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Chrysler 300M

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Comments

  • easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    use a car pricing service--I believe edmunds offer it as well as some other sites---and be sure to check to see if they list rebates etc--if they dont include a rebate on the site, you should discount any know chrysler rebates from price from the site--I would think they could do at least $1000 better than that price--that rebate is a good one --$2500--Chrysler is really getting desperate to increase sales--I took the low financing at less than 1 percent for 5 full years--I figure its worth about a $5000 savings---I paid $28600 for a 32215 list and received no rebate as I took the financing instead---never settle for the first price they offer you---you're better to go in with a price your willing to pay after doing your research to find out their true cost of the car--then add about $400 to that figure to get an approximate reasonable price to pay--
  • avalanche165avalanche165 Member Posts: 558
    starting to gut the interior today, and i was just wondering...i put no some blad racing tires off my friends car yesterday and we wet down this huge paved parking lots, doing donuts and sidestops and stuff. much easier for him since he hand handle emergency brake. so i took mine apart today, and just an idea but couldn't we get a longer emergency brake cable from another chrysler vehicle, same diameter, and make a pulley to use a handle brake?
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    why are you abusing your nice M like that---just wears out the tires faster--and those men in blue might show up with all the noise goin on--

    speaking of donuts---you just made me hungry--its time for my donut run--see ya later

    Easyrider300M
  • 300mlover300mlover Member Posts: 132
    WOW, WOW, WOW!


    That's what I have been saying all day today as I drove my car. This Infinity Basslink is absolutely amazing! I cannot believe the amount of bass produced by this thing as small as it is. It produces better bas than I have heard from most sub/amp set ups. Wanna se some pics of it installed?

    http://public.fotki.com/cmc300m/my_300m/

    It sounds best in the corner right next to the factory amp. It also needs to be angled slightly towards the back. Look at pic 1 you can't even see it!!!

  • avalanche165avalanche165 Member Posts: 558
    they weren;t my tires or rims. old set a friend had laying around. and his dad's a cop, he was supervising us, gave me teh parking brake handle idea.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    $5,000 off MSRP is what I got on my car, but I only had a $2,000 rebate. Your car is about $1,000 less than loaded, but you didn't say what it had/didn't have. Go to www.carsdirect.com and get a quote. A "good" deal is $500 cheaper. The trick is finding out what the car cost the dealer and then offering them a reasonable profit. The invoice on that car is probably around $31,000. Subtract dealer holdback of 3% (about $1,000) and you get a dealer cost of $30,000 for the car. If you give them your $2,500 rebate then their "cost" is $27,500. Under this scenario their profit is about $900, or about 3%....which most will consider reasonable. I worked my butt off to get the dealer down to a $250 profit, but it's not easy to do.

    Now that you have a good starting price, don't let them shaft you on trade-ins, financing, service contracts or add-ons. Do plenty of research to determine what your trade-in is REALLY worth and hold out for it (or keep the car). Negotiate selling price and trade-in separately so you know what you're really getting. Contact your credit union or bank and other financing organizations like www.peoplefirst.com to get an idea of financing rates or even get pre-approved. I had two loans pre-approved when I went into buy my car. The dealer wouldn't beat what I already had in place. Also research service contracts in advance if you want one. A good place is www.warrantydirect.com. Go in armed to the gill with information and you'll help reduce the chance of getting shafted somewhere. Remember, these guys do this for a living. We buy cars only once every several years. They're better than us at it. Information and preparation helps level the playing field.

    For helpful tips visit www.carbuyingtips.com.

    You've made a great choice in the M. Keep us posted!

    -M
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Great news! Thanks for the pics!! Mine gets installed tomorrow afternoon. Your information will be VERY helpful!

    How did they hook it up? Did they run the wires off the amp or bring them from the stereo up front? Which speakers did they pirate the signal off of (if out of the amp). How are you going to get to the spare with part of that foot on the spare cover?

    Mike
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    timbotimbo-

    I agree with sdmike2- BE PREPARED. One other thing to remember- even though you're buying a brand new car, it's already one year old and has depreciated one year. So, while $5,000 might seem like a great deal, maybe it's not. I'd take a chance and wait for the 2002's to come out and see what happens then. I'm sure you'll still be able to locate a 2001 if there's no good deals on the 2002's.

    fastdriver
  • 300mlover300mlover Member Posts: 132
    Wires were brought from the wires coming out of the radio as to not effect output from factory amp to the factory speakers. One other thing. My installer tried to use that wiring diagram Av supplied and it is incorrect unfortunately. they wired it up so when I fade from front to back speakers it doesn't effect the sub at all. As for the spare..no problemo. We left the screw out of that foot you see on the spare cover. So it will be easy to get to.
  • sdmike2sdmike2 Member Posts: 2,909
    Thanks for the info. I guess the fading issue is why the basslink unit has plugs for 4 sets of wires, two front speaker outputs and two rear speaker outputs. That way it won't be impacted by the fader. I'll see what my guys want to do. If they want to run from the head unit I'll let them. It's a shame the infinity system doesn't have a subwoofer pre-amp and control like some other high-end units (like what I put in my mitsubishi).

    How did you decide on that location?

    -M
  • easyrider300measyrider300m Member Posts: 1,116
    if you turn the base cntrl on the equilizer way down, does it cut out most of the output from the sub---or is it still very bassey---I listen to talk and sport shows a lot and wouldnt want too much bass---do you find the bass to be too loud at times or are you happy with the system

    did the installer drill any holes in the cupholder area of the rear seat or does the bass enter the cabin fine without holes---or do you drop the rear seat--does dropping the rear seat increase the bass effect?

    I dont see why you cant just tap the outputs from the radio at the factory amp inputs---doesnt the amp have inputs direct from the head unit anyway-- wouldnt it be just as effective as hooking the sub direct to the head unit?

    now that you have tested the sub, do you feel it was worth the investment to install the sub or is factory setup good enough--one more thing---did you use the auto turn on feature or do you have an on off switch for the sub
  • drpixeldrpixel Member Posts: 256
    "..rumors of my death have been greatly exagerated"- Mark Twain. Been a while since I've posted here, but better late than never, I guess. Just wanted to say a fine howdy-doo to all our new members, and a tip o' me nuclear-powerd Mouse-a-matic© from the doctor to you all. congrat's to all the proud new own owners, too.
    I've been trying real hard to get out your membership packages as I get the the information I need to generate'em. Having typed that,to Haywood P., William R., and Jacqueline R. (members #125, 126, and 127) --your membership packages are in the mail!
    I have been ribbed from time to time because of my aversion to 'modifying' eMily--MY "M". Being a computer geek, computers are what I know--adding 'K&N--something', adding sub-woofers, or a hood scoop (Avalanche) is not something for me. However, I recently helped my daughter's boyfriend 'rice up' his Honda Civic by installing --IMVHO, these cool looking windshield wiper sprayers that have little lites that you see from the front. He got red ones--looks like some an animal's eyes at night. I was thinking about getting blue ones-eMily is Bright Silver. The problem is you have to tap into the turn signal lights to get power--this way, they only light up at night when the regular lights are on, and the lights won't blink. RThe problem for me is how the @#$% do you get to WHERE the wiring is? Everything under the hood is shrouded. More importantly, what do youse think about how it would look? I had a Honda behind me the other night that had the blue lights--looked very cool. Hey, for me this would be a 'mod' !
    If'n y'all want, you can email me at
    glenn.beye@ny.frb.org
    These 'lights' run about 30 bucks in case anyone wanted to know.
    Also, California Dream (spoiler/running board folks) quoted me price for their spoiler: $279 painted and comes with installation video. I've been having problems here @da Fed with my email--using Lotus Notes and my "RRV bucket is corrupt', whatever that means. I cannot access work email, so if I don't respond it ain't my fault!

    Regards,
    Glenn/drpixel
  • avalanche165avalanche165 Member Posts: 558
    i've seen those, there a rice thing but i think they would look kinda cool. i was thinking about white ones. blue on silver would look sweet. what you should do is just get like 14-16 gauge wire, and thermal wrap it, then run right through the grommet. run it through the hole in the firewall to get to your cabin. i can help you out with some pics if u want. my O gauge red wire...runs right through it, all the way from battery to cap. its easy dont wry about it
  • avalanche165avalanche165 Member Posts: 558
    finally got it done guys!


    image


    it will come with mounting hardware, and very durable. i believe he will give lifetime warranty as well. its very easy to do. will run around $110. i jsut got mine in and will be putting in this weekend...

  • avalanche165avalanche165 Member Posts: 558
  • fuzzywuzzyfuzzywuzzy Member Posts: 958
    It's the end of June, & most of July in South Fl it rains every day in the afternoon. I mean RAINS. Heavy down poors, hail, lighting, wind, etc etc. Anyway, since this weather has been happing, I seem to have a leak somwhere on the drivers side. It's only under the floormat on the driver's side. The passanger side, & rear are dry. Under each seat is dry. The spare tire well is dry, as is the whole trunk. I have dynamat under the carpet, so I dought it's comming from the floor. It's not from the AC, because the car sat for 2 days in my driveway, & didn't move. The carpet was dry when I parked, & wet when I checked it 2 days later. Since i'm out of warranty, the dealer wants $110 for a leak test! My Extended warranty doesn't Cover water leaks from things like windshields, or body seams. Only covers it if it turns out to be an AC problem, which it is not. I don't think it's the windsheild beacuse nothing else is wet, just the drivers side carpet. The dash & surounding carpet is dry. The only think I can think of is the grommet on the firewall where I ran my 4gauge power wire. Although it's been over a year that been in, & I never had leaks before. Still I want to seal this hols a little better. What can I use to seal it? Also any ideas on where else water might be comming in from?
  • avalanche165avalanche165 Member Posts: 558
    for those who need to hear what a true dual setup with mufflers on each end sounds like:


    http://frealfso.frostburg.edu/cs1101f00/janjuao/300/misc/exhaust.MPG

  • avalanche165avalanche165 Member Posts: 558
    fuzzy spray some expanding foam around your grommet, and in the hole as well. thats a good place for water leak, but water should reall be getting to that area anyway. so u might wanna check above that. if its coming from the grommet, then theres somewhere inthe hood where its coming in. check the wheel well too, i've heard about leaks there too. and one more thing, the door. the front of the door, lower bottom, check for dents and stuff. if its dented thats like a tunnel for water to come in....
  • fuzzywuzzyfuzzywuzzy Member Posts: 958
    Where did you get your pedals? I can't find any that fit the accelerator.
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    First of all, great pics. Questions:

    1. What wood trim kit did you use and where did you get it, it looks great.
    2. Where did you get the pedals from? They look cool but are they slippery when it is wet outside?
  • beach15beach15 Member Posts: 1,305
    Now that's what I'm talking about!!! I've heard some of the other dual exhaust mods on here, Hujo and the like, and while they were nice, there is no comparison to the thraoty growl of your car. Watching your little clip reminded me exactly what it is like to ride with my wife in her M. Of course, ours doesn't sound near as meaty (like any 300 should) but when she moves, boy does that engine roar just like yours. Now, how was yours done and what parts did you use? Not that I'd ever really do it, just curious.
  • traleytraley Member Posts: 64
    Fuzzy:
    I had a leak in the rear passenger floor.
    I looked around and found nothing. Just wet carpet.Was gonna take it to the dealer, but it didn't do it again. BUT, I time I was driving in the rain and I saw rain dripping from the enclosure for the tweet(door). I looked closely and it was coming from between the trim around the door and the trim around the body(when you open the door and are about to get in) I tried to make the trim as flush as possibly,haven't seen anything yet, but it hasn't rain much either.

    AV:
    How has using true dual helped the car. Like what benefits have you seen from it?
  • 300mlover300mlover Member Posts: 132
    sdmike
    Location was decided by trial and error. It jusy plain sounded best in this position.

    easy
    If you turn the bass control down it removes most of the bass, but you can still here it. I just went out to my car to listen to some talk radio for ya and it sounded great.
    No holes needed in cup holder. Bass has no problem traveling into cabin. I have the gain control turned almost all the way down. This unit is powerful. If the rear seats are down the bass is a little overpowering.
    I must apologize. I just rechecked with my guy and he did exactly what easy mentioned. He tapped the line right at the factory amp input. Auto turn on feature being used.
    I believe that this is the best price/performance
    powered sub a person can get. This thing sounds better than most other systems I have heard. It compliments the factory system perfectly. I have two friends already looking to buy one for thier vehicals since hearing mine. Factory set up is good. Basslink addition is incredible! Recommend to all.
    Fuzzy-Beach
    I bought those pedals from Autozone. If you can't find any let me know I can buy here and ship them to you. They are aluminum. Actually beach my reason for buying them was to eliminate slipping on the pedals. There are like an old cheese grater. Absolutely no slip! Can't drive barefoot. As for the wood trim kit. Got that on ebay for $119.
  • tictac3tictac3 Member Posts: 78
    I did not YET order the basslink. Waited to see if any problems from ebay. See post 5155.
  • drpixeldrpixel Member Posts: 256
    The below link takes you to a mini-album...some guy modelling a shirt, his 300m and images I created working with some new software.


    http://jamonline.shutterfly.com/my/os.jsp?i=67b0de21b314a900e41b


    sirharper: regarding service contract..I paid $1380 for top tier, but got 6 years, 70,000 miles. The way I drive (..average less than 8K a year. Since I got eMily, put on 8500 miles in first year..), even if I put same mileage on per year-59,000 miles! I'm a firm believer in Service contracts, though you're betting something will go wrong, the dealer is betting NOTHING will go wrong!

    Apologies for off-topic photo album!

    Doc

  • avalanche165avalanche165 Member Posts: 558
    look at the reflecting vids, they have better sounds, it is real deep and it growls. i don't like the hujo design, i don't really see where you can benefit. thats why i went with this. i just have stainless 2.75" pipes al the way from the cats back. got rid of all those mufflers, there was 3 to begin with. and i have DTM predator mufflers on each pipe on the end now. those tips are part of the muffler. 2.75" in, 3" out. it makes a real nice sound and performance is incredible...
  • avalanche165avalanche165 Member Posts: 558
    performance was unreal. i couldn't believe how much was gained. coupled with exhaust, i think i got over 15hp. it really does make a huge difference. its far less restrictive than stock. if u need some info i'll take some good under body pics and everything....
  • avalanche165avalanche165 Member Posts: 558
    any comments? when i put it on and post pics you guys will get a better idea of how awesome this will look........
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    well, i have good news and bad news. the good news is all i have is some whiplash, so im not to hurt. the bad news is all i have is some whiplash, so thats not alot of help with a lawsuit, but im gonna do what i can!

    i like that grill! i need to see it on your car man!
  • fuzzywuzzyfuzzywuzzy Member Posts: 958
    Is it loud outside, as well as inside? Can you here it from inside the car, with nothing else on. That was main concern with my 300M. I had a bad experience with a truck I put a flowmaster on. It was so load inside the truck it drowned out my stereo, & conversation.
  • avalanche165avalanche165 Member Posts: 558
    its loud on the outside, with windows down its awesome, you can still hear stereo fine. windows up its kinda loud, but i haev tons of sound depthning. even w/o it it will not be that loud on the inside. teh car is very well padded in my opinion. i'll make a short clip on inside noise.
  • avalanche165avalanche165 Member Posts: 558
    phases! yae not this weekend, next weekend it will probably be in, so i'll put it on, take mucha mucha pics and see what you think. i know you guys are gonna love it, it will enhance the appearance and add to teh aggressive stance. best part is you don't have to take off old grille, just put this one over it. you can if u want tho. and u saw the color of it naturally, but u can also paint it very very easily. spray paint will do awesome.
  • traleytraley Member Posts: 64
    Some underbody pics would be great. I JUST walked in from putting sound deadening in the cabin of the car. I will do the doors on Sunday. I put my Plat 4 sparkies in last night and picked up my K&N air filter this morning and put it in. Definite difference in performance. PLUS, one of my sparkies (original) must've been dropped. Cuz the tip was bent. I will be doing the exhaust in the next week or so.

    TM
  • silverbullet4silverbullet4 Member Posts: 449
    I listened with headphones. Over and over, again.
    That is one wicked sounding engine! How about some pictures of the true dual setup. I take it you ran two seperate pipes from the cats straight to the two mufflers at the rear (tips integrated).
    Any clearance problems? Any heat transfer to the floorboard?
    I wish I had that sound yesterday when I was going through the toll booth with my electronic passcard. A 3.2 L SHO tried to whip by me and I finnessed him. With that sound in his face, he would have been so psyched out! (ok, back to work)
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    man i wish i could make clip of my exhaust sound. its awesome...
  • rickgonzrickgonz Member Posts: 87
    Hello 300M folks,
    I read this thread a lot as I like the 300M, even if I don't have one, I have just the base Concorde.

