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Comments
What happened is that he (or your wife) pulled the belt all the way out, whereupon it goes in non-automatic, "retract-only" mode. That's a safety featuer used when securing infant seats. All US seat belts in he past decade or so have this feature.
What I don't get is why she had to cut the belt, rather than push the release button and release the silly thing? Either the belt was twised in such a way that the buckle wasn't accessible -- can happen in the way back, but not in the 2nd row captain's chairs -- or she panicked. Good thing they got the kid out.
I don't think there's a problem with the belt design or mechanism.
As far as valve stem seals, common problem on many cars, but haven't heard about problems with the 3.0 v6....
-Mathias
2001 62,000 miles any others besides us 5 I think
I really appreciate your comment. Would you please be more specific. Can you provide any realiable source where I can confirm your comment? My van (03, 18000Km) has the same problem. I took it to my dealer and left their overnight. Two top technicians in the dealership heard the noise and they don't know what it is. They claimed that they have never seen such engine noise problem before.
deepan, I really appreciate your help. If I can get same commnet from Toyota techical support department, I will suggest that Toyota should put this "engine noise" and "transmission lagging" features on their car specification cause some customers like me don't like that kind of noise. I will definitely ask for my money back.
thank you and looking forward to hearing from you.
R
The only thing that is a bit specific to the sienna (3.0 v6) engine is that it doesnt take abuse very well. maintenance is a must. do the regular oil chnages and fluid changes and you should be fine. The early ones had PCV issues but 01 onwards the clearance was increased.
My van has the same noise as yours. I would like to know what you found out.
Thanks
R
1) change the battery (is this valid? can it be this simple?
2) Change the A/F ratio sensor (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Here it mentions Bank 1 Sesor 1 being on the back, firewall side and requiring a special tool to replace (what kind of tool)?
This seems to be different depending on year and size engine. Is this correct?
I called the parts department and they mentioned two different parts. 89467-41030 and 89467-41040. They said P1130 refers to 89467-41040 and is located in the front, which contradicts what I have been reading. I'm assuming is due to being a 2001 and not a 2000 sienna.
Thanks for you help! I don't want to get the wrong sensor if it can be avoided.
Thanks!
Jeff
Thanks in advance...
You might want to call a local dealership...Toyota's web site indicates you can contact the Toyota Materials Distribution Center 1-800-622-2033 for documentation. You may be able to find something like this on EBay or from a store dealing with owner's manuals for vehicles.
I'm not sure what will be the least expensive route to an owner's manual. Good luck.
Also found there are metal "shields" in the overhead lights on my 2000. Simply removing them by snapping off the plastic light cover and popping out the thin metal plate attached to it (with a small hole in it to let the light through) greatly increased interior lighting. Sorta made a spotlight like a floodlight.
The special tool you question accomodates the wire that comes out of the sensor. It makes R&R easier, but a standard wrench will work.
Thanks,
Kendra
Things to check:
1 the warrenty on the c.c. may be up to 80,000 miles on a 2001.
2 a bad c.c. will smell like rotten eggs all the time.
3 did your car fail the emmisions air test? how the mpg?
4 get the CEL code from your dealership and then contact AUTOZONE, give them the code number and ask for the description for your code. I think you know there are several hundred codes for all types of car problems.
5 that price sounds very high find out from AUTOZONE how much a new c.c costs.
If you need it you need it the code will tell. Good luck and try to update us if you can.
We have an extended warrenty which covers EVERYTHING and is up at 100,000 miles. They just replaced the canister about a month ago so I'm not sure if that's helped in the demise of the c.c. I'm taking it today to see if it will pass inspection...it's not due until next month. I haven't noticed any "rotten egg" smell
though...that may be a good thing. We're going to check on the air flow regulator as well since they just replaced the air filter perhaps that might be something as well. I did phone an auto parts store yesterday(it wasn't Autozone) and the man told me there isn't a code "just for a c.c." I'm going to do some more checking on all these codes. I'm not so sure it's a good thing that cars have gotten so technical! Thank you so much for your advice. We're going to check it all out.
And hopefully get it all resolved before my warrenty expires. I don't suppose there's anyway to get the light to come back on faster? It's frustrating, the tech says the c.c. is bad but yet the light doesn't come back on!
