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Chrysler 300M

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Comments

  • kosh_2258kosh_2258 Member Posts: 338
    Depending on how comfortable you'd feel doing this you could wet sand the rough spots with 1000 -> 1500 grit wet or dry sand paper to get the majority of it out. Then do a final polish with either a clear coat polishing compound, or something called Novus Plastic Polish.


    Novus isn't real easy to find but there are a number of places that carry it or you can get it from the manufacturer.


     http://www.noscratch.com/novus/

  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    I don't know , both factory batteries in my cars lasted at least 6+ years before I needed to replace them. Maybe all this aftermarket electrical equipment some of you guys have installed shortens the life of your battery.
  • uxca300muxca300m Member Posts: 155
    I don't care what you think. I wanted blue lights in my M. The pictures don't do them justice but they look great in person. Take a look at

    http://webhome.idirect.com/~mhicken/
  • psterpster Member Posts: 293
    My OEM starts fine, I have no complaints about it whatsoever. I'm just afraid at 3 years it's going to go dead on me. And a few of the posters are right, batteries no longer seem to give any warning they are about to "fail". No more slow deaths......
  • antitech1antitech1 Member Posts: 7
    I have been lurking at this and other message boards since August 2001, just a few days after I picked up my '01 300M (premium stereo, moon roof, Champagne pearl metallic, charcoal interior, no PHG or lux). Over 1 year and 32k miles have passed and no issues so far. My obsession with my machine hasnt diminished in the slightest. My reluctance to post was based on not having any pictures to post until now. "http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/chrysler300mownersassocation/lst" . More to come if Santa brings me a digital camera for Christmas. When I first visited some of the various web sites showing different modifications, I thought to myself "Why would anyone want to mess with perfection? These guys are nuts!" Since then, I have caught the bug. After looking at everyone elses cars, my vehicle seems incomplete by comparison without the Dual exhaust. I have already done a few minor mods; splash guards (I trimmed an inch off the bottom and painted to match the body), Filled and painted the license plate holes in the front grill, Hood light, Custom visor stickers and shaved letters off the doors. If an original idea comes to mind I will let you know. I would appreciate some feedback on the splash guards.. too much? leave em black? They do the job they are designed for, I am just a little unsure about how they look. Sorry for the long post. I just want to thank everyone (you know who you are, to many to list here) Who has a 300M webpage, posted on this message board, or has posted pictures. All of you have been an inspiration. I would also like to encourage other lurkers to chime in with or without pictures.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Well, I replaced the OEM battery this weekend. Had some 1/2 to 1 second delays before anything would happen when I would turn the key to start the car so I figured it might be wearing down at 53 months so I went for a Diehard. Almost blew my cool. I showed the mechanics that according to the book the battery could be removed without taking off the wheel and shroud, so when I come back from paying for the battery, they've got it up on the lift and the wheel and shroud taken off, as well as the stuff from the engine compartment. Took em 15 minutes to get the battery changed and 30 minutes to get the shroud back in, and I am not even sure they did that right, as the guy asked me how many clips are on the shroud. Like I would know. At least he listened when I said no more than 80 psi on the the torque wrench. I was gonna see about doing the inside of the wheel wells with Rhino truck bed spray stuff, but maybe that wouldn't be such a good idea if you have to get at stuff thru the wheel well shrouds. Interestingly, the labor to put it in cost a little more because the Sears computer rated the installation on the 300M as "difficult." I will now have to see if the hesitation has disappeared. It did not hesitate this am when I came to work.
  • travisgreggtravisgregg Member Posts: 9
    I may be buying an M soon and am trying to get an endorsement from someone who has 75K plus miles. I see that Indydriver appears to have 100K. Is the love still there for those who have them at those miles ? Major issues,ie: transmission failures, engine/electronics etc. For the most part those with 30k miles on this group seem to love them. I am looking at either new 2002 or slightly used 02. thanks for the help
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    When is the latest date to order a 2003 LH? It's only a few months, right? The reason I'm asking is because I was just reading on a automotive production site that 2003 Sebring/Stratus orders were closed on 11/13, and Grand Cherokee orders are also closed and 2004's can be ordered at a dealer now, anywhere. I'm wondering why this is happening for so many models? With the LH's, it's because of the new LX cars late next year, but what else is Chrysler doing?

