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Nissan Pathfinder Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tea60tea60 Member Posts: 1
    Help-
    Radio will loose the preset stations-this happens three or four times a year-today when starting the Pathfinder-radio off-the CD player started to make sounds and the radio stations were lost!
    This is strange!
    Any problems like this?
    Suggestions?
  • rowjimeerowjimee Member Posts: 8
    mjohnr99: yeah, the effing techician at Autotech Nissan in Manhattan circled in my user manual all of the restrictions in the 4HI mode! Why? because the manual says nothing about restrictions in Auto. That's the original reason I called Nissan's customer support line, because I thought the dealership techs were b.s.-ing me. After reading all of your guys' doubts, I'm going to make a few more calls. To be honest, it didn't seem right what they were telling me. Sounded to me like the dealership technician just didn't want to deal with the problem since the "noise" didn't happen in 2wd. Thanks for commenting, all, I'll let you know.
  • rowjimeerowjimee Member Posts: 8
    I contacted Nissan's corporate headquarters (1800-647-7261) for Nissan's official stance on my over-60 auto-mode question. The customer service rep, Adam, at extension 3865, called a senior Nissan technician at their corporate hq to ask the question I posed: "Are there any speed restrictions in the Auto setting of the Pathfinder's LE 4x4 All-Mode 4WD® system?" The answer was yes, Nissan does not recommend operating the vehicle in the Auto setting over speeds of 60mph. I'm not a technical guy, so I can't explain why, but can somebody else call Adam ask the same question so I'm not the only one? The other thing to do is to call your Nissan dealership and ask them to look in their computer at file #3943024 (the file they created for me and my questions). Ask them to read you my complaints and my questions. There at the bottom it should say what the senior technician told the customer service rep. My sales guy at Autotech Nissan in Manhattan has the whole place worked up because what I have learned through both their dealership service dept. and corporate headquarters contradicts the training that the sales dept. received re: the LE 4x4 All-Mode 4WD®. Wouldn't you like to here for yourselves what Nissan is saying about this?
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    That's such BS. I've left my 2001 PF LE in Auto since the day I brought it home from the dealership & never had a problem or fluttering, including at speeds up to 106mph. If the techs felt it shouldn't be used over 60mph why wasn't it put anywhere in the manual. Oh well, I'll continue to leave mine in auto, as the manual doesn't tell me any different.
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    Has anyone had a problem with their steering wheel squeaking as they turn it. My 2001 PF LE just started doing it one day. The dealership replaced the clock spring & some type of spiral cable wire assembly & it still does it (despite the fact the acted like it was fixed). Just looking for some suggestions before I take it back in.
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    All the talk about "don't exceed 60mph in auto-mode" sounds like hogwash. The auto-mode system has been used in Infiniti QX4's since 1998!! Nissan just took the exact same system and put it in the Pathfinder, and I've never heard of anyone complaining about the problems that have been discussed about using Auto-mode above 60mph until now.

    Don't let Nissan feed you any BS. Go check a local Infiniti dealer and pretend to be an interested customer. Ask the sales manager how long he's been selling Infinitis, ask the service manager how long he's been fixing Inifitinis, then find out if they know of any restrictions to using Auto-mode (such as don't use it above 60mph). Ask a service tech if there are any differences between the QX4 transfer case and the Pathfinder transfer case. If you want to really dig, get part numbers for the QX4 transfer case, front driveshaft, front differential and compare them with those for the Pathfinder LE...
  • pathstarpathstar Member Posts: 201
    Does the PF get poorer fuel economy in auto mode? Yes. Is is very noticable? Yes. It was enough to make me only use auto when the roads are icy. The fuel economy and the lurching. I don't usually use auto mode on wet pavement, though I admit the PF will spin up the rear tires once in a while when accelerating from a stop. Auto mode does put a stop to that.
  • kbehnkekbehnke Member Posts: 60
    The steering wheel in my '01 SE started squeaking a few days ago. I might be imagining it, but I think my '98 had the same problem. I'll look through my old maintenance records to see if my memory serves me correct, and what they did to fix it.
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    I would have to disagree that the fuel economy difference in 2wd or Auto mode is noticable. I guess it depends on your version of noticable, but there just is not enough going on mechanically when the vehicle is in Auto mode to give you signifigantly worse fuel economy.
  • world_travelerworld_traveler Member Posts: 153
    Hello all,

    I picked up my 03 LE a couple of week ago. Very satisfied so far.

