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Radio will loose the preset stations-this happens three or four times a year-today when starting the Pathfinder-radio off-the CD player started to make sounds and the radio stations were lost!
This is strange!
Any problems like this?
Suggestions?
Don't let Nissan feed you any BS. Go check a local Infiniti dealer and pretend to be an interested customer. Ask the sales manager how long he's been selling Infinitis, ask the service manager how long he's been fixing Inifitinis, then find out if they know of any restrictions to using Auto-mode (such as don't use it above 60mph). Ask a service tech if there are any differences between the QX4 transfer case and the Pathfinder transfer case. If you want to really dig, get part numbers for the QX4 transfer case, front driveshaft, front differential and compare them with those for the Pathfinder LE...
I picked up my 03 LE a couple of week ago. Very satisfied so far.
Only one minor annoyance: For some odd reasons when I start the car I have very bad radio reception for about 3-5 minutes (None of my other cars have any radio reception problems).
And for some reasons the radio turns clear after a while. But every time the radio turns on after starting the car I get bad reception on all the stations I can get too.
I read in the user manual that the radio automaically switches between the power antenna and the glass-mounted antenna. Maybe one of the two antenna is either not plugged on not functional.....
Anybody out there with a similar problem ??
Thanks
I think it is a problem with my Pathfinder. I always had perfect radio reception with my 4Runner and my Mazda Protege around my house.
It might be bad wiring maybe.
I plan to gather a couple of little issues before paying a visit to the dealer. I don't like going to the dealer everytime I have a little glitch.
So mjohnr99, are you still very satisfied with your purchase decision and your truck ???
Here the Pathfinder is definitely growing on me everyday. It is very comfortable and I like the handling. I also like the heathed leather seats and the auto-climate feature.
I had doubts about the color for a while. I sometime wish I would have chose a black one, black looks meaner, the Pewter looks more classy/soft. It is only when I wash the cars that I tend not to regret the black anymore ;-)
I need advise. I have a 1996 Pathfinder Le, with 110,000 miles. At 95,000 a new transmission was installed. When the car is cold, the shift change into 2nd and 3rd is very harsh. After driving for awhile the gear changes are much smoother.The transmission shop insists it is not a faulty part in the transmission;.Otherwise the suv runs real good. I have never had a car with this problem. I would like to keep this car, but find this very annoying, any suggestions?
No regrets. I know you leased, but I went all out and purchased. Giving me everything I expected and glad I had this option to go to. It drives better than I expected and I know for certain that I would have been disappointed with anything less in HP. Without the supercharger, the 3rd Gen just wasn't enough for my drive style. Past the 1,000 mile mark now and I have gunned it from 0 standstill merging traffic into 60 MPH two-lane parkway and nothing but SMILES. Eats a lot of gas (first SUV) compared to that little CRX deathtrap I was in. As for Black, never really had the dust problems here that I did with black cars back in SoCal. I prefer all the door handles, weather stripping, racks, etc. to all match - hence black. Yes, very nice with black windows. Now, you know why I almost threw-up at the multicolored 4th Gen Sport: main body color, gray cladding, black running boards/tires/windows, and silver "accents" (i.e., "acc-idents") everywhere including that infamous "license plate garnish." BTW, my wife's car is black and I just had to wax it. With all the issues for black cars, researched waxes in a back issue of Consumer Reports and believe it or not, Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell LIQUID (yes, the inexpensive stuff that is everywhere) had the highest overall score for non-scratching/hazing and durability, my two prime concerns. Came out great with no swirl marks. Used electric orbital polisher. Shine was slightly less than other products, but that is less of a concern (just washing your car occasionally does more for the shine on a daily basis!). Like many waxes, do not get on trim. Very pleased. Almost used my old bottle of Meguire's cleaner wax . . . which actually got the worst overall score in all categories of the 30-50 waxes tested. Consumer Reports comes through again . . .
Talking about colors, Pewter is now growing on me. When it is clean it shine a lot and I like the look at night. But black has an edge !!!
