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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • moonzy1moonzy1 Member Posts: 4
    By the way, it is loosing refrigerant as well. About i can per week.
  • mshermsher Member Posts: 5
    It may be sounds strange for you but you can download it from the Russian site (don't be afraid docs are in english)
    owners manual:
    http://www.comreg.ru/intrepid/manual.pdf
    Chrysler service manual
    http://www.comreg.ru/lh2manual.pdf
  • charlesf1charlesf1 Member Posts: 52
    Can someone tell me how to remove scratches in my head light lenses?
  • charlesf1charlesf1 Member Posts: 52
    Thank you so much for telling us where we can go to download the service manual. I always buy the manual when I buy a new car, as I did when I bought my 2000M. If I had been able to download the manual at that time I would have saved over $100.00. Do you by any chance no where I can do the same thing on my 2004 PT Cruiser? I got a 2003 manual for it and it would be nice to download it also.

    Regards
  • tick1tick1 Member Posts: 1
    help....what's the most logical problem I should look for with a driverside front power window that works easily going down but not up?
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Try a "search" in the discussion, there should be some reference to how to fix this problem, if it can be corrected. Or go to the regular 300M discussion and I know among the 25,000 posts that this issue was raised. :shades: I tried "cloudy headlights" and got a host of hits in the search engine.
  • used300ownerused300owner Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a used (2004)300M with 11K miles on it. I have been searching for problems on this last year run. Has anyone run into any problems that I need to be on the lookout for? I see other years have had tire pressure problems,steering problems, and I previously owned a '96 LHS that had tie rod problems at about 60K miles. I am also only getting about 21mpg with a mix of highway/city but mostly highway miles. My LHS got about 26mpg. With gas prices so high I am looking to get the best mileage possible.
  • mlars22mlars22 Member Posts: 1
    I'm posting in the hopes that this helps if the problem continues. I also bought a used '99 and I suffered through a similar problem for months. Mine started about 9 months after I bought it. Problem continued to get worse and eventually had problems starting (although it would always eventually restart after it sat for a while). Had it towed into shop and they couldn't find any problem -- no errors codes and everything checked out fine.

    I have a friend who is a Chrysler mechanic and he suggested the Fuel Pump as first likley cause. I did my homework on the problem via internet and found plenty of reports of problem -- a few who reported it said it was solved via Fuel Pump replacement. I should have done the fuel pressure test but I blindly went for it and replaced the fuel pump. Unfortunately that wasn't it.

    There are several others things that can fail leading to the described problem. I ran the list past my mechanic friend and he said it could be any one of them. Finally got bad enough I figured it was bound to happen when I took it in. Took it to delear and they did identify error codes from both Cam and Crankshaft sensors.

    Had them replace both of them (although I was disappointed they didn't get it to fail first). It was plenty spendy through the dealership with labor costs. I believe you can pick up both sensors for less that $100 if you shop around. So far so good -- it's only been a couple of weeks but the problem was occuring almost on a daily basis.

    From my research the same symptom can be caused by a multitude of root causes. Cam and/or Crankshaft sensors, PCM (Power Control Module), Fuel Pump, and others. From what I read and from my own personal experience heat seems to exacerbate the problem -- and from what I understand that's typical of PCM (although my problem was Cam/Crankshaft sensors).

    Here's some info I found on it ...
    Chrysler’s crankshaft position sensor produces a square wave signal that goes from a high of 5.0 volts to a low of 0.3 volts. The sensor is located on the passenger side of the transaxle housing so it can read three sets of slots in the flywheel. Two sets contain 4 slots each, and one set contains 5 slots for a total of 13 slots. Basic timing is set by the position of the last slot in each group. Once the PCM detects the last slot, it determines which piston is next in the firing order from the camshaft position sensor. This means the engine may have to crank at least one revolution before the PCM can sort out the proper firing order and start zapping the plugs.

    Sorry for the long reply but I wanted to give you as much as I could to go on.

    Good Luck.
  • intrepidspiritintrepidspirit Member Posts: 662
    Re gas mileage:

    My wife and I have had a total of 4 300M's. The first, a 2000, had an EPA rating of 18-26, but got better gas mileage than the 2001 @ 18-27. Similarly, the 2 2003's we know own, have the worst gas mileage of all.

    My 2000 would get about 22.2 on mixed freeway/city driving to L.A. The 2001 would get about 21.3 for the same driving. My wife's 2003 gets about 19.5 for the same driving. Maybe the freeways have gotten more crowded, resulting in more stop and go traffic.

