Chrysler 300M

intrepidspirit · May 2002

and still going strong!

mrl859 · May 2002

I know it's a little off subject, but I'm bored. I believe kosh_2258 is correct. Although it does say "km", that seems to be for the inner ring of numbers, in green. The primary calibration appears to be in mph (outer ring) and therefore the odometer should indicate mileage. Also, if this car is an "american" model, the speedo would read mph (it does) and the odometer would match (ditto). You can see that our cars also have dual calibration with the U.S. calibration (primary) on the outer ring. Or...I could be wrong. Confusing, at best.

lflowers · May 2002

Does anyone remember the TSB # for replacing the antenna to increase the range for the garage door remote? Thanks in advance.

Lynn Flowers
McKinney, Texas

intrepidspirit · May 2002

I agree with mrl859...the predominant speedometer shown is mph, so the odometer would be in the same measurement...

videoman1 · May 2002

With a little patience and a steady hand, this mod can be easily done.

http://www.martin-productions.com/300M/engine-letters.jpg

I may also do the upper and lower lines. Haven't decided yet.

steve276 · May 2002

i have a crack in the dashpad alongside the passenger airbag on my 2000. First trip the dealer said this was not warrantable but after a second visit and inspection by the factory rep they have agreed to fix it under warranty. Overall I have been happy with the vehicle.

fastdriver · May 2002

300michael-

"Put and sign on your M that says steal me, and leave the keys in the car. You will soon be No.1. lol"

Nah-- won't work. I tried that with my 1980 Olds Toronado DIESEL. Had a bumper sticker that said- Answer my prayers, steal this car. No one else wanted it either! ;-))

fastdriver

fastdriver · May 2002

Wonder if this applies to the UPPER echelon too?

http://www.detnews.com/2002/autosinsider/0205/15/b02-489690.htm

fastdriver

sdmike2 · May 2002

I don't know the number, but the TSBs for 99 through 02 are linked off my 300m page at http://www.ritchiefamily.com/300m.htm

Mike

sdmike2 · May 2002

Hey, I said I was a proud M *OWNER*, not buyer.

Mike

sdmike2 · May 2002

I considered painting my valve cover lettering when I was working on my calipers. I think the red would look good on there. However, I decided against it as there is an equal probability of me screwing it up as there is me getting it right.

Maybe one day when I'm bored.

glennbp · May 2002

on the lettering! What did you use, may I ask? I tried with one of those "paint pens" but the flow of paint was too great and it tended to run too much.

beach15 · May 2002

That's actually quite funny, because a few months ago, just to be curious, I was looking around at what used M's go for, mainly 99's. I guess that was a time when Christine II was being nice. I actually did like certain aspects of the car, just not enough to really want one myself. I must admit though, a few times when I had it detailed rather beautifully, and we'd go for a ride with the roof open and the stereo on, there was some "love" bubblin' inside me for it.

Too bad it was so noisy, rattled, and had a few other problems. I wouldn't rule it out 100% as a choice though, the problems with our 2000 scare me a little, a 99' is a little more frightening. Who knows, maybe late this fall, there might be a deal too good to pass up...

In the meantime, I'm more interested in a few other sporty mid-size sedans, probably a few years old. Mainly, something like an Intrigue, GP, Maxima, etc. But, like I said, I need to work a little this summer so I can get anything!

videoman1 · May 2002

sdmike - I'm sure if you could handle the wood trim mod, you could handle the letter painting in the engine

glennbp - I simply used a fine artist brush, some silver auto touch up paint, and a steady hand. The touch up paint went on smoothly and dried quickly without any runs. I'll probably go over it again one more time for a second coat. I'm happy with the results and so far engine heat hasn't been a problem. I know that my car's exterior paint can get mighty hot sitting in the sun so I don't think the valve cover heat will pose a problem either.

glennbp · May 2002

Thanks for the info. I think I'll give it a go this weekend. I agree with the heat issue; our valve covers are plastic composite and don't get nearly as hot as you would think.

