Chrysler Minivan Transmission Problems

dustyk · July 2005

You don't say how many miles is on the vehicle nor how many is on the rebuild. You should not have had a problem with the rebuild if it had been a quality job.

Whether its worth investing $2500 in to it is dependent on the overall condition and miles. Does it need any other type of mechanical work? Does the total exceed the value of the vehicle?

As it stands now no vehicle is worth much with a bad transmission. A $4000 high mileage mini-van with a bad transmission is worth about $500. It may pay to get it fixed.

On the other hand it might be worth a second opinion, too. You didn't state the failure symptoms, but a lot of Chrysler transmission problems are not complete failures. A dirty valve body or bad shift solenoids can be fixed for a lot less that $2500. I might recommend another Chrysler or Dodge dealer, however.

Good luck,
Dusty

lonallen · August 2005

Recently the instrument panel (digital display) on my wife's 1994 Town
& Country went haywire. Whenever you put a load on the electrical
system (power windows, interior lights, apply the brakes (brake lights
I guess), head lights, etc) the instrument cluster flashes off and then
goes through its power up test and then displays normal. It can get to
where it does this several times a second to the point that you have a
blank display with flashes of lights only in certain segments. If you have the ignition off and open the drivers door the panel powers up and displays the main
information along with the mileage. Once you start the engine it just
goes flashing like a discotec.
Any clues as to the cause of this? I have heard that these digital displays goe bad, but wouldn't that just be the printed circuit board each of the gauges is plugged into? Or is there a controller (BCM) that is responsible for driving the display?

Thanks,

Lon Allen

badgerfan · August 2005

Well, this discussion is supposedly only on transmissions, however I will give your question a shot.

Have the battery checked out. Even though it still may be starting the car OK, these minivans seem to be very sensitive to low voltage which drives the displays crazy.

Could also be a bad voltage regulator or altenator, I suppose. Many auto parts stores will do a free diagnostic of your battery and charging system. I would try that first.

sfuchs · August 2005

Good evening.

I just purchased a 1994 Dodge Caravan SE with 140k. I've looked through 15+ pages and dont see a problem similar to mine.

Let it be said that I purchased the vehicle with knowledge of this existing issue, so it's no shock. For $750, it's got a strong motor, good interior, and all accessories work. So I guess I did okay.

The meat of my trans problem is as follows: when going steady between 30-40 MPH, the transmission will rapidly slip in/out of overdrive. It feels and sounds almost identical to going over a double set of train tracks.

Accelerating, decelerating, or hitting the OD switch all make it stop immediately.

My thoughts are solenoids or (hopefully not) the OD clutch.

Transmission fluid is clear, clean and smells like a spring garden. (okay not really a spring garden unless you were growning ATF flowers).

Anyhow, Outside of that I'm pretty happy with it. I admit I'm rather surprised to read that 100+k is outside the average life expectancy of a DC transmission. I suppose I'm spoiled by German engineering.

isellhondas · August 2005

I'll take the reliability of a Chrysler over a German car any day!

dustyk · August 2005

I've seen weak and failing batteries cause the craziest things on Chrysler products, so Baderfan suggestion is right-on.

Another sometimes problem on your year's mini-van is the Central Timer Module (CTM) going bad.

Best regards,
Dusty

dustyk · August 2005

The 41TE transmissions typically go better than 100,000 miles in average service, with a majority going 150K or more before serious repairs are required. Many go 200,000 with good routine maintenance.

Check the underside of the hood for the presence of a decal indicating a Transmission Control Module (TCM) flash. For the years '93-'95, there should be at least two if the previous owners had this vehicle serviced for torque converter shudder. Chrysler issued several flash updates for these years all related to shift anomalies and torque converter engagement problems.

