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That's what they did on mine under warranty.
Keep your fingers crossed.
Then in a couple of months I get to pay for the 60k service, but at least it won't need spark plugs or brake work then (rears are in good shape).
In addition, my car started bucking around the same time. I'll be driving and all of a sudden it gets jerky. I brought it in to my new service station and they said they believe it is a faulty cylinder, and that it is one of the rear cylinders. Since the check engine light isn't coming on, they have no codes to go by to determine which cylinder isn't working properly. They said I would have to go to a Mazda dealer to have them determine which cylinder is the faulty one if the check engine light still doesn't come on.
The person from AAA who came to jump my car this evening, said he thought if I got a good set of new spark plugs, that it might help the situation. Does anyone know anything about this?
I bought this Mazda against my better judgment, having had a Mazda previously and gotten lousy service. But the dealer we bought it from insisted Mazda had changed. Well, I am here to tell that Mazda hasn't changed and that's probably why two dealerships in 4 years have gone out of business in my area. The only two remaining dealerships in my area are extremely inconvenient for me. As I told the people at Mazda of North America when they refused to do anything for me. When I had my Dodge Caravan, which had many problems, they always worked with me on the major repairs. At this point a lemon from Dodge which will work with you, appears to be a better deal than a lemon from Mazda, which won't work with you. I will never buy a Mazda again, and I am telling everyone I know not to buy a Mazda. Mazda stinks. However, as I am stuck with this car for awhile, I would appreciate it if anyone out there has any ideas about what could be causing 1. corrosion of the battery cable; 2. any other electrical problems that might make the car not start; 3. what could be causing the bucking or jerking.
Thank you.
the "bucking" and hard starts could be because of an intermittent battery connection. both leads need to be checked.
it could be something else of course. did you physically try making sure each cable to each spark plug was on the plug and distributor well?
you could have a clogged EGR valve or port.
after your trip to a local parts store for advice on the battery cables, it might be time to seek out another mechanic.
It isn't rocket science, but it must be done properly. If you have to splice in a new battery terminal and lead, then there is probably a clamp an auto-parts store sells that would give you a good mechanical and electrical connection and is the proper size / gauge to carry the amps (current) required of the starter and other electrical equipment.
If it is the positive lead (that would be red or +), and your description seems to imply this, then you need to make absolutely positively sure the splice or clamped area that mate the new battery terminal and wire to the old wire is wrapped quite well in insulating material so that it cannot make contact with the frame of the vehicle which is connected to the (-) negative lead of the battery. If that were to happen, you'd have an electrical short and the possibility of battery explosion or fire.
My guess is that autoparts stores like NAPA or Autozone or PepBoys (or fill in the blank) sell a kit to do exactly this with some insulator for the connection between the wires, and at minimal cost.
Yes... I think a second opinion is warranted here, and yes, if the jerry-rigging is poor, could contribute to your symptoms.
Good luck to you.
As user777 suggested, you should have gotten a second opinion. The link above is a battery cable for a 2002 MPV at Advanced Auto parts. There is no single part in the engine that should run you $1000. Based on what you are describing, I'm not sure a corroded cable was your initial problem.
Based on your post, did you ever verify that the battery cable was $1000? I know this is what the new mechanic said and I know you called your former Mazda dealership but you never indicated the cost of the part was verified.
I would suggest canceling your appointment with the mechanic and taking it over to a Mazda dealer, no matter how inconvenient it is. Then read through this forum. I'm sure there are others who have had the same issue you are experiencing now. I have yet to see anyone talk about a bad battery cable causing this problem. EGR valve, bad ignition coil, yes but not corrosion on a battery cable.
In quantity, it's a very cheap part. Now perhaps they have no more in their system, but as another poster showed you via a link, a suitable replacement is going to cost 10s of dollars at most.
I'm so sorry for you. It really sounds as though someone has worked the situation and cost you big $$$, when that shouldn't have been the case.