beach15 · May 2002

Any pics yet? I'm interested to see what your Cypress M looks like with the spring drop. How much has it improved the handling? I thought I remember reading that with sport lowering springs, the non-PHP struts felt too soft. Do you like it?

silverbullet4 · May 2002

Anybody have this happen to your M? About 20 seconds after shutting off the engine, but with doors still closed, the "door ajar" light comes on, along with the interior lights. They stay on until some protection feature turns them off after 10+ minutes. I took it to my 5*, and they replaced the door switch, without result. Now I have to go back and let the Electrical guy work on it. They assigned the Trim guy the first time. I told the SM that I bet it will be the BCM because it is our favorite whipping boy ;>)
Not a lot of fun driving at night with the interior lights all blazing away. Hope they fix it right tomorrow, and don't have to wait a week for parts.

Haven't posted lately. Had to update my OS.
Silver

toms99 · May 2002

I thought of doing this when I changed my plugs and gave my engine a good cleaning.

My plan is to use gold paint to match the exterior and the "3.5L" lettering that is already painted.

However, my approach is going to be different...I'm a lousy painter. My plan is to put masking tape on either side of the raised railing on each side of the letters and then use a very, very fine nap trim roller. Since the letters are raised, the paint should just cover the top...as long as I don't saturate the paint and it doesn't drip...

Now If I can just find a way to chrome the diaphragm in the front of the engine like the photos in the brochures!!!

muskateer3 · May 2002

NUMBER: 08-19-00

GROUP: Electrical

DATE: MAY 26, 2000

SUBJECT:
Garage Door Opener Transmitter Range

MODELS:
1998 - 2000 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/300M

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves installing a supplemental antenna to the garage door opener transmitter.

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
The garage door opener located in the Overhead Travel Information System (OTIS) may have a range drastically less than the owners original transmitter.

DIAGNOSIS:
If the customer describes a functioning garage door opener with a reduced range compared to the opener manufacturers transmitter, perform the Repair Procedure

uxca300m · May 2002

I painted the 300M logos on my four mud flaps last week with the inferno red touch up paint.
I think I should have put a coat of white on first as the base black of the flaps is hard to cover.
If I do the valve covers it will be white first, then the inferno red.

rogor2k · May 2002

The 300M Enthusiasts Club is going to the Woodward Dream Cruise. Check out the info page at http://www.300mclub.org/rendezvous3.htm. Also a scheduled LH plant tour in Brampton Ontario Canada on Monday August 19th.

Don't wait to long to commit. We can only guarantee the discounted hotel rooms until the indicated dates. After that, it's every man for himself.

If it's too far to drive (like me) hop a plane. That's what I'm doing.

sdmike2 · May 2002

I finally bought myself a decent pair of polarized sunglassed today, and I'm really amazed at how clear stuff is through them. No reflection of the dash in the front window (not that it ever bothered me before) and I can drive directly into the sun without issues. Nice. One side "benefit" though...something about the way my llumar metalized tint and the polarized lenses react to each other. When I turn and look out my side windows I get a cool psychodelic color show. Kind of like spending too much time in the parking lot before a Grateful Dead concert.

sdmike2 · May 2002

I don't know if it's just me or the car is getting broken in more, but my shifting using autostick - both up and down - feels absolutely smooth and perfect. It's almost just like driving a stick. No lurching when shifting up or down, and even going from 2nd to 1st around 30mph is smooth as smooth can be. It's probably a combination of my improving skill, some break-in, and the computer getting smarter. I just had to mention it though. What a pure joy it was to drive around today with the hole-in-the-roof open, stereo cranking out some BMG (with the Basslink a willing participant) and me running the M up and down the gears at about 4,000 RPM most of the time. The car just sang. ahhhhh..

Drive=Love

Mike

uxca300m · May 2002

Can anyone spell L.S.D.

sdmike2 · May 2002

I can now that you helped!

