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Comments
speaking of donuts---you just made me hungry--its time for my donut run--see ya later
Easyrider300M
That's what I have been saying all day today as I drove my car. This Infinity Basslink is absolutely amazing! I cannot believe the amount of bass produced by this thing as small as it is. It produces better bas than I have heard from most sub/amp set ups. Wanna se some pics of it installed?
http://public.fotki.com/cmc300m/my_300m/
It sounds best in the corner right next to the factory amp. It also needs to be angled slightly towards the back. Look at pic 1 you can't even see it!!!
Now that you have a good starting price, don't let them shaft you on trade-ins, financing, service contracts or add-ons. Do plenty of research to determine what your trade-in is REALLY worth and hold out for it (or keep the car). Negotiate selling price and trade-in separately so you know what you're really getting. Contact your credit union or bank and other financing organizations like www.peoplefirst.com to get an idea of financing rates or even get pre-approved. I had two loans pre-approved when I went into buy my car. The dealer wouldn't beat what I already had in place. Also research service contracts in advance if you want one. A good place is www.warrantydirect.com. Go in armed to the gill with information and you'll help reduce the chance of getting shafted somewhere. Remember, these guys do this for a living. We buy cars only once every several years. They're better than us at it. Information and preparation helps level the playing field.
For helpful tips visit www.carbuyingtips.com.
You've made a great choice in the M. Keep us posted!
-M
How did they hook it up? Did they run the wires off the amp or bring them from the stereo up front? Which speakers did they pirate the signal off of (if out of the amp). How are you going to get to the spare with part of that foot on the spare cover?
Mike
I agree with sdmike2- BE PREPARED. One other thing to remember- even though you're buying a brand new car, it's already one year old and has depreciated one year. So, while $5,000 might seem like a great deal, maybe it's not. I'd take a chance and wait for the 2002's to come out and see what happens then. I'm sure you'll still be able to locate a 2001 if there's no good deals on the 2002's.
fastdriver
How did you decide on that location?
-M
did the installer drill any holes in the cupholder area of the rear seat or does the bass enter the cabin fine without holes---or do you drop the rear seat--does dropping the rear seat increase the bass effect?
I dont see why you cant just tap the outputs from the radio at the factory amp inputs---doesnt the amp have inputs direct from the head unit anyway-- wouldnt it be just as effective as hooking the sub direct to the head unit?
now that you have tested the sub, do you feel it was worth the investment to install the sub or is factory setup good enough--one more thing---did you use the auto turn on feature or do you have an on off switch for the sub
I've been trying real hard to get out your membership packages as I get the the information I need to generate'em. Having typed that,to Haywood P., William R., and Jacqueline R. (members #125, 126, and 127) --your membership packages are in the mail!
I have been ribbed from time to time because of my aversion to 'modifying' eMily--MY "M". Being a computer geek, computers are what I know--adding 'K&N--something', adding sub-woofers, or a hood scoop (Avalanche) is not something for me. However, I recently helped my daughter's boyfriend 'rice up' his Honda Civic by installing --IMVHO, these cool looking windshield wiper sprayers that have little lites that you see from the front. He got red ones--looks like some an animal's eyes at night. I was thinking about getting blue ones-eMily is Bright Silver. The problem is you have to tap into the turn signal lights to get power--this way, they only light up at night when the regular lights are on, and the lights won't blink. RThe problem for me is how the @#$% do you get to WHERE the wiring is? Everything under the hood is shrouded. More importantly, what do youse think about how it would look? I had a Honda behind me the other night that had the blue lights--looked very cool. Hey, for me this would be a 'mod' !
If'n y'all want, you can email me at
glenn.beye@ny.frb.org
These 'lights' run about 30 bucks in case anyone wanted to know.
Also, California Dream (spoiler/running board folks) quoted me price for their spoiler: $279 painted and comes with installation video. I've been having problems here @da Fed with my email--using Lotus Notes and my "RRV bucket is corrupt', whatever that means. I cannot access work email, so if I don't respond it ain't my fault!
