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The dealer has checked the head gasket, and it's ok. Doesn't appear to be any oil leaks. They cannot explain why it is happening, and can not re-create the problem, although they saw the smoke cloud the first morning that I brought it in. Seems to only happen after it's cooled off for several hours after it's been driven the day before.
I was driving one day and all of a sudden the car stopped responding. The engine was idling, but hitting the accelerator did not do anything. The car was just rolling. I pooled over and again hitting the accelerator did not do anything but the engine was still running. I put it in park and now the engine was responding normally, back in drive and again the engine would not respond. I stopped the engine and when I tried to start it again the battery seem to be dead and I couud not start it. I had to tow it home. At home I hooked the battery to a charger, recharged the battery and the car started like nothing happened. I drove it to Nissan Dealership; they tried to locate the problem but did not find anything. Just incase, thinking that I may have a bad battery I bought and installed a new one. For about five days and around 100 miles the car worked fine and then exactly the same happened again. I called a tow truck towed the car home recharged the battery and in the morning drove it to another Nissan Dealership. In this dealership they also could not find the problem.
Did anyone experience anything like that? I would appreciate any input on the matter
Thanks
David
What tests have you done to verify that the alternator is working properly? What's the battery voltage while the engine is running? (A voltmeter should register somewhere between 13.6-14.4 volts.)
If this happens again, next time have the vehicle towed to the dealer instead of going home first and charging the battery. If the dealer still can't find the problem, take the vehicle to a different dealer (or another licensed auto repair facility).
:sick:
Try another dealer for the fan blower motor issue.
The auto 4WD system uses a multiplate clutch to engage the front diff., and when disengaging the hydraulic pressure must be released.
sounds like you have theexact problem that i have, sometimes there is smoke when you start up and sometimes there is not....i have spent almost a year and a bit trying to get my orignal dealer to acknowledge the problem but was always told it is normal...ya right...i found a second dealer that has put me on an oil consumption analysis test and i take my truck in every 2000 km so they can check how much oil it is going thru...so far tey are being coperative in trying to help me and on the side one of the mechanics told me nissan has an engine problem that they dont want to acknowledge...this mech says he has heard that they have replaced 25 or so engines
suggestions would be appreciated. thanks.
Did you ever get this fixed? Was it a matter of adjusting the regulators?
N
You can get the lower links for about $91 each (which includes the bushings), or you can replace only the bushings with higher-performance polyurethane. It's probably cheaper overall to just replace the lower links than to replace only the bushings, which need to be pressed out of the links, due to the extra labor of pressing the bushings.
In this photo you can see the lower link (on the far right center of the photo) attached to the rear axle.
In this photo, you can see what the lower link looks like removed from the truck, although what's pictured are: a lower link (that was bent from off-roading) and a new lower link that's been reinforced. (Both links have aftermarket polyurethane bushings installed.)">
Don't be hard on self.. You're a egghead..
Encountering similar problem.. Saw your note
prior to having struts and shocks installed..
Will research further thanks to you.. Should
a solution come available I will send along..
Thanks for the heads up..
Regards,
Lenny
Knowing which gasket requires replacing, and how much labor is required to do so depends on where the oil is leaking. There are lots of "oil gaskets" on your Pathfinder, so it's hard to give you a cost estimate without more information.
Take a look under the truck and note where there seems to be oily residue, and also try to identify the color of the oil. It will be either reddish or brownish. Brownish oil (motor oil), coming from parts closer to the front of the truck, means there's a leaking gasket on the engine. Reddish oil (transmission and/or transfer-case fluid) means you have a leaky transmission or transfer case gasket.
Why do you suspect that the oil is leaking from a gasket that involves shifting from 2WD to 4WD?
Good luck!
However, the liquid crystal display continued to flash (in the center and front wheels) indicating that the vehicle was not coming out of 4WD. We ultimately had to pull off the road and hit uneven terrain to get out of 4WD.
We took the vehicle to the local dealer where we purchased it, and of course, they told us it's operating normally. Having now spoken to the Service Manager, he has spoken to Nissan Engineering in California and there may be a problem here. I'm bringing in back in next week for them to have a look at.
I've had a 1999 and 2003 Pathfinder and those 4WD systems worked flawlessly for me. This dealership is trying to give me some explanation about "axles" this and "hubs" that ... coupled with "conditions" etc. ... I just know that with my last 2 Pathfinders, I could shift in & out of 4WD with no issues.
