Honda Odyssey Care and Maintenance

user777 · May 2007

interesting. you sure they didn't say ECM (Engine Control Module) instead? to be honest, i'm not sure which of the modules manages the knock sensor and timing, but would think the ECM is responsible. yes, tell us how it works out!

hondalova · May 2007

Here's what they wrote on the service invoice:

"NEEDS NEW PCM CODES LEADING TO BAD PCM
RAN HDS TEST
PCM ON ORDER
TO BE INSTALLED UNDER WARRANTY"

and they ordered part number: "37820-RGL-A83"
which they described as: "CONTROL M 37820"

Will post again after work is complete.

-FS

user777 · May 2007

ok, you're not confused, i am.

ecu engine control unit
ecm engine control module
pcm power-train control module

all one in the same.

there's another module in the honda called a power control unit (pcu) i think, which is totally different serving a different function and was confusing me. :shades:

bwaltz · May 2007

I have a 2005 Touring Edition. It is the biggest rip-off I have ever experienced. We just passed over the 34k mile mark and needed new tires. Well, the Tourin has the PAX system and only the dealer can change. After said and done, cost $1500 for 4 new tires. Don't waste your money on this otherwise useless feature. Go buy a Toyota or step down and buy the regular Odyssey. I told the GM their sales practices were deceptive as it was not clear when we bought the amount we would pay to replace. He tried to tell me that congress is trying to pass a new law that requires all cars to have PAX tires. that is fine as it should drive down the replacement cost. shame on you Honda. I will never buy another Honda even if they come out with a 1,000 MPG car.

hondalova · May 2007

Its OK - don't be so hard on yourself. I mean, I though I'd made a mistake once, but I was wrong.

Seriously, you and the others have been a big help with this issue.

-FS

hondalova · May 2007

PCM was changed on Saturday. I haven't driven it yet, but my wife says she thinks its still knocking. I'll drive it tomorrow or Wednesday, but if it is, it has to go back yet AGAIN.

This is NOT what I bought a Honda for. Add this hassle to the right front wheel hub bearing that was replaced a month after I got the car and I'm starting to think I should've just bought a Dodge Caravan - more car for less money and no less reliable apparently. At least the Dodge dealership is 3 miles away and owned by one of my best friends - the Honda dealership is 30 minutes away b/c they won't license a dealer area smaller than the state of Rhode Island.
Will keep you all posted.

-FS

blackexv6 · May 2007

hondalova,

Our '06 Odyssey is our 3rd Honda in the past 5 years. We had pretty significant mechanical problems on all of them.

'03 Accord: transmission failed at 40k, rear struts blown, front tie rod ends bad, & unresolved creaks/rattles sold the car at 59k miles.
'00 Odyssey: 2 transmissions, first at 95k & second at 100k.
'06 Odyssey: Droning defect, bad motor mount, A-pipe failure, numerous creaks

Had a '06 Ford Taurus SE rental last week while my Ody was at the body shop. Much to my surprise, the car was tight as a drum - no creaks or rattles. Also, less road noise than all 3 of my Hondas (all 3 were +$25k-$35k) embarrassing ! And finally, the rental Taurus laughed at potholes and sucked up every road imperfection. I always have to steer clear of every little crack in the road or my teeth will chatter.

I am looking at other manufacturers right now. Hopefully will win my Lemon case this fall & can dump my '06 Odyssey for a Sienna. Also, my next commuter car will probably be a '08 Camry if they work out the hesitation issues.

hondalova · May 2007

blackexv6-

I guess that's why they make Fords AND Hondas - everybody has their own opinions. I would never buy another Ford (except possibly a V-8 Mustang GT).

I owned a '94 Taurus GL with the 3.8 V-6 that I bought used in July of 1996 with 31k on it. Car drove beautifully - when it ran. In November, 1999, I finally sold it, having put only 43k additional miles on it, but having built a whole new car around my key. At the time, it needed over $5,000 worth of work and was only worth about the same.