    However, there are changes on long freeway trips ( e.g. - from L.A. to San Francisco) as well. The 2000 would get about 26.2 on this round trip. The 2001 would get 25.5 and my 2003 would get about 24.8 (@ 75-80 mph). One thing I noticed with the 2003 vs. the 2001 and 2000 was that the emission numbers came way down. So I surmise that Chrysler got their MPG numbers maximized for the 3.5L engine and then worked on reducing emissions, which cost them mileage. If the EPA restested the engine today, it would get lower MPG, IMHO.

    Your 96 LHS did not have a 250 h.p. engine, so you should expect lesser gas mileage. Hope this helps.
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    I have posted a few comments on my 2004 bought new Mar 04 in both this and the standard 300M forums. At 14000 miles we have had no, ie ZERO problems with the car. Best quality of any car owned! And I have had 7 new in 20+ years. I now have another 19 months of full warranty and expect to be adding more miles per month soon (my Gr Cherokee with extended warranty that expires in December will see less use), however I doubt if I will hit 36000 miles before the 36 mons main warranty expires.

    As for gas mileage, as commented before I do get 18 mpg summer city (just checked, last 300 miles of city driving) and got 26 mpg at 70 mph flat midwest road freeway driving over 50 miles this past weekend (pretty ideal, no AC). I sped to 75 and the mileage dropped 2 mpg; with our $2.50 probably soon $3 post Katrina gas I expect to see some government edicted speed limit drops within a year and alas the 300M is not much fun at 55-60 mph. BTW, I see no difference in 87 vs 89 octane gas, neither in power or mpg. So despite an extra 60 hp from the 300M, I get over 4 mpg better than my Jeep most likely due to aerodymanics.

    And the car is still classy. While many seem opinionated on the new RWD 300 (love it or hate it) both my wife and I get frequent comments from 30 somethings to those 60 plus that our red 300M is a nice looking vehicle. ENJOY yours!
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Member Posts: 960
    Had a similar problem with the wife's 00 Eldo, and it turned out to be crank shaft sensors. The dealer knew what the fix was as soon as I described what was happening. So...it must have been a pretty common occurrence for that model for them to know exactly what the problem was before doing a diagnostic. It was under extended warranty, but the bill to replace the sensors, per the invoice, was about $320. :shades:
  • redcar4redcar4 Member Posts: 2
    Sorry I can't be of help, I have the same sort of thing. Idles rough stopped in drive, in neutral it's fine. Seems to run great at speed, good enough mileage (23 city, 28 hwy). Changed plugs to platinum, nothing, no error codes. Car has 33k. If you hear anything or find a fix I'd be interested to hear it. Otherwise, I love this car!
  • kylitokylito Member Posts: 17
    Is there a specific one that can be downloaded for the 300M? I noticed the ones you had posted were for a LHS and general Chrysler one
  • used300ownerused300owner Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info. I will enjoy it as long as I can afford to fill the gas tank! :) Gas is $2.85 a gallon where I live. I take it you have not run into any tire pressure problems. I have always had a soft spot for red, but my 300M is metallic black. I've done some researching on the octane debate, and it appears that as long as it doesn't ping you can get by on the lower octane. I will probably continue to use the recommended octane in the manual just to be on the safe side. Let me know if any problems arise.
  • illini4illini4 Member Posts: 140
    It's not going to ping on 87 octane. The engine has detonation sensors that cause the ECM to retard timing slightly if detonation (ping) occurs.
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    Goto the main 300M forum this msg, note it's a 54 MEGABYTE download so you better have broadband or DSL and plenty of harddrive space.

    Message 25940 of 25944 Service Manual 2004 300M, Concorde and Intrepid by spark9 Sep 21, 2005

    I downloaded a version a few months ago, but after 18 months still no problems (half way through the new car warranty, so the dealer would fix them anyway, but car quality remains superb).
  • tdrumtdrum Member Posts: 1
    I bought my 2004 300M new with 5 miles on it. Nothing but problems from day one. Over heating, head gasket replacement, several oxygen sensors, and crank sensors. Finally the engine locked up on the dealers lot. They replaced the long block at no charge and the dealer has been great. Now with about 30k on the new long block the have replaced several oxygen sensors and now the crank sensor on the new engine. Seems like we are going down the same path. Dealer has been great car has been terrible.. Sorry for all the bad news but its fact.
  • illini4illini4 Member Posts: 140
    I've been following this board as well as other 300M boards for over 6 years and have never heard a story like yours. None of the problems you mention are common - they are more like unheard of. You are having some incredibly bad luck.
  • laurasdadalaurasdada Member Posts: 4,732
    Maybe your M came from a lot stricken by Katrina...

