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Nissan Pathfinder Owners Care & Maintenance

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Comments

  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    I have a 2001 PF & have been using Amsoil 5w-30 synthetic for two years now with 1 year oil change intervals. I have also used Amsoil oil & air filters. Prior to this I used Mobil 1 with 3 month change intervals. I'm not happy with the oil analysis I just received from Blackstone Labs after one year and 15,772 miles. Here are their comments:

    This oil was in use for too long a distance for this engine to handle as can be seen by the higher than average amount of wear metals (Iron 35ppm). The TBN was 0.0, showing no active additive in the oil. Silicon at 44 ppm is either from a silicone-based lube/sealer/gasket or it is dirt getting past the air filter, so check that out. Oil viscosity was higher than normal due to extended use. We suggest a 7500-mile oil change to help improve wear and check back to see the results.

    Anyone know of a silicon-based lube/sealer/gasket on the PF that could be causing the high silicon reading, or is it likely from dirt. What do you guys think about all this? Anyone else used extened drain intervals?
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    I've had good luck getting grease into mine. I just have to keep telling myself not to fill the driveshaft - one or two squirts is all it needs. I seem to recall getting a metric end for my grease gun years ago.

    Ok... I realize this is a really old message to be replying to but I was looking at some of my old bookmarked stuff. Pathstar1, you still alive? ;) So what would happen if you filled the front driveshaft with grease... errr.... hypothetically? :confuse:
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    My 2001 Pathfinder is approaching 105,000 miles and new spark plugs. Anyone changed theirs on a 2001? Is it pretty straightforward or anything different on this vehicle?
  • elder4elder4 Member Posts: 1
    My wife got a 1995 nissan pathfinder v6.I have crawled every where and cant find the oil filter.Can someone tell me exacly where it is.
  • lemonhater1lemonhater1 Member Posts: 1
    Just leased an '08 Pathfinder. In reading the fine print of my lease agreement it does not appear that it requires the maintenance to be performed by a Nissan dealer. Has anyone had any experience at lease-end with this issue ? Will I be in violation of my lease if I use a mechanic that I trust versus a local Nissan dealer that I don't trust ?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    You may also want to try Nissan Pathfinder Lease Questions.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • frrussrefrrussre Member Posts: 41
    You must keep all receipts for service work. You can even do the work yourself, as long as you have the receipts for oil & filters etc.
    Reg. Frank R.
  • sallen462sallen462 Member Posts: 4
    I have an 2001 PF with 93K miles. Bought it new, always maintained at Nissan dealership per owners manual guidelines. Since it was new have replaced various oxygen sensors multiple times. I know there are four on the vehicle. In total I've replaced various front and back sensors seven times. This was fine when vehicle was under original warranty and extended warranty. But now that it's out of warranty the Nissan dealership wants $400 to replace just one sensor. (Check engine light is on now and since I've had this problem occur many times in the past I know exactly what is the root cause.)
    I've also taken the vehicle to independent mechanics and they really aren't much cheaper. Lowest bid I've gotten to replace each oxygen sensor is $300 for the independents.
    QUESTION: Is it possible for me to change out the oxygen sensors myself? Can someone tell me if I need to be a trained mechanic , aka, how big a job would this be? I am a fairly handy person and am ready to do it myself to save the $400 bucks the dealer wants to replace each sensor. How do I find the exact position of both the front and rear oxygen sensors? Any information someone can provide me will be greatly appreciated. THANKS!
  • joeynissan20joeynissan20 Member Posts: 1
    I've run into the same exact thing. I don't know how to change the sensors, but I had a conversation with a mechanic because I found I had to repace a few of them in a 3 month period. He asked what kind of gas I was using - I was using regular and he said change to super. Granted gas prices are high, but after I changed to super, I no longer see that service engine light go on (which usually implies a sensor problem.

    What kind of gas are you using? If not super, change to it. Granted the cost over the long haul may not make sense, but at $400 a pop for the sensors - that's a lot!
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    I've changed both of my rear sensors. It's pretty easy, but there is a TSB on this. The early failure of the sensors is caused by moisture in the exhaust. The sensors turn on too soon before the condensation is dried up in the exhaust. The TSB says to replace the sensors & reprogram the ECM. The reprogram delays the sensors turning on.
  • 70ss454_man70ss454_man Member Posts: 107
    i have an 87 pathfinder which now idles very low. when i bought it (2 months ago) i did a full tune up, and it idled smoothly, just like new, didnt even know it was running at idle. exactly at 700rpm in drive. now, starting a week ago, sometimes it will idle perfect, but most of the time it will idle very low, around 400rpm and you can really feel it vibrating through the floor.

    before the tuneup it would chug and idle, the plugs were shot, etc.

