Chrysler Minivan Transmission Problems

kennydoe · October 2005

i have exactly the same problem...right down to replacing the headlight switch. what did you end up doing?

i'm trying to sell mine, but i need to fix it somehow first.

Kenny

alexandra1973 · October 2005

I've had a 1997 Grand Caravan for 3 years now and it's been relatively problem-free.

But lately I think I'm having transmission issues. There are times when I push the accelerator and it acts like it's in neutral instead of drive--the engine revs, but no acceleration, nothing. The other day I had to pull into a parking lot, put it into Park, then back into Drive. It doesn't happen all that often, though it seems to be happening more frequently.

Is it the transmission? If so, what could be wrong--and most importantly, how much would it cost to get it fixed?

alexandra1973 · October 2005

I'm having similar problems with my 97 Grand Caravan, though it only recently started. I have to put it into Park, then back into Drive. I'm going to use my husband's car until we can figure out what to do.

My engine light doesn't even come on either.

dustyk · October 2005

Your symptom could be caused by low or high transmission fluid. With the engine fully warmed (full operating temperature) and the vehicle on a level surface, check the fluid level on the transmission dip stick. It should be in the "hot" range and not above the full mark.

You don't state how many miles is on your vehicle, but the transmission filter should be changed every 25,000 miles to ensure good transmission life. Always use Chrysler ATF+3 or ATF+4 in that transmission. Do not substitute another type, especially Dexron-Mercon.

Regards,
Dusty

sabastian1314 · October 2005

Dusty,
two things 1)If there is too much transmission fluid, how can it be emptied mine is well above the third hole in the stick when hot indicating too much fluid and my wife just had the fluid changed and now my 97 isn't shifting. 2) How do you change the filter. Is this something that can be done by a novice or should either be left to a professional. I've done quite a bit of engine work but I've never touched a tranmission other to remount one.

Thanks,
Sabastian

snorkelman · October 2005

Okay I'm a novice, but I realize that the transmission is a very important part of the vehicle.

So, I am asking all of you transmission experts to give me any tips so that my 2005 Chrysler Town & Country can go for many years without having transmissions problems.

So far the only real tip that I saw was Dusty's a few posts up which said:

"the transmission filter should be changed every 25,000 miles to ensure good transmission life. Always use Chrysler ATF+3 or ATF+4 in that transmission. Do not substitute another type, especially Dexron-Mercon."

That is the type of tip I like.

By the way, can I change the transmission filter myself or should I bring it in for that?

The only type of work that i do on my vehicles is replace the air filter and change the oil and oil filter.

alexandra1973 · October 2005

I have less than 120K miles on it.

I noticed that it tends to happen more often on a cold engine. In fact, today, when I went to take my son somewhere, before leaving the house I had to put it in park and start it no less than three times to get it going...and just recently the nights here have been much cooler.

On a warm engine I don't seem to have any problems. Someone suggested to me that it could be the linkage.

Fortunately my husband and I make it a point to get a repair manual for whatever vehicle we acquire, so I'm going to look up the section and see if a novice such as I can change the transmission filter...if that's what it needs.

I'll go out there a little later and check the levels. Thanks for the advice.

