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Chrysler 300M

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Comments

  • torchytorchy Member Posts: 1
    It started a couple months back. My Engine light Clicked on then started to Jump and shut off. Of course i was going like 65 on the Highway so i put it in Nuetral and Start it up. the Engine Light Stayed on and it wont let me go over 2500 RPMs it also has a Hiss from the Engine Someone told me it could be the AC Condensor ( but they dont really know about cars )
  • rmotarmota Member Posts: 3
    Just sharing an interesting find. So my headlights ended up turning yellow and I was looking for suitable replacements I didn’t want to buy the OEM replacements so I started searching around finally someone suggested I look into the projector headlight soon to be carried by Spyder Auto. Apparently the chrome housing headlights are now available, but I’m anxiously awaiting the arrival/release of the black housing ones which are best for my car. Anyway, If you find yourself in the same predicament, I strongly recommend you check them out.
  • cebtebcebteb Member Posts: 138
    I'm in need of a couple of new tires for our '99 300M (43K miles) before the depths of winter hit. We've been running the Yoko 420Ks for years as the best replacement for the stock BadYears and have been very pleased with the soft, quiet, ride and good handling these tires provided. I find out now that the YK420K is no longer available in Colorado and has apparently been replaced by the YK520K. Only problem is that some on-line reviews by consumers say these tires run rougher and are noisier than the YK420s. Since this is my wife's car, that won't do.

    Any suggestions for the best tire for a 300M for riding comfort and minimal road noise?
  • 02owner02owner Member Posts: 34
    BF Goodrich Traction T/A's are very, very good. Toyo Proxes TPT are OK, nothing special. I'm actually using Goodyear Eagle LS-2 and I do think they got the bugs out of the first generation, but winter will tell a lot.
  • lebaronerlebaroner Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 300M came with Good Year Eagle LS tires. For about a year they were good tires and then after that the traction became fairly poor. I got rid of them even though they had some tread life left to them and got a set of Michelin MXV4's. It is like night and day...the Michelin's have much better traction then the Eagle LS's ever had and they make for a quieter ride. Price wise they are a little pricey, I got mine for around $200 each, but in my opinion it is worth it. The alternatives are not that much cheaper for 17" rims.
  • carnut35carnut35 Member Posts: 9
    For the yellow headlights, you don't need to buy new ones, as there's a new product called MEGUIAR'S® PLASTX. You do have to be able to take the headlight off, and this product cleans away the yellow quite well.

    For tires, the best value and still good performance have been Kumhos. I suspect they're made in China since they were such a good value, but they rate well as high performance all season tires by Consumer Reports, who has good tire reviews. tirerack also has a lot of good info on tires, in terms of ratings. The Traction T/As I think are not high performance, but only all season. I had them in the past with a prior car. Now they make all season high-performance so I would be sure to get those, just get a pair that's fairly quiet.

    My red '99 is going strong at 155K. I love keeping the cars a long time... A work van ran into me about 2 years ago, a small fender bender, totally his fault, and the body shop repainted my hood, the lower front fascia, and the side fender that wasn't even dented, as part of the deal. So I got new paint where I needed it for free, although a lot of inconvenience getting hit, but the bottom line is it looks great. Plan to keep it another 3 years and then decide what to do...

    Happy Cruising!
  • 02owner02owner Member Posts: 34
    Tomorrow promises significant snow in northern NJ, so I will get to find out if these are any good. IMO, they have to be better than the Toyo Proxes TPTs I had on there the last two years. They were awful in snow.

