Mazda MPV: Care & Maintenance

john269 · April 2007

My dealer recommended cleaning the fuel injectors on my 2003 MPV (for about $100) at 15K and 30K and I declined both times. It is now time for 45K, and I wonder whether others out there think that this is worth it - I do not see it listed in the handbook as a necessary service item.

Thanks

jipster · April 2007

I don't think it necessary if the van is running fine. Buy a $15 dollar bottle of the Techron Fuel Injection cleaner if you are concerned. Better than paying the dealership $100.

tcc21 · June 2007

I know this is an age old question but my check eng. light came on over the weekend for no apparent reason...other than maybe for a 'scheduled maint'? Should I be concerned and run for the dealer immediately or just ignore it for a while.
Vehicle runs fine....fingers crossed!

My new front rack is still solid after 2000 miles on it.
Thank God for the extended warranty I bought!
Hope that if the tranny goes it goes in the next 18K miles!!

jipster · June 2007

I'd get it looked at. Autozone will check it for free.

The one thing I do know to check for is to make sure that the gas cap is on tight. My check eng. light came on in my Buick and that was the problem.

backy · July 2007

My 2002 MPV just turned 5 and is nearing its 60k service interval. I know this is the Biggie but on the MPV it doesn't seem to be as major as on some cars, e.g. no timing belt replacement needed and not even a transmission flush is mentioned in the maintenance schedule. So my question is, what services other than the Mazda recommended services should I do at 60k? Should I do a tranny flush for example? (note, the van has a bumper-to-bumper, zero deductible warranty on it) I'll do a tire rotation since it's due for that, and at the 52.5k service they noted the brakes were getting thin, so those might need work (although no mention of a problem at 56.25k even though they said they looked at the brakes). Also planning on changing the air filters (engine and cabin). Anything else? Also can anyone give me an idea of what a dealer charges for the 60k service?

tcc21 · July 2007

I'm the one that had the CHECK ENGINE light on a while ago.
Finally went into my friendly Bear dealer to see what the issue would be and held my breath. Well, the problem was a collapsed PCV hose assembly with a crack! This had been fixed before at 36K miles under the RECALL!! Now they would not replace it unless I paid the $290 for the diagnostic and the $86 part!! I got on the phone with Customer Service and they acted shocked that it would not be covered, but only would offer me a $100 GIFT CERTIFICATE to use on future Mazda work!! My extended MAZDA warranty - the one that has been so good in the past, would not cover this hose issue....normal maintenance..right!!!
My biggest issue is that Mazda will not stand behind a recalled and previously fixed part on a SECOND REPAIR! I've never heard of this before. I've owned Dodges, Toyotas, Chevy's and they all always repair the item since they know it's a bad design. Mazda sucks it and they won't budge!
Anyone else had this issue before???
Sincerely disgusted Mazda owner with a lemon in the making at 83K miles. If anyone else has had this issue, we should get together and form a group to send letters to the boys of M and let them know this is not right!

tcc21 · July 2007

They charge alot! $300 at least...so be ready.
The cabin filter is about 100 alone to change.
I bought mine aftermarket out of a Mazda parts place in TX. and had them install. Price was discounted on the part to $45 and the labor was $20. Other than that, they want plugs changed that don't need changing until 100K miles, filter, tire stuff, etc. Be ready. I have the no deduct. warranty too and am flying on that to save some of the pain for the future. Can you tell I'm a bit peeved at MAZDA due to my other issue mentioned on an earlier email? :mad:

backy · July 2007

Thanks. Maybe I'll go ahead and change the air/cabin filters myself and try to save a few bucks. I know how to access the air filter, not sure on the cabin filter. I'll watch out on the plugs also--we'll be getting rid of the van before 100k miles (before the transferrable warranty expires) so I might not change the plugs if it will be pricey, and if it's not required by the Mazda service schedule. Tires are good (non original), but brakes may need work (not unexpected for 60k miles). The van is working just fine, fortunately. Bought it used last year. Maybe I got a good one.

bob57 · July 2007

You're probably going to hate me with this one...

My 2001 "Red" turned 107,500 (or more - I forget) last week. I have replaced the battery twice, the plastic water reservoir tank (leaked like a sponge), and the drive belt once. Other than that - it ain't broke...yet. It starts just fine on the first spin (Looking where the plugs are located (eeek) hasn't excited me - so haven't touched them). I drive mostly freeways (in Houston more like 4 lane parking lots) and consistent 21~22 MPG with A/C on all the time (Remember - Houston...).

Of course, Something may go south soon but so far this has been the best auto I've owned. Someone at the factory really did this one right.

subearu · July 2007

'02+ can have issues with the coils on each plug, especially the rear bank. Tranny fluid should be changed at 60k, at least every 20-30k miles. The cabin and air filters are DIY-ers, no doubt. Glove box just needs to come out for the cabin filter (multiple screws on the glove box). The air filter is just a matter of unsnapping the air box clamps and moving the top far enough off to remove and install the new filter. Be careful with any hoses and connections around the air filter when moving it around.

-Brian

backy · July 2007

Thanks. So far, the engine purrs along nicely, getting good fuel economy (24-25 mpg on highway trips), so it seems the coils are ok. I've taken the air filter off before to check it, but haven't messed with the cabin filter yet.

jipster · July 2007

I took my MPV in for an oil change about a month ago. I got a brochere that lists "recommended" services for the 60k service. It was about $460... or $530.... can't recall which. Seemed a bit of a rip off to me though. A lot of inspect this and check that. Have you had your coolant changed? I had my trans. flushed at 24k miles. Even though Mazda does not list a recommendation I would certainly flush at 60k.

jipster · July 2007

No one is going to hate you bob. We are joyful that your MPV has been the best auto you've owned. I've owned mine for just over 3 years... just turned over 30k miles.

I am looking to replace my original OEM Dunlops soon...if that makes anyone feel any better.

bob57 · July 2007

Er..ah..make that 110,500. (Note to self, have eyes checked and move closer to work..)

I put Goodyear Assurance on my van about 30K ago (insert Bob rechecks mileage here) - very nice tires-smooth-good handling in rain (Houston, again..) 80K warranty. I haven't seen any wear yet.

backy · August 2007

I took my 2002 MPV in for its 60k service yesterday. Total cost was just over $500. That is very steep, I know, considering what they did: tranny flush/fill, coolant flush/fill, new air and cabin filters, oil/filter change, full inspection, tire rotation (I told them not to do it as it was just done, but they didn't deduct anything for not doing it), throttle body cleaning (I argued about that, but the service writer was pretty insistent on the value of it), and a few other things. I declined an extra $149 for a "fuel system cleaning"; I'll put some cleaner in the gas tank and save about $146.

I knew going in that it would be at least $399, not including the cabin filter or TB cleaning. The only reason I went ahead with it is that doing the 60k service at this dealership enrolled me in their "free oil changes for life" program. I figure I'll have the van for nearly 4 more years (until the extended warranty expires) and about 11-12 oil changes. At $25 a pop, that's about $300 right there. Plus they do a thorough inspection during oil changes and a free wash. So I thought that overall it was worth it.

Oh, and I asked them about a problem with the fuel gauge not reading Full, and they said the fuel sending unit is bad and ordered the part. The extended warranty will take care of that one.

jipster · August 2007

Any other requirements for the oil change for life? I had to do tire rotations and other manufacturer and dealer recommended services to remain qualified for the tires for life program.

Also, unless they were giving you a discount on the 60k service, I would ask for $28 (or whatever they charge) back for the non tire rotation.

backy · August 2007

At this dealership (Walser Mazda, Burnsville, MN), I think all you need to do is either buy the car there or have the 60k service done there. The oil services are at 3750 mile intervals. Maybe they'll make me do the 90k service there to stay in the program, but since I only put 10k a year on the van, that won't be for 3 years. Oh, I didn't mention I got a free loaner for the day also. And a free wash (and it needed it).

Actually now that I think of it, they may have taken something off for the non-rotation, since they originally quoted me $399 for the 60k service and then added the cabin filter replacement ($69 including filter) and the throttle-body cleaning.

notsosmart · August 2007

Hey All,

Are there any special tools needed when doing a break job on a 2004 MVP? I will be changing the Break Pads and Rotors for both front and read wheals. One of my also not so smart buddies said I may need a tool for the Rear Calapers?????? PLEASE HELP

annai · September 2007

I have a 2000 MPV, which was fairly reliable till lately. We replaced the alternator a couple of months ago, and two weeks ago it died on a highway. We had it towed to the dealership, where they diagnosed the engine as dead. To replace it with a used one would be $3K. I don't have the extended warranty. The car was serviced pretty regularly, at least, with oil changes. The funny part is that we had our mechanic look at it a couple of days prior to this happening, and scheduled a 60K tune up for the day after it died. Has anyone heard of an engine dead at such low mileage? I did have an accident about 4 years ago - a huge truck backed into me. Could this have anything to do with it?

backy · September 2007

Can you be more specific about how the engine "died"? If it is something that could be traced to a design flaw, vs. improper maintenance, you could push Mazda to replace the engine (at least share the cost).

jipster · September 2007

I've read a lot of posts on the MPV, can recall maybe one where the engine died. I'd say the huge truck that backed into you was the precepatator.

annai · September 2007

The dealership told us that they don't know the exact reason until they open it up, which will cost a fair amount as well. At this point we are not sure that it is worthwhile, although this might be a mistake.

annai · September 2007

Thank you.

d5a · September 2007

I'm starting to think Mazda due to the MPV having the ford engine its not as reliable as i had wished. Also finding out Mazda dealers dont fix things correctly. I have 8,500 on my MPV and the engine sounds horrible like its running rough. And the steering is loose. Not happy at all. The funny thing is I took it into the dealership for a 7,500 check up and it came out worse then when it went in. I called the dealership and of course they say its all my fault. Not very customer service driven. Regret buying the honda. I took a chance and after seeing the issues from other owners like you I fear mine wont do much better. Being hit from behind should have nothing to do with it at all. Its been four years since you had your acceindent and the engine was not hit and after all that time the dealership would have seen issues due to your acceindent by now. Oups sorry we are talking about mazda how could i forget. Maybe they did miss something lol. Sorry for your issues with yours doesnt make me feel better about owning one.

jimmy28 · October 2007

HELP..Water is accumulating on driver's side mat I assume from a/c. Mechanic blew out hose, it is not clogged. It hasn't been raining. It seems to accumulate while driving as opposed to standing still. Any thoughts or experience with this problem

subearu · October 2007

Aren't the AC lines and whatnot on the passenger side? The HVAC cabin filter is behind the glove box, which is where the condenser is, IIRC.

Do you have a moonroof? Perhaps one of the drains which run down each of the front pillars is clogged or broken?

-Brian

jimmy28 · October 2007

Thanks for response...I do not have moon roof. I'll mention your idea of pillar drains to mechanic.

subearu · October 2007

You'd only have the drains *if* you had a moonroof. So that is not the cause.

I suppose a bad front windshield seal could cause water to come into the cabin. Not common, but plausible.

The best way to try and isolate this is to start testing with a garden hose (or an automatic car wash!), directing water at the windshield, cowl, driver door, etc. If none of that yields water in the cabin, then try running the AC for an extended period (preferably when it's humid out so that it condenses more).

-Brian

ag02 · March 2008

02 mpv w/ 70,000 miles. noise is like squirrels under the hood. noise doesn't change when rev-ving up the engine. turning on ac doesn't effect it. timing belt? alternator?

jlord50 · May 2008

Hi,

I want to remove the front passenger seat in a 2001 Mazda MPV. The
owner's manual doesn't contain any instructions. Has anyone here
done it before? I found the four bolts hidden under platic caps,
but I am a little concerned about messing up the airbag/sensor.
Any help would be appreciated!

toby_lai · August 2008

Hi all,

I have a 2001 MPV that has 70k miles on it (mostly highway miles), and there has been no issue/problem with the automatic transmission, and partly because the owner's manual does not mention any scheduled change of ATF and partly of my negligence, I have not had any ATF change on the transmission from day 1.