If your vehicle was flashed and this vehicle has been driven for some time with this condition, there unfortunately is a good chance that the torque converter clutch is badly worn. There are other things that should be considered, however. Despite the apparent condition, the ATF could be degraded (oxidized) or contaminated with a quantity of Dexron-Mercon. Dexron-Mercon in a Chrysler transmission will cause the same symptom. If you haven't done this, I would recommend a transmission filter change and a fluid flush. The anti-drain back valve should be removed and flushed, or replaced at the same time. In addition, the battery should be disconnected for at least two minutes and reconnected. This will force the TCM through a retrain with the new fluid.

Most of the time this symptom is caused by an intermittent EMCC TCC signal that causes partial engagement of the solenoid. The torque converter solenoid could be weak or there could be a bad (intermittent) electrical connection at the solenoid. This is very, very common. The governor piston could be worn (they mushroom at the end from actuation) or the under drive clutch could be bad. The TCM could be bad, also.

Strange at it may seem, ignition components can cause this very same symptom, either spark plug wires or distributor cap and rotor, and worn spark plugs.

Best regards,
Dusty

lonallen · August 2005

Thanks for the help. Do you know where the CTM is located on the 1994 T&C? What I have noticed since my original post that the display is good when you open the drivers door (it powers up to display the mileage), but after it either times out or the ignition is turned on it displays nothing. Sounds like whatever relay switches it over to the ignition circuit is bad. I would expect that this might be in the CTM.

Lon Allen

lonallen · August 2005

My appologies. I had a difficult time figuring out where on this board to post this message. Even worse, I had a difficult time figuring out where my post ended up. Sorry...

davez525 · August 2005

I dont know if this is the trans or not but, after driving freeway speeds for approx 10-15 minutes (70+mph) the car wants to pull slightly to the right....almost like it has a mind of its own but moments later the pull ceases.

At the same time, it shimmes unless I add throttle at which time it smooths out.

During the shimmy, I tried a quick stop & it shimmies from side to side like having a "bent wheel" effect untill a full stop.

If I stop & go in reverse for a quick moment & resume on my way, the problem is cleared & gone for street driving until of course, I drive at freeway speeds again.

So far Ive suspected the Trans, the steering or maybe the right axle which, has a broken boot at the wheel side.....btw, its a 1990 Voyager LE with LOTS of miles...it does need front end bushings as per a visit to the alingnment shop...

Thanx in advance for any clues you may have..

Dave.

nmhucowboy · August 2005

Hi Dave, One thing you might check on: Minivans with front wheel drive put a lot of torque on the engine mounts when you accellerate or stop. If the engine mounts are old or are broken, the steering will frequently pull to the right or left. Your description leads me to believe that reversing or stop and go changes just reposition the engine on the shock mounts. These mounts are critical to good steering performance and allignment on these minivans. For a car that is 16 years old, I would recommend changing the engine shock mounts. You will be amazed at the difference it will make. How do I know? I have a 97 Dodge Gran Caravan and the mounts lasted about 3-4 years before I had to replace them. Good luck. -NMHUCOWBOY

mhaldr · August 2005

The other day, the car jolted into first, and after that, would not get past second gear. I can put the car in reverse as well. The odometer shows a steady 0 mph, and will not change. The transmission fluid was recently changed. Is it worth a shot to try and change out the speed sensor or check the cabling? Where exactly is the sensor located? I also have the Chiltons's chrysler book as reference.

harrylhs99 · August 2005

I 'm having the same exact problem ,(lhs 99) but did not take any action yet .
pls let me know if u make any progress .
thanks !

pandeyrs · August 2005

Since I was getting Service Engine Soon" light and since the transmission in 'D" position was not shifting to higher gears (higher RPM on 40-50mph) I scanned the OBD computer using Creader and it gave me codes 0760 and 0700 in that order. 760 is listed in as Shift solenoid C malfunction and 700 says transmission control system malfunction. I have no knowledge on these. Was wondering if anybody knows as to what it might mean in terms of fixing this problem? I am sure it will cost money, but is it a major transmission job. I am worried about that to take it to the dealer. I have owned this vehicle form the beginning with regular maintenance and average family driving in city/hwy conditions.

Thanks in advance.