300michael · May 2002

The only way I can explane it is like having two layers of foam and sitting on it the first layer is like haveing an half inch of soft foam and the second layer is like having a 1.25 inches of hard foam. The car drives like the orginal suspension unless you hit someting like a bump or dip, then it quickly firms up. Actually after getting used to it, I kind of like it. On the freeway it has the same ride, as it did before. but in a irregular road surfaces you can feel the stiffness kick in.

I took on the freeway to 85 to see if it would have the dredded shimmy, and did some hard acceleration runs to see if it would happen then, to my surprise it did not happen. Although I am planning to add the spacers as soon as I get the proper bolts for the trannsmission mount.

I did post some pictures at the webshots site. http://community.webshots.com/user/my300m_ just look under suspension, on page 2.

300michael · May 2002

Have you tried using a rubber roller? Did you use primer, and that hot paint? If it is anything like the exhaust tips, after a long drive it will blister and flake off. It does look good. I would do it, but all the work I have done under the hood, it would be really scratched up by now.

300michael · May 2002

Those must have been some tickets.

easyrider300m · May 2002

I would think a heat resistant paint would be best if they make it in the desired color---like the paint they make for barbecue grills---I would think for best adhesion it would be best to rough up the surface with sandpaper and clean thoroughly with alcohol before applying the paint--I think a hard rubber roller used with somewhat thickened paint would work best and would be the easiest method...

videoman1 · May 2002

I like the idea about the hard rubber roller to paint the letters. That would have probably been easier. But I didn't mind hand painting them. Kinda brought out the artist in me.

I'm not sure how well the masking tape idea would work. I thought about doing that. Around the outside of the letters would be easy but getting inside and between the letters would be tough. Need really thin masking tape.

As far as heat, I guess only time will tell. If if starts to flake off, I'll just remove what's left and do it again.

The reason I chose silver is because my M is platinum. Almost matched perfectly. I think red would look cool too.

lonestarsled · May 2002

This is pricey but these guys have acrylic letters that can be applied to the lettering and the center grooves on the intake,

http://www.prowleronline.com/goldcoast.html

lonestarsled · May 2002

For those that requested the pics I will be emailing them out Thursday evening. Probably three emails w/six pics attached to each - total 18 pics. Do not know if anybodies ISP (including mine) have an email size limit. Taking longer than planned, lost my hard drive Monday, ARGGGG!!

wire2 · May 2002

Take 1 more look; the speedo scales are both identified at the 7:00 o'clock position, just before "0", as M.P.H. and Km.h
The odometer is identified by the "Km" immediately above it. ("Km" pertaining to distance, rather than "Km.h for speed)

wire2 · May 2002

>...our cars also have dual calibration with the U.S. calibration (primary) on the outer ring...

Only in the U.S.A. destined cars. In Canada, (and most non-USA exports) the Km/h is the dominant outer ring.

sdmike2 · May 2002

mine has a 5mb limit. BTW, I got the check. Thanks.

kosh_2258 · May 2002

I just recently saw a list that had the Accord and Camry in the top 10 for most frequently stolen. The 300M and LHS were way down the list.

If I understand that list right, it's showing number of thefts relative to the total number of that vehicle on the road. That's totally misleading. If there were 5 of a particular car on the road and 1 is stolen you're immedately at a 20% theft rate. But 1 car is hardly a crime wave.

This is a poor measure because all vehicles have an equal chance of being stolen. This statistic penalizes vehicles that have lower sales numbers.
I think somebody is looking for an excuse to raise rates even on infrequently stolen vehicles.