    Anyone know? Anyone here have a 2003 yet? I haven't seen any being purchased since they first arrived a few months ago, just sitting there collecting dust.
  • blondablonda Member Posts: 542
    What a coincidence....I haven't read this board in several days and come to fiind out you all are talking about changing out batterys. Mine was working fine, but figured 4 years for a 3-year battery was chancing it a little. Replaced mine yesterday. This was my 2nd purchase of a Costco brand battery -- they claim to be comperable to the Die Hard and have a 100 month warranty. Was happy with the last one so went for it again (only $43). My husband and I did a joint effort on the battery. Turned the wheel to the right and the shroud in the wheel well came off easily. Since I had the K&N charger we only had to remove the filter for easier access from the top. The hardest part was getting to the bracket screw towards the engine. After that it was very easy.

    BigMike5 - I almost took mine to Sears instead of doing it myself and getting the Die Hard. After hearing your story I'm glad I didn't. (did they charge extra for the install?) The owners manual does say to remove the air box and the shroud -- You really need to do both to get the the bracket. I guess they thought removing the wheel would be easier (!). The only thing changing the battery myself is now I have to take the old one somewhere for recycling.
  • blondablonda Member Posts: 542
    The flaps look nice. Were those the ones with the 300M logo? I have heard they are a little long. I know what you mean about the mods. I had added the dual exhaust, air charger and dash kit about a year ago. Though I was done. I finally decided last week to get the molded mud flaps -- I'm tired of cleaning the splash off the car and think they will look good as well.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Blonda-- Congrats on doing it yourself with hubby help. I don't have the tools to do it or the guts to try. Sears charged $79 for the Diehard Gold and $26 for the installation. I have only replaced one other in recent memory and that was on my wife's old Toronado. It quit just "zap" one day at a filling station, between stopping and going. I think the dealer got me about $80 for a new battery so I didn't feel too bad about the Diehard price. Least its got 3 years full replacment and 5 year pro-rated replacement. Were the OEM batteries rated for 5 years or 3? I just assumed 60 months, but maybe it was 36?
  • blondablonda Member Posts: 542
    The dealer told me the OEM batteries were 3-year only
  • antitech1antitech1 Member Posts: 7
    I got the Mopar molded splash guards without the logo. Since I trimmed about an inch off they haven't dragged the ground like they did before. They definitely deflect any splash and gravel (my main concern). I was afraid that if I left them black they would stand out to much with my light colored paint, so I painted them myself. The end result is now they stand out more. On your Black 300m they should blend right in.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    I still have my orginal battery (3yrs, 10 months) and it is showing signs of trouble. I have a lot of extra electronics and the HID's don't help any. I figure in a couple of months I will be looking for a new one.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    Sorry if you got the disease from me. I know it can be very contagous. I hope you don't get (and miss all the fun) will soon.
    I like the idea of painting the outside part, but not the tire side. If my car wasn't lowered so much I would get the molded ones.
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    I have over 44k on my 00M and still love it. Lots of little issue though--got most covered under warranty---Its at the dealer's now getting a few issues resolved moving drivers seat on acceleration, bcm to fix light show problem, door lock actuator, flaking steering wheel, etc. The main thing is that the power train is usually dependable and I would think should easily make it to 100k and beyond.

