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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mj725mj725 Member Posts: 7
    I have noticed the same with my 2001 SE.
  • natalie02lenatalie02le Member Posts: 19
    With less than 2k miles on my 02LE 4x4, while driving 50mph, the electronic control module (ECM) died. The result is the same as turning the key off. Has anyone experienced this or should I believe it just a uniquely bad part? Could an electrical problem cause this?
    Also, dealer says Nissan does not overnight warranty parts. I have seen similar evidence of warranty part delays in this message board. Going on a week waiting on part.
  • khazkhaz Member Posts: 1
    Hi -

    I have a '99 Pathfinder and want to remove the factory roofrack in order to install a Yakima. I need the higher weight for a a pair of kayaks. Factory will only hold 100lbs, Yak will take 165.

    Is it possible to remove a factory rack?

    TIA!
  • alkanxalkanx Member Posts: 69
    Greetings all, just joined this group, interesting that many other folks have Pathfinder shimmy fiasco. I own a 2001 Nissan Pathfinder SE auto, have put on about 32k miles. I have had an ongoing problem with shimmy, comes & goes depending on the road. Last month I bought new set of Michelin LTX tires, the problem stayed the same. Finally did some research & found some service bulletins, dealership made some adjustment in the steering rack sliding force, technician stated it was too low, problem is 50 percent gone but small amount of pulse still existed. Few days ago I located the hunter wheel balancer (thanks to you folks), problem is now about 30 percent, still feel low vib in the steering & the pedals. It may be that vibrations over a period of time *could* deteriorate seals & other good stuff. I am almost tempted to sell my truck - it is so aggravating. What do you folks recommend to completely remove this problem. (Shawn - Seattle WA)
  • mattbrown15mattbrown15 Member Posts: 7
    I have started to notice a pulsating in the brakes accompanied by intermittant brake "noise." The noise is too hard to describe, but is somewhere between a squeel and a grinding...kinda like when an 18-wheeler pumps air brakes (if that makes any sense). I brought it in and sure enough, they need to turn the rotors. It is a 2001 LE with 20,000 miles on it and they say that this is not technically covered by warrantee, but they will try to submit it anyway. I am having a hard time believing that this would not be covered, but would appreciate any opinions someone with more knowledge may have.

    Second...anyone had problems with the auto window feature. Specifically the window going all the way up and then starting back down. Almost like the pinch protection is kicking in improperly? The dealership can't seem to replicate the situation and won't do anything if they can't. Wondering if anyone had the same problem and found a fix for it.

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • mday2mday2 Member Posts: 4
    Hey all, just wondering how these pathfinders hold up over the long run. I definitely want to buy a SUV, but I definitely don't want to buy one that is American. How is the reputation for buying used Pathfinders?
  • alkanxalkanx Member Posts: 69
    I own a 01 PF, paid almost 30G for it & after only a year, I looked up the KBB site for dealer trade in value, it was around 17G, not good at all...

    AL.
  • crikeycrikey Member Posts: 1,041
    I get $22,125 for my 16,000 mile PF with Leather (comes with dual power seats) according to kbb.com. I paid $28,200 + taxes. So, my depreciation is around 26% over 2 years.

    28,200 + 6% taxes = ~$30K
    22,125/30,000 = .74 * 100 = 74%
    Depreciation = 100 - 74 = 26%

    I think that's pretty good for a 2 year old vehicle since I still have about $6000 in equity on it. But, again, it only has 16,000 miles. Go ahead and try it yourself on kbb.com.

    I think the depreciation is dictated, for the most part, by the mileage. In my case, the truck isn't used as much since it's a mommymobile and mommy usually stays home with the Twins.

    But, if you have higher mileage, say in the 40,000 mile range, the depreciation dramatically drops. Mine went to $18,250 with 40,000 miles on it.