    Anyway, since I only come to this thread once in a while it is a bit difficult to follow all the conversations.
    It would be nice if you used a BB type web interface where different topics could be posted and replied to. You would link to it off the 300M club web page.

    In case you guys are interested, it is easy to set up an Ezboard forum, and I believe it is for free. Check out the www.zx2.com forum to see an example.

    rickgonz
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    ok i've spoken with several attornys. i've narrowed my choices down to two. just about all of them have told me the same thing. i have a strong case. i have whiplash, and backpains. i have a 35 thosand dollar car which has now lost a dollar amount in value do to the wreck. i have a 'appointment' with chrysler on monday to discuss it all. they're gonna give me a written statement on how much that wreck has hurt the value of my car. i have "pain and suffering" due to haveing a hard time sleeping, amongst other activities. i have 'spousal stress' due to the fact that we put most all we own into this car and now this. i have documents from the TMC on post verifing my injuys, medications, and what not. its gonna get real ugly.

    i have been advised by both the lawyers and my insurance co. (my cousin is my rep.) that i should first try to resolve it myself w/o the attornies involved. supposedly theyre insurance co. will contact me tonight or tomorrow, in which i will then disscuss this with them.

    on another plus side, do a search on they're insurance company (national casualty) and you'll find a bunch of lawsuits that have been filed on them already. theyll want to settle me quickly im sure).
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    one more thing, rogor, when i went to the dealer today he (the big man in charge)had your application sitting on his desk. i asked him about it and he said himself and his superiours have been looking into it, he sounded quite positive about it.

    so what do i get for recruting another dealer if he joins? (ahem.. *cough* t-shirt *cough*) lol j/k (or am i?)

    seriously though, i think he'll join it, he'll be #9?
  • thill381thill381 Member Posts: 64
    I hate to post this, but I have to ask... WHY? Trying to skip over you frustrating posts I think I did see that you posted there was around $4,000 worth of damage to your car, hardly justifying "a loss in value". Are you going to sue DC for the $9,000 loss in value our M's have during the first year of owner ship? If you read your last post regarding all this suing and attorneys I think maybe you will realize how bad you sound. Nobody was seriously injured, there was no loss of unreplacable property, so why sue? It was an accident. Be happy you have what you do and that your car will be returned to you in the condition in which it was before the accident, albeit with a little inconvienence to you, but a reputable body shop will return the car to you in "as new" condition. Once again I am sorry to post this, but I'm sick of everyone suing everyone else.

    And, to clarify, I have been in the exact same situation. My Olds Aurora was rear ended at 65mph on the express way causing significant damage. I got the car back fixed to as new condition, and what made me most happy was that neither myself nor the person who hit me was seriously injured. It was an accident, just an accident.
  • 99_300m_ric_va99_300m_ric_va Member Posts: 377
    Yeah, rickgonz, I agree. I would like to see activity move to another format like ezboard or ultimate bulletin board (ubb). I've suggested both of these formats as possible Club Chats or open public chats. Our Dodge Intrepid counterparts have a pretty active site at this address. Some of them talk on Edmunds, but very rarely.


    http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi


    I think townhall is ok, but there's no (poor) search or organization. I think most of us come here for each other and we put up with the simple format here. Edmunds is supposed to add features, but I don't know if they will ever materialize.


    Anyone know when things will get better, or do you also agree with Rickgonz?

  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    im not suing DC. listen to me. cars lose value once they're wrecked. i think it is a resonable request that they pay me the dollar amound i have lost due to it. now, when i go to trade it in, im only gonna get so much money for my M. is it unreasonable to ask to be reimbursed for what i've lost??

    why the heck would i sue chrysler?

    but since my posts are so fustrating, ill stop. just for you. (although i shouldnt be so worried about what someone who never posts on here has to say)
  • 99_300m_ric_va99_300m_ric_va Member Posts: 377
  • mboomgarden1mboomgarden1 Member Posts: 49
    As a litigation lawyer who's been practicing for twenty years, I don't see the point in filing a lawsuit over such a minor incident. Having been involved in accidents before, if the total repair estimate is $4,000, it was a pretty damned minor collision. Feeling a little sore? Take some ibuprofen. Problems with your spouse? See a marriage counselor--if getting run into has jeopardized your marriage, it was in trouble before.