Our family has owned several Fords over the last 20 years and, with the exception of those powered by V-8 engines (a Mustang GT, a Crown Victoria, and a Lincoln Town Car - all of them the old 5.0, not the new modular 4.6), anything with a 4 or 6 cylinder (two Tauruses, two Escorts, and a Focus) has just sucked.

F-O-R-D:
Found On Road Dead
Fix Or Repair Daily
Feeds On Real Dollars
Flip Over Read Directions
Foolish Overpriced Road Disaster

Why do Fords have the best crash-test ratings? Because its harder to get hit badly when you're broken down and standing still.

Of course, that's just my opinion - millions of Ford enthusiasts would, no doubt, energetically disagree.

With over 10k on my Odyssey already, and having financed 90% of the purchase price, I'm pretty much committed to this car at this point.

-FS :sick:

kidlkcf · May 2007

I just had all my brake pads and rotors replaced for a whopping $550 on my 2004 Odyssey. I have almost exactly 20k miles on the car, and I've had the car for under 3 years. I am livid, too because I'm leasing and the lease is up in a few months. The techs tell me that the brake pads wore out b/c I do "mostly" city(I live in a small town) driving. And, I "must" be a driver that late brakes. Does this sound normal? Looking for some input.

tommyk1 · May 2007

hey everyone,

My name is Tom, just bought a new Honda Odyssey this past weekend. My family and I have been planning a trip to Lake Tahoe few months before we were in the market for a new car. Now that it's here, I was wonder if any of you can advise me if should or should not take my new car for a long drive so soon. It only has bout 10 miles on it. I heard yes's and no's from family and friends. I just wanted to see if other Odyssey owners had been in this type of situation and can share their experience. Thanks

user777 · May 2007

i don't think the issue is how far the trip is. it is whether or not you maintain a constant speed during the break-in period.

do this: go put a couple of hundred miles on it right now with some city and some country and some HWY driving. vary your speed.

don't red-line the thing.

now when you are out on the HWY on your way to the lake, do some driving at 55, some at 65, some at 75 (what is the limit out that way?). just don't take it out on the HWY and stick it on cruise for the whole trip.

isn't tahoe in the mtns? seems like you'll be doing some speed changes anyway.

johnd15 · May 2007

I've read that not replacing the dust/pollen filter in the Odyssey can result in lower fuel economy... so now that I have 60K on my 02 and gas is at $3.50/gal I am looking into this. The owner's manual says to have a dealer change it... but I'd prefer to do it myself. Has anyone tackled this task? Any advice? Are there instructions online anywhere? Thanks.

P.S. Our Ody has been a great family vehicle. Not one problem; still have original brakes too.

hondalova · May 2007

OK - I drove the wife's Odyssey to work today. It's definitely still knocking, though less than before the chip change.

Spoke with dealership service manager who was very nice. He explained that it has to do with a combination of the semi-spherical (a la Hemi) tops of the combustion chambers and the location of the piston at the moment of fuel ignition. He has been asking Tech-Line for an answer to this problem b/c he has several of Ody-EXs with the same issue. So far, the thinking is that enriching the fuel mix may solve the problem but I shudder to think of what that will do the already poor mileage this vehicle has been getting.

I questioned that assessment simply because, if its a design defect, than ALL Ody-EXs without the cylinder deactivation should be experiencing this problem and, clearly, they're not.

However, he has the zone rep in the shop today and promised to discuss it with him and he's taking my car back in on Monday (giving me a loaner this time - no more extended family automotive swaparoos necessary) to check into the problem further.

Any thoughts or ideas would be welcome. After the problems I've had with my '04 Accord and now this, I'm feeling pretty down about Hondas.

-FS

user777 · May 2007

there are 2 air filters in your ODY.