    '21 Dark Blue/Black Audi A7 PHEV (mine); '22 White/Beige BMW X3 (hers); '20 Estoril Blue/Oyster BMW M240xi 'Vert (Ours, read: hers in 'vert weather; mine during Nor'easters...)

  • 300mess300mess Member Posts: 4
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    I feel for you too, I bought my 300M new in spring 04 and with 15K miles have had zero problems. It's the best car I have ever owned quality wise (and looks etc too). At least so far, we'll see what another 5-7 years brings as I typically drive mine into the ground, which unfortunately even w/TLC never seems to be the 150K miles I would like to get.

    I guess it's a bell shaped curve with some bad and some good; really sorry to hear you have had that many severe problems as overall it's a sharp pretty highly rated car.
  • tweekestweekes Member Posts: 5
    HI classiccars, I started my wife's 02 300M the last couple days to move it in the garage, it started knocking, vibrating and putting out smoke. Sounds like a bad lifter pumping up but it's OK when it finally get's up. I am worried sick but I just joined and seems everyone is having the same problem. I went through the tranny thing with it starting in the wrong gear, etc, showing all gears and not just drive at the drive position. what a pain, dealer was never able to get the check engine light out. What is happening with your's any answers.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    ...but I just joined and seems everyone is having the same problem.

    Huh? Who else is having that problem? I don't recall anybody having the problem you describe. :confuse:
  • matthew711matthew711 Member Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 1999 300M and I noticed last week that when I started the vehicle, a code that reads -1sel appears on the screen and then disappears showing either my radio station of the time. I have also noticed that the front speaker located in the dash has a lot of feedback (almost like a blown speaker) and I don't know if it has anything to do with the "code" that I am getting when I start my car, or if it is a seperate incident.
  • illini4illini4 Member Posts: 140
    I believe that's what comes up when you input you seat/mirror/radio memory for selection #1. It may come up when you unlock the car with the #1 remote transmitter and then turn on the ignition- I'm not sure.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    That is correct.
  • mpw2mpw2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 20002 M can any won tell me where all the air filters are on this car
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    There's only one and it's located on the passenger side fender, under the hood, behind the passenger side headlight. There are no cabin filters.
  • CamcruzrCamcruzr Member Posts: 13
    99'300M/PHP.
    I have had light shows e.g. radio displasy on/off;dash display on/off;overhead map lights flicker. this past summer.
    At the the same time period this past summer I have had starting problems. When I attempt to start car,there is complete silence, no electrical connection. I found out by trial and error that if I turn on the headlights, or the radio the electrical connection is made and the car starts immediately.
    The starting problem is getting better in the cooler aurumn weather.(Any connection)?

    Any thoughts on this ?? or similar past experiences?? solutions to the problem.???
  • dale8dale8 Member Posts: 1
    Hope that it is only a bad lifter. Our 300M, with less than 50K, suffered a connecting rod bearing failure that scored the crankshaft. Always changed oil (Mobil 1: 10W30) and filter (Fram Tough Guard) every 3000 miles. Absolutely no warning until the terrible knock started on startup. The knock discontinued after several minutes, but the damage had already been done. Guess that I'll be switching to Japanese-built cars in the near future.
  • naatz1naatz1 Member Posts: 188
    Sorry, but not sure how to link to a comment I made w/o replying to myself. Well, I just had my first very minor 300M bug and warranty fix (I hope it's fixed, car seems to be doing better). At 15,700 miles and 19 months old, on Monday it did not start - engine cranked but it twas flooded. We got it started doing the old hold the pedal to the floor trick just like carbs did for years, then lotsa white smoke and bad gas smells even after driving it around for a mile. It did not throw a code, I was suspicious of bad gas, however the wife had filled at a major chain sooooo....despite thinking it might be overkill I took it to our DC dealer.

    Wow, they got me in w/o an appt, had it done in 90 mins! Nothing showed on their scopes and it was running fine of course, so they put a TSB firmware upgrade into the main car computer TSB 18-042-03 for cold weather hard start and rough idle. I put in a full tank of top grade (BP/Amoco) gas and have driven it now for a day ... all seems fine, so will let the wife have "her" car back. The only thing that seems odd is we drove it all last winter with no problems, why a problem now when only 40 deg out, hmmm?

    Anyway, I'm not sure I really will hold this against the car: it was minor, maybe only a fluke, no real pains and excellent turn around at Adamson Motors (ah, tomorrow I head there for my first new tires on my 01 Gr Cherokee at 70,000 miles ... Michelin LTX M/S, this one WILL cost some bucks but I hope they are as good as all I read about them ... cannot complain getting that many miles on OEM GY Wranglers either, but I need more than 4/32s tread in Minnesota winter).
  • blorbblorb Member Posts: 2
    My heater stopped blowing hot air. this spring it did it for 1 day
    and it returned after I set heat to 90 then back down but that did
    not work this time. how do I do a diagnostics test or reset on the ATC
    temp gauge is fine any ideas to what problem could be.
    thanks blorb
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    I'll assume it blows air. You may be having a problem with your heater core. If it's simply taking a while before the air starts blowing, that's normal. I can't remember if it's true for the 99 Ms, but it won't start blowing any air until the engine warms up. That way you don't get hit with an Arctic blast when you turn on the heat. If that is the case, just set the highly effective seat warmer on High and enjoy until the air starts. ;)
  • blorbblorb Member Posts: 2
    It blows fine, but its cold and stays cold even when engine warms up.
    could it be thermostat? any way I can do a self diagnostics on atc?
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    There's no self-test that I know of for the ATC. You may have a blockage to the heater core or it could be the valve to the core just not opening. You'll have to take it to the dealer and have them check it out.
  • illini4illini4 Member Posts: 140
    There is a self test. It's initiated by depressing some combination of the control switches, but I don't remember the details. Its covered in the service manual.
  • bruceg2bruceg2 Member Posts: 2
    I have owned an '00 300M for two years now. The car has been great for 28,000 miles and now has 49,000. Several months ago it started to develop a hard starting condition. It fires right up when cold (sitting all night) or hot (a quick trip in and out of a store) but if it sat for two/three hours it might have taken a couple of cranks to turnover and at times would puff out a cloud of smoke. The mechanic performed a fuel pressure reading about two weeks ago, and said it showed low pressure and replaced the fuel pump. The problem has gotten worse with the new pump and now can sit out all day at work and give me the same fits after eight hours. It still starts right up hot or being started in the morning. The car runs great after it starts and has always started after a couple of cranks. Could I be having the same problems with the starter/ignition relay and switch problems like the '99 owner's had on page 7 of this forum? Any advice would be appreciated.
  • kbmoose1kbmoose1 Member Posts: 3
    Do you know what might cause a musty odor in a 2001 300M? Like last night, I had the climate control 'off' for about 30 minutes while driving, then hit the 'Automatic' switch. I got a mild odor for 3-4 minutes, then it was fine. One night in the rain, I had the odor for a 30 mile drive. During the day, I almost never have it. Changed the air filter, made sure the a/c drip hose is clear. A friend told me to check the cabin filter, but I was told it didn't have one. A 1996 Caravan had a similar odor, it was a filter in the a/c system. Does the 300M have one of those?
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    Nope.
  • mshermsher Member Posts: 5
    Most likely you have a problem with the negative wire of the battery. Try to clean up both connectors of the wire (on battery side and on ground side)
  • eden4eden4 Member Posts: 1
    I am working on a '99 300M with the exact same conditions. Replaced fuel pump, which helped the delayed start, but seemed to create the no start condition just as you describe. Have you found any solutions at this point?
  • charlesf4charlesf4 Member Posts: 20
    I was just over to the 300/300C site and I found that they are having the same problems that the 300M's and have had. Cars pulling to the right, outside temp. indicator sticking, trans. problems and on and on. I have a 2000 300M I bought new and have had good luck with it so far. It now has 65,000 on it and everything is still working. The only problem it has had that I consider major (because of the repair cost) was the evaporator for the AC had to be replaced. That had to be done at an independent shop because the dealer never could find the problem, even when they put dye in the system.

    I had been toying with the idea of replacing the car but have given up on that since it has been a good auto.
  • intrepidspiritintrepidspirit Member Posts: 662
    I have never heard of a 300M that pulled to the right. However, I have had personal experience with two that pulled to the left...
  • moparmaniac43moparmaniac43 Member Posts: 2
    I just bought a 99 300M last week and am noticing that sometimes the horn will work Via the Steering wheel or remote when locking the doors and such and sometime it won't. Right now it doesn't work more than it works.