    Lawsuits should be reserved for those instances where you've suffered real injury or loss, and the other party's insurance won't pay. Why put yourself or the other guy through the agony of going to court when it was a simple mistake?

    Here's what you should insist on: Full payment for the cost of professional repairs, actual loss of value to the car (assuming there is any) after being repaired, medical costs you've incurred as the result of injuries, and compensation for any time lost from work. You should also make sure you get a comparable rental car provided while your 300M is out of commission.

    I've been through this before and I understand your anger--I got whacked a few years ago by a driver who ran a stop sign and really smashed up my two-day-old Saab 9000 Turbo. But, for your own benefit and the benefit of the other guy or gal, you need to step back, take a breath, and try to be reasonable about this. Trust me--the litigation process in this type of situation is not fun and you will pay a price in terms of time, inconvenience and frustration if you needlessly go down this path. If you need a lawyer to get you through this process, by all means hire one. But, don't let your anger and frustration get the better of you--the overwhelming odds are that this can be resolved without having to go to war.
  • avalanche165avalanche165 Member Posts: 558
    phase, i'm with you all the way. i don't even think of buying a used car thats been in a wreck. so obviously the cars' value goes down a lot. its more than reasonable to get that reimbursment for loss of value. and thill381, he's not suing because someone spilled poo on him, he's suing for legit reasons.
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    i doubt im even suing anyone. spouse problems, i didnt say that. its called leverage to get what im owed. all im going for is what u mentioned in your last paragraph, in fact not even that much. i expect this to be settled w/o even hiring a lawyer.

    but okay, so much for my support group here, i can tell when im beat.
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    thank you. bought time someone understood where im coming from. im not asking for anything unreasonable. i doubt it'll even make it to a laywer, and if it does, surely not to court. but if need be...

    well av at least one person here understands my situation. thanks man. i was starting to get fustrated with edmunds as this is supposed to be my support group.
  • thill381thill381 Member Posts: 64
    Once again, this is in no way an attack on you. Your post in the past have been insightful, as well as helpful. It just seems that in this day and age that everyone wants to sue everyone else, and merely for personal monetary advancement, not for true loss or injury.

    Being a used car manager for 7 years prior to taking the position I now have w/ Pentastar Service Equipment, I can assure you there will not be a significant difference in the trade in value of your car. The only visible signs your car will have that it has been hit is that any of the bolts holding panels on will have visible signs of being wrenched, i.e. paint scraped off them, and the under side of the trunk lid and any other panels r/r will be clear coated. The insides of all of the panels are not clear coated from the factory as they are cleared in the asembled position. There should be no over spray, or paint flaws from a reputable collision center. When I appraised cars even if I noticed that the car had been hit, as long as it drove fine it would not have an influence on the value of the car.

    I wish you only the best of luck w/ the car but as for the law suit......
  • mboomgarden1mboomgarden1 Member Posts: 49
    I had the Ziebart Sound Barrier product applied today and it does help with the 2400 rpm resonance from the Borla. My seat-of-the-pants estimate is that it cut down on the exhaust resonance in the passenger compartment by 40-50%. I haven't taken it for a long drive yet, but it also perceptibly reduces the noise level over tar strips and other surface irregularities.

    I also spoke with Borla's customer service department. They're sending the annular venturis, free of charge, which they claim will eliminate the 2400 rpm resonance. As mentioned elsewhere, there are two slip-in venturis, which they recommend you tack-weld into the pipes. I may hold off on installing them, pending my assessment of whether the resonance still bugs me with the Sound Barrier treatment.

    Thanks to those who responded to my earlier inquiries regarding this problem.
  • phases78phases78 Member Posts: 471
    the last couple times ive tried to trade in a cars that had been wrecked i was offed an amazingly low amount. for example..

    a good friend of myne bout a car for 9 grand. good car. could never tell it was wrecked. we took it in to chrysler to trade it in a couple months later, and they told us it had been wrecked and the best they could do was 2800.

    i am not concerened with wether or not anyone can tell it has be hit, im concered with when it comes time to trade it, and chrsler laughs at me.

    this is only like the fifteenth car ive owned. i wish i new what i was doing.........
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