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Best Regards,
Shipo
I'm really thinking that you need to find a different dealer. These transmissions are VERY easy to find and they do not cost any $3,600 either. We have the 3.8 liter engine in our 1998 DGC (which means that we too have the 4-Speed OverDrive transmission), and when the torque converter failed this spring my local dealer located AND installed a factory remanufactured transmission in three days. Cost? $2,600.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Your most recent post about your transmission woes seem to indicate that you've been dealing with a less than scrupulous dealer (not an unheard of thing for any brand). That you had to pay as much as you were charged (and then apparently had to wait for the pleasure) leads me to believe that you've not necessarily been treated the best. As for which engine and transmission you have; yes, I know that you have a Mitsubishi engine. What I was trying to say is that our vans have nearly identical transmissions and to refute what ever you were told about the availability. Like it or not, there have been millions of these vans made over the years, and there are plenty of these transmissions in the rebuilt/remanufactured pipeline.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Prefer not to deal with Chrysler on this item due to excessive markups on parts.
http://www.haydenauto.com/hdoilcoolers.htm
There are several models, rated according to GVW. I put in the biggest "Rapid-Cool" unit I could fit in there. I did the install myself. The kit comes with everything that one needs. The cost was about $70.
If you have a choice, choose a plate-and-stack type cooler as there are more durable and efficient. The pipe-and-fin types work too, just not as well in my opinion.
Good Luck.
Thanks.
All told, it took about 2 hours, allowing for a couple of beer breaks. Be sure that you route the hoses carefully so that they do not chafe against anything.
Repair shop replaced control mod today---still having same problem.
can this be fixed reasonably?
(3.3 engine)
( VALVE PROBLEM ) THREE DROPS OF BRAKE FLUID IN THE TRANS
AT FOUR MONTH INTERVALS WILL CURE THE SHIFT PROBLEM AND
AT 150,000 MILES YOU CAN TRADE A GOOD TRANS IN ON A GOOD VEHICLE .( SAME KIND )
YOU MUST ALSO CHANGE THE OIL ( 1 GALLON IN THE PAN )
AT LEAST TWICE A YEAR . THESE TRANSMISSIONS REALLY NEED THE ADDITIVES THAT KEEP THE SHIFT PATTERN SMOOTH .
I KNOW HOW TO FIX THE TRANS ,BUT IT IS A PILE OF TROUBLE FOR THE AVERAGE AUTO MECHANIC AND UNLESS YOU HAVE A DEGREE IN STATIONARY ENGINEERING , YOU WONT KNOW WHAT I AM TALKING ABOUT ( EVEN STAT. :sick: ENG`S DONT UNDERSTAND IN MOST CASES .)
IT IS NOT A SIMPLE FIX FOR CHRYSLER
FWIW, given that the above post was your very first here at Edmunds two things occur to me:
1) Said post was hard to read as it was all in "caps" and as such it comes off as somebody who is just ranting (and thus easy to ignore), and
2) Until you've posted here for a while your credibility is highly suspect and from my perspective at least, very easy to discount.
If I've unjustly dismissed your claims, please, offer some supporting science to back up what seems to be a preposterous recommendation.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Larry
Good luck.
My question today: My recent purchase has been great for the first 700 miles. To be protective, I took it to the dealer to have the trans fluid flushed and filter changed. The next 100 miles I have been driving (past few days) the hard downshift started as I coast down past 30 mph. Thud each time. I still have the rest of the 2000 mile, 2 month lubricated drive train parts warrantee, so I will take it back to the dealer, since it ran well until they changed the fluid and filter. What could have happened? What should I insist on that they will probably give me a hard time about?
I read about the early model 2003s having bad pumps. Maybe the pressure is low when coasting at low engine rpm. How come the problem started after the fluid change. What could they have screwed up?
I will try to take it in Friday, 10/20/06. Any advice forthcoming I could use very soon.
