those? Where would I get such headlights? Any and all info welcome on the differences in headlights welcome.
  • dan2004dan2004 Member Posts: 86
    I took some more fluid out today and put more Valvoline Maxlife in -- I'm at about 80-85% now.

    However I experienced a number of hard shifts today which was very surprising. So I am now working on two theories:

           1). The transmission is "learning" to slam with the new fluid (per brianV's posting above)

           2). The tranny may be very sensitive to fluid levels.

    I carefully adjusted the level (it may have been overfilled slightly when I added the Valvoline) and am now testing again.

    The good news is that it does shift better with the Valvoline, so I don't think I wasted my money if the hard shifts persist.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    dwsmha, you might check the Aftermarket headlights/ bulbs (halogen, xenon, etc.) discussion - it's pretty active.

    kirstie_h
    Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
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  • steveeaststeveeast Member Posts: 158
    Of course, it might just be that the hard shift problem is the TCM as Mazda has been saying all along :-)

    Steve.
  • tomj5tomj5 Member Posts: 209
    Mazda is driven by money not logic....

    Don't believe the TCM programming theories..
    (Why does some work ok and some don't)

    Changeing the oil and improving the shift is an indicator that I am right.. If the bad shift returns that means it is not oil type but contamnation...
    In system analysis, if you change a variable and get a postive change in function, then you are on the right track to solve the problem...

    Back flushing must be done. Changeing the oil is good but not enough. You got to blast the junk out... Or change the tranny....
    Tj
  • dan2004dan2004 Member Posts: 86
    Well I've driven around a bit and the tranny is running quite smoothly again. When it ran harshly (after this mornings fluid extraction) I noticed the difference right away and so too after adjusting the fluid level.

    With the experience I have so far, I would have to say that the fluid level is the key variable with respect to hard shifting. Changing the fluid certainly made the trany shift smoother and faster but depending on the fluid level I did experience the hard 2-3 shift.

    Having said that I'm finding that actually getting an accurate read on the level is no easy feat. Its really hard to tell what the level is even when following instructions precisely. I've noticed that being on level ground is very important.

    I will keep the current trany fluid as is for the next few days to see if it continues to shift smoothly or if the issue comes back.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    The leak is back. Between the tranny shifting problem, and this stinkin'leak, I'm about ready to burn this thing and collect the insurance money. The problem isn't the problems themselves, but the fact that they only occur on a random basis. So radomly in fact, if I were to take the van to the dealer, they probably wouldn't be able to find anything wrong. I've been keeping an eye on fluid levels, but I haven't seen a decrease in any yet. What's up with a random leak? I've never heard of such a thing. Either it leaks or it doesn't leak. Things would be much better if these problems would occur on a consistant basis, that way I could take the van in and get it fixed. These come and go problems are driving me nuts!
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    ?????????????????
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    ......from getting on the 'puter today.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    When someone finally does post a message it'll be something that has absolutely nothing to do with post #6978.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    What, you expect leaks to have some sort of pattern? Don't you know there is a corollary to Murphy's Law deals with leaks? Or maybe because it's fluids the Heisenberg Uncertainty Principle applies.

    But if you are looking for helpful advice--go out and take a nice long walk (or go skiing or whatever you like to do outdoors), or sit by the fire with a tall cool one and a good book, or do whatever you like to do to relax.
  • shmunsonshmunson Member Posts: 20
    I have a vanagon that has a similar on/off leak. However, I am confident it is weather related. Cold nights/days make the seals constrict and this results in leaks. Warmer days/nights make the seals expand and this results in no/smaller leaks. Does this make sense to your problem? Good luck
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    I could see that happening with an older vehicle where the seals are deteriorating, but this is a brand new vehicle. It shouldn't be leaking at all regardless of the tempurature.
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    First place to start with any hard to find leak is with the fluid type.

    What kind of fluid is it? Coolant, brake fluid, engine oil, tranny fluid, power steering fluid (may be the same as tranny fluid), wiper fluid, etc ? If it's just water, it may be from rain/snow or just condensation from the AC.

    Once you've determined the fluid type, you know what system you're dealing with. Then start to systematically check that system for leaks.

    Truly "random" behavior is unlikely, but it sure can seem that way until you work out what's going on...

    I had a blown head gasket on a Plymouth 2.2 liter (infamous for them, apparently) once, that would only reveal itself if I drove far enough to make the thermostat open. I checked the oil for contamination, the coolant for contamination, nothing.

    As I generally drove only from the park-n-ride and back, the engine warmed up that far only about once every other month. I couldn't figure out why my coolant level would be stable for weeks on end and then abruptly drop to zero. The blown gasket was pressurizing the coolant system on the engine side of the thermostat - every time it opened, it would blow the coolant out the overflow tank. Of course, I never noticed, because I was on the road each time it happened.

    Seemed "random" at the time... Fortunately, I figured it out before any real damage was done, and I had the head gasket replaced.

    Good luck.

    -brianV
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    I'm about 99% certain it's leaking motor oil. It still doesn't make sense that the leak is spuratic.
  • bsvollerbsvoller Member Posts: 528
    Sporadic oil leak, eh?

    Bummer. Can you get it up on ramps or something to get a good look at it ?

    Finding an oil leak can be a real drag. Have you tried the dealer? Even if the leak is sporadic, the trail it leaves shouldn't be. They might find it that way.

    Good luck.

    -brianV
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    If you've got some ramps, get underneath and check the filter and/or the drain pan bolt. Your filter or bolt may just need a small tightening.

    Otherwise, see if you can snap some pics of the leakage area(s) and post 'em here. Maybe we can help pinpoint the source.

    -Brian
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