Once this week, with my current Pathfinder, my wife had to put it in reverse and back up about 20 feet to get it out of 4WD. Please respond if you have any insight or are having any similar issues.
Thanks,
greatpgh in Pittsburgh
The problem will be worse when the vehicle is new because the parts are not "worn in" yet and so tend to stick a little. In the future, when it's time to change the fluids in the transmission/transfer case, if you go to synthetics the problem will be reduced further, due to those lubricants being a little more slippery.
Thanks
Normal.
The code is read by a hand held electronic reader that plugs into a socket below the steering column...on the dash board.
A "P code" is just an industry term that stands for something else. There are hundreds of P codes that exist for each vehicle. Not all vehicles use the same P codeterminology. For example in Nissan speak - P1142 stands for cam angle timimng sensor(LH). It's a part that senses cam shaft speed and adjusts the throttle according to a computer algorithm. There are 2 of these on your engine. Malfunction could mean that the sensor has failed...or that a voltage reading is simply wrong for the operating mode of the engine. A zero voltage reading for example could mean that a wire or harness is loose or damaged. Let me know if you have any problem getting your P code read.
Bob
I have checked my 1996 owners manual and it tells me how to change a 95's plate light, not my model.
Can someone advise me on how to change these bulbs?
Any one have any info on this. :confuse:
Replacing the struts isn't too hard, and technically you don't even need an alignment, since the only adjustable alignment angle is toe. Camber and caster are not adjustable. On the other hand, during most suspension work, it might be a good idea to get an alignment also, especially if you notice uneven wear on the front tires.
If you have a Pep Boys locally, you can get the struts replaced for $40 (labor) plus parts cost per strut.
If you've never had the struts replaced before, I recommend getting the following parts:
1) Two KYB GR2 Pathfinder struts (search google for it) ~$100 each
2) Two strut mounts ~$25 each
3) Two strut bearings ~$25 each
4) Two strut dust boots/bump stops ($??)
For items 2-4, I recommed checking out Pinnacle Nissan.
If you'd like to see photos of what's involved in replacing the strut (do-it-yourself method) click here.
Unless you're really unhappy with the Pathfinder or if it has several other items in need of repair, there's no reason to replace it just because the struts are bad.
Take the battery to the shop and have it check. I took mine to Sears, and they check it for free.
Most likely it is the battery. Once I replaced my battery, problem disappears.
good luck.
Any ideas?
Thanks.
-mirabilis
Lets figure this out.
Replace Purge Valve Vent Control Valve and Evap Canister.
Purge line clean and recheck ECM function.
I was told that my ECM board could be shot costing another $900 on top of the above amount. And of course they could not verify proper ECM function until the above issues were fixed.
I went to Dealer2 and was charged $692 for the following:
Replacement of vent control valve
Replacement of Evap Canister
Replacement of Purge Volume Control Valve
In speaking with the service rep from Dealer2 his experience is that the ECM board rarely fails and would not expect it to be the case in ths event(prediagnosis)
Apparently the lines were not clogged and the ECM board was fine. In fact I checked them as you told me to and they were not "crunchy" at all. I mentioned that Nissan
has a TSB and reccomended that the lines be cleaned as well. And they were aware of it (as they should be) and
said that is thier procedure as well (Dealer2).
I'm happy to have saved $300. I think Dealer1 had me up to my eyes in labor costs. Now for the end. Of course it does me well to know that the SES is gone and the parts have been replaced and the ECM board is fine ...etc. But there are times when I go to start my truck it takes a little bit to turn over. Also I still get the smell of gas on the passenger side mostly either idleing or after parking the car. No leaks on the ground. Just the smell of gas. And I am still getting that coolant odor too.
Should'nt the replacement of these parts taken care of the problem? I run 92+ octane and I've had carbon cleaned from the throttle body. What else could it be? I hope it's nothing more than say a tune up or maybe not using such a rich fuel mixture at its age. Oh BTW its a 97 Pathfinder 4x4 LE 3.3 V6. Help!!! :confuse:
BTW, your 3.3L V6 is designed to run on plain ol' 87 octane. There's no reason to run anything higher unless you notice pinging (typically only on very hot days under heavy loads). Higher octane fuel is actually harder to burn, and can result in poorer emissions and fuel economy in engines not tuned to run on it. That could contribute to your condition, but I can't be sure.
As for the coolant odor, check the coolant level periodically. Also, check for coolant stains directly beneath the throttle body near the accelerator cable linkage. There's a thermostatic idle-speed valve there that I've noticed seepage before.