blindman · October 2005

I just went on the first installation for my company today with a 97 Chr T & C 3.8 w/ AWD I just purchased 1 1/2 weeks ago. I absolutely love the van for every feature that it has and all the room it has over the Ford Escort that I have progressed up from. We took freeway for approx 160 mi to our destination with about 2 stops over 1/2 hour each. No problems beautiful traveler. On our way back it was on 2 lane road averaging 55-60 mph. On a slight upgrade and I mean slight, while on cruise, the vehicle jerked which only shook the chassis not us as passengers.
The van passed 110,000 miles on this trip. I changed the oil in the engine just before the trip using Castrol High milage 10-30 and a treatment of Prolong as an expirienced user of this product. I did not change the tranny fluid not being the wiser and the lack of time. The vehicle sat for this past summer as the previous owner purchased a Durango and waited a while to decide to sell.
Description. I would explain what occured as the computer/vacuum system hit a finite "sour" spot (as opposed to sweet) in which the tranny received a command to downshift one or two gears at which immediately received the command to resume. This resulted in what I would call a torque spike that "jerked" the eng/tranny assembly in it's mounts and resonated through the chassis.
The other option is that it could be that the clutch plates slipped and then gripped again. I would rule this out as the jerk that was experienced would be likened to shifting to neutral, revving the engine, and shifting into drive at the same time you let off the gas and the rpms are JUST leaving redline on the way back down after letting off the gas.
This occurred with the cruise on and without. But consistently on a slight incline, between 55-60 mph either 3 or 4 times within 125 miles traveled.
I'm just an amateur and have worked on all the vehicles I've owned and should own a nicer one than I drive (the T & C is strictly a work car) with all the money I have saved doing my own work. I have removed, rebuilt and replaced the tranny's in my 92 Mazda MPV and 89 Nissan P/U which until I got into it are the same base transmission with different assemblies for mating to different engines and transfer cases (both are 4WD). So dive right into any detailed info freely, use laman's terms and anything that I don't follow I will reply on. I just want to know if this has occured to anyone else and what was found of the situation. Is this something that can be fixed with a module gasket and a module remove-clean-replace and new tranny fluid or should I prepare my bank account. Welcoming any and all comments. Thank you.

mikee4 · October 2005

Make sure that when the transmission fluid was change, the replacement fluid is OEM Chrysler transmission fluid. Dextron with additive was put in my van by Midas, when they strong armed me into letting them flush the transmission fluid, and the transmission failed about 3000 miles later. Subsequently, I learned through internet research that you CANNOT put any other fluid into your transmission. Cost me $2300 at the dealer for a rebuilt transmission. I recommend changing transmission fluid immediately if they used dextron. Maybe you can save the transmission. Good luck.

thudpucker · October 2005

Alex, I just called a rebuilder with a similar problem.
He told me there are two sensors, one on the front and one on the back of the transmission.
One.
They can cause the Torque converter to lock up solid. When you pull the lever into gear, the engine dies.
Two.
When you approach a stop sign the transmission wont shift down. It kills the engine before you can shift it down.
Three.
When you are heading up a slight slope at freeway speeds, on cruise control, and the Torque converter should unlock so the engine can maintain the speed, the engine just slows down and the car slows down as well while the transmission stays locked in high gear.

He says those conditions sound like the front sensor, but could be either one.
HOWEVER.....if it's not those sensors, it's inside the transmission. Some Neoprene double flapper type valves.
Not something for the ordinary brain surgeon to be hacking away at.

alexandra1973 · October 2005

I just added transmission fluid and so far so good--even running on a cold engine. If anything my van appears to be running better. I added the fluid a couple of days ago and so far the problem hasn't come back.

I'm hoping that's all it was! I still have fluid to spare, too--I didn't use the whole quart.

I'm going to be checking it weekly to make sure there isn't a leak or anything.

bt1159804 · October 2005

I had the exact same symptoms including the check engine light @ 125,000 miles. I was also told it could last a long time. One day, my car started making a loud whining/grinding sound. I pulled over and had it towed. Within 5 miles of the first sound, my transimssion blew entirely!!

Beware

tamstertime · October 2005

We purchased our '05 Grand Caravan in January & by April were faced with over $6,000 in damages when the van lunged into a concrete column. While helping a friend locate their vehicle in a parking garage, I pulled into the corner (on the rooftop yet!) for a three-point turn. While still in drive, with foot on brake, I turned my head to be sure traffic was clear. As I began to turn forward with arm raised to shift into reverse, the van surged or lunged forward into the concrete column but (thankfully) bounced me back from the roof's edge. I managed to drive home, but the dealership came out in record time to tow the vehicle in. My husband didn't even have the opportunity to see the van as it was towed within an hour & torn apart shortly thereafter. Of course we've been told that no troubles or engine problems registered on the computer. I haven't driven the van since. Anyone out there hear of or have similar experience with an '05??

cb2manor · October 2005

I have a 1997 Dodge Caravan Sport with almost 170,000 miles on it...it has been a great van for us and recently the transmission has been acting up. I am grateful the transmission has lasted thus far! My mechanic says they don't usually hold up this long...but what I'm wanting to know is when I'm accelerating (has happened at varied speeds), my van starts to "shutter", but if I lift off accelerator it stops, I coast momentarily, accelerate again, sometimes "shutters", sometimes doesn't...and I can keep going...also it does seem to mostly do this while going up an incline of any degree...but, has also done it on level surfaces...any idea what is causing this?

fljoslin · October 2005

I had a 92 Grand Caravan that went 170k with the original trans working fine. I then donated it to charity. I used synthetic Dextron III in it from about 100k on, changing it about once per year.
I also had issues of a shudder on acceleration. On one occasion this was due to a bad CV joint. On another occasion, which behaved exactly the same way, it was caused by a bad spark plug wire. It ran fine, but mis-fired under acceleration. Also, the condition of the engine mounts seem to affect shudder..

indysabre · November 2005

My wife took our 02 grand caravan in today for routine service and they told here the tranny fluid looked dark and it needed to be flushed and replaced.

They used Wynn's flush service. The total was 160 plus tax. Doesn't this seem high?

Also why should it have needed it? We have 42000 miles and the van is 3.5 years old. the only reference in the manual is to do it at 48000 miles if you tow trailers which we don't.

shipo · November 2005

Hmmm, $160? Yikes, I had the transmission fluid and filter on our 1998 done just yesterday at a dealership no less for $110.60 ($54.00 Labor, $22.00 Trans Kit and 4 quarts of Automatic Transmission fluid @ 8.65).

Regarding your early service (Part 1)... IF the transmission fluid did indeed look dark and burnt, then yup, it should have been changed. The thing is that at only 42,000 miles with no obvious heavy duty service, I'd be highly suspicious of whoever told me that. Said another way, I'd want to see the fluid side by side with some new fluid.

Regarding your early service (Part 2)... I just checked the service guide for both our 1998 3.8 GC and our 2003 3.8 GC and noticed a marked difference in what services are called out for the transmissions. For the 1998, a complete flush and filter replacement is recommended every 30,000 miles (for Schedule "A", 15K for Schedule "B"). For the 2003 (which most likely has the same service schedule as your 2002), there are no such transmission flush recommendations.

Best Regards,
Shipo

97xpresso · November 2005

Why did you have this "flush" done? What type of fluid was used for the flush? What type of fluid is in your transmission now? I am willing to bet that it's not ATF+4 which is the ONLY fluid that should be used. Your money would have been better spent for a pan drop, filter change and re-fill at the Dodge dealer. As you stated, this is not even necessary with normal usage, but I will have the service done at the dealer at 50 k miles for peace of mind.

97xpresso · November 2005

Older DCX vehicles, transmission service was required every 30, 000 miles. No where does it ever state that the transmission should be flushed. Newer DCX transmissions (ATF+4 factory fill) say no service required for normal usage, but to service at 48,000 miles under severe usage. Again, no where stated that a flush be done, just a pan drop, filter change and re-fill, like you had done for $110.60

shipo · November 2005

"Again, no where stated that a flush be done, just a pan drop, filter change and re-fill, like you had done for $110.60"

Hmmm, interesting. Acknowledged that the manual doesn't state that a "Flush" should be done every 30K, however, I did ask them to perform a "Flush" and on my reciept it says, "1 -- PKBGT -- BG Trans Flush -- $22.00". That said, now you've got me wondering, I suppose the indicator is how much trans fluid they used for the refill. Under the assumption that a complete flush (ie. draining the torque converter) would use more fluid than just a pan drop and filter swap, do you have any idea how much fluid should be used for either operation?