Rakesh

dspring · August 2005

The engine light came on recently. Was checked by the dealer. The dealer wants to put in a new transmission. No explanation was given as to why? The van runs and seems to shift normally under local and highway conditions. Took the van to a local guy who tried to diagnose the problem. He changed 2 parts on the transmission without change in condition. The engine light comes on. He sent the van to a transmission shop for diagnosis without conclusion other than to rebuild the transmission for $1500.00. The dealer wants to put in a new transmission for $2550.00 with a 36,000 mi. warrantee. The local guy recommends putting in a rebuilt transmission from Jasper for $2500.00 with a 75,000 mi. warrantee. Is something being missed? Should the transmission be replaced? Thanks.

mtengineer · August 2005

My 97 Grand Voyager starts and runs fine when I first start it in the morning. If I drive more then 15 miles or start and stop the engine several times, I start to have problems. Sometimes the engine will just die at a stop light. Sometimes when I restart it the check engine light comes on. Sometimes when take off from a stop the RPM's drop then it will lurch. Now all the buttons on the steering wheel quit working and the airbag and ABS lights came on. I'm sure all these problems are related (I hope). I read somewhere that it may be the computer and one mechanic said it was the fuel filter. Since the engine problems only start when the car has been ran for some time I'm thinking its temperature related. I dont think its the transmission because when it studders or stalls the RPS's drop no matter what I do to the gas pedal. The Van has 97,000 miles with no problems till now. Any ideas?
Thanks :confuse:

novice_i_am · August 2005

I have a 1992 Plymouth Voyager, 3.0L engine, 3-speed transmission, 138K miles. The transmission was rebuilt yesterday and today ($1485) after it burned up last week. (It had been behaving badly for a couple of weeks. My usual mechanic drained fluid, found metal bits in the pan, and flushed the transmission. Said we would try the cheap fix first, but that the transmission probably needed to be replaced. It appears he was right. He went on vacation and the transmission failed the next day. Another mechanic that I use less often recommended the rebuilder.) Based on invoice, rebuilder replaced torque converter, front planetary gear, and used a rebuild kit (looks like "32007 AF OH Kit" on the invoice, which is hand-written). Invoice indicates that fluid was 10 quarts of Mercon III ATF.

Intermittently, the transmission does not downshift to first gear when coming to a stop, but downshifts only to second. On moving from the stop, it will sometimes rapidly downshift to first with a bit of a jerk. (Failing to downshift all the way was a problem for a few days before the rebuild. The transmission died very suddenly.) Is this a problem that can be expected to work itself out, does it indicate a problem with the rebuild, or is it related to some part that would not ordinarily be replaced in a rebuild?

There is a lot of talk about the evils of Mercon/Dexron in a Chrysler transmission on this board. Owner's manual says Dexron III can be used if ATF+3 is not available. I did not ask the rebuilder why Mercon III was used. Does this cause a problem?

Thanks in advance for whatever suggestions you have.

docsbd · August 2005

Please tell us what happened with chrysler as our 03 town and country transmission just died this weekend and ruined our family vacation. We are also out for a hotel where we got stuck and rental of another van to return us home. Thanks, Docsbd@rochester.rr.com

jsweeney · September 2005

Have a '95 Caravan with 116k that has just been a peach for us. Absolutely no problems until now. Got a check engine light and my mechanic advises either the torque converter or the torque converter solenoid is getting ready to give it up. Car is running smoothly, with no shifting problems, no overheating, no drop in gas mileage. Any thoughts?

dustyk · September 2005

No, the transmission should not be replaced until someone can give you a detailed description as to why the transmission is causing the Engine Lamp to illuminate.

It seems that everybody you've mentioned seems to think the same thing, so there's something going on. If that's truly the cause, my first suspicion is that you're not getting torque converter lock up in fourth gear, but it would be nice to know if the Transmission Control Module is laying down a code.