    And other than the shimmy (which is totally gone now), I have not had a problem with the Pathfinder. The engine is a jewel and I have no rattles or squeaks. It's just rock solid.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Based on alkanx's post, it looks like you can get a pretty good deal on a used Pathfinder! Not so good for the seller, but great for the buyer!
  • mattman055mattman055 Member Posts: 57
    Hi. I’m this message in hope of getting some help with issues/annoyances I am having with my new 2002 Pathfinder SE. I just reached 2000 miles today, yet there have been many things that have annoyed me with the car. I took it to the dealer once a few weeks after I got it and they claimed nothing was wrong with it.

    I will try to list and describe all of the things, but I am bound to forget a few.

    The list is in no particular order, just how it comes to my head.

    1) Steering – I have driven other cars and suv’s, and the steering on almost every other vehicle I drive has a tendency to want to go back to the center, not the case in my Pathfinder. It almost seems lazy, and if you want to bring it back you have to do it. This is most apparent when making turns, whereas most people just lightly guide the wheels straight, whereas I have to do a little more work than that.

    Also going around corners and turns it seems as though I might be turning the wheel slightly yet it still wants to go straight a little bit. The alignment is fine on the car.

    When I hit bumps in the road, especially when going around a corner and turning it seems as though my steering wheel loses its ‘track’. It just doesn’t feel right.

    2) Ride – I had a previous 99 Pathfinder, and I don’t remember the ride this bad. Every single bump / line / paint / crevasse – anything in the road I feel on this car This happens when its slightly loaded as I haven’t had a heavy load on it yet.

    On the highway I can feel almost everything in the road, even when it’s smooth as silk. It’s frustrating. I have to make many many many adjustments while driving on the highway, especially on highways that have lots of curves; I really travel from side to side in the lane.

    3) Brakes – when I brake, such as making a turn or going around a corner, the steering seems to pick up even more resistance. It gets tight had much harder to maneuver around corners and turns.

    Also when coming to a stop at stop signs and traffic lights about half of the time the brakes making a squeaking noise. Also there seems to be lots of fade, and it doesn’t seem smooth at all when coming to stops.

    4) The carpet in the interior. It does not seem flush at all with the floor of the car. When I touch it with my hand, I can push it down a bit. Also in the drivers foot well where the foot rest is for the left foot the carpet does not seem to fit right around there.

    5) Automatic transmission – When switching from Park to drive, and reverse it is such a harsh transition. IT doesn’t seem to want to switch from each mode smoothly. Also I usually have to wait a second or two for it to engage whichever mode I Selected, and I can ‘feel’ it happen

    6) I’m not sure if this is related to the car, but it easily spins in the rain. Even coming out of the car wash once on a flat service making a turn I spun out the rear wheels. It might just be a combination of the light rear end with a high torque engine, but I have a very very light foot.

    There is probably more, but the major things that tick me off are the steering / ride and braking that I have discussed above. Like I said I have a little bit more than 2000 miles on the car. I don’t know what could cause all of these problems on my car, but they have basically been there since I took delivery on it.

    I brought the car to the dealer a few weeks after getting it, told them about the ride, etc. I was at work that day, but the service manager and a technician drove the car around and said they did not see anything that I found wrong with it.

    So then I thought, ok maybe it’s me. But its not, these problems still exist and I can see them a month later.

    Hopefully someone here has an idea as to why I am having these problems. If I am lucky maybe its one thing that’s not right hat is causing all of these problems, and I can just take it to the dealer, tell him what it is and they will fix it.

    I do really like the pathfinder, and I immensely enjoyed my previous 99 pathfinder. The new engine is really nice, but if only the rest of the car was as nice I would enjoy it much more and not pay attention to these problems.