I've done some research on the internet on having the ATF change, and there are a lot of theories out there on when to change and what type of change to perform (just fluid change, drop pan and filter, and what not), and some even suggest not to do any ATF change if no maintenance has been done to the transmission because new fluid will cause the tranny to fail, and should just leave the fluid alone (if this theory is true). I just want to ask you all for your opinion on what to do? I took out the dipstick and examine the fluid, it's still mostly red (if that is any kind of indication). And why does owner's manual not mention any scheduled maintenance to the ATF fluid (except to examine it twice a year, that's all I could find), should I just leave everything alone for the time being? I can't imagine leave the fluid in there and not change it at all, but don't want to risk a still working tranny. Thanks for any opinion/suggestion.

tl

ag02 · August 2008

this page might be helpful.....

http://www.aa1car.com/library/atf.htm

you're right - zip info in owners manual

jipster · August 2008

You're right, many opinions on when and how to change ATF. Owners manual implies none is needed unless fluid looks or smells bad (burned). If I were you I'd either do nothing, the 2001 transmissions seem to be more reliable than the later models, or do the drain and fill. I wouldn't do a flush at that age and mileage.

toby_lai · August 2008

Thanks for the replies (jipster and ag02).

Couple of questions for you jipster. I checked the fluid from the dipstick, and dropped a couple on a piece of paper towel, the fluid shows a light brown color (after spreaded out) and I don't think it smells burned (well I don't exactly know how the "burned" smell is. 1) If I don't do anything, eventually the ATF is going to breakdown and needs to be changed, is that right? Then at that time I will have to replace/change the fluid anyway? 2) Why is it you wouldn't do a flush? Is that because a flush would replace all the fluid rather than the drain and fill method, and that wouldn't be good for the a tranny that age and mileage, and you want to leave some old fluid in the tranny?

Thanks in advance.

toby_lai · August 2008

BTW, does anyone know if the 2001 MPV has a ATF drain plug underneath? If not, how would one do a drain and fill of ATF by himself?

jipster · August 2008

I checked the fluid from the dipstick, and dropped a couple on a piece of paper towel, the fluid shows a light brown color

hmmm, I have a 2004 MPV LX, which currently has about 44,000 miles. It showed light brown transmission fluid on the dipstick at about 26,000 miles. I went ahead and did a transmission flush and filter change, at 26k miles, to be on the safe side.
I'm in the better safe than sorry camp when it comes to the MPV transmission. Will probably do another flush at 50k or 60k miles. Currently the fluid color is still reddish pink.

If I don't do anything, eventually the ATF is going to breakdown and needs to be changed, is that right?

Right. I'm not an expert, but trans. fluid turning brown is not a good sign to me. It's starting to break down or pick up contaminants.

Why is it you wouldn't do a flush?

What I have read as that a flush "may" loosen some of the materials (on older/high mileage vehicles without any prior trans. fluid changes) stuck on gaskets etc, which then in turn may clog up certain parts of the transmission leading to failure. Some mechanics say this is baloney, and a flush will do no harm, others swear to the fact. Changing out all the fluid at the same time should not be a problem.

I didn't have any problems after a flush when my trans. fluid showed brown. So, if you feel comfortable with a flush go ahead and do it.

Although I wouldn't necessarily rush to have anything done, I would definitely have the fluid changed under the circumstances you just described (brownish fluid). The only question would be whether to do multiple drain and fills (removes a couple quarts at a time), a pan drop and fill, or the flush. I'm not real familiar with the 2001 MPV, which has the 4 speed transmission.... while the 2002 and up have the 5 speed. So, not sure if all those methods would be available to you.

If you google mpvclub you should find some more information on how to change out the fluid yourself if you are so inclined. Good luck and keep us posted.

toby_lai · August 2008

Today I had a ATF flush at a Mazda dealer, and so far everything's good. The shifting seems to be a tad smoother, and I'm keeping an eye on everything, including if there's any leaking going on (I wiped off some fluid near the area of the what I think is the ATF drain plug near the ATF pan. I'm suspecting the dealer tech did the flush through the plug and the new fluid was splashing all over the place, resulting some "leftover" fluid.