Regards,
Dusty

dustyk · September 2005

See my reply in post number #905.

jeepersx5 · September 2005

Our 1994 Plymouth Voyager's trans. pan is dropped and I am ready to go to the
dealership tomorrow to get a new filter. How does it remove? I cannot find any
screws or fasteners on it, and it is "loose" or wobbles if pulled down some. I have
never changed one myself, but want to this time as I had to remove the trans.
cover to repair or replace it due to a small hole in it from dragging on our gravel
road. I thought I would change it while I was there. It is a 3.0L engine with the overdrive transmission. I am afraid to tear it up, so please help me- where are the screws?

hansienna · September 2005

And for providing accurate, reliable information on other questions concerning DC minivans.

exploder750 · September 2005

Recently did a pan drop with filter change on our '95. The filter has no screws, it just pulls off. No fear of wrecking anything. Very important point-- Use Chysler brand fluid only, purchased from your local dealer. ATF+3 is the one to best use for your year. Do not use any of the 'compatibles' available at auto stores. I've learned from this and other forums that the 'compatible' fluids more than likely will cause you un-needed problems.

fish8 · September 2005

I looked at my power steering level in our '05 T&C Touring and decided to top off. I read the owners manual and realized Chrysler recommends Automatic Transmission Fluid (ATF+4) in the power steering resivoir. I went to pick some ATF+4 at my local car parts and they only had ATF+3. I asked the Associate and he said ATF+3 would work fine for the power steering. I would NEVER use ATF+3 in the transmission, but what are your thoughts about using it for power steering fluid? Is there that much of a difference between ATF+3 and ATF+4?

denise10 · September 2005

Did you have any luck getting this fixed? I have a 97 Grand Caravan w/ 160K miles and have replaced the body control module twice w/ a used part (in 8/02 and 8/03). It quit on me today without warning. I'm hoping my van will keep running for 1 more year but hate to replace the BCM a third time and don't want to pay for a new part fom the dealer.

wicker1 · September 2005

Where would I find the relay location on the van?

sweeptee · September 2005

I've read as much as I can find on this. There seems to be no clear answer to what to do when the BCM (Body Control Module) takes a powder.

1996 Dodge GC, 120K. recently the running lights stay on after shutting down the vehicle. Battery disconnect has been only successful way to get them off. Looked at wiring and made sure the relay was OK. Replaced the headlight switch to no benefit. Non-dealer mechanic told me it was the BCM. I've read with trepidation about putting a "used" BCM into my van.

The idea of spending $800 on a new computer that may, or may not, solve the problem is distastefull at best.

Your experiences much appreciated.
Troy

akam · September 2005

I've had it lock up on me once while driving but after pulling over and turning the van off and restarting it I haven't had any more problems. Well, it skips every now and then. Does anyone know a good place in Atlanta to get the transmission checked. I had an independent store check it and he said there was no problem with it. Then I had the dealer check it and he said it was shot. He wanted me to trade it in for a new van. I refused to accept his answer and he said he could reset it for me to drive it home. It's still running but I'd like to get another opinion.
Thanks
AKAM

mckernaniii · September 2005

Have 21,000 miles. Just got the vehicle. Seems to "thump" lightly going in and out of low gear and once in a while shifting at a higher speed. What is this? Unusual?

mckernaniii · September 2005

Have 21,000 miles. Just got the vehicle. Seems to "thump" lightly going in and out of low gear and once in a while shifting at a higher speed. What is this? Unusual?

bordrbird · September 2005

Check engine light came on when I started up the van. After consulting with Chrysler service, I took it for a test drive. Drove like it was stuck in second gear. Dealer performed the following test" Check engine lamp on, transmission in limp mode. Scan system and check for codes. Stored code P0888 - relay always off. Performed diagnostics on EATX relay circuit. Control circuit OK. Found open in relay. Replaced bad EATX relay. Cleared PCM and TCM codes. Test drove vehicle, checks OK." That was last week. Has driven fine since. Put 300 mi. on. Started this morning and check engine light comes on again. Called dealer again and was told it could be many things causing light to come on. Shifts OK, not like the first time when stuck in second gear. Van has 14,500 mi., checked all fluids, next oil change November. I need to go on another 300 mi. trip. Not able to get to the dealer before trip. Should I be OK? (light is not flashing)

