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Comments
As you may know I had a small rattle coming from my overhead computer console. I figured a loose connector somewhere. Today I removed the front screw and dropped down the front of the unit. I couldn't figure out how to take the whole unit down because I didn't find any more screws up towards the controls, and I didn't feel any obvious clips on the sides. Anyway, I felt around to see if there was anything up there that might be rattling. No luck. There felt like there was a couple of wires and one or more encased units. Nothing dangling. Rats. Well, when I put it back together I discovered that my temperature guage always reads a pleasant 67 degrees (which wouldn't be bad, except it's about 80 here). Consequently, the automatic climate control was trying to heat my already 80 degree interior. Everything else seems to work, including the compass and the other displays/controls.
I think I pulled a wire loose but I'm not sure. Anyone know how to drop the unit down all the way so I can see what the heck I'm doing? Anyone know if there is a single wire connecting the external thermometer to the computer that I might have disconnected?
Mucho Gracias in advance.
Mike
In talking to them they mentioned that all the Chrysler dealers were going to carry, and install the parts for the Special back in 2000, but their legal department killed the idea because of warranty issues. I talked to them about the club, and service tech gave me some names of some of the specialty guys in the city to contact about the gears and the computer reprograming. As I get infromation I will pass it on. I took some pictures of the 2002's for those of you who have not seen them. The new grill does kind of grow on you.
-M
M
I also noticed that my sandstone leather interior was starting to look dirty on the drivers seat( I must start washing my clothes) and as I have not got into the Zaino thing because of cost here in Canada, I found a leather treatment from Mothers California Gold and it works great. It does not leave that phoney glossy look that you get with other products. It looks like it just came from the factory. I also used the Mothers clearcoat treatment and after two coats I used the Mothers wax. It really looks great. I know I will hear from the Zaino crowd, but this works for me
-M
Otto, any idea which of the wiring harnesses up there the temp sensor comes in on? My guess is the big plug that's away from the controls. The others look like plugs for the sunroof controls and the light bulbs. Is there anything inside the big black module up there that I might be able to check? Any other suggestions? Since it didn't stop working until I pulled the console the first time my guess is that the problem is in the console. not the sensor unit.
ANyone with suggestions? I try to avoide dealers.
-M
Fastdriver sold his M and got a red Acura CL Type S. Both daddy and baby are doing well.
Still have the temperature sensor problem. Sheesh. Looks like 5* time.
Ok, I guess my next test is to go see if their is an issue on the sensor side. Anyone know where the external temperature sensor is?
-M
Granted, I'd like to see our ranks swell to the hundreds like the PT Cruiser CLub has, but I prefer that we move along, incresing in numbers gradually, rather than a flood gate opening.
Look at the people whom you and I and many others have met here on this forum. Like many others, it was my initial contact with this forum (..actually a much earlier forum...but the same place..) that helped me decide to buy eMily. Look how far we've come, Rick. From 10 members to 165 in only a few short months--not to bad for a small car club, right?
We've had TWO club events and third will ocurr tomorrow in sunny Wall Township, Wall, New Jersey; and I cannot wait to meet my fellow 300m'ers. Watch our web site over the next week or so as a sub-site goes up with pictures and text, and maybe some streaming video/avi file of the festivities.
I know you'd like us to have more members as would many others, ..so do I; but all things in their time, my friend. As we continue to grow as a club -- improving our web site, adding to what we have to offer our members as well as non-members, gradually increasing our membership -- we can only get better. I look forward to the day when out ranks WILL be counted -- not by hundreds -- but by legions; until that time grow with us member #12--the best is yet to come.
(I will now step down off of my pulpit in my capacity as the Right Reverend Doctor Billy Joe Pixel--can I have an AMEN, my brothers and sisters?.....)
Doc
mikeyjohn.-the new turn signal mirrors do not light up the mirror itself ,the outer case has a bulb and lens on it. So even if you left your signal on you would not be able to see the light flash .
*grumble*
*grumble*
As far as cleaning the leather, I just use saddle soap.
Igor
Now, here is something strange. There are four wires or bundles connected to the positive terminal at the front of the M. Two of them are large battery cables (one on each side of the little junction), and two appear to be power cables or harnesses that I'm sure go to various accessories and computers. I disconnected three of them when I disconnected my battery...all but the one that ran directly to the positive terminal of the battery. Because nothing else was connected to it (the other 3 wires), nothing on the car had power. The remotes, the clocks, the stereo, ignition, etc. Nothing. Now, when I hooked the battery back up after 3 hours a couple of things happened. First, the car wouldn't give a hint of ignition for the first minute after hooking the battery back up. I though, oh crap, I killed the starter or something. After about a minute and about 10 turns of the key it started right up. Strange.
I was totally prepared to have to re-set everything, so I started with the clocks. After that I went for the radio stations. Much to my surprise, THEY KEPT THEIR SETTINGS! How is this possible? The clock in the radio had been dead and needed to be re-set, and nothing was connected to the battery (as best as I could tell). Yet it kept the memory. On one hand it's cool, but on the other hand, it makes me wonder that if the radio somehow had some power to it, maybe I wasn't able to reset my master computer like I had intended. Anyone have a similar experience? Did I miss a connection somewhere? I'd like to think that my computer has a virgin brain ready to be trained again with the dualies, K&N, +4 plugs. etc.
Any ideas?
BTW, I've never understood why there hasn't been a 150 mph speedometer for the 300M all along and why they're now only putting one in the Special. Seems to me it should have been part of the PHP/PHG group. Have they ever put that speedo in the export models?
