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Chrysler 300M

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Comments

  • ajpiiiajpiii Member Posts: 260
    If I remember correctly, you have installed one of those overhead consoles with the video screens... I was wondering if you had pictures of how you installed it, or the finished result ? I just bought one from ebay, but now Im looking at the roof and noticed the sunroof shade is probably going to be in the way (uhoh) ... How did you install it ?

    Hope it was you who had one...
  • wire2wire2 Member Posts: 188
    I have 2 9" red neon bars mounted in the centre section of my taillights. The "bulb" itself is bright enough, but the glow it offers to the reflector is the same as regular parking lights.

    http://custommopar.homestead.com/files/Blue-Night2.jpg

    So it won't show up too well in the daytime, but will look good at night.

      -BlueBaron
  • kosh_2258kosh_2258 Member Posts: 338
    If the DRL's are the high beams running at lower power, how can you have HI and DRL's at the same time?

    I understand your mod. You've reworked it so that both the low and hi lamps are on at low power with the lights off. But when the lights are on the DRL is disabled. Either the LO's are on or all four at full tilt if you flip on the HI. The only situation I can think of where the lights would work as you describe is with the lights off and you use the flash to pass which kicks on the HI's leaving the LO's in DRL mode (I guess).

    I dunno, the whole notion of messing with the vehicle lighting except to replace bulbs with LED's or upgraded DOT compliant stuff makes me nervous. The potential for liability if the mod is cited as contributing to an accident puts me off. I wouldn't want to be on a personal injury or insurance company lawyer's radar screen.

    The reason cars like BMW and Benz do the DRL stuff like they do is that HID's are either on or off. You can't run them at low power so they use auxiliary lamps to do the DRL function especially if the have quad HID's.
  • brimstonsmbrimstonsm Member Posts: 24
    OOPS.. my mistake. I meant to say in my post
    that the only way I will have four head lights
    at full power is when the lows and highs are on
    you are right when just the lows are on it looks
    like auxiliary lighting. its really no big deal:)

    look at post# 20228 there is a link that explains
    everything
  • denvermdenverm Member Posts: 358
    Here's the link to the detailed discussion of the DRL mod: http://pub88.ezboard.com/f300menthusiastsclubfrm2.showMessage?topicID=30.topic


    If I understand correctly, they have modified the DRL module so that the lights operate as follows:


    1. When lights are switched to "off": the DRL lights (high beam lights lit at low power) are on (just as is the case with the unmodified DRL module);


    2. When lights are switched to "on" and low beams: the regular headlights are on AND the DRL lights remain on (unlike with the unmodified DRL module, where the DRL lights go off when the headlights come on); and


    3. When lights are switched to "on" and high beams: the regular lights are on and the high beams are on at full power (just as is the case if you have no DRL module or if you have the unmodified DRL module).

  • brimstonsmbrimstonsm Member Posts: 24
    You got it see its simple..:)see chrysler cut cost
    by not giving us the option for DRL'S or side markers but if you look in you owners manual it
    talks about this module. and when they ship the
    M's over seas they have DRL'S and side markers
    Already. this module is oem part that plugs right in to your fuse box. this is the same module that
    they put in when the cars go over seas. so you can
    have just DRL'S. but dg300 figured out how to keep
    the DRL'S on all the time.so you can have just DRL's if you want. or have the look of benz,bmw
    auxiliary lights.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    My wife's van doesn't have DRLs but she turns her headlights on all the time because she thinks she's seen better. She THOUGHT that my car had DRLs because she never had to turn on my lights manually (she didn't quite get that the lights were automatic). When I explained the automatic lights to her she started turning the lights on during the day...and then leaving them in the off position when she got out of the car. Of course this is annoying to ME who likes the lights to just do their own thing. Looks like it might be DRL (with mod) time.
  • psterpster Member Posts: 293
    The Uniroyal Tigerpaw HR Touring tire was shown to rate above several other tires in the pending new federal tire rating tests per a WSJ article today (75mph sustained for 40 hours with no loss of air pressure or failures). I am about to replace the Michelins on my 99 PHP. I think the Uniroyal and Michelins are about the same price ($126 each). Has anyone had any experience with the Uniroyals? Also, any battery recommendations for the 300M?