I took my car to the dealer with copies of the TSBs in hand pointing out what I expected them to do per Chrysler instructions. I did not expect them to do the more major surgery of dropping the trans to replace the pump, on the 2000 mile used car warantee. Unfortunately I was right. They only did the controller software update, which supposedly re-taught the trans how to shift properly (their words).
So far, after 1 week of driving, it worked. But they did agree, if I had further problems of this type, since it was now documented, they would "fix" it again, even after the 2000 mile warantee ran out (a few more weeks from now) They didn't say how long after the expiration. When I tried to pin them down, they just mumbled.
They said it was possible that the TSB had already been performed by a previous owner, and the new pump was in there, but had no way of knowing without pulling the trans. They further stated that the tech should have reflashed the controller when he did the fluid/filter change, and if he had, I would not have had any problems.
Comments anybody???
The tech should reflash the controller? Wow. I'd like to have shipo's opinion on that. This is great if they reflash automatically, but I suspect that if you don't tell them, maybe they won't do the reflash.
True story: I did the European Delivery thing on my 2002 530i and while in Europe, that car performed flawlessly. When I picked it up here in the States I immediately noticed a trailing throttle to on throttle hesitation, sometimes much worse than others. I initially attributed it to the different fuel we have over here in the States, assuming that once the fuzzy logic drive-by-wire system became accustomed to the new fuel (and the driving speeds below 120 mph) that the problem would self correct. Unfortunately as days became weeks and then months without any improvement I took it to my new local dealer (I'd moved from NJ to NH in the meantime) and had them look into the problem.
The mechanic test drove my car and initially dismissed the problem by saying "All of the manual transmission cars do that."
I of course countered with, "Yeah, bull. It didn't do that when I had it in Europe."
"It didn't?" He sounded genuinely surprised.
"Nope, ran perfectly."
He took it back into the shop and found that the computer carried a firmware revision that was released while my car was on the boat and as such couldn't possibly have been the original code. He reflashed the OBC with the (then) latest and greatest firmware version and problem solved. Had I known that the Vehicle Prep Center (VPC) or my selling dealership was going to do an obligatory reflash I would have done everything in my power to prevent that.
Note to self, "For your next ED car leave a note in it demanding no reflash." ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
The check engine light came on and I am getting a P0700 and P0740 Error Code.
This is what I found on the web
P0740-TORQUE CONVERTER CLUTCH CONTROL CIRCUIT
When Monitored: During Electronically Modulated Converter Clutch (EMCC) Operation.
Set Condition: A) Transmission must be in EMCC, with input speed > than 1750 RPM.
TCC/L-R sol achieves the maximum duty cycle & can’t pull engine RPM within 60 RPM of
input speed. Transmissions is in FEMCC & engine slips TCC > than 100 RPM for 10
seconds.
Tcc solenoid possible causes
• Check for misfire codes
• Intermittent TCC solenoid
• Check the TRANS fluid level and condition
• Input shaft seals
• Internal problem or TCC solenoid
• Oil pump/shaft/seals
• Torque converter
• Valve body
This is what happened. I checked my transmission fluid and it was low I added 2 quarts ATF+3
A few days later the check engine light came on.
I checked the transmission fluid and it seamed to be too high, I replaced all of the fluid with ATF+4.
“Disconnected the hose from the radiator, ran the engine while adding fluid through the dip stick.”
Problem not solved brought it to the dealer toque converter flying apart, pump pressure low, I need a new transmission $3500.
Brought it to a transmission shop, recommended I try changing the filter if that doesn’t solve the problem just run the car the way it is.
A rebuilt transmission would cost $2500
Went home changed the filter there was sludge in the pan and on the magnet, nothing unusual but I don’t think I would know a problem if I say one.
I red a lot of talk on the web about the P0740 code but nothing on what they did to fix it.
I reset the code and took the van on the highway. Steadily accelerated to 70 mph. The light did not come on, going up a slight incline at 70mph and the light came on. I repeated this twice.
The check engine light has to be reset each time it comes on.
Any advice would be appreciated, I have some questions.
Does the computer monitor the TCC all the time it is engaged or just when the engagement takes place?