    Happy Holidays to all!
  • rsilvarsilva Member Posts: 1
    Every morning when its cold out and i step on the brakes they are hard as a rock. after the car runs for about 15 minutes and warms up they are ok again. While checking I found that there is water inside the brake booster, check valve & vacuum hose so I carefully inserted a small rubber hose into the booster and sucked out all the water. Could this be the problem i am having with my brakes? Also while i was checking out the braks I noticed when i press and hold the brakes down all the way while the car is running then shut the car while still holding the brakes the pedal automaticly raises back up. So I purchased a new brake booster now i have a problem installing it I checked and matched the new one with the old one and they are exactly the same when i mount the booster to the firewall the brake push rod is to short and stops the pedal from touching the brake light switch. so for the heck of it i tried the old one again and now it doesn't reach either. :confuse: Am i forgeting something? Some one please help me......
  • carnut35carnut35 Member Posts: 9
    I don't know what the probelm is with your brakes, but I would get it taken care of. Brakes are one thing you DO NOT want to fool around with, for safety sake. If your car is older I would get all new brake lines, which don't cost much. I would also get new calipers and springs... Just my 2 cents..
  • 02owner02owner Member Posts: 34
    Anybody have trouble with rust on the bottom of the rear inner passenger door panels? I am beginning to detect some.
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    For those who have not noticed, I spotted this from the Detroit autoshow.
    As quoted below this 200C is based on the 300C platform so it will be interesting to see if it replaces or complements the current 300. It's an obvious return to the more aero styling of our old 300Ms which I still like way more than the 300C design even after almost 5 years of owning my 04 300M. However Chrysler has to EXIST long enough to make & market a 2010 model, a big gamble as of this writing (I also own a Jeep GC and I'd bet at least that brand will be around longer than Chrysler current course & speed).

    http://www.popularmechanics.com/content/imageview.cfm?img=http%3A//media.popular- mechanics.com/images/C200EVSide.jpg&caption=

    http://www.popularmechanics.com/blogs/technology_news/4298925.html

    "The four-passenger 200C EV is based on a shortened version of the rear-drive, full-size car platform that underpins the Chrysler 300C, Dodge Charger and Dodge Challenger. Chrysler says the 200C EV is powered by a plug-in, range-extended hybrid powertrain, similar in concept to the Chevy Volt. The Chrysler system here is said to develop a total of 268 hp. And the company says the concept can scoot to 60 mph in 7 seconds, travel 40 miles in electric-only mode and cruise for a total of 400 miles, thanks to that gasoline engine acting as a generator. And it can be recharged using a 110-volt or 220-volt outlet." Credit to popularmechanics.com
  • illini4illini4 Member Posts: 140
    I had rust on all 4 doors (2000 model) at the bottom where the outer skin is crimped to the inner panel. I traded it for an 06 300C.
  • 02owner02owner Member Posts: 34
    Crossed 100,000 miles on my '02. It is running very well. How long have some of yours lasted? I'd like to keep mine as long as possible.
  • quietflyerquietflyer Member Posts: 33
    '99 300M - Dark Garnet Red - Slate interior. I have over 189,325 miles on mine. I still get almost 25 MPG average on the interstate at 70 MPH. I drive about 400 miles per week on the interstate to and from work.

    I use Mobile 1 synthetic oil and change the oil and filter every 7,500 miles. It will use about a quart of oil during that time. I have not had any trouble with the transmission. I check the fluid level regularly but have not done anything to it. It is the smoothest shifting automatic I have ever had. I am coming up on having to change the timing belt, water pump, coolant, and idler pulleys again, I did it at 100,000 miles and will do it again at 200,000.

    On the down side, I did replace the AC compressor and evaporator a few years ago and my dash has the dreaded cracks over the passenger air bag. That has been hidden with a DashMate Suede cover. I hope to replace the dash sometime.

    Overall, I am very happy with this car and like the looks of it far better than the beast they came out with in 2005. I like the smooth, streamline look much better than the boxy look the Chrysler's have now.
  • jboehmjboehm Member Posts: 44
    2004 300M with 84000 miles. Over the past several months the check engine light comes on, then turns itself off after some time (days or weeks). The first time it happened it threw a p0441 error. Changed the fuel cap thinking that might do it but light remained on. When I got to the dealership to have them check it out they said that the computer was not throwing any errors and they just turned the light off. It came on again a few weeks later, same error, but turned itself off about 3 - 4 weeks later. I have had error p0442 once, figured since a leak was finally detected better get it fixed, but light went off again. Light came back on again today with the p0441 error. The only commonality I can see is it seems to always happen when I have 1/2 tank of fuel. Anybody have any thoughts?
  • cadencecadence Member Posts: 5
    At least your check engine light goes off after a couple of weeks. mine doesnt. my mechanic says its because i fill the tank with the engine running. uh-oh. so i quit doing that and the light came on again. ive been told about the gas cap thing too. that didnt work. i occasionally put PLUS or even PREMIUM in my 300M 2002 and thought maybe that upgraded fuel is too rich for the Oxygen sensor.....so I quit that too. Light is still on and car seems fine. its got 75K miles on it. I guess I'll have to wait until something busts,
  • duffer65duffer65 Member Posts: 5
    Have the same problem with my 2003 300M. It comes on for a few weeks, then goes off, then comes on again. Code said some type of air pump recirculator for gas fumes ~ $400 to fix. Car runs fine, ~ 92k. When the weather is colder, it doesn't stay on too long. Mechanic said a minor problem unless you have an emissions test to pass. Probably fix it at 100,000 k when timing belt and other things need replacement.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Member Posts: 657
    0441=Evap Purge Flow Monitor =Insufficient or excessive vapor flow detected during evaporative emission system operation.