1). there is an engine air filter that if blocked, will significantly reduce fuel economy and could make your vehicle run rich. it is located in the engine compartment (black plastic box), probably on the driver's side. you can loosen 4 phillip-head screws, elevate the top of the box (there isn't much need to elevate the top more than a few inches to reach your hand in there and pull out the filter, and check the cleanliness. i like to change mine every 15K. they cost about $12.00 or so at your local automotive supply store. this is the one that can affect your mileage.

2). there is a dust/pollen filter which is used by the ventillation system for the cabin. on your car, it is located in a compartment on the driver's side just behind the glovebox. it is a BEAR in the ODY to replace. replacement involves dropping the glovebox, cutting extraneous dash material, removing a metal plate, opening a compartment and removing the filter. this is something to be done every 30 or 60K. this one will not affect your mileage. it will affect your breathing.

(1) is EASY, even for a virtual novice.

(2) is a challenge. it almost warrants having 3 or 4 hands.

i'd encourage you to try (1).

(2)...

OK, here is pix / pricing on both (the engine air filter can be found and purchased at an automotive supply store):
http://www.handaaccessories.com/odymaint02.html

the pollen filter for the inside of the car - that i'd order on-line or get at the parts counter at your dealership. i posted a link to instructions, and a follow-up with my experience somewhere here on edmunds. i'll haveto search for it.

dsrtrat2 · May 2007

User777 has a good reply. The symptom, if any, is less air flow thru the AC system. I live in AZ and we run the AC full time half the year, but I also have the air flow on recirculate. The last time I replaced the in cabin filter I couldn't tell the "dirty" side from the "clean". The filter material, at that time was a dirty looking material. Yes, it is a BEAR to replace.

user777 · May 2007

right. my point was essentially, there are two filters (actually there's more... for example fuel filter) that the post was confusing. The engine air filter cleanliness will impact fuel economy. The cabin/pollen air filter cleanliness could impact human breathing efficiency.

busy360 · June 2007

I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey mini van and I am trying to determine at what miles the transmission fluid, brake fluid, coolant, etc. should be changed. I know the maintenance minder will notify me when enough miles are accumulate, but I would like the schedule. I cannot find this in the owners manual or technical manuals.
Can anyone help me?
Thank you.

busy360 · June 2007

Hello

I am trying to obtain a list indicating at what miles the maintenance minder notifies you of scheduled maintenance. Would you know of a good souce?
Thank you.

pkirangi · June 2007

Hello,
I have an odyssey 07 EX-L. Are there any specific Fuel requirements, for the break-even period (First 600 miles)?
Will Unleaded 87 be OK during that period. What is the recommended suggestion.

Thanks
PHK

stickguy · June 2007

regular (87) is recommended. No reason to use anything else, even for the break in period.

rrbhokies · June 2007

We have an '05 EX with close to 30K on it. At slow speeds, like starting a turn after a stop sign, the steering wheel is kind of tight and "chunky" meaning that it doesn't seem to turn freely. Rather, it kind of jumps around a bit and is sluggish, making it a bit harder to turn. This also happens when braking or slow down to make a turn. Basically, anytime the speed is around 10mph or so.

Anyone experience anything like this? I'm not hearing noises or anything, and things seem to improve as speed increases.

rrbhokies · June 2007

Another problem we are experiencing with our '05 Odyssey is the front windows rattle, both on the driver's side and the passenger side. I've made sure that they are all the way up. The driver's side is so bad, that I often have to crack the window just a bit so that it won't rattle.

I've heard that the Odyssey seems to be suffering from body integrity issues (according to Consumer Reports), but does anyone know if this is a common problem and one that can be corrected? We have 30K on ours. Would it still be covered under 36K warranty?

dsrtrat2 · June 2007

I just resolved a similar problem. A front tire had a nail in it and the pressure was down to 19 psi from the usual 35-37 psi. Tire patched and inflated correctly. Problem solved.