Here's some info about price changes -
I had read somewhere that DC would be changing the sound system options in an effort to reduce costs across the product line and that is confirmed by the fact that the standard system for the 300M is CD-only, without the cassette that was standard until 2002. If you want the cassette option it is an additional $100.00. Another interesting change is the increase in the cost of the Luxury Group package - $920.00 vs. $520.00. It appears that DC is including the cost of the full size spare in the Luxury Group. The chrome wheel spare will bump up the cost to $1050.00. The cost for the LG, subtracting the cost of the spare, is $670.00. That increase, over the previous $520.00, probably reflects the addition of the tire pressure monitoring system.
Comparing a specific configuration for both model years, including the extra $100.00 for the same sound system, the MSRP difference between 2002 and 2001 is $1050.00 with the 2002 being the lower price. The difference for base MSRP is $1300.00.
2000 300M Service Manual, pp. 8W-80-56, 57:
Power Amplifier C1 (white):
01------06
07------12
01 - 18 LG/VT Amplified Left Door Speaker (+)
02 - 18 LB/RD Amplified Right Door Speaker (+)
03 - 18 YL/RD Amplified Left Door Sail Speaker (+)
04 - 18 OR/RD Amplified Right Door Sail Speaker (+)
05 - 18 WT/VT Amplified Low Left Rear Speaker (+) *
06 - 18 TN/VT Amplified Low Right Rear Speaker (+) *
07 - 18 LG/BK Amplified Left Door Speaker (-)
08 - 18 LB/BK Amplified Right Door Speaker (-)
09 - 18 YL/BK Amplified Left Door Sail Speaker (-)
10 - 18 OR/BK Amplified Right Door Sail Speaker (-)
11 - 18 WT/DG Amplified Low Left Rear Speaker (-) *
12 - 18 TN/DG Amplified Low Right Rear Speaker (-) *
* Premium II Audio
Power Amplifier C2 (white):
01-----------11
12-----------22
(pins 3-10, 14-21 are offset)
01 - 16 RD/WT Fused B(+)
02 - 16 BK/LG Ground
03 - 20 DG/RD Radio 12v Output (live when radio is on)
04 - 18 VT Right Front Speaker (+)
05 - 18 DG Left Front Speaker (+)
06 - 18 DB/WT Right Rear Speaker (+)
07 - 18 BR/YL Left Rear Speaker (+)
08 -
09 - 18 PK/RD Amplified Center Instrument Panel Speaker (+)
10 - 18 WT/RD Amplified High Left Rear Speaker (+)
11 - 18 TN/RD Amplified High Right Rear Speaker (+)
12 - 16 RD Fused B(+)
13 - 16 BK/LG Ground
14 -
15 - 18 DB/RD Right Front Speaker (-)
16 - 18 BR/RD Left Front Speaker (-)
17 - 18 DB/OR Right Rear Speaker (-)
18 - 18 BR/LB Left Rear Speaker (-)
19 -
20 - 18 PK/BK Amplified Center Instrument Panel Speaker (-)
21 - 18 WT/BK Amplified High Left Rear Speaker (-)
22 - 18 TN/BK Amplified High Right Rear Speaker (-)
(pins 4-7, 15-18 are signal level input)
Service Manual, pp. 8F-3, 8W-90-18:
The Midline/Infinity I amp is located in the right front cowl panel next to the HVAC unit and recirculation air motor (above and in front of the right foot of the front seat passenger).
The Infinity II amp location is located beneath the trunk liner covering the right quarter inner panel (behind the passenger rear wheel well inside the trunk).
RADIO PINOUTS
2000 300M Service Manual, pp. 8F-4, 8W-80-60:
Radio C1 (black):
7-------1
(tab on top)
1 - 20 DG/RD Radio 12V Output
2 - 18 BR/YL Left Rear Speaker (+)
3 - 18 DB/WT Right Rear Speaker (+)
4 - 18 DG Left Front Speaker (+)
5 - 18 VT Right Front Speaker (+)
6 - 18 BR/LB Left Rear Speaker (-)
7 - 18 DB/OR Right Rear Speaker (-)
Radio C2 (gray):
7-------1
(tab on top)
1 - (Radio Mute ?)
2 - 18 BR/RD Left Front Speaker (-)
3 - 18 DB/RD Right Front Speaker (-)
4 - 20 YL/BK Day Brightness Sense (Head/Park marker lamps)
5 - 20 OR Panel Lamps Driver (Dimmer)
6 - 20 RD Fused Ignition Switch Output (RUN-ACC)
7 - 20 PK Fused B(+) (Memory)
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=9486000&p=32457836&f=0
There are no special hookups for subwoofers, etc. You'll have to tap into the correct wires. Currently I have the line level stereo outputs going into the Basslink's speaker level inputs. Here is my installation, I may turn it around so it faces back:
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1280646&a=13687151&f=0
6
Stock Wheel/Tire and Gears
Tire Size = 225/55/17
225mm = 8.85 inches
X .55 =4.87 inches
Diameter = 2(4.87)+17 = 26.74inches
Circumference (in inches)= PI*26.74=83.976 inches
Circumference (in feet) = 83.976 / 12 = 6.998 ft
Stock RPM analysis at 60mph
60mph=5280 feet per minute
Tire Rotations Per Minute = 5280/6.998 = 754.50
Engine RPM = 2.52 * 754.50 = 1901.34 rpm @ 60 MPH
2002 Special Wheel/Tire and Gears
Tire Size = 245/45/18
245mm = 9.64 inches
X .45 =4.34 inches
Diameter = 2(4.34)+18 = 26.68inches
Circumference (in inches)= PI*26.68=83.778 inches
Circumference (in feet) = 83.778 / 12 = 6.981 ft
Special RPM analysis at 60mph
60mph=5280 feet per minute
Tire Rotations Per Minute = 5280/6.981 = 756.33
Engine RPM = 2.68 * 756.33 = 2026.96 rpm @ 60 MPH
Is this logical, or did I mess up somewhere??