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Steve, Host
Good luck and let us know what happens.
They now say I have an issue with my EGR (dirty) and PVC valve (sticking), major $Bucks. Is this something I can do on my own with a repair manual? I'm no grease monkey but I can become an apprentice grease monkey at those dealer prices!!
>>>to be lubricated at the dealer.
Is this considered a maintenence item or is it covered under warranty? I've got this thump sound as well in my '04 Axiom.
Recently I decided to start upgrading the sound. I found some interesting facts out about the speakers. I replaced the front set with component speakers and to my surprise the same audio signal was being sent to the tweeters as was being sent to the main 6 1/2's. Knowing this I was able to install non-component speakers in the back doors with no loss of sound and a full $100 savings in the cost of the speakers. Just food for thought..
Now the fun part. No installer I've talked to so far will touch the head unit, nor offer other solutions to replacing it. Has anyone had any luck installing a replacement unit? Or had any luck installing the unit somewhere other than the center console? Thanks in advance
Check carmax.com to get an idea of retail prices in your area - they're actually MUCH higher than $9K for Axioms, so consider selling it privately if you can.
I'd myself happily pay $10K for it and I don't even need a car!
I would not recommend XC90 unless you enjoy coffee and cookies at your local Volvo dealership. That car is one of the least reliable vehicles in America. RX330 is worth the money but a Highlander (made in the same factory in Japan) is slightly bigger and cheaper with some additional discounts and, technically, as safe as the Volvo.
Ugh, sucks to be you. Of course, my Range Selector Switch cost $411 bucks. That's a part that cost them about $3 bucks to make and took all of perhaps 20 minutes to replace. In a real world it would have been a $75 repair, but of course, we're not in the real world when discussing anything done by dealers.
That said, the flashing gas light and check engine light is a show stopper if you ever want to liberate yourself from this Axiom junk. Fortunately, I got mine replaced under warranty. Yes, I'm jaded. What you'll find is that it hit s a point where even a full tank of gas registers as about a quarter tank. That's when I took my Ax in. It's been a reliable piece of junk so I can't really complain. That said, over the past weekend, I drove my father in law's Acura and there's no comparison. At least in my old GMC Jimmy I could haul plywood even though it was almost "unsafe at any speed"
You can buy the part and do the repair yourself. It really isn't that big of a deal to drop a gas tank. I used to race cars and can rebuild engines without any issue, but some things I really don't want to do. If cost is an issue, just do it yourself.
Why should it take so long to get this frigging part ? Also around the same time my cruise stopped working which they claimed they will look at when they replace the cat. Overall I have been pleased with this vehicle. I love the ride and the all the bells and whistles it comes with. I especially love the power. I don't know how many cars I have blown away just by stepping on the gas ! I'm still concerned about this cat going out though, hopefully this is not a sign of things to come. Any one else experienced this ? Also, I saw someone tricked theirs out and modified the info center on the dash to say other things than "drive further" message that comes on when the key is first turned on, anyone know how this was done ?
Thanks again for your tip on the sending unit. I brought it into Family Izusu in Aurora, IL.
They had to replace the who fuel pump assembly which included the relay. It was covered under warranty. I had a leaking water pump, which they also convered under warranty, and replaced the timing belt while they were at it, only cost to me was the belt $60.00. They also replace a leaking seal in the rear axle, again covered under the power train warranty.
They gave me no hassles about it, or honoring the warranty.
They suggested having the fuel system cleaned, and carbon buildup removed from the air intake? Any thoughts on wiether that is worth it? They wanted $225.00 I declined for now.
They wanted $275 to replace the back brake pads, and resurface the rotors, I thought that was kinda high. Going to search around.
Thanks Again for your help
-- Jim
I had my front pads replaced and the rotors turned at 30k miles at Midas. Since it's 4x4, they have to repack the bearings and such. I paid $265 for it. I'm unclear if they have to repack the the bearing on the back if they pull the rotors, but I suspect so. The upside to using midas is that if the rotors don't warp, they replace the pads for free for life and you aren't at the mercy of the dealer. You know, "dealertude" of drop it off, we'll call ya. I've always had a good experience at Midas. Fixed in an hour or so and no surly dealer ahole who treats you like he's doing you a favor.
Replacing the timing belt for $60 is a good deal. Either that it's a snap to replace.
Good luck.
-Mal
The dealer charges about $80 to clean it.
All I do is remove the air filter housing, squirt some throttle body cleaner in there and wipe it down with a rag. If I'm real ambitious I'll try to get a toothbrush on it too.
A can of cleaner safe for fuel injected engines runs around $6 and the whole process takes about an hour or less every 30,000 miles. Maybe it's something feasible to do on your rig.
Steve, Host
No question, if your vehicle has issues with carbon build up, fix it. MOST vehicles built recently don't get much blow back into the intake because of extremely accurate cam timing.
A can of Ether will also clean it out. It shouldn't be much of an issue to spend a few bucks. That said, the Axiom has a fairly complex intake plenum/air intake system. I would only bother if the vehicle isn't working right. My ax has 60k miles on it and it runs the same as it did when new.