Take your van to a dealer and tell them to fix the rattles. It should be under warranty.

hondalova · June 2007

Dealer has had my car for 11 days now - the service manager himself is working on the car. We have an '07 Pilot-LX as a loaner (can't stand it - want my Ody back already!).

Manager brought in a tech from Honda who spent three days working on the car, running a billion electronics checks, but could not find anything wrong. So he threw it back in the service department's lap. Not to impressed with Honda support so far, though the manager says he's been in close touch with Tech-Line and that they've been a big help.

So far, as near as he can tell, the knocking sound is NOT pre-ignition, but rather a valve that is not traveling up and down the way its supposed to and is, as a consequence, tapping the head. We're nearing the limits of my technical expertise, but I think I understand it so far.

Will report to this board when we find out what it is finally. Ironically, my wife noticed that the Pilot-LX loaner she's driving, with the same 3.5 V-6 as in her EX (though different tranny)....is knocking too!

-FS

odymike · June 2007

Mine used to do this. Would take to dealer and they would fix if for a few months. What is it? The window seats into a J channel type of rubber seal. This is lubricated with silicone grease, once it wears off - you get the rattle you are experiencing. I got tired of taking it to the dealer, and was unable to cure with my own resources (WD-40, silicone spray, etc).

You need the Honda Shin-Etsu grease. Only a little dab will do you.

1. Put the window down
2. Take some Windex and spray onto a paper towel and clean out the channel.
3. Apply a very small amount of grease to a paper towel and run along the channel.
4. Put window up and down a few times and that should do it.

http://www.handa-accessories.com/odymaint05.html

pkirangi · June 2007

Thanks Stickguy.

hondalova · June 2007

Service manager replaced one of the rocker arms, which seems to have quelled the noise, at least for now. We'll see how it goes.

-FS

pkirangi · June 2007

Hello All,
I have a brand new 07 Odyssey RES/Navi. I purchased it around 5 miles, and it has about 250 miles on it now. I noticed that when driving on a straigth road, I have to keep my steering wheel very slightly turned to the rigth, to keep the vehicle in a straigth line. Is that a allignment issue? Do I need to be concerned?

Thanks,
PHK

rrbhokies · June 2007

Congrats on your '07 CRV!!

Does your steering wheel naturally want to be turned slightly to the right? If it goes there naturally, then it's possible it's just your steering wheel that needs to be centered. Otherwise, if you have to move the steering wheel to the right to keep a straight line, then yes, it could be your alignment, in which case, the dealer should cover it for free for the first 12K miles.

Also, be sure that you weren't dealing with a situation where there was a crown in the road, in which case, the right lane will want to pull your car right, or the left lane will want to pull your car left.

pkirangi · June 2007

Thanks rrbhokies,
In either case I will have it checked by the dealer.

Thanks,
PHK

pkirangi · June 2007

There used to be topic "Honda Odyssey Extended Warrenty Discussions" . I dont see it now. Has it been moved?

Thanks
PHK

mark60050 · June 2007

Hi,

I have a 2000 Odyssey which I purchased in Sept 1999. It only has 79K miles. According to the owner's manual the timing belt should be replaced after 7 years. I was wondering if it was a necessary change or whether I could hold off a couple of years since the dealer suggests it cost $750. Moreover, he says checking it for wear costs about half. Note, I am still well under the 105K mile recommended change.

By the way, has anyone tried having their timing belt replaced by someone other then the dealer?

Thanks

dsrtrat2 · June 2007

Bad things can happen if the timing belt fails. Check around for better prices from Honda dealers. I've found a dealer that charges $400.00 and you can get 10 or 15% coupons off from their internet site also.

I checked with one independent shop and their price was same as most dealers.

They should check out the water pump and idler pulley while they have it apart and probably replace the drive belts at that time also.

robr2 · June 2007

They should check out the water pump and idler pulley while they have it apart...