    By the way, my A/C is still working great - I never took it back in to be tested after the dye was added. Keeping my fingers crossed but I am convinced there either was no leak, it is so small as to be a long term problem, or the dye somehow plugged it. 46,000 miles and car is running fine. Still love it.

    Thanks,
    Phil
  • glennbpglennbp Member Posts: 327
    I don't know about the Uniroyal tires, but I highly recommend the Optima Yellow top battery. This is a gel cell deep cycle maintainence free battery with gobs of power that will last many years. I have used this battery twice on 2 different vehicles (including my present M) with great service and longevity. They cost a bit more (about $150.00), but IMO are well worth it.
  • kosh_2258kosh_2258 Member Posts: 338
    I realize that the DRL feature is a matter of plugging a module into the fuse block. They are installed automatically on all fleet sales units.

    The side markers are required in Europe so that's why the provision is there for those and the European bound cars have a manual headlamp leveling feature not offered here. But they can't get automatic headlamps there and we can here. They also have high intensity red rear "fog lamps" in Europe too. The only car I've seen here with them so far is the Aurora.

    I'd be one of the first to vote for a world wide uniform standard for vehicle lighting but I doubt that will happen anytime soon.

    Personally I dislike DRL's so the fact my car doesn't have them is fine with me. I would probably have disconnected them if the car had come with them.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    Yes, it was me. I do not have the sunroof option. but here's how I did it.
    Your should have recieved a mounting (backing)plate for it. I cut a slit in the headliner and slid the plate between the roof liner and the top. I got a electrial fish to "fish" the vidio, and power cables to the rear (I chose the rear because my Vidio junction is under the rear seats) (you can do the connections under the dash and just use the front piller)piller panel. You will have to make sure on yours that the screws you use do not protrude past the plate or they will ruin your sun shade. Too you have to check for the clearance of the Power and Vidio cables, in reguards to the sun shade.If possible I would use flat screw heads and have the threds protrude into the cabin and use nuts to secure the screen (reverse what is normally done). I made a template of the mounting bracket to mark the holes for the attaching screws. My ceiling has droped a little .25" on mine so I will glue the headliner to the roof.(I should have done this the first time. I do prefer the larger roof screen to the smaller head rest screens to to they offer a bigger picture for the rear passengers. I will try to post pictures (later tomorrow.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Well, I am finally back at work after about 3 wks on the road to Detroit, Brampton, Cooperstown, Boston and back to Elizabethtown, Ky. All in all the Cruise was great and the tour was super. Getting to display my M at the plant was a highlight, especially at the end of the day when the guys at the plant were commenting on the color changing racing striping which they all seemed to like. On the down side, although I knew it was likely to happen while back in Massachusetts, it still got me ticked off when my M got clipped in the rear while parked at a restaurant. Broke the left rear tail light and got a crease in the trunk and bumper area. No note, just damage, thank you. I get an estimate on the damage tomorrow. I think I have to eat $200 on the deductible. An expensive meal.

    It was really a pleasure to meet all those who could make it to Detroit and to lead the parade of Ms up Woodward Avenue. [We lost track of everyone on the way back down Woodward when a porta-potty on a side street caught my wife's eye and demanded immediate attention!] We got to get a lot more folks there next year. Great to meet the Prez and wife, and the guys from the plant- Jeff, Mario, Cosmo and of course Jeff's dad, Ray. A swell bunch of guys. The plant tour blew my socks off. Can't believe how intricate and yet well controlled it all was. Wow. Even my wife liked it. The drive home was uneventful, and I averaged about 26 mpg running at about 65-70. My "300M Speedway" sign now resides on the wall next to my parking space in the garage, with the "Dream Cruise-2002" and "Woodward Avenue" signs on the center wall. I have to add a "Eldorado Alley" sign for the wife's side of the garage next.
  • brimstonsmbrimstonsm Member Posts: 24
    Just wondering...? why all the questions about
    DRL's if you don't likem in the first place
    Scratches Head HMMMMMM :))
  • brimstonsmbrimstonsm Member Posts: 24
    You will like the mod it looks good works good too
    I get a lot of looks from other M's too wondering
    How I have DRL'S on my M. and it looks good with
    low beams (eaglite bulbs) and fogs at the same time too. and my billet grill :)
  • wire2wire2 Member Posts: 188
    >...that HID's are either on or off. You can't run them at low power.

