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Comments
Thanks for any help
Timtay
I also have thought of this 1st-to-2nd "twang" or clicking sound as normal until reading this thread. I will inquire at my next checkup (not for quite some time) and am anxious to see if anyone comes up with a diagnosis prior to my checkup.
If they can't fix the problem by May 12, 2005, they have to susbstitute the unit with a new one. Those are the terms estableshed by the local "lemon law". This time, I will try to get a unit builded after 01/11/2005. I have heard so many horror stories about units build before this date. Keep me posted.
PD: ASAP, get info. about the "lemon law" in your state!!!!
Any one else has experiences these issues
SES light to off for a day and then came back up again. Then they changed
the ECM that kept the light off for 1.5 days and now it is back on. I got tired
and got an actron scanner to read the code and it reported OBDII P1130 code
saying "Oxygen Sensor Fuel Trim at Limit *codes* A U" Now what should I do??
Is this dangerous? Help..................
What DSC or TCS does is a little scary. When the computer senses an "unsafe condition" (you are going too fast around a corner, for example, and start to slide - so little that you actually don't notice yet), it applies individual wheel brakes to correct the situation. This is what it has to calibrate - how much brake force does it take to skid a wheel.
You might wonder just how much good this type of system can do, but we have seen several cases where big accidents were avoided due to the systems. In one case, a head-on collision was avoided, and in doing so the driver would have normally spun off the road and flipped in the ditch. The DSC allowed him to recover and swerve back into his own lane after he avoided the head-on! Very impressive! He and his wife are very happy with the car (this was in an RX-8). It may have saved their lives! A SUV like ours will benefit even more from this system.
The TCS doesn't try to "skid a wheel" if the truck is oversteering. That would make a bad situation worse! Nor should it be attempting to apply maximum braking force (ABS engaged) to one or more wheels if the oversteer situation is minor. It should only apply as much braking force as necessary to correct the vehicle's direction. I seriously doubt that the calibration attempts to "skid wheels" during its self-test, so I fail to see why you interpret this as "scary". If anything, the self-test likely just runs the ABS pump at a low level to verify that it's operational.
Actually the system does apply the brakes, though it isn't to see how much force it takes, it's to ensure it can see the decrease in the pulses from the wheel. It needs to know that if it skids a wheel it will see it so it will NOT skid a wheel in operation - it will have control. When I say "skid" I mean it applies brake force until the antilock pulse rate starts to drop. You or I wouldn't notice the wheel is slipping as it is very subtle at that small "skid rate". The pulses it looks at are generated magnetically from those toothed wheels on the hubs - they were put there originally for the ABS, but the DCS/TCS systems use them as well. These systems can compute vehicle dynamics from the four pulse streams (direction, which, if any, wheels are slipping, etc).
What I interpret as "scary" is the systems' ability to correct situations that even a professional driver couldn't (though a professional wouldn't get into that situation if he/she could help it). It can do this because it has individual control of each wheel brake, something no driver can do - and it can correct in millisecond time intervals, something else no driver can do. We operate with about a 250 mSec. time delay.
The self test causes the running gear to "thump" - it does activate the brakes - usually just for a few milliseconds. So yes, it does try to detect proper braking operation - ie - application of "brake enable" will decrease the pulse rate from the ABS sensors. When we interrupted this pulse rate signal on an RX-8 it got very upset - and put the car in severe "limp mode" - max. speed about 50 MPH, low power, dash system warning lights flashing. Oops! It recovered once we gave it back the signals and reset it.
In case you're wondering, the object was to try to fully disable the DSC system so we could dyno the car properly. We were unable to do so - the car is "too safe", so dyno results can be iffy as the car will eventually go into a "safe mode". The various systems are tied together very tightly, and even when the DSC system is "off" (dash switch can be used to disable it), it still functions at some level. We haven't tried messing with my Pathfinder because I don't care how much HP it has - it has more than enough for my needs ;-) , and mine doesn't have the TCS.
I just got back from a 45K service on my 2001 4WD Pathfinder.
Check engine light was on, they replaced the intake timing sensor...$ 84 for the part and $ 99 for 1 hour of labor. Is this charge normal for the part and labor?
Performed a complete transmission Fluid Flush. $ 179/- Was this necessary at 45K.
Transfer case service was done $ 75/- Am not sure what this does and if it was needed.
Replaced front brake pads and resurface rotors for $ 310/- Is this charge to high? And I'm not sure if this was needed.
