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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • bavmwbavmw Member Posts: 3
    Anyone have any suggestions on how to get to the spare tire ??

    I tried reading the owner's manual and it didn't work
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    IF it's the same as the previous model (I'm not sure it is but you can check) -
    1. Open rear hatch.
    2. Look at the bottom centre of the rear hatch opening and you should see a plastic tube going down.
    3. Find the long skinny metal rod that has a square end on it that fits a handle (that you also have to find - mine are under the rear seat and the handle was in a storage bin in a bag).
    4. Insert the rod into the plastic tube - it is used to lower the spare tire to the ground on a chain by cranking it using the handle. You have to "feel around" a bit to get it to engage but it's not difficult.

    When you crank the tire back up, I recommend installing it with the valve facing down, so you can check the pressure and air it up without removing it. Of course if you do that, you will probably forget all the above when you do get a flat, as you will not have practised lowering the tire for a long time. ;)
  • jomarchjomarch Member Posts: 6
    NEED ANSWER ON QUESTION #1983. (2001 PATHFINDER 2X2)
    FUSE BLOWING INSIDE DOME LIGHT, DOOR LOCKS, CLOCK.............

    HELP -PLEASEEEEEEEEEEE..................
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Jo,

    The problem is quite likely a short circuit somewhere in the system. You may want to try Electronic Gremlins: Electrical Problems That Are Driving You Crazy while you're waiting for a reply here.

    Also, reposting your message over and over really will not get you a reply any quicker. The boards tend to be quiet on Friday nights and over the weekend.

    I recommend turning off your CAPS LOCK since many people tend to ignore messages written in ALL CAPS.

    tidester, host
  • pg48477pg48477 Member Posts: 309
    Hi all, quick question. I recently checked motor oil and noticed that the dipstick was brown from about two inches above oil level all the way down. Does any one have an idea what it can be?
    Thanks in advance for response.
  • 01pf_se01pf_se Member Posts: 10
    sounds like your engine has been neglected.whens the last time you changed your oil? is there any oil in there?
  • kwazeetechkwazeetech Member Posts: 2
    My pathfinder wont go over 35 mph and it smells like something is burning. I had it towed to the dealer but left with it because they charge ridiculous prices...they told me it could either be a clogged cat. conv. and also my manifold is cracked on both sides. Can the car even run like that? they told me it would be 1600 to fix... anyone else have manifold or cat converter problems?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A muffler shop can test your catalytic pretty easily with a bypass pipe and a short test drive. Cracked exhaust manifolds usually make a noise on acceleration like a card stuck in a bicycle's spokes.

    A clogged catalytic is dangerous to drive around with (possible undercar fire).
  • kwazeetechkwazeetech Member Posts: 2
    Thanx Mr Shiftright... What happens if i drive (take) the car to another shop with a cracked manifold? is that a big deal? (i will probably have to replace the cat converter there)
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    Cracked manifolds are common on the Nissan V6 engines. They usually crack around the middle (front to back). It's a small crack, and usually wouldn't result in too much noise or any further damage. As for the cat., it's 11 years old. About time to be replaced anyway. Check out muffler places - they are usually a lot less than the stealer, er dealer. I don't think you will damage it by driving - the manifold crack is probably at least a few years old. They gradually get larger but it takes a few years before they become problematic. It should be fixed eventually, as if it gets too large you can get too much exhaust gas under the hood and that can work its' way into the cab (poison). Worst case, a very bad crack (pieces fall out) can result in an engine fire. You'd be objecting to the noise before that happened however. If you're into performance, check out "headers", which are available for the 3L engine. They may be expensive to install but would probably be less to buy than manifolds from the dealer (which are also expensive to install). I'm not sure about your vehicle, but sometimes they have to unbolt the engine and lift it a bit to install exhaust manifolds or headers - hence the large cost you were quoted. Stock cats. are usually very expensive as well so the high quote is pretty normal for a dealer. I'll bet a muffler shop can sell you a new cat. for 1/3 the dealer price.
  • smurphymnsmurphymn Member Posts: 3
    My 2000 Pathfinder needs to have its engine replaced due to poor oil maintenance. Does anyone know what a reasonable cost for a rebuilt or remanufactured engine replacement is, including labor?
  • smurphymnsmurphymn Member Posts: 3
    Any thoughts on what a reasobale cost is (labor and engine) to put in a used or rebuilt engine in a 2000 Pathfinder. By the way, its a good idea to make sure your oil is changed frequently, it is/was an expensive lesson for us.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    What kind of oil change neglect are we talking about here? What kind of mileage is on the Pathy?