Could to help new brake pads?
Is the dealer the only source for lubrication of the driveshaft? I am trying to stay away from the dealer-They wanted $99 for a check engine light,went to Amco and they found the gas cap not secured all the way,reset the code and all has been fine. Cost was $0
First I thought it was the seat belt or the seat itself making noises when I hit bumps. Let me know if you get the problem resolved, I have an '04 as well.
In my case the locking mechanism for the rear seat (R-rear) was rubbing on the "retainer" for lack of a better word. It caused a high pitch squeek. With the seats "up" pull back and forth on them. The dealer greased them some time ago but I didn't want to deal with the hassle or mess of greasing it periodically. I put a few wraps of electical tape and it has been fine since.
Good luck with it.
Darin
Is this normal for this truck or is there a problem with the transmission ?
Thanks for any help and experimenting you folks can offer.
After warming up the engine and with the A/C off,
I just recently noticed that if I shift slowly from Reverse to Park (at a full stop with my foot on the brake pedal), there is a jump in rpm from about 750 (at Reverse) upto about 900 (midway between Reverse and Park) and then back down to 750 rpm (at Park).
In the years I've owned the truck I never noticed this before.
Is this normal for this truck or is there a problem with the transmission ?
Thanks for any help and experimenting you folks can offer.
First off, you need a hitch. I bought one online for $180 bucks. You can probably find it a few dollars cheaper, shrug.
Next, you need some method of drilling out a 1 inch hole. I used a bosch Step Drill SDH4. Cost me about 30 bucks. I drilled out the hole so the flat plate would fit in. The metel chunks burnt me so I put on a long sleeve shirt and a glove. I ran some florist wire through the hole the bolt ends up in and out to the new 1 inch hole I drilled. I attached the wire to the very end of the bolt and worked the whole thing out. It sounds difficult, but it isn't really. Just attach the wire to the end of the bolt, work it up into the frame rail and pull it down.
I then found out I needed to lower the spare tire. What a fiasco that was. The spare on the Axiom is suspened by a chain. you need to get the jack rods out from under the passenger rear seat, insert the rod through a hole just above the bumper and hope you can manager to insert it into the spare tire "chain jack". It took me about a half hour to get the damn thing into the right hole. If you've never dropped the spare tire on your Ax, don't hesitate, go now and try it. You'll be scratching your head how the rod goes together, and how to turn it. Better to learn it now when you aren't at the side of the road tryig to figure it out.
After dropping the spare, getting the hitch up was a snap. You need 15/16 socket and or wrench to tighten the bolts. It says "75-100" foot pounds of torque. I just tightened it to the "mal spec" as in, tight as both arms pulling, braced feet against the rear wheel.
Viola! ">
I haven't decide what I'm going to do to fix it yet. I'll take a look at it in the morning. It was late when I finally figured out what was going on.
It sounds like the later Axioms have sealed bearings in the front. Makes my brake and rotor job easier now.
Stereo upgrade----JBL 6.5" speakers in all 4 doors---not too expensive---and makes a pretty big difference. I had them leave the stock tweeter components hooked up (I bought 3 ways for all 4 doors) so I have even better top end, and DEFINITELY more bass. But I went 1 step farther and had them install a Pyramid equalizer/booster (906VL). They mounted it on the side of the center console on the driver's side, and wired it into all 4 speakers. Now it really cranks!!! There is some ignition whine, but when you crank it up you can't hear it. You can turn off the amp/eq and it will work like stock. Overall, an excellent upgrade for less than $500.
Suspension upgrade---I had air bag suspension installed in the rear----bags that go inside the coil springs---with an air hose at the back that you fill at a tire air pump. It firmed up the ride (took the bounce and body lean way down), and took all the bottoming out of the suspension. In sport mode, it rides almost as well as my friend's 2005 Highlander. It also added 1000lbs of towing capacity.
Parts and installation $230.
That's it for now. Get in touch with me if you have any questions. CB
Thanks
Wayne
We have a wonderful place right here to "get in touch" and share ideas.
tidester, host
http://www.airliftcompany.com/al1000.htm
As far as I can tell, there are no aftermarket shocks. Looks like a dealer-only item.
CB
To those ends, we will be shutting down the general make/model discussions and work exclusively with specific issues. This requires us to populate the make/model subsections with relevant, interesting and timely topics. Rather than having the hosts simply create boilerplate topics for each make/model, we feel that you, the owner, the make/model enthusiast and the prospective buyer can best judge what those topics should be.
You can help by adding a discussion (it's easy!) or suggesting one here.
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Isuzu Axiom
tidester, host
Anyone else observe this problem? any solutions? Dealer says this is normal for this model, of course the Dealer no longer is an authorized Isuzu dealer so they are probably saying anything to keep me away.
Any insight would be appreciated. Also the mechanic said then can fix it for under 150, might be easier then trying to get it done by Isuzu, who knows?
Thanks
Dennis P.
According to the Isuzu website:
Isuzu warranty
the axle seals are covered. I'd go to an Isuzu dealer, if one is close.