    Thanks guys if you can help me out,
    Matt

    2002 Nissan Pathfinder SE 3.5
  • rthayerrthayer Member Posts: 10
    You get the Yakima rail riders. Go to their
    site www.yakima.com and follow the steps to get
    the right ones. Take off the crossbars from the
    PF rack, they unscrew and slip over as I recall.
    Store them. Put the rail riders on, the yakima
    bars go thru them (48"bars) I have them on a 99.5
    SE Limited. Weight on these type racks is usually
    somewhere around 150 lbs but ALWAYS use a tiedown
    to the frame front and back in addition to straps.
    BTW, you can always remove the rail riders and
    put the stock bars back if you sell. Good luck
  • joe233joe233 Member Posts: 43
    Does anyone know of something to help better circulate air to the back of the PF? My dog rides behind the rear seats and seems like it doesn't cool down too well back there.
    Any ideas?
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    If your dog seems too hot in the cargo area, you could try getting one of those 12v DC fans (like the ones you see on busses or RVs) and clip it or mount it to the C-pillar... ?????
  • samalarkysamalarky Member Posts: 4
    I have two things occuring with my 95 Pathfinder XE that concern me. First off, when my AC is on it makes a little squeaking noise, which I am told is probably the fan. However, when I make sharper turns, I hear a rumbling and fluid leaks into the vehicle on the passenger side floorboard. The higher up the AC is, the more dripping there is. It is also acompanied bya grumbling. whooshing noise with an even louder squeak. The internal dripping really concerns me. Anybody else have this in an older Pathfiner. It has just under 82K on it.

    Secondly, there is a curious noise when I depress the brake, but it only happens when the vehicle is in park. When I press down on the brake in park I hear a little, yet distinct click that appears to be coming from where the shifter is (it's an automatic 2WD). The brakes operate fine and sound fine in drive or reverse. I was wondering if anyone else has ever heard this click.
  • sevencyclessevencycles Member Posts: 3
    My old Pathfinder did the same thing. There is a pan (black plastic) that collects condensate from the AC unit it is located above the foot well of the front passenger seat ( kinda behind glove box) from that pan there is a rubber drain hose which goes through the firewall to the exterior. When the drain gets clogged the condensate drips down onto the carpet. It happened more than once to me, each time I found the rubber hose clogged with black stuff, which I think was some kind of lining to the pan or something in the AC system. Once the drain is cleared your problem should go away. The drain hose can removed easily from inside. And yes the AC did make some strange noises when this happened, I guess from the condensate backing up into the system
    Good Luck!
    Will S
  • alkanxalkanx Member Posts: 69
    From top of my head (also see my post about shimmy #356), the dealership or Nissan may have torque(d) your steering mechanism to prevent any future complaints about shimmy.

    If you read the service bulletin that deals with steering shimmy, it mentions that by excessive torque on steering rack, it would make the steering hard & would not return to normal -- the problem you are facing. I would suggest that you get acquainted with the bulletin & call Nissan, open a file/case & all the best. (Shawn - Seattle).

    PS: After having to spend 30-Gs, one would not anticipate bad engineering!?
  • lancearmstronglancearmstrong Member Posts: 38
    If you're interested in buying used Rail Riders and kayak mounts, try looking in the bike rack category of the classifieds found at MTBR.com or you can always look on e-Bay.

    The Railriders come with square nuts that fit into the tracks in your factory rack after you remove the factory cross-bars. The Rail Rider towers then bolt into the square nuts and the towers can be slid along the factory tracks.
  • dburr1dburr1 Member Posts: 1
    Here are a few observations:

    Steering - One of the weak points of an otherwise great machine. It is overboosted and over stabilized. There is no on-center feel because of the steering geometry. They could have done a better job here. You can't "fix" it.

    Ride - It is a little bit stiff. Not as bad as a 4-Runner but worse than a Grand Cherokee or Explorer (especially the new one). If you load it up it is a little worse because the rear springs have a low rate to make the unloaded ride better. Some people are putting air springs in there. You can affect ride slightly by changing tires, depending on what you have. You can also change shocks but I would not change springs.