That's what I hate about statistics, they can be manipulated to "prove" anything.

fastdriver · May 2002

kosh_2258-

I thought the same thing. For as long as I can remember, Hondas and Toyotas have been at the top of the list. I thought that with all of Honda's and Toyota's quality problems, they must have dropped down the list and with DC's push on quality, the 300M and LHS suddenly shot up! ;-))

fastdriver

fuzzywuzzy · May 2002

The list I linked was for new 1999-2001 cars. The other lists that have the accords, & civics were onlt till 1999.

denverm · May 2002

I think the most significant number is thefts relative to number of that car on the road. Imagine a city in which there are only 110 cars: 100 Accords and 10 300M's. If there are 11 car thefts in a year (one out of every 10 cars on the road) that are completely random, you would expect that 10 Accords would be stolen and 1 300M (one out of every ten, right?). In fact, though, car theft is not completely random, as some thiefs target specific models, whether they are destined for chop shops or for other reasons. If the above hypothetical city's 11 thefts consisted of 6 Accords and 5 300M's, that would be a 6% theft rate for Accords and a 50% theft rate for 300M's. That would look to me like the thiefs were going out of their way to steal 300M's. As a 300M owner, I would be more concerned about the likelihood of MY car being stolen than if I were an Accord owner, even though in absolute numbers the six stolen Accords outnumbered the five stolen M's.
In real life, I don't worry about car theft because I feel my overall chance of getting hit is low, I always lock my car, I wouldn't want to hassle with the "Club" or other theft-deterrent device, and I have insurance. Still, it's interesting to hear which cars the thieves are targeting.

300michael · May 2002

I too, do not worry about my car being stolen. I cover up my center console area and lock all the locks (ignition plus security ones). My feeling is if a thief wants your car, he (or she) will get it. I just make it harder for them to do so.
Besides our club site offers the thief one stop shopping for M's The trick is to make it very different from the rest so that it can be easly spotted by the police. Something very difficult to do with an Accord or Camry.

sdmike2 · May 2002

I agree...if a thief wants your car he'll find a way to get it. You just need to prevent the "crimes of opportunity" and make it more difficult for them to get your car. I won't use a club or those other contraptions that make it inconvenient for ME. The only time I did anything more extreme than locking the car is when I installed a fuel pump shutoff switch in my Subaru after my keys were stolen. I installed the alarm in my wife's Grand Caravan just so she could remotely lock and unlock the doors.

I've never had a car stolen or broken into...knock wood.

videoman1 · May 2002

A friend of mine had his car stolen. It was some old Cutlass or something. It was found in another town about 30 miles away. The only thing wrong with it was the ignition switch was broken off.

The police said that it was probably gang related. Basically, during a gang initiation, gang members will drop you off in some remote area and you have a limited time to make it back. Stealing a car to get back is a necessity. So I don't think they'll care if it's a Honda Accord, 300M or Ford Pinto.

sdmike2 · May 2002

ok...maybe not a pinto.

blonda · May 2002

It was irreplacable too. My first car was a 1966 Mustang coupe -- rare with the 200 V6(largest v6 Ford had made at the time), CA Special chrome console, original hub caps etc. Beautiful car - metallic midnight blue. People were always asking if I wanted to sell or trade. I had it for 6 years and by the time it was stolen everything had either been rebuilt or replaced (financed mostly by my parents of course). Woke up one morning and it wasn't in front of the house anymore. We determined by markings on the road it was pulled onto a flatbed (not that the stangs were difficult to break into...very easy actually). There were 3 other 65/66 stolen in town the same week. It was a theft ring. The hardest part about it is that I'm pretty sure they parted it out. We tried to buy another one with the insurance $$ and they were all crap - so ended up with a 77 280Z (what a money pit that turned out to be). I still get bummed when I go to car shows and see other 66's that don't even come close to as nice as mine was.

