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i was told and have heard from a few that it's not good to do that to your a/c. it's best to turn it off, then shut off your engine.
Flyrod
Try this. Next time you start your car, keep your foot on the brake, and don't do anything to the A/C. Then take your foot off the brake and listen for the noise. If you hear it, you're hearing the ABS self test.
If that isn't it, then I would suspect either a loose V-belt or just normal A/C noise.
Have not seen it in a TSB, but the problem seems to span 2000, 2001, and 2002 without much fuss being raised about it.
When I have time, I'll get the dealer to replace my visors and hope for the best. I'm certainly not ready to resort to velcro (which is how I fixed the visors on my 1985 Audi after they tore up after 17 years of working fine.
Some other things I have noticed are these. Some type of floating white crud accumulated in the overflow jug, I think this crud is what clogged the radiator. The coolant was replaced when the van was 2 years old and flushed and replaced when the radiator was replaced this spring. Distilled water was used to mix with antifreeze when the radiator was replaced. After replacing the radiator the temp gauge has not gone any higher than normal. The cooling system does not have any external leaks and the engine is not overheating.
When this problem is noticed the cooling system remains pressurized even after sitting overnight, when removing the cap the next morning air will blow into the overflow jug. I simply pour the coolant from the jug back into the engine and resume my travel, as long as I do this I am not experiencing any overheating.
I am thinking it is a headgasket problem, all the dealership here can do is scratch their head. I know Toyota experienced headgasket problems on early model V6s.
Has anyone here heard of a headgasket problem on these engines? I am aware of the oil sludge problem concerning these engines but I have not experienced it. I have changed the oil religiously every 3K miles.
Has anyone here experienced or heard of similar cooling system problems?
only way to be sure is to remove your wheels and inspect. with your mileage, you probably just need adjustment and cleaning.
sienna brakes are known to squeak/squeal.
goodluck
My question is, what are the symptoms of the Engine Sludge/Oil Gelling problem?
i suggest that you try to find the source of the leak first before you take it to the dealer. sometimes, it could be as simple as excess oil not wiped off from the previous oil change and it just slowly found its way to the bottom of your engine or to the ground.
symptoms/signs of sludge: your engine using up oil, blowing blue smoke, clumps of oil during oil change... to name a few.
goodluck
your car point at brake caliper to wash the dust
away it might help
to clean: remove wheels and rear drums. as much as possible, try not to blow coz the dust is harmful if you inhale it. best way to clean is to use those canned brake cleaner or use a wet/dry vacuum and suck all the dirt. i would stay away from using water coz this may cause rust and parts seizing up on you.
to adjust: you need a flat head screwdriver. remove the rear drums. at 12 o'clock position, you will see this "starwheel" that's pushed against the brake shoes at both ends. u need to turn the "starwheel" down (if i remember correctly). you can only turn it one way and this will expand your shoes. when you adjust the starwheel, you use the screwdriver and turn it about 2-3 clicks at a time. if you do it too much, you won't be able to re-install the drum and u need to back off the shoes! if this happens, there's a clip that locks the starwheel in place - lift the clip slowly and rotate the starwheel backwards. each time you adjust the startwheel, install the drum and turn the drum to see if it will rotate freely. you want to adjust it so that when you turn the drum by hand, it will turn only about half way or one full turn and it will stop by itself. if the drums rotate freely, it means you need more adjustment.
there's a rubber plug on the drum. when you install the drum, make sure the rubber plug is not sticking out. if it is, you have to remove the drum and re-position it.
do all this on the other side and test your brakes and you're all done! no need to adjust front disc, they adjust automatically.
when you're done adjusting, your parking brake will be higher as well
goodluck. job should take you an hour at the most
To jeprox: thanks for the tips on adjusting the drum brakes. Your advice is just how I remember doing it when I helped my Dad. He was a machinist for the railroad; he made custom brake adjustment tools (at the rail shop) for each of his cars. However, I don't remember having to remove the wheel from the car to adjust the brakes. I recall that there was a little opening on the inside of the wheel and you inserted the adjustment tool through that opening and turned the star wheel in that manner, turning the wheel occasionally to check for brake tightness.
What about when it's time to change the disc pads? I have a service manual for a '96 Corolla but not one for the Sienna. I'll just check and see if the calipers look the same, and follow the Corolla manual.
since you are cleaning the brakes so it would make sense to remove wheel/drum and then adjust. i always remove the wheels and drums to adjust.
i haven't replaced the pads yet but from what i saw on the manual, it looks fairly easy. looks like you remove a few bolts and swing up the caliper and out comes the pads. doesn't look like you need to remove the whole caliper.
Now that 'star wheel' has a self adjuster built into it. You adjust it so that the drum just barely fits over the linings. Backing up will adjust the brakes automatically.
We have ruled out tire noise, sticking caliper and wheel bearings. Three places have told us it is something in the transmission.