I love my truck more and more. I just tested it minutes ago in a semi-wrecked gravel road in 4WD (not Auto) and man.. with the HP and suspenstion it corners like crazy. I like it more and more.
The MPG is much worst than my Runner... by a mile. I know that the truck has to break in but still.... This time of year I mostly do city driving... this does not help. I only have 400 miles on it... two full tanks were required.....
I've seen some more Runners on the lot of my Toyota dealer. The look is growing on me a little. But I do not regret my decision. I'll wait for a couple of iterations before switching back, time enough for them to clean the lines, silver accents, offer color-keyed fenders and remove the stupid cladding.
Thanks for the info on waxes !!! I have to wax the black Protege this weekend.
Cheers
Review of the NHTSA website records for 2000-2002 PF's reveals several incidents of unintended acceration when the brakes were applied, some resulting in accidents. Only a couple identified the cause as unintentional pressure on the gas pedal. No NTSB/NHTSA investigation is indicated. Assuming that only a small portion of the public even knows of the NHTSA, or would report to same; there must be numerous incidents unreported.
The space between the pedals is 2 1/2", which is appropriate, but it still unacceptably dangerous to have the brake travel below gas pedal level. My experience occurred with tennis and boat shoes. Pity the guy or gal with winter muclucs!
I intend to pursue this with the NHTSA, and would appreciate hearing from other owners. Note, that with the engine off, no power brakeing, pedal travel is lessened.
Has anyone had this problem.
Also my tach reads 1200 rpm on idle, does anyone know the correct idle?
I've been reading several messages about PF's shaking at 60, have 90000 miles and no problem, yet anyway. But do hear a pinging noise in front while idle.
With only 150 miles on it, while pulling into a parking space - the vehicle suddenly lurched forward with motor roaring. Luckily I was not near a crowded crosswalk. The service dept. said the computor checked out fine. I asked him to adjust the gas pedal because it accelerates very quickly and without even touching the gas pedal the car starts moving forward as soon as you put it in gear....He said he couldn't adjust it because it is all on computor including the gas pedal. A salesman told me they started putting the gas pedals on computor on the late '02 and '03's PF - it is not on the Xterra.
When I asked the dealer to take the car back - he said I would have to take a $4,000 loss
in addition to the sales tax .
Any suggestions???? I am now afraid to drive the car.
The truck was on park so nothing happened else than the motor reved up. I had the radio relatively loud so I didn't hear anything, I realized something was wrong because people were staring at me.... (The whole thing lasted a couple of seconds only).
The brake pedal IS actually traveling past the gas pedal on my 03. The pedals are relatively close so it is possible to hit both at the same time, mainly with winter boots.
It seems weird.... I don't recall that this ever happened to me before.
Gee if I would have switched from Park to Rear without realizing I was revving up I could have hit something or someone....
Strange.
I can see how this type of acceleration can cause a dangerous condition. I suspect there might be a recall later or TSB later.
However, it also could be somewhat dangerous (especially, when you slam on the brakes and hit the gas pedal by an accident. I guess if you have winter/work boots it could not be that card to accomplish).
Also, does anyone know if PFs have one of those "learning" computers that tune themselves to the driver's habits? Jeep GC have those, I think. Maybe that's the problem? It is too new and "uneducated"?
Thanks for the responses.
When I took delivery on my Pathfinder I noticed that it was more powerful and prompt but I thought this was because of the added HP and Torque.
So I quickly adjusted my driving style a bit and I am more gentle on the accelerator.
That's why I reported that I didn't seem to have the acceleration problem.
So what do you guys think, problem or feature ???
I installed a left foot accelerator pedal shortly after taking delivery of my PF. I brake and accelerate with my left foot. I have plenty of room, about eight inches between my left foot and the gas pedal. I have no problems hinting the gas pedal and brake pedal at the same time. I can also adjust the pedal up and down, and in and out.