Also, I apologize, but there's something about your story that isn't really adding up. Is there something you are omitting? I'm just having trouble with the information thus far presented.
Anyone know if this is something that a DIY'er could manage, or should I just take it in for service at a dealer ( I assume I'd have to get the part at a Mazda dealership anyway )?
Anyone know the cost of the part or service?
Thanks for any info!
Now at 53,000 miles my car just died, i was doing 55 with out my kids in the car ( I'm scared to put them in the Mazda) they think it is the alternator.
to make a short story long, this Mazda MPV was a waste of $25,000 plus.
Never Again
Turns out it's not too hard to replace. After removing the inner door handle ( little metal clip holds it by the collar ), you can wrestle off the interior cover ( held in by a bunch of those plastic clips ), then remove 3 bolts that hold the door handle assemby to the inner part of the door, then 2 nuts which hold the external door handle.
All in all, I say it took 30 mins to remove and 30 mins to put back.
Bummer was the door handle was $167 @ Mazda Parts department. FWIW, my wife said the parts department guy said he thought it was $100 to have it installed.
The Mazda Club Chat is on tonight. The chat room opens at 8:45PM ET Hope to see YOU there! Check out the schedule
:surprise:
Been years since I posted here when I bought my buggy. I am having a 'lazy drivers window' on my van at temps lower than 15 degrees. The window CREEPS up when trying to close it...goes down fine. Anyone have that issue? Took it in a couple weeks ago to my local Polar Bear and they just greased it and charged me $20...still no good. I have extended warranty that covers motors but you know Mazda; got to have the window fail totally before they do anything! (It's too cold to take a chance that the thing won't go back up sometime!)
Also - spark plugs. How long are folks letting them go? I had the front set replaced two years ago due to a cracked one. Left the back 3 go. I have 95K on her now and she still runs like a champ....should I replace them????
I'll post again with more info.
From the owners manual:
"The maximum GCWR is the combined weight of the trailer and load plus the
towing vehicle (including trailer hitch, vehicle passengers, and load). It must not
exceed specifications in the load table".
GCWR = 7,328 lbs
GVWR = 5,229 lbs = weight of vehicle plus trailer tongue weight
I think while it may seem to tow just fine, you may be exceeding the safety limits of the vehicle and putting yourself at risk of danger. Not to mention, exceeding the towing limits may be illegal in some states.
-Brian
Thanks for the information. We've done our research. Our MPV has a 4 season package. We spoke with our Mazda dealer and we have spoken with Brenderup. Not to mention we have done pre-purchase test rides with the horses. Brenderup horse trailers are made in Sweden and used widely in Europe. It's so American to assume that if you don't have a big gas guzzling truck you can't haul horses. The Brenderup tongue weight is 165 lbs. dry weight is 1,950 lbs. Vehicle requirements are atleast a 125 HP engine (MPV is 200 hp) with a 93" wheel base (MPV is 111.8" wheelbase).The Brenderup has a galvanized steel frame but the body is composite with a fiberglass roof. The trailer is aerodynamically designed with Inertia breaking. We do have electronic breaks for our camper but will never need to use them with the horse trailer. It's a really cool design and if more American's with horses would look into it, we might be able to save fuel! What a concept! :shades:
We have really reasearched this over a span of months and are breaking no laws. As far as risk, well, no matter what you tow or are towing with, there is always risk.
Leslie
I guess I can only say that you should be mindful of the overage. For instance, if you were to happen to get into an accident with the trailer, you may be found negligent for going over the mfg specs. I trust you're a careful driver, nevertheless.
-Brian
Which brings up another point: will your insurance even provide coverage?
If you're ok with the risks, then so be it.