    You're lucky in that the first owner took most of the depreciation hit. Buy it as cheap as possible and then add some nice mods like others have done.
  • antitech1antitech1 Member Posts: 7
    300Michael,
    You are definitely a carrier.
    I only painted the outside.. a couple of times actually, The rear ones kept dragging, and getting messed up.
    I really dig what you did with your shifter lights. I may have to steal that idea. Also Blondas exhaust tips are way cool. SDMike's painted rotors are great except red wont go on my car. AjpIII rims and dvd/lcd screens... awesome car.
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    drive = love

    Mechanically, I had a few trans problems early on that were repaired under warranty. At 38,000 I had a front sway bar bushing fail...they had to replace the entire assembly...a $600 repair that was technically not covered by my extended warranty but my (really a) 5* got Chrysler to do it for the $100 deductible anyway. Zero problems in the last 60,000 miles. I have not had any of the tire problems many have complained of here. No window failures although they are sounding pretty creaky these days. I drive it for business so lots of highway miles and maybe non-typical service life issues. I averaged 22.5 mpg for all miles the first two years when I tracked every tank of gas. It still doesn't burn any oil and while I have not read every one of the 21,417 posts here, I have never seen any complaints of engine reliability issues. My interior definitely shows signs of wear and tear, but the only thing I would call unusual was the breaking of one of the main driver seat attachment bolts. I wish I had time to go Zaino-crazy like a lot of contributors here, but my warhorse just goes to the car wash every couple of weeks and the exterior has held up well. But, (and this is why this vehicle is destined to be a classic) I still feel a sense of pride when I see it sitting in the parking lot and know it is mine. The styling still looks remarkably fresh to me after four years. The "N" that Otto will start building pretty soon may be a great car, but it will be a totally different car and having one of the last M's may turn out to be a very good thing.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Got the slight hesitation in starting again this a.m. I turn the key to start it and there is about a 1/2 second pause before anything happens. Any ideas? The battery is now a brand new Diehard, so I don't think it could be that. Is there a relay or celanoid that involves the ignition key. One day I tried my extra key just in case it was a chip problem with the key and it gave me the same result when I tried it. I have noticed that it happens most often when the car has sat overnight or for an extended period during the day. Any thoughts on this before I try the dealer?
  • cmyers300mcmyers300m Member Posts: 206
    Hey guys, if I were to go with HID wannabe's, does anyone have suggestions? I see that the Sylvania Silverstars aren't yet available, any one else know of a close match to actual HID's? I see Midnight Moose has Eaglite Xenon's and Max Super White's. Are either of those good? How about PIAA's?? I don't want the kind that just look blue and provide no lighting benefit.
    Thanks for any input!
  • brimstonsmbrimstonsm Member Posts: 24
    Yeah it stinks the only choice we have are
    the eaglites and max xe for us. I did have the
    eaglites in my M for a while. but its hard to see
    sometimes with them. I don't know about the max bulbs. they cost more then the eaglites but I don't know if that makes them any better. I put in some cool blues by sylvania back in.
  • iceman14iceman14 Member Posts: 3
    New to the forum, and not sure if this question has been asked. I'm looking to change my wiper blades. Can someone please help with how to remove and install these? Any recommendations on replacement - insert only or new blade?

    Thanks.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    The ones I have tried in the past gave more light in the center and less in the outlaying areas. Because the filiment locations are slightly different, so the the ligh has a slighty different pattern. That is how they acheve there higher output rating. Simular to setting a Mag Light on spot insted of general pattern.
    I have noticed this on my HIDs I converted. The discharge gas chamber is in the same location as the filiment, but due to it's ball shaped it gives off a different pattern.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    I changed the arms on my M to 28" on the drivers side and 24" on the passangers side. This way the wapers cover the maximum glass area.
    To remove the blade lift the wiper arm up. Then push the release tab (under the tip of the wiper arm) Then push the blade toward the base of the arm (toward the drivers side).
  • iceman14iceman14 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the Wiper tips. Went out and tried removing one and "voila!". Cheers!
  • wire2wire2 Member Posts: 188
    >... a lot of extra electronics and the HID's don't help.

    Actually, HID's typically draw less energy than stock, (35 watts versus 55 for halogen) so they benefit a weak battery problem.