    Well, yes you can. I've experimented and it operates just fine down to 7.5 volts, (at reduced output of course)
    I test drove a Mercedes CLK with only dual headlights and it had HID's as a $1500 (Canadian) option. I'm 95% certain that it used the DLR module on the HID's judging by the color.

    BTW, I've come across 2 used razorstars w/ center caps for $100 Canadian ($66 US) each if someone needs 1 or 2 spares. Is that a deal??? Email me.
  • 99_300m_ric_va99_300m_ric_va Member Posts: 377
    Does that Optima battery fit in the front fender well or do you just have it in the trunk? Also, I did not know if you could install a deep cycle battery in a car as the primary battery. I only ever used them to run trolling motors on boats where you use it until you drain it dead, then recharge. A regular battery doesn't hold up as well being completely drained each time. Am I correct in my understanding here?

    Anyways for another battery recommendation, I put in a Interstate Megatron MT-34 at the three year mark. I did it as preventative maintenance, since many Chrysler OEM batteries have quit on me over the years at the worst time for no good reason.
  • wire2wire2 Member Posts: 188
    >I did not know if you could install a deep cycle battery in a car as the primary battery.

    No problem there as long as you remember that a deep cycle has thicker plates and separators, so you get less ampere-hours (storage capacity) from it than a similar sized normal battery.

    >A regular battery doesn't hold up as well being completely drained each time.

    That's been my experience. Killing a regular battery several times in succession seems to greatly diminish the total life expectancy.
  • glennbpglennbp Member Posts: 327
    Wire2 is right on here... the Optima battery is a spiral cell technology that allows for total discharge and then total recharge many times over with no loss of battery life or power. The technology also allows for tremendous reserves in cold cranking amps. I would have to look it up to be sure but I think the CCA rating of the Yellow Top is around 900 amps! As far as fit, I have one in my trunk, but there should be no problem mounting this battery in the stock location as it isn't much larger or smaller than any other battery. There are also many "models" of the Optima Series, so if you are serious, I would do a little research on the web. A good place to start is:

    http://www.optimabattery.com
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    I may be interested---where can I reach you (email)---
  • kosh_2258kosh_2258 Member Posts: 338
    Actually I didn't ask any question about DRL's. Your explanation didn't make sense and I outlined how I gathered your modification actually worked.
    You confirmed that I had it correct.
    I commented further because I got the impression you thought I didn't understand the DRL or auxiliary lighting situation on LH cars, which I do. And I added my $.02 regarding my personal opinion about DRL's in general.

    That pretty well sums it up.

    Wire2:
    Yeah, I see your point. Same is true of a regular bulb - either on or off it's just a matter of how "on" they are. It's just that with HID's you have to maintain a minimum voltage to keep the arc going where a filament bulb is pretty infinite. I've passed a BMW or two with HID's on in the daytime but never checked to see if the taillights were on too. I just recall they were bright enough to appear to be full on.
  • ceichhornceichhorn Member Posts: 3
    '99 model. No water, no noise, no nuttin'. Is there an issue with pumps? How hard to replace?

    Ike
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    is anything else electical not working?---first test is to check the fuse--then see if power is getting to the pump--if power is there, it is either a clogged line or bad pump--do you have the extended warranty? should be covered if you have max coverage
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    Mike , sorry to hear about your M getting hit.Some people are just so rude in parking lots.
    We also enjoyed meeting all of you . What a weekend we had. Take care and let us know how the repairs on the M go
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    18 inch Special wheels


    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1855503419

  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    I guess another advantage is that all three sets of lights can be on at the same time. Normally the driving lights go out when the highs come on, right?
  • kosh_2258kosh_2258 Member Posts: 338
    Yeah normally the auxiliary lights do shut off when the HI's are activated because, as someone here pointed out earlier, in some states it's illegal to have all three lights on at the same time.