After 70k miles, I think the condition of the old fluid wasn't that bad (it showed very light brown but the smell was more or less the same as the supposedly new fluid right now, showing clear pinkish color).

toby_lai · August 2008

Hi all again,

Recently I've started to notice some coolant outside of the overflow plastic reservoir, the area below the overflow tank and the power steering tank. Initially I wiped off the traces of the coolant and I thought it could come from the little hose out of the plastic overflow tank when the engine was running hot, but then again I started seeing traces of coolant again. And then I used a piece of small paper towel to wipe the area clean again and I discovered there was more coolant traces on the *bottom* of the plastic tank (I managed to get my hand underneath some connecting hose through to the bottom of the coolant reservoir). I'm suspecting there might be some leakage at the bottom of the plastic container (is it possible and how a crack could come up there?). I'm paying close attention to the level of the coolant now and see if it gets dropped (which doesn't seem to be the case though).

In case the plastic container really is leaking, is it a big job to replace it? I'm no mechanic, have only done the oil changes myself and tire rotation, in addition to the front disc pads job on the MPV, and I'm wondering if I can replace it myself. The tank itself only seems to be held by a couple of screws and connected to some hoses. Thanks for any suggestion/opinion.

tl

sramamur1 · November 2008

Below -5C, doors freeze on my Mazda 2003 MPV. Even the key hole is plugged and have to wriggle the key in and rock it back and forth to open the door latch. The back doors stay frozen and do not thaw until after three or four hours of driving. My kids use the front door to go through.

This seems to be a common problem for MPV. Any suggestions on improving this situation?

Thanks, Sri.

backy · November 2008

I live in MN and did not notice this problem driving a 2002 MPV through a couple of winters, including one real cold one. What I do with all my cars is, each fall, apply a silicone lubricant (Armor All or the like) liberally to all gaskets with a cloth, and spray something like WD-40 into all locks. Of course, if you have something like an ice storm, even that won't help you much.

sramamur1 · November 2008

Thank you for your suggestions. I will try with silicone lubricant and WD 40 and see how it goes.

Sri.

eurizar · July 2009

Hi, my name is elizardo, im from guatemala, i just need to know how i place my 5 tire under my van, cuz i bought it and it didnt have one, so i just bought a new 5 tire for emergency and i know where to put it but my question is how.

Thanks anywayz

eurizar · July 2009

hi, my name is elizardo and i have an MPV van 2001 and i just like to know where to put the 5 tire under the van. I know where tu put it, my question is how. I dont have manual either so i just need some adivise because im looking how to place this tire

Thanks for ur help...

tobeyl · August 2009

I'm facing this problem now. I have the grill cover loose, trying to go in from the front, and the battery out but the plastic pipe is still in the way. Did you get any reply to your questions?

tcc21 · August 2009

I have the 2003 LX version with rear heat and AC. I heard there was a recall on the lines rusting out on the rear of these units years ago. Well, mine finally has that problem after 120K miles! I noticed droppings on the garage floor from just ahead of the tail pipe and behind the rear wheel. :mad: I took it to a local mechanic and he took the inner liner off the rear pass. side wheel well and there they were - two metal tubes totally rusted off!! Has anyone else had this issue and has Mazda stood behind replacing them?? I KNOW this was an issue brought up here back in 2004-05 I believe. What a dumb design! All that dirt, salt, water sprays up in there and those metal tube soak it all up and rust away! Ugh! Another stupid design on these things! Price for fixing this at a local shop is $235! I'm sure Mazda will want much more....but darn! This is a known problem too! I will be calling them in the AM.

jipster · August 2009

The rear heat/ac liness are under recall, that means Mazda will fix for free. You should have gotten a notification about the recall in the mail. Take it to your Mazda dealership and they should handle it at no charge.The MPV Club has a lot of info on that particular recall.

bk1973 · September 2009

The driver side buttons for the rear windows are not working? Any ideas what it could be? I was thinking maybe fuse. If so, where are the fuses located?

Thanks

Mazda MPV: Care & Maintenance

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Mazda MPV: Care &amp; Maintenance

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Mazda MPV: Care & Maintenance