Best Regards,
Shipo

indysabre · November 2005

The local dodge dealer did the work. They talked my wife into it, they said that when they checked the fluid it was browsish.

At this dealer, who I usually trust and like, they recommend the Wynns flush system. Apparently they drain, put in new fluid with the wynns solvent and flush it to get all of the old fluid and residue out. They then flush again with ATF+4 to displace everything with clean ATF+4. On the bill it showed 12 qts of ATF+4 used, a labor fee and 34 bucks for the wynns solvent / cleaner.

I'll admit that in theory it sounds good but I just thought the 160 was a lot and I wasn't thrilled that they talked my wife into doing it with out me hearing about it first (she had forgot her cell phone). I would have really questioned the need at 42000 miles and the total cost.

97xpresso · November 2005

Post 958 says 12 quarts which sounds about right. A pan drop takes between 4-5 quarts. The dealer has ATF+4 in bulk drums, so they probably used a little more than the 4 quarts listed on the bill. Most dealers charge about what you paid for this routine service, sometimes they have $75 coupon specials.

97xpresso · November 2005

I am so relieved the work was done at an DCX dealer. When I saw "Wynn's Flush System", I assummed a quick lube place. $160 is not out of line if performed by a dealer with 12 qts of ATF+4. Even though the manual states no service (ever) required under normal usage, I will get my transmission serviced (not flushed) at 48,000 for peace of mind. Reading posts on this and other forums, some people go as far as changing the fluid (4-5 qts.)every other oil change! I guess it's cheap insurance if you do the work yourself and have the older (A604) DCX transmission

fish8 · November 2005

Just think of it as good insurance on your transmission. Can't hurt the car at all to get this service doen on a regular basis. It will just hurt your wallet!!

masterpaul1 · November 2005

We get our 01 DGC EX maintenance done at the dealer. We were told that we should have the trans. filter and fluid changes every 30K or two years. The cost is around $130. They charge $149 for a complete trans. flush. Since we had a complete trans. flush at around 54K, the next time around, we will have the fluid and filter changed. (We now have over 66K).

angelo567 · November 2005

Hi, I have a 98 voyager with a similar problem, where the engine stalls/cuts out after 40 minutes of driving. I also agree that it is a heat related problem. Our vehicle dash lights up, but specifically the alarm set light comes up and beeps constantly. Also you can't get the engine to turn over as the ignition seems to be dead when attempting to start the engine by turning the ignition key.

This behaviour started occurring after we had to jump start the vehicle that had a flat battery. We took our vehicle back to the dealer, where they replaced the computer module and got the vehicle running again. However, this took 3 plus weeks and nice big bill. After all this the problem started again after 6 months.

I wonder if you have had any information provided by your chrysler dealer.

Another thought we had was to go to a specialist auto electrician, to see if he can work out the problem.

Looking forward to your experiences.

Angelo

annlukas · November 2005

I own a 1996 Chrysler Town and Country that has 130,000 miles on it. About a year ago we had the transmission replaced. Well it was acting up so we tookk it to a dealer locally as my husband is in the military and we are in a different state for the next couple months. We were told that it needed a new solenoid pack and the transmission needed to be replaced. We it turned out that the transmission was still under warranty thru Aamco where i had gotten it done the first time. Well anyway, Is the soleniod pack part of the transmission or is it separate? Is this something they will replace when they fix the transmission or will this be separate? I am not getting much info from aamco as they had to tow it about an hour away from where we are and i was told they would call me when they did the diagnostic test on it after they picked it up. I guess they aren't in much of a hurry since they wont be getting paid as it is under warranty. Should I expect them to change that pack that the dealer said was no good? Or will i need to pay for that? Thanks for any input I can get.
Annie

mcleary1 · November 2005

We have had the same problem. We purchased our '05 Grand Caravan in March. Over the past week when we stop at a red light and even in park the car wants to lunge forward. When we took it to the dealership the first time they said it was running on 5 cylinders and replaced the plugs. It continued happening and we took it back. The mechanic drove the car with me for about 20 minutes and it did not happen. They told us to monitor the situation and bring it back if needed. Have you found any information out as to what the problem is???
Can anyone help with what is causing the car to want to lunge forward while you are stepping on the brake? I would like to get this fixed because we have three small children riding in the car.

