Chrysler 300M

videoman1 · June 2002

Discount Dash is synthetic wood and goes over the existing factory trim. If you have a 1999 300M though, the piece that fits over the shifter trim is wrong. It's only for the shifter with the boot. It looks like the kit Discount Dash uses is from Woodview Automotive Trim (www.woodcorp.com).

The reason I like Dashes Online is because I can get the 1999 shifter trim piece and the long pieces that go across the dash are replaced instead of taped onto. They have both real and simulated wood and it's hard to tell the difference with the Rosewood style. The Burl does have a difference, though. The real burl looks better.

The brushed aluminum and shiny silver kits aren't just thin pieces you stick on. They have the thick clear lacquer finish with rounded edges you see on the wood trim. It's very shiny and very polished. I'm really thinking about the shiny silver cause it almost matches my Platinum exterior perfectly. It may look pretty cool to have the dark gray interior with the glossy silver trim and since it has the lacquer finish, I don't think it will look cheap. If you've ever seen the inside of the PT Cruser and how some of the trim matches the exterior color, I think it would look like that. I'm still undecided, though.

Also, one other thing. For those of you who like the rear wing on sdmike's Big Red, I emailed California Dream and the price is $279.99 painted and $209.99 unpainted. It's $15.00 or less for shipping.

-vman

300michael · June 2002

If you want an fast wing (painted) get the Cal dreams, but you can get it for (unpainted) $100 less at wings4less.

300michael · June 2002

If the wood trim is incased in epoxy, the humidity and weather conditions shouldn't effect it in the first place.

300michael · June 2002

Any word on the HID conversion for the 300M"s

300michael · June 2002

With all the reformating of the site, they didn't fix the Message# you still have to add something like 690 posts to the number you really want. I was hoping they would have fixed this by now.

300michael · June 2002

Any good hosting sites out there? Homestead is going to triple their price, and I have Webshots, but would like to find another site to host my 300M photos.
Thanks

300michael · June 2002

That site will pass us up in a year.

easyrider300m · June 2002

and has some space but I dont know what he would charge---I will put the good word in for you if youre interested. How much space do you need?

scotian · June 2002

$30/yr

sdmike2 · June 2002

here are the pictures. View at your own risk.

http://community.webshots.com/album/41396245WINBwT

easyrider300m · June 2002

good job on the install--looks like it will haul whatever you want----maybe you should have had it painted red like your M so it would blend it better

or you could put little wheels on the ends so maybe people would think its a wheelie bar!

You must REALLY like bike riding!

easyrider300m · June 2002

but leave the plug black---and then paint a BigRed M in the middle of the plug--now that would really stand out next to that license plate of yours!

pat · June 2002

I'm sorry, that will always be like that. It has to do with the way the messages are stored and retrieved. Have you seen my message in Ask the Sedans Host giving suggestions on how to deal with it?

I know it is PITA -- it is one of the "features" of the Web Crossing platform.

sdmike2 · June 2002

Hmmmmmmmm.... Wonder if I can get inferno red in a spray can.

sdmike2 · June 2002

Well, I looked at my alternatives and I think this will be the best solution. Here's what I considered:

1) Moving my basslink. I was able to wedge my bike into the trunk (seats folded down) before I installed the basslink. Now there's not enough clearance. I could try moving it, but there is no assurance that my bike would fit after the fact. The other issue is that it's not easy to get the bike in the trunk, and I can only carry one bike under best circumstances. It's also easy to damage the bumper with pedals, etc.

2) Roof rack. Difficult enough to put on and take off that you leave it on. Not attractive day-to-day, and expensive to get the pillars, bars, bike racks, locks, fairing, etc. I've also dropped the bike on the roof before (my other car and my neighbor's car), especially when exhausted after a long ride.

3) Trunk mounted rack. I had one on my subaru XT a number of years ago, and it was terrible. It was easy to put on and take off, but the foam pads that sit on the trunk scratch the finish, as do the clips that hold onto the trunk and bumper lips. I also BENT my trunk before, AND I'm not sure such a rack would clear my spoiler when installed.