-Brian
I really do appreciate all of your advice. I want to end this discussion with one statement. My husband and I are extremely intelligent people. We have been towing for a very long time. Give us some credit for knowing what we are doing. Also, you are going purely on speculation. You know nothing about Brenderup horse trailers. There are many variables in determining how well a vehicle is going to perform while towing. There are ways of retrofitting a vehicle with certain safety features that increase the amount it can tow. The specs on the trailer being towed also have to be considered. Again, we have done our homework and we have made any necessary changes to my MPV.
Oh and yes, the car, trailer and even the horses are insured. Mazda wouldn't cover my MPV anyway, it's over it's warranty as I've been driving it for 5 years.
Leslie
Stuff like that makes me nervous. Under ideal conditions it may work out just fine. But in the non-ideal real world something may happen (rain slick roads; need to make a sudden lane change; need to accelerate quickly out of trouble; any one of a thousand other scenarios) you may find things not working out as well as you thought they would.
You are right that there are always risks when pulling a trailer, but my preference would be to try to minimize those risks.
Well, I hope it works out for you and you have many years of happy towing and horse showing.
"My husband and I are extremely intelligent people" - so intelligent that you put others at risk towing without insurance coverage by violating the insurance companies policy? Your trailer might be the best thing since sliced bread but you are an idiot to risk the lives of others and yourself pulling that much weight on a MPV. Real smart move to become personally liable for knowingly exceeding the vehicles limits and opening yourself to be sued especially without coverage even if it was not your fault. Seems to me "extremely intelligent" would know this already...
However, weight is weight, 4400 lbs is greater than 3000 lbs, no matter the size, shape, circumference, moon phase, or how well the trailer does actually perform. You're subjecting the engine, tranny, and chassis to extra duty it was not designed for. You're exceding a limit knowingly, in the end that is never smart.
You've posted on a public forum where opinions and replies are commonplace. If you didn't want those, you shouldn't have posted here.
-Brian
"You are an idiot" EXCUSE ME?? You really have alot of nerve saying such a thing. I am not going to defend myself to the likes of someone like you.
I will no longer be posting. :mad:
Leslie
You can not defend yourself because there is no defense. Just call your insurance company and ask them and you will find the truth. Just don't leave out the stated tow weight limit and the weight of the trailer you wish to tow.
My wife worked for one of the largest insurers in the world for many years in risk management and now teaches insurance and risk management as a professor PhD. I know insurance and you clearly have no idea how insurance companies will deny claims for violations. The weight limit on vehicles are there more so for legal reason not always the ability of the vehicle to tow certain weight. Of course the vehicles ability is taken into account as well.
It is idiotic to put yourself and others at risk; if you choose to do so then yes you are an idiot. But no need to reply to the likes of me... I just wanted to rebuke your inability to consider the repercussions of your actions. Again don't take my word for it just pick up that phone and call you insurance company and ask and you will understand what I am saying.
:P
Do you even know what self righteous means? Good lord woman you are all over the place. Typical emotional responses. If you were able to put a rider into your policy towing way over the limit and they accepted this then good. At least you are covered. As far as you guys pulling this much weight in a MPV myself and others feel this is idiotic and you have a right to act this way if you wish. We shall lay this to rest and let you pull your livestock in peace. Just please stay out of the Atlanta area I would prefer you not to on the roads next to my family...
Thanks for your future cooperation.
As a mazda tech of 21 years, I can think of several reasons why pulling a 4klb trailer with ANY mazda mpv is unwise, but did you ever ONCE consider the horse's feelings?
My question- who is right here? Is an alignment required? And is the better service the one that includes new mounts and links which I dont think the dealer is including?
Thanks for your time
Just purchased a 96 MPV and so far it's been great. However, there are a few issues (it is 12 years old after all!).
The radio doesn't work. I've read that it's the "room" fuse for the radio, but it's okay. Is this correct or is there another fuse?
Also the shift lever is VERY stiff to move from Park when it's cold. Is there a way to lubricate it?
I've read the comments about the drivers window and I have the same problem. It goes down fine but coming up is another matter. I'll probably have the dealer look at it.