    Did you get a second opinion on the reason for the engine conking out?

    Steve, Host
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Did you buy the Pathfinder used or new? Oil change intervals are stated in the owners' manual. Many vehicle owners change the oil more frequently than that, usually every 3000 miles.

    If you have another vehicle, be sure to keep up on the oil changes for that as well.

    BTW, there are other fluids on the vehicle that need changing periodically, too. Don't neglect those, or you'll wind up replacing the transmission, differentials, power steering system, brake system, and more!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My '99 Quest has a similar engine to the one in the Pathfinder. I'm on a 7,500 oil change interval (per the manual) at 109,000 miles.

    I've heard of some Toyotas sludging up even on the factory recommended interval, so that's why I'm curious about this situation.

    Steve, Host
  • km4divekm4dive Member Posts: 1
    I had the same stalling and clanking issue with my 2001 Pathfinder with 53,000 miles on the engine. I would take your vehicle into the dealer to let them diagnose why your engine was stalling. My engine would run smooth as I have had all the required maintenance done on it, but when I stopped at the light, the engine would cut out and stall. After it stalled, sometimes it would easily restart, and sometimes it would not. I took it into the dealer to diagnose, but nothing came up in the trouble codes, so I took it back home and drove it for a few days. Then as I was driving it the following week, it started making a very loud clanking noise, I then shut off the engine and had it towed into the dealer. They found out that the screws on the throttle plate had come off, causing the screws and throttle plate being sucked into the engine. This has caused major engine damage. Lucky this will hopefully be covered under their 5 year, 60,000 mile power train warranty. I am still waiting to see what exactly they find next week after they tear down the engine. This is a very expensive labor authorization for taking off the cylinder heads to diagnose the amount of damage done. It seems that this is not an isolated issue as the dealer also happened to have a 2002 pathfinder with the same problem and they has to replace the engine with a New Long Block. I hope this helps your question.
  • gfro27gfro27 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Pathfinder and as I got off the highway today I heard a clicking in the engine. I stopped at a trusted mechanic near my office and he said it was likely going to be a major engine problem and may require replacement. He's looking at it right now. He said to start getting oil change receipts and contact Nissan corporate for this.

    I have 58000 miles on it. What kind of engine warranty comes standard with a Pathfinder? Any suggestions on which route I can go with this?

    Thanks,

    Gregg
  • path96path96 Member Posts: 1
    First im sorry my English language, i havent use it for while.

    I bought my Path month ago and i have couple troubles with it

    - I need service book with explosion pictures ( motor )
    - Big belt tyre which is connected with two belts
    ( it has also vulcanic rubber part ? ) is broken
    its connected A/c, water pump with belts
    ( i know that nobody couldnt understand what i mean ) But if, is this "belt tyre " easy or hard to change ?
    - One part missing sunroof ( inside cover )

    If someone understand me and can maybe help

    With many best wishes

    Arto from Finland

    arthur@netti.fi
  • rs4rs4 Member Posts: 25
    I have this rattling noise from the rear end underneath the vehicle. The technician at the dealership said that it has something to do with the Parking brakes. He said that it is the characteristic of the vehicle, and currently there is no fix for this solution. Later I contacted the Nissan Customer department too and they had the same answer.The noise is very loud when you drive over a rough surface and if you have your windows open. Does any one has this issue ? Is there a solution to fix this. Please help, I have been trying to fix this for 1 year now.

    Thanks
  • gfro27gfro27 Member Posts: 2
    The first mechanic, diagnosed the clicking noise and determined it was a rod knock. So I had the vehicle towed to the dealer. Of course when I got it to the dealer, the clicking was completely gone. And they say that the engine looks good.

    I've asked them what the sound could have been and they can't come up with an explanation. I am only 1500 miles away from my warranty being up.

    Does anyone have any ideas on what I should do? I'm picking the vehicle up this afternoon and bringing it to the original mechanic to see what he has to say. Then a third party mechanic.

    The people at the dealership seem a little fishy and are very reluctant to look into the engine. Any advice would be appreciated.

    Thanks,

    Gregg
  • cally07cally07 Member Posts: 2
    I am the owner of a 2004 Pathfinder SE with approximately 25,000 miles on it. I have been hearing some weird noise coming from the engine....particularly when I start the car. It sounds like something is loose, but I'm not sure. Also, the car has been acting like its about to shut off. I called the dealer nearest to me, and they won't squeeze me in. Has anyone had similar problems??? Please help.
  • zzr12zzr12 Member Posts: 18
    I have a 2004 LE. Ever since new, particularily when cold, I hear a rattling or buzzing noise underneath the vehicle when I first start it up. This then goes away after approx 3-4 mins of driving. I think the noise is coming from the heat shields underneath but I have never bothered to check because as mentioned , it goes away. Hope this helps.
  • cally07cally07 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. I actually thought that my problem was weather related too, during the winter months, it seemed to go away after about 10 minutes, but now its summer, and the noise is continuous while I drive. Also, the car shakes and behaves like its going to cut off. I've just been able to get an appointment with the dealer who serviced the car about 1 month ago. I'll be sure to post their diagnosis.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    There have been a few cases of throttle plates coming loose reported on this board. Make sure they look at them. If they come all the way off the engine will ingest them and that's terminal! I suspect it's the "secondary" throttle plates, as the primary ones coming off would make the vehicle undrivable.
  • gregg_jonesgregg_jones Member Posts: 1
    Have 95 Pathfinder Xe and just learned a freind had same problem with 95 truck. Problem comes and goes. Mechanic couldn't find problem. Many relays possible culprit. Any suggestions.
  • steve2002steve2002 Member Posts: 4
    my 2003 pathfinder se over heats while pulling my boat up hills. the car is rated to pull 5000lbs and my boat weighs only 2900lbs so I don't see a reason it should not be able to handle pulling this boat. I have had the fan clutch replaced, the thermostat replaced and the water control valve(another thermostat)replaced. so after $1100.00 and two different shops not able to fix it, I'm at a lost. any help would be greatly appreciated. thanks
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    How do you know the boat weighs only 2900 lbs.? How much does the trailer weigh? How many miles on the truck? Automatic or manual trans? Have you owned the truck since new? How many times has the cooling system been flushed? Why did the shop(s) replace the parts indicated above? What did they see that made them think the parts they replaced were bad? Were they just guessing, or did they do a proper analysis? For example, if your thermostat was causing an overheating condition, it's likely it would not be limited to only when you are towing the boat up a hill. Why do you think the truck is overheating? The temperature gauge? I have an '01 Pathfinder and have frequently towed my boat and trailer that weigh 4500 lbs. total. The temperature gauge is more or less the same towing verus non-towing.
  • steve2002steve2002 Member Posts: 4
    thanks for responding. I weighed my boat and trailer at a truck scale for a combine weight of 2900. it is a automatic transmission with 60,000 miles on it. I bought it used from the dealer a few months back. cooling system was inspected and flushed when they replaced the thermostats. mechanic said he felt there was not enough circulation which is why he replaced them. the first shop replaced the fan clutch based on the temp rising only on hills with the boat but not on flat ground. when pulling up hill the temp gauge will start climbing rapidly and within a mile will be in the danger zone. as I start down a hill the engine will cool off quite quickly. it can go from from hot to normal temp within a matter a seconds. also one way I was able to cool down the engine originally was to rev up the rpm to 2500 in neutral and that seem to cool it down. how about the oil pump going bad instead of something with the cooling system?
    thanks
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Do you know if the previous owner ever took it off-road? There may be mud or debris in the radiator. Try spraying the radiator (through the front of the grille and from behind, through the fan shroud ) with a garden hose to clean it out.

