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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • johnboy4johnboy4 Member Posts: 2
    :sick: I have a 1995 Pathfinder. We changed the slave cylinder and the master cylinder . I have tried to bleed them several times. The last time that I tried to bleed the clutch, the pedal went to the floor. The pedal has come up a little, with a little pressure, but not enough to shift gears. Any thoughts or suggestions are very much needed and thanked.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    You had the computer changed!? Wow, that must have been an expensive fix! What was wrong with the computer?

    This happens only during acceleration? After this happens, how do you get going again?
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    You need to fill/bleed the master cylinder before it is put on the car. Mount it (carefully) in a vise, and fill/bleed it, then install it on the vehicle.
  • johnboy4johnboy4 Member Posts: 2
    We found out that the master cylinder that we recently changed was defective. We changed it with your suggestions and it is working great. Thank you very much. :)
  • jwilly1jwilly1 Member Posts: 2
    After a 60K scheduled maintenance, the vehicle hesitates pretty dramatically during moderate to rapid accelerations - no problems with gradual accelerations. Before the maintenance, there were no problems. Now, the car hesitates so much when accelerating that it really isn't safe to drive. During the maintenance, they intalled a new fuel filter and used a 3-step fuel system kit (probably fuel additives). This vehicle has a Vehicle Dynamic Control or drive-by-wire system with a valve timing control system, variable flow intake, and an ECCS. I'm pretty frustrated b/c it ran primo before they mucked around with it. Ideas about what may be wrong?
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Sounds like the repair facility messed something up. Take it back right away.
  • jwilly1jwilly1 Member Posts: 2
    The shop had it all day today and called to say it was now running great ("took off like a rocket" - or words to that effect). But when my daughter picked it up she nearly had an accident (rammed from behind) when the power dropped off as she tried to accelerate to traffic speed. I'm taking it back in the a.m. for another go-around.
  • jimcollingwoodjimcollingwood Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get this fixed? and what was the problem if you did ?

    I have a 94 pathy with no blower/no cig lighter/no rear wiper and hope your experience might solve my problem. (it's not a fuse - maybe a ground wire somewhere ?)
  • staceyhstaceyh Member Posts: 2
    We have the same problem with our 95 PF. I wanted to know if you were able to install your pathfinder on a better frame. Ours won't pass inspection at this point because of the rust on the frame. The body is in great condition. Any other suggestions? Sorry I don't have any for you.

    Staceyh
  • kerrywkerryw Member Posts: 6
    for the past two years or so i have been having intermittent problems with smoke coming from the exhaust pipe on start up. sometimes it happens sometimes it does not. i took it several times to the dealer and they told me it is normal (ya right) sometimes the smoke is so thick it takes a while to dissipate. they told me a year ago that it is a seasonal thing and true it did stop all last year. then it started up in december and still happens now and then.

    another mechanic that works on nissans said that he has heard of engine problems with pathfinders and has heard of 20 or so engines that have been replaced. but getting nissan to do this is difficult.

    has anyone else had this problem???
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    What color is the smoke?

    White= water vapor, normal, especially when engine is cold and ambient temp is low.
    Blue= burning oil. Check oil level to confirm if oil is being consumed.
    Black= Running too rich.
  • rcpathfinder1rcpathfinder1 Member Posts: 1
    I have this exact problem but on the driver's side and it took 5+ visits to get the current diagnosis (bad weld somewhere). The dealer wants to cut the side of my Pathfinder open to re-weld a connection. I said no because of the safety concerns and possible de-valuing of the vehicle. I contacted Nissan consumer affairs but did not have any luck getting a replacement (or anything else for that matter). I'm wondering if you've had any luck getting something other than cutting the car open. I'm at the point of considering hiring a lawyer to get a satisfactory resolution.
    Thanks in advance for any info.
  • xperiment73xperiment73 Member Posts: 1
    you might need a new fuel pump
  • kerrywkerryw Member Posts: 6
    the smoke color varies a bit but is basically white-ish....sometimes there is a blue tint but not black at all.....i have noticed that i am going thru a bit of oil but not noticeably any coolant. today for example when i started it up from sitting overnight....absolutly no smoke, yet after driving it for about twenty minutes and parking for about 1 hour, i had a bit of smoke. then in driving it for about another 30 minutes and parking for about 30minutes when i started it up there was alot of smoke. it has been parked now for about 1hour again and when i started it up...no smoke??? a friend says head gasket?
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    How much is "a lot" of smoke? Is it so much that you fog up the area behind the truck so much that visibility is reduced, or does it kind of waft around a bit when you look in your mirrors?

    The next time you believe you can reproduce the smoke, I would have someone stand near the tailpipe and try to smell the exhaust odor. If it's oil or coolant that's burning, the smell is quite distinct.

    Otherwise, it could just be water vapor. How cold is it where you're at?
  • kerrywkerryw Member Posts: 6
    the amount of smoke varies from day to day week to week. when it gives alot of smoke it is like a smoke screen behind me and when it gives a bit it is only a little puff. the last time that i took it to the dealer, they had their mechanic take it home for a couple of days....he said it was normal...i said no way but they kept saying it was...then after a couple of more weeks of embarisment driving, i took it back and they started it next to another car in their lot and of course mine only gave out a little puff just like theirs.....it stopped for a couple of weeks and then started again.

    i live in vancouver and although the temp does vary from winter to summer take today for instance.....not any smoke in the morning after a cold start yet yesterday there was.....after several stops and starts today around town, i had one large smoke screen mid day that lingered. after driving across town and stopping then starting....no smoke.....what gives? could it be a stuck valve?
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Not likely it's a stuck valve, or you'd have much bigger problems. It could be a worn valve guide or possibly bad rings, though.

    The best way to tell would be to pull the spark plugs and see if any of them are fouled. If your truck is still under warranty, I'd take it to another dealer for a second opinion and have them take a look. What you're describing is definitely not normal.
  • kerrywkerryw Member Posts: 6
    i did take it to another dealer and they said take it back to the first dealer but he is giving me the run around...this second dealer mentioned that there is a engine problem and that he has heard of 20 or so engines being replaced due to the same problem...is there any way to find out this kind of information???
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Is your truck still under warranty? If so, and the dealer has heard of engines being replaced, then I don't know why they're not helping you out. Get some more information from the service advisor about what he's heard (TSB's, similar warranty claims, etc), and then get Nissan Corporate involved. Tell them about your two unpleasant dealership experiences. They should be able to help you out.
  • thecanadianthecanadian Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Pathfinder XE with 75,000 km (45,000 miles). It has been great outside of a defective battery (which was replaced under warrantee) until recently. I just had the front brake pads replaced, and rotors machined for both the front and back. Two weeks later I started to hear a small clanking on the front drivers side when I use the brakes, but only at slower speeds. I took it in just a few days ago to have it checked, and the service department at Nissan said it didn't appear to be the brakes, but I needed to bring it back in for a day to have the suspension checked. It seems to be getting worse, and I'm taking it in on Monday. It just seems odd that it's happening after the recent brake work.

    Has anyone else had this happen?

    I'm also finding that the transmission is shifting harder than it used to. The dealer suggested flushing the transmission, which didn't seem to make a difference. My lease ends in a month, and I'm getting the feeling that maybe this vehicle might be one of the few Pathfinders with a lemon after taste, and time to move on t :confuse: ">o something else.
  • geekettgeekett Member Posts: 1
    Need help with 92 Pathfinder V6 - I'm at the end of my rope! Here's the short version of the saga:

    Came home the other day running fine. Shut it off and the next day it wouldn't start. It turns over just fine but won't start. Will run with starting fluid. Replaced the fuel pump and filter with no change in behavior. Tested the relays and they seem to be okay. It is getting fuel to the injectors but seems injectors are not firing.

    Any ideas?
  • walkejuwalkeju Member Posts: 1
    HI, I am having the same problem, and have bought a fuel filter to replace, but can't find it. Where is the fuel filter on a 92 pathfinder? Thanks
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    How do you get starting fluid into the engine to make it run?

    Here's another test to diagnose a no-start condition:
    Crank the engine for a while, then pull a spark plug. If it's wet or smells strongly of fuel, then your injectors are working and the problem is ignition-related.

    If you do indeed diagnose the problem to be fuel-injector related, then there may be a bad electrical connection somewhere between the ECM and the fuel injectors.
  • steve2359steve2359 Member Posts: 1
    I have the same exact problem with my 2001 Pathfinder LE. Cannot predict when it will happen but sometimes no smoke, sometimes a whisp, sometimes a cloud covers me for about 5 seconds. White/blue, no particular smell. Only when starting. I have 112,000 miles on vehicle. Please let me know if you make any progress with diagnosing this problem. I don't trust my local Nissan dealer either!
  • kerrywkerryw Member Posts: 6
    hi there, i found another dealer who has listened to me and has put my vehicle on a "oil consumption monitoring program". apparently from the talk i heard behind the counter is that they do this to start the paperwork with nissan to determine what the problem is. i also heard a couple of the mechanics say that they have replaced several faulty motors but most dealers make it so hard for owners to deal with the process. hopefully these guys are straight up with me and the oil consumption reviews show that it is nothing that i have done. i only have 50,ooo k on the truck.

    what i heard them talk about was the fact that there is a problem with the engines in that the ring gaps on the pistons have the ability to line up and this allows oil into the chamber...has anyone else heard of this????
  • dannymandannyman Member Posts: 5
    rattling repaired after 3 tries. they located the problem... it was the front bumper,the pins needed to be insulated. this stopped the mysterious noise. by adding the foam pad the vibration was fixed......
  • jtrobsonjtrobson Member Posts: 1
    I've got a factory DVD system in my vehicle. The first one had no or intermittent sound on the right channel when using the wireless headphones. I took it in and they replaced the DVD player. Now, I have sound on both left and right, but the right is 2-3 times quieter than the left side when using the wireless headphones. Has anyone else had a similar problem with their system?
  • 05pathfinderse05pathfinderse Member Posts: 7
    My pathfinder has been in 3 times now for rattles...The two that are left (passenger side tapping noise when slowing down & a squeaking noise coming from the undercarriage or engine compartment) are terribly annoying. I have not received a diagnosis of a bad weld yet (although it really sounds like that's what it could be). I have one more appt. next week because after picking up the car last time and finding all of the noises still there, I drove back and had a tech ride with me so I could point out the sounds. He wasn't sure what the problem is, but I figure I'll let them give it one more shot. I just haven't been able to take any more time off to have this truck in for service. If the rattles are not fixed after this next visit, I too will seek some sort of resolution. dannyman (1706), states that his problem ended up being front bumper pins needing some insulation. I'll suggest this to the tech, but the noise is so loud in the cabin that I think it can't be that far out. I'll let you know what happens.
  • opiedogopiedog Member Posts: 9
    I too have been experiencing the same type of noise from the same door. Did you ever happen to get this issue resolved?
  • dirtydogdirtydog Member Posts: 1
    I too have experience the same problem you are describing. I have a 93 PF with a manual tranny. This problem tends to occur with the manual because of the clutch interlock rely switch located near the battery. This problem will drive you insane because after installing a new battery, new starter, new ignition switch, spark plugs, wires etc, etc the problem will go away for a while. Thinking you have solved the problem but only to find out it returns a month or two later. The car will start with no problem and decide not to start with no rhyme or reason.

    After learning of this problem I found a message board with a few people who had the same problem. One person pointed out the problem and sure enough that is exactly what it was. Your problem is the clutch interlock rely switch has gone bad. It needs to be replaced and it's very easy to do. The part will cost $15 at AutoZone. It is located next to the battery along the front quarter panel on the passenger side. It is a square (rather large) fuse (it may be black or gray in color). It simple pops up and out and just stick the new one in. Real easy. I replaced mine 3 years ago and havn't had a problem since. Unfortunately I spent $$$$ replacing good parts trying to solve this problem. Good luck
  • praisehimpraisehim Member Posts: 1
    My Path WAS too making the squeaking noise. Turns out my hood needed to be re-adjusted. It just came out of the shop again. I have had my 05 in the shop too many times. I finally seeked an attorney. My brakes (front and back) have been replaced due to grinding sounds...well never mind all of my issues. :lemon:

    I hope the sounds go away...but ask the service techs to look at the hood. You never know. ;)
  • rs4rs4 Member Posts: 25
    Some how it dot get less on its own. Make sure you click all the unsused seatbelts in the rear that helps
  • amboytexamboytex Member Posts: 4
    I have a '94 Pathy XE 4X4 that sputter, stall, & quit at idle when I stop or slow down. It scared my son so much he does not want to drive it anymore. The problem is intermittent and does not last for more than a day or two and then it runs fine again. My engine is in top shape for it's age with 132K miles. This is how I fixed mine. I have an OBD II so I can pull the trouble code on my ECU. It gave me code 42, EGR function. The Haynes manual I have have a good info on it and comparing the EGR, EGR BPT, EGR Solenoid, & the vacuums hoses in the diaghram underneath the hood I was able to locate them. Here's how you test your EGR valve: Feel underneath it and push the diaphram up, if it move up and spring back down, its good, so far. Next, start the engine, repeat the same procedure in. The engine should hesitate or even quit. If it did the EGR valve is good. Now to test EGR BPT: disconnect the top screws, unplug the vacuum hoses, and take it out. Connect a vacuum hose on the top and suck on it. If you are able to get some air, it's good. Now connect a hand pump at the bottom and suck the top vacuum hose again. If you are able to suck air, it's definitely good. Now the EGR solenoid: Well, this is very complicated, so do not blame it yet. Check all your vacuum hoses using the diaghram under your hood. If you haven't replace any since you bought it, replace it. They are very inexpensive. Now leave the EGR solenoid alone for now. Once you checked and corrected all of the above, clear the trouble code (this is about code 42) in the ECU if you haven't done so. Start the engine, drive around the block and check if the trouble code reappear. If the Red blink 5 times and the Green blink 5 times (Code 55), you fixed it. Good luck, hope this help.
  • 05pathfinderse05pathfinderse Member Posts: 7
    Thanks for the tip...I will tell the tech to take a look at the hood & the front bumper (the cause of someone else's rattle). The really irritating thing (other than having the truck in the shop every few weeks and having to rent a car every time) is that the rattles and squeaks are intermittent and sometimes difficult to reproduce on demand; but when they are there they are loud, annoying, and embarassing. I am curious to know what your attorney suggested. I was considering looking into the lemon law (unfixed problem after three attempts or possibly reduction in value due to defect - I know I would not buy my truck at book value after test driving it) but other people have told me it would not cover rattles. I would really like to seek some recourse for the aggravation of having a brand new truck rattling and squeaking that has to be brought to the shop repeatedy because nissan seems unable to fix it. Thanks again for the tip. Will post results of the next attempt.
  • tiggerr_37tiggerr_37 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1997 nissan pathfinder it was missing on one cylinder I checked everything I could think of and found a bad injector, in the mean time I was driving down the road and it blew a 10 amp fuse could smell the smoke.. I put the new injector in and still missing, put it in another hole missing on a different cylinder so its not the injector.. now its missing on 2 cylinders I called a nissan dealer he said it might be the brain anyone else have any suggestions?
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    How did you know which cylinder was missing? Did you have a DTC (check engine light)? What prompted you to diagnose this as an injector problem?

    Which 10A fuse blew?

    If you replaced the fuel injector, but the cylinder still misfired, then it must be lack of spark. The Nissan dealer's diagnosis was inaccurate. The ECM should be one of the last things to check.

    Assuming your ignition components are relatively new (i.e. plugs, wires, dist cap and rotor) the next possible culprit is the ignition coil, which unfortunately is embedded inside the distributor. So, you might have to replace the distributor (~approx $280 at Pinnacle Nissan. Also check your favorite OEM parts sources.)
  • kenped86kenped86 Member Posts: 1
    where are the best junkyards with pathfinder parts? thanks.
  • tiggerr_37tiggerr_37 Member Posts: 4
    I knew what cylinder was missing by pulling the plug wire of the distributor.. the fuse that said electronic fuel injection was the ten amp fuse that blew... there is plenty of spark in the plug wires they are new....all six cylinders has spark the I did a continuity test on the injector all showed good but one so it was replaced.. I have power to all injectors but it doesnt seem to have ground on the last 2... we will probably take it to a dealer tomarrow but any suggestions are great......
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    Not sure about your vehicle, but usually the ECU grounds the injector it wants to fire - that is, all injectors are connected to +12 V, and the ECU grounds the other side. If an injector fails, it's possible it could send too much current into the ECU (injector short for example). You could check the ECU by connecting a 12 V bulb between injector lead (no injector) and the ECU. When the engine is running the bulb should flash or be on (but dimmer than normal as it would be pulsed). Use a lower current bulb, such as an interior lamp. If the bulb doesn't light it's probably the ECU damaged by too much current. Sometimes even that is easy to fix, but only for an electronics tech.
  • montymmontym Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Pathfinder XE with 4WD and Automatic trans. that I love except for 1 problem. To shift from 2H to 4H is no problem - however to shift from 4H back into 2H I have to stop, shift into reverse, and gently push on the 4WD shifter while backing up about 3-6 feet and it clicks in. My question is "Is this Normal?" I have never owned a Nissan before- I don't know. If it is,fine. If it is not, does anybody have any idea of what is wrong and what it would take to fix.
    Thank You
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    It's normal. You don't actually have to shift into reverse to release it, but it is the easiest way.

    Because the transfer case locks the front and rear axles together you can and usually do get "binding". Think of the two drive shafts - front and rear. The front wheels go further around a corner than the rear (when moving forward), so the difference is made up by "skidding" the tires, but there is torque built up before they skid. When you shift into reverse you are releasing that torque (and if you go too far you will build up torque in the other direction). That torque binds the gears and prevents the transfer case from shifting. You can also release it by driving forward and turning right and then left (one of the turns will release the torque allowing the transfer case to shift).