craigo3 · November 2005

I hve a 93 Plymoth Grand Voyager SE with a 4 year old transmission. We definately had some problems with low fluid levels and found out the proper filling methods etc. when we took it back to the shop that installed the rebuilt trany. The mechanic told us to use Merchon/Dextron III only. Have I been had? Last night my transmission stopped moving my car and we got a tow.
Thanks man.......

tamstertime · November 2005

On our '05 lunge problem, our dealer insists they have thoroughly gone over the vehicle but can't find anything wrong. They specifically stated they wouldn't be able to find anything that wasn't captured as a trouble. Our check engine light doesn't come on. It lunged again on my husband shortly after all the repairs from my accident, but the dealer told him not to bother to bring it up unless the check engine light had come on. Not only do I not drive this vehicle that was purchased for my use, but I'm also a nervous wreck as a passenger in it! It really stinks because I love everything else about the van. I have a child as well and am frightened for her to ride in the vehicle. Be careful and good luck on your end! :confuse:

royallen · November 2005

There is a long history of vehicles of various makes being subject to sudden acceleration. First I would be making a report to NHTSA.gov, then I would be working up the chain of command at Chrysler since you need to talk to someone concerned about fleet safety. The dealer response of tamstertime is particularly inadequate. The idea they can not address a problem not showing as a check engine light is retarded. Most items monitored by the computer contribute to emission control. Many problems drivers care about will never be found by the computer, such as a failed water pump or a broken belt or a flat tire.
Try a google search on "unintended acceleration" and see what ideas/information you find. Roy

tamstertime · November 2005

Thanks for your response Roy. Interestingly enough, my husband told me today he had an instance where the van wouldn't respond when shifted into drive, but idled as if in neutral. He had to shift back to park and drive again before being able to proceed. This morning, while in drive, the van shook and ran very rough. Obviously, we do have transmission issues and guess what - that check engine light didn't come on this time either! So much for investing in a reliable new vehicle! I'm going to look into some of your follow-up suggestions. Thanks - Tammy

philski3 · November 2005

I recently had my 97 plymouth grand voyager v6 3.3L transmission rebuilt and the guy put in dexron. From what I have read here it is a death sentence for my new tranny. The guy gave me the run around and said the dexron was fine and wouldnt put in the atf3 that is recommended. I am planning on doing it myself but have never done it on this van. On my volvo 240 you just pull off the return transmission line, attach a rubber hose and flush out the fluid 2 quarts at a time and then add the same amount of new fluid until you've run about 12 quarts of fluid through. Does anyone know how to do this with my van and could you explain the procedure. Any help would be greatly appreciated. By the way I am really tired of inept and irresposible mechanics who cut corners and just dont do the right thing. It's maddening. Thanks Phil

bluesport · November 2005

I own a '97 Sport Caravan, short wheelbase. I bought it new, had the dealer change the trans fluid and filter at recommended intervals. Currently have 142K miles with no problems. I hear few success stories out there about these transmissions. I called a local trans repair shop and they said these transmissions should go 180K with proper care. Hope I haven't jinxed myself by writing this.

bluesport · November 2005

I also have a '97 Sport (short) which has 140K on the original trans. No problems yet, except a shutter in 4th gear at lower speeds, around 30-45. Other than that,it's been a great car. I'm thinking about taking it on a 2K mile round trip next month. Good idea?