    0442= Evap Leak Monitor Medium Leak Detected = A small leak has been detected in the evaporative system

    Could be caused by filling the tank after hose automatacally shuts off, or a leak in the hoses connected to the tank or crack in the plastic evap system canister under the hood.
  • coolrunningcoolrunning Member Posts: 117
    This is the third time I have encountered someone with this problem. I didn't believe it was possible, but those sign at the gas pumps that read 'DO NOT TOP OFF" are there as a result of fires, damage to sensors on cars and a lot of other weird things that have happeened when you overfill your tank. There is a vapor sensor in the overflow tube of most modern gas tank designs that detects volotile organic compounds (VOC's) emissions from your gas tank as the fuel expands until the pressure is high enough for it to vent to atmosphere. If you leave no vapor space in the fuel tank and fill it until it is 100% full of liquid gasoline, when the fuel expands with heat, it squirts liquid through the overflow wetting the vapor sensor. Since the sensor is designed for vapors, not liquid, it apparently triggers a "check engine" light. I wonder if you will continue to have the problem if you don't top off. It is tempting to do it when you find gas really cheap somewhere, but it really doesn't save you much. ;)
  • jboehmjboehm Member Posts: 44
    Don't top off, never have. Once the pump clicks then that is all that goes into the tank.
  • tammiehtammieh Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 concorde and a/c worked fine. Then from nowhere. I smelt something burning, well my air hasn't got cold since. What should I check? Tried to find thermostat for a/c, is there one ?
  • rogjack6112rogjack6112 Member Posts: 27
    Hope someone who knows more answers you.
    I have a 99 concorde and 99 300M.
    The ac compressor will not run if the radiator electric fan is not running. Check this first as these go out. Get it hot and look.
    I don't know what the burning was ?
    the ac compressor needs a certain freon level to run also.
    Good Luck let us know tttthe results. rogjack6112
  • whatsgoodwhatsgood Member Posts: 1
    2004 300M with 78000 milles I hate this car! I just bought this car 3/19/2009 and thats all i have had was problems with it. First the converter, the check engine light comes on and off when ever it wants to. now it barley change gears. it doesnt know if it wants to drive or stop im sick of this car. does anyone no how i can get rid of it. It looks good but its junk if you ask me. Can someone please tell me what might be wrong with it now. is my transmission going or what? once i was at a light and i put it in park, when the light turn green i put it in drive the car didnt move until it felt like it. Then it took off, then it started to drag when my RPM needle got up to 3 then it decided to come back to reality and drive like it suppose to. i was hoping and praying it would at least get me and my son home.
  • mrmusic4adsmrmusic4ads Member Posts: 2
    Good luck. i own a 2002. dashboard doesn't like up anymore, had to replace the interior door handles. Transmission blew up at 114,000km - i had an "extended" warrenty to 115,000km of which they [chrysler] said, "it went into service 6 days before the year that was offered". I had to fight for weeks to get anything back on a $4500 replacement. It took weeks to get repaired. All I got was $1500.

    Oh, my automatic lights go on and off randomly, even during the day, the car will be sitting in my drive with the lights just going on and off. What the tire pressure gauges too, i've had to replace 3 already.