    Also, when towing, be sure to turn the transmission overdrive OFF.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    You're right, towing 2900 lbs should be no issue at all for your truck. First of all, didn't the dealer you bought the truck from give you a warranty? If yes, would this repair be covered? If yes, it's their responsibility to diagnose the problem, not yours. I agree with Explorx4's suggestions. Also, what is your approximate engine speed when you are towing up the hill? If it's much over 3000 RPM you might try to go up the hill at about 3000 RPM so that the engine does not have to work as hard, and I would have the guy who replaced the thermostat check all the hoses (especially the lower radiator hose) to see if one or more are collapsing from the stronger vacuum the water pump creates at higher engine speeds (say, over 3000 RPM). The fact that the engine cools down so quickly makes me agree with the mechanic that thought there was a circulation problem, and the fact that you could quickly cool down the engine at 2500 RPM in neutral suggests that the fan clutch was operating properly. Please make sure you share with us how you are able to resolve the problem.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd have the radiator pulled and cleaned or replaced I think. It definitely sounds like a coolant circulation issue, not an air circulation issue. You might also consider a transmission cooler.
  • steve2002steve2002 Member Posts: 4
    the warranty ran out 500 miles ago. go figure. after I got it back from the shop I went up a hill at about 45 miles per hour with the boat so has not to overwork the engine and the temp. still rose very rapidly (it was just about to go into the red at the top of the hill)and once I started down the hill the temp started dropping back down to normal right away. the hill is only about a mile long. I tried this both with the overdrive on and again with the overdrive off and had the same result. I will suggest the hoses to the shop like you said. originally when this started I did notice when I rev the motor up to about 4000 rpm the lower hose started to collapse a bit. told the mechanic about it but he did not seem to concerned about it. should this hose be a reinvorsed hose?
    thanks.
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    Steve, I don't know what a reinvorsed hose is, but if you were able to see the lower hose start to collapse, it definitely needs replacement. Of course that doesn't guarantee your problem will be solved, but I would not be surprised if that was the only thing ever wrong with your cooling system. If that turns out to be the case I would complain loudly to whoever you paid to replace the thermostat and fan clutch, and demand a refund, unless they told you (and you agreed) before they made the repair what they were going to do and that it might not solve the issue. If you are so inclined, I would even go to small claims court to recover your money. For them to have not picked up on a bad hose, assuming you explained the problem the same way as you posted here, is inexcusable for someone who holds themself out to be an automotive technician. You need to find a mechanic who knows how and is willing to take the time to diagnose problems, not just start blindly replacing parts. With all due respect, I tend to disagree with Mr. Shiftright...doubt you have a radiator issue. While a larger trans cooler would not be a bad thing, your truck already has one from the factory and your truck should have no issue towing 2900 lbs. What I would do is have your trans fluid completely flushed (not just a drain and refill, which does not replace the fluid in the toque converter) in the near future, and again at the fluid change intervals shown in your owner's manual. Please let us know what happens with you truck as we can all learn from your experience.
  • eclipse2eclipse2 Member Posts: 64
    We got this Pathfinder at the end of Dec new and in Feb we had to get the belts done because they snap! then 2 days ago they snap again! and guess what today it snap again! the dealer said that Nissan knows about this and is working on a fix for this well this is the 3 time and we have plans on going away on a 10 hour drive this week coming it only has 6000 miles on this Suv and all they did was change the belts each time it happen! is this a case for the lemon law? I hate this Suv we should have gotten the Acura MDX.....6000 miles and the belts changed 3 times :lemon:
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Seriously, this could be a really simple fix, and it would only take a few minutes of your time in the driveway. Spray the radiator with a garden hose. If the water comes out brown, then that means the radiator is clogged with mud. No matter what else you do to the cooling system, it won't help if your radiator isn't allowing air to flow.