Again thanks and I'll update!
Kendra
Did you ever fix your problem? I have the same Check Engine Light on my 2001 Sienna, and replaced the 89467-41040 with a Bosch oxygen sensor, which, of course, did not fix the problem. Today I found out that the auto parts store has been selling me oxygen sensors instead of the A/F ratio sensor replacement. That 89467-41040 part is very hard to find around here.
jtm
I have a 1999 Sienna XLE that has been making a clunking sound when I apply the brakes for over two years. When it first started, the dealer said the brakes work fine and they didn't know what was causing the noise. The brakes may be safe but it is annoying, plus whenever someone who is not used to my van rides with me, they worry about my brakes going out! From scanning past posts I see that this is not an unusual problem. Another source I read suggested changing the brake return springs. Has anyone sucessfully fixed this problem?
AND 2) strut mount tower probably needs replacing
I had not noticed transm. slipping when driving.
I took to dealer because: - other shop had looked at ball joints and struts and couldn't ID the source of the sound, - and because of occasional excess vibration at 65 mi+
Trying to decide: Trust the dealer and $3100 parts and labor for remanufactured transmission, OR get a second opinion and let an independent do it for less?
The transmission? Do that as a last resort. Fix everything else that's broken, and see if the sound disappears. My guess is it will. There is an extended warranty on transmissions, much like the sludge/gel warranty on your engine, but it goes to 8 years/100k miles or something. Search this thread for more information. If they'll give you a free transmission, do that FIRST :-)
That's the downside of going to an independent. You lose the goodwill the dealer *might* throw your way if you're a valued customer. The local dealer where I live has such a foul reputation that I have all my work (such as it is, 03 with 36k) done at an indy shop I've been going to for years. They're good, and they also work on my other cars...
Good luck, and let us know.
-Mathias.
More info if you're still there:
Re: waiting on the transmission: the dealer said he pulled the pan or cover and it looked bad and feels it's unsafe to drive. Do you still think I should wait or get 2nd opinion?
More info: I had the brakes (which is another saga) adjusted at an independant shop, got on the freeway, and the vibration hit. Pulled over twice due to it, then vibe went away, but I also stayed under at 65 mi.. Drove to dealer, told about the intermittent vibration and the rattle. They drove and first said didn't notice anything, then drove again, looked at tranny and said that and the strut mount are the prob.
I guess I'm answering my own question: if I'm this unsure I should at least take it to another mechanic for a second opinion!
Bingo.
Ask around, you need a good shop.
Maybe check the "Mechan-X Files" on Click&Clack's Car Talk website. That's about the only resource I know of other than just asking people.
I'd give you the web adress, but then I'd get a spanking from the host... use your imagination, and you will find the "cartalk" website...
A bad transmission does not cause vibration, at least I've never heard of it. Strut mounts, yeah. After 8 years, the whole front end should be looked at by a good shop anyway. I had a ball joint give out while driving... that's hard on the rest of the car, traffic around you, and your underwear.
-Mathias
Now however, the A/C in our 2004 (Purchased 4/2004) has stopped working for the second time in a year. Also when first starting out for the day, the transmission is now shifting very rough from 1st to 2nd and from 2nd to 3rd. It eventually smooths out so definitely not "normal".
I thought maybe I was expecting too much, but I'm now beginning to think that Toyota might be losing their focus on quality as they focus on being the largest auto manufacturer. Be careful what you wish for, if volume replaces quality you won't maintain the volume long. Just ask GM.
Also Seat belt lights do not work.About a month or so ago when you put the seat belt on, the seat belt is off red light would start blinking.Conversely if you didn't put the seat belt on, the light would stay off.Now the light is just flat out off all the time.
Thx in advance
I am going through the same issue with my '99. It is back to the dealer for the second trip in the morning. I'll keep you posted on what my dealer finds.
Thanks for any help!!!