royallen · November 2005

My '95 has a filler tube that allows insertion of a 5/16 inside diameter, 7/16 OD plastic tube. With about a 5.5' length it will reach from the bottom of the tranny pan to a dish pan on the ground. If the dipstick shows full it will siphon a little over 3.5 qt. Roy

royallen · November 2005

Not going into gear sounds like low transmission fluid. Running rough has many possibilities, though most are not common in the first year. If your dealer is not successful this time I wonder if you have an alternate dealer to try. Also you might want to look for a source for TSBs (Technical Service Bulletins) which manufacturers publish to help dealers identify and fix common owner issues. Try a google search for "Alldata" or "Technical Service Bulletins". Roy

shipo · November 2005

Last week I was forced to buy some very cheap fuel ($1.93 vs. a more typical $2.03-$2.09 around here) for our 1998 GC 3.8 from a Brand X gas station. Why "forced"? Well, the "Distance To Empty" display had long since hit zero and this was the only fueling station in sight. :-/

Over the last 5 months and nearly 14,000 miles I've filled almost exclusively at ExxonMobil (which around here is more than half of all of the stations) with a few stray tanks of either Shell or Sunoco, and through all of those miles it has been the rare tank indeed that didn't hit between 21.5 and 22.5 mpg. Anyway, after this fill (and associated reset of the trip computer) I noticed that my "Avg MPG" display was hovering in the high 17s and low 18s and that my transmission was very rough when it upshifted. Initially I didn't associate the poor mileage to the cheap gas, and it wasn't until last night that I started wondering if the transmission issue was somehow related as well.

Under typical circumstances (i.e. name brand fuel in the tank), my van would normally execute silky smooth upshifts during my daily commute on some rather hilly roads. Last night however, when I would approach those same hills at my normal speed of about 45, it felt as if I had to give the van more pedal to maintain speed up the incline, and when the upshift came, it was very abrupt and harsh, so harsh I found myself worrying about the health of my tranny (which is nearing 102K miles I might add).

Thinking about it logically, if the transmission computer is monitoring the throttle position as one of its indicators that an upshift is necessary, then I would assume that with this cheap fuel the throttle position where the change-up would be called for would occur effectively at a lower level of power output (but at a similar throttle setting) than when compared to the normal fuel that I run. If the transmission is expecting to effect said gear change while dealing with a certain amount of torque, and said torque is well south of the mark, then the lock-up after the gear change should indeed feel harsh.

Hmmm, thinking about what I just wrote, it would seem rather counter intuitive that a lower power (than what the designers expected) gear change would be at all damaging to the transmission. That being said, the harshness was significant and couldn't possibly mean anything good for the continued health of my tranny.

The good news is that last night as I neared zero once again on the DTE display (and only a total of 18.5 on the Avg MPG display), I found myself right by a Shell station. Wouldn't you know it, I'm now 100 miles into this new tank and my Avg MPG display is sitting on 22.4 and the transmission is once again shifting smooth as silk.

With all of that in mind the following questions are clamoring for an answer:
1) Is there a correlation between cheap fuel and a high incidence of transmission failures?
2) Does all of this even make sense?
3) What can be done/added to Regular gasoline that would cause such a drop in power and mileage? Ethanol?

Anything else that I'm missing?

Best Regards,
Shipo

badgerfan · November 2005

More than likely you just got a one time bad batch of gas that made the engine run poorly, and also made it feel like the transmission was shifting rougher as well.

I really doubt anyone could make a case for poor gas causing transmission failures.

Almost all the gas in our state is 10% ethanol, and I nearly always buy the cheapest I can find (though the brand names seem to match penny for penny with the offbrand/independent stations around here anyways lately), with no noticeably affect on driveability, on our 1996 Caravan.

shipo · November 2005

Other than the rough up shifts, I didn't notice any other drivability issues per-se. That said, the transmission did seem to perform more gear changes on the whole than it is now doing with the Shell that is currently in the tank.

Just curious, since I've never (knowingly) fueled with a fuel blended with Ethanol and as such have no experience with this fuel type, what kind of mileage are you getting and which engine does your van have?