Where is the TCC solenoid, is it in the solenoid pack bolted to the front of the transmission?
Could this be the problem? Can it be removed and cleaned?
I am assuming the valve body is the assembly that the filter attaches to, can I remove this myself and if so what do I do with it once it is removed, can it be cleaned?
What can I do to check for and eliminate each of the potential causes?
• Check for misfire codes
• Intermittent TCC solenoid
• Check the TRANS fluid level and condition
• Input shaft seals
• Internal problem or TCC solenoid
• Oil pump/shaft/seals
• Torque converter
• Valve body
Thanks for your help
Tony tony
i know, this is what happened all 3 times our 2001 T&C Limited transmission failed in the last 2 years. Just replaced it for the third time this week.
My wife drives like a grandma, so I can assure you it's not from improper driving. I will never buy another chrysler.
here's what it does. when you put it in drive it goes through first gear fine then it shifts to 2nd and just makes a whining noise and acts like it want to move but dont. if you put it in reverse it goes backwards like normal. To get it to move forward you have to shut it off and re-start it. are the bands just tore up or do i need a hole new tranny?
Looks like I am joining the club of Town and Country transmission woes. I'm getting the P0740 code as well. Both shops say I need a new transmissinon. I have a 2001 LXI with 95K miles. I'm shocked how bad this is. Chrysler just told me too bad and they are not going to help. I too will be out sharing the news to never buy Chrysler again. They do not stand behind their cars and are horrible quality. I'm strictly Toyota and Honda now. I urge people to run from Chrysler.
When do you get the error when you are going over 55 MPH ?.
Did you do anything that was different, changing the transmission fluid, adding fluid?
Let me know how it works out and I will keep you up to date on my situation.
tonymacchiaroli@yahoo.com
Of the three DGCs in our neighborhood only one of them has required a transmission (one of ours @ 109,000 miles). To my way of thinking at least, 100,000 miles on a slush-box transmission isn't at all bad, and as such when the transmission in our 1998 went out last Spring I didn't hesitate for a moment regarding what to do. I simply had a factory remanufactured unit installed as quickly as possible.
Run from Chrysler? Not me. My wife and I have owned cars from Japan, America and Germany and by far the two DGCs that we own have been the most reliable of the bunch (well, two of the German cars were ultra reliable too, they just didn't get driven as many miles).
Best Regards,
Shipo
The same goes for the coolant. Extended life coolant doesn't mean it lasts for the life of the vehicle, just that it lasts longer than traditional antifreeze.
I have a 2006 Town and Country that I bought in May this year. This past friday when I was heading out to work I put the car in reverse and the car didn't move. I put it in drive and the car didn't move either. I'm not sure if its a tranmission problem or not. The parking brake is off. Nothing out of the ordinary has happened, I parked the car thursday night and friday I was about to take it to work and it just doesn't move.
To me it feels like the brakes are engaged for some reason and they are not being released. When I put the car in reverse or drive it feels like the car wants to move but something is stopping it from moving and thats why I think the brakes are engaged.
Has anyone had this problem or even heard about it? Again this is a new car, a 2006 Town and Country with about 6K miles on it.
I have it scheduled to be towed Monday morning to the dealer but I wanted to hear if somebody else has had this problem.
Thanks for your input.
Abhay.
I would bet that is the same case on Honda automatics that fail. I'm actually wondering if anyone can build a decent minivan transmission for a big engine.
Specific to the transmissions in our two 3.8 liter DGCs, the one in our 1998 failed a few months after our local dealership introduced ATF+4 into the transmission for the first time. Was that what caused the failure? Many folks say "not a chance", however, there is plenty of evidence to suggest otherwise. Either way, the original tranny on that van managed to go 109,000 miles (exactly) before it went Tango Uniform. The tranny on our 2003 is fast approaching 80,000 trouble free miles and given that it is a newer and more robust generation of transmission, my bet is that it will see the far side of 150,000 miles before it even thinks of acting up.