    On the other hand, if the water runs clear, or if you've already done this, then I guess you have some more troubleshooting to do. :confuse:
  • steve2002steve2002 Member Posts: 4
    I'll let you know, I return it to the shop this wednesday, it will be interesting to see how they handle this after paying them so much not to fix the problem. and yes I told them about the hose starting to collaspe but they seemed to think that the hose was collasping as a result of whatever the problem is not that the problem was the hose.will see.
  • woody17woody17 Member Posts: 1
    I am looking at purchasing a '97 pathfinder with 114KM and I am concerned on the milage or life of the engine. What do you feel is the life of the engine before in needs to be rebuilt?
  • 01pf_se01pf_se Member Posts: 10
    if your engine was properly maintained than its just been broken in at 114,000 miles. you can go 200 -300,000 miles easy if taken care of.
  • manualfreakmanualfreak Member Posts: 1
    Howdy everyone.
    I have got a manual 2002 pathfinder. The check engine light comes on (and stays) after I drive on highway with cruise on. After it happened the first time I went to a mechanic I know and he said it's oxygen sensor #2 and zeroed the thing. But after 600-700 miles in a similar situation it went on again. Do you guys have an idea why this is happening? Is the sensor really faulty or do you think it's because when a manual car goes on cruise uphill, since the gearbox cannot kickdown, the gas-air mixture becomes richer in gas (and poorer in oxygen), which triggers the sensor to send a signal?
    Many thanks for your responses.
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    I have replaced 2 of the 4 oxygen sensors on my 2001 PF. Both times I had an intermittent check engine light & the code indicated the sensors specifically. I replaced them myself & reset the codes & it hasn't returned either time. Not sure what the mechanic could have done to "zero the thing." Good luck if you have to pay the dealership to do it... expensive.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    I agree with the previous poster. The engine has a lot more life left in it. However, at 114,000 miles, you should check that the timing belt has been changed. It's service interval is 105,000 miles. The engine won't last long at all if the timing belt breaks.
  • mowdddy2mowdddy2 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 95 pathfinder with 130000 miles on it and it has been dying at different times just out of the blue when it dies i have no spark but when it sets for a while could be 10 min or as long as 8 hrs it fires right back up and it seemed to die when u turned right had mach look at it replace the part that give coil spark it started then put back on old part and it started again just wandering what could be wrong
  • kornjakekornjake Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Pathfinder SE-V6 automatic transmission with 151000 miles on it. It will only start intermittently. I have replaced the starter, the fuse linkage(at the suggestion of my mechanic), and the battery checks out ok. I have been having this problem for a while and cannot figure out if it is in the wiring to the starter or the ignition. I have found that alot of people right in with this same problem but no one can come up with an actual solution. Any feedback or advice on what to do will be greatly appreciated.
  • mypfmypf Member Posts: 1
    kornjake,
    I am having the same problem and my PF is at 60K. I have found plent of sights where people experience this. I think it is in the electrical harness, particularly in the ignition switch.
    When I put in the key and turn it, the fuel system pressures up and anything connected directly to the battery (radio and air blower) come on. Anything connected to the ignition switch is unresponsive (dash lights, ignition, windows, etc). The only thing I have found to do is leave the key in the ignition and walk away. After about ten minutes it usually begins to respond. I have left two messages with my local dealer to get a quote on parts and labor for a new harness.

    Good luck.
  • frustrated03frustrated03 Member Posts: 3
    I have been dealing w/ this for 2 yrs now. 2003 PF bought new. In the end of '04 it started-the car would just lose power. Took to dealer & about 6 times(over 2 yrs)they were unable to duplicate the complaint. 2 x's the SES light came on & they replaced the VTC Solenoid(2x's). Among other things,I had an oil change on Jan 31 & apparently an oil leak repaired,& SES light came on May 9,took to dealer and was told there was no oil in my car!BONE DRY! They then supposedly repaired an oil leak again(& that pesky VTC thing)then last week the car lost power again! back to the dealership-the car has less than 2 quarts of oil-Now I am going through an oil consumption test. Any other complaints similiar???
  • shark715shark715 Member Posts: 382
    Steve, just curious...what happened when you took the truck to the shop on Wednesday?
  • ccr_79ccr_79 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 92 Pathfinder SE, auto, 4x4, 166,000 miles. I was driving along and went to accelerate through a traffic light,and the engine revved up, but I wasn't going any faster. I coasted to a stop and when I went to try all the gears, I had nothing. I checked the fluid and it was at a safe level, and it didn't smell burnt. There was no visible leakage underneath. No slipping to speak of either. The only thing, is that when I would first start it up, the shifter was a little stubborn, but after 20 seconds or so, I was able to shift in gear and take off. I took it to a tranny shop and the mechanic checked it over, but said it would cost $300 just to take it out and inspect it. I just put insurance on it earlier that day, and haven't had the chance to enjoy it. Can anyone help? :confuse:
  • pwlong19pwlong19 Member Posts: 3
    Intermittent problem. After several starts and stops during the day, I go to start the car and the car wont start. When I turn the key, all I hear is clicking of a relay, possibly two relays clicking. All other electrical working, ie radio, indicator lights, power windows, etc. If I let the car sit long enough, then it will start.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Try cleaning the battery terminals. A bad connection there will often cause the symptoms you've described.
  • jim243jim243 Member Posts: 7
    I just had a very similar problem with a 1998 Pathfinder that I first thought was fuel related. I topped off my tank with 6.5 gallons of gas on a Friday. Drove home without a problem, did not use it much over the weekend and left for Florida on Monday and returned on Saturday. Did not use it on the weekend and used it on Monday for the first time. It stalled backing out of my driveway, stalled again in the street and had numerious problens starting it. It even stalled while driving. My initial reaction was dirty gas or water in the gas. I replaced the fuel filter, added fuel injector cleaner and dry gas. I was forced to use starting fluid to get it going but sometimes even starting fluid did not work. It seemed starved for fuel because after the starting fluid burned off it was like the igition wires had been put on the wrong plugs. Sometimes it would start and run just fine but if you turned it off it would not restart. Sometimes you could crank it 20 times before it would start. This lead me to replace the fuel filter again but with no change in the performance. I then decided to replace the fuel pump (that was not too much fun). I tested the fuel pump after it was removed and it worked. I replaced it because I thought it might not be putting out the right pressure or not overcoming the starting resistance. Again there was no improvement in performance.

    I then did more research and began to suspect the fuel pump relay. It is located in the engine compartment next to the battery in the fuse/relay box. I checked the relay when starting and could feel it click. I then decided to check the power from the relay to the fuel pump. I disconnected the wiring harness at the fuel pump (under the rear seat, access plate removed). There are 2 connectors -- the smaller connector powers fuel pump -- the larger connector is for the fuel temperature and fuel level. I connected a test light to the 2 terminals on the wire harness. At first the test light did not come on when the ignition was turned on. I removed the relay and re-seated it. Finally the light came on but when I removed the test light and connected the harness to the fuel pump and turned on the ignition it did not start. After numerious times I re-seated the relay and then the engine started. I can only figure that the contacts on the relay or the wiring harness were corroded. I then used electrical contact cleaner on the terminals and it starts every time. To be on the safe side I replaced fuel pump relay and I also cleaned out the fuse/relay box by removing the bottom of the box. I did not notice any corrosion on any of the contacts. There was only normal dust from the engine compartment and 2 dead spiders at the bottom of the case. I took apart the old relay figuring it might have a spider web in it that prevented electrical contact but it was crystal clean. I gave you as much detail as possible so you could see some of the false leads I followed. My best advice is not to make assumptions but try to use some logic and test the components to be sure they are working or not.
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