    I'm done with Chrysler, their lousy products and customer service. Apparently they don't want to stay in business. Just watch the news.
  • tee13tee13 Member Posts: 1
    I got a used 2003 Chrysler 300 m in November 2008 with 130,000 miles and no warranty a little over a month later the check engine light came on. I took it to the dealer and said it was the o2 sensor in bank 1 and a misfire in cylinder 4. I’ve gotten a tune up replaced plugs and the ignition coil in cylinder 4, replaced all of the o2 sensors and the cam sensor. The light is still on and the car keeps cutting off after start and running rough (shaking and losing power) then all of a sudden it will just take off with boost of power. I took it back to the dealer and they keep getting the same codes for. o2 sensor and random misfires. They said they couldn't find anything and based on what I've already done now they think it is the map sensor.
  • coolrunningcoolrunning Member Posts: 117
    Considering the mileage, and the work you have already done to fix the problem, by process of elimnation, you are probably on the right track. MAP sensors can get contaminated with dirt and even insects if the air filter is not changed carefully and routinely. It is not too expensive to replace, and it may have a dramatic affect on your performance and mileage. Since you are already in the process of catching on maintenance and repairs that were likely overlooked or ignored by the previous owner, your investment will pay off when you finally get it all done. Having owned a 1999 and a 2003 Special, I can tell you these cars are beautiful, high performing and fun to drive. Still, as with ANY car, they are machines and require basic maintenance. The "problems" you are experiencing are the same problems you could expect from any car with high mileage. It is worth fixing, and it is not something you will have to do that often. I recommend using synthetic oil in the crankcase, and changing the transmission oil every 25,000 miles. You also may want to flush the radiator and refill it with the approved coolant Chrysler recommends so you make sure you have all the corrosion prevention possible in your cooling system. They have lots of aluminum parts, which is good for saving weight but vulnerable to corrosive untreated water. I also replace the cam belt every 50,000 miles just as a preventative measure. Bear in mind, you bought this car for a really great price. When it was new, it cost over $30,000... ;)
  • cadencecadence Member Posts: 5
    i think the dealership network has done more harm to Chrysler than anything else. they are the most thoughtless, flip bunch i've ever dealt with. i have an old fashioned mechanic that i've used for years and if he cant figure out why something isnt working, no one can. he doesnt like chryslers but he works on them just the same and has saved me alot of useless trips to a dealer and alot of money. the engine light thing does seem to vex him as mine stays on too. have you tried some good old fuel injector cleaner in the tank for general engine performance? for $5 a can, you'd be surprised the things it can clear up. i'd also search out a good local repair guy, check his reputation, work with him on small things, see how he treats you, etc...see if he's a keeper. sometimes its really worth it
  • coolrunningcoolrunning Member Posts: 117
    As a rule. I never take any of my cars to the dealership (no matter what make or model) unless it is under the factory warranty. I also do not purchase extended warranties because they typically never cover whatever breaks. Instead, I pocket the cash and set it aside for any routine maintenance required and eventually spend it on repairs as they are required. I take my cars to the same shop I have for years. All the mechanics are factory qualified and have worked in dealerships for a number of years. They have all the same troubleshooting equipment the dealers use and they only charge about 2/3 the price. I will not allow a check engine light to remain on for any length of time. It is a general alarm indication that should not be ignored. The cost of repairing a minor problem is far less than allowing it to cascade into several more serious ones later. ;)
  • n2naskar88n2naskar88 Member Posts: 7
    Hi my husband bought me a 2003 300m special last year for my birthday! I loved the car at first, drove great, plus fast and its beautiful; but then started hating it too cuz of its issues. My check engine lite started coming on also plus at 2500 rpm its would act like it had a bad cough. I've gotten a couple of code of P0340 and P0344 the past few days. My brother-in-law is a mechanic at Chrysler so he's going to take a look at it for me he thinks its the cam relay but is going to run tests. As soon as I get the results I'll come post them, hopefully it'll help someone else out. :P
  • n2naskar88n2naskar88 Member Posts: 7
    Ok just got my 2003 300m special back. These were the issues I was having; Check engine light on, cranks & won't start at times, bogs down on accell at 2500rpms, dies while driving, dies at stops. I received 2 fault codes on my odometer; P0344 - cam shaft position sensor circuit. P0340 - cam shaft position sensor intermittent. He performed fuel pressure test 59PSI fuel pressure is good need to replace the Cam Sensor. I hope this information is of some help to some of you. :D
  • coolrunningcoolrunning Member Posts: 117
    My 2004 300m Special had the same exact trouble at about 77,000 miles. The cam sensor was replaced and all problems were resolved. I didn't even know what a cam sensor was until then. It apparently is part of the system that replaced what we knew as the distributor. The cam sensor counts rpms and relays the count to a computer that tells the high energy ignition when and where to fire. When the cam sensor begins to go blind, nothing works right. The symptoms where all the same. The system goes into what they refer to as "the limp mode", allowing you to limp the car into a repair shop at low speed. I don't know if all cars made after 2000 no longer have distributors, but the electronics that replaced them are not nearly as durable or inexpensive. My cam sensor replacement job was $280.00. I could have replaced a distributor cap and rotor for under $15.00, or the entire distributor for under $80.00. Those were the days... :sick:
  • alcatrazt2alcatrazt2 Member Posts: 70
    Hey folks,