4) Hitch mounted rack. Well, this is what I'm left with. I got a tray mount bike rack as opposed to one where the bikes hang from an elevated bar. Those tend to allow the bikes to contact the trunk when bumping along. The one I have (and I'll take pictures later) sticks out from the hitch about 12 inches and has two bike trays that sit parallel to the bumper. The trays have a skewer for fork-mounting the bike just like a roof rack, and the bikes sit securely, attached at both front and back. No way to contact the trunk. I can carry two bikes out-of-the-box, and I can buy an extension to extend it to four. While the roof racks run around $500, this was about $300 total.

Anway, that's my logic for this, just in case anyone else is considering it. It's also cool that I could, if necessary, go down the street and rent a small trailer for whatever reason and have the ability to haul stuff around. It's funny, when I was lamenting over a solution my non-car buddies would say "it's just a d!@#$ car, put the hitch on", while my 300M buddies were saying "noooooooooooooo"....don't do it!!!. LOL

splatt · June 2002

Then I guess we should go to a threaded format and not worry about it

They are easier to read through anyways...

mikeyjohn · June 2002

I just noticed the post that someone put in who was told that fake wood stands up better than the realwood that some of us have used. Don't believe them!!!!! I have had the Joshua woodtrim for over a year and defy anyone to tell me that it does not look as good.. The Joshua is far cheaper and looks great IMHO. But then if you've got the bucks and want to listen to these so called salesmen and put in cheap looking fake, go for it. Just my .02.

300michael · June 2002

First, you buy a can of bright red spray paint (you must be over 18 to do so). Than you get a bic lighter (or any lighter, and not be a pyromanic). As you spray the can, hold the lighted lighter in front of it and, Waa... Laa.... Inferno red. Of course, it my look black (as burnt to a crisp) to the untrained eye. If you use this method, you may want to repaint the whole car, so you will have it all match.
(warning the above statements, are not to be taken seriously)

toms99 · June 2002

I was just quoting the discountdash.com web site FAQ....They were praising the "advantages" of synthetic wood...not me. I was just busting on valhs who posted a message titled "Faux Wood Blows", then gave the link to discountdash :-)

I have a Joshua Tree kit on my LHS but it is the plastic wood type. I have a 99 (no "luxury group" real wood back then!) and needed the "factory match" rather than real wood.

I must say that that the "bronze" and "burl" combo pictured on the discountdash site is handsome and elegant (IMHO) no matter what the heck it's made of!

valhs: can you purchase a kit with some of the pieces burl and some bronze (as pictured) or do you have to buy 2 whole kits?? The web site doesn't say.....

300michael · June 2002

My Homestead site will be shut down on july 22 (perminitly) I will be redoing my webshots page to make up for it and thank all for your recomindation. I may try foki first. Glen I will send you my new links when everything is in place.

denverm · June 2002

One apparent issue with Fotki: sometimes going to a Fotki site locks up not only my browser but my entire computer, forcing a reboot. I seem to recall others here making the same comment. I use Netscape 4.7; not sure if Fotki causes the same problem with I.E.

300mmm · June 2002

I don't post much but couldn't pass this one up. I really like the wheelie bar suggestion. A couple of casters on each end and you'll get some really strange looks like: Is he serious? and, I thought those were front wheel drive? :-D

Anyway, you keep extending and adding bikes and you might very well need a wheelie bar!

You're the King of mods! Long live the King!

sdmike2 · June 2002

lol! I'm not even CLOSE to being the king...although I've met a few of them. I was actually thinking about one of those chrome boat propeller hitch covers. lolol
http://anglerdeals.zoovy.com/product/RE595S

videoman1 · June 2002

Is it difficult to take off the interior door panels? Does anyone have photos of the procedure? The Dashes Online wood trim kits replace the factory wood accent on the doors and they must be removed to replace them with Dashes Online parts.

dkrhardy · June 2002

A few years ago I needed some spray paint to do some splashguards on a new Thunderbird, so I went to NAPA and they had a large selection of factory matched spray paints. I can't recall the brand name but the color match was perfect. They also had auto quality (?) clear coat so when I had them finished they were a true 100% match to the car color. Check them and/or any large parts or auto paint shops.

uxca300m · June 2002

The Joshua dash kit is and isn't real wood. If you break a piece in half which I did with a spare
part you will see that it is 1/64 wood veneer which is covered by about 3/32 of an epoxy type material which gives it the deep shine.
That's also why there's no need to polish it with a wood polish. Windex works just fine.

