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I own a '02 Pathfinder 4WD with over 150K, and the SES light came on about 3 weeks ago. It has been off and on - we tried tightening down the fuel cap, and that seemed to help for a little bit.
Anyway, O'reilly ran the dx machine and the code P1167 came back. I've done some internet surfing and it seems the code is for the Oxygen Sensor, but I can't figure out whether it is rear (inclined to think so) and whether it is drivers or passengers side. Different people claim different things, and since it runs at least $80 at a parts store I'd rather not install it wrong and have to buy two.
Also, I'm planning on changing it myself, but don't own a modified-O2 sensor socket...can a regular wrench be used w/out harming the wiring?
Finally, a fuse is bad as well - at night we can't make out our RPM or temp meter, though the light for the MPH & Gas gage are working just fine. Would the SES light be connected by chance to a blown fuse?
Thanks for any help you can give. Appreciate it!
-slimbear
http://x.nissanhelp.com/forums/Knowledgebase.html?catid=241&filter=&page=1&keyid- =44
I hope O2 sensors aren't hard to change out in Pathfinders, because I'm planning on doing it myself this Tues.
Thanks again for the help.
I see a lot of the v6 35D engines need chain tensioner replaced at only 50,000 miles, I started to here a slapping noise but it runs good, should I have it checked out buy the dealer, and what would this fix repair cost me? anyone ever have a chain done
have that timing belt checked out before you run it again.
I hope thats the problem the belt thats an easy fix if it is
Took it to the dealership and they have diagnosed that 3 out of the 6 ignition coils have failed and that the other three are weak. If they replace the 3 failed ignition coils, they say that leaving the three weak ignition coils will still cause the service engine light to go off, not allowing my car to pass inspection which I need to do this month.
They wanted $1300 to replace all six ignition coils and spark plugs. Ignition cables are $135/each and labor is $390.
Instead of paying that ridiculous amount, I ordered the parts from RockAuto for $320 and paid a local repair shop $170 to install the new coils and plugs.
After clearing the code, on the second start, the P1320 code comes back. So far, my shop has found nothing wrong with the MAF, crank/camshaft sensors and wiring.
Note, thru-out all of this, my car starts and runs fine. The only thing noticeable is a high drop in gas mileage.
They took the car to another shop they work with and they believe that the coils I bought might not be working properly and suggest replacing all of the coils again.
Right now, I'm having them replace the 1st(different than 2-6) coil. If that doesn't work, try swapping a new coil in for 2-6 to see if they can determine if just one of the coils is bad.
Any other ideas besides taking it back to the dealership? They'll probably want to replace all of the coils with oem ones first.
Anybody else have this issue with their Pathfinder?
Thanks for reading...
removed blower motor and put 12 volts on leads, motor engaged no problem. checked fuses and they are good. put meter on connector and the voltage was very low. Any ideas on what else i can check?
the easy thing to check is the radiator cap ,they do get distorted or cracked ,this is the first thing to check or just get a new one from Nissan, there was a discrepancy one of those caps because one is 3 lbs less in pressure rating that the other ,so make sure you get the right one . :shades:
Thanks!
definately worth looking into. I would say bring it to a dealer to see if it's a recall situation (they will charge a diagnostic fee but you're under no obligation to get the work done there), then find out what it is. If it's a recall and no cost have them do it. If it's not... get the work done elsewhere if that's your choice.
1) For no cost, any Autozone store, as well as many other places, will tell you what code(s) are stored in the engine computer. They will give you the actual code number, and tell you what the error code means. If the problem is in fact one of the IVTC sensors, they will tell if it’s the left one or the right one (each one has a different error code).
2) Make a note of the error code as well as if it’s the left side or the right side, and then visit several different garages or dealers of your choice. Explain to them that you know exactly what’s wrong with the truck, and you are trying to get the repair done for the lowest cost. Most will work with you, and the ones who are evasive about giving you a price are not the ones you want.
3) Ask them what they would charge you for the part, and also ask them how they calculate their labor charges. Many garages, and almost all dealers, use a “flat rate book”, which is essentially a list of the amount of time it should take a mechanic to complete a specific repair. If the flat rate book says the repair will take 1.0 hours, you will pay for 1.0 hours worth of labor irrespective of the actual time the repair takes. A very experienced mechanic can “beat” the times in the flat rate book by 25 to 50%, and will typically do so because the garage pays him or her based the repairs completed, not by the hour. So any place that uses a flat rate book can tell you the exact cost of the repair up front if they want to. You don’t need to pay for time to diagnose the problem with the truck since you know exactly what’s needed, although most reputable establishments will take the three minutes it takes to double check the code stored in the computer before they start the work. If a garage wants to charge you based on the actual time the repair takes them, you can win or lose. An experienced mechanic can easily beat the flat rate book, and an inexperienced mechanic might take much longer, and might not complete the job correctly, although replacing one of these valves is not unusual at all, and not difficult, and any mechanic with Nissan experience will know what exactly what the job involves before he or she starts.
I would suggest you do have the repair done, although it’s not an emergency. In many states the truck will not pass inspection if the check engine light is lit. Also, if the truck has further issues down the road, then you are going to pay more in diagnostic charges for a mechanic that will have to spend time sorting out multiple issues. BTW, there was never any recall on these valves the repair will need to be paid for.
I will go to Auto Zone and have them read it for us. She has over 180,000 miles on this vehicle and we need it to last much longer!
I thank you for your assistance Mr (ms.) Shark!
It's no problim with a Pathfinder to cross a hot desert, but you shoud always check water , and oil , and you should always have water as much as you can during your travel.
A pathfinder owner.
Also, perhaps its worth doublechecking. I think my shocks are done as my Nissan beginns to sway when driving between 70 and 90 and not accelarting too much. It starts after a bump and stops immediately when accelerating harder or not at all. Its sways less when taking off the roof top tent, but still does. I wouldn't no any other reason ...
Thanks
Springbok2
I really hope, you'll get it solved. It must be something that wears out as we didn't have the swinging the first years of the car. But to try 4 new shock absorbers isn't a cheap way ...
It's a fairly significant job and the bushings need to be pressed in be a machine shop. If I recall, I was changed for 5 or 6 hours and the new bushings and hardware was under $200. There are uppers and lowers. You need the bushings for both to be sure that you fix it.
My PF felt totally different on the highway after it was fixed.
so for this reason , of its all true , can I be safe buy using the limited slip gear oil in both front and rear differentials, but you cant do the opposite , you cant use a non limited slip gear oil in a limited slip differential
Please don't post if you don't know what you're talkinga bout. Lemon laws are state specific and I've never seen one that only requires two repairs...most are three repairs of same item or 30 days out of service plus other requirements. Then it's a lenghty process to actually push for a lemon law replacement unless the dealer/manufacturer is extremely cooperative. Plus it generally only applies to NEW vehicles in service for the first 18 months/18,000 miles (generally).
Has anyone experienced or heard of this? Thank you.
he put it on the machine then replaced the distributor. It will turn over but not start put it back on the code reader it is not throwing any codes just wont start no spark. Any clues as to what to try next?
The rubber hose is an L shaped that goes down behind the timing casing and I assume that it leads to the water pump. My question is can I remove the distributor unit to be able to replace split hose?
The only other option seems to be going in thru all the belts pulleys and timing unit.
Any help on this would be greatly appreciated