Regards,
Glenn/drpixel
it will come with mounting hardware, and very durable. i believe he will give lifetime warranty as well. its very easy to do. will run around $110. i jsut got mine in and will be putting in this weekend...
http://frealfso.frostburg.edu/cs1101f00/janjuao/far_away.MPG
http://frealfso.frostburg.edu/cs1101f00/janjuao/reflect.mpg
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this ones' real good
http://frealfso.frostburg.edu/cs1101f00/janjuao/300/misc/exhaust.MPG
1. What wood trim kit did you use and where did you get it, it looks great.
2. Where did you get the pedals from? They look cool but are they slippery when it is wet outside?
I had a leak in the rear passenger floor.
I looked around and found nothing. Just wet carpet.Was gonna take it to the dealer, but it didn't do it again. BUT, I time I was driving in the rain and I saw rain dripping from the enclosure for the tweet(door). I looked closely and it was coming from between the trim around the door and the trim around the body(when you open the door and are about to get in) I tried to make the trim as flush as possibly,haven't seen anything yet, but it hasn't rain much either.
AV:
How has using true dual helped the car. Like what benefits have you seen from it?
Location was decided by trial and error. It jusy plain sounded best in this position.
easy
If you turn the bass control down it removes most of the bass, but you can still here it. I just went out to my car to listen to some talk radio for ya and it sounded great.
No holes needed in cup holder. Bass has no problem traveling into cabin. I have the gain control turned almost all the way down. This unit is powerful. If the rear seats are down the bass is a little overpowering.
I must apologize. I just rechecked with my guy and he did exactly what easy mentioned. He tapped the line right at the factory amp input. Auto turn on feature being used.
I believe that this is the best price/performance
powered sub a person can get. This thing sounds better than most other systems I have heard. It compliments the factory system perfectly. I have two friends already looking to buy one for thier vehicals since hearing mine. Factory set up is good. Basslink addition is incredible! Recommend to all.
Fuzzy-Beach
I bought those pedals from Autozone. If you can't find any let me know I can buy here and ship them to you. They are aluminum. Actually beach my reason for buying them was to eliminate slipping on the pedals. There are like an old cheese grater. Absolutely no slip! Can't drive barefoot. As for the wood trim kit. Got that on ebay for $119.
http://jamonline.shutterfly.com/my/os.jsp?i=67b0de21b314a900e41b
sirharper: regarding service contract..I paid $1380 for top tier, but got 6 years, 70,000 miles. The way I drive (..average less than 8K a year. Since I got eMily, put on 8500 miles in first year..), even if I put same mileage on per year-59,000 miles! I'm a firm believer in Service contracts, though you're betting something will go wrong, the dealer is betting NOTHING will go wrong!
Apologies for off-topic photo album!
Doc
http://frealfso.frostburg.edu/cs1101f00/janjuao/reflect.mpg
i like that grill! i need to see it on your car man!
TM
That is one wicked sounding engine! How about some pictures of the true dual setup. I take it you ran two seperate pipes from the cats straight to the two mufflers at the rear (tips integrated).
Any clearance problems? Any heat transfer to the floorboard?
I wish I had that sound yesterday when I was going through the toll booth with my electronic passcard. A 3.2 L SHO tried to whip by me and I finnessed him. With that sound in his face, he would have been so psyched out! (ok, back to work)
I read this thread a lot as I like the 300M, even if I don't have one, I have just the base Concorde.
Anyway, since I only come to this thread once in a while it is a bit difficult to follow all the conversations.
It would be nice if you used a BB type web interface where different topics could be posted and replied to. You would link to it off the 300M club web page.