And if anyone else knows any specifics about this year and model (4x4) I'd appreciate the info.
Matt in NM
TCC
I cant comment specifically about the front end noise- its sounds like it could be suspension or tie rods. Our van is 5.5 years old- so I kind of expected the struts might need to be replaced at some point- just looking for the best price right now.
However, regarding your steering wheel issue- back in July '05 2 mos short of warranty expiration- had a weird experience- took it to a local mechanic we use regularly for brakes/oil etc- we had a flat in front- so we ordered 2 new continental conti premier contacts for the front- same exact size and ratings as OEM Dunlops- when I picked up the car- I noticed the steering wheel was off line about 1/3 of a turn- the car would drive straight though- brought it right back to the guy- they put it back on the lift and checked it out- everything ok except the steering wheel- they even checked the alignment and my front to back alignment and front only alignment were perfectly in sync. Now mind you, I had been complaining to the dealer for the past 6 mos about a sound coming from the steering wheel- it was faint but sounded like something rubbing or the sound of rubber stretching- So, I took the vehicle to them- they wanted to do an alignment- got it back but the steering wheel was still out of alignment. Took it back, they kept it for a couple of days- and replaced the clock spring in the steering mechanisms and re-aligned. The steering wheel was still off by about 1/3 of a turn and making this faint noise when turning- I took it back again to the dealer- this time I made the Service advisor drive with me- she could hear the sound and I showed her how off the steering wheel was with the wheels in the center position. I left the car and she called me the next day to tell me they were replacing the steering rack/column under warranty. Which they did and we were fine with the alignment of the steering wheel and the whees since that time. Hope that helps- you may want to push for a steering rack replacement under warranty- we were 2.5 years into the car with only 25K on the car.
Regards,
-Larry
Lg2207
I haven't had any of those issues(2004 LX -34,000)(knock on wood)
I'd try another Mazda dealership. The current one seems unable to find the problem... or even acknowledge it.
Now the bad: Underpowered w/too busy transmission. A lot of things went bad in 8 years.(most out of warranty of course) Here's a partial list: IAC valve, replaced all 3 catalytic converters, intake manifold gasket (twice), driver's side power window, coil pack, water pump, front axil bearing, radiator, all the O2 sensors (twice), EGR (twice). The last couple of years, there was always a check engine light lit on this van. To be fair to Mazda, if you put this kind of mileage on a vehicle , a lot of these repairs will have to be made, but I put a lot of money in this van and I was not happy with my experience with Mazda dealers and repair (way too long to explain here).
Why?, Well even with the mechanical problems we liked the van, and I subscribe to the concept that you compare yearly repair costs against a new car payment and go with the lower annual cost. This year the numbers finally flipped. (not to mention the aggravation of sitting in repair shop waiting rooms)
Finally, I did not buy another Mazda and probably never will. Their new vehicles are probably just fine, but the last few years have soured me on the company.
I've tried not to make this post a rant, but just a series of closing remarks on this vehicle.
Comments?, Other's experiences?
I have a 2003 that I bought new and have had some of the same issues you mentioned.
1 - Tell me about the Drivers Side power Window? I have an issue with it going up REAL slow in colder weather. Although we looked at several other newer models that had the same problem.
2 - Tell me about the COIL issue? I have not had mine replaced at 98K miles. Is this a warranty item - I have 2K left on my extended warranty! What happens when it goes?
3- Tell me about the front axle bearing? I've had my front rack replaced due to squeaking noises when turning the steering wheel. I also have a CREAK sound when going over speed bumps. They say that is normal - I know I know!
4- Catalytic Converter? Tell me more. I've never replaced one in any of my vehicles and I drive them for 170K usually. What happens when it is time for this to be replaced?
5- Gas Gauge not reading full when filled up! Was that under warranty? Did they need to replace a sensor for that?
Thank you for replies!
TCC
Please reply - Mine has a different engine than yours, so it's not SO underpowered.