300kam · May 2002

Hi all,
The ugliest point of looking a 300M is from the back with the tire viewed, they're just too thin and not proportional at all. This make the car looks dirt cheap and is not the way should be for nowaday's car (beside GM cars). I know, the 225 tire is pretty wide, somehow the design of 300M needs much wider tire to make it looks proportional.
I'm thinking to keep stock 225 tire in front and replace the rear with 265/40-18 or 285/35-18. Is it OK? I don't want to lower the car or make any changes, just the tire & wheel, is it possible? I would like to hear your comments, pros & cons. It is not quite right for a front wheel drive car, isn't it?
I did have a chance to view a special from the back, the 245 is still not wide enough.
Mine is 01' with PHP.

blonda · May 2002

I have 245/45's on my 99 and it does look better from the rear -- actually what makes it stand out more is the aggressive tread. Maybe the body cladding on the special makes it look narrower. Other people here have had problems with 245's on the stock 7" rim and some installers won't put them on saying they are too wide and unsafe. It seems certain brands will work and some won't. I have the Kumho's with no problems -- but it's pushing it on width. If you have the stock wheels that's about the max width you can go. I think it would look good with wider tires/wheels in the back, but I think 245's in the front and wider in the back would be cool if you're changing out the wheels anyway. Just don't go too far -- have you seen an older model stratus from the back? They look funky as the tires are wider than the car and it's a similar cab-forward design.

andy300m · May 2002

previous statistics indicate that hondas, toyotas top the most stolen list of late 80 early 90 models. the recent article on cnn indicated 1999-2001 models. I agree that there are many ways to read the data and come up with "statistics" that justify higher insurance premiums. I DO pay a little more on my M than on my Explorer.

I always use The Club when I park my cars overnight. There have been reports of increasing car thefts/break ins in my area recently. I know that insurance would pay for it, but I just dont want the hassle, if I can mitigate the risk to a certain degree, I will use the club. Not to mention that the club could be an alternative to carrying a baseball bat in your car when you need it:-) . The club is not really an inconvenience to me, since I only use it overnight.

Years ago, I had my 92 Cougar broken into. It was in Brooklyn NY, VERY busy shopping street, many people around. Since then I learned to never leave anything of value visible in the car. Well, now I have tinted windows (35% all around), which helps a little. Probably the only visible thing in my car that could be thought to be of "value" is the GPS receiver up by the windshield, which does look like a radar detector. But it is actually useless without my PocketPC device which I never leave there.

I think the best thieve deterrent is an NRA sticker :-)

kosh_2258 · May 2002

The rating still doesn't make any sense. You aren't going to get a shift that radical over 2 years time. Sales of the Accord and Camry haven't changed that much. Chrysler sales have gone up, but not enough to account for this type of shift.

The obvious incentive for thefts of Accords and Camrys is for the "midnight autosupply" market. Their sheer numbers mean they have a higher risk of being in an accident and needing repair parts. It used to be the Olds Cutlass in it's heyday.

The only thing I can think of that would skew the 300M or LHS numbers is that those cars are sold more frequently into large metro areas with a higher incidence of the theft overall. But I just don't see them as a popular "chop shop" item.

I'm still doubting the validity of those numbers.

300kam · May 2002

Should there be any diff. between your 245/45 and the special's 245/45-18. The special just looks cheap from the back. No, I wouldn't go too far.
Most cars nowaday have their tires closer to the side of the car, especially European. But the 300M is not the case, this is different from other Chrysler cars. More likey the 300M body is too much bulging out.

300Michael, your lowered M looks perfect now from the side. The tire areas doesn't look like a truck any more with so huge a gap.

fuzzywuzzy · May 2002

For performance there's no gain in having the rear tires wider on a FWD car. If you want looks, ok. You wouldn't want any tire wider then a 245 on the stocks rims. So now you need new rims, & tires. You will have to play with backspacing on the rims. A stock backspacing will only let you fit a 255 tire on.(I tried a 255) Any wider, & it will hit the strut tower. You will need to get a tire that matches the rolling diameter of the stock tires. Like a 245-45-18 is the same as the stock 225-55-17, etc. I had 245-45-18's, with Mud flaps & they never looked narrow.

Chrysler 300M

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