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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • 99accent99accent Posts: 232
    Heres my plan ,please let me know if I have any interference problems with this. ASAP . 2003 pathfinder LE WITH REMOTE START.

    chip key stays hidden inside the car say in ashtray .
    Remote stays on key ring to open and close windows or door locks AND START
    Extra flat blank key that works I tried it ,is hidden outside the car incase of loosing the remote
  • 99accent99accent Posts: 232
    I opened my rear door with a flat ordinary key that was cut fron the chip key ,but what ever I did I lost my remote start but the doors all lock and unlock with the remote, whats up or did I disarm my remote start ?when I opened the rear door? some one said follow the instructions to set up a new remote and your remote start will come back ,is this true?
  • I have a 92 Pathfinder SE, 2wd, 3L V6, 5 speed that will not turn the engine over. For about a year now it would just click when I turned the key on, then you could turn the key off and back on and it would start fine. I took it to the local mechanic and he put a new starter and solenoid, but it still will not turn the motor over. The mechanic said he can't fix and he will tow to dealer for $200. Is there a way to test the switch on the clutch? Is there a way to test the ignition switch? Or is there anything else that might be wrong, the mechanic said it would start if you jumped with a wire from the battery. Thanks for any help. :confuse:
  • 99accent99accent Posts: 232
    Ill bet its the security system ,because on most aftermarket starters you have to hit the lock button twice on the remote while its locked. then it will start, so it you are tuning the key on off on its basicaly the same thing as the remote.
  • It does not have a remote, manual locks.
  • I just put new bulbs in both headlights, and replaced the entire unit on the left side because it shattered, but my right headlight is out, and the fuse blows instantly when the headlights are turned on. My left headlight is great, but the right blew two 15amp fuses and a 20amp fuse instantly when the lights turned on.

    My AC has been working when it wants to for the past few months, but today, it wouldn't turn on. Air will blow out, but the light for the AC will not come on, I'v pushed it repeadably, checked that it is getting power, and the fuses, they are all fine, but the light still will not come on and it will not get cold.
  • I had a problem with my 95 pathfinder starting, It woudln't turn over for a while, then it would just start. The problem with mine was the shift lock.
  • 1997 Pathfinder. I noticed while driving on the beach that I hear a clicking noise while turning left. This only happens when the 4WD is on. Does that sound like CV Axle? If so does anyone know how difficult a repair it is? If I can't do it myself , is it expensive to get done?
  • yes it sounds like a cv axle joint going,it could be a job if anything is frozen or rusted on but putting it back together should be easyer,why not ask around to get some prices through a private place not a dealer or stealer.
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,788
    I think that I paid $450 to get both axles replaced on mine
  • I have a 95 Nissan Pathfinder SE V6 Auto. I bought it in June and recently decided to re do the brakes (I only had one wheel that was doing any good braking) and the brakes were starting to pulse pretty bad when I slowed down. So I replaced the front rotors and pads and rear pads. I stop on a dime now but the pulsing has gotten worse!

    For the first few miles the pulsing was gone completely, but it's coming back now.
    Also, it seems to be coming from the front right wheel.

    I did not change the rear rotors, which were very worn. So I'm wondering: Could it be that the new bads with functioning brake pistons have bent the worn rear rotors? Or has the fact that only one wheel was doing most of the breaking bent something somewhere?

    Also, since I re did the brakes at speeds of 55-65 there is a wobble from one of the front wheels, it seems to come and go. Is it possible that these are linked?

    Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
  • xyzedxyzed Posts: 4
    I have a 2001 pathfinder w/120000 miles and my digital clock stopped working about 2 months ago. Called several dealers and the price for a new one was about 200. dollars. I searched on the internet and found subaru-clock.com. I removed the clock (which was quite easy) and mailed the clock. I got it back within a week and it has been working like a charm. Total cost $40. :)
  • joefanjoefan Posts: 3
    I have a Nissan Consult with a 14 pin connector. On the 1992 pathfinder it has a check connector for the E.C.C.S. checker box located below the instrament pannel. Any adaptors? Can I hard wire it? I know E.C.C.S has onboard diagnositcs but it is much easier to link it to my laptop for diagnostics. Any suggestions?
  • joefanjoefan Posts: 3
    If it is turning over but it just wont start it could be your air flow meter. It can sometimes give an intermittant problem that gets worse until it wont start at all. Your pathfinder has onboard diagnositcs on the ECU (under the front passenger seat). You can use that to see if it working. It will check crank angle, air flow and ingnitian signal in the real time diagnostic mode V.

