Mazda MPV

jipster · January 2010

Sounds like the idle air control valve to me. If so may just need a good cleaning.

aa0526 · January 2010

I had that same error codes way back.

Initially - they thought it was the O2 sensor. The MPV has two ... one before the catalytic converter - and one after it. Combined, they cost about <$200.00.

However, further testing and pleading from me showed something else instead.

The MAF - mass air flow sensor was dirty. We thought it needed replacement - which was not too expensive. The tech guy simply cleaned it and the error codes never came back.

About 15-20K miles later, slightly same error codes came back ---
1. The EGR - hose / valve (made of rubber or PVC) was in need of replacement (again). It was initially replaced at 35K due to a recall. It was again worn out - the part was about <$70 but the labor was relatively high.Check the Mazda MPV recall history on this one. I am might be wrong about the exact name.

2. The MAF needed replacement. I cleaned it on more than one occasion but at 120K mileage - I think it was beyond its useful life - so I replaced it.

The problem has not come back since - am now at 132K.

I did notice that all these problems crop up during the cold winter months ...

subearu · January 2010

Yep, that issue sounds just like what our '02 is currently doing...although not today. I am now expecting the mechanic to find the PCV hose ruptured. Guess if that's the case, it lasted 5 years (or about 50k miles) in our case.

-Brian

tcc21 · January 2010

I have had that happen when it rains heavy or I drive in a rain storm. The front spark plug wire get's water seaping into it and the light comes on and it bucks real bad. After a day, it dries out and all fine. I know I could replace that cap/wire but it's not cheap. Those other replies are all similar to what I have otherwise although I didn't experience rough running with the catalytic mess or other items. Just the moisture problem. Been doing it since it was new too.

once_for_all · January 2010

I've had code P0171 a couple times, it has always turned out to be the Mass Air Flow sensor. There are a couple fine spring looking coils in the MAF that need to get sprayed with "mass air flow sensor cleaner".

The MAF is just downstream of the air filter. It can get lint and so forth from a new air cleaner.

But, your rough idle could also be due to the PVC hose collapsing and cracking (which creates a vacuum leak, and a lean condition). That hose can be about a $100 item...I've had to do mine twice in 88k miles, once as a dealer recall, once on my own wallet.

John

once_for_all · January 2010

anyone attempt to change these? I've got an '03 with 88,000, it threw a code misfire P0301 (misfire cylinder one) last week and is not running as smooth as normal. I'm guessing it's due for an early spark plug/plug boot replacement.

What plugs are you using? Rock Auto shows a bunch of options, looks like Bosch has an expensive Iridium replacement, super long life, etc...

John

jipster · January 2010

Could be the coil. I've read the best plug for the MPV is the OEM plug, Motorcraft or the NKG plug. Too bad on the 301 code, that's a hard one to get to.

once_for_all · January 2010

thanks for the reply...and thanks also to this board, I spent a couple hours on the MPVclub web site and read all about how to get at the coils. It actually sounds less daunting than I originally thought...I'll pick up 3 coils (for the back), and 6 plugs, and call it good for now.

Also might be rain related, it misfired and flashed the code last week during a big rain storm. As I learned, apparently the back coil packs can get wet. It's running fine again now that it has dried out.

John

jipster · January 2010

Glad to hear the MPV is running better. I had a front coil run rough when I ran over a large water puddle on the expressway. The second bad coil... had been raining for a few days. Both were covered under warranty. I've read some people say that their van ran fine again after drying out. How long did you have to air your MPV out?

once_for_all · January 2010

the misfire wasn't consistent from the get go, it threw the code and seemed to run ok after that, but not smooth.

I made a mistake about 5 years ago, hosed all the dust out of the engine compartment, and lost a coil in the back. That clean engine cost me about $400 I believe. Yikes. It's generally a bad design, I read that the OEM coils have a snorkel out the top for sucking in water...

John

butchsan · January 2010

When applying brakes at 50 :MPH or higher get hard chatter. Service man thinks its warped rotors., but at lower speeds no chatter or pulsing of brake pedal. Suspect ABS
problem . ;/anyone ;have any ideas?
Thanx Butchsan

subearu · January 2010

If it was the ABS, you'd hear it making it's racket as it applies the brakes a zillion times. Warped rotors often can be felt easier at highway speeds.

-Brian

tcc21 · January 2010

Yep. They are a poor design. I have the problem a couple times a year when I run into a strong rain storm...sometimes, when the vehicle just sits in heavy rain it will happen too. For me, it dries out in a day or so and all is fine again. I'm not ready to dump more money into this 2003 crate along with the new Catalytic converter message that keeps coming up every couple months! Poor design - mechanically. Nice looking vehicle for it's time. (Worse than that, there is no inside light over-ride - to shut them off if you leave a door open....they do shut off after 5 minutes - but that's a pain sometimes too!) One more thing - 2003 - no power door lock button on the passenger door. What the heck were they thinking on that one!! 2004, it was added back..dah!

pellet · March 2010

Does anyone know where i can get a free repair manuel,diagram of serpentine belt,and remove and install neew alternator? I cant seem to find anything for mazda free online, thanx

trx9805 · March 2010

We have a Mazda MPV 2000 with about 113,000 miles. For the past couple of years, we hear clicking noise from the front end. We have had the brakes, shocks and struts replaced but the noise keeps coming back. We live in the Chicago area, and during the winter, it seems that the noise was gone - we were relieved. Yesterday, as the weather is warming up, we started to hear it again.