300michael · June 2002

The doors are fairly easy.
Remove the cap (rear doors) (the fronts are inside top) under the interior door handle to get access to the screw and remove.
Remove the screws on the bottom of the door panel.
the side are friction fasteners (some call them Christmas trees) and simply pull out.
To get the top part off you lift up on the panel.
The lock stays with the door so make sure it goes through the hole without catching.
Remove the clips for the door handles and disconnect the electral connections.
Besure to reconnect the fasteners and door lock bars when done (I have seen the shop guys forget to do this)

300michael · June 2002

When they did the work on my M they forgot some pieces (luckly they were not really important) so I will go back to have the shock tower covers and a few screws put back in. I told them I would do it, and they said they have to (because of my complant) to be sure it gets done. I never wanted to laugh so much in my life. Oh the ironery of it all.

melzian1 · June 2002

I have a 2000 300M with 32K miles and I recently noticed knocking sounds coming periodically from somewhere in the front end after: a) the car has warmed up and been driven for 1/2 hour or more; and b) the car is driven over some roads which contain numerous bumps or pot holes. These noises do not occur whenever I drive over large bumps or pot holes, and they appear to only occur after the car has been driven and thoroughly warmed up. They also appear to be coming from somewhere behind the engine, and beneath the dash board.

Does anyone have a clue what may be going on, and how I may fix this very annoying problem?
Since my vehicle is still under warranty, and it has been great otherwise, I would very much like to fix this annoying problem as soon as possible. Thank for your help!

fastdriver · June 2002

300michael-

LOL.... looks like THEY want to get the last SCREW in!!! ;-)))

fastdriver

bb_lhs_2k · June 2002

melzian1-
I have the exact knocking sound you mentioned, on my 2000 LHS with 34k miles. Unfortunately, I haven't been able to solve this problem for a few months now. I had the dealer check everything in the suspension and steering systems with no Luck.

But someone else with a knocking sound on his LHS solved it, here's what he wrote:
"Figured out what was causing the clunk on the left-front side. Turns out that the sway bar was actually able to hit a bit of the frame. I don't mean the plastic liner, but actual metal car body, directly above the sway-bar. This appears to a frame-member (not the sub-frame) - it's painted body color, and several spot-welds are visible. Look directly above the sway-bar. The plastic inner-fender has a bit of an indentation to accomodate the sway-bar. This frame-member was protruding below that.

The wear marks from the sway-bar hitting this
thing were quite pronounced, once you knew to look there. The dealer had to cut a piece of it away to cure the problem."

Hope this helps.

melzian1 · June 2002

bb_lhs_2k

Thanks very much for your helpful message, and did you use this procedure to solve this same problem with your car? Thanks.

lonestarsled · June 2002

I read the same post in the LHS forum and cannot believe that someone let somebody cut away part of the car body to fix this problem! If it where a design problem due to insufficient clearance the knocking sound should have been there from day one. More than likely it would be worn out or loose sway bar mounting bushings.

bb_lhs_2k · June 2002

No I did not do it, I didn't think that I had the same problem with the frame. It still seems to me like it could be the sway bar links, or the tie rod ends, even maybe the rack & pinion.
I still have the noise, I'm just ignoring it.

melzian1 · June 2002

lonestarsled

Thanks for your message, and after conducting a mega-web search today, I learned that this noise may be the result of a Steering Rack Problem. For example, "Service Slants" (MOTOR MAGAZINE, April 2002) states on page 51 that "The sound usually comes from the front of the vehicle and is more noticeable at slow speeds when the car is driven over rough roads or speed bumps. The noise may sound like a loose suspension component. Often, the rattle can be isolated to the rack housing."

In addition to the above, in January of 2000 the NHTSA issued a Technical Service Bulletin (190100) for SUSPENSION which states "some vehicles may exhibit rattle sound coming from front of vehicles."

Because of everyone's input, I believe that I have some information to now share with my Dealer when I visit the Service Department tomorrow. In fact, and based on this Dealer not finding anything wrong after the last check-up, I probably will know more about this problem than the Dealer.

Thanks to all, and any other suggestions?

guesswho1 · June 2002

i have a 2000. i know three of us here have had the strut caps and top plates replaced as per TSB 02-01-00 one sold his and the other finally got his fixed after going to his 2star with this info.

