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Comments
In our case, once we moved out of New Jersey (where it was illegal to pump your own gas), our engine light problems went away.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Still need to drive more to finish the fuel in the tank.
The company that is now my main client has recently moved their offices to a building that has its parking lot right at the entrance ramp to the freeway that I travel to and from home. Given the close proximity of the ramp to where I park, I'm usually up to 70 and on Cruise Control within a minute and a half of engine start, which is obviously long before the innards of my engine and transmission have warmed up to operating temperature. With this in mind, I make very sure that I never exceed 3,000 rpms during my climb up the ramp and up to speed, and as such I'm not at all worried about damaging anything.
What is weird is that once the CC is engaged, the engine settles in at around 2,600 rpms at about 71 mph, and stays there for maybe four or five miles before the torque converter apparently locks up and drops the rpms down to its more normal 2,200 revs.
Given that this is the first Automatic transmission equipped vehicle I've commuted with since 1975, I find this behavior strange. Do y'all suppose the transmission control unit is programmed to prevent lock-up until everything is warmed up or could the initial failure to lock-up simply have to do with the wider open throttle position that always comes with a cold engine at any given load?
Do any of y'all have any thoughts on this?
Best Regards,
Shipo
Yes!
Best Regards,
Shipo
After agreeing it's trans fluid they tell her it's a seal, and repair it. Even tried to hand her a 600 bill for repair!
Upon reading the receipt (and not paying for warranty work), we read that the front pump was replaced. Isn't this the torque converter?
Salesman (of course) swore that T&C trans problems have all been resolved in newer models. My question is do I have the same problematic transmission they've been using for so long? Thanks for any insight.
I had the transmission fluid and filters changed by a reputable mechanic about two weeks ago. Someone told me that the mechanic probably did not get the bearings or something under the filter back in place which directs the tranny fluid to the different areas of the tranny...is he correct?
If the mechanic tells you he used anything else, you'll need to flush that transmission. Don't let the mechanic tell you that using something other than ATF3 or ATF4 is OK. It is NOT.
Using the wrong transmission fluid is the number one reason for transmission problems in Chryslers.
So I need help. A garage told me there is a replacement switch or part that my fix the problem with power to the instrument panel as well as it will cause the transmission to not let it perform in reverse.
They will overhaul it (dont know what that realy mean). Everything will be covered except some cooling thing they need to change will cost me $200. They think that cooling part has caused the Tranx failover. They are ordering all the parts from accross the country so it will take some time. They also give me a rental for 5 days maximum.
I dont know what is the difference between an Overhaul or Rebuild. I hope whatever they do works fine.
This chrysler dealer was real good.
After getting a "front pump" replacement I wonder if I should be concerned about an '05 needing a trans in the future. I keep my vehicles for a very long time when practical. Owned 2 vehicles in the last 25 years! And I drive more than average. Thank you.
Dusty had said in #864 that if a restart fixes a problem it Almost always is not the trans . I know that this may not be the case with my problem, but it gives at least a little hope that the dealer is wrong.
Does anyone have a second or third opinion as to the problem ( if not a stuck valve ), and/or a possible solution that is easier than a rebuild ?
Thanks, Jeff K.
My apologies but my response in #864 has misled you.
In that scenario I was meaning a PCM/TCM reset that is performed by disconnecting the vehicle battery. This wipes the shift algorithm from the TCM and puts it in the default mode.
In general, correct transmission performance after a reset by simply restarting indicates that the major components are probably healthy as long as the condition is not accompanied by a fault code or "limp in" mode indication.
If a problem occurs after a restart and there is a fault code or "limp" mode indicated, it generally means that there is a problem with a component.
In your case a P1776 code is not listed in the book I have. I'm pretty sure your problem is not the TCM. However, I think a sticking front servo or accumulator, or loss of line pressure could cause your symptoms. Of course, a problem in the valve body wopuld be the first thing I'd look for, so your tech's thought is logical.
You say this is a reman. How many miles on this transmission and did a Dodge dealer install this? A good reman shouldn't have a problem as long as the correct ATF is used.
Sorry for the poorly written statement.
Good luck,
Dusty
Thanks for the response. Your answers have been very helpfull to me in my researching efforts.
The original tranny blew a pin thru the side after apx. 90 thoasand. The dealer put in the reman. about 50 thoasand miles ago. They say they only use ATF fluid, and I trust them in that.
They said they didn't recommend just trying to replace the valve body because if the converter was deteriorating it would eventually foul another valve.(or something like that)
I'm not sure if that alternative would end up being the least expensive in the long run. What do you think?
Thanks again,
Jeff
Does anyone have info on the more recent models, maybe the 05-06? I like many of the dodge products, but I really hate the deal wiht the tranny problem again.
Best regards,
Dusty
What I appear to be seeing lately on Dodge versions is a problem related to a seal failure that allows ATF to enter the solenoid cavity. This disturbs the operation of the shift solenoid. Newer replacement shift packs should resolve the issue.
Regards,
Dusty
Now my transmission has a nasty growl when ever it's shifted to 1st or reverse. The growl does seem so wuiet down when it gets up to 4th gear.
Late fall I did a filter/fluid change & noticed lots of FUZ on the magnet. Cleaned magnet, pan & replaced filter. Same growl as before. Fluid clean & shifts w/o problems.
Ideas suggestions? I'm past warranty of course and purchasing dealer fast at writing up two quotes, One from refurb trans/torqe swap ($2.500) and the 2nd quote was rebuild at dealership ($1,600).
Almost tempted to rebuild myself but not sure if I'd need to rebush & new pump & such.
I love this van! Keep it new looking inside & out, remote starter and best of all...It's paid for!
Ideas, suggestions?
If you find out that these are doable by a reasonably competent mechanic without super specialized tools and equipment, please let me know. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
I'm just afraid that the growling might mean a bad pump or perhaps a new bushing. More than a standard rebuild kit.
It seems that you have more recent experience that I do as the last tranny I did was the venerable A-904 unit from an old slant six Valiant. Geez, I think I'm getting old. :-/
Best Regards,
Shipo
So now we are on the financial hook for the storefront, and the damage to our vehicle. Not sure what step to take next as the minivan has been towed off to the dealership for inspection. Our daughter was in the back asleep at the time this happened. Luckily no one was hurt. Am glad the van was pointed towards the store and not out towards the highway.
When i called the dealership they acted surprised at this problem. The car was scheduled to be looked at next week, so now they have it a week early. I hope I am not forced to pay for all the damages.
You said " So now we are on the financial hook for the storefront, and the damage to our vehicle". Do you all have insurance? Sometimes when accidents happen, people call their insurance companys and get them involved. :confuse: Just a thought!!
I realize this is a little off topic but, your wife left your daughter in the back asleep? :confuse:
Any idea on what it could be?
thanks
It does not like to down shift out out 3rd gear when you drop in RPM. So you are cruising along, come up on a slight grade, at constant petal the RPMS drop, you would think a downshift would be order. Instead it stays in 3rd at 35 mph and a low drone freq. develops.
You can force a downshift by pressing the accel. to the floor. Perhaps this is is by passing 2nd and dropping to 1st?
Now tonight, it seams to shift forward quickly, pull out of stoplight and it shifts into 2nd and 3rd very quickly.
It has gotten more and more evident. Seems worse when cold.
Have you seen this before Is this sensors? Seals? Solonoids?
Is there a place to view technical exploded views?
Thanks for you help. Mike
Does this problem I have sound like a shift pack issue?
Thanks, Mike
Best Regards,
Shipo
For example: cruising on level highway at 60 MPH - what is the average RPM. I just had a transmission oil change and it now appears that I am running at a higher RPM than before. Cruising at 60 MPH level highway -- I am at 2200 RPM, I recall being under 2,000 RPM. Any thoughts? Thanks.
1) What model year are you talking about? We have both a 1998 and a 2003 with the 3.8, and off the top of my head, I cannot remember if they display the same RPMs at any given speed or not.
2) When you saw the 2200 RPM reading, was the van warmed up? I ask because given my current work location, I'm up to my normal 65-70 mph cruising speed within a minute and a half of engine start. What I've noticed is that for the first few minutes at speed my RPMs hover somewhere over 2500 and then drop to more like 2200. Clearly what is happening is that once the transmission is warmed up the Torque Converter locks up and drops the RPMs accordingly.
3) Who performed your transmission oil change? Are you absolutely sure that the proper transmission fluid was used? I ask because I've heard that if the incorrect fluid is used the various computer controlled clutches will enter a never ending engage/disengage/engage cycle (and destroy the transmission in fairly short order). Assuming that is the case, then logic would suggest that the RPMs would rise somewhat given the constant slipping of the clutches.
Best Regards,
Shipo
The trans oil was changed at a Chrysler dealership. Hopefully, they used the correct oil. I did not double check but I expect that they should know their products.
I recall that the normal RPM in 4th was less than 2000. I am wondering if other people experience the same or is cruising at 2200 normal. Also, can you feel when the torque converter locks up?
So, for a 1998 DGC with the 3.8 liter mill, 1850 is the number.
Best Regards,
Shipo
- Feel? No.
- Hear? Hmmm, maybe, depends if I've got the audio system on loud or not. If it's off or low enough, I can hear a slight drop in the note of the engine.
- See? Yes. There is a noticable 400 RPM drop when the torque converter locks up.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Question: For 97 AWD, is the overrunning clutch a concern? Prone to failure? Should I service it as often as the transmission?
??? Is my failure described in first message a shift pack issue?
Thanks, Mike
They were able to fix the problem. They told me that after the transmission oil change, when the car was started the computer sensed the low oil pressure in the transmission and put the trans in default emergency mode, thus causing the lock-up to cease and abrupt shifting in the gears. After reprogramming the computer, transmission problem was fixed.
I am glad for the repair, I just wish that I wouldn't have to take it back twice for a simple transmission oil change at a dealership.
"I am glad for the repair, I just wish that I wouldn't have to take it back twice for a simple transmission oil change at a dealership."
I'll fault the dealership for that one, that problem should have been caught on what should have been a mandatory test drive. Were I you I'd be inclined to make a little noise and see if I couldn't wrangle a free oil change or some such. ;-)