    Another common starting problem for the MT 1992 pathfinders are the interlock relays. If you have full power on the dash, starter is good and battery is good and it just wont turn over sometimes it can be that. As they get older they heat up and sometimes work intermittantly. I just removed mine all together and wired around it. So I can start it without depressing the clutch or the interlock button.
  • I have an 06 that has just started to do the exact same thing/....blowing a large (embarrassing) white cloud of smoke when starting the engine cold - that being if the truck has sat for at least a couple hours. It does not do it at all after the initial cloud on start up.
    The truck is due to go back as lease maturing shortly and I intended on buying the vehicle out. With this new problem though, I dont want to inherit the cost of a major engine overhaul or a rebuild of the heads. Has anyone else encountered this and actually had the problem diagnosed/ repaired?
  • 99accent99accent Posts: 232
    it just might be a head gasket letting some antifreeze into a cylinder try a good stop leak into the radiator ,if it stops smoking then it is the head gasket which may be ok until it gets worse .
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    99 accent might be correct about the head gasket, but I would avoid using radiator stop leak as it will often clog your radiator long term. How may miles does your truck have? Have you followed the owners manual without fail for oil and coolant changes? Is your truck still under warranty by any chance? The only inexpensive repair that comes to mind that might be causing the problem could be a clogged PCV valve. You might want to invest paying a hour's worth of labor with a trusted mechanic to diagnose the problem for sure. Her/she can pressure test the cooling system for a blown head gasket and also run an engine compression test. If the problem is one of the head gaskets and the truck is otherwise in good shape and you have correctly maintained it, it may not be silly to invest in a new head gasket...would only be 4 to 5 hours of labor, and you would not be talking about expensive parts. If it is a compression problem your mechanic may be able to advise you if the problem is likely to get worse. If you can live with the embarrassment, it's very possible it may not get worse for many years.
  • I have a 07 Pathfinder, 2x4. Recently, I had to swerve to miss a car and ended up hitting the curb with both left side wheels. Now, I know that I need a front end alignment, but I have looked at the rear (quick visual, not down and dirty) and it looks like I might have screwed up something on the left rear. The rear end feels like its slipping when I am going up a hill on a wet road. Is this situation repariable?
  • 99accent99accent Posts: 232
    ITS A GOOD THING TO HAVE TESTED THE RADIAT :blush: OR PRESSURE TEST
  • gsemikegsemike Long Island, NYPosts: 1,788
    Take it to be trusted bodyshop and ask them to check it. Collision should cover it
  • yidal8yidal8 Posts: 1
    what is the recommended interval to change fluid in the transfer case of the 2003 LE? Also, what type of fluid should be used.
    I have 75,000miles on mine, and obviously never changed that fluid....
  • shark715shark715 Posts: 380
    Changing the transfer fluid is not specified by Nissan
  • 99accent99accent Posts: 232
    the tune up recomended in the manual, at 103K whats the whole thing consist of and how much Mulla$ :surprise:
  • 99accent99accent Posts: 232
    true its so thick and it lasts forever ,sort of like a self seald bearing ;)
  • Hi, I need to change the brake pads of my 2002 pf. With the economy how it is I think its best if I do it myself. Is it difficult or treacky and do I need any special tools in order to get the job done?? How do I do it, is there a site that I can go to that will be able to help?

