Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Good luck with the new iron. I, too, enjoyed this forum, especially the early years.
I'm probably a mfg. nightmare, no brand loyalty. Build the car I want (and can afford...) and I'll buy it. Badge be darned! Let's see, in reverse chronological order, cars I've purchased for myself or evil wife:
'05 Acura TL (Handsome, fast, quiet, smooth, economical, fun)
'02 Lexus RX300 (What woman doesn't want one?)
'99 Chrysler 300M (a tear wells up in the eye. I miss ya, Platinum Bullet)
'05 Saab 900 (As we were expecting child #1 I did not want a minivan or SUV. Saab hatchback utility to the rescue!)
'92 Nissan Sentra SE-R (fun, fun, fun for weekends when I wasn't driving...see next line)
And now for a short break as I was in sales for 5+ years and had a series of boring, but reliable co. cars incl. Olds (RIP), Mercury and Dodge...
'88 Acura Integra (fun, fun, fun and beautifully screwed together)
'85 Mitsubishi Mirage Turbo (fun, fun, fun. Devil in a red dress!)
I think I'll stop lest I age myself...!
'21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)
I want to install subwoofer. i have 7 infinity speaker and one of my friends has a subwoofer that he doesnt need anymore.
which amp should i buy?
does anyone know how to install it?
any recommendation?
is there anyway i can push my HP upto 300HP from 255hp?
I heard that there is no room for turbo or super charger, and i looked under the hood and everything was packed..
Oh yeah, my two rental hertzmobiles were 1. a Mazda 3, cute little thing my kids would like but brash orange dashlights totally unreadable by my 50+ yr old eyes at night, I had NO idea what speed I was doing (compared to the easy to read gauges on the 300M) and 2. for < 24 hours my 3rd pick after the 300M and #2 now discontinued Bonneville, a Toyota Solara ... a NICE car, peppy, lotsa trunk room but alas a reject 2 years ago due to an occasional rider 6ft 1in tall broad shouldered son. As a 2 door not in the same league as the 300M but a really nice car for the middle aged set none the less.
Anyway, enjoy the new 300!
Also, the door lock on the front pass door buzzes really loud when it actuates. Had it looked at when I took it in for oil change earlier this week and was told that the latch assembly needs to be replaced and would cost $235. For that much money, I'll put up with some buzzing. From what I understand, this is a common problem. I've got squeaky power window problem too.
I've found that if I maneuver my foot between the footrest and brake pedal, I can stretch my leg all the way out. I'm 6'. I've been considering taking the footrest out, but probably as soon as I do that, I'll have to take a LONG road trip and end up wishing I'd left it in. I've also found that if I take my shoes off, I have a ton of space down there. The passenger side is a different story. It has much less room than the driver side for some reason.
Anyway, to my question. I've noticed rattling/distortion in my center speaker in the dash. Can anyone tell me how to replace it myself? Thanks.
The dealer changed the oil and filter on the 2002 Chrysler 300M.
They also went ahead and did a complete fuel system service.
Removed the throlttle body, cleaned the system out from carbon buildup and flushed the injectors.
Colant service was done as well. Drained and re-filled with new coolant.
The heaviness we felt, I believe I mentioned before, is finally gone and car feels just like new!
Cheers!
George
Anyone out there have any opinions they are willing share good or bad with this particular model.
Appreciate any feedback. Thanks, Jea
First one was an early '99 (bought July 1998) and had it for nearly 3 years and 48K miles.
Traded up to a 2001 model 5 years ago today (03 March), with more options and accourtements, and running fine with nearly 85K miles, and really has only been given scheduled maintenance, tires once (around 40K), front brakes twice, and rears once.
-m
No smoke, doesn't burn oil, idles smooth as glass. I should say that I've never had it in for heavy scheduled maintenance, like timing belts etc (that's right, 178k miles on the original timing belt)... I attribute my lack of problems to not having anyone dink around under the hood. And as long as it runs fine, nobody, especially Chrysler is going to touch my car.
Only 1 problem--air conditioner has a pin hole leak which the dealer cannot find so refrigerant had to be added after 2 years (also under warranty). You may want to carefully check this system. I think you will be happy with this car
BTW Killing time at a bookstore this weekend, reading the 4/06 Consumer Reports, most of the used 300M years are rated average reliability to slightly above (vs the new 300 V8 rated much worse than average ... stick with the 3.5L V6 which is all the old style 300M offered). Of course CR is notoriously hard on any North American engineer/built car, but that report and the Edmunds user ratings are pretty positive.
http://public.fotki.com/Scotian/300m/exterior/razorstar_wheels/chrome_plastic_ce- nt/
-Bret
I just reglued the door speakers last night. $3.19 for the bottle of Goop. Dang Beastie Boys anyways.
I had a problem with the passenger door window switch, not making good contact. The guy at the dealer just played with the switch and it has worked ever since.
I had a problem with the fog-lights engaging/disengaging. It is sporadic. I just do what the guy did and jiggle the switch. It then goes away. That's probably what you need to do. Be hard, but not too hard.
I am thinking about how to fix the opaque headlights.
The opaqueness seems to be from inside. I'll either see if they sell the clear platic cover or just forgo it.
I have window rollup/down problem.
I know what the problem is, but I don't know exactly how to fix it. The rolling of the window uses a scissor action. That scissor action forces the gear to rub up against 2 plastic pieces, causing the motor to stop. My temporary solution was to use grease, so the gear slides against the plastic. I think the real solution would be to rebend the metal, or use something to keep the metal scissor straight and not allow it to push the gear.
I don't really know if your motor is bad or not. I wouldn't expect it to be, since you don't really use it all that much. You probably want to make sure it is not the switch before investing in a whole new motor.
Regards,
I am actually troubleshooting that problem today. I already had all my window regulators changed in the past. For about week my rear right window does not go down. I took off the panel and one wire gets the full 12 volts to go up but the wire to go down does not. I used jumpers to reverse the voltage and the window goes down, so the regulator is fine and it is not binding. I suspect the drivers master switch. I took it out and checked the continuity while moving the switches. They are all fine. I have the switch out still so I will keep troubleshooting. I will let you know how it went.
I have no idea why a switch goes bad, other than arcing, which can cause a bad contact, but that takes quite a while for that to happen.
My switch was relatively new and for some reason, it just was not making contact, that is, until a tech at the dealer jiggled it a bit.
I would be curious to know why your switch went bad, I suspect the switch was just not making contact, like mine was. Darn switches anyways.
Also I want to know if there is anyway that I can download another Owner's Manual for a 1999 Chrysler 300M
Thanks
Almeida
There is a whole section devoted to the BCM under "Electrical & Electronic Systems" heading.
The Body Control Module (BCM) has been upgraded to support the J1850 vehicle communications and diagnostics bus. It mounts directly on the junction block located in the lower, left cowl side. It is available in two feature levels base and premium. Only LHS uses the premium controller.
It includes a Battery Saver feature that automatically turns off electrical loads if this is not done by the driver after a reasonable time.
So, from that statement, even if something was draining the battery, the BCM should have shut it off, preventing the battery from draining completely. I would think the problem was the BCM all along. A short circuit would blow a fuse and not drain the battery.
Get 2 or 3 estimates about what the problem might be, preferably from a dealer.
HTH