97xpresso · September 2005

Can you retrieve the code via "key dance" method on a 2005? I would not be comfortable driving 300 miles not knowing why CEL is on. There are reasons that I would have no problem with, but if you can't retrieve the P XXXX code....

bordrbird · September 2005

Is that the on-off-on-off-on under 5 secs.? Have not tried that. Not sure if it is possible.

ajensen · September 2005

96Dodge GCaravan SE 3.3L engine, 120k miles. Trans. leaks a little fluid, I keep it full (by the way, what exact fluid should I use? ATF+3??). Had some quirks a couple months ago - you shift from reverse to drive and nothing would happen for a second. Has been fine since then. Now the "service engine" light is on - gives code 731 - "gear 1 wrong ratio". Reset it, it came back on. No problem when driving, shifts fine, seems OK. I'm afraid of getting ripped off when I take it into a transmission place. There is an AAMCO, a Cottman, and another repair shop that is not "transmission only" that I am considering taking it to.
What are likely causes of this, and estimated $$ to fix??

badgerfan · September 2005

I cannot tell you the likely cause, but I would stay far away from AAMCO and Cottman. AAMCO has never had a good reputation, and I have personal experience with Cottman, who introduced more leaks than I started with on our 96 Caravan 3.3 four speed by not tightening properly and overtightening and stripping some hose clamps on the transmission oil cooler hoses when they replaced the supposedly leaking solenoid valve body gasket. I remedied the hose clamp problem myself, and it leaks not a drop anymore.

I would go to either a locally owned independent transmission shop which has been in business a long time, or secondly a dealer shop.

Don't assume right away that the first shop that tells you your transmission is shot is telling the truth, sometimes it is just solenoid problems that don't warrant a complete transmission change. If in doubt, get a second or third opinion, this could cost you a bit, but save you a bundle if it allows you to not have to replace the tranny.

ATF 3 should be OK with your 1996.

Claires · September 2005

ajensen, you might want to ask about the potential cost in the Maintenance & Repair Costs discussion.

xanthe · September 2005

I am having a weird problem with my 92 Plymouth Voyager. It seems to come out of gear and go into neutral when I am driving so the rpm's go way up and the car is not responsive to the gas pedal being pushed down. I can physically put it into neutral, turn the car off while coasting, and restart it, and that used to fix it temporarily. Now sometimes it will go out of gear immediately and I have to keep repeating this process to try to get it to "catch". Sometimes when I am stopped it will shudder and jump out of gear and I will have to shut off the engine and re-start it. I may have to do this more than once. Today I drove around 50 miles and it must have happened 30-40 times, which is very bad on the freeway and makes it difficult to get up to speed. It also seems to happen when I am going uphill more, but it has also happened downhill and on straightaways. It happens more often at higher speeds, over 40 mph, but it has happened at lower speeds and at a full stop (when it shudders). One person thinks it is something with the computer in the car,and another thinks it is the transmission. I am wondering if anyone else has had similar problems, and if so, what was it.. Or if anyone has any other ideas I would greatly appreciate any ideas or input.. Thank you!
:confuse:

seattlekev · September 2005

I'm assuming you are talking about lesser "generic" compatible" fluids. I'm getting ready to do a filter change and plan on putting Amzoil syn fluid in my 97 Voyager. This should be an upgrade and should help my shudder problems. Do you concur? Thanx : >)

dustyk · September 2005

The mere fact that a transmission fluid is synthetic does not mean it is fully compatible. Only ATF+3, or its replacement, ATF+4, are fully compatible. A change of fluid type to synthetic by itself only addresses fluid flow and operating temperature range characteristics. Chrysler ATF contains a patented friction modifier that is not replicated by aftermarket synthetic ATFs. Chrysler specifically warns that any fluid other than ATF+3 or ATF+4 will alter the shift quality and can cause clutch or torque converter shudder. A ATF that does not contain a friction modifier will accelerate transmission wear and hasten repair or failure. Shudder over a period of time will manifest itself as premature clutch or torque converter vane wear and contaminate the fluid.