    > Change Wiper Blades ...

    Swing the entire arm up off the windshield, pivot the blade away from the arm, find the tab opposite the arm "U", and depress towards arm, slide blade down and off arm. Slide a new one towards the "U" until it clicks in place.

    >Headlights.

    For non-HID, the governing factor is wattage. Simply stated, higher watts = more light. A blue tint only masks the red/yellow portion of light and runs the lamp hotter.
    If you're going to higher watts I'd recommend a fused feed directly from the battery, through a relay, controlled by the original headlight lead.

    >Hesitation?

    Could be many things but I'd first look at battery connections. You got a new battery lately? Did they clean and tighten the clamps? The key SKIM module is an instantaneous go/nogo decision and unlikely to cause a delay.
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    Make sure they got all the battery connections tight , like wire said.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Battery is brand new, just went in last Sunday. Problem is getting worse. Had to turn the key 4 times this a.m. to get it to fire. 3 times nothing at all, 4th time "bang" it starts like nothing at all is wrong. Once it did it start it drove ok, with no other indicator of a problem. No indication that anything is draining the battery, but I did hear that little motor/fan like noise before I put the key in this a.m. I think Otto had previously mentioned sometime ago that this was not abnormal for some reason I can't recall. I got an appointment for it on Friday at the dealer. What is a SKIM module and where is that located? [In case the dealer doesn't know.]
  • kosh_2258kosh_2258 Member Posts: 338
    SKIM = Sentry Key Ignition/Immobilizer(?) Module
    It reads the key chip - I think it's mounted around the ignition switch.

    (I didn't have time to look the exact wording of SKIM, but you get the idea.)
  • rstilprstilp Member Posts: 105
    Had my first oil change other than dealer this am. Mechanic showed me threads of oil pan were strippng(initial 3-4 threads). Back threads were fine. He said it would only get worse and start to leak.
    He went to the parts store and got a magnetized longer drain plug that works great without any modifications. $2.89 for the longer plug.
    OEM battery checked out at 447CCA. It is exactly 3 years old. New OEM is 600CCA. 447CCA is pretty good, isn't it? 2000 M with 50K.
    OEM coolant tested at -35.
    I LOVE this car.
    Rick/Geezer300M
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    I agree they (HID) only uses 35watts once they are on. It is the 10 amps they use to get them started I was referring to. You have to have the engine running or you will know it.
  • 300michael300michael Member Posts: 1,815
    I hope you all have a safe and enjoyable holiday.
  • psterpster Member Posts: 293
    I am going to take Otto's advice and r/r my battery from the top. Just for grins, I tried to remove the panel inside the front wheel well as the manual instructs (two years ago). If anyone says this is easy, they are bending the truth a tad. The problem is that re-installing the panel is a royal pain in the [non-permissible content removed] and I would suggest that anyone who had someone else do it inspect the panel - there is a better than 75% chance they lost one or more of the clips that hold the panel on. If the person that did it wasn't careful and thorough, then you're missing some clips. This panel was an engineering afterthought and quick fix (and not a good one, in my humble opinion). I may wait on my next 300M until Chrysler puts the battery in the trunk.....PLEEEEEEZZZZZZ!
  • antitech1antitech1 Member Posts: 7
    I got this problem, Im wondering if anybody else does. When I get out of may car I have this overwhelming urge to turn around and stare at my car as I walk away. I resist as best I can, Its very dangerous to walk thru a parking lot and not watch where you are going.
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    I found OEM length inserts at NAPA. There is a clip at one end of the rubber insert that has to be squeezed together to pass through the mount on the blade. You may need a pair of pliers to do it. They are very easy to swap out and this is the cheapest way to do it.
  • blowbyublowbyu Member Posts: 26
    I had the same problem and ended up taking it to the dealer. I also had another related problem, my dashboard lights would flash, usually while I was in a garage. I don't remember off the top of my head what they replaced, but it fixed both problems. I will check the documentation when I get home tonight and get back to you.
  • blowbyublowbyu Member Posts: 26
    Just to let you know that even after four years, I frequently run into the same problem. I just sent in the final payment check last week.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Ok, post it here. I will not see it til Monday, but it still may be better than what the dealer comes up with on Friday.
  • rstilprstilp Member Posts: 105
    Thats a common problem with this car. I think we all have it. I try to just go for the reflection in a nearby window so as not to be too obvious. Sometime at the bank drive=up, I will go to the farthest away unit so the inside teller can see the WHOLE car. LOL