    So maybe that isn't an advantage depending on the state.
  • illini4illini4 Member Posts: 140
    Anybody have the part numbers for the replacement seat bolts?
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    There is a TSB for it. It does improve it (far less movement) The TSB's should be listed on the more 300M sites on the club board.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Saw your post about seeing my platinum 99M with the racing stripe leading the parade of Ms up Woodward. How come you were not with us for the Cruise? How about next year? It was a blast. I'd like to see at least 30 Ms next year.
  • illini4illini4 Member Posts: 140
    We took our PT Cruiser to the Dream Cruise this year. Last year we drove the 300M, and met a couple of the guys (Russ Klass and Mike Maggio) at the Chrysler Museum; but the meet got off to a slow start because of accidents and huge traffic jams all over Detroit. As a result, we headed for 13 Mile Road and Woodward and spent the rest of the weekend there. Seeing the Cruise for the first time was so awesome, we couldn't break away. This year we started Friday at Pontiac and worked our way down to Royal Oak, stopping by all the factory exhibits. We'll plan to meet up with the group next year. I can see you guys had a great time. I see you live in E-town. We were through there last weekend on the way to Murray (from Columbus) to see my daughter. The WK Parkway is one boring road!
  • mrl859mrl859 Member Posts: 168
    I know I'm beginning to sound too much like beach here, but having had two M's in two years, I've earned it. The '01 finally sold, so I've been driving the Special.
    1)Has anyone had any hands on experience with the driveability of the Special as compared to an '01? My Special seems to have more engine vibration at idle than the '01 did. It only has 134 miles on it, so it may smooth out. Just wondering if any other Special owners have an opinion.
    2)The transmission shifts seem to be much more noticeable under normal driving. Also, if the transmission kicks down to 2nd on the freeway (which it does very easily), it does not shift back up for a few seconds after the gas pedal is released. It would be great on a racetrack going into a turn. Is this normal for the Special? I know the Special claims to have different transmission control logic.
    3)The stereo sounds poor. I drove a co-worker's 1999 yeterday and it sounds a million times better, as did my 2001. I've already corrected the out of phase wiring on the front door speakers. The 2002 stereo does not seem to have as much "presence" as the earlier ones. Have the speakers changed? I know a lot of people have claimed the amp is much worse, but I have trouble believing it's the amp. I'm thinking speakers. I got ahold of a shop manual and they don't show a reference for the solid green and solid black wires that are soldered to the sail panel front door (tweeter) speakers. How does one know if they're in or out of phase? The manual does not acknowledge the existence of this small harness on the speakers themselves. I tried swapping the one out of the 1999 and it seems like it has better highs. Suggestions?

    Thanks one and all.
  • silverbullet4silverbullet4 Member Posts: 449
    I don't believe phasing is very critical in a tweeter because of the shorter wavelength and the beaminess of the transducers themselves. In the bass range an out-of-phase hookup will cause cancellation at the midpoint (quickly diagnosed with the balance control). A sad fact of life is that audio equipment manufacturers will usually "overengineer" the first production runs of equipment to establish rave reviews, then perform "value engineering" by substituting inferior components in the second year. Keeping the price the same of course. I have seen it done in the high-end turntable market. I suspect the car biz is not immune to this strategy. Anything not directly affecting safety is fair game. The car manufacturers are constantly pressuring their suppliers to cut prices.

    Good luck,

    Silver
  • mrl859mrl859 Member Posts: 168
    Does this apparent reduction of sound quality explain the omission of the Infinity emblem on the sail panel speaker enclosures???????????
  • glennbpglennbp Member Posts: 327
    Why don't you think it's the so called amp? My feeling is the quality of the design and build of these new amps is so poor, that almost anything else would work better. I agree with previous posts about the speakers that the wiring being out of phase will not overly affect the quality of sound. If you don't believe that, come over and listen to my sound system that I can intentionally place out of phase for testing purposes. From all the negative comments from just about everyone that has an '02, I believe the only answer is to trash the amp and speakers for aftermarket stuff. I don't think DC is going to do anything else about it. There is, I understand, a TSB out there for this amp, but I feel changing it would just be trading one piece of junk for another. My advice is to get a really nice sound system installed; something that the M deserves to have and then bill DC for it.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    mrl859-