Best regards,
Dusty

exploder750 · September 2005

seattlekev, I yield this one to dustyk. He is by far most knowledgeble about these transmissions and the fluid types. Based on his response, I'd be inclined to stick with the Chrysler brand fluid.

exploder750 · September 2005

Does anyone see a benefit in terms of longer transmission life by installing a deeper transmission pan? Is one available for the DCX minivan transmission?

grc2 · October 2005

My "service engine soon" light started coming on intermittently within the last 1000 miles. My repair shop indicated it is a transmission signal (perhaps a solenoid) and that I should be able to drive for a while without a problem. (The repair shop is trustworthy and doesn't make unnecessary repairs) I need to take a 1500 mile trip at the end of this week and am wondering if the transmission will last. I have a 97 dodge caravan 3.3ltr engine with about 120,000 miles

Current symptoms: I have occasional minor lags in shifting when going from deceleration to acceleration (e.g. slowing for a red light that then turns green). The light only comes on after driving on the interstate for about 15 or 20 minutes. It will go out after a couple of days of city driving.

What other symptoms can I expect before failure and what can I expect after a solenoid fails? Should I use the van for my trip. The alternative is renting or flying, which I'd rather not do.

renee5 · October 2005

I have a 96 grand caravan es and my service engine soon light came on too. I was told at the local garage that it would be ok. The transmission went out before the weekend was up. We broke down inside a tunnel at night . It was a horrible experience. My transmission has gone out now 4X. I currently have 127,000. It first went out at approx. 98,000. Every 15,000 miles it seems to goes out. I only have 1,000 miles left on my warranty. My advise to you is if you can get rid of it. I can't right now, but as soon as i can i am. They are not reliable vehicles. :sick:

renee5 · October 2005

I have a 96 Dodge Grand Caravan. Mine did the same thing. It has gone out 4X since 2003. I have no warning either. It just goes out. I have 1,000 miles left on my recent transmission. My advise is while you can still get some money out of it, get rid of it and don't by another Chrylser Product. I have been fighting with Chrysler to honor the warranty that I have with them. The dealerships are ok, but the company is difficult to work with. Not a reliable vehicle. :sick:

dustyk · October 2005

I'm not aware of anyone making a deeper pan for the 41TE.

What would accomplish the same thing by adding volume and be more beneficial to long term transmission reliability is to install an auxilary transmission cooler. If you lower the fluid temperature 20 degrees you reduce the ATF oxidation rate by about 45%.

Bests,
Dusty

ukwonder · October 2005

Hi 2 u all,
could anyone help - having had my 98 grand voyager 3.3lx for nearly two years i'm experiencing problems - the gears seem to change for no reason rather than the previous comfortable exchange - they change down for no reason and it seems she cant decide what gear to be in - at low speeds she keeps going up and down the gears for no reason - furthermore when getting upto to higher speeds she wont go into top gear and high revs in the lower gears - can anyone offer any advice / tips prior to me getting an expensive garage bill,

thanks in anticipation of any responses

ukwonder · October 2005

dont know pal - but i have the sma problem with my grand voyager - wont go into high gear n revs high as a result in lower gear - jerky gear changes and she doesnet know what gear to be in

snorkelman · October 2005

My 96 voyager has multiple transmission codes showing up so i am getting rid of it.

I got 132,000 miles out of it before the transmission had any problems.

Since the fuel pump was damaged when recently replaced, it is squirting gas on the engine, so unsafe to drive. I am hoping to get $1500 for it, which will make me happy and probably be a good deal for a mechanic who can do the repairs themself.

shipo · October 2005

Squirting gas on the engine? IIRC, that's a very old recall issue that should have long since been taken care of. If not, your dealership should provide the fix for free.

Best Regards,
Shipo

Chrysler Minivan Transmission Problems

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