    Brakes - I disagree that somehow it is more difficult to steer when you apply the brakes. In any case, I hate the idea of rear drums in the year 2002. They need to get with the program. Not that rear discs would do much, as most of the braking is up front. But it would help. The rotors are small-ish and they have been known to warp. Brakes is the biggest engineering weakness, IMO, but they do stop the car. As for squeaks, I guarantee you they are no worse than any other SUV (or car) and squeaks come and go in any car. If you don't believe that visit any other forum where "average" people complain. Everyone talks about this, as if they have never driven a car before. You can mitigate the squeaking with the right compounds behind the pads, the right brake pad material, and uncontaminated rotors. But it may still come and go.

    "Spinning" - The Pathy has as good a traction as any car with its weight distribution and tires. Period. You can't somehow defy the laws of physics just because you have a 4WD car. One thing that you probably could have gotten was a limited-slip diff and you'd be happy. I can take any SUV in 2WD (rear wheels) mode and spin it in rain all day long. My Grand Cherokee was terrible. With the limited slip on the Pathy it spins maybe 10% as much.
  • mattman055mattman055 Member Posts: 57
    okay, so the steering isn't just me. mine is usually pretty light. I was in an expedition the other day driving in the city on rough roads, it didn't seem as bad.

    also, I took a nice clear night, went on the highway for about 30 miles, going around 60mph the whole way. it still didn't seem right. maybe its me, maybe its not, but I swear I was bouncing and feeling bumps that did not exist on the road...

    you disagree with my statement on the brakes, which means I have a problem. the moment I apply the breaks, no matter how light or had the steering changes right away.

    I don't have a problem with squeaking per say, except when it starts after only 1,000 miles on a new car...

    I should have gotten a limited slip diff. thats something I have learned for the next time, no big deal, I just have to be a bit more careful with this, (Even though I'm careful and light footed) because of all the torque...
  • nissangirlnissangirl Member Posts: 186
    Did you purchase this vehicle blind-folded?
  • cubster1cubster1 Member Posts: 11
    question...what did you drive before?? If the sports car scene or any car for that matter was the previous vehicle, you're going to feel the bumps more pronounced. drive a sentra around the block and then get in your pathy and you won't like the ride. just the life of a truck. your steering could be a "numb" response in the feedback your geting through your truck not being as responsive as your previous "car". Just some suggestions, I'm not saying your truck is a lemon. Hey, you coulda bought a Dodge? LOL!
  • mattman055mattman055 Member Posts: 57
    my previous was a 99 pathfinder se!!

    i knew that the ride woudln't be good, duh, but it doesn't seem as bad (mainly on highways) as this one... around town etc its fine for the most part besides the steeering that seems to tighen up after 20 minutes of driving, and stay that way until the next time i drive it.

    also the headboard cloth is like cardboard, and the 'carpet' on the floor, and cargo area is like steel wool.

    its not even properly fited, when i try to use my 'dead pedal' to rest my left foot, there is nothing to place it on because its not firmly against the 'metal' where the pedal is. my foot easly falls off, and no, its not wide or abnormally sized.

    was i blind folded, no. i test drove 2 of 02 se's before, however my dealer had to go out of state to get the model i wanted with the color and sunroof.
  • asinger1asinger1 Member Posts: 15
    2000 PF SE with roof rack and moon roof. I keep a canoe on the rack and tie it down using three gromits on both side. Today we had a light rain and the PF was very slightly pitched forward as I was parked waiting for the rain to stop before going fishing, and water started dripping in a little to the left of the junction of the A-pillar and above the plastic where it meets the cloth roof liner. Interestingly, when I backed the PF to more level ground, the leak stopped. Could the tension from having the canoe tied down for long periods of time have broken some kind of seal between the roof rack and the roof of the PF to let the water in? From the postion of the leak and the slight forward slant of the PF, I'm just about certain that the leak didn't come from the winow, the door seal, or the winshield... although with leaks, who knows? Thanks,
    Adam
  • dupersc1dupersc1 Member Posts: 11
    Railrider 1 towers use the existing screw-plates on the 96-99 rack. You unscrew the 2 cross-bars and 2 flat bars and remove them. They come with 2 type of bolts, short ones (to use with the plates that come with the RailRider 1 for different trucks) and longer ones to use with the Pathfinder rack.


    The installation is pretty simple and should take about 1hr or so depends on how good you are at measuring things.


    I have this install on my '99 SE with the Yakima Load Warrior.


    Here's a pic of the rack and the Warrior


    image


    ....

  • danogdanog Member Posts: 318
    That back in early 2000 when we first got our 2001 LE 2wd we were pretty happy with it and started following posts here. I've not been watching for the last, say 6-9 months for various reason but the same old discussions about shimmy, squeaking brakes, warped rotors, harsh rides and a few others are as prominent now as they were when I first started following along. I can't tell sometimes if it is just being over critical or truly bad engineering, mostly a combination.
    I have had every single issue and then some but still feel our Pathy has been a "good" vehicle for the past few years and I can honestly say I'm glad the lease is coming to an end. I'd buy a newly updated Pathfinder only after these "issues" were updated and not a second before.
    The reason I chimed in tonight is only because I'm online looking for information on the new issue that just hit today on the way home, the Service Engine Soon Light. I remember something about either the fuel cap or some sensor. But it goes to show that after you pass your 36K mileage you'd better be prepared in case something major does happen.
    It is a $30,000+ vehicle but that isn't really putting it up on the high end these days. If only Nissan would go through these posts to see what owners are dealing with.
    For those of you that enjoy your Pathy, AND for those who have "issues" I can understand.
    Good luck trying to cool the rear of your Pathy, getting rotors resurfaced(under warranty, even at 35Kmiles), quieting the brakes and solving the shimmy!

    Dano
  • bleufioribleufiori Member Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 99 pathfinder from a Chevy dealer. Immediately after purchase the "Service Engine Soon" light lit up. I returned it to the dealer immediately. They said it was the vacumn switch, but when it was returned to me the problem was not fixed. A friend of mine had the same problem with his Jeep and said a switch should only be reset by the original dealer since each one has specified diagnostic tools. I'm concerned the engine may have a problem. Please help.
  • vsaxenavsaxena Member Posts: 211
    I have 1999.5 LE 4x4.
    I have the check engine light come on a few times and the dealer would replace the Oxygen sensor. Once it came and went away. It has come on again and now we are a month out of the 36 month warranty. I am not sure what to do so I will just neglect it. I read the emission warrany and noticed that it does NOT cover the O2 sensor!

    We have had the permanent shimmy problem. Alignment and wheel balancing makes it go away to some extent but I never had a permanent fix.
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    Hey, coming up on 23,500 miles & I couldn't be more satisfied w/ the reliability of my 2001 PF. But, I've had a few problems I just wanted to send out & see if anyone else has found solutions:
    1) Had new rotors put on at 15,000 or so for warping. Feels like it's time for new ones again. Anybody put any aftermarket (Brembo, etc.) rotors on & had good luck? Also, if they've replaced your rotors did they also replace the pads?
    2) Anybody had a squeaking noise as the steering wheel is turned? This is definitely inside the vehicle, not outside.
    3) Had excessive tire wear on the outside of my front tires around 15,000 miles so I paid (unfortunately because I waited past the 12,000 mile adjustment warranty) for an alignment & they told me it was toe out & this should take care of it. Well, here I am at 23,000 the front tire wear is just as bad or worse. I've rotated my tires myself per the schedule.

    Like I said, these are minor things to deal w/ compared w/ other vehicles... more nuisances. Let me know if you have any comments. Thanks...
  • smithmdsmithmd Member Posts: 167
    I've got a PDF file copy of the TSB for the shimmy. If you (or anyone) would like a copy, e-mail me at smithmdsmith@yahoo.com.