You might as well replace those parts while they are doing it. They have to come out to replace the belt so it's cheap to do it now.

orlandofl · June 2007

mark60050, I have a 2000 Odyssey, and just went through the same dilemma that you're going through; same mileage, same age.

I agree with dsrtrat2 and robr2. You should have them replace the water pump at the same time.

The reason that it's so expensive is the amount of time that it takes. I bought the official service manual and when I read through all the steps involved, I knew I was in over my head.

The reason that you change the water pump at the same time is because, if the water pump fails AFTER you've changed the timing belt, you have to get in there, again, with the same labor charge.

I phoned around and found an independent shop that would replace the timing belt AND the water pump and tensioner belt and seals for $675 ($575 timing belt only). I believe your price of $750 from the dealer was just for the timing belt.

I went for it because I've heard too many horror stories about a broken timing belt. After talking to quite a few people about this, they all claimed that we should easily get 200,000 miles out of these Hondas.

I justified the investment by thinking that maybe my van was only half way through its life. After seeing what a 2000 Odyssey is currently worth (not much), I figure it's worth it to keep it for another 7 years (if possible.)

Also, when you consider how much I've spent on maintenance over the course of 7 years, it's been very little. I've been lucky and have never had a major issue with my van.

I found Orlando Honda-Acura, which is run by 2 former Honda service technicians. They're eager to grow their business and they did a great job at a great price (gotta give 'em a plug.)

I hope you're able to find a local shop in your area. Good luck.

user777 · June 2007

another option, call around to various dealers. see if they have coupons on-line. they don't all charge the same for this sort of maintenance.

ocuihs · June 2007

DAYCO Part # 84093 {Water Pump Driven by Timing Belt,Interference Engine / Timing Belt Not Included}
Kit ---> $48.79

HONDA Part # 14400P8AA02OE {Timing Belt #14400P8AA02} --> $44.79

jashelton · June 2007

My wife started having trouble a couple of months ago getting her '03 Odyssey out of Park. I took off the plastic steering column cover yesterday and noticed a part that was not moving that was supposed to move when the brake was applied. Any ideas on what needs to be done?

mom24asds · July 2007

We took our 2001 odyssey to Tunex the other day for a tune-up. It has about 87,500 miles. When my husband picked up the van, after about a block of driving he noticed that the SRS light was on. He immediately took it back to Tunex who told him, (of course) that the SRS light suddenly turning on had nothing to do with them. They changed the spark plugs and that's about it. Any ideas on why the SRS light would go on all of the sudden? oh yea, my husband also mentioned that the seatbelt (driver's) was stuck and he had to pull on it two or three times to get it to come out. Could that have been something from Tunex, or is it a problem w/the seatbelts in 2001's? Thanks

user777 · July 2007

which light? the one on the instrument cluster, or the one on the dash closest to the rear fan speed control?

mom24asds · July 2007

The one on the instrument cluster by the other lights that go on and off as you start up the engine - by the speedometer

hondalova · July 2007

Posted 'bout this a while ago. My 2007 Ody-EX (no cylinder deactivation) has been knocking (I mean clattering - badly).

Dealer had the car nearly two-weeks and had Honda techline and a rep from Honda check it out - finally replaced a rocker arm in the front cylinder bank and pronounced it fixed. However, car continues to knock under load (if I put in drive, step on the brake, and feed gas until the RPM's load up to around 2000 rpm, its easy to hear).

We tried topping off a 5/8 full tank of regular gas with C-16 (racing fuel, 116 octaine) and the knocking pretty much stopped, only to gradually return as the tank emptied.

I know that, normally, the solution for knocking is to up the fuel-to-air ratio. Service manager (who was working on the car himself) says car was "stoichiometric" (he defined as "ideal air/fuel ratio") when the Honda Rep scoped it on their laptop, that increasing the fuel ratio will mess with my (already poor) mileage, and that he does not have the software to adjust the ratio without bringing Honda Rep guy back anyway.