    Only one minor annoyance: For some odd reasons when I start the car I have very bad radio reception for about 3-5 minutes (None of my other cars have any radio reception problems).

    And for some reasons the radio turns clear after a while. But every time the radio turns on after starting the car I get bad reception on all the stations I can get too.

    I read in the user manual that the radio automaically switches between the power antenna and the glass-mounted antenna. Maybe one of the two antenna is either not plugged on not functional.....

    Anybody out there with a similar problem ??

    Thanks
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Member Posts: 193
    WT, my new '03 is always set to the radio on and whenever I start up all is well with reception. I'll doublecheck tomorrow for ya. Could it be physics (e.g., location, humidity, etc.)? - have you compared to another vehicle started at same time/place? If no difference, then definitely check out because mine comes on like any normal radio . . . right at start-up. Good Luck. Keep us posted.
  • world_travelerworld_traveler Member Posts: 153
    Thanks mjohnr99,

    I think it is a problem with my Pathfinder. I always had perfect radio reception with my 4Runner and my Mazda Protege around my house.

    It might be bad wiring maybe.

    I plan to gather a couple of little issues before paying a visit to the dealer. I don't like going to the dealer everytime I have a little glitch.

    So mjohnr99, are you still very satisfied with your purchase decision and your truck ???

    Here the Pathfinder is definitely growing on me everyday. It is very comfortable and I like the handling. I also like the heathed leather seats and the auto-climate feature.

    I had doubts about the color for a while. I sometime wish I would have chose a black one, black looks meaner, the Pewter looks more classy/soft. It is only when I wash the cars that I tend not to regret the black anymore ;-)
  • floridasearayfloridasearay Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I need advise. I have a 1996 Pathfinder Le, with 110,000 miles. At 95,000 a new transmission was installed. When the car is cold, the shift change into 2nd and 3rd is very harsh. After driving for awhile the gear changes are much smoother.The transmission shop insists it is not a faulty part in the transmission;.Otherwise the suv runs real good. I have never had a car with this problem. I would like to keep this car, but find this very annoying, any suggestions?
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Member Posts: 193
    WT, check the antenna to make sure not loose. It is removable for car washes. When I took delivery, it was loose. I hand tightened and it came loose again. Took a metric combination wrench and tightened 1/8th turn - no problem now. Just a thought I had. My radio reception is perfect upon turning key - have it checked out. Not a big deal. Look what the H2s are going through over on that board and the 4th Gen Run. will have its share of quirks as well.

    No regrets. I know you leased, but I went all out and purchased. Giving me everything I expected and glad I had this option to go to. It drives better than I expected and I know for certain that I would have been disappointed with anything less in HP. Without the supercharger, the 3rd Gen just wasn't enough for my drive style. Past the 1,000 mile mark now and I have gunned it from 0 standstill merging traffic into 60 MPH two-lane parkway and nothing but SMILES. Eats a lot of gas (first SUV) compared to that little CRX deathtrap I was in. As for Black, never really had the dust problems here that I did with black cars back in SoCal. I prefer all the door handles, weather stripping, racks, etc. to all match - hence black. Yes, very nice with black windows. Now, you know why I almost threw-up at the multicolored 4th Gen Sport: main body color, gray cladding, black running boards/tires/windows, and silver "accents" (i.e., "acc-idents") everywhere including that infamous "license plate garnish." BTW, my wife's car is black and I just had to wax it. With all the issues for black cars, researched waxes in a back issue of Consumer Reports and believe it or not, Turtle Wax Super Hard Shell LIQUID (yes, the inexpensive stuff that is everywhere) had the highest overall score for non-scratching/hazing and durability, my two prime concerns. Came out great with no swirl marks. Used electric orbital polisher. Shine was slightly less than other products, but that is less of a concern (just washing your car occasionally does more for the shine on a daily basis!). Like many waxes, do not get on trim. Very pleased. Almost used my old bottle of Meguire's cleaner wax . . . which actually got the worst overall score in all categories of the 30-50 waxes tested. Consumer Reports comes through again . . .
  • world_travelerworld_traveler Member Posts: 153
    Mjohnr99, Thanks for checking !!!! I'll check the antenna.