    My shimmy was fixed by the Hunter balance machine.
  • lancearmstronglancearmstrong Member Posts: 38
    My '02 SE has been perfect in every way through the first month of ownership, except for a little squeak coming from the rear when I hit bumps, like pulling out of the driveway, or when I came to a quick stop. On a hunch, I lowered the spare tire and then raised it back up and snugged it up tight. PROBLEM SOLVED! No more squeak. I suspect that either the spare wasn't cranked up tightly enough or wasn't aligned against the bottom of the truck properly.
  • mattman055mattman055 Member Posts: 57
    Lance, what type of squeak did you hear. When I pull out of my driveway I hear some kind of noise as well, but then again any time when I first start to move after I start my 02 PF SE i hear it....

    I will try that even though it sounds as though its coming from the front end...
  • lancearmstronglancearmstrong Member Posts: 38
    I could definitely tell that the squeak was coming from the rear of the vehicle, almost like a squeaky bushing. It was a low-pitched squeak associated with almost any medium bump, but I couldn't make it squeak when I bounced the rear of the PF by hand. Glad I tried that instead of taking to dealer for diagnosis and treatment.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    If you choose to ignore the light, you could be sorry.


    Read this message about my experience after ignoring the check engine light:


    CLICK HERE


    If that link doesn't work, go to the main Pathfinder comment area and in the "MSG#" field, enter 5568 (even though the message # really is 5351 - go figure!)

  • shimdgshimdg Member Posts: 3
    In point 2 you mentioned a squeak definitely from the inside when you turn the wheel. I had a similar experience on my 2001 SE when turning the wheel at very low speed such as pulling in or out from a parking spot. It was definitely from the inside from the lower left corner of the windshield. I thought it was an improperly mounted windshield. Took it in and the tech said it was coming from the outside! This apparently is a known problem since he immediately diagnosed it as bearing strut/ bracket problem on the left side. Seems some were installed improperly and resulted in wear causing the squeak....creak whatever. The part numbers of the components replaced were .....................
    54320-2W100 (insulator), 54329-0W000 (spacer-front), 54322-0W010 (bracket-front),
    54325-5V000 (bearing-st). The noise went away! Your squeak may not have the same cause, but I'd have the dealer check it out. I hope I helped.
  • johnskevjohnskev Member Posts: 98
    I also had a squeaking issue. Mine occured in the rear, but I couldn't tell which side. It sounded like some slight movement from the hatch, the seal maybe. I couldn't fix it let alone find it, so I brought it in. The service rep said that a service bulletin existed for the problem: a poor seal around or near the struts/shox, a small rock was lodged in there somewhere. They removed the rock, put some filler or a better seal on, and solved the problem.
  • texamau1texamau1 Member Posts: 42
    Does any one know how to get the for light to turn on without the head light on? I noticed that some car was able to have the fog light on with the parking light on only. I like to have the fog light on when it dusk/sunrise, when you do not really need the headlights.
  • lancearmstronglancearmstrong Member Posts: 38
    Can't do it on the PF. What you saw was probably an aftermarket fog lamp install. Can probably burn the fog lamps with the high beams on too.
  • johnskevjohnskev Member Posts: 98
    I know that people have mentioned it in this forum before. It required some rewiring or playing with the fuses. I know the search in these forums is hard to do. Maybe someone else knows the post number where the procedure is explained.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    The trick mentioned about wiring the fog lights doesn't let them activate with the parking lights. It lets them activate AT ANY TIME - even if the truck is turned off. Some people who have made this mod have accidentally left the lights on after parking their truck and killed the battery, because the mod makes no "headlight is on" warning beep.

    FYI, in California, I think there's a law that states that the headlights must be turned on one hour before sunset and one hour after sunrise, and it's illegal to drive on the road with the parking lights on if the headlights are not also on... I've been pulled over and warned about this in the past.

    Headlights aren't just to help you see when it's getting dark- they're for other drivers to see YOU as well.

    Just a thought...
  • kzc2kzc2 Member Posts: 14
    I re-wired my fog light to come on with parking light only. I send instruction to 3 people but never received any reply from them. Only thing I can say is that it works fine on my 99.5 LE. Auto head lamp works just fine and high beam doesn't burn fog lamp bulbs. Only time you will be draining battery is physically or manually turn your lights on when engine is not on. Otherwise, if you forget to turn off your light, pathy will automatically turn off your lights when you shut off ignition and open the driver side door.