Best Regards,
Shipo

badgerfan · November 2005

The Caravan is my wife's primary vehicle, so I don't drive it a lot and I haven't checked the mileage for a long time, though we do have the data as we record gallons and mileage whenever we fill up. I will do this sometime when I get spare time to check it. It is the 3.3 V-6, of which the engine and transmission are still working fine at 85K miles with no issues. We only changed transmission fluid once at about 75K miles, mostly out of guilt. Maybe we are just lucky, but this "unreliable" transmission has served us well so far, knock on wood.

I believe the 10% ethanol blend has a bit less energy per gallon than other formulations. I can't really buy non-ethanol gas in our area, as the MBTE additive that serves some of the same "oxygenation" function for emission reduction has got a bad name for polluting groundwater, etc. We also get different formulations for winter and summer, and the formulation is different for SE Wisconsin than the rest of the state, and we buy both on a lot of occasions. Too many variables to track mileage vs additive package!

frankabbinett · December 2005

Check engine light on and occasionally the brake indicator light flickers. Dealer scanned OBD2 code P0755. Dealer changed the solenoid pack and transmission still stuck in 2nd after driving about 7km. Dealer put old solenoid pack back on and recommended total transmission rebuild. Engine will occasionally stall when starting forward with transmission stuck in 2nd. Any ideas?

mclaughlin · December 2005

After driving on the interstate about 80 miles, our van suddenly and without warning stopped when we eventually slowed to a stoplight. When it stopped our first thought was that we had been bumped from behind by another car. Realizing that didn't happen, we looked up to see if we had bumped the truck in front of us (didn't). We didn't realize the engine had stalled as the truck engines around us we so loud we couldn't hear that the engine stalled. The van stopped with a 'bump'. It restarted with no problem until we put it in drive, 'bump' stall again. We put it in neutral with the engine running again and were able to push it out of traffic. Actually felt like the transmission fell out onto the ground. It didn't. Luckily the only garage in Greenbrier was directly in front of us. Their mechanic came out after about 10 minutes (while the van was off). The van started right up and when put into drive worked fine. We shrugged it off to a weird thing, and drove it about another mile into the Greenbrier. We were there for a few hours, left and drove the 80 miles on interstate back. Again no problem till we got to the first stoplight at home and it happened again. Obviously a problem when the engine is warm. The next morning we took it to our mechanic (thankful to have gotten home) and he put it on the computer diagnosis and it detected no problem. So they did a complete tuneup and added some transmission additive to try to seal a leak there. We drove it home that evening, no problem. Actually did run a little better. Drove it again around town enough to get the engine warm and it did it again. Took it back, they disconnected a 'useless' sensor. Picked it up, no problem. Drove it yesterday again enough to warm it up and you guessed it... our mechanic put it on a new diagnostic computer and again no problem. He said it could only be the transmission and he doesn't do transmission rebuilds. He did change the fluids, used a 'transmission kit' and filter in the transmission last January. After doing some research to educate ourselves today, we called and asked what additive he used and he said every transmission shop in town uses it, didn't really give us a name of the product. Knowing today that Chrysler transmissions are problem children, we don't want to keep spending money on repairs that don't repair. We're already up to $600. Should we get the transmission fluid and filters replaced with the genuine Mopar stuff just in case 'universal' fluid and filters are the problem or should we take it to a dealership or aamco. The van is a '96 town and country, garage kept with only 86k miles on it. We were hoping to at least get 120k before major problems.

jhart · December 2005

My 96 GC had some tranny problems last year after 120000 miles. I had a mechanic who has a hole in the wall shop rebuild it for me. He is very honest and does good work. The only problem with him is he doesn't have the program to retrain the transmission. His OBD does not have the 'chip' that Chrysler now recommends. He says the new program is $1200 from Chrysler. He is moving his shop so he can't afford it right now. My transmission for some reason will not shift down properly but I just ignore it. It pulls fine. He put the upgrade in it and a new valve body but it is still the same. If you have a small leak the differential gears may be failing and pieces of metal get into a 'weep' hole causing a drip. My tranny did just that after he rebuilt it. Could the differential be locking up on yours? Also my mechanic says the torque converter can cause a stall. Remember to always use Chrysler fluid in your tranny. Also, if you get stuck in snow and rock and spin your wheels it can break the differential and you won't hear it or feel it until the tranny starts leaking. I really like this old van. It gets 25-26 mpg on the highway. Good luck!