    I swear- I haven't been near your car! ;-)))))

    fastdriver
  • mrl859mrl859 Member Posts: 168
    Glenn-Somehow I don't think DC is gonna' pay me to install aftermarket stuff. Go figure. Do you still have any of your original audio components? Does the TSB you reference indicate replacement with a different part #? Can anyone provide me with the TSB # so I may research?
  • splattsplatt Member Posts: 328
    Kosh - actually there are several cars in the US that have that odd single rear foglight. Volvo and Audi have them standard. When we got my wifes volvo, I thought one of them burned out when I turned it on (there is a space on the other side of the trunk for another bulb - just no socket there it turns out ;) It's only supposed to be one....


    mrl859 - you can find the tsb here http://pub88.ezboard.com/f300menthusiastsclubfrm8.showMessage?topicID=132.topic and there is more useful info here http://pub88.ezboard.com/f300menthusiastsclubfrm11.showMessage?topicID=30.topic you can check to see if the wires are crossed - also there seems to be a recall on some of the headunits. Good luck!

  • mrl859mrl859 Member Posts: 168
    Thanks for the great info. I've already corrected the speaker wiring (they were reversed) which changed it from sounding like a $5.00 walkman to a $40.00 walkman. Now we're going for the sound of a 30k+ luxury car! I called three dealers where I know people (there's power in numbers, you know) about the TSB. One states it doesn't exist and the only TSB is on the speaker wiring. Another states that it only applies to radio option code ARF and is checking my V.I.N. The other is still checking.
  • kosh_2258kosh_2258 Member Posts: 338
    My experience:

    Engine: Mine was "tight" when I got it and seemed a bit rough at idle. As it got broken in it smoothed out and runs fine now.

    Tranny: Yeah, the shifting is more aggressive than the standard one. It holds the gears longer when you step on it. But with only 134mi on it it's still learning your driving habits, and the stiff engine doesn't help. Give it about 1000 miles to get settled in. You'll start noticing improvement around 500 miles or so.

    Stereo: Yeah it lacks presence to be sure. I've totally upgraded the speakers and it helped some but the music still has no authority behind it. Glennbp is right that the amp is the culprit. I'm pulling together my plan to replace that amp very soon with a good aftermarket one.

    My prediction is that when the LX cars arrive on the scene the premium audio will be by Bose. Reason? The LX electricals will be shared with the MB E Class. MB's sound systems are now almost exclusively by Bose and Bose totally integrates their systems right down to the vehicle wire harness. If the LX is sharing the harness with the E Class there isn't much room there for anything else. That's likely the reason that the Infinity branding is being phased out.