The good news for DC minivans in the future is that the current 4-Speed transaxle is at the end of its life, and even if it has become a robust and long lived transmission, it cannot easily escape its stigma of being plagued by problems. A year from now the Gen5 DC vans should be on the road and by all accounts these new vans should be sporting an all new 6-Speed automatic gear box on many (if not all) models. Will that one develop a reputation of being more reliable? Only time will tell, however, it is my understanding that momma Daimler had a lot of input into the gearbox and that it should prove out to be a good transmission.
Best Regards,
Shipo
What you are saying makes sense. Will note carefully if looking at Chryslers when replacing the Ody - which won't be any time too soon despite its 110K. I figure at this point I value no car payments over a new car.
I believe that the 2.4 liter engine is still available on some SWB Caravans, although I haven't checked that one in quite some time. The much maligned Mitsubishi 3.0 liter V6 is thankfully long gone while the Flex-Fuel Chrysler 3.3 liter unit is still very much in production and in favor with many mini-van drivers.
"What you are saying makes sense. Will note carefully if looking at Chryslers when replacing the Ody - which won't be any time too soon despite its 110K. I figure at this point I value no car payments over a new car."
Same boat I was in earlier this year. When the tranny in our 1998 bailed I was looking at either a new van and payments (something I haven't had for quite some time) or spending $2,600 on a factory remanufactured unit for that van. Considering the fact that it only had 109,000 miles on it, has an engine in it that now at the 130,000 mile mark still isn't using any oil and has been otherwise generally reliable (I've spent something like $300 in unscheduled repairs beyond the transmission), I figured that the $2,600 was money well spent.
Regarding the factory reman units, they are built to the latest engineering build (i.e. model year 2000 build or newer) of that generation of transmission and as such they are designed to use the new fully synthetic ATF+4 tranny fluid. Said another way, the replacement transmissions will most likely outlast the factory unit by tens (or even hundreds?) of thousands of miles.
Best Regards,
Shipo
The transmission in the Ody was a factory remanufacture from, I believe, 2004. We hope for the best there. Should there be a failure the old quote was somewhere in the $5 - 6K range! (This is why there is really something to be said about domestics - cheaper parts!) At that point I'd have to think about it. Another factor that I'd take into account is that the local independent transmission shop does really excellent work and cheaper than the dealer. I'd certainly consider him.
I think you're absolutely correct, if I needed a new tranny for an Odyssey that was outside the warranty period, I would almost certainly use an independent shop that offered a good warranty. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
I have a 1998 Grand Caravan. A while back, we had the lower ball joints replaced, and in the process, my mechanic replaced both axels as well. He said they were a tad loose, and it was relatively inexpensive since he already had everything apart. Well, since then, I have had a small nuisance leak coming from the axel seal on the drivers side. I have taken it to 4 different places (no dealers though) including a transmission specific shop, and no one can figure out why the seal is leaking. The seal itself has now been replaced about 6 times. I was just wondering if anyone else out there has had the same problem, and if so, what the fix might be.
Thanks,
Brian
My wife loves her minivan so we traded in the '96 T&C in 2001 for a brand new Dodge GC ES and again took an extended warranty. At about 50k miles the transmission failed and was replaced under the extended warranty.
Pretty sad, huh? These are the only two cars I've ever taken an extended warranty on, and it obviously was money well spent.
Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice, shame on me. Honda, here I come!
The original 4-speed ECT is still shifting fine - no transmission replacements here. I change engine oil every 3 months/3K miles (Mobil 1 5W-30), and ATF every 20K miles.
Re. the "Up until a few days ago . . ." statement: the head gasket on the front bank of cylinders on the 3.3L V6 began leaking badly on Saturday, so the Grand Caravan ES may have come to the end of its road. It's unfortunate, as the exterior and interior are excellent. The independent shop wants $1,500 to $2,500 to replace the head gasket(s), which is not really cost-effective. Their estimate is almost entirely labor, as the cost of a FelPro complete head gasket set from most parts houses is around $100. So, I may be spending my next few weekends doing this one myself!
All in all, it's really been an excellent vehicle.