One thing to remember if you install a left foot gas pedal, remember to remove it when you take it in for servicing. I forgot to one day and the service manager almost ran it into a wall. They pop on and off real easy. You have to learn to drive and brake with your left foot, It takes about a week or two to get the right feel for it.
I've never driven other (older) PFs before, so I don't know if this is an inherited behavior or new to this year-model.
For now, I'll try to adjust my driving accordingly. Other then this "feature", everything else seems to be great. I'll make sure to post my concerns to Nissan when the survey arrives.
Also, I'll keep monitoring this board for similar complaints.
When I took delivery on my Pathfinder I noticed that it was more powerful and prompt but I thought this was because of the added HP and Torque.
So I quickly adjusted my driving style a bit and I am more gentle on the accelerator.
That's why I reported that I didn't seem to have the acceleration problem.
So what do you guys think, problem or feature ???
If ether of these two wires are out of adjustment the throttle valve may not be closing properly, causing a hair trigger effect when steeping on the accelerator pedal.
Check the accelerator wire first, if too tight, make the adjustment then check and adjust the ASCD wire.
this could be the problem, a throttle valve that is not closing all the way. Hope this helps.
I've got a 1998 Pathinder, Chilkoot Edition with
41,000 kms (26,000 miles).
Last summer the transmission started vibrating/knocking.. so I took it to a dealer and they said my input bearing in the tranny is gone. I took it to my dealer for them to check it out, they replaced the bearings, shafts, and gears all under warranty, but the mechanic messed up when putting the works back together.
I could shift from 3rd to 5th, and from 5th to 4th, but I couldn't get from 3rd to 4th. Taking it to another garage, they said the syncro was put in backwards, so I took it back to my original dealer to fix it.. that whole process took 3 weeks from start to finish.
My question is - did I get a PF with a bad transmission or has this occured with other PF's?
The vehicle's been great, but with the tranny going on me less at such low-ish mileage and my dealer's mistakes, I've lost a little confidence in this otherwise great company.. every little sound I hear that I don't recognize I'm starting to wonder if it's a possible issue...
Thanks,
Albert.
I will mention that I had an aftermarket radio/CD player installed a few months ago, but they used a wire harness so they didn't actually cut into any wires in the dash. They used the factory set-up and just "plugged it into" the harness (I had them show me). There is one set of wires connected to a plug that appears to go nowhere. They looked at the factory radio I had in before that and there is no connection for the plug into that either. I thought I'd mention this in case it was related somehow. The wires are the same colors as the illumination wires for the CD player. But again, they seem to have no destination.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
These days of micro-machining tend to mostly elliminate the problem. It's still a good idea to be gentle for the first few thousand miles, but I doubt there would be measurable benefits.
To my way of thinking, a more important issue is can the driver really operate a "new" vehicle (to him/her) at high speed. Many posts on this discussion list indicate poor understanding of just how these large heavy vehicles handle and stop from very high speeds. For an example, my RX-7 will stop from 60 MPH in 100 ft. without excitement. My 2001 Pathfinder takes at least 130 ft. and the excitement level is too high. Remember, the Pathfinder weights more than two tons (actually about two metric tonnes - 4300 lbs empty).
I'm not going to just bash SUVs as is now the accepted fashon, as they have their uses, and the rollover controversy smacks of too much "I told you so" for my taste. Why don't they start bashing motorhomes? I know for a fact they will rollover long before an SUV!
Thanks
Assuming OD is on, the transmission first unlocks the torque converter (while still in OD) to try to maintain speed. While MPH is relatively constant, RPM will increase by roughly 400RPM.
If the engine still doesn't have enough power to maintain that speed, the transmission will kick out of OD and shift to D with the torque converter unlocked (RPM will increase by another 1000RPM) until it reaches crusing speed again. If the engine has revved enough, it may downshift to OD again and lock up the converter, only to find out there's not enough power, and the process repeats.
And yes, this can occur on interstates, in fact, ESPECIALLY on interstates, where vehicle speeds are higher, wind resistance is higher (which increases the load on the engine), and even slight changes in road inclination/grade can affect the transmission shift points.
