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Comments
1. A more powerful engine is slated for the 2003 model year, not before.
2. It will still be a Ford engine.
3. The 2002 are already in production. She suggested it is likely that 2002 will be available soon and 2003 may be early as well (e.g., next spring).
Don't know if there is any truth to all this, but the one thing she seemed most clear about is the news about the more powerful engine for 2003. I don't think I will wait. Engine power seems to be a non-issue for most owners. I want enough power to pass on 2 lane highways without majore stress.
Any thoughts/comments appreciated!
Wendy
I didn't realize you could get a Sienna loaded up to $34k-$35k. I The only things it had that out MPV didn't was an entertainment system.
I think I'll keep that $5k-$10k in my pocket. Our family needs it more than Toyota.
TB
My MPV story: I too was worried about the power (I "grew up" [sort of] driving a built 6.6 liter Trans Am), but I shopped and shopped and everything else about the MPV was just right so I took the plunge. It's fine. Our other car is a '97 SOHC Explorer, which isn't all THAT fast but sure has plenty of torque, but in comparison the MPV isn't too bad. After all, it's not a sports car.
Those who are considering one might hunt a little for a 2000 model. We got an LX, with 6-cd, touring, 4-seasons, and rear air (sticker, $26,300) for about $21,300 + taxes, etc. (Came to just over $23k out the door with GA's exhorbitant taxes and fees.) I too looked at Toyotas, but goodness, one equipped the same way would have easily been over 26k even with a decent deal. This is my fourth Mazda over the past 10 years (626, B2500, Protege) and I've always found the dealers to be OK and the deals excellent. So if you want an MPV don't wait another 15 months for that bigger engine. Don't really need it, and you can get a sensational deal!
Do I need the Mazda rails up there if I want to put stuff on top? Does anybody have any experience with aftermarket arrangements which have worked?
I imagine I will need to have stuff up top only occasionally -- perhaps the odd bike, skis, or container of camping gear.
Thanks.
Anyone with rack experience with the MPV?
Steve
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This is exactly what you'd need for the Yakima rack:
54" Tracks - You have to DRILL into the roof
2 Sets of RailRiders - Towers to mount the bars, removeable in no time.
48" Bar set - Longer if you want... I use 54"
Fairing - You'll want this, reduces noise ($50)
Any accessory (bike/ski/canoe/surfboard/case)
I don't use Yak's bike attachments, I use Rocky Mount brand...cheaper, $40-vs-$80 each.
The drilling wasn't bad. The instructions are very good, and you only drill thru the top layer of the roof, as the screws that hold the rails are self-tapping (took an hour and I didn't rush). Incidentally, these are the same rails that Mazda is using for their factory racks. Load rating for the Yakima is 165lbs-vs-100lbs for the factory rack. Best part is you can take it off when you want in about 2 minutes, and just have the rails there...no wind noise.
But, as Steve said, do you need a rack? If you're carrying bikes, I would recommend the roof racks, and not the tailgate type, since you can't really open the hatch on the van, and your precious bikes are munched if someone rear-ends your beloved MPV. I use our's for skis, 3 mt. bikes and bike trailer, 2 sea kayaks, and a "Space Case," (not all at once) so it's very handy. If you are using a van-top carrier, the Yakima is better since the towers rise higher off the van than the factory or the Thule racks, and would avoide contact w/the roof. But, test before you use to avoid probs.
Where to buy, I go to REI (http://www.rei.com). Their prices are the same or LESS than Yakima's website (http://www.yakima.com), they have sales often on Yakima gear, and the REI staff seems to know alot about rack systems.
Happy racking!
--javadoc
You were smart not to pay the prep/advertising fee. All you should have to pay is tax, license, and registration. Nothing more.
-Brian
I have been reading these boards off and on since August 1999, when our family of 5 made our 1991 Ford Explorer seem awfully cramped. (As you can tell we don't make any decisions fast in this family!) At first we were convinced we needed an Odyssey, but the prices and it's huge size deterred us. We loved the way the MPV handled compared to the Chrysler, Ford and Toyota vans. We first went to a dealer in Fall of 1999 but insurance problems (points and settlement for a fraudulent injury) made getting a new car (with extra collision/comprehensive surcharges) too expensive. Insurance problems are mostly solved now so we started looking again at Christmas (2000). Unfortunately the only 2000 LX's left in central NJ were loaded with options, including the GFX-which we thought made the van look too much like a Jersey-car. No offense meant to NJ-ites, but I'm from upstate NY and my husband is from Ma. We currenly have a Honda Civic wagon, and the Explorer (and a 51 GMC 3/4 ton truck) and all are manuals. (We too would have loved to find a minivan with a stick, but guess we'll have to make do with popping off the O/D on hills!)Obviously we don't go for fancy cars. But this time we feel like we have splurged on a very stylish (as well as functional) vehicle.