    Is there a horn relay? for this or is it a short to the horn itsself? Anyone else experienced this? I thought the problem was contact in the steering wheel, but it's now not doing it when arming the door locks with the remote. I haven't set it to turn off the car horn chirp when arming the system either.

    If anyone could guide me, I'd appreciate it.

    Thanks!
  • jonathan_216jonathan_216 Member Posts: 22
    If you hold down the floor mix and both defrost at the same time it will go through a cycle and if there are any display error codes. hope this helps!
  • paynbigpaynbig Member Posts: 3
    Hello, this is my first time posting and I decided to reply to yours because I too drive a 02 300M, a beauty, brought it with about 125 miles. First my engine light would stay on and even today it is still on. I have about 116k miles mostly highway. I have had the rotors repaired or replaced. This August in Ga I had the car serviced for about 2k, my AC was not working the two fan burned out, replaced wire on the fog light later replaced bulb. Had the timing belt replaced, AC charged, transmission cleaned. Drove the car to VA, the AC does work properly take it to the dealer and they tell me it was over charged, GA sent a refund. While the car is at the dealer in VA we (husband)them to check out the noise in the left front wheel. When you do a sharp or some time just a left turn there is a clicking noise. Okay, I am told that I need to replace the swag bar and bushlings. Then I need a front end alignment but not until I also replace the right swag bar and bushling. Okay. Big bucks. Drive the car the noise is still there. Take the car back get a company car for two days this is Nov now. I call thinking that they have fixed my car because I was told that it was the wheel bearings and I would only be charged half for the part and no labor. Well, the car was not fixed and something else was wrong with it, the suspensions need to be replace costing 700. I finally call the mananger over the manager and he drives the car and tell me to bring it back after the holidays and it will be fixed. I am telling him that I cannot have every part replaced at my expense because they do not know what is wrong with it. Oh, did I tell you this in between all of this, I was driving on the interstate doing about 70 or so had the car on cruise, felt a terrible jerk so I took the car out of cruise and drove about 8 more miles home and parked the car. No problem. About 4 hours later it was on the back of a tow truck
    because I went to start it about two hours later it started went to put it in drive and it slide through every gear. TRANSMISSION. Oh, yea I have replace 3 of the center pieces on the wheel at $20 each.
  • paynbigpaynbig Member Posts: 3
    Please email me if that has solved your problem. I am experiencing a clicking whenever I make a left turn. I was told to replace my swag bars and bushings in September and now here it is Dec and they still have not guessed what is wrong. I was it was the wheel bearings after that it was the suspensions. I have talked to the manager over the manager and was told to bring it back after the holidays. I wonder if this is wearing my alignment out the one that was recommended after replacing the swag bars etc. I have 116k on my 02, brought it new and love it. Steel blue fully loaded, it is a show stopper.
  • paynbigpaynbig Member Posts: 3
    Did you find out what the problem was? I am experiencing a clicking noise when making a left. I have had my swag bars, bushings replaced. Still the noise. A tech said it was the wheel bearings, so I told okay bring the car back and we will give you a car and you only have to pay half for the part and no labor cost, kept my car for two days, claims it is a supspension problem and they want another 700. I have spoken with the mananger over the manager and told him that I cannot afford to pay them for their guessing game. So, I am taking it back after the holidays. This has been going on since Sept. I drive a beautiful steel blue 02 300M, love the car. I have had the transmission replaced in between all of this.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Member Posts: 1,926
    It sounds like your dealer is giving you the run around. If you're getting a clicking noise when turning, it seems like a CV (constant velocity) joint is going bad. It's a simple and not terribly expensive fix. I believe your dealer is just fleecing you for money.

    BTW, its sway bar, not swag bar. And sway bars are front and rear, not right or left. Maybe he said the right end-link on the sway bar?

    No offense intended at all, but you might want to have your husband to all the dealings with your service department because it doesn't seem like you're knowledgeable at all when it comes to cars. That puts you at a major disadvantage when dealing with a shady service department. Let's just hope your husband knows something about cars. There's lots of men out there that don't know squat about the workings of an automobile. :confuse: It's sad really. :sick:
  • sirby1sirby1 Member Posts: 3
    My 2005 300M was doing the same thing. The dealership replaced the computer cluster and the problem went away. Chrysler gave the dealership a hard time, but they were successful in convencing the manufacturer of the problem.
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