    Something to know if there is no way to back up.

    All 4WD vehicles that don't have a centre diff. or some other slip limiting device (such as a viscous coupling) do this. Those that put in a centre diff. have to use one with "limited slip" if they want to approach the capabilites of the locked systems such as we have. For example, the Toyota 4Runner uses a Torsen centre diff.
  • tiggerr_37tiggerr_37 Member Posts: 4
    I went to the nissan dealership today paid 100 dollers for them to tell me the injectors were stuck open the in jectors are not stuck open what a waist...
    Went home got your message tried it out. (good idea by the way). the light worked on the first cylinder dim and pulsated nothing on the other 2, where is the ECU the guy tried to tell me but you seem to know more then he did any other suggestions but be greatly appreciated....
  • tiggerr_37tiggerr_37 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1997 nissan pathfinder this is normal on most 4 wheel vehicles because your tying to wheels together steerable wheels and non steerable wheels...
    when your turn your wheels in four wheel low range it puts the gears in a bind and to release that you need to back up so that it puts slack in the gears so they will come out ....
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    I forgot what year your Pathy is... On mine (a 97) the ECM is located under the dashboard above the steering column. If you would like detailed info about the engine control module from the Nissan factory service manual, shoot me an e-mail: dean at xplorx4.com
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    came on three weeks ago while returning from the coast. Came on 5 min. down the highway from filling up with gas. I drove the 300 km home ignoring it. Checked the fuel cap when I got home, it was tight. Week later filled up with gas (same brand, different station - I use the 10% ethanol premium fuel and have had very good luck with it). Last night I drove to the airport (30 km down the highway). When I started the vehicle at the airport the SES light stayed off! Woopee! I guess it was a bad tank of fuel.

    This is just nuts. We had a code reader but couldn't find it when the light was on. Working on finding it or getting another one for -when- not if, the light comes on again. It may not tell me the truth, but I just have to know what the ECU thinks is the problem. One possible solution is replacing the light with a resistor, because a false reading is worse than no reading at all!

    As far as the ECU location on earlier models (mine is a 2001), xplorx4 is your best bet. I have the service manual for the 2001.
  • amboytexamboytex Member Posts: 4
    I have a '94 Pathy XE 4WD & I took care of the engine by keeping up with the required maintenance,e.g. full sunthetic oil, timing belts etc. My truck runs well and gets 16+ mpg combined (city/freeway) but I can't figure why during fall (I live in San Diego, Calif.) my AT & brake lights on the instrument panel light up at first start in the morning and stays lit until the engine is reved up and warmed up? I bought a connector spray cleaner and will clean every connectors I have inside the engine and the ignition switch this weekend. Can anyone narrow down the source of my instrument light problem? Thanks in advance.
  • helpplease111helpplease111 Member Posts: 1
    After a heavy rain storm I found a puddle on the driver's side floor (car was parked during rain). I assume that some sort of drain is clogged that is causing water to get into my Pathfinder. Does anyone know where such a drain could be so I could unclog it? Thanks
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Your alternator is likely failing. I'm not sure why Nissan configured the AT and brake lights to glow when the alternator fails, but I do know that when the fan belt (which also drives the alternator) breaks, the AT Temp, Brake, and Batt lights all glow. And then the vehicle quickly overheats. :)

    Since the alternator is driven by the fan belt, the alternator output can be monitored to detect whether the alternator is turning. Now, if the alternator is failing then the output is probably enough to make the vehicle think the fan belt is broken.

    My guess as to why the AT temp and Batt lights glow is that if the fan belt breaks, most drivers probably won't be astute enough to notice that the temperature gauge is hot before it's too late. However, most people usually will immediately pay attention to the instrument panel if it lights up suddenly.

    In your case, I'm not sure why the Batt light isn't also glowing, but I would have your alternator tested nonetheless. Most auto parts stores like Kragen or Autozone will test the alternator for you for free (removed from vehicle, of course).
  • maxpower!maxpower! Member Posts: 3
    I got a '91 Pathfinder SE recently. In the fuse-box I found a fuse marked "Seat Heat." Does this vehicle have heated seats? If so, how do I control them?

    Thanks.
  • wer1wer1 Member Posts: 1
    I recently replaced my starter because my car was slow to start. Afterwards my car would intermittently would not start at times. The mechanics thought it could be the alarm deactivating the car so they suggested to deactivate the alarm which I have not done yet. I have had some problems with the alarm system, but could this be the case? Sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't in that I don't even hear the starter turning. Anyways, thanks
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