    Talking about colors, Pewter is now growing on me. When it is clean it shine a lot and I like the look at night. But black has an edge !!!

    I love my truck more and more. I just tested it minutes ago in a semi-wrecked gravel road in 4WD (not Auto) and man.. with the HP and suspenstion it corners like crazy. I like it more and more.

    The MPG is much worst than my Runner... by a mile. I know that the truck has to break in but still.... This time of year I mostly do city driving... this does not help. I only have 400 miles on it... two full tanks were required.....

    I've seen some more Runners on the lot of my Toyota dealer. The look is growing on me a little. But I do not regret my decision. I'll wait for a couple of iterations before switching back, time enough for them to clean the lines, silver accents, offer color-keyed fenders and remove the stupid cladding.

    Thanks for the info on waxes !!! I have to wax the black Protege this weekend.

    Cheers
  • larrylee2larrylee2 Member Posts: 3
    I bought my '02 PF LE in CT end of July and drove it home to Pensacola without incident- comfortable drive with full load. On several occasions when coming to full stop, usually from a slow speed such as in my garage, the edge of my foot overlapped the gas pedal slightly causing the engine to accelerate with some forward lurch of the vehicle. Examination reveals that with engine running and as little pressure as two fingers depressing the brake pedal, the pedal travels an inch below the gas pedal. Moderate foot pressure, with the power assist, will bottom the pedal on the floor stop. The dealer here adjusted the rear brakes at 2300 miles, which changed nothing. The svc. mgr. demonstrated that another new PF does the same, stating that the condition is normal. I sent photos illustrating the condition to Nissan, who finally stated that, "the vehicle's brake and gas pedal positions are within manufacture specifications."

    Review of the NHTSA website records for 2000-2002 PF's reveals several incidents of unintended acceration when the brakes were applied, some resulting in accidents. Only a couple identified the cause as unintentional pressure on the gas pedal. No NTSB/NHTSA investigation is indicated. Assuming that only a small portion of the public even knows of the NHTSA, or would report to same; there must be numerous incidents unreported.
    The space between the pedals is 2 1/2", which is appropriate, but it still unacceptably dangerous to have the brake travel below gas pedal level. My experience occurred with tennis and boat shoes. Pity the guy or gal with winter muclucs!
    I intend to pursue this with the NHTSA, and would appreciate hearing from other owners. Note, that with the engine off, no power brakeing, pedal travel is lessened.
  • elmitolselmitols Member Posts: 1
    Have a 95 PF, and at times the tachometer and speedometer do not respond. After some time of driving they will engage.
    Has anyone had this problem.
    Also my tach reads 1200 rpm on idle, does anyone know the correct idle?
    I've been reading several messages about PF's shaking at 60, have 90000 miles and no problem, yet anyway. But do hear a pinging noise in front while idle.
  • romeo7romeo7 Member Posts: 1
    Attention message #468

    With only 150 miles on it, while pulling into a parking space - the vehicle suddenly lurched forward with motor roaring. Luckily I was not near a crowded crosswalk. The service dept. said the computor checked out fine. I asked him to adjust the gas pedal because it accelerates very quickly and without even touching the gas pedal the car starts moving forward as soon as you put it in gear....He said he couldn't adjust it because it is all on computor including the gas pedal. A salesman told me they started putting the gas pedals on computor on the late '02 and '03's PF - it is not on the Xterra.

    When I asked the dealer to take the car back - he said I would have to take a $4,000 loss
    in addition to the sales tax .

    Any suggestions???? I am now afraid to drive the car.
  • sailor16sailor16 Member Posts: 34
    Check the brake pedal overtravel thread.You may have hit the gas at the same time.
  • world_travelerworld_traveler Member Posts: 153
    This happened to me too last week.I pressed the gas pedal while pressing the brake pedal. I was about to change gears and was busy putting my cellular away.

    The truck was on park so nothing happened else than the motor reved up. I had the radio relatively loud so I didn't hear anything, I realized something was wrong because people were staring at me.... (The whole thing lasted a couple of seconds only).