    Well, I decided to drop by and say hi. It's been a while. My warm hello's to bigmike5, tayl0rd, laurasdada and everyone else that has been on this forum since '05 when I joined.

    I sold my '02 Chrysler 300M and got my mom into a 2008 Infiniti G35 Sedan w/ Premium & Sport. I got fed up with the service Chrysler was offering and am glad the local dealership is going out of business. It's been long overdue. Before purchasing the G35, they forgot to put oil in the transmission while performing valve body work under the extended warranty. After almost costing me my life (thank God my mother didn't pick it up from the dealership) and refusing to give a new transmission until I got a lawyer, I finally got rid of the car.

    I'm not trying to rock the boat but I will never purchase an American car again in my life. I've been patriotic enough ;) .
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    I am another old regular from 04-07, just looking at the other posting by alcatraz above this one, so far I am satisfied with my dealer though. My 04 300M has been doing very well at 55000 mis. My wife usually drives it although I tend to use it for summer road trips since it is much more fun than my 07 Jeep GC (yes I have for 20 years been a Chrysler guy, generally pretty satisfied, and I hope some sort of Chrysler Fiat union continues their better models). Anyway, my reply here relates to what seems to be a 3.5L trending problem with these cam sensors. I have only had THREE things act up on this car in over 5 years other than normal maintenance of course, and now out of the blue our 2nd cam sensor failure. I luckily have the 7/70 max care and got a couple other things done so the $100 deductible is not a problem, I am just thinking will it go again in 3 years -after- the 7/70 runs out? Here for reference is my earlier post on this forum and despite what I said then after 30 months I now have concerns it could happen again!