2 strut caps part # 5018266AA
1 strut mount part # 4782018AB
1 strut mount part # 4782019AC

this is a $150 repair. don't put up with it go get it fixed.

silverbullet4 · June 2002

Mike, as always, very nice and sanitary installation work. Since my BassLink is on the far right hand side of the trunk I have no problem getting my road bike in the trunk after removing the quick-release front wheel. The bike is out of sight, so no smash and grab thieves are tempted. Of course, I don't ride single-track and get my bike all muddy, so I can understand why you need a tray. Enjoy!

Silver

sdmike2 · June 2002

You've got THAT right. The last thing I want inside my 300M is my mountain bike after a ride. lol! At least you know it's a relatively painless installation and doesn't look TOO obnoxious if you eventually decide to go that route.

jab02lhs · June 2002

"the last thing I want" What about what BIG RED wants? Do you think she rather hall around a bike with a little mud on it or the sweaty smelly guy that put the mud on it :>)) All kidding aside great job on install and on pictures. Keep it up. Still I would vote for the wheelie bars over the prop. Props are a dime a dozen wheelie bars will cause brain damage trying to figure out what's going on. How about a survey on the 300 board??

easyrider300m · June 2002

OK--guys---the poll about Mike's hitch is ready. Click on link below and cast your vote.

http://pub88.ezboard.com/f300menthusiastsclubfrm1.showMessage?topicID=345.topic

fastdriver · June 2002

Looking good- NO ribs and 350HP!!

http://www.detnews.com/2002/autosinsider/0206/23/b04-520305.htm

fastdriver

PS I just voted. Like it the way it is- no propellers or wheels! ;-))

easyrider300m · June 2002

that car looks great without ribs. Excellent frontal appearance and nice aerodynamic look to match its 350HP. Its available with either automatic or a SIX speed manual.

Boy, Chrysler better get to work on its next 300 series car. We need some serious muscle and a six speed manual would be nice too. That Lutz guy is doing for GM what he did for Chrysler--he's the design king.

EasyRider

sdmike2 · June 2002

NICE!

sdmike2 · June 2002

You guys slay me. lol! Hey, I'm sure Big Red would rather have the muddy bike in her than the muddy, sweaty maimed mess that I usually am when I get done with a ride. I've learned to sit on a towel and change my shirt before I get in though.

I have a picture of the bike rack and bike on it, but I have to wait until webshots updates.

sdmike2 · June 2002

here's what it looks like with the bike rack and bike on it.

http://community.webshots.com/photo/41396245/41574218YjVasl

easyrider300m · June 2002

looks great Mike with the Bike on the back--But cant you mount it with both wheels on it. If not, that means you have to put that muddy wheel in the nice clean M. Be careful backing up..at least you can see where the end is now...

I can hear them talkin now: "Boy, Look at that cool car with the neat bike rack on it...."

videoman1 · June 2002

Is there anything you own that isn't red? lol.

What would you classify your car with the mountain bike on it. Luxury sports sedan SUV?

-vman

ajpiii · June 2002

This guy is making chrome intakes for 2nd Gen Intrepids... these should fit out M's no problem... The production versions will be a single piece of chrome mandrel bent 3" aluminum pipe with heat shield & cone filter... and it will replace everything all the way up to the throttle body... Check out the first proto type here...

http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/showthread.php?s=c2a6b2800192 3c49599bf04909839f87&threadid=5649&perpage=15&pagenumber=1

Remove the space in the link, edmunds character limit

I think the cost estimates are only $214 shipped... Im drooling already...

easyrider300m · June 2002

I read up on that intake and I'm not so sure it will fit our M's. Its made for the 2.7 litre second generation DOHC Intrepid engines. Maybe he can adapt them for the M. I notice that it doesnt have an air box so it would be sucking in a lot of hot engine air. The K&N aircharger at least brings in more outside air.

toms99 · June 2002

Oh No! and I just installed the K&N Aircharger a few weeks ago! Arrrrgggggghhhhh! If this guy on the Intepid site is for real, and the thing is priced comparable to the K&N, I'll just have to sell my AirCharger on eBay,,,,Gotta get the chrome!

Chrysler 300M

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