    The brake pedal IS actually traveling past the gas pedal on my 03. The pedals are relatively close so it is possible to hit both at the same time, mainly with winter boots.

    It seems weird.... I don't recall that this ever happened to me before.

    Gee if I would have switched from Park to Rear without realizing I was revving up I could have hit something or someone....

    Strange.
  • mk74mk74 Member Posts: 7
    I have a '03 LE with approx 200 miles on it. It also accelerates rather unexpectedly fast. All it takes is a very slight pressure on the gas pedal, and this thing takes off as a bet out of hell. This is especially evident when the engine is cold but not necessary then. I also have a Toyota 4 Runner which accelerates and switches gears much smother.

    I can see how this type of acceleration can cause a dangerous condition. I suspect there might be a recall later or TSB later.
  • world_travelerworld_traveler Member Posts: 153
    I don't seem to have the acceleration problem. Ok it is not as smooth as the 4Runner but it is not taking off that wildly...
  • sailor16sailor16 Member Posts: 34
    I've only had my '03 for about 3 weeks. I'm still finding the gas pedal a bit "touchy" compared to the Grand Cherokee I had before but I'm getting used to it now .I do notice that when someone drives my PF for the first time they tend to jump it ahead on the first few starts. Several have commented on how sensitive the gas is.
  • mk74mk74 Member Posts: 7
    I agree, with sailor16 that for the most people "touchy" gas pedal is something to get used to.

    However, it also could be somewhat dangerous (especially, when you slam on the brakes and hit the gas pedal by an accident. I guess if you have winter/work boots it could not be that card to accomplish).

    Also, does anyone know if PFs have one of those "learning" computers that tune themselves to the driver's habits? Jeep GC have those, I think. Maybe that's the problem? It is too new and "uneducated"?

    Thanks for the responses.
  • world_travelerworld_traveler Member Posts: 153
    To be honest I thought that was a feature more than a bug. While my 4Runner was smoother it was also less powerful.

    When I took delivery on my Pathfinder I noticed that it was more powerful and prompt but I thought this was because of the added HP and Torque.

    So I quickly adjusted my driving style a bit and I am more gentle on the accelerator.

    That's why I reported that I didn't seem to have the acceleration problem.

    So what do you guys think, problem or feature ???
  • danpf1danpf1 Member Posts: 89
    From the very first day I didn't have a problem with the gas pedal or brake pedal, but I do think that the rear brakes might not be adjusting properly, causing a low brake pedal to develop after a period of time.

    I installed a left foot accelerator pedal shortly after taking delivery of my PF. I brake and accelerate with my left foot. I have plenty of room, about eight inches between my left foot and the gas pedal. I have no problems hinting the gas pedal and brake pedal at the same time. I can also adjust the pedal up and down, and in and out.

    One thing to remember if you install a left foot gas pedal, remember to remove it when you take it in for servicing. I forgot to one day and the service manager almost ran it into a wall. They pop on and off real easy. You have to learn to drive and brake with your left foot, It takes about a week or two to get the right feel for it.
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Member Posts: 193
    Ok, as you know, I was reading all these past posts even before I picked up my '03 LE a month or so ago. I had read all the back posts on all these concerns and I think Day 1, I was measuring everything. Yes, distance between acclerator and brake pedals is as reported; yes, brake pedal goes below height of accelerator; yes, the vehicle springs to life when you touch that gas. But to tell you the truth, I honestly haven't had in my mind a problem yet (doesn't mean I won't though). That Day 1, I even went to an empty lot and did all the things reported - yes, if I purposely jam my foot down in between the two I certainly can get the brake engaging and then feel the accelerator start to take hold and "want" to lurch forward. Have not compared to see if I can do this in other cars as well. But, I had forgotten all about this until now, and as I normally drive I haven't accidentally done what I purposely did that day. And I have had TWO emergency braking maneuvers where I had to slam the brakes on to avoid rear-ending bumper to bumper nightmare merging traffic in DC traffic circles. Normally, I just rock on my heal from gas to brake I guess, and so far so good. I have US 9.5 D width shoes. No problem in dress shoes or the weekedn Timberland saw mill boots. As for driving in snow boots, not as much an issue here, but I don't ever do it in anything thick like my Sorels when I go boardin' in the mountains. [I did once in a Lincoln Towncar no less and had all the double-pedal problems in the world - very unsafe in any vehicle.] As for the acceleration, maybe I just don't know enough of what SUVs on average are like. This is my first one and only test drives of other SUVs. So far, I never thought of it as touchy per se, but more as WOW, I love that feel of popping right out and ahead. [Maybe it's just me and my lead foot . . . ] Hard to compare to my previous car which was a manual. And my wife's automatic Civic EX definitely does not have the POP this LE has. To me, a feature. If all this has been around more-or-less unchanged since the '01s, I can't imagine a recall now in the last year. But if they did, I would certainly support any effort to fix and/or improve a design to make it more safer - no problem there at all.
  • mk74mk74 Member Posts: 7
    I bet Nissan considers it a feature. But if enough people get in the accidents because of this "feature", it will become a bug rather quickly.

    I've never driven other (older) PFs before, so I don't know if this is an inherited behavior or new to this year-model.

    For now, I'll try to adjust my driving accordingly. Other then this "feature", everything else seems to be great. I'll make sure to post my concerns to Nissan when the survey arrives.

    Also, I'll keep monitoring this board for similar complaints.
  • world_travelerworld_traveler Member Posts: 153
    To be honest I thought that was a feature more than a bug. While my 4Runner was smoother it was also less powerful.

    When I took delivery on my Pathfinder I noticed that it was more powerful and prompt but I thought this was because of the added HP and Torque.

    So I quickly adjusted my driving style a bit and I am more gentle on the accelerator.

    That's why I reported that I didn't seem to have the acceleration problem.

    So what do you guys think, problem or feature ???
  • sailor16sailor16 Member Posts: 34
    I'd have to say it's a feature.Most people who've driven my PF say something like "Wow! this thing sure has lots of snap!"
  • onboost91onboost91 Member Posts: 86
    Yeah it definately has some "snap" if you dont ease that accelerator down. It took me a little while to get used to how sensitive it is.
  • larrylee2larrylee2 Member Posts: 3
    Since initiating the "Low Brake" thread I have read all your posts with interest. My PF was mfg'd in Nov. '01, and may not have the computer controlled throttle feature discussed. My experiences with inadvertantly depressing the gas pedal while braking all occurred while creeping to a stop in the garage, using the brake to control the roll from just idle rpm in drive. Yes, I probably pivoted my foot from gas to brake without moving my heal off the floor. I suspect most people do the same, at least when moving slow. Regardless of the foot process, I think any vehicle which exhibits brake travel below the level of the gas pedal is a danger. Many variety of situations from emergency braking to winter boots to lack of deliberate gas pedal avoidance can result in unintentional acceleration while braking. Nissan's response that, "the pedal positions are within specifications," pointedly avoids addressing the brake pedal TRAVEL below the gas pedal.
  • danpf1danpf1 Member Posts: 89
    Check the "accelerator control wire" and the "automatic speed control device" for ASCD wire adjustment, at the throttle drum.

    If ether of these two wires are out of adjustment the throttle valve may not be closing properly, causing a hair trigger effect when steeping on the accelerator pedal.

    Check the accelerator wire first, if too tight, make the adjustment then check and adjust the ASCD wire.

    this could be the problem, a throttle valve that is not closing all the way. Hope this helps.
  • danpf1danpf1 Member Posts: 89
  • danpf1danpf1 Member Posts: 89
    In my last posting I forgot to mention that you should also check the return spring on the gas pedal and the return springs on the throttle valve drum. If any of these springs are not working right, it could cause the truck to creep a little when you take your foot off the gas pedal.
  • albertlalbertl Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I've got a 1998 Pathinder, Chilkoot Edition with
    41,000 kms (26,000 miles).

    Last summer the transmission started vibrating/knocking.. so I took it to a dealer and they said my input bearing in the tranny is gone. I took it to my dealer for them to check it out, they replaced the bearings, shafts, and gears all under warranty, but the mechanic messed up when putting the works back together.

    I could shift from 3rd to 5th, and from 5th to 4th, but I couldn't get from 3rd to 4th. Taking it to another garage, they said the syncro was put in backwards, so I took it back to my original dealer to fix it.. that whole process took 3 weeks from start to finish.

    My question is - did I get a PF with a bad transmission or has this occured with other PF's?

    The vehicle's been great, but with the tranny going on me less at such low-ish mileage and my dealer's mistakes, I've lost a little confidence in this otherwise great company.. every little sound I hear that I don't recognize I'm starting to wonder if it's a possible issue...

    Thanks,
    Albert.
  • nissangirlnissangirl Member Posts: 186
    I was told that a brand new vehicle needs time to "break-in" before traveling long distances at high speeds. Like waiting until you have approx. 1,000 miles on it, to take a long road trip. Any opinions on this?
  • samalarkysamalarky Member Posts: 4
    Hi. Recently the climate control panel on my dashboard only lights up once in a great while. It is the only panel affected. My dealership will charge me over $80 just to look inside the dash. Does anyone know what this might be caused by, something I can take care of myself perhaps?

    I will mention that I had an aftermarket radio/CD player installed a few months ago, but they used a wire harness so they didn't actually cut into any wires in the dash. They used the factory set-up and just "plugged it into" the harness (I had them show me). There is one set of wires connected to a plug that appears to go nowhere. They looked at the factory radio I had in before that and there is no connection for the plug into that either. I thought I'd mention this in case it was related somehow. The wires are the same colors as the illumination wires for the CD player. But again, they seem to have no destination.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks.
  • pathstarpathstar Member Posts: 201
    The idea is that when an engine is breaking in (final part to part machining), extra heat is generated. At lower RPMs/speeds this extra heat is easily dealt with by the cooling systems (oil and coolant). At higher RPMs/speeds the extra heat can cause problems such as burned/coked oil deposits and even changes in metal hardness.

    These days of micro-machining tend to mostly elliminate the problem. It's still a good idea to be gentle for the first few thousand miles, but I doubt there would be measurable benefits.

    To my way of thinking, a more important issue is can the driver really operate a "new" vehicle (to him/her) at high speed. Many posts on this discussion list indicate poor understanding of just how these large heavy vehicles handle and stop from very high speeds. For an example, my RX-7 will stop from 60 MPH in 100 ft. without excitement. My 2001 Pathfinder takes at least 130 ft. and the excitement level is too high. Remember, the Pathfinder weights more than two tons (actually about two metric tonnes - 4300 lbs empty).

    I'm not going to just bash SUVs as is now the accepted fashon, as they have their uses, and the rollover controversy smacks of too much "I told you so" for my taste. Why don't they start bashing motorhomes? I know for a fact they will rollover long before an SUV!
  • bob10sbob10s Member Posts: 1
    Am having problems with automatic trans -- rough shifting from 1st to 2d and hunting back and forth in higher gears. Some times will shift out of overdrive on interstate. Trans has been serviced, sensor changed, but problem still exists. Thoughts?
    Thanks
  • xplorx4xplorx4 Member Posts: 621
    Sounds kind of normal to me. Transmission hunting occurs when vehicle speed and engine load interact. At certain speeds the engine doesn't have enough power to maintain the same cruising speed, so the transmission has to downshift.

    Assuming OD is on, the transmission first unlocks the torque converter (while still in OD) to try to maintain speed. While MPH is relatively constant, RPM will increase by roughly 400RPM.

    If the engine still doesn't have enough power to maintain that speed, the transmission will kick out of OD and shift to D with the torque converter unlocked (RPM will increase by another 1000RPM) until it reaches crusing speed again. If the engine has revved enough, it may downshift to OD again and lock up the converter, only to find out there's not enough power, and the process repeats.

    And yes, this can occur on interstates, in fact, ESPECIALLY on interstates, where vehicle speeds are higher, wind resistance is higher (which increases the load on the engine), and even slight changes in road inclination/grade can affect the transmission shift points.

    If you find the transmission hunting too often, you can disengage OD, which has the benefit of keeping the torque converter locked, which reduces friction and keeps the AT fluid temp lower. Re-engage OD when the engine load is reduced, either by slowing down or by coasting downhill. Strong headwinds, rain, or snow can also increase resistance and make your engine work harder.

    You might consider having your engine tuned up to restore lost power, check your tire pressure, and reduce drag by removing anything that you may have installed on the roof.
  • stevems6stevems6 Member Posts: 1
    My 96 Pathfinder w/56k is making a noise which alternates between a buzz and chime/ringing sound while at idle, once you move, it goes away. One of the rear door speakers is making a rattle noise, especially when the base is up, are they easy to change, and lastly the CD player seems to have a will of it's own...does anyone have any insight into these problems ?
    Are there TSB's out for these issues ?
  • mediaguymediaguy Member Posts: 11
    I just bought a 2003 PF and they told me there is no break in period for these engines. You can drive it now like it had 20k miles on it. Is that true?
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Member Posts: 193
    I can tell you this: what your dealer told you is entirely inconsistent with the 2003 Nissan Pathfinder owner's manual which does call for a 1,000 mile break-in period. I do not have it with me but you will find the page if you read carefully. It advises against constant speeds, quick full-throttle starts, etc. - but I don't believe it advises against going above any particular top speed. [However, from my experience, other factors not mentioned in the owner's manual (like new tires, etc.) should rule in favor of NOT driving at high speeds initially (e.g., I think new radial tires call for 55 MPH or less for the first couple hundred miles).] Although I agree with the prior post about these things making only a marginal difference in today's engines, I played it safe as I had nothing to really lose by driving that way for 1,000 miles (a portion of which was on a road trip varying between 50 and 70 MPH). In this regard, although the manual states that you don't need to change your initial oil until the initial applicable mileage mark (e.g., 3750 miles I think), I also just had my oil and filter changed at 1700 miles to play it safe. Although I am 95% sure it was a waste of money to do so in today's newer engines (where the break-in really doesn't cause too many micro-bits of metal in your oil), I decided to waste the $20 just for the irrational peace of mind, so to speak.
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Member Posts: 193
    Tire Pressure. Yes, I had to mention it. But, I hope this adds a new twist to prior discussions that have maybe overkilled the subject. Anyone responding should take the time to read through the very old posts both here and on the main board first. The twist: I am interested in learning about what has happened to you 01' owners who opted for tire pressures closer to 26 PSI versus those closer to 40 PSI. What mileage did you get out of the set of tires? Any performance / handling mishaps as a result of a certain PSI? Etc., etc. It seemed some we're sticking closer to 26 PSI per the placard and others closer to 35 PSI per their own preference and the tires' high PSI rating.

    My hope is that this will guide newer owners to a PSI that works for them. I am not as interested in a debate whether it is better to go LOWER a la the '01 26 PSI tire placard versus HIGHER a la the tire rating / Explorer debacle where low pressures MAY have caused the problem for that vehicle (read prior posts if interested in that). In that regard, here are some observations that hopefully can be agreed upon. Most of our vehicles came shipped with 40 PSI (for shipping reasons) that our dealers neglected to lower. Mine did as well: 39.5 PSI in each. I didn't notice this until 900 miles before lowering. Check yours if you haven't. I have the Bridgestone Duelers on an '03 like many of us do. Max tire pressure for max load on the tire sidewall states 44 PSI. Of course, every car manufacturer has a recommended PSI for their vehicle on that tire. On the '01s, the tire placard (in the glove box) apparently stated 26 PSI. It seems that the '02s, and definitely my '03, now state 30 PSI using basically the same vehicle and tires as the '01s [pretty sure - not definite though]. If you have replaced your stock tires, then the proper PSI may change slightly from the placard's posted PSI depending on the tire speed rating, etc. (again, another debate not worth repeating in its entirety . . . ). One interesting observation is that with the new VDC system on the '03s, there are now low tire pressure sensors which activate at . . . 25 PSI.

    Without starting a war, that makes me think that the move to 30 PSI on the placard is closer to a "happy medium." If 25 PSI is considered "low pressure" for a warning on these '03 Duelers, 26 PSI may have been on the lower side and in the wake of Firestone, etc. may have caused Nissan to go to 30 PSI. Not sure. The one person who reported in and had kept his at 26 PSI stated he got only 20,000 miles total (but these were Toyos - another complicating factor). In any event, the focus now is on what others have experienced and documented.

    So, my personal experience: for the first 900 at 40 PSI, ride was very stiff but definitely acceptable. Felt speed bumps, etc. as you would predict at that PSI. Since lowering to placard's 30 PSI, smoother ride, but I am used to I think a more rigid feel - maybe from past experience of keeping slightly higher pressures in tires to improve wear. Since this is an SUV, I am not as concerned about improving tire wear to the extent I compromise handling and grip [to prevent, e.g., loss of control and the associated roll-overs]. At the same time, I want to take heed of the tire heating/blow-out issues from too low PSIs, as well as past experience that usually have a little more PSI in heavier engine-end front tires than rear tires (in unloaded vehicle). Rolling up all this into my little mix, this leaves me coming out on increasing the PSI to 33 in the front tires and 32 in the rear tires. 30 PSI feels a little soft for me right now and I think I can get a little more mileage out of the tires at 33/32 without losing much handling/grip. With the tire rated for 44 PSI, that won't be a problem; and as I load weight, the difference may become negligible. I am reluctant to do anything under 30 PSI given the placard and 25 PSI low pressure sensors, but curious what current owners have experienced over a couple years of ownership. Has anyone had their Duelers at or near 33/32 for the last couple years and what sort of mileage / handling have you encountered? Thanks in advance!
  • dphankedphanke Member Posts: 1
    We have had our 03 LE for about 3 weeks. There is a whistle in the front cross member of the roof rack. The noise is not always there and appears to happen in certain wind conditions between about 35 - 55 MPH. The dealer is suggesting changing the rack out for the SE model, but I'm not real comfortable with this. Anyone else having this problem?
  • mattman055mattman055 Member Posts: 57
    I went from an SE rack to an LE rack on my 02 SE. I don't have any wind noise issues on it. Do you have a sunroof deflector?

    Maybe that is the problem?
  • mjohnr99mjohnr99 Member Posts: 193
    I have an '03 LE and can confirm that the wind noise is normal. At a certain speed, you will always seem to hit some "sweet spot" where you get that higher pitch. At least the LE's cross members are aerodynamic. Believe me, it is far less noise than you would experience with some aftermarket racks. I am a Thule fan and after a couple weeks replaced my factory racks for the Thule set-up so that I can use my Thule Combi box and accessories from my last vehicle. Talk about wind noise! But, it's the sacrifice I wanted to make because the new rack is so solid and useful. I also like the squarish appearance - makes things boxier, truckier. So, I don't think you HAVE to replace with the SE style unless you really want it for personal preference reasons. Another decent rack is the Yakima round tube rack/bars combo (I think they are plastic) . . . but they may be no more quiet than the existing LE's. Best bet is a fairing (SE I think has an integrated one) if you like the looks of those. As for me, I will eventually add a sunroof deflector once Nissan comes out with its new '03 product to eliminate the plastic problems they had with the previous ones. Otherwise, I will just live with it I guess . . .
  • smokey75smokey75 Member Posts: 434
    I have kept my 2001 PF LE tires (Bridgestone Duelers) at 26psi since day one. I check it montly & adjust & I have also rotated my tires every 7500 miles. I am at about 29,000 miles right now & the tread is at about 5 or 6/32 so I will probably replace them soon. While this seems like short tire life it also seems consistent with other piece of crap tires I've used on other vehicles. If you use a decent tire like Michelin's you will see a longer tire life. At the first tire rotation I noticed excessive tire wear on the outer edges of the front tires & brought it in to the dealer for an alignment. They said it had too much toe in & adjusted this. It seems to be better but I still have outer edge wear. I think this is due more to my driving habits though (fast corners, etc.) Anyway, I would like to know what's up with Nissan as far as changing the recommended pressure despite the fact it's the same vehicle from year to year. Maybe a call to corporate could clear this up.
  • kzc2kzc2 Member Posts: 14
    Because of wind noise, many people removed their roof rack completly. Noise is always there, like mjohnr99 said, there are always some "sweet spot".

    mjohnr99: I also put Thule bike rack on my 2000 LE. Because of excessive wind noise, I installed wind deflector/blocker on the thule and noise has been very minized. I'd feel like there is no wind noise. One thing I'm sure is there is no high pitch "hiss" sound. To put a wind deflector, you need to put it just behind sunroof opening and you need to cut bike stand about an 1-1/2" to open the rear hatch. Otherwise if you have rear wind deflector, rear hatch will touch the bike stand about 2/3rd open.
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