Did anybody experience something like this?

jipster · March 2010

Did anybody experience something like this?

As a matter of fact, I'm currently experiencing the same thing on my 2004. Sounds like the sway bar links. Should be noticeable when turning while going over bumps, or just going over speed bumps etc, sometimes felt thru the steering wheel. There are 2 sway bar links, each attached to a front end tire. They are about $40-$50 a piece. My Mazda dealership quoted me a price of $276 just last week. It is not dangerous to drive on it I am told.

stever · March 2010

It's hit or miss.

Online Repair Manuals

I have the best luck with the online repair manual through my public library.

Steve, visiting host

jipster · March 2010

Probably more miss with the MPV.

aa0526 · March 2010

Mine is a 2002 with 135K.
Yes - I do have a clicking noise too ... over humps and certain road conditions.
Otherwise, there is no serious driving concerns.
I tried going under - and everything seems fine.
No issues on braking nor turning.

stever · March 2010

I did find this (my library has the Auto Repair Reference Center):

2.5L Engine

Install or connect the following:
Alternator. Tighten the bolts to 2941 ft. lbs. (4050 Nm).
Center shaft support bracket. Tighten the bolts to 3245 ft. lbs. (4361 Nm).
Alternator harness connectors. Tighten the battery terminal nut to 87130 inch lbs. (1015 Nm).
Right axle halfshaft and center shaft assembly
Exhaust front pipe
Subframe transverse section. Tighten the bolts to 6996 ft. lbs. (94131 Nm).
Accessory drive belt
Negative battery cable

3.0L Engine

Install or connect the following:
Alternator
Alternator harness connectors. Tighten the battery terminal nut to 4460 inch lbs. (57 Nm).
Power steering pulley. Tighten the nut to 2943 ft. lbs. (4058 Nm).
Accessory drive belts. Tighten the alternator lockbolt to 1418 ft. lbs. (1925 Nm) and the pivot bolt to 2838 ft. lbs. (3851 Nm).
Negative battery cable

I don't see a pic for the 2.5. Try this for the 3.0 V-belt routing:

Mazda MPV V-belt

sramamur1 · February 2011

Sorry for cross-sposting.

Hello Everyone;

This is a great forum and I have been able to get very valuable tips on our Mazda 2003 MPV in the past. Now we have a weird problem:

Whenever the parking break is engaged, the "parking break" sign lights up on the dashboard. In addition, the "door open" sign also lights up on the dashboard and all the interior lights are on (even with all the doors closed!!). When the parking break is disengaged, the "parking break" and the "door open" signs go off in the dashboard and the interior light turn off as well.

Looks like there is a short somewhere in the system. Can someone please help me about the possible causes?

Thanks,

Sri.

tcc21 · February 2011

That does sound like a short. I have a 2003 MPV and I HATE the auto doors I have on it. They are more of a nuisance then a handy thing to have. They freeze up in the winter. Get stuck halfway sometimes and don't close/shut off lights sometimes too. I've got 150K miles on her now and am holding my breath. I would like to get 2 more years out of her since I don't put on that many miles anymore. Good luck. These things are notorious for many issues. I have not heard of yours before. My issue is the Check Eng. light coming on due to a malfunctioning sensor related to the converter. Eng. runs fine, so I just let the stupid light stay on. Not worth 1200 dollars to fix!

myraven17 · October 2011

The bearings in the wheel hub is bad, you can purchase one for about $40 and have it pressed in and you should be ok after that.

buzzk · October 2011

I'd guess by now the problem is fixed; if not, a worn C-V joint might make a similar sound - usually when turning - more than going straight. The notion of the source being loose sway bar bushings, particularly if associated with hitting bumps, is reasonable. I have a somewhat similar sound in one of my sedans that does apper to be caused by loose sway bar bushings.

Cheers, BK

tcc21 · October 2011

I have a 2003 with 160K on her. I've had the check eng. light on issue many times. I use to get it cleared just to be sure there wasn't a new issue but it usually is the "bank 1 misfire - cold startup" issue or the catalytic converter issue.
The front end also was replaced under extended warranty around 95K miles. It was a worn tie rod issue. Yes, you do hold your breath with these things! I also would like to hang onto mine two more years. We'll see.

mpv2005 · December 2011

The Check Engine light on my 2005 MPV with 89K miles, has been coming on. I'm getting either P2187 (System too lean at idle bank 1) or P2189 (System too lean at idle bank 2) codes.

I removed the MAFS and sprayed it with electronic contact cleaner, but that did not resolve it.

The CE light sometimes turns off by itself, and it is more likely to come back on when the weather is wet. That leads me to think there may be a bad contact somewhere, but if its not the MAFS, what can it be?

The engine runs fine; idling, cold-start, acceleration, etc are fine.

I'm looking for suggestions on what can be causing the codes before I go to the dealer. Thanks!

jipster · December 2011

Oxygen sensors and IAC valve have been known to be problematic in the MPV.

CE light in wet weather usually means ignition coils. But, you say van runs fine. :confuse:

glbright · October 2014

Any old model MPV owners still hanging around this discussion. My 1993 Mazda MPV 4WD just turned 240000 miles and is a daily driver. Lots of issues over the years, but I've always felt is was a keeper. Nothing like it since. And its looks are so unique. Here pictured next to our 2003 Mazda Tribute

stever · October 2014

Still looks good!

Mazda MPV

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