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Buick Rainier, Chevy TrailBlazer, GMC Envoy

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Comments

  • envoy2002envoy2002 Member Posts: 26
    I purchased mine ($39.99 + tax) and it mounts quite easily. Also, you can get spare mounting material from the manufacturer (tool free number) if you ever decide to take it off to say, wax the vehicle, or such. I do much driving and actually do notice a reduction in # bugs splattered on windshield. It fits well, is easy to install, and molded nicely to the shape of the hood.
  • aadlandaadland Member Posts: 28
    Hmm.... Maybe one of these wouldn't be such a bad investment?


    http://waag.com/images/rearbumper/chevyblazerrearguard.jpg


    That's a Blazer, but I do believe they make one for the Triplets as well.

    http://waag.com/rearbumper.php

  • aadlandaadland Member Posts: 28
    richardcoulson,

    It took about a month and a half to get my shocks done this year. They were pretty backed up at the beginning of racing season.

    Anyway, I just wanted to let people know that it could be done. Of course it would be much simpler if Bilstein came out with a HD aftermarket shock with stiffer valving for these things. Last time I checked they haven't yet, but these things are still pretty new. Hopefully they will soon.
  • aadlandaadland Member Posts: 28
    mfullmer,

    It depends upon where you live. When I lived in Montana, two lane roads were the norm. Here in Yuppys'Ville (Seattle) it's hard to find one.

    Since I've been here I've gone over the mountain passes quite a few times in blinding stowstorms on the 6 or 8 (or however many lanes there are) freeway. This is where taillights are really important. I've noticed that the vast majority of cars with their taillights off have the headlights on--DRL's.

    Most drivers of older vehicles simply turn on the lights and are safer. Unfortunately, the average driver probably doesn't realize the difference between the two. Those that do, of course can turn on the lights luckily.

    Although it isn't the same (because you can turn on the lights with DRL's) it reminds me of when they mandated the horrible automatic seatbelts in the 80's. Those things, due to their design were less effective even when used properly than a manual seatbelt.

    So, the manufacturers had to give you a seatbelt that made you less safe than a manual seatbelt...because they (well, not they but the government) assumed you were to stupid to use a manual seatbelt.

    In the hopes of saving the people so careless that they don't wear their seatbelts, they endangered those that do. Pure idiocy....
  • aadlandaadland Member Posts: 28
    Found pics of an Envoy....


    http://waag.com/showroom/103.php

  • mfullmermfullmer Member Posts: 773
    Yes, I agree there are far too many people out there who don't know how to use their vehicle lighting system properly. Your point makes no case against DRLs though. I would say for the most part, people who KNOW they have DRLs know how they work, the rest don't even know about them. Therefore, it's only logical to derive that those without their lights on in conditions that warrant it just don't realize they should have their lights on. It has nothing to do with DRLs. Actually you make a very good point FOR DRLs as, at the very least, the people that don't know when to turn their vehicle lights on have the DRLs.

    Flawed logic but from what motivation?
  • pepper50pepper50 Member Posts: 195
    If any of you have changed your own oil and filter in your triplet, when you refilled did it take exactly 7 quarts as the manual indicates? i.e, is it safe to add all 7 quarts empirically, or should you add 6-6.5 quarts and then keep checking and topping it off until full? Thanks.
  • dieselnerddieselnerd Member Posts: 12
    I just put the whole 7 quarts in. It came out perfect.
  • crburrouscrburrous Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Envoy, 2wd. Wondering if you've experienced any of these problems at what fixes worked.
    1)AC doesn't blow cool until you start driving. When you stop at lights etc. it goes back to blowing just slightly cool.
    2)Driver's seat squeaks a lot when you move your body back and forth and when you take off from a light. (dealer has tightened things, worked for awhile, but now very noisy again.
    3)Squeaks in the front suspension at slow speeds on rough roads. They lubed some things, but noise keeps coming back. It's a quick sharp squeek on each and every small bump or crack in the road. Can be quite noisy.
    Any help would be great. Thank you!
    Chris
    cburrous@yahoo.com
  • envoy_xlenvoy_xl Member Posts: 6
    Greets everyone - been reading the board for a while. First time posting.

    About 3 weeks ago I purchased an Envoy XL SLT (4/02 build) Monterey Maroon Metallic color with sunroof, heated seats, in dash 6 disk CD radio, 3.73 Rear axle ratio, and 17 inch polished wheels. Got the 6/60 extended warranty. Final (pre-tax) price was $33,800 + $1500 for warranty.

    I too was a little concerned to see the various problems that the original Envoy had - but it seems like most of those issues were ironed out by about 2/02 builds. I'm assuming that they put most of those fixes into the Envoy XL - there are no recalls/TSBs for the XL. It's almost like the XL is the second year of production in the Envoy line.

    So far 750 miles and no problems. Absolutely loving the SUV - I think that it looks great. I'm constantly getting compliments on it. I'm pleased with the power, interior/exterior looks, size and the many, many features. The size has been wonderful. Took a trip with 6 people (all seats up) - and still had enough room to put plenty of stuff in the back. I figure with all 3 seats up (7 passengers), it's still got about a much storage as a standard car trunk.

    Stretching to find some negatives:
    a) It barely fits into my garage - kind of a negative (but kind of desired too). Had to put up one of those strings with a weight to make sure I park it in the correct distance. About 6 inches left over behind and 1.5 feet left in front (standard sized garage).

    b) Fog lights seem like they point too far down to me - I'd prefer them to beam outwards a little more.

    c) Gas mileage. 16 MPG with mostly city driving and constant AC on. Better than most SUVs of this size, but still not great.

    d) AC works limitely until you get moving - but once you're rolling it is good (dual HVAC is nice).

    Palmduck - If I had just won the lottery, I think that I'd still end up with an Envoy XL (those Hummers stand out too much). I would strongly endorse/suggest buying an Envoy XL.
  • jwinkyjwinky Member Posts: 59
    Iexplore2000,

    I am with you on the getting the larger tank if a retrofit would work. The only thing I can think of as a potential issue is range on the DIC. My guess is the computer has the fuel tank capacity stored as a constant to determine range. Granted, this would be very easy to update with a flash of the computer, but would a service department be willing to do this?

    I wish I didn't have to fill-up as often with my Envoy as I did with my old Civic. It is a little frustrating.

    As far as Xenons/HIDs, I also have wondered why they only made an appearance for a short time on the old style Envoy. If I had to guess, it is that the Escalade/Denali owners may have felt slighted. I have thought about, and friends of mine have suggested, seeking a salvage Envoy to see if the Xenon system could be retrofitted. If I am not mistaken, the shapes of the relectors are very similar between the old and new body style. If you did this, you would have to constantly disable the DRL's, though.

    I will let you know if I get past the talking stage with this.

    JAW
  • delrickdelrick Member Posts: 105
    They went to a 25.5 in the XL.
  • guy21guy21 Member Posts: 129
    I ran into a GM mechanic over the weekend who said his dealership (Chicago area) is starting to see Trailblazers with loose cylinder sleeves. He said this is a cast iron engine but also has sleeved cylinders. Does anyone know if this is how this engine is constructed? If it is, this would tie in with what I am hearing of GM going away from the I-6 to a small V-8 in these vehicles.
  • tblazedtblazed Member Posts: 945
    Cast aluminum block with cast iron sleeves.
    Check out the GM link below for details.

    http://media.gm.com/division/powertrain/news/4200_Overview.pdf
  • scottc454scottc454 Member Posts: 356
    GM isn't going away from the I-6. The V-8 will be available on the extended versions of the triplets and on the upcoming Buick Rainier.
    The Rainier is getting an aluminum block V-8, so it would be sleeved as well.
  • ficussficuss Member Posts: 541
    guy21: get a new mechanic, Stevie Wonder would be able to tell the difference between aluminum and cast iron. The sleeve problem showed up last year with a few engines, mine being one of them. It has been resolved. There have been very few posts of engine failures due to sleeve shifting.
  • guy21guy21 Member Posts: 129
    Anyway, the point would be the loose sleeves and not the block material. May I ask what was done to repair your engine? How do you know it was only a problem on a "few"? This is a relatively new engine. And how did GM assure you it wouldn't become a problem again in the future? Thanks.
  • gam2gam2 Member Posts: 316
    Anyone else have a loose rearview mirror? Mine vibrates at idle and over ANY kind of bump. It's really annoying. I can't believe all the problems I have with this thing.

    GAM
  • jmltribjmltrib Member Posts: 20
    Ok everybody...I would appreciate any advice I can get here. I have a Honda Pilot on order which should be in around the first of September. I made the mistake of going and looking at an Envoy XL which I really like because it has many comforts the Pilot is lacking (and has more style as well). I am torn between the reliability which I know that Honda has and going back to an American car. (Currently have a Mazda Tribute (ok...it's really a Ford) which has been to the dealer so many times, I have lost count...so don't want to get bitten again!!). I know it's something in the end I have to decide, but any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!
  • 2002slt2002slt Member Posts: 228
    I had a problem a few weeks back, where my windshield washers stopped working. I'd turn the stalk switch, but only the wipers would engage - one swipe. I found a way to correct it, I'm sure only temporarily, by tilting the steering wheel up and down a few times. It worked fine except for one little thing. I went to the car wash and every time the windshield got wet, the wipers came on. This is strange, because I don't have the "Rain Sensing" wipers option. It hasn't rained in Chicago for a while, and I haven't washed the car since, so I don't know if it was just a fluke.
    Does anyone know how to access the steering wheel wire harness, without removing the wheel? I'll try anything just to keep it out of the dealer's hands!

    Thanks!
  • missouri2missouri2 Member Posts: 41
    if you made a order you need to stand by it. there is not a perfect car or truck but i am happy with what i have. there has been a few small problems, they have been corrected. guess what i have a build date of 06/01 and i am getting ready to take a 6000 mile road trip. the miles on the bravada as of now is 5000 miles. the day i bought my 1998 corvette pace car it had a few problems but it took a road trip of 10,000 miles. why worry you have warranty. the vette did good. if your lights in your house blink, do you ran away because it is not perfect
  • envoy_xlenvoy_xl Member Posts: 6
    I'd disagree with Missouri2, unless getting out of your order is illegal/extremely difficult.

    The Honda Pilot is going to be a good SUV, no doubt. The Envoy XL is a good SUV with rare, mostly annoying glitches that have largely been resolved. Both SUVs are quite similar when you glance at their specs. For me, the Envoy has a larger engine, can tow more, and IMHO looks better. The fact that it was a (fully) Americian SUV also made me feel good, especially after 9/11.

    You've got to find your own reasons for buying a car (it's your cash) - but if you can get out of your order (which I suspect you can), I'd suggest leaving your options open.
  • mlauricellamlauricella Member Posts: 24
    I had the loose and vibrating rearview. You can easily tighten it with a torx head. Theres a hole on the bottom of the base..
  • missouri2missouri2 Member Posts: 41
    i must be too old. a persons word and hand shake should mean something. if not we are in a place where you can not trust our self or no one else.
  • tlaurotlauro Member Posts: 504
    missouri2 Wrote:
    "if you made a order you need to stand by it."

    I'm sorry, but you don't have to stand by the order. My wife's the lawyer, but you may have signed a buyers order costing you any good faith money you put down, but there wasn't a VIN# generated thus no firm contract or deal so you're fine. Chances are you will be able to get your money down back too.

    missouri2 Wrote:
    "i must be too old. a persons word and hand shake should mean something."

    perhaps you're just too kind. believe me...it's strictly business and coming from someone who has many years in the car business....there's no need to put good faith in such a handshake. pure fact, the dealer could care less about your integrity. I was one and must say, it's honestly...all about the deal. To cover those that disagree...I'll revise my statement to 99% of the dealers out there.

    tim
    former dealer in the 99 percentile
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    I wouldn't hesitate to back out of an order if I wasn't sure about the car. But I'm only 49 - what do I know :-)

    Steve
    Host
    SUVs, Vans and Aftermarket & Accessories Message Boards
  • tbcreativetbcreative Member Posts: 357
    Check this out to see when the 2003s are due to arrive at dealerships:

    http://www.crcarpriceservice.org/upcoming.asp
  • tblazer503tblazer503 Member Posts: 620
    Sorry man, but speaking from experience, Why would you buy a Honda when Acura gives you better service overall? The Acura MDX base is about 34k msrp and the comprable Pilot runs about 31k. Acura will hold resell better, the service department rocks at Acura, and w/ Acura, its a 48/50k warranty. But all that aside, I drove the Acura MDX and the Trailblazer and the Explorer... The Trailblazer impressed the hell out of me for all the options on the "base" model. I have the 4x4 LS w/ option package 3 and I paid 27k on 9/10/01. If its the third row seats you are planning on using, dont get the Acura, go with the XL. I believe it was dateline that did a study on 3rd row seats and found that in the ballpark of 70% of rear end collisions involving a third row seat in SUV's there were serious injuries... The majority of them out there, Explorers, etc have the 3rd row about 5" away from the rear glass... thus causing more injuries in the event of a rear end collision. GM was smart about this. =) IMO, go with the GM, all the service people treat you good, and all have given me more information.
  • mfullmermfullmer Member Posts: 773
    Ok, I've tried to look past TLAURO's improper use of the English language ("Could care less" and "Couldn't care less" mean the opposite and "Could care less" really doesn't mean much at all) but I'm worried now that people are posting who don't even read things first.

    Tbcreative - That Consumer Reports link is a listing of dates when the manufacturer will be releasing final information on the 2003 models (Final pricing, Options/pricing, etc.) and CR will be able to issue their reports. That in no way relates to the dates that the actual vehicles will be arriving in dealerships. It doesn't even say anything like that on the page. Usually (Ok, I know someone will try to pin me down on a date so I'll be purposely vague) U.S. manufacturers begin production of the next years models around the end of August (Earlier for some, later for others) and the vehicles begin arriving in dealerships a few weeks later.

    Mis-information is worse than no information at all.
  • kenitzerkenitzer Member Posts: 19
    We just purchased a new TB EXT and are very pleased so far. My wife has a 99 Honda CRV EX and absolutely loves it, so needless to say we looked very closely at Honda (both the Pilot and the Odessey) and the MDX. If I were just looking at the Honda products, the MDX is the best value for the money. Load up a Pilot with every thing the MDX has and you come close the to cost of the MDX. Also the MDX offers a sunroof, the Acura name and is a much more stylish vehicle. I see the Pilot as a CRV on steroids.

    Unfortunately for us, the Honda products weren't quite right. We replaced a 92 Ford E150 Conversion Van so we were looking for space, towing capacity and comfort. The Pilot and MDX rear seat is nice the way it folds into the floor, but is virtually useless as a seat. There was no way either of our children could have sat back there for any trip other than in town. The TB was also all set for towing with a greater potential towing capacity, which fit our need. While the fuel economy is less, I am willing to trade off a few mpg's for comfort and convenience. Really it all comes down to what vehicle fits your needs best.
  • kenitzerkenitzer Member Posts: 19
    For those looking for a TB EXT / Envoy XL with both a sunroof and an entertainment system, I am here to say it can be done.

    We just had an Audiovox 6.8" roof mount flipdown video monitor/TV installed in our TrailBlazer EXT with sunroof. We purchased the system at Circuit City and they installed it without a hitch. Our total installed cost was about $1500 which included the flatscreen video monitor, a TV tuner and antenna, an automotive quality VCR, 2 wireless headphones, RF modulator so you can here it through the FM tuner on the truck, and a 5 year replacement warranty on everything. It works great and looks like the factory installed it. They mounted the VCR vertically on the back of the middle seat so it can be accessed by those watching tapes, and still be easily removed when not traveling so as not to be an inviting target for would-be thieves. Audiovox also makes a roof mount unit that has the DVD player built in as part of the unit. We needed the VCR, as we have a vast video cassette library and haven't made the jump to DVD at home yet. We check with Best Buy, but the said it couldn't be done.

    If you're like me and really like the sunroof but have kids that really appreciate watching a movie on long trips, this is a terrific solution. We also considered the "piggyback" systems but felt they were to bulky and didn't have same viewing quality. Another option was headrest mount monitors, but that eliminated TV, not to mention they are so enticing to thieves. When the screen is in the fold up (stored) position it is impossibly to tell if the unit is there while looking from the outside of the locked vehicle. All in all this is a good solution.
  • icojonesicojones Member Posts: 61
    Does anyone have this so I can check for a price on gmpartsdirect.com?

    Thannks.
  • ficussficuss Member Posts: 541
    guy21: When my engine quit at 2166 miles, Chevy replaced it. I would have prefered a new car but... As far as G.M. making a statement that something like this will never again happen, I wouldn't believe them if they said it. My comments about just a few engines going bad were based on the fact that people on edmunds site have been telling us everything that has happened with their triplets. Very few of us have reported bad engines. I realize not all buyers come to edmunds to share experiences, but enough of us have. If you have any qualms about the engine, I would recommend you go ahead and buy the car and purchase the extended warranty. Even though I have some reservations concerning the software glitches with the car, I still enjoy the car.

    Frank
  • thorljbthorljb Member Posts: 3
    I've been trying to keep up since purchasing my Envoy last month (build date 03/02), and if you need advice I've got a thought for you. It has been said that those of us that haven't had any problems don't post, that's because we have to stop ridin' first. My Envoy has been perfect (knock on wood) bumper to bumper, power on tap, looks good, and all electronics in order. But can the same be said for the Pilot's future, not yet, just as our triplets have had problems, the Pilot may have it's share of growing pains yet to come. To put it simply, which one makes you feel good, I test drove all of the above mentioned vehicles, and I kept going back to the Envoy, nuff said!!!
  • hardhawkhardhawk Member Posts: 702
    Anybody else having problems getting on this board since the format change? Unless I go on at 6:00 a.m., I have a heck of a time getting through. Does Edmunds need more bandwith or better servers? There is certainly a problem. By the way, my Envoy is one year old next week. I still love it and wouldn't trade if for anything else. Just got a new 22' Cobalt boat and it and the trailer weigh over 4000 lb's. The Envoy pulls it all without a problem. How many other 6 cylinder midsize SUV's can do that?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    hardhawk,

    Be patient! (I know it's hard - I am having a problem downloading pages.) The problem we've been having for the past few days was supposed to have been resolved already. I just passed a note up the chain.

    tidester
    Host
    SUVs; Aftermarket & Accessories
  • cmack4cmack4 Member Posts: 302
    I can vouch for the fact that the triplets definitely take the 7 quarts for the oil change. I switched over to synthetic (Mobil1) at 3K and it took the full 7 quarts and 1/8 of an 8th quart to show "full" at operating temp! It was one line below full at 7qts.

    As far as the axles go, anyone changed out the gear oil yet? I'm thinking of changing the rear axle lube with 75w90 Mobil1 gear oil and wanted to see if anyone else had done it themselves? I don't think I'm going to touch the front yet since it's an open diff and the Bravada's AWD system is rear biased, but I'd like to do the rear.

    Also, did anyone ever verify the correct torque for the wheel lugs. I want to rotate wheels. Manual calls for 100lbs, but I remember back a few months, there was discussion that it might be 120lbs... Anyone recall?

    Lastly, I'm swapping the stock air filter for the K&N. This question is directed at tlauro. Have you had any problems with dust accumulation with your open air setup? I was thinking of chopping the top of the breather box and louvering it to direct air in.
  • blrmkrblrmkr Member Posts: 40
    icojones, I hope the following helps:

    Cover, rear bumper 88937016
    Pad, rear bumper step 15720781
    Pad, rear bumper step 15046524

    I know that the bumper is cheaper through gmpartsdirect.com than the dealer, but the cost of shipping was outrageous if I remember correctly.
  • pepper50pepper50 Member Posts: 195
    cmack4 wrote:
    As far as the axles go, anyone changed out the gear oil yet? I'm thinking of changing the rear axle lube with 75w90 Mobil1 gear oil and wanted to see if anyone else had done it themselves?

    I'm not sure about the Bravada, but the Envoys already come with the GM-brand 75W-90 synthetic axle lube. So it may be that all the triplets do, but it should state so in your manual. I'm not sure how many miles you have, but unless you just want the Mobil 1 brand, you may not need to do anything yet. I'll probably go with Mobil 1 as well, when it's time for me to eventually change, but that's a ways off for me.
  • icojonesicojones Member Posts: 61
    Here is a rundown on the estimate to replace the rear bumper cover from the local Chevy dealer:

    1. Rear Bumper Cover = 395.49 ($217.98 @ gmpartsdirect)
    2. 2.2 hours of body labor = $88
    3. 4.0 hours of PAINTING! = $160
    4. Paint = $72

    With other small charges and tax, the total comes to $796!

    Forgetting the near 100% markup for the part, is there any way to justify 4 hours of paint time and $72 worth of paint?
  • cmack4cmack4 Member Posts: 302
    The bravada also has the GM 75w90 synthetic axle lube... and it is quite early for me as well, but I'm tempted just as an old school precaution to remove shavings from castings and wear, since it's relatively easy to do. Once I have the Mobil1 in there, I'll probably swap it out every 20-30K. For kicks I priced the GM lube at my dealer... $28 a quart *OUCH* GM Parts direct has it for $16 with like $8 shipping. The Mobil1 75w90 I've seen as low as $6 a quart! What's up with that? I'll post back after I make the switch to let you know how it went, and also monitor my MPG, since Mobil claims added efficiency.
  • tlaurotlauro Member Posts: 504
    cmack4, I've had numerous open cone style filters on my vehicles and there is no issue with dust. Not unless you're off road and in areas of heavy pollen, which I have encountered with a friend while hunting. Even then, you can buy a pre-filter cover for the K&N to use then.

    IMO, the stock set up of the Triplets I-6 air intake is poor and unless the box is removed, the K&N Filter will do very little for air intake gains and will basically just be a long life filter.

    As you noted doing, I've modified the stock box to create my own baffle to assist in the engine heat issue much like the K&N FIPK setups are.

    Good luck and let me know if there are any q's.

    tim

    "Lastly, I'm swapping the stock air filter for the K&N. This question is directed at tlauro. Have you had any problems with dust accumulation with your open air setup? I was thinking of chopping the top of the breather box and louvering it to direct air in. "
  • bakednutbakednut Member Posts: 17
    i already have Piaa 520 Fogs mounted on my front bar. I would really like to get another pair for inside the bumper (by the license plate bracket). Im lookin into Piaa 1100X Driving lights. This way i can see in inclimate weather as well as see way down those beaten paths i like to find when i go upstate to go camping or fishing. However, i am wondering wether all those lights will take a toll on the alternator, say if someone in front of me angers me and i feel the need to BLAST them will ALL my lights(i would NEVER do that~). Is it possible i would be drwaing too much power that the lights would DIM everything else? With my current set up i am having NO problems. Can anyone donate some input? Thanks.
  • gmdronegmdrone Member Posts: 78
    Quite a few years ago, I used to run SCCA pro-rally events with everything from a R-5 Renault to a full blown Quattro. Adding lights, especially higher than stock wattage (ie changing to 100 watt bulbs from the more standard 55 watt ) was considered to be a normal mod. And yes a lot of people experienced complete meltdown of their electrical system and alternator. The trick to avoid this problem is pretty simple. The feed wire from the alternator, that is usually a heavier gage red wire that usually leads to to starter motor battery post is usually of mediocre gage, say around 14-16 ga. We used to run a parallel line of heavier gage, at least 12, and preferably 10 ga between the alternator output and the starter. It's like a garden hose and water. The more capacity of the wire you have, the lower the resistance, and the less likelihood that you will overheat the wire. Some of the guys tried to get real trick and ran two alternators, and dual battery setups, but most of them failed in the field for one reason or the other. The other mod I would highly recommend would be the addition of relays between the switch and the light itself. The relay is basically an electrical trigger(switch) that allows you to use the lighter gage wire of the cars harness to activate the higher current drawing lamps. Use a heavy gage, (again 10-12 ga) wire from the battery to the relay and again from the relay to the lamp. Oh, by the way, it is probably wise to put a fuse inline with the power lead from the battery, thus eliminating dull red glowing batteries at night when you open the hood to find out where that funny smell is coming from. I used to use Cibie lights with those modifications, and never even strained a standard alternator.
  • sildogsildog Member Posts: 50
    Long Story!
    I had an aftermarket stereo system installed in my 2002 Trailblazer. At the time, the installing company told me that the vehicle would not "operate properly" with the factory stereo removed, so they charged me $85 for a wire harness so they could re-locate the factory stereo in the back cargo area, then installed the aftermarket stereo in the dash. I did loose things like door chimes and Onstar capability, since these things come through the factory sound system.
    Everything was fine, until somebody broke in and yanked the aftermarket unit out of the dash. In the process, they unhooked all of the wiring, so the factory unit was no longer "in the circuit". The vehicle appears to be working totally fine. I am driving it around with no stereo and so far I can't find anything that is not working. When I went back for an estimate, I showed the aftermarket installer that everything still worked, and he said that "the information they had said it shouldn't". I asked if they had some document so I could understand, but they didn't have anything. They quoted a new $85 harness for the repair install, but I don't really feel like paying it again if it is not needed. Anybody know the truth? The dealer doesn't know anything and didn't seem very interested in researching it for me. If anyone has info, please let me know!
  • mfullmermfullmer Member Posts: 773
    My suggestion, cut your losses and have them replace your factory unit. Aside from the fact that you'll never get truly excellent sound in a vehicle that has so much glass and the factory stereo is, at the very least, tuned to the vehicle, this is just one more reason to not spend money on an aftermarket stereo as those are the ones the criminally minded want.

    On another note, I do hope that the aftermarket system wasn't one of those meant to "force" the entire population within 100 feet of your vehicle to listen to the music you want to hear.
  • tblazer503tblazer503 Member Posts: 620
    If you have onstar, see if it still works. Secondly, there should be two yellow wires running to the harness from the truck. cap both off now... one is your databus wire. I have heard that just checking the wire for voltage will mess up the ECU, so I would cap it now. This wire is the main reason for the relocation kit, although if you lost all your chimes, it probably wasnt the right one. There WAS one out about two to three months ago for Tahoes, etc but not for the '02 Trailblazer, i believe it said '01 Trailblazer, and you would lose all your chimes. BTW Onstar may run through the same speakers the chimes do.. I'm not sure might want to check with GM. I would just be concerned if you have the databus wire exposed. This is supposed to be a serial bus wire, so a solid ground may do some funky things with the ECU or something. Not sure. GMDRONE, got any help for this? Hope this helps some.
  • tbltexttbltext Member Posts: 21
    Check this TB out! Not your ordinary taxi

    http://www.finishlinewest.com/trailblazer_pics.htm
  • rj123456rj123456 Member Posts: 140
    blrmkr - will these parts work on the Envoy XL too?

    I took mine in to the dealer (wife was backing in parking lot and collided with someone else doing the same, sob!) and they claimed the XL was too new to be in their system.

    Also, what are the pads for, are they required when replacing the bumper cover?

    Also, the part number 88937016 shows up in gmpartsdirect as front/rear bumper...

    Also irritates me that gmpartsdirect doesn't even seem to acknowledge the existence of the triplets!

    Re:

    #6564 of 6573 Part Number - TBLT Rear Bumper Cover by blrmkr Jul 10, 2002 (05:18 pm)
    icojones, I hope the following helps:

    Cover, rear bumper 88937016
    Pad, rear bumper step 15720781
    Pad, rear bumper step 15046524
  • sildogsildog Member Posts: 50
    Nice "Hasty Generalization" Just because I am not satisfied with the average performance of the factory sound, doesn't mean I am a menace to society. Are you sure your name isn't A Bunker?
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