    Thanks for the info.
  • I'm driving a great 2000 Nissan Pathfinder SE 2x4 with 142K miles on it. I keep seeing these commercials on tv like stoprepairbills.com and it got me thinking...if i plan on driving my car for another 3+ years, should i seriously consider getting an extended warranty? do any of you have experience, advice, or insight to share with me? i've had a rough past couple of years in terms of saving for a rainy day, so i'm worried that a major repair to my great but ageing car might bite me in the butt if a major problems occurs with my car. another question, if i do go with an extended warranty, tell me what you think i should be paying a month so i don't get ripped off. i appreciate your answers and the great knowledge on these boards. thanks.
  • 99accent99accent Posts: 232
    I would read the fine print on those warren tees,some times it dont pay with over 125,000 on the car. and sometimes the coverage is only for the drive train.
  • dmurr3dmurr3 Posts: 11
    Hi Amoreno,
    I have zero expertise with this question; I'm just going to share my personal opinion. I've almost always felt that extended warranties are a waste of money, with an exception being a warranty on new, unproven technology. That said, I haven't done any research on these new warranties you mentioned, so I'm not sure how good they are.

    Here's some info on my 2001 Pathfinder with 110k, in case you find it helpful...I've tracked the cost of nearly every repair I've done on the truck, such as new belts, oil changes, bulb replacements, wipers, tires, sensors, you name it. Based on the age of the truck as compared to the total cost of all maintenance and repairs, I'm paying on average $60/mo. to keep this truck running. This figure does not include gas, inspection, insurance, etc.

    There are a thousand variables that go into a calculation such as this. However, overall I think I do a good job of keeping up with routine maintenance to prevent unnecessary repairs while not doing the excessive maintenance a dealer might recommend. I do most minor maintenance myself (oil changes, coolant flush, bulb replacement) which will keep the cost down vs. someone who is dependent on a mechanic to do all the work. The rest I leave to my mechanic who is fair about what he charges.

    For comparison, my wife's 2005 Honda CRV with 85k costs us about $35/mo. and my father's 2001 Sante Fe with 120k costs him about $50/mo.

    I don't know if this helps you or not. Again, tons of variables come into play with my calculation. But I think this type of calculation is overlooked by most car owners. For me this is a great way to budget for repairs. For you it might give you a general idea as what to expect in terms of monthly cost to keep your truck running. I believe the 2000 Pathfinder is very similar to the 2001 Pathfinder. For the most part, the repairs I've made to my Pathfinder are pretty much on par with what other 2001 Pathfinder owners have had to have done (except for when i was broke and bought cheap tires. That one cost me!) But all things being equal, my guess is you should expect to pay at least $60/mo. to keep your Pathfinder on the road. If I were in your spot I would budget even more than that given the miles you have on the truck. Perhaps compare that to what a warranty may cost you per month.

    I hope this is helpful. And if you opt against the warranty and your transmission drops next week, you never read this posting.....

    Anyone else do this for their Pathfinder? It would be great to see what others have come up with...

    Dave
  • Trouble started right after fueling. Running rough, then quit completely. Thought it was fuel pump, so had it changed. Started several times, drove about 30 miles, then would not start again. Mechanic removed cables, then started several times and quit again. No codes are showing up on computer. We have no clue where to start. Any ideas?
  • 99accent99accent Posts: 232
    EITHER TAKE IT TO AUTO ZONE OR A PARTS PLACE THAT CHECKS IT FOR FREE, OR TO THE DEALER AND THEY HAVE TO DIAGNOSE IT THROUGH THERE COMPLETE DIAGNOSTIC CENTER, IT SEEMS LIKE THE FUEL PUMP IS BEING SHUT OFF AND THATS USUALLY WHEN YOU HAVE A REMOTE STARTER AND STEP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL THEN IT SHUTS OFF THE FUEL PUMP BUT IF YOU DONT HAVE A REMOTE STARTER ITS SOME THING TO DO WITH A CONNECTION TO THE FUEL PUMP IF THE PUMP HAS 2 WIRES THE BLACK ONE YOU CAN GROUND TO CHASSY AND THE RED ONE UP TO THE BATTERY TERMINAL red ONE TO + THIS WILL KEEP THE PUMP ON IF THE PUMP DONT RUN ITS A BAD PUMP IF YOU HEAR IT RUNNING THEN START IT ,IF IT KEEPS RUNNING THATS IT A SHORT OR NO CONNECTION IN THE ORIGINAL WIRE HARNESS, [NOTE] TO SHUT THE ENGINE OFF DISCONNECT THE PUMP FIRST THEN THE KEY INGINITON KEY 2ND. lol
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