jhart · December 2005

My tranny did that once. Yours is stuck in fail safe or drive it home mode. There is a sensor right below the exhaust manifold near the tranny that has probably failed. It is a speed sensor. Cheap and easy to install. Turn your ignition key on and off three times and then on. Watch the engine light flash and count the sequences. It will tell you if you have a code. I check mine monthly on my 96 GC.

azgambler46 · December 2005

I have a 2000 Caravan V6 with 65K on it. Bought it new. It is full of ATF. The color is good as is the smell. I was entering the freeway in normal traffic and normal acceleration. The van suddenly stopped accelerating and slowed to a stop. After checking the usual things I tried to get it to move again. It would move only a few feet fwd and then stop. I tried rev and it moved a little better but not right. In park or neutral it makes no noise. In drive I can hear what sounds like stripped shaft splines. It doesn't make the same kind of noise bad clutches make. Spinning up and then engaging when the servo has enough pressure to lock them up. It is a metal to metal whirring sound. The parking pawl engages and holds fast.
After getting it up in the air, I pinned the sound down to the diff. Here is my question. Can I remove the drive axles with out getting into the diff. As I am doing this on my back I would like to make this as EZ as possible on myself.
Also has anyone had this problem before. And if so what was your fix.
I have some 20 yrs experience as a heavy line mechanic in Ford stores, but very little about FWD's. Thanks in adavance for your help and time, John :sick:

jhart1 · December 2005

Last winter I got stuck in frozen ice/snow and after some creative over revving and tire spinning I got free. Shortly after that I developed a leak. My tranny guy could'nt figure out where it was leaking so he called around and found out I had probably tore up the differential. He had to remove the tranny to get to it although I am not sure if that is necessary. Sure enough the shaft that holds the spider gears was enbedded into the ring gear. The metal shavings got into the drain hole and the differential ran over causing the leak. It never made a sound or any noise that I remember. You can exchange the gear cluster for a rebuilt one. I think it is under $200.

thegraduate · December 2005

This problem sounds familiar to our 1996 Sebring Convertible...All I know is we immediately traded in that one year old car, and the trade-in value got us a Civic...kinda sad to go from a big convertible to a Civic, but the Civic didn't leave us stranded, so it's all about priorities I guess.

96gv_in_bp · December 2005

Wow, does this sound familiar. Started in Aug '05 for us. Randomly dies - sometimes stops while moving slowly, sometimes at traffic lights. Immediate restart - nothing; dead like there is no power (but lights, radio work). Wait 30-60 seconds, starts up like nothing is wrong. Had it into the shop 5x. Many computer checks, tuneups and the like. $1000 later, new computer, all engine sensors replaced, still doing it. We've given up fixing it and simply wait it out when it happens and restart.

Today (12/23), my son called to tell me the engine is racing. Tranny has always been a bit sloppy with sudden lurches and clunks. Sounds like automatic tranny belt is slipping. We'll see - of course it is on Christmas weekend.

Merry Christmas one and all.

freshwater · December 2005

My T&C which I bought certified used from a dealer has 56000 miles and has a 8/80000 miles power train warranty.
Since yesterday i am seeing that the engine light is ON.
Van has no problem in running. Also recently I have observed that while driving on Hwy the gear shift from 'D' to 'N' few times in couple of months. so what should i do now. Is this could be a sign of tranny going bad or may be bad fuel. I hope my warranty should covers it if something happens to my tranny. I went to the dealer and they were giving me an appointment for next week. Someone says I can go to Autozone to get the code free for engine light is that true.

Help please.

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