We are reluctant to take it to the dealership before finding out what is wrong with the car. I have had experiences with taking my camery to get a recall done on the stirring wheel and 3 hours later getting the car back with a 3 page list of what is wrong and how much it will be to replace...
I have been reading archives of this board for 2 days now and I do find this board inlighting and confusing at the same time.
From what I have read, we either have a transmission problem, torque converter, alternator or fan belt. We are over our warranty and hoping that toyota will fix what ever is wrong. Looking for advise on how to go about problem. I have called Toyota warranty department and have been given a claim number and the name and number of the person that I need to talk to in the warranty department in the local dealership where we bought the van from.
Now what, I do not want to go into the dealership empty handed.
angie
lrsmom@hotmail.com
When I took it to my dealer they said not to mind it much, as it is just a "rubber bushing" issue. I asked a second dealer and they replaced my front left strut and adjusted the toe-in, because they said it was noisy. But now I notice the clunk is still there and my steering wheel is slightly off center already.
I am now hesitant to take the van back to the dealer beacuse I am worried that they might make more replacements and adjustments(!) on the van, that probably are not related to the problem.
Anybody had a similar experience.
Thanks...
i've had my van for 3yrs. now. the parking brake kept going further down until i adjusted my brakes, then i only need to step on it for a few clicks.
Thanks,
John
look on the back of the remote to see if there is a model number or brand of the alarm or if your windows still have the alarm stickers with the brand name on it.
if not, crawl under the dash and look for the alarm "brain" which is usually strapped near your steering. that little black box will have the brand name and model number. get it and look on the internet for the owners manual. manufacturer would usually have the manual available for download and you may be able to order remotes as well at a cheaper price!
goodluck.
Took it to Midas for brake pads replacement.
Does anyone else out there have this problem? Or can you suggest ways of finding the problem?
Thanks so much!
karen
did your rear light assembly broke recently and had to be replaced?
there are rubber plugs on the floor (in the rear of the van), are they still in place?
you didnt really mention where the leak is.
San Jose, CA
Fortunately the repair was simple. A mobile "Dent Pro" went to my wife’s work, performed the repair on the street side in about 20 minutes, and charged $99. It involved removing the tail lamp assembly and knocking out the dent from the inside, although my wife didn’t stay to watch exactly how it was done and what tools were used. The result is very satisfactory. There is now the faintest imperfection in the sheet metal when viewed against the light. The paint where the center of the dent was (roughly a 1/4 in diameter) looks slightly crinkled, and looks as thought it might crack and peel off in the future, but it’s still looks way better than the dent.
San Jose, CA
this is why sometimes it's better to leave dents and scratches alone and just use touch-up paints or wax.
Fixing the dent is only half the solution - most people cheap out and don't bother to fix the paint. Not that hard if you're handy with an Orbital Sander and have the right pad. Did it all the time on my old Subaru.
Problem is, from one of the convex mirror the glass has fallen and only plastic part is still stuck on the side view mirror.
What is the safe way to remove this plastic piece which is still stuck? It has some type of strong gum on it. Is there any liquid/ agent which I can pour on it so that it comes out easily?
TIA
John
u can also try a fishing line. pull the line behind the plastic piece so that it will act as a blade and slice through the two sided tape. once the plastic comes off, just use your fingers to rub off the tape stuck on the mirror. avoid using any strong liquid cleaner coz it may melt the plastic casing of your mirror or cause some kind of damage to it.
goodluck
John
The sludge issue is, and has been, a grossly overblown issue, fostered by a small group of chronic complainers who used the internet irresponsibly to vent frustrations at the world in general.
Toyota has responded to this issue in an unprecedented manner by issueing what amounts to an 8 year warranty if sludge problems develop for any reason.
You have absolutely nothing to be concerned about in purchasing that Sienna.
Just an opinion.
but if you buy one used and it's sludged, toyota will make it right for you... there isn't another deal like that out there, so i saw it as an opportunity rather than a problem.
better yet, buy a new CE w/ the captain's chairs and the $900 rebate, and live happily ever after. you'll "save" about 15c/mile if you buy one used, and you'll be hard pressed to drive further miles for that kinda money ... if your credit's good, why not buy it new? i'm thinking about getting another one
if you can have it checked out; the right way to check for sludge is to pull the valve cover and check... the cheap way is to yank the pcv valve out (with really long pliers) and see if it's clear... that's the first thing to sludge up when things get serious, and it's downhill from there. mine's okay, praise allah.
good luck,
-Mathias
East Lansing, MI
The dealer never mentioned the cause of the problem. At first they wanted to replace the motor, then opted for the computer and junction box.
To Deg856: I would definately request to have your door fixed prior to 36K warranty.
I have a thought to press my other door a hundred times a day until the that door breaks prior to the warranty wearing out!