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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
Has anybody had this problem ?
After following the discussions here I bit the bullet and replaced the fuel pump myself. So far several days and 100 miles --no stalls ---.
I bought the fuel pump at Drivewire.com for $155 delivered in 3 days.
Mine was the pre-12/2000 model car. This pump replaces an older model with a metal top and ground wire. The ground wire is not used.
I backed the car on ramps inserted safety lifts and then
I drained the tank thru the plastic plug --easy. (Remember no electrical lights & stuff and undo the negative battery post because of gas fumes).
Undo the filler tube where you add gas -3 screws.
I undid the 4 bolts (13mm) for the metal tank stays. Then undid the sway bar bolts 2 short and 2 long and supported the tank on a car jack. Watch the tension on the electrical line where it is held on the right side heat shield. Undo the shield on that side to add slack.
The tank falls down 18" and with the rt side lower you can get to the pump assbly in the left upper rear tank.
Carefully undo the electrical connector- slide the red tab to one side and pinch it up and pull. (Look at one to AC compressor under hood to see how it works.) The fuel line connector is simply pinch in the blue plastic and pull.
Clean around the pump and then unscrew the top --use a plastic handle screwdriver to tap and start-- and remove noting placement. The seal ring rests on the edge of the opening --careful to replace correctly.
Insert the pump and tighten the screw top holder. Reconnect the electric and fuel line. Lift the tank back up and tighten the metal stays. and sway bar. Screw the 3 screws to the filler tube.
Connect battery add gas and start. It might have to crank a minute to fill lines etc.
This may have solved the problem for me and doing it myself saved ~$200+. Hope this helps someone. Good Luck!
After following the discussions here I bit the bullet and replaced the fuel pump myself. So far several days and 100 miles --no stalls ---.
I bought the fuel pump at Drivewire.com for $155 delivered in 3 days.
Mine was the pre-12/2000 model car. This pump replaces an older model with a metal top and ground wire. The ground wire is not used.
I backed the car on ramps inserted safety lifts and then
I drained the tank thru the plastic plug --easy. (Remember no electrical lights & stuff and undo the negative battery post because of gas fumes).
Undo the filler tube where you add gas -3 screws.
I undid the 4 bolts (13mm) for the metal tank stays. Then undid the sway bar bolts 2 short and 2 long and supported the tank on a car jack. Watch the tension on the electrical line where it is held on the right side heat shield. Undo the shield on that side to add slack.
The tank falls down 18" and with the rt side lower you can get to the pump assbly in the left upper rear tank.
Carefully undo the electrical connector- slide the red tab to one side and pinch it up and pull. (Look at one to AC compressor under hood to see how it works.) The fuel line connector is simply pinch in the blue plastic and pull.
Clean around the pump and then unscrew the top --use a plastic handle screwdriver to tap and start-- and remove noting placement. The seal ring rests on the edge of the opening --careful to replace correctly.
Insert the pump and tighten the screw top holder. Reconnect the electric and fuel line. Lift the tank back up and tighten the metal stays. and sway bar. Screw the 3 screws to the filler tube.
Connect battery add gas and start. It might have to crank a minute to fill lines etc.
This may have solved the problem for me and doing it myself saved ~$200+. Hope this helps someone. Good Luck!
I'm not sure if it idles lower than its supposed to or not. When its in gear and i'm stopped at a light it'll idle at 600rpm when its in park it'll idle at 800rpm. Is this normal?
Has anyone had this happen before. Also when I idle the a/c fan will slow down but as soon as I start to drive it will blow harder. I'm at a lost and I don't want to take it to the dealer. Any help would be appreciated.
My check engine light has come on so maybe an error code will show a faulty sensor?
I will follow up with my findings --hope this helps someone else. Btw - can I replace the Cam and crank sensors myself? rogjack6112@comcast.net
My check engine light has come on so maybe an error code will show a faulty sensor?
I will follow up with my findings --hope this helps someone else. Btw - can I replace the Cam and crank sensors myself?
Now I have replaced the fuel pump and both sensors -- hope it works. I will report back in a week or so.
(BTW the crank sensor did have a tiny hole in the plastic covering about the AC plug.) Roger /Nashville
Any problems I have ever had with stalling or potential stalling with 4 300M's (my wife and I each have had 2) have been electronic. It always seems to be the sensors that fail.
To test that it is indeed working, lock the car with the fob, then use the key in the door to unlock it, and open the door. The alarm should sound.
P0465 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Malfunction
P0546 Nothing Listed
P0564 Nothing Listed
P0645 Air Conditioning (A/C) Clutch Relay Control Circuit
P0654 Engine RPM Output Circuit Malfunction
> > SHIFTING
> > > > THE OUT OF IT. THEN
> > > > THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. IT SEEMED TO HAD BEEN
> > > > STUCK IN A GEAR, NOT
> > > > SURE OF WHICH ONE. I TOOK IT TOO FIRESTONE TO
> > HAVE
> > > > THEM CHECK IT. THESE
> > > > ARE THE CODES PO700 & PO1776......TRANSMISSION
> > > > CODE/SWITCHING VALUE.
> > > > FREE FRAME READ 6000RPM IN 3RD GEAR. THEY
> > CLEARED
> > > > THEM AND RELEARN
> > > > COMPUTER. LIGHT HAS CAME BACK ON. SOME
> > HESITATION,
> > > > THE DISPLAY LIGHTS
> > > > UP WITH BOXES AROUND ALL THE GEARS AND WONT
> > SHIFT.
> > > >
> > > > IS THIS MAJOR OR IS THIS SOMETHING TO DO WITH
> > > > INPUT/OUTPUT SENSORS OR
> > > > SOMETHING ELSE......I HOPE THE TRANSMISSION
> > ISN'T
> > > > GOING BAD.
> > > >
> > > > I KNOW FIRESTONE DOESNT DUE TRANSMISSION.....BUT
> > > > THEY NOTED IT MAY NEED
> > > > TRANS OVERHAUL.............CAN SOME
> > > > HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!! BEFORE I TAKE IT
> > > > TO THE DEALER......IT HAS 90,700 MILES ON
> > > > IT....THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > PLEASE LET ME KNOW.......I WANT TO KEEP MY
> > > > CAR!!!!!!!!!!!
I did 7500 mile intervals twice, but had to drop back down to 5K miles because it was burning almost all the oil at 7500 miles. The dealer says it's normal to burn a quart in 3K miles. Whatever. :sick: