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Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care & Maintenance

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  • wish_wishwish_wish Member Posts: 1
    hi,
    the CD changer on my 2001 Pathfinder SE displays a "error2" message on the LCD display and it won't play nor reject the CDs in there. anyone experienced the same problem? i lost the owner's manual don't know if the error code is listed there. i may have to take it to the dealer, but i have a feeling this may be a simple fix. will the dealer charge me for this? the car has 32k on it so it's still under warranty.
    thanks in advance.
  • yordanyordan Member Posts: 4
    Do someone knows if its possible to addapt an AUTO DIMMING REAR VIEW MIRROR. I found severals websites that sells the item. But im not sure, maybe someone like me wonder why Nissan Corp. never thought of this. ANY SUGGESTIONS..
    THANKS
  • johnskevjohnskev Member Posts: 98
    I've also looked into getting an auto dimming mirror. The Nissan XTerra has one, so I'm assuming it must be possible to fit one for a Pathfinder. I've never looked into in deep into to find out what wiring would be needed or if any wiring is in place for one.
  • gvidogvido Member Posts: 8
    Hey guy, have any one reached 100K miles on your Pathfinders. I am looking into purchasing one with high miles. They say 1996 - 99 come with timing chain that needs no maintance and usulay lasts a lifetime of a car. Is that true???
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    96-00 Pathfinders (those that have the VG33 engine) have timing belts whose recommended replacement interval is 105,000 miles. The 01+ Pathfinders (VG35 engine) have timing chains.
  • pathstarpathstar Member Posts: 201
    Did the replacement last weekend. Reading the owners manual, I thought things would go very well compared to my 90 4Runner. The Pathfinder (2001) has two block drain plugs and two airlock release plugs. Just try to find the block drain plugs! The left side one is on the front of the engine, buried in a cavity about 1" deep (you can't see it, you have to feel for it - it needs a 12 mm socket - use a magnetic one if you can, to hold the plug). I didn't find the right side one, but I surmise it is above the engine mount and below the exhaust manifold (can't see in there and can't get a hand in there). I managed to change the fluid anyway by flushing with the garden hose until it ran clean (took four fill/drain cycles, including "reverse" flushing).

    It's done now for another two years, but I'd like to find the right hand block drain plug - anyone? I'd like to attach a pipe to it so it can be accessed. The left hand one just needs an extended plug. I used standard ethylene glycol coolant, and refilled with the stuff non-dilluted, as I couldn't get all the water out, until I had enough glycol in to give me better than 50% (I chose 60% as it tends to get rather cold here and I wanted really good corrosion protection). I put 6 litres in the 9 litre capacity system. To get the heater to work again, I had to actually drive the vehicle, as following the manual instructions didn't do it (air lock in the heater line - LE with automatic climate control).

    Not as bad as the 4Runner, as I -never- found the block drain plugs on it, even though they were shown in the shop manual.
  • jecklesjeckles Member Posts: 87
    Just a sobering reminder that most PF batteries need water. I checked my 2001 PF after a year and had to add more than a pint of distilled water! I clearly waited too long to check!!

    The plates were still covered, so no harm done; but don't be lazy (like me) about checking. Be sure to used distilled water if you add any (I keep plenty on hand for my radiator anyways...)
  • jecklesjeckles Member Posts: 87
    A word of caution:

    Be careful you don't get too much antifreeze in your system. Much beyond 50% and you start causing more trouble rather than preventing trouble...

    Antifreeze does not transmitt heat very well (water is much better and "Water Wetter" is great). If you never have hot summer days, then you might be okay.

    Antifreeze needs water to work! A 60% solution may not be harmful (Prestone says up to 70% is safe), but how often does the air temp get less than 50 degrees below zero Farenheit?

    (At those temps you'll need a good synthetic oil and a battery warmer just to start the car!!)

    You can check your actual coolant concentration with a hygrometer or test strips and adjust accordingly. My system came from the factory with too much coolant so I drained about 16 onces out and replaced with distilled water and Water Wetter. Even on 95+ degree days, pulling a 3500 lb trailer up a mountain, the engine is cool as a cucumber.
  • dasher2dasher2 Member Posts: 4
    I am about to purchase a 2002 Path SE. I normally perform basic maintenance on my vehicles. Oil, plugs, wires, air filter and brake pads. Can anyone comment on the level of difficulty for performing these tasks on the Paths? IE oil filter tough to access etc.... Thanks
  • jecklesjeckles Member Posts: 87
    Most of the maintenance is pretty straight forward and easy on the PF. No plug wires to worry about. Oil filter easy to reach. Trans & Diff fluids easy to change. I haven't flushed cooling system yet, but looks easy enough.

    Don't let maintenance worry you on these puppies!
  • dasher2dasher2 Member Posts: 4
    Jeckles. Thanks for the input. I am feeling pretty good about this. Hopefully the dealer can find the PF I want. I found out there is a timing chain and not a belt. Joy.
  • rthayerrthayer Member Posts: 10
    my son's 99.5 Pathfinder has apparently a bad
    alternator as the voltmeter when running doesnt
    show the 14.3 v output but just the 12v from the
    battery which runs the car for about 10 minutes
    before dying for lack of recharge. Anyone have
    an idea as to a source for heavy duty alternators
    or guides to its replacement? I will get a Chilton
    manual but are there better ones?
    I should note that he put in a very large sound system that apparently went over the limit for the factory electrical system. This is not a
    nissan fault: he did it. Now we have to undo it.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    I think you can buy a high-current alternator from www.4x4parts.com. Check under "Performance"
  • jecklesjeckles Member Posts: 87
    Anybody upgraded their shocks yet. I really wanted to use the new Reflex or Edelbrock shocks, but can't find them for PF.

    Has anybody tried any other brands yet??
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    I'm using Rancho RS9000 5-way adjustable shocks. There's no Nissan application, but I just found the stock shock size and found a part number that matched. Visit my web site for info about the shocks I'm using. I have a link on my "shocks" page that lists the shock dimensions. If Edelbrock or Reflex have similar data, you may be able to just use those.
  • lancearmstronglancearmstrong Member Posts: 38
    Xplorx4's website (mentioned above) is http://www.dean.thayer.net/off-road/. Definitely going to pop on a transfer case skid plate for about $22, including shipping. Thanks, Dean!
  • sallyann1sallyann1 Member Posts: 3
    I just purchased a 2002 SE. The manual recommends 91 octane. One dealer I talked to also said to use 91 octane, yet another said that 87 would be just as effective. I know very little about engines and I want to use the formulation that will give me the best mpg for the least cost (who doesn't) without harming the engine. I have 650 miles on the vehicle (one week old), have put in 3 tanks of 91 octane, with an average of 10 mpg! (no jackrabbit starts and I maintain steady speeds as much as possible) Also, when accelerating (slowly) I notice pinging at low speeds (30-40). Does anyone have any words of wisdom for me?
  • mmvommvo Member Posts: 3
    I had my '98 Pathfinder SE in for a 60K service yesterday. The dealership said I needed new front struts because they were starting to leak. I elected not to have them replaced, as I have not noticed any ride problems or bouncing, nor do I notice any fluid on the strut...and besides, the dealer's price to replace the struts is quite high...so even if I actually needed them replaced I'd have it done elsewhere. I've always owned Japanese cars and have never had to replace struts at just 60K miles. Also, most of the miles on this vehicle are highway miles. Anyone else have to replace front struts at just 60K, or is my dealer trying to "stack the sale"?
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    I replaced my struts at 50K because they were leaking. I have a 97 LE. The early Pathfinders (96-98) did have some known issues with struts leaking. I've heard of this problem before, so your experience is not uncommon.

    However, if you're not noticing any ride quality differences, you could put it off. When you do decide to replace them, consider using a suspension shop or tire store to do the work. It will be considerably less expensive. (I believe even Pep Boys Auto will replace struts as well.)
  • lancearmstronglancearmstrong Member Posts: 38
    Unless you've got a gusher, you won't notice fluid leaking from the strut. It will just have an oily area near the top that accumulates road dust, so it just looks like a dirty ring around the top, which would be kind of hard to see.

    You might not notice a decline in ride quality with leaking struts because the change is slight and gradual. What you WILL notice, if they need replaced, is how much improved the ride is after they have been replaced.
  • jeg72jeg72 Member Posts: 18
    I have 30K on my '01 Pathfinder and just got back from a trip to the beach over the weekend. My friends riding in the back were getting killed every time we hit a bump or a dip in the Interstate. Granted the car was pretty loaded down. 4 people, 2 dogs and our stuff.

    I noticed the same thing in a friends PF a couple of weeks ago coming back from a football game. Again the PF was pretty loaded down 4 people and tailgating necessities. It felt to me as if the shocks/struts (don't know what it has) are bottoming out or something but the end result is a pain in your back.

    Is there something wrong with the design of this model or is there likely some problem. Anyone had to have rear suspension worked on under warranty? Anyone have similar experiences or solutions.

    Thanks.
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    I too have a 2001 PF & this is normal for them. The shocks/struts are very soft to give you a soft ride with one or two people. The downside to this is when you are loaded with more than this they bottom out on bumps.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    And, here's the solution:


    Eliminate bottoming out forever! CLICK ME!

  • lancearmstronglancearmstrong Member Posts: 38
    You can be smooth in an unloaded state and maintain height and prevent bottoming under load.

    Dean, is there a simpler option to use a garage compressor instead of an onboard compressor, which is, more complicated? Can you have a tire valve and inflate each side individually?
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Whether you use on-board air or fill up the airsprings at a gas station or garage is a matter of preference and planning.

    While it's certainly easier to install only the airbags, over time you may find that you wish you had a compressor.

    For example, let's say you haven't aired-up your springs (for everyday use) then on some random weekday you offer to drive some of your coworkers when you go out for your weekly off-site lunch. (yum!)

    Boom! Bottoming out... or... "Guys, I have to stop by the gas station and fill up my air springs" (Uh, yeah, right. Whatever... maybe Joe should drive instead...)

    But with the onboard compressor it's more convenient to adjust the air pressure as necessary.

    In answer to the question, can you inflate each side individually, yes you can. It just depends on how you route the air lines. The airlift instructions explain how to do this.
  • danpf1danpf1 Member Posts: 89
    I to have a 2001 PF LE AWD 4x4 and I had the same problem with bottoming out. I also installed the air life air springs without detaching anything, except the wheels. In order to do this you will need to purchase two items. 1: a right angle drill attachment, and 2: unibit step drill (1/2 to 1 inch in dia.). These two items will allow you to drill the 3/4 inch hole that is required by air lift, without removing the spring or shock.

    I lowered the axle as low as it would go with the PF sitting on jack stands, with rear wheels
    removed. Then removed the rubber bumpers with a 12mm socked wrench. then drilled out the existing hole in axle spring mount to 1/2 inch, using the angle drill attachment. Then continue to drill out the 1/2 inch hole with the steep drill to 3/4 inch. deburr the holes, mount the rubber spacer supplied with the kit install the air springs, by deflating the spring, then push the air bag between the spring opening. run your tubing through the rubber spacer and axle mount. then continue to hook up a compressor, or to a location of your choice without the compressor. you will find that there is plenty of room to push the springs through the metal coil springs, after deflating them. you can use any suction device to do this. took me about an hour to install the air bags, I connected each bag separate and ran the tubing to the side running boards, and attached the air fittings to a hole already in place in the bracket mount holding the running board to the PF.

    Give it a try. You can get the right angle drill attachment and the step drill from Harbor Freight, for about $40.00 total coast for both. it's the best thing I could do to give my PF a great ride. No more bottoming out and by hooking up the air bags up separate, no pressure rebounding. Which translates to better handling in tight turns.
  • sronald1sronald1 Member Posts: 1
    How do I program my 2001 Nissan Pathfinder Keyless entry
  • jsmith43jsmith43 Member Posts: 1
    Please advise on what to do?
    I have a 2001 LE, from day one I had a check engine light, the dealer fixed it at a price of $150, all they did was clean the fuel injectors. A couple of weeks later the light was on again, dealer said "air is going in through the gas tank which causes the light to turn on. Now 90K later the light is still on. A local mechanic suggests having the oxygen sensors replaced approx $100 each there are three.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Let me get this straight- you drove your brand-new SUV off the lot with the check engine light on??? Why did you do that? Should've not bought the truck!

    And then the dealer charged you $150 to fix it??? Ever heard of bumper-to-bumper warranty?

    And then 2 weeks later the light came back on... but you've been driving your truck for the last 89,000+ miles with the light on, and you're just asking now how to fix it??? I don't get it...

    Why don't you visit a shop that will read the code that is causing the light from the computer? Randomly replacing parts (such as the O2 sensor) won't guarantee the light will go out; the check engine light can be caused by nearly a hundred different reasons. Make sure you're fixing the right reason.

    BTW, the check engine light can be triggered by not tightening your gas cap sufficiently, so when you replace the cap after refueling, make sure to turn it until it clicks at least once....
  • baydogbaydog Member Posts: 15
    The dealer recently sold me the 15208-65F00 oil filter. Last year, they sold me the 15208-9E000 filter, which is noticeably bigger. Does it matter? Did Nissan change their oil filter suggestions?

    Thanks,
    Ryan
  • s4chicagos4chicago Member Posts: 3
    I live in Chicago and would like to switch to 100% synthetic. Does anyone know the weight/viscosity I should be using? I appreciate your help.

    Thanks....
  • pfownerpfowner Member Posts: 3
    I purchased a new 2003 LE a few days ago and 800 miles later, I have no complaints so far.
    However, I have noticed that the driver side of the car is about 1/2 inches lower than the passenger side.
    Is this normal ?

    Thanks
  • nissangirlnissangirl Member Posts: 186
    Welcome, and congrats on your new '03 Path! Hope you enjoy yours as much as we are enjoying our Paths!
  • thaines1thaines1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 PF and am having a problem getting the tires balanced properly. I have been told that the large center hub of the wheel makes it difficult to balance properly. I have even tried replacing the tire and nothing seems to help. The tires continue to vibrate from 63 mph to about 68 mph then smoothes out. Has anyone else had a similar problem that they were able to resolve?
  • bd70bd70 Member Posts: 30
    I just got myself a new '03 LE. Mine only has about 350 miles on it so far but I'm enjoying putting the miles on it, trying to get it broken in. I also have noticed that the driver side is 1/2 inch lower than the passenger side. pfowner, or anyone else, have you found the answer to this one? Is this normal. I have it parked on level ground, and even turned it 180 degrees around on the same surface just to make sure. Same problem either direction. I'm considering bringing it back as I've never heard of a new car having this kind of problem.
  • onboost91onboost91 Member Posts: 86
    Are the tire pressures the same on both sides?
  • bd70bd70 Member Posts: 30
    Yup, the tire pressure is the first thing I checked. I'd really hate to have to take the thing back since I love everything else about it.
  • onboost91onboost91 Member Posts: 86
    Well if it is sagging and its not the air pressure, then I'd think it has to be something with the suspension. That should definately be covered by the warranty I'd think.

    I would atleast have your dealer take a look at it. If your suspension is really off it could be hazardous to drive.
  • mchinmchin Member Posts: 22
    Hi all,
    I brought a used LE 01 PF. When I turn on the climate control, I notice a low humming noise. Has anyone come across this?
  • bd70bd70 Member Posts: 30
    Its probably noise coming from the A/C compressor that you are describing. If you switch to economy mode, does it go away?
  • mchinmchin Member Posts: 22
    I did not try that yet. I will let you know. Thanks bd70.
  • mchinmchin Member Posts: 22
    I tried the economy mode but still hear the noise.
  • rc2001rc2001 Member Posts: 4
    I just drained and refilled the auto trans of my wife's 01PF (25K miles). 3 1/2 qts drained out and I put the same amount in, using Nissan's Dyna-matic D fluid. I thought about using Mobil 1's ATF but I don't have a lot of info on synthetic ATF so I took the safe route. Next project: drain and refill coolant.
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    Hey RC2001... nice timing on your post. I just had the coolant flushed & filled & I'm about to drain & refill the transmission. I'm going to use Mobil 1 ATF so we'll see if it makes a difference. It's amazing how little transmission fluid drains out. Total capacity on the 2001 PF is 9 qts. So when you drained 5 1/2 qts remained in the torque converter. Kinda makes you wonder if it's really doing any good... & makes those transmission fluid exchange services look good. I'll also be draining & re-filling the front & rear differential & transfer case & re-packing the front wheel bearing grease. Fun, fun, fun...
  • rc2001rc2001 Member Posts: 4
    You probably know it already but don't forget to buy the copper crush washer for your ATF drain plug. When I went to the dealer to buy the ATF, I asked the technician if I need a new washer for the plug and he said he doesn't know and he turned around and asked an older technician if a washer is required and he responded that I don't need a washer. Guess what, when I pulled the drain plug, it comes with a crush washer. Lucky for me, I bought extras for my oil drain plug. I'm still doing my research on coolant replacement. I found one of the air valve (by the firewall) and I think I found both engine block drain plugs (not sure yet). The one on the left is hard to get at. I agree with you...fun, fun,
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    Hey RC2001, actually I didn't know there would be a crush washer on the ATF drain... thanks. So can I use the same crush washer as the oil drain takes? Also, has anyone re-packed the front wheel bearing grease? It calls for it at 30,000 miles & looking at the service manual it looks like disassembly is required. Can anyone give me some help?
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    This procedure is somewhat time-consuming and quite messy. It does involve complete disassembly of the front hubs, but it's not difficult if you're somewhat mechanically inclined.

    Remove the 4WD hub according to the instructions shown at the link below (which details how to replace the full-time hubs with manual hubs). Mind only the details discussing removal of the outer hub.
    http://groups.msn.com/xplorx4/modwarnpremiummanualhubs.msnw

    Then, continue to remove the bearings as shown here:
    http://www.rkrenn.com/xterra/howto/bearing/bearing.htm
    Ignore anything discussing the automatic hub.

    You'll still probably need to buy new grease seals.
  • pathstarpathstar Member Posts: 201
    I found the left side block drain plug deep in a recess on the front of the engine. Look for a "hole" about 1 1/2" in size and about the same depth on the left front of the engine, about 1/3 to 1/2 of the way down. It's actually hinted at in the owners manual. If you remove it watch out, because it will be very hard to put it back. I had to put a tiny powerful magnet inside the socket to hold it as I carefully inserted it into the hole (I first tryed without the magnet, but it fell off and it took me 30 min. to find it in the convolutions of the engine). I never found the right side one. I want to find a replacement for the left side plug that is about 1" long, so you can more easilly see it to remove, and so you can practically put it back (without fear of loosing it).

    If you find the right side one, please let us know where it is. I suspect it is under the engine mount.

    This is where Japaneze auto. companies fall flat (had the same problem with my former 1990 4Runner and never found the plugs in 11 years of searching). They need to make them easier to find, or run a tube to a place where it is accessable and put the plug there in the end of the tube!
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    Hey XPLORX4, thanks a lot for the detailed instructions. Should be a big help. Just want to make sure it would be the same for a 2001 PF LE w/ AWD. I'm not sure what your's is or what the pics came from. Again, thanks a lot...
  • rc2001rc2001 Member Posts: 4
    Smokey75 - Yes, you can use the same washer as the oil drain plug. The ATF drain plug has the same size in diameter as the oil plug.

    Xplorx4 - After viewing the links, I don't think I'll be doing bearing re-packing any time soon. I can do basic maintenance but I'm not that mechanically inclined. So far, I've changed the oil (per scheduled maintenance/65F00 filter/5W-30), air filter, in-cabin filters, rotated the tires twice, installed rear wind deflector and greased the shaft assy. Basic maintenance stuff. I dreaded the day I have to change the spark plugs.

    Pathstar - Thanks for confirming the location of the left engine drain plug. I have to use a mirror to locate it and yes, I only have the owner's manual figures to guide me. As for the other engine drain plug, it's on the right side underneath the exhaust manifold toward the front of the engine. This is even harder to get at. I'm not 100% sure though but I'll let you know when I get to it and actually loosen it.
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