    Splatt, I suspected there were probably others but I don't see many Volvo's around here. Oddly the Aurora has a pair. I've followed them on occasion when the fogs were on. They are an extremely intense red and can actually get a bit painful if you follow too close. But they definitely made the car show up in the haze.
  • mrl859mrl859 Member Posts: 168
    Dealer #2 says my car is covered. Apparently, the bulletin discusses the speaker wiring, speaker grille and speaker mounting tightness, and then ultimately defaults to amplifier replacement. So I get a new amp. It'll be next Saturday before I can get it done (if it comes in by then). Maybe there IS hope for those of us with lousy stereos in '02s!
  • wencaowencao Member Posts: 52
    G35 , next is Z350, 287hps, fast car. Chrysler discovered the power of NEW 3.5L V6 and just wasted it! GM is faster than Chrysler to bring NEW cars to market XLR, NEXT CTS will have 5.7L V8 soon. Now Chrysler have to Watch out not only imports but also GM.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    The Target stores have the Neon wire for $9 for 15' and the purple goes for $4 I also picked up 10" neon lighting for $4 each all on Clearance. Now to come up with some used for them.
  • glennbpglennbp Member Posts: 327
    Glad to hear that your system is covered. I really want to follow up on this! When your amp is replaced, let us know if there is any major difference in sound quality and in particular less distortion at higher volumes. I don't know for sure, but I am beginning to believe that the trunk mounted amp is not really an amp at all, but an "amplified crossover". It's design (no heatsinks) and very light weight would indicate a lack of output power, but the wiring certainly makes it a multi-channel crossover. Now look at the heatsinks on the head unit - I believe that's where most of the signal is coming from. If anyone has more info on this, please chime in!
    BTW - I gave my stock speakers to 300michael. By now, he has probably hooked up a public address system under the hood! LOL!!!
  • denvermdenverm Member Posts: 358
    My 2000 PHG M had new front brake pads put on at 23K miles, which I thought was pretty early (and others on this board agreed). I took my car in recently just before 36K for some minor final warranty issues, and when I picked it up the dealer told me the front pads were down to 2/32. I said something must be wrong if the pads are gone in 13K miles. Brought it back today to have them check it out, and they say there is nothing wrong with calipers, etc. They say that the pads probably wore quickly this time because I declined to have the rotors turned last time. Any comments?
  • psterpster Member Posts: 293
    Den, I have 46,000 miles and no brake fade on my 99 PHP. In fact, I was thinking about the brakes this morning on my way to work and marveling at how firm they felt - no fade, no noise. These are the best brakes I have experienced on a car. I hate to sound the pessimist, but I have come to not trust Chrysler 5* service advisors anymore. If I don't know what the problem is before I go in, I don't let them tell me. The former 5* I used tried to sell me a $1200 evaporator replacement that has now proven to be totally unnecessary. I would not worry about the brakes until they make noises or you feel their performance diminishing.
  • splattsplatt Member Posts: 328
    Take the car to another type of shop, like a pepboys or such, and ask them to look at the brakes. Pepboys will look for free (though you may wait a bit). Just to get a second opinion.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    We were told today that we will be shut down for two weeks starting Sept 16 till Sept 27. They say sales are down , but is it a coincidence that our contract expires Sept 17 ? HHHHMMMMM!!!!!
  • 99_300m_ric_va99_300m_ric_va Member Posts: 377
    Just as we told your plant manager when we were at the tour, Chrysler Marketing is not "selling" the car very well and two week shutdowns and elimination of the third production shift is a result. I see a few commercials advertising 0% financing, but that's it. They usually show the Chrysler sedans driving as a group, but don't really talk in much detail about the cars. I can't remember the last Intrepid commercial I've seen.
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    the razorstars allow you to check your own pads--I do it all the time----just look at the caliper area and note the thickness of the pad---if much less than the thickness of the metal its mounted on, they are nearing being worn out. But you can let them go till about 3/16' or so before replacing to prevent any scoring damage.

    Did they say all 4 were worn? Unless your rotors were seriously scored which I doubt at 23K, I smell a snow job. And its too early to snow yet. I have caught so many mechanics trying to squeeze some extra bucks out of me for work not needed that I trust none of them . But most didnt succeed and some lost my business. Learn all you can about your car and you can prevent a snow job. I bet if they knew what you did for a living you would get treated a little more honestly.

    I have 39k on my original pads . I have another few thousand miles still remaining on them. My other cars usually needed brakes at about 22k. I use the autostik on occasion to slow down a little quicker but dont abuse it by jamming into 1st too early. That may explain the extra life I am getting. My rotors however show signs of warping. I may go with the raybestos rotors but will stick to factory pads.
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    Bingo! If you don't have any advertising, you're not going to have much business other than word of mouth. This is still a competetive sport/mid-lux sedan despite shortcomings, but there's still a lot of people who have no idea that the car even exists. You see commercials for the G35 everywhere, the TL-S is always on, etc., etc, and they all give excellent video and details. Chrysler does nothing but think it's going to sell a $30k leather-lined sedan by showing a picture of one in a commercial that also includes a cheap Voyager, and is just to advertise 0% financing. They still do have the 300M-Amish commercial, but I've only seen it 2-3 times in the last 5 months.

    otto- It's a shame you have to keep getting shut down, but Chrysler is clearly to blame. Rarely do you ever see this situation with other auto plants, with the exception of dirt poor Isuzu who just announced the same plan "to reduce overstocked dealer inventory". You'd never hear of something like that happening at a Honda/Acura plant, or even the stupid Chevy Impala plant, as they're working constantly just to keep up with demand. These are also the cars that happen to be advertised, hmm, what a shock!

    I'd venture to say that from now until the day the last LH-car is built, things are going to be increasingly slow, as you can't keep selling the same un-changed designs for such a long period without promotion when there's such strong competition beating the doors down. They must really be trying to make the new LX-cars quite a step up from the LH, with pushing the intro dates back so far. But, the problem is, a lot of people are left idle in the meantime when they just can't figure out why designs that are on their 5th or 6th year are growing less and less popular.
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