    Basically concept of re-wiring is same as any other car. The way you wire is look for positive 12 volt wire from fog lamp which is connected to right side head lamp, you need to disconnect that and re-wire to hot wire when your engine is engaged (such as parking light). All this need to be done in Relay box, which located under the hood.

    Let me know if you want the instruction,

    -jc
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    I stand corrected...
    ;)
  • asalimasalim Member Posts: 2
    I have a 97 PF and when I change to 4x4 mode recently I have noticed a grinding/stopping even
    at normal turns. At larger angled turns it just tries to stop. Dealer is saying it is normal. But I did not have this grinding problem before. Also
    when drove a 01 PF it has the grinding issue but
    to a much manageable degree. Anyone has experienced this? Any comments?
  • dupersc1dupersc1 Member Posts: 11
    Because your '97 4wd system is part-time, means that it is not designed to be used on drive pavement. When you engage in 4x4 and turne, the inside wheel will rotate at the same rate as the outside one create a gear bind, hence the grind.

    Do not use 4x4 on drive pavement, especially when turning, you can damage your truck's differentials very easily this way. Hopefully you have already done so.

    Hopefully someone will give a better explaination than I do.

    ....
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Yikes! image As dupersc1 mentioned, you're not supposed to use 4H or 4L on pavement! The grinding you're hearing is actually the tires scrubbing on the pavement as they try to relieve drivetrain binding between the front and rear axles. And you're absolutely right- the truck is nearly impossible to turn (sharply) in 4H or 4L on pavement because the front wheels cannot turn faster than the rear wheels as each tire makes its own arc in the turn.


    So, if you want to know if anyone experienced this? My answer: Hopefully not! But the dealer is right - it is normal when engaging a part-time 4WD system on a high-traction surface.

    May I inquire why you're doing this?

  • asalimasalim Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the comments.

    I rarely use the part time 4x4, only during wet weather or when I am driving in snow. Last time when I engaged the 4x4 in wet weather I noticed
    the grinding was more than what I had experienced before.

    So the increased grinding..is it a sign of some problem in the differential or transfer box or something ? Apprecitae any help.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    If this happens only when turning, but not when driving straight-ahead, your 4WD system is probably operating normally.


    Did you recently get new tires? Bigger tires or different tread design or rubber compound could change the behavior and make the issue either more or less noticeable.


    As for using P/T 4WD in wet weather, don't do it. Wet pavement isn't slippery enough to let the driveline slip. If you're driving on a completely snow covered road, it's OK but not on a mixed snow/wet pavement road. It's best to either keep it in 2WD or switch back and forth as needed. Unless your tires are bald, you'd be surprised how well your truck will drive in 2WD with sensible use of the go-pedal. image

  • texamau1texamau1 Member Posts: 42
    kzc2 , could yo please email me the instruction? for this re-wire the fog light, my email is texamau2@netscape.net Thanks
  • lancearmstronglancearmstrong Member Posts: 38
    Can anyone tell me how to remove the '02 SE titanium (colored) roof rack?
  • deebardacdeebardac Member Posts: 23
    Late input regarding noise from rear. My LE 01 had an occasional squeak/bonk from the right rear area that on the last drive had developed to most of the time. Noise was traced to the RR shock, the nuts were not tight enough and allowed a slight movement. Removal of the shock showed shiny areas where there shouldn't be any.
  • mikelvonmikelvon Member Posts: 4
    My 2002 le, 4500 miles, bottoms out with a normal load. 4 adults in the seats and a picnic basket in the back caused bottoming out on bumps...same thing happened with 4 guys in the seats and 4 golf bags in back. One of the guys owns a 2000 and says this does not happen to him. Any thoughts? Do I need to go the after market air bags or ??
    thanks for any help you guys can give me
    mike
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