Seems like everyone here seemed to resolve the few problems that the early 2000 MPV's had. Hope ours is ok. I'll let everyone know. Thanks again everyone.
Oh, as far as the rebates, the person a few posts back seems to have it right. On the 2000's you can get $1750 cash rebate (goes up to $2750 with more options, like entertainment, GFX or touring), OR $500 cash rebate AND current 2001 financing (0%2yr, 2.9% 3 yr, 4.9% 4yr, 6.9 % 5 yr, OR 0% 4year financing (if qualify-it appears that this one is harder to qualify for). Of course maybe there are hidden incentives to dealers right now. Maybe someone can get the big cash rebate and great financing but I couldn't find anyone in NJ or Ma willing to give me both. And most of the dealers seemed pretty sincere about getting rid of their 2000 stock.
If it still concerns you, be a real dealmaker and buy a 1-year-old MPV! That would be an easy way to take advantage of the MPV's high depreciation in the 1st year. I do suspect that over a few years, the depreciation difference will become much less dramatic. It always does.
I have a question... I have been reading some nice experiences some are having with MPV after switching to synthetic oil (better engine response, etc). When I asked my service rep during last oil change about switching to synth, he told be that Mazda doesn't recommend to use synthetic before 24,000 km. Does this have any sense? If so, why is that? Could it be that in case of synth, I will be replacing oil less frequently and the dealer will have less money from me? Just wondering... Any insight is appreciated.
P.S. MPV is my first (motor) vehicle ever so I'm not that good at all that stuff (yet)... So forgive me if this question appears silly/dumb...
The Mazda dealers, for some reason, don't like to switch the oils over to synth before 15,000 miles (24,000k for y'all metrics). The story I heard is that the parts need to wear in. I switched at 12k miles, and have seen smoother shifts from the tranny fluid change. Can't say I've noticed any increased power or mpg (km/ltr). But, remember, not all synthetic oils are truly synthetic. Castrol, for one, has been marketing a synthetic for the past few years, which has petroleum-based oil in the compound...I'd recommend Mobil 1, Redline, or Amsoil products if you are thinking of taking the petro-plunge.
You may be correct that the dealer's stance on the change is money-driven, but they're probably going by Mazda's recommendations. Our Volvo is serviced at the same dealer as our MPV, and they have no qualms about putting whatever fluid (within reason) I want in it. It's supposed to run sythetic oils tho. I still replace oil every 3,000 miles/3 months tho, just as insurance.
--java
I'm just about at the end of a lease on a 98 Cherokee. I've been lurking around these sites since October, checking out what people are saying about their various deals and wheels. Browsing this site about a month ago, I realized that I'd been overlooking the MPV as a potential verhicle. Part of the problem was that I never realized that the car was even in my price range. Once I saw that the price was right and the package seemed to be even more right, I decided to get serious.
I test-drove a MPV LX on Saturday. My main concern was the reported sluggishness of the engine at low speeds. Well, with three 200+lb people in it over some very hilly Pittsburgh terrain, I'm here to tell you that sluggish is not the word for the MPV's pickup. Stately might be more accurate. I sort of got the feeling that I was guiding the old Queen Elizabeth down the Hudson River. It's no Porsche, but it'll do quite nicely, thank you. It had no trouble whatsoever climbing our steep hills, and if the take off was somewhat slower than my Cherokee's (which goes like a bat with that 190 4L powering it), it was instantaneous and more than I would have credited after reading the comments. So if there are any out there like me who are looking to love but afraid of the pickup, don't be. Plan on it being slower than a sportscar, but don't worry--it's no cement truck.
So I bought it. Tonight. And I think I did all right on the deal. Here's what I got:
Sand Mica LX
Dual Air
Roof Rack
LX Security package
+all the standard DX and LX goodies
MSRP = 25055
Invoice = 23042
My cost = 22042 (Dealer incentive)
I think I got a lot of car--an awful lot of car--for that money.