    any ideas why it would do this?
    vacuum, sensor, something? :confuse:
  • sallen462sallen462 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for your reply. What is a TSB? Hate to be dumb here but I am not familiar with that term. Can you tell me how you figured out the part number for the sensors? I have checked on the web on various automotive sights and when I search for a 2001 PF oxygen sensor all the websites pull up several different ones. I know the car has four sensors on it. But the parts websites pull up six to ten different part numbers/sensors. Any advice? Also in my case, the car has been running for a period of time and any condensation has long ago dried up when each sensor went out. The latest sensor malfunctioned on the highway with me driving 70 mph and I had been driving for two hours. I was not driving 70 the entire two hours granted but I had been driving for two hours so there was no condensation. $400 a pop gets expensive very quickly! Since I've had the car, the various front and back sensors have gone out. SIX DIFFERENT TIMES! I got a suggestion from another member on here that I should switch to premium unleaded. I have always used premium from the very first tank. One time about three years into ownership of the vehicle I accidentally pumped "regular" unleaded into it....but other than that one single time always used premium.
  • lsfdlqlsfdlq Member Posts: 3
    Hi I am trying to remove the floor console on my 95 pathfinder. I have removed all the screw( at least ones i have found) the consle is very loose except I CAN'T LIFT IT. any secrets i need to know?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Just a guess but you may have some wires holding it back such as those needed for heated seats, sensors and so on.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • lsfdlqlsfdlq Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your reply,Don't think it is wiring though, i can move console side to side but it seems like a clip or something is holding it and I can't raise it. can't see or feel anything.. Any suggestions?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The Auto Repair Reference Center (an online resource that many public libraries have) just says this about console removal:

    REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

    Remove the shifter knobs and pull out the dust boot(s).

    Remove the mounting screws and carefully lift the console out over the shift lever and brake handle.

    From the graphic there, there's 2 or 3 bolts, depending whether it's a Type I or Type II, and a Pawl (6 places), whatever that means - looks like just a cover hiding some of the bolts.

    Maybe this will help:

    image
  • emagowanemagowan Member Posts: 1
    wondering if anyone knows the make and model harmonic balancer holder that would fit my Pathfinder. 1995 6cyl/4wd/AC. I'm not interested in the manual's method of removing the starter and wedging something in the flywheel teeth. I've seen holders advertised for other model vehicles, I figure someone here might know what fits this model.
  • iluvnissaniluvnissan Member Posts: 3
    Hi. It is just under the exhaust manifold on the left side of the motor (battery side). Just over the starter. I always burn my arm trying to loosen it.
  • lsfdlqlsfdlq Member Posts: 3
    I have a 95 PF 6cl. with auto. transmission. All of a sudden without warning I could not go into reverse. All the other gears are fine, shifting is fine. I have been told it is probably a solenoid switch, BUT I can not locate the solenoid. Raised center console but I see nothing there.Anyone got a good description or location of the solenoid I might be looking for, or any other suggestion? All help will be appreciated
  • stansfieldstansfield Member Posts: 15
    Hayes manual at bumper to bumper or napa run $12 and has most of what you need. Or go to www.autozone.com They have free online manuals
  • stansfieldstansfield Member Posts: 15
    Hello, have a 93 pathfinder XE, automatic, 3.0 with 4x4. Drives great in 2wheel, but when I [non-permissible content removed] it into 4wheel the truck bounces all over the road like a bad tie rod. It only happens in 4 wheel. I use 4 hi because I cannot shift it into 4 lo for some reason. Any suggestions on why it would bounce all over the road would be appreciated. Thanx
  • stansfieldstansfield Member Posts: 15
    It is real easy to get to. drivers side, lower wheel well. Two bolts and a wire harness. If you can find another horn with the same bolt pattern, it doesn't matter what vehicle you take it from.
  • stansfieldstansfield Member Posts: 15
    Two things to try before paying a mechanic is:
    1. Disconnect the neg battery cable for 10 minutes usually erases codes.
    2. On older models, the cpu is under the passenger seat. Follow the manual on how to check and erase codes.
  • stansfieldstansfield Member Posts: 15
    It's actually in front of the skid plate between the radiator and the metal housing. You could go two ways with this:
    1. Use a pliers instead of screwdriver
    2. Take the bottom fan shroud off.
    I do both.
  • stansfieldstansfield Member Posts: 15
    1. OVEN CLEANER
    2. GOO GONE
    Neither one eats the paint from my experience
  • stansfieldstansfield Member Posts: 15
    They make these AWESOME new wrenches with a plastic handle and an adjustable rubber belt. Can use it on jar lids, valves, whatever. BUT they work PERFECT for oil filter removal. Wal-mart or menards mabey have them
  • stansfieldstansfield Member Posts: 15
    It is fairly simple. You do NOT have to remove the oil pan for draining the tranny fluid or removing the filter. The filter should be changed every-other fluid change.
  • stansfieldstansfield Member Posts: 15
    Best thing to do is use the standard differential oil BUT ADD LUCAS STABALIZER to it! That stuff works wonders
  • stansfieldstansfield Member Posts: 15
    FREE Online manual at autozone.com or purchase it for $12 at bumper to bumper
  • stansfieldstansfield Member Posts: 15
    MOST OFTEN any tire is 35psi. Usually on the pathfinders it is 35-44. If you have 31s there 44, if they are anything smaller it is 35. Nissan had a recall on tire pressure size labels just so you know
  • stansfieldstansfield Member Posts: 15
    LINT FREE towels. You could also by eye-glass wipes.
  • stansfieldstansfield Member Posts: 15
    on the back of the rear axle and on the front of the differential (box that makes 2wheel to 4wheel) the have square plugs in them. The lower plug is to drain allyour fluid. There is another plug up higher to fill it back up. Fill it just until it reaches the hole.
  • stansfieldstansfield Member Posts: 15
    amor-all or black tire magic
  • stansfieldstansfield Member Posts: 15
    armor-all leather wipes! Use it in the entire car
  • almattialmatti Member Posts: 164
    Stansfield: Didn't know about the recall on the tire pressure label. Good to know. I have 2001 PF LE 4WD, on the original Dunlops (lousy tire) kept it at about 28-30. On the Michelins LTXs M & S - pressure usually at 32psi. They were good tires lasted about 60k miles, last 10k though traction and "feel' deteriorated and one tire Blowout on the highway - tread separated from the tire base, and wrapped around the tailpipe and rear mudguard; my 20 year son was driving at 65-70MPH coming back from college in July. It's a miracle that the PF didn't flip over. The Tow truck that came on the scene [AAA] said "in 20 years, never saw anything like how that tire just ripped from the sidewall".. Michelin Customer service technician said it was Driver error, Run flat condition.Never paid for the tire or the damages to the PF. COSTCO - where we bought the tires - replaced it without question. Anyway, Now replaced the Michelins with new General Grabber HTS, nice smooth riding quite tire (Consumer Reports No. 1 for Light Truck SUV - All Season) keeping psi at 33psi. Think I'll pump to 35-36psi. Should get a little better mileage.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    I also have an '01 PF (original owner) and I've never heard of the recall. Did it apply to 2001 models? I was never a big fan of the original Bridgestones, but they did last 61k miles, and they had plenty of tread left when I replaced them. I usually kept them at 26 lbs and they wore very evenly. I did try higher pressures, and the ride is noticeably harsher, even with as little as an extra 2 or 4 lbs. more. (although I generally do add 2 to 4 lbs when I'm towing my 4500 lb. boat and trailer long distances at expressway speeds). I now have Michelin LTX's, which are a far better winter tire with no apparent compromise on ride and noise, but my experience with pressure is the same as the Bridgestones...they are wearing evenly at 26 lbs., and 2 to 4 lbs. of extra pressure seem to do nothing but make the ride harsher. I agree with Almatti that fuel mileage would likely increase a bit at 35-36 lbs, but I would prefer to pay a bit more for fuel and avoid the harsh ride. Also, with that much extra pressure, wouldn't there be a concern about handling and braking in rain and snow? Would that not change the footprint of the tire on the road? My truck now has 124k miles and I've had no tire issues at all using the Nissan recommended 26 lbs., and I drive 70-90 MPH on the expressways more often than I should admit :)
  • almattialmatti Member Posts: 164
    shark: Took the plunge and replaced the tires on the 01 PF. Went for the highly touted General Grabbers HTS [consumer report's No.1 All Season tire for SUVs/CUVs]. Holy Mackerel, What a difference in quitemess, handling, overall "roadability" of this tire compared to the Michelins LTX (even new), and certainly when compared to Dunlops TG35 (OEMs). The Generals were cheaper than the Michelins even with COSTCO pricing. Just had snow, they seem to handle it very well. I'm telling you at 33psi, it feels as though I have new vehicle or at least the same one with a new suspension. I'm going to pump it to 35psi and see the differences. At the higher psi, hoping for bit better mileage. The PF as U know "suck gas".....
  • xtierraxtierra Member Posts: 55
    you can find on line PLEXUS cleaner... along with a fiver towel.... works great and you can use on your lap top screen etc...

    used by many pilots to clean gauges on cockpit.. also used on space shuttle for cleaning instrumental panels..
  • xtierraxtierra Member Posts: 55
    the best way to know what psi your tire wants with the weight of your truck is by doing the chalk test..

    go to a smooth paved parking lot... take a chalk with you..... draw a line from across the tire from inside to outside....

    the line should wear even all across with correct PSI.... if too low or too high it will show by wearing on the center of the tire or the edges of the tire..

    you can google tires psi using chalk to test psi on tire.... good luck
  • xtierraxtierra Member Posts: 55
    you should get a scan gauge from pepboys or online... aprox 86.00 dollars ... you can plug in and know what code is coming up.... then erase service engine light.....

    they come with a book and c/d to tell you what the code means...
  • spiker3spiker3 Member Posts: 3
    to change the spark plugs in an 05 nissan Pathfinder with an 4.0L,V6,does the intake manifold need to be removed and if so does the manifold have a gasket that will need to be replaced?
This discussion has been closed.