    #598 First failure in 30 mons - cam sensor chk eng lite by naatz1');">naatz1 Sep 21, 2006 (7:37 pm)
    .....I had the check engine light come on about a day or so after filling with gas, it would go away after a few engine on/off cycles AFTER tightening the GAS CAP. So I was sure it was the "gas cap thing", but the dealer insisted they needed to check it out. Sure enough, it was a bad (intermittent?) cam sensor problem & they replaced the sensor, totally coincidental about the gas cap even though it did that 3 times. Both my wife and I had it lurch/stumble once each so I was suspicious something worse was amiss, I guess the dealer had the correct hunch on this one. First real fail in 30 months & 29,000 miles since new, if I go another 30 mons w/o anything I will feel just fine!
  • linsprolinspro Member Posts: 3
    Hi, my 1999 300m has been giving me trouble starting at times. It will run perfect and then out of no where it wont start. After trying sometimes 5 or up to 30 times, it will start again.when the key is turned it doesnt turn over.Then it will fire up.At first i had the cable ends replaced then it seemed to be fine . FOR AWHILE. then started doing same thing. Now im afraid to drive it. Anybody help. Maybe the starter?
  • coolrunningcoolrunning Member Posts: 117
    If it was the starter, it would happen all the time. If your car has over 100,000 miles on it, it is likely the ignition switch. The electrical contacts wear out and the switch only works when it can make good contact to fire off the ignition system. Sometimes, the springs wear out and will not hold the contact enough to allow the system to continue firing. I changed the switch out on my 1999 300M but would recommend you take it to a qualified mechanic to check it out first. It was more work than I wanted to do, and a little tricky to get everything right. It fixed the problem and I never had to mess with it again. You can get the new switch keyed to your old key so you don't have to replace the remote. :shades:
  • linsprolinspro Member Posts: 3
    Hi, My car has 77,000 miles on it. Your the first person that said anything about the ignition switch.
  • cnmcnm Member Posts: 1
    I have an '02 300M, bought used with 22k mi, just recently turned 131k mi. I can relate to many of the problems people had with this car. Latest issue was a loud, constant tapping noise from the engine but I think I finally got it resolved after pouring in a bottle of Rislone, runs much quieter now. Engine light is also constantly on with a code relating to an EGR leak of some kind. Passenger side door handle is broken and windows squeal when opening and closing. Car is very easy to work on though. Work I've performed myself so far are oil/filter changes, spark plugs, brake pad & rotor replacement, headlight/brake light bulb replacement, inner tie rod bushings, timing belt/waterpump and acc belts & pulleys. And after a nice wash and wax it's still one of the sharpest looking cars on the road.
  • coolrunningcoolrunning Member Posts: 117
    It's amazing ignition switches last as long as they do when you consider how many times they get used. Just running a few errands on my day off, I counted 12 times in one day that I used the ignition switch. Imagine if you did that every day for about ten years! Like anything mechanical/electrical, it will eventually wear out. My replacement cost was under $50.00 (aftermarket), and it took about two hours to change it out on one of my cars. The OEM Chrysler part was on backorder, so I just bought one from NAPA Auto Parts that is probably as good if not better. One tip: pay close attention to how everything comes apart on the steering column. It fits like a puzzle, and can really confuse you if you try to reassemble the pieces out of reverse sequence... and it simply will not go back together if it is wrong. It was a little frustrating for a while, but it was sure satisfying to finally fix the problem myself. You cannot tell if your switch is worn out by wiggling the key. That just tests the integrity of the lock. The actual switch is electrical and the contacts are inside a metal case that you cannot access. It must be replaced if the contacts are burned or worn out and not making solid contact. It can be tested by a competent technician, but he also should be ale to pinpoint the exact problem in the first place. It may be something else altogether, but I was surprised to find in my case, that the ignition switch was failing. :)
  • coolrunningcoolrunning Member Posts: 117
    Wow! It sounds like you are your own mechanic. I only attempt tasks I am sure i can do properly, and pay someone else for the rest. I have owned a 1999 300M and a 2003 300M Special. The 300M is one of the most beautiful cars ever built, and I wish they had never quit making them. It would have been nice if they could have made the truck a little bigger and found a way to squeeze a 5.7L HEMI under the hood and make it a rear wheel drive. Since they didn't, I ended up buying two identical 300C Heritage Editions loaded with all the fun stuff. I love them, but I miss my 300M's. :D
  • noutnout Member Posts: 1
    Good Morning,

    New to these forums but have reading thru them. In short, my 2001M has 108k miles. One time on the expressway, I hit 40mph, and it began to drop down to non acceleration. Cruising to the shoulder, my M began to emit grey smoke and leak (red) transmission fluid. I shut it down, when the car was restarted at a shop, it made a loud sort of rattling sound which seem to be on the passenger side. Until this point there was Never any loud rattling noise from my car. The fluids were check and (as I knew) the mechanic said everything looked clean; however, my trans fluid looked to be overfilled/too much fluid. Additionally, the engine codes were checked and seem to be locked and/or reset such that they were not able to get a diagnostic reading.

    The shop said they "thought" it was the engine becuz of the noise but they couldn't determine this for sure given the locked/reset codes. An army who did simple look over, recommended getting all the little stuff checked--hoses, sensor, pump--and that it was definitely a trans issue given the non-acceleration but the engine just locked up becuz of this issue.