In case you guys are interested, it is easy to set up an Ezboard forum, and I believe it is for free. Check out the www.zx2.com forum to see an example.
rickgonz
i have been advised by both the lawyers and my insurance co. (my cousin is my rep.) that i should first try to resolve it myself w/o the attornies involved. supposedly theyre insurance co. will contact me tonight or tomorrow, in which i will then disscuss this with them.
on another plus side, do a search on they're insurance company (national casualty) and you'll find a bunch of lawsuits that have been filed on them already. theyll want to settle me quickly im sure).
so what do i get for recruting another dealer if he joins? (ahem.. *cough* t-shirt *cough*) lol j/k (or am i?)
seriously though, i think he'll join it, he'll be #9?
And, to clarify, I have been in the exact same situation. My Olds Aurora was rear ended at 65mph on the express way causing significant damage. I got the car back fixed to as new condition, and what made me most happy was that neither myself nor the person who hit me was seriously injured. It was an accident, just an accident.
http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi
I think townhall is ok, but there's no (poor) search or organization. I think most of us come here for each other and we put up with the simple format here. Edmunds is supposed to add features, but I don't know if they will ever materialize.
Anyone know when things will get better, or do you also agree with Rickgonz?
why the heck would i sue chrysler?
but since my posts are so fustrating, ill stop. just for you. (although i shouldnt be so worried about what someone who never posts on here has to say)
http://www.autonews.com/html/main/stories0625/cabforward625.htm
Lawsuits should be reserved for those instances where you've suffered real injury or loss, and the other party's insurance won't pay. Why put yourself or the other guy through the agony of going to court when it was a simple mistake?
Here's what you should insist on: Full payment for the cost of professional repairs, actual loss of value to the car (assuming there is any) after being repaired, medical costs you've incurred as the result of injuries, and compensation for any time lost from work. You should also make sure you get a comparable rental car provided while your 300M is out of commission.
I've been through this before and I understand your anger--I got whacked a few years ago by a driver who ran a stop sign and really smashed up my two-day-old Saab 9000 Turbo. But, for your own benefit and the benefit of the other guy or gal, you need to step back, take a breath, and try to be reasonable about this. Trust me--the litigation process in this type of situation is not fun and you will pay a price in terms of time, inconvenience and frustration if you needlessly go down this path. If you need a lawyer to get you through this process, by all means hire one. But, don't let your anger and frustration get the better of you--the overwhelming odds are that this can be resolved without having to go to war.
but okay, so much for my support group here, i can tell when im beat.
well av at least one person here understands my situation. thanks man. i was starting to get fustrated with edmunds as this is supposed to be my support group.
Being a used car manager for 7 years prior to taking the position I now have w/ Pentastar Service Equipment, I can assure you there will not be a significant difference in the trade in value of your car. The only visible signs your car will have that it has been hit is that any of the bolts holding panels on will have visible signs of being wrenched, i.e. paint scraped off them, and the under side of the trunk lid and any other panels r/r will be clear coated. The insides of all of the panels are not clear coated from the factory as they are cleared in the asembled position. There should be no over spray, or paint flaws from a reputable collision center. When I appraised cars even if I noticed that the car had been hit, as long as it drove fine it would not have an influence on the value of the car.
I wish you only the best of luck w/ the car but as for the law suit......
I also spoke with Borla's customer service department. They're sending the annular venturis, free of charge, which they claim will eliminate the 2400 rpm resonance. As mentioned elsewhere, there are two slip-in venturis, which they recommend you tack-weld into the pipes. I may hold off on installing them, pending my assessment of whether the resonance still bugs me with the Sound Barrier treatment.
Thanks to those who responded to my earlier inquiries regarding this problem.
a good friend of myne bout a car for 9 grand. good car. could never tell it was wrecked. we took it in to chrysler to trade it in a couple months later, and they told us it had been wrecked and the best they could do was 2800.
i am not concerened with wether or not anyone can tell it has be hit, im concered with when it comes time to trade it, and chrsler laughs at me.
this is only like the fifteenth car ive owned. i wish i new what i was doing.........