    Rick/Geezer300M
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    I park my car right in front of my house. Even after 2 1/2 yrs of owning it, I find myself looking out the window just to get a view of my
    M. And I still get a lot of compliments on my car from my customers---I even had a few buy an M after they took a look at mine.

    EZ
  • ottowrkrottowrkr Member Posts: 778
    Mike, the fan you hear is the heater/AC temp sensor fan. Every time you open your door the fan starts , this is normal. I wonder if your starter is going bad on you ?
  • david70david70 Member Posts: 5
    I currently have a 2000 Slate PHP 300 M and love it. I have a 2003 Special sitting behind my dealers building as they seek out a way to find a chrome version of the 18" rim that comes with the UltraPerformance package. I don't care for the "painted" rim.

    My best friend purchased a 1999 Corvette brand new and the Vettes didn't have chrome rims but his dealer knew of a place in California that would ship the chrome rims upon receiving the aluminum rims from the dealer. We can't access that dealer and I am wondering if anyone knows of such a California place that does this same thing?
  • iceman14iceman14 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks again for the insert tip. Will check it out.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    antitech1-


    LOL......Common trait. When I had Christine, I used to do the same thing. That Candy Apple Red and that Zaino shine were too much too resist! LOOK=LOVE, OWN= oh never mind, that's a whole other story! ;-))))


    david70-


    Try this- http://www.4chromewheels.com or 1-877-66chrome


    ALL-


    Have a happy and safe Thanksgiving.


    fastdriver

  • no1trustno1trust Member Posts: 151
    I've never seen a 300M w/mud flaps on it. I just read a comment from blonda on flaps, but I was wondering if flaps would make an M look even more distinctive than it already does. Do a lot of you owners have mudflaps, or do you have some input on whether it's a bad idea or not?

    Fastdriver, hope you have a safe & happy Turkey Day too... just happened to be thinking about you when I noticed you were the very last post. Thought you might have kicked this board to the curb (like sdmike unfortunately).

    This subject came up a long time ago, but I don't recall a solution: what kind of "bras" are recommended to protect the M but yet allow the beauty of the M's design to show? Did anyone ever have "transparent" bras?
  • blowbyublowbyu Member Posts: 26
    Here it is: The problem was caused by the ignition switch. Part# 5014176AA

    I would turn the key and nothing would happen. Turn it a couple of times and eventually it would start. Sometimes I would leave the key in the start position and it would eventually start after a couple of seconds.

    Hope this helps.
  • kosh_2258kosh_2258 Member Posts: 338
    This place shows they have them in chrome:


    http://www.aaarims.com/index.html


    Click on the product catalog link then search on 2002 Chrysler->300M

  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Member Posts: 122
    One is in El Cajon, called Allstar. Their number is 619-440-3806. There is a good one in Orange County called Plate Corp, expect the plating to cost from $90 to $150 per wheel,to get more exact you'd have to talk to the company.
  • antitech1antitech1 Member Posts: 7
    The rear splash guards will scrape if you are not careful. also be careful when backing into a space with a curb, the flaps will hit the curb before the your tires do. If you mess them up to bad you can always remove them. When that time comes I will put some bondo and touch up paint in the holes that had to be drilled for installation. As for looks, you let me know.( http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/antitech1/lst?.dir=/&.src=ph&.view=t )
  • indydriverindydriver Member Posts: 620
    the perfect color for the M.
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