    Any info or assistance you can offer would be intensely appreciated! Many thanks, in advance for your efforts.
  • scorpiosr61scorpiosr61 Member Posts: 1
    Hello: Has anyone had the problem with the front passenger side window. I can use the button to make the window go down, but it has to be rolled back up from the drivers side. Is it a single fuse or anything like that ? Can I repair this? :confuse:
  • rogjack6112rogjack6112 Member Posts: 27
    I have a 99 Concorde and 300M and over the last 10 yrs the windows have been a problem. I have learned it can be the master switch or the individual switch. Most of the time however, if you have someone operate the switch key on, and at the same time bang on the mid inner door moulding the window will operate. Try it. Hit hard. Good Luck!
  • coolrunningcoolrunning Member Posts: 117
    Mine failed under warranty. It as the master switch. All they did was replace the switch and the problem went away. :shades:
  • joshyfromokcjoshyfromokc Member Posts: 1
    I am having simular problems. The car will not start. Replaced the battery and the ignition switch and $160.00 later still wont start. Im thinking maybe starter now. Used to crank 1 time out of 20 and i have not been able to start it at all now. Inside lights and everything work in on position. All i get is a single click and no start. I really do hate this car. Just replacing the battery is a task. Lets make them pull the car apart to replace or check battery connections. I have no idea if the starter is even accessible. Every time i take it to a Chrysler dealership its 2000 plus. Mostly labor on pulling car apart for simple stuff in sure. Any ideas what to check next?
  • coolrunningcoolrunning Member Posts: 117
    I remember having a "one click" adventure with a starter on a Ford Mustang that turned out to be a burned solenoid. They eventually wear out, usually before the starter. most folks end up replacing both because of the miles, age, etc. for reliability in the future. If you have replaced the ignition switch and battery already, can you verify you are getting current to the starter? There is usually a single cable running down to the starter that may be grounding out on the exhaust manifold or it may be burned. If you drive on salty roads, the electrical connection could be corroded enough to prevent the starter from getting enough current to operate. I appreciate your efforts to solve what should be a simple problem. I agree, these cars are not the easiest to work on. I don't think they were designed with owner repairs in mind. But, I don't think any makes or models are easy to work on anymore. The more stuff they fit under the hood, the more obstructed everything becomes. I recently changed out a power steering pump, and had to spend the first 2 hours just taking apart other stuff that was in the way! I don't charge $80.00 an hour for labor, though. It is worth the effort if you can do it. The cars are so low to ground you have to put them up on a lift or jack stands to even get under them to look at anything. Be careful. :sick:
  • wgranvillewgranville Member Posts: 2
    I am trying to remove the starter but cannot seem to get access to the top mounting bolt. I can feel the nut with my hands but I cannot seem to get a wrench or rachet on it.....it feels like it is being blocked. Is there some procedure for getting this off??? I read an advance manual and it does not indicate anthing..... HELP!! Very frustrating
  • clotiiiclotiii Member Posts: 1
    167,000 miles. Have had no transmission problems or speedometer problems. Yesterday, backed out. Put in Drive and felt a "slip", transmission went into 2nd gear and speedometer quit working. Transmission will not go in 1st or 3rd, only 2nd. Is the transmission shot? Has anyone else experienced this.--thanks
  • 300maximilien300maximilien Member Posts: 3
    This is most likely caused by a bad output speed sensor on the transmission. It is a $20 part from the dealer and can be installed by a novice in 20 minutes Access on teh drivers side of the tranny.
  • coolrunningcoolrunning Member Posts: 117
    What a great car! If the car defaulted into the "limp mode" and will not shift out of second gear, there is definitely something telling the transmission computer to do it. Mine did thiswhen my cam sensor went bad. It had nothing to do with the transmission. It is the default mode than alerts you of a more serious problem. By keeping you in second gear, it allows you to limp it along to the shop, and it forces you to fix the car. However, considering the high mileage, you may actually have a transmission failure in the works. You sure got your money's worth already! ;)
  • dano853dano853 Member Posts: 17
    No its not linkage under the vehicle or strain on the steering. We had to disassemble the shift lever assembly, which also required removing the front and rear screws of the console and raising it in order to have enough clearance to remove the shift assembly. After removing electrical connections and disconnecting the locking cable and the shift cable. we pryed the housing apart at the 3 clips on the bottom. As it turns out, there is a small spring which equalizes the tension on the component which the locking cable inserts into. This component is a smal PINK plastic piece directly under the PARK position. On one side is an arnm that the end of the locking cable fits into. On the other side is a small hook which holds one looped end of the tension spring. At least there used to be a hook. No hook= no spring= no tension= no shift unlock= can't get out of park! Tommorow we will find out what part is available to fix it or if we will be forced to purchase an entire assembly
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