If you find the transmission hunting too often, you can disengage OD, which has the benefit of keeping the torque converter locked, which reduces friction and keeps the AT fluid temp lower. Re-engage OD when the engine load is reduced, either by slowing down or by coasting downhill. Strong headwinds, rain, or snow can also increase resistance and make your engine work harder.
You might consider having your engine tuned up to restore lost power, check your tire pressure, and reduce drag by removing anything that you may have installed on the roof.
Are there TSB's out for these issues ?
My hope is that this will guide newer owners to a PSI that works for them. I am not as interested in a debate whether it is better to go LOWER a la the '01 26 PSI tire placard versus HIGHER a la the tire rating / Explorer debacle where low pressures MAY have caused the problem for that vehicle (read prior posts if interested in that). In that regard, here are some observations that hopefully can be agreed upon. Most of our vehicles came shipped with 40 PSI (for shipping reasons) that our dealers neglected to lower. Mine did as well: 39.5 PSI in each. I didn't notice this until 900 miles before lowering. Check yours if you haven't. I have the Bridgestone Duelers on an '03 like many of us do. Max tire pressure for max load on the tire sidewall states 44 PSI. Of course, every car manufacturer has a recommended PSI for their vehicle on that tire. On the '01s, the tire placard (in the glove box) apparently stated 26 PSI. It seems that the '02s, and definitely my '03, now state 30 PSI using basically the same vehicle and tires as the '01s [pretty sure - not definite though]. If you have replaced your stock tires, then the proper PSI may change slightly from the placard's posted PSI depending on the tire speed rating, etc. (again, another debate not worth repeating in its entirety . . . ). One interesting observation is that with the new VDC system on the '03s, there are now low tire pressure sensors which activate at . . . 25 PSI.
Without starting a war, that makes me think that the move to 30 PSI on the placard is closer to a "happy medium." If 25 PSI is considered "low pressure" for a warning on these '03 Duelers, 26 PSI may have been on the lower side and in the wake of Firestone, etc. may have caused Nissan to go to 30 PSI. Not sure. The one person who reported in and had kept his at 26 PSI stated he got only 20,000 miles total (but these were Toyos - another complicating factor). In any event, the focus now is on what others have experienced and documented.
So, my personal experience: for the first 900 at 40 PSI, ride was very stiff but definitely acceptable. Felt speed bumps, etc. as you would predict at that PSI. Since lowering to placard's 30 PSI, smoother ride, but I am used to I think a more rigid feel - maybe from past experience of keeping slightly higher pressures in tires to improve wear. Since this is an SUV, I am not as concerned about improving tire wear to the extent I compromise handling and grip [to prevent, e.g., loss of control and the associated roll-overs]. At the same time, I want to take heed of the tire heating/blow-out issues from too low PSIs, as well as past experience that usually have a little more PSI in heavier engine-end front tires than rear tires (in unloaded vehicle). Rolling up all this into my little mix, this leaves me coming out on increasing the PSI to 33 in the front tires and 32 in the rear tires. 30 PSI feels a little soft for me right now and I think I can get a little more mileage out of the tires at 33/32 without losing much handling/grip. With the tire rated for 44 PSI, that won't be a problem; and as I load weight, the difference may become negligible. I am reluctant to do anything under 30 PSI given the placard and 25 PSI low pressure sensors, but curious what current owners have experienced over a couple years of ownership. Has anyone had their Duelers at or near 33/32 for the last couple years and what sort of mileage / handling have you encountered? Thanks in advance!
Maybe that is the problem?
mjohnr99: I also put Thule bike rack on my 2000 LE. Because of excessive wind noise, I installed wind deflector/blocker on the thule and noise has been very minized. I'd feel like there is no wind noise. One thing I'm sure is there is no high pitch "hiss" sound. To put a wind deflector, you need to put it just behind sunroof opening and you need to cut bike stand about an 1-1/2" to open the rear hatch. Otherwise if you have rear wind deflector, rear hatch will touch the bike stand about 2/3rd open.