My questions are:

(1) How much beyond "Stoichiometric" can we safely increase the fuel-to-air ratio without totally trainwrecking mileage figures, and

(2) Is the service manager's inability to make that adjustment without a Honda Rep coming back true or just BS?

I should add that I like this service manager - he certainly seems like he's been trying to fix it (spent a lot of time on it and explaining things to me) and I don't want to call Honda Corporate and get them breathing down his neck.

Oh - almost forgot - as far as I know, he checked the knock-sensor and found nothing wrong with it.

However, I want my car fixed already as we are leaving for a long road-trip in two weeks.

What say y'all?

user777 · July 2007

yeah, ok, conceptually, if you put different fuel in the thing and it doesn't knock, i'd say, it's not adjusting the timing of the ignition to compensate for knock properly.

it's either the sensor, or wiring to same -or-
the PCM
or the MAF
or your timing is way off.

did they check the timing? have them prove to you it is correct now. after you have proof your timing is correct and it's in writing...

demand, i mean demand they swap your pcm and knock sensors out. maybe also the MAF.

i'd say it's not fixed, and possibly time to call corporate. i would not take the vehicle on a long road trip. in fact, it would not go on any trip, except back to the dealer, and possibly to a different dealer if i had to.

hondalova · July 2007

PCM has already been changed (remember? A while back you and I had a discussion where you the PCM issue on this car confused with the check engine light issue I've been having on my '04 Accord V-6). Don't know if they changed the knock-sensor or just tested it.

-FS

user777 · July 2007

ok, so my memory isn't very good.

now then, they check the sensor and it's ok, and they replace the pcm.

now i'm thinking something in the wiring harness from / to the pcm is faulty.

of course, this doesn't rule out the possibility the timing is still not right.

then there is the issue of the MAF which could be mis-metering the air intake.

user777 · July 2007

did they check your spark plugs? are all the plugs intact? do they have the proper gap?

dsrtrat2 · July 2007

Have an '06 ODY with 62k miles. Have changed the ATF at 30k and 60k. New tires recently. Car sounds like you are driving on a brick street until you get below 20 MPH. Had it in for an oil change today and couldn't duplicate the sound while on a test drive.

Any ideas what could be causing this? The sound was there before I put on the new tires.

fqadri · July 2007

I got a great quote for 2007 odyssey EX from MD dealership sports honda,MD Total OTD = $26442.00 (Including all fees). I live in VA and was wondering do I have to pay my VA taxes again at the DMV. Is there any disdvantages buying it from MD dealer while I live in VA ??

stickguy · July 2007

You pay the taxes to the state where you register the car.

If you buy in MD., the only way you should pay the dealer taxes is if they are collecting for VA, and doing the VA DMV work. It is actually fairly common I think for dealers close to the obrder to do this.

If the MD dealer doesn't collect taxes, you will have to pay them at VA DMV when you register.

Be real careful if you are comparing OTD prices from dealers in each state. The VA one might be including all your taxes, and the MD one might not be. Get a detailed breakdown.

This is actually a question best directed at the dealer where you plan to buy the car. They certainly will know.

gotamps · July 2007

Hi,

Call me a conspiracy theorist but I think the scheduled maintenance scared into us by dealers is overkill. Am I wrong? The 2 dealers near me want close to $500 for a 30k mile service. I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey, and have performed regular oil changes and tire rotations. My 2005 Odyssey is now at 45k miles on the odometer, I just replaced all 4 original tires - and am wondering what are really the maintenance things I should do to it. I think dealer servicing is a rippoff with a capital R. What do people think about having theirs serviced at local service stations? Are they as good? My Odyssey is out of warranty now anyhow, so I am just interested in doing what is necessary as cheaply (I'm cheap) as possible.

Recommendations?

Thanks!!! :shades:

Honda Odyssey Care and Maintenance

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