I just traded in my Corolla for a used 2000 Sienna LE and on the ride home, encountered recurring, weird electrical problems. This is a Toyota certified car that I got the extended service care program for along with my Toyota financing. I drove home at night in the rain, so the wipers were going, and the lights were on, trying out the new stereo, using the A/C part of the time to help defrost the windshield, when suddenly the door locks unlocked. At first my fiance and I thought one was playing a trick on the other so we re-locked the doors and kept driving. It happened again. And again. On the ride home, we honestly lost count how many times it happened. We even stopped once to physically open and slam every door making sure no doors were ajar. After awhile I noticed that when the locks would open there was a flash on the dashboard of the indicator for open doors (a little red car lit up with doors open). Then towards the end of the drive, as I put on a blinker to signal a turn, the inside "reading" lights (the ones above the head in the front seats that would help you read a map) started to flicker and the lights stayed on as I made a Uturn.
At that hour the dealer was long closed, so I called the salesman's cell and joked that the car might be haunted, but explained the strange glitch. He mentioned I could bring the car back in the next day, but first off mentioned that electrical problems often manifest during rain (not reassuring enough just having driven a certified car off their lot). Also, the dealership is quite far from where I live and far from public transportation, so bringing it back there the next morning would be quite cumbersome. I asked about bringing it to the closest Toyota dealer, found out they were closed Sundays (bought it on Saturday) and was told if I didn't go back to the dealership where I bought the car, would have to pay $15 at another Toyota service shop, even being a certified car with the extra coverage, which I find unreasonable, given I just bought the car.
I'm also wondering HOW this glitch passed through the 166 point certification check? I do know the car had just gotten on the lot a few days before I got there, but the carfax on it came up clean. My only hunch is maybe driving in the rain with lights on and all the other electrical elements combined in some way to set the locks open, something I didn't catch on the test drive because either I drove the car with doors unlocked and/or it wasn't raining then and the wipers weren't on and/or the lights weren't on...
Now the question is what to do: my hunch was to take it to an independent shop on a Sunday to check out though I wouldn't want that to interfere with the coverage from Toyota or wait until tomorrow when I can bring in to my closest dealership to check. Plus, where the whole thing stands with my lemon law rights, if this turns out to be a big problem never caught during inspection. And further complications: I did the deal as a trade-in, so if I needed to bring the Sienna back, what is my recourse: a refund, a swap, getting my previous car back, etc. I've always been a Toyota owner and this is the first time I've had something like this happen.
Thanks for any help anyone can give.
166-point certification:
* "Looks good to me"
* Change the oil
* Drive around the block
* Do the paperwork
Voila: Certified Pre-owned.
CPO is an extended warranty; nothing more, nothing less.
-Mathias
d
-Mathias
as mathias states: certified pre-owned is evidently nothing more that you paying extra for a warrenty. the vehicles don't necessarily get inspected anymore thoroughly nor parts replaced just because it has that label.
i've complained to the edmunds people because the Edmunds.Com homepage is misleading. Look at the Certified Pre-Owned, and you'll see some text: "Factory Inspected". Ahhh - what does that mean?
good luck.
From their site...
At Toyota, only the best of the best are chosen to be Toyota Certified Used Vehicles. When we choose a vehicle for Toyota Certification, we have to do a little investigative work. Not only do we put each vehicle through an exhaustive 160-checkpoint Quality Assurance Inspection, but we also run a Vehicle History Report to ensure it's worthy of the Toyota Certification process. Then, each vehicle is reconditioned to Toyota's exacting standards by factory-trained Toyota Technicians. We want the vehicles to look, feel and smell as new as possible and we know you do too. We believe this helps maintain the value, as well as creates pride in ownership of Toyota Certified Used Vehicles.
That's what all the salesguys say. That this process occurs before it's offered for sale as Used and after the previous owner. So is this all nonsense? I understand that it simply boils down to an extended warranty but how can they get away with claiming to do all this if people can prove otherwise? Isn't that false advertising?
I'm simply curious, not trying to be challenging in any way.
Also, it seems we may have had our rear-hatch door not completely closed (latched) tight enough last nite and perhaps that is why while driving we had the locks opening and the interior lights flashing. When we got in the Sienna today, the open door indicator light was lit until we opened and closed the hatch firmly.
Tom'w while driving we shall see...
Thanx again! D
Thanks for your consideration,
Jeannine Fallon
Corporate Communications
Edmunds.com