Add to that they performed rear brake service for $ 50/, what is it that they do when the say brake service.
Replaced "Belt Compr" and "Belt Fan&A" to $ 150/-
And the standard charge of $ 140/ for the 45K service...
They had more planned and refused the following service
Oil Flush and Front and Rear Differential Service.... Do I need to get this done or is the dealer just plain ripping me of carrrying out unneccesary work on my truck.
Any ideas how much this should cost including labor for a 4W pathfinder 2001?
The vehicle engine stalls when I let up on the accelerator while driving. Doesn't happen all the time. Never happens when a mechanic drives it. The engines start right back up again once I shift to Neutral.
According to http://www.iequus.com/obd_def.asp P1140 is the following:
"Intake Valve Timing Control Position Sensor (Bank 1)"
However, according to the Haynes manual, P1140 is defined as:
"Variable valve timing position sensor or circuit fault (right bank)"
These sound as if they might be the same thing. Are they?
Also, any suggestions as far as fixing this issue...dealership? Is this something that a home mechanic can address?
Thanks for any help.
Cheers
I'm considering purchasing a '95 Pathfinder as my son's first car. It has 142,000 miles and appears to be in good shape from the photo. I'll be checking it out this weekend. What's everyone's opinion of the mileage? The owner has only owned it a year and plans on leaving the country but has put on new tires, and AC motor and new axles. Does this year Path have a timing belt or chain? What else, other than wear and tear, should I look for?
Thanks.
I'm furious with Nissan. I have a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder SE with only 79000km (50k miles??). Both of my front springs are broken in almost the same spot. The truck is in excellent condition and I don't drive it a lot. How the heck could this happen? One maybe but both?? It's a truck for crying out loud!! What kind of quality parts are these?
Obviously Nissan won't cover this under warranty. It happens so rarely the dealers don't even carry the parts in stock.
Anyone else have this problem?
For those people experiencing the problems with their power windows during cold weather here is a tip to fix it. First it is not caused by the power window motor failing despite what some dealers will tell you. It is caused by the seals shrinking and grabbing the windows. Apparently they were designed to be tight in order to reduce wind noise. So, the advice that I got (which works) is to use a non-penetrating lubricant - silicone based works. Unfortunatley you have to repeat this process but it does work. I was thinking of trying vaseline or research some thicker lubricants.
Anyhow try it before heading into the shop. Oh also the runners inside the door may need to be cleaned too.
I thought I was an island with this problem! I too have a 04 pathfinder LE and I have had it into the dealer for this problem 5 times now. They have "replaced" so many things including and I quote, "we shoved some cardboard in the headliner, so that should help." (nice eh?) yet nothing seems to do the trick. And since it is getting warmer here (Mpls, MN USA) you can't hear it but I know come winter...
Since they have done this, I now hear way more engine noise then before, almost like they forgot to put something back or reare assembledmething incorrectly. They refuse to test the windshield though, their answer was if I had glass insurance I so go that route! I feel so insulted how unprofessional!
Also to add insult to injury, to duplicate the noise you have to drive over a bump and in doing this so many times at the dealer, it feels like now the front end is WAY out of alignment. (
Any way if you have any solution please could you pass this on to me? I am so frustrated.
Thanks for your help.
Cheers Sparkslarue
:confuse:
Hope you get it sorted.
1. I have to press the parking brake all the way to the floor to release it, is that normal?
2. In the manual under the Checking the Parking Brake, it said "Press the parking brake from the released position and 3-4 clicks is within the spec......" Can someone please explain more specific on this?
Thanks
brian
I have replaced battery and now it just happened with a brand new battery again.
If I try to boost the car, engine gets in some alarm state and does not let me start while annoying the whole neigborhood. I have managed with some sequence od opening/closing doors and putting key in and out to stop the alarm and the car started with a boost.
Some garages are telling me that I have to live with it as it is old car. Can't believe. had an older Isuzu Trooper before and would start after two months sitting on the driveway. Something is draining baterry badly. Has to be a couple amperes a day or more. Of the major accessories I have trailer brake control and alarm that I don't know how to disable.
Anyone had a same experience. Any ideas?
2) Nissan is saying once you start to actuate the parking brake you will hear clicks. 3-4 clicks is within spec for the brake to be actuated. Some trucks might be set at 3 and others 4. Going beyond that most likely releases the brake.
Previous codes:
IVTC sensor
O2 sensor