I"m picking it up on Saturday. I'll post periodically to let other potential buyers in on my continuing experiences with it.
And thanks again to everyone who shared their experiences and --I think and hope--steered me into a good purchase.
I have an 2000 LX with the factory roof rack, but as advised by many folks, even some of whom I consider objective, I purchased a Thule "system." Supposedly, the factory cross bars are not strong enough to carry something as heavy as three bikes, which I believe, so I bought the Thule 751 cross bars that clamp onto the factory rails (the ones running parallel to the length of the car) and then the Thule 525 bike mounts. They are pricey - $180 for the 751 and $70 for the 525 (you need one for each bike you want to carry).
I've carried three bikes several hundred miles on interstates and back roads, and these racks have proven to be sturdy, reliable, and fairly easy on/off.
Hope this helps.
Thanks, and I especially appreciate your perspective on the power question. My husband is hounding me about this issue!
Wendy
As far as fitting all the 'stuff' in. Put it in the kids laps...it's their stuff! Just kidding, that deep well that the seat goes in seems to hold a lot.
As for the deal I got, I don't get the feeling it was unusual. God knows I didn't have to leave any broken and bloody bodies behind me to get it. I think it helped that I knew what was possible by studying these posts, but the dealership didn't put any obstacles in the path. They seemed more than willing to give me every break on price they could.
I think the secret weapon all potential MPV buyers have is that we are the only ones who are privy to the secret. Most people have no idea what value there is in the car, so nobody's rushing to buy. They'd rather wait three months and pay five thousand more for the "hot wheels" like Honda. I wish them the joy of it. As for me, I think I got the deal of my life, and I'm pretty sure it's out there for anybody who knows about it. No special skills (aside from going in knowing what you're talking about) needed.
Have Hubby read these posts. And definitely test drive one before you commit to anything else.
Good luck.
My question--if I am paying cash, no financing, should the dealer be able to cut me a better bottom line deal than someone who is financing, or does it make no difference to the dealer where the money comes from?
Reference: Car sales 101
As for the difference between financing or cash, nothing I've read seems to indicate that it makes any difference in the price any more. I think it used to (my Dad always had "his ducks in a row," as he put it, before he ever walked into a dealership, but that was more than just a few years ago). I think malt at post 788 probably has it right these days.
Thanks for the info. We hope to make the purchase tomorrow or next Tuesday, though we're still calling around to dealers in the area. One thing we're running into is it is very difficult to find the dual air without the security package, they seem to come bundled together, even though they are different options. Since we live in a ridiculously safe small town in a rural area, the security system seems unimportant. What about the side impact air bags? Have those proven to have big safety benefits?
Thanks,
Wendy
think is not worth it, other than the
obvious (I would think AC controls in
the back is a must, and carpeted floor
mats may not be worth it). For example,
how much better is the "heavy duty" rear
defogger than what comes standard? What
is the "illuminated entry"? I'd appreciate
your advice!
- Steve
We paid $26,200 on Long Island, NY (fully loaded)
Kings Mazda in Cincinatti has a red LX and ES.
Not sure how far you are willing to drive, but those seem to be the closest.
Both Popular Mechanics and Motor Week (I think) complain about the lack of power in the MPV, and both mags rate it as 12+ seconds 0-60. On the other hand, Carpoint rates it at 10.8 seconds, which puts it fairly well in the middle of the pack for minivans. Now you can't make a car go faster than it can go ( short of harnessing a herd of Jaguars to the front end or something), so it follows that the car Carpoint drove did do 0-60 in 10.8. How? Why the discrepancy?
Here's where it gets interesting (at last!) Both the magazine cars were West Coast vans, with the 160 hp engine. The van Carpoint tested had the 170 hp.
Can 10 hp make so much difference? Frankly I don't know enough about engines to know. But how else to explain it? And how else to explain that most owners are quick to defend its acceleration than the fact that more 170's are sold than 160's (Contrary to LA's opinion, there is more than just flyover space east of them).
How about an informal, very unscientific poll? Post your impressions about acceleration AND the size of your engine. Hey, maybe we'll find out everybody's been wrong all along. Maybe size does make a difference!
rjr425
On the other hand, Car and Driver